Riccar 108

CONTENTS
BASIC INFORMATION
ie eNAME” OF VPARTS. Gee
gs ee eee «oe kelolahalletys Mmmm ae l
Dee TURNING .ON: LIGHTo (++ io tek ee. Foy. ee rr rr 9

PRINDING “BORBIN © ota +> >» > ieee eee ne. WO en ye oo 3

4. THREADING AND REPLACING BOBBIN, CASE :-------+--::+++:-- 4

Pe INSERTION OF NEED: ¢2.. coe? aee rl
6 UPPER THREADING oe eee. eee... 5

7. \PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT . 205 6-00 9s -s.c- cae r

8. ADJUSTMENT OF DROP” FEED” KNOB 0% siti

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9. TO PREPARE AND TO START SEWING ---::-:+-5

>> 3 @

10. SEWING DIRECTION AND STITCH LENGTH « + -5 55: es q

IY. ADJUSTMENT OF THREAD (‘GENSIONS (27:7 =": 532 7

12. CORRECT NEEDLE AND THREAD FOR FABRICS . -:.:---==.. 8

PRACTICAL SEWING

13. ZIGZAG PATTERN SEWING:* +: +: 0+ grees $0 eee s es cues eine sieve cate. 9
14. SEWING ON BUTTON «-ceeeec
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15: BUTTONHOLE SEWING: +0000 5 Ouetrs me oa ssh 2 ss ose 1]
16. USING CLOTH GUIDE «1: +++ cess ceeees ME Pe MO Sore mh ob. Ge 11
17. HEMMING
+: <0 0 ccc nc soe itis neers olawastceielcbate oe cine ens 6 ateele cele wire = 12
18. OVERCASTING SEAM cece eec cece cs ss cess sete e esse tree eee seeccccceee 12

19. APPLIQUEING -ccreesr

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MAINTENANCE OF MACHINE
20> OLLGING AND«CIsHANING ieee o's ree seo 6 oe8 ahene cette hehe aie reete Orne «nhcke aiahaaeaeee 13
21. CLEANING OF RACE AND HOOK ceecescrrcstes
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22. OILING THE ARM AND BED ceeeecececs

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UNSATISFACTORY CONDITIONS: ‘s
CAUSES AND REMEDIES-::::::
 BASIC INFORMATION
2. TURNING ON LIGHT
1. NAME OF PARTS
Sewing light equipment is built in face plate and is turned on and off by means
of the switch button located at the back side of face plate.
(See Photos 3 and 4.)

Photo. 4

Photo.

Face plate fo . Zigzag width regulating knob

Patch-o-matic darner 14. Zigzag width stopper lever
Arm thread guide 15 . Stitch length regulating lever
Thread take-up lever 16. Drop feed knob
. Dial tension Fy . Hand wheel
Needle bar 18 . Bobbin winder
Needle clamp 19 . Bobbin winder thread guide When to replace bulb, first be sure to unplug your sewing machine. Take off the
CON
—&
O1
DOF
©W Needle 20 , Presser bar lifter face plate by removing the screw. Then bulb is easily accessible and can be
ico) Presser bar Zi . Lamp switch removed just as an ordinary light bulb.
. Presser foot 22 pool pin
. Hinged plate 23 . Motor In fitting a new bulb, always be sure that it is screwed in tightly, because it
Re . Needle plate
peabo
pas
has a tendency to get loosened and fall out while machine is running.
 3. WINDING THE BOBBIN 4. THREADING AND REPLACING BOBBIN CASE
When you wind bobbin, disengage the sewing mechanism from hand wheel by hold- After finished to wind bobbin put it into bobbin case and then position the case
ing it and loosening stop motion screw turning it counter clockwise until it clinks. on the spindle of shuttle hook in the following manner.
|

| (See Photo. 5.)

|
(1) Place a spool of tnread on spool pin.
(2) Pull thread from spool and lead it through two arm thread guides and around
bobbin winder thread guide. (See Photo. 6.)
(3) Wind thread around bobbin several times and place it on bobbin winder spindle

with pin of spindle engaging with slot of bobbin.

