Module 4 : Painting and

Wallpapering

Objectives
How to prepare to paint
How to prime a surface for painting
How to correctly apply paint, including effects
How to cut wallpaper
How to apply wallpaper

4.1 Introduction
The previous module taught you all you need
to know about how to prepare to paint, and
now, in this module, you can take that
knowledge and learn to turn it into action.

In addition, this module will focus on the basics of

wallpapering and tiling. As you work through this fourth
module, try to keep the information from the previous modules
in mind.

Activity #1
Estimated Time: 10 minutes

In the previous module, you learned the wall surfaces and the
types of paint you will be using in your career as a painting
and decorating professional. As you move forward in this
module, you are now ready to paint. Before you begin, it is
important to ensure that you are prepared with the proper
tools for the job.

For a regular painting job, you will need a paint kettle, a

rolling brush, white spirit, a filing knife, a dust sheet, a
pad and tray, an extension pole, and a radiator brush. Once
you have gathered your tools, think back on what you learned
in the previous modules, and prepare your wall surface for
painting. Your next step involves applying short strips of
painter’s tape around the baseboards, windows, doorframes, and
anywhere else you do not want to be painted.

Keep in mind that there are different levels of adhesion for

various types of paint, so be sure that you are using the
correct one. The last and final step involves protecting the
floor with a dust cloth.

Now that your room is ready for painting what is the next
step?

What are the steps you would take to prime the surface? How
can you prepare the primer for paint?

4.2 Getting Ready to Paint

We have already discussed several tools you
will need to have on hand when working in
the painting and decorating industry, but
there are some that are specific to
painting.

If you are simply painting without anything fancy, you will

require a paint kettle, rolling brush, white spirit, filing
knife, dust sheet, pad and tray, extension pole, and radiator
brush.
You will also require paint, of course, as well as primer and
undercoat. Remember, there are different types of paints,
primers, and undercoats, so make sure to choose the
appropriate type.

You should also make sure that the wall surface is prepared
and cleaned, a process that was described in the previous
module.
The next thing that you should do is to apply painter’s tape
to the surface. There are different levels of adhesion for
painter’s tape, so again, make sure that you are using the
correct type of paint. If the ceiling of the room that you are
painting is not textured, the painting tape should be placed
on the edge where the wall and ceiling meet. Apply short
strips of tape in an overlapping manner, making sure that you
press the tape firmly in order to prevent the paint from
bleeding through.

If the ceiling is textured, you will place the tape in the

same manner, only make sure to run a screwdriver over the edge
of the ceiling. Be very careful, as you only want to create an
area for the tape to stick to; you do not want it to be
noticeable. You should also apply tape to other surfaces, such
as baseboards and window or door frames, in the same manner.

It is also important to prepare the floor for painting, so

cover it with a dust cloth.
These cloths are made of a number of materials, some of which
might be better than others. Canvas drop cloths are the best,
but they are also the most expensive. As a professional,
however, you likely will want to choose this option, as you
can reuse them. Alternatively, you can purchase plastic or
paper cloths. Make sure to tape the cloths to the ground,
especially at the edges, and if you can, remove all furniture
out of the room. If you can’t, cover the furniture with these
cloths.
How Much Paint You Will Need

4.3 Priming the Surface

You might believe that you are ready to
prime at this point, but there are still
things that one must do before applying the
primer. You must, for example, cut in the
primer.

This is essentially the action of outlining the room in

primer. You will take a small paintbrush, one that is about
55mm, dip it into the paint until about 1/3 of the brush is
covered, and then create bands of primer around the wall edges
where it meets ceilings, frames, hinges, and baseboards.
When cutting in, you might choose to do the entire room at
once, which will help you to get done more quickly. However,
this also will allow the border you create to dry, which means
it might not blend well when applying the rest of the primer.
It’s best to cut in and then paint at once, which will create
a seamless, smooth look.

Remember, a primer is designed to seal the wall, prevent the

growth of mould, and to give a smooth surface for paint.
Begin to paint the primer in small sections with a roller,
moving the tool from the top to the bottom, and then from one
side to the other. Using a V or W-shaped stroke is ideal until
the section is completed. Refill the roller with primer, and
then complete the next section, always making sure to overlap
the areas where the primer is wet. This is known as ‘working
to a wet edge,’ and it helps to prevent the appearance of
streaks. Allow the primer to dry.