Sketch.-2
(4) Push down the bobbin winder as far as it will go and start winding.
(1) Put bobbin into bobbin case with thread
wound in the direction indicated by arrow
in the sketch.
(2) Guide thread into the slot under spring.
aa Then pull thread under tension spring until
it comes into theopening at the end of
spring.
(3) To place bobbin case on the spindle, raise
needle bar to its highest position by turn-
ing hand wheel over toward you.
(4) Pull some three inches of thread out of
bobbin case with thread hanging over thumb

SOthr TEele
UEeadNI‘OUI nail, put bobbin case on spindle. me
Photo. 7

Photo. 5 Photo. 6
d. INSERTION OF NEEDLE
It is essential to use a correct needle according to the kind of fabrics to be
Bobbin winder will be released automatically when bobbin is filled. sewn. Select a proper one refering to the chart on Page. 8.
Wind thread evenly as sketchedin (A) and avoid winding as sketched in (B) or (1) Bring needle bar to its highest point and
(C); adjust bobbin winder thread guide by the following method to get correct lower presser foot. |
(2) Loosen needle clamp and pull old needle
winding. it UN)

i i Dp
: yt clamp

ts
(3) Insert new needle into needle clamp and ie ae"
push it up as far as it will gO. ERG \_\
(Make it sure that the long groove of —< IN OF Tt
Sketons..| needle faces toward you and the flat side
in the opposite direction.)
(1) If bobbin winds high on right side like the shape (B), turn thread guide
(4) Tighten needle clamp.
clockwise with a screwdriver.
NOTE: A bent needle will not produce fine
(2) If bobbin winds high on left side like the shape (C), turn it counter- work. Check needle by placing its
clockwise. flat side against a flat plane. Sketch. 3
6. UPPER THREADING 8. ADJUSTMENT OF DROP FEED KNOB
Raise needle bar to the position high enough for threading the needle and place a For ordinary sewing, set drop feed knob alwave ate Wie.
spoo] of thread on spool pin. In embroidery sewing set it at “DOWN’, Waders the feed dog must not come out
Guide thread from point (1) through (9) as shown in Photo. — 8.
higher than needle plate to allow free mower of material.
(1) Spool
Also in button sewing set it at “DOWN”, because button js to be held in position
(2), (3) Arm thread guide
(4) Dial tension under presser foot and no feeding motion is needed.
(5) Dial tension thread
guide
) Thread take-up spring
) Thread take up lever
8) Needle bar thread guide
) Needle

Photo. 8 9. TO PREPARE AND TO START SEWING

(1) Hold upper thread lightly with left hand.
7 PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
(2) Turn hand wheel over toward you with right hand until needle enters ‘into
Pressure should be adjusted according to thickness of fabric to be sewn in order needle hole to catch lower thread and comes up again bringing it up through
to execute regular feeding of fabric and to produce fine and even seams,
needle hole. (See Photo. 11.)
Generally, heavy pressure is required for heavy fabrics and light pressure for
(3) Piaketn ends of both threads together and draw them to back of machine and
fine fabrics.
(1) To increase pressure, push down the darner spindle as low as the desired under presser foot. (See Photo. 12.)
position. (See Photo. 9.) (4) Place material under presser foot and position needle in material.
(2) To decrease pressure, push down the patch-o-matic darner (outer ring) and (5) Lower presser foot and start to sew.
the spindle comes up to its highest position.
(3) Follow procedure (1) to get desired pressure. (See Photo. 10.)

Photo. 9 Photo. 10 Photo. 12

10. SEWING DIRECTION AND STITCH LENGTH Upper thread tension can be corrected by setting dial to lower number in case of
(B) and to higher number in case of (C).
Both changing sewing direction and adjusting stitch length are effected by stitch
length regulating lever. 7 The higher the numeral on the tension dial, the more upper tension is tightened.

Forward sewing is accomplished when the lever is located lower than position Lower thread tension can be adjusted by turning the bobbin case screw with a
“QO”. When to execute reverse sewing raise it higher than position “O’.
screwdriver.
Stitch length is determined according to numerals
Tension increases when the screw is turned to the right, and decreases when
from “O” to “5° on the indicator. Position
turned to the left.
lever for desired stitch length and tighten it by
turning thumb nut to right.
Once the lever has been positioned, the same 12. CORRECT NEEDLE AND THREAD FOR FABRICS
stitch length of reverse sewing is obtained — by
raising it as high as it goes.

No. 80-100 cotton thread

Thin calico, silk, serge and muslin.
or fine silk thread.

Photo. 13 Thin calico, cotton cloth, crepé de No. 60-100 cotton thread

ll. ADJUSTMENT OF THREAD TENSIONS chine, hosiery and silk. or ordinary silk thread.