Prepare the Primer for Paint

Allow the primer to dry completely, and then use a fine-grit
sandpaper to lightly remove ridges, bumps, and other
imperfections on the surface. Using a damp towel or sponge,
wipe the wall after sanding, and allow it to dry. At this
point, you can apply an undercoat, if you like, or get ready
to apply the paint.

4.4 Painting Simple Walls

Now, you are ready to paint.

Before starting a painting job, it is important to mix the

paint with a stick or mixing tool. Also, note that you should
refill a paint tin with the paint in another tin when it’s
half empty. This way, you will avoid noticeable variations in
colour. If you have a lot of paint, such as when using large
US gallon buckets, you should do the same.
When the paint is ready, cut in the room a second time, but
this time with the paint, not the primer. You should still
have your painter’s tape up, and make sure when you apply the
paint, that you brush it onto the wall first, not the tape.
When most of the paint is off the brush, only then should you
begin to overlap your strokes to the tape. This way, you will
not be wasting paint and the odds are lower that the paint
will seep under it.

Apply the paint with a roller in the same way that you apply
the primer; working in small areas from the ceiling to the
floor. Work from the ceiling to the floor, and then from one
side of the wall to the other, ensuring that you blend the
areas together as you move on. Use V or W-shape strokes once
again, and do not pick up the roller, especially when creating
your first strokes. As you work on overlapping the areas that
are already painted, lightly lift up the roller to avoid
leaving any marks.

For the best results, you might require a second coat. Before
applying it, allow the first coat to completely dry, usually
between two and four hours.
Finally, you can remove the painter’s tape. If it is left on
for too long, it might tear or small pieces might be left
behind. Use a utility knife to carefully remove the tape, and
then look closely to remove any small pieces left behind.
Thoroughly clean all of the rollers and brushes, and then
tightly seal the paint containers before attempting to move
them.

Painting a Feature Wall – 11m 31s

In this video Paul will guide you through the process of
painting a feature wall.
4.5 Painting Effects
Now that you have a basic understanding of
how to paint, you might be interested in
learning how to paint in order to create
certain effects, such as stencils and
graining, or how to use special effects
paint.

Stencils
There are some beautiful stencils on the market, and many
clients will want to incorporate them into their finished
rooms. Stencils look difficult, but the process is quite easy.
You can only stencil over paint that is already dry, so keep
that in mind.

You will have to measure carefully in order to use a stencil,

so a variety of measuring tools might be required in addition
to the same tools you used when painting. Additionally, you
will require special brushes, known as stencil brushes, which
are round with flat-bottomed bristles.

Determine where you are going to start the stencilling, and

tape the stencil to the dry wall with painter’s tape. First,
you will use the dry brush method, which will give you a base
to paint upon. To do this, just dip the tip of the brush into
the paint, and then remove any excess by dapping the brush on
a piece of kitchen roll. Use this brush to place the first
layer of paint in the stencil, again, by dapping it on.

Once that is in place, you will put another coat, this time
applying the paint with a heavier hand over the openings of
the stencil.

Do not, however, brush the paint over the openings, as it is

too easy for the paint to seep underneath. To make sure the
paint remains where it should, wear gloves and press down
around the openings when stippling to ensure lines are sharp.
When the stencil is completely filled in, you are ready to
move it to the next spot… before you do, however, use a pencil
to lightly trace the registration points, small openings on
the stencil that allow you to line one next to the other. To
make sure you are moving the stencil to the correct spot,
consider using a spirit level. Continue painting the stencil
across the wall until the area is covered with the desired
design.

Graining
You also might be interested in learning how to apply a
graining effect, which will make the surface look like fine
wood.

To do this, you will require the following in addition to your

basic painting supplies:

Two shades of brown water-based paint with eggshell or

satin finish
An angled trim brush
Paint rollers – 6-inch and 12-inch
Clear glaze
Paint comb
Wood-grain rocker

To begin, apply painter’s tape to the wall as instructed

above, and then pour one of the brown paints, depending on the
effect you want to imitate, into a paint tray. Use the trim
brush to cut in at the edges, and then use a large, 12-inch
roller, to apply the paint to the rest of the wall. At this
point, the process is the same as painting a regular wall.

However, this is where things change. Now, you will take the
glaze and mix it in equal parts to the second brown colour. To
create a subtle look, this colour should only be a shade or
two darker or lighter than the coat on the wall. If you want a
more dramatic effect, you will choose a shade that is much
darker or lighter. Pour this into a smaller paint tray and use
a 6-inch roller with the extension pole. Dip the roller into
the glaze/paint mixture, and then roll a vertical stripe
starting from the top all the way down to the bottom. It’s
best to start at one end of the wall, and then move to the
other.

As soon as the paint is applied, take a three sided paint comb

and use the large or medium side along the stripe. This will
create lines in the paint. Don’t worry about staying straight
as you create the lines, as real wood is not straight. In
fact, try to twist the wrist when you can to add variations
and curves.

Next, take a wood-graining rocker at the top of the strip, and

keep the handle pointed towards your body. The edges will
overlap what you have created. Pull it down the wall and
rotate the handle to create a heartwood effect. Rotate the
handle down, and then back up to create knots. Remember, real
wood has a number of variations, so make sure to use these
variations in the graining effect. Repeat these steps until
the area is completely covered, making sure to place each new
stripe directly next to the other.

Activity #2
Estimated Time: 10 minutes

Now that you have mastered priming and painting simple walls,
you can move on to learning how to create certain effects.

Once you have finished painting a room for a client, they

might want to incorporate some new paint décor. You can
include a variety of beautiful stencils over your dry paint
using a stencil brush and the dry brush method. There are also
special effect paints on the market including metallic, pearl-
finish, chalkboard, and suede paints, as well as glitter
glazes. These specialised paints can be utilised to add a
touch of glamour to an area, or to transform walls into
featured walls.

You can also use these paints to add an elegant trim to

radiators, or woodwork.

There is one last technique you may be interested in learning

as a painting and decorating professional.

If your client would like for the surface area to like fine
wood, what method can you use to achieve this for them?

What supplies will you need to achieve this? How do you

perform this effect?

4.6 Special Effects Paint

If you want to take a bit of the work out of
it, there are also a number of special
effect paints on the market.

Here are some of the most common:

Metallic paints
– these paints are ideal for trims and for fixtures such as
radiators. You might also find metallic paints that are
designed for walls or woodwork. Metallic paint is applied just
like regular paint, but it takes a bit of focus and care to
create a good finish. This is especially true when painting
over a large area, as it will likely leave marks. The best way
to avoid this is to cut in first, and then quickly apply
vertical strokes with a short-pile roller. This might take
some practice before offering it to clients.
Pearl-finish paints
– pearl-finish paint is another option, and it brings a
luxurious feel to woodwork and trim, or when applied with
stencils. As with metallic paint, pearl-finish can be
difficult to apply, as brush marks will be visible. So, it’s
important that you only paint in one direction.

Glitter glaze
– if you want to create a touch of class or glamour, a glitter
glaze is an excellent choice. You can use stencils to apply
the glaze, paint it directly onto the wall over existing
paint, or apply it with stamps.

Chalkboard paint
– many people see the benefits of having a chalkboard in their
homes, and now chalkboard paint has become easy to access in
the UK. This paint is applied to MDF, and is perfect for the
kitchen, study, office, or children’s room.

Suede paint – you will find that suede paint best works to
transform walls that will appear as feature walls. It can also
be used to create contrast when applied with stencils,
especially on a matt wall.

FACT
Wallpaper has been around for hundreds of years with the
earliest mention in Europe dating to 1481. At that time, it
only consisted of individual sheets pasted together before
painting. After several developments in the industry,
production rose steadily from 5 million rolls in 1851, to over
32 million in 1874

Source: coatings.org.uk

4.7 Wallpapering
Wallpapering is another option for
decorating a room, and it comes in almost
endless choices in regards to colour and
style.

Wallpaper looks like it is difficult to apply, but it is

fairly easy when you learn how to do it. The rest of this
module will focus on wallpapering.
How much wallpaper you will need

International Performance Symbols for

Wallpaper
Tools for the Job
In order to wallpaper, you should gather the following tools:

Step ladder
Tape measure
Wallpaper adhesive/stripper
Stripping knife
Sponge
Pasting table
Pasting brush
Plumb line
Trimming knife
Scissors
Paper hanging brush

Preparing the Walls

Before you can apply wallpaper to walls, you must make sure
that the walls are correctly prepared. Thus, you must remove
the wallpaper that is currently on the walls. You must
determine what type of wallpaper is present.

There is both strippable and non-strippable wallpaper

available. Strippable wallpaper can simply be pulled away from
the wall. Non-strippable wallpaper must be soaked and then the
adhesive must be scraped away.

One of the easiest ways to do this is to mix hot water with

unscented fabric softener in a 1:1 ratio. Apply this with a
sponge, and then allow it to soak in for about 10 minutes.
Using a stripping knife, remove the paper.
Keep in mind, if you are pulling wallpaper from drywall, you
cannot allow it to soak too long or the wall will become
damaged.
There are also steam-powered strippers on the market that
allow you to strip the wallpaper much more quickly. This is a
great investment for those who start their own painting and
wallpaper business.

Once all of the paper is removed, wash the wall with hot,
soapy water, and make sure to scrape the wall to remove any
residual paste. Dry the wall, and then you are ready to
wallpaper.

Paper Stripping – 4m 09s

In this video you will learn how to strip wallpaper from
walls.

Preparing to Wallpaper
Now that the walls are clean, they are ready to wallpaper,
right? Possibly. If there are imperfections on the wall, or
you are hanging expensive or embossed wallpaper, it is
recommended that you apply a lining first. You will apply this
paper horizontally, not vertically, and apply it using the
same methods given below. Allow the paper to dry for 12 hours
before applying the actual wallpaper.

Cross Lining
Most wallpaper manufacturers recommend that you cross line
your walls prior to hanging wallpaper. As there is no pattern
to match, cross lining can be started on any wall. Measure the
width of the wall and add on 8cm for trimming. Paste the paper
and fold it in a concertina to make it easy to handle when
hanging. Make sure you leave the paper to soak for the
recommended time. When cross lining you should always leave a
2mm gap at the butt joints.

How to Cross Line around a window

Hang the first piece of paper along the wall at ceiling level.
With your knife cut through the paper from both corners of the
reveal and wrap the paper under the reveal and trim.
Hang the second piece of paper overlapping the first piece
level with the top of the window reveal, wrap it round and
trim.
Splice through the two pieces of paper and remove the top
piece of paper along with the piece underneath.

Once you have removed the off cuts slide the paper down so
that there is a two millimetre gap between the two sheets.

Hang the next piece of paper on the opposite side of the

window reveal repeating the last stage.
<
Hang the next two pieces of paper so that they hang just below
the window ledge, making sure that there is a two millimetre
gap at the butt joints.
Cut a length of paper the whole width of the wall and hang it
level with the underside of the window ledge and overlapping
the previous two pieces of paper.

With your knife splice through the two pieces of paper at both
ends of the window ledge and remove the off cuts.

Slide the whole of the paper down so that there is a 2mm gap
at the butt joints.

Then Hang the last piece of paper leaving a 2mm gap at the
butt joint.
Paper Hanging Preparation – 21m 55s
This video tutorial looks in further detail at the aspects you
need to consider before wallpapering

Measuring
To ensure you have the correct amount of wallpaper, you must
measure with precision. Measure the total perimeter of the
room, which includes the doors and windows, in metres, and
then divide by the wallpaper width. Most are 53m wide, so you
would divide by that number.
You must also multiply the height of the room by the number of
widths of wallpaper required to get the total length, and then
divide once again by the length of the roll. Again, standard
wallpaper is usually 10m, so in this case, divide by 10, and
the answer is the number of rolls you will require. Always buy
an extra roll, at a minimum, just in case.

Cutting Wallpaper
Take the measurement of the height of the wall, and then add
10cm before cutting the first strip, and then use the first
strip to cut the second strip, and so on and so forth. Keep in
mind, if the wallpaper is patterned, you should line up the
pattern before cutting.

Mix the Adhesive

Once the wallpaper is cut and ready, you should mix the
adhesive, if applicable. Some wallpaper has adhesive on it
already, and in this case, you do not need to add additional
adhesive. You simply need to use a sponge to apply water to
the back of the paper.

Pasting the Wallpaper

To begin the hanging process, lay the wallpaper strips on the
pasting table. If the wallpaper has adhesive on the back,
simply use your sponge and warm water to activate the
adhesive. If you are using adhesive, take the pasting brush
and apply the paste to the back of the wallpaper using arm
movements that go upwards and outwards. Make sure to look at
the directions, as some wallpaper requires a ‘soak time,’
which allows the wallpaper to expand.

When the paste is on the wallpaper, fold the ends in towards

the middle, and then prepare to hang it.

Paper Hanging Preparation – 3m 35s

This video tutorial looks in further detail at the aspects you
need to consider before wallpapering

Hanging the Wallpaper

Decide where to hang the wallpaper. It’s best to start by the
window, chimney breast, or in a corner. Draw a vertical line
with a pencil using a plumb line. This will help you keep the
pattern straight. Position the first strip and press it gently
against the topmost part of the wall, making sure to leave
about 50mm to trim off at the end. Take your papering brush
and begin brushing the wallpaper to ensure it is against the
wall and remove any bubbles.

Take the end of the bristled end of the brush, and then press
the end, that extra 50mm, into the space where the ceiling
meets the wall. Trim the excess away with your scissors, and
then push the rest back into place.

Take your second strip of wallpaper and place it next to the

first, smoothing it into place. Make sure that the pattern
matches, and that the seam is as close as possible to the
previous strip. Continue like this until the wall is covered.

Hanging paper – 12m 11s

Hanging Corners – 9m 14s

In this tutorial Paul will show you how to hang wallpaper
around corners.
Dealing with Awkward Areas
Unfortunately, not all walls are straight and clean, and you
will have to wallpaper around doors, windows, wall switches,
etc.

When wallpapering around doorways, the simple thing to do is

to make a diagonal cut into the wallpaper where it will go
around the corner of the door frame. Then, use your scissors
to cut away the excess. You can do the same with a window
frame or sill.
To wallpaper around wall switches, make sure that you turn off
the electricity, and again, make diagonal cuts into the paper
where the corner of the switch sits. Leave about 6mm of paper,
and then remove the plate. Tap the paper into that area, and
then when dry, put the switch plate back into place and turn
the electricity back on.

Paper hanging around windows – 24m 49s

In this video Paul will show you how to paper around windows.

Paper hanging around sockets – 7m 48s

This video tutorial looks in further detail at the aspects you
need to consider before wallpapering

Activity #3
Estimated Time: 10 minutes

Although you will work with paint quite often, you also have
the option of selecting wallpaper when decorating a room.
Wallpaper comes in a variety of colours, and patterns, and
once you have learned the technique, it can be very easy to
apply. Imagine that you have been hired to decorate a new
client’s bedroom and you have chosen wallpaper in lieu of
paint. The bedroom has old, outdated wallpaper and the client
would like to replace it with an embossed wallpaper.

After gathering your ladder, measuring tape, wallpaper

adhesive, stripping knives, pasting brush, and all the other
necessary tools, what is your next step?

Given the client’s specific requests, are there any additional

steps that are required when prepping the wall?

Explain how you would go about measuring, cutting, and

finally, applying the wallpaper.

Assignment
Painting and Wallpapering

Time: 30+ minutes

Hopefully you took in as much of the information in this

fourth module as possible. To find out how well you have
really done in this regard, complete the following worksheet.

Download the worksheet below and complete.

Download Worksheet (PDF)

Module Summary
This fourth module explored the acts of basic painting and
wallpapering. You learned a bit more about the tools required
for painting, as well as the preparations that are required
before painting. This module also explained the proper way to
apply painter’s tape, as well as how to prepare the floor and
room for painting.
This module also focused on the basics of painting a wall,
including how to use primer, and then how to prepare the
primer for the paint. The module further explains a simple
method for painting a basic wall, and it gives tips on how to
cut in both primer and paint with a paint brush. It also
explains how to use a roller, including the movements, to
cover the wall most effectively.

You also received information about how to make simple effects

whilst painting, including stencilling and applying fake
graining. You were given step by step instructions on how to
make stencilling look its best, and how to create wood
graining effects.

This module additionally gave instruction on wallpapering.

This includes how to effectively prepare to apply wallpaper to
a room, including what supplies you might need, information
about the different types of wallpaper and how to apply the
wallpaper to the wall.

Finally, the module explained how to wallpaper tricky areas of

the room, such as around doors, windows, and wall switches.

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