Tensions of upper and lower threads are correctly balanced if both threads inter Ordinary cotton cloth, thick silk, No. 40-60 cotton thread
lock in the center of fabric, as illustrated in Sketch (A). thin woolen goods, towels and shirt-
ing. or ordinary silk thread.

faassen (raster, [arasan, [aassan [tit Thick cotton cloth, serge and thin No. 30-60 cotton thread
PED DCN Mk (CAN) woolen goods. or ordinary silk thread.

Ordinary woolen goods, trousers, No. 30-60 cotton thread

If tension of upper thread in relation to that of lower thread, lower
is too strong over-coats, thick calico and child-
ren’s clothes. or ordinary silk thread.
thread will be pulled up to the top surface of fabric and appear there in the form
of small knots or loops, as illustrated in Sketch (B).

NOTE: Use a good quality of merchandized cotton thread, if available, to avoid

SAV LZLLLLE LLL LLL LLL (B )
4A )\\(ASML \\CHMMMA\\ VM \\CALM \\VILA shrinking when laundered.

If tension of lower thread is too strong in relation to that of upper thread, upper
thread will be pulled down to bottom surface of fabric and appear there in the
form of small knots or loops, as illustrated in Sketch (C).

TN ITTTZNM COLCA CO A
PMN POOZTANEIZZZANZZZANCZZZAE ZZ CC: )
Sketch. 4
 PRACTICAL SEWING For sewing zigzag seams of constant width, use the zigzag width stopper by
setting it at desired number on the indicator of zigzag knob.
13. ZIGZAG PATTERN SEWING When to use stopper, depress the lever and
You can enjoy endless variety of zigzag patterns just by the combination of zigzag Slide it toward the right.
width and stitch length both from 0 to 5. (At the same time the outer ring of zigzag knob
Some of the sewing samples are illustrated in the chart below, and you can make moves together with the lever.)
many other patterns except the samples by the operation of zigzag knob and stitch When. the black pointer engraved on the ring
Pointer
lever. comes at the desired number release the lever
Please note that the machine is designed for left needle position and the needle and make it snap into position.
always works from left as its starting point. (oce Photo. 147)

Stitch Zigzag Dial

Pattern
)‘ »y* S
length
oY (ox

(operation)
.

regulator
Photo. 14

Tithe O too and return it

from 5 to 0 drawing same curved
lines. 14. SEWING ON BUTTON
To sew on button procede as follows.
Turn dial slowly and at the same
(1) Use button sewing foot.
speed from (0 to 5 and return it
(2) Set drop feed knob at “DOWN”.
quickly from 5 to 0.
(3) Place button under foot so that needle
enters into left hole of button.
Turn dial from 0 to 5 and return
(4) Lower foot and turn hand wheel toward you
it from 5 to 0 at the same speed.
until needle comes out of buttonhole.
(5) Then make needle go down to the right by
Turn: dial-inem- 0 to 2 and from
turning hand wheel while moving zigzag
205, andgecurn it from 5 to Z
knob slowly.
and from 2 to 0, pausing at each
position, and start quickly. (6) Stop zigzag knob at the position where

Set dial so that the number: is needle enters into right hole.
not “lower than 2 and turn dial (7) Depress and slide stopper lever to the
irom 2 ator om and trom ©5. tom
Photo. 15
pausing at each position § and right as far as it goes and release.
start quickly. (8) Run machine at medium speed and sew about
)
6 to 8 stitches.
(9) End on the left side and release stopper.
(10) To fasten stitching, take about 6 stitches.

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——
 15. BUTTONHOLE SEWING 17. HEMMING

Use the buttonhole sewing foot. . ae (1) Fit hemmer foot to presser bar.

(1) (2) Cut Aas ain off the edge of fabric in order: that fabric may be rolled
Set the zigzag knob at 1.5 by operating zigzag stopper lever and sew the left
side seams of buttonhole. () smoothly into scroll of hemmer. |
(3) Fold the edge of fabric over approxima te ly 1/8 inch,
S Set zigzag knob at 4 and sew first bar tacks. (@) then fold it over again

ws Raise needle to its highest position and lift presser foot. in the same way for a length of about 2 inches.
(4) Insert the end fold into spiral formed opening of the hemmer
S Reverse work and align the left side end of bar tacks with the left needle foot.

position. @) (5) Move fabric slightly back and forth until

Lower presser foot. fold forms scrolled shape.

Oy=
01 Set zigzag knob at 1.5 and sew the other side seams of buttonhole. (6) Draw fabric toward you until the end of
iS
aa See @
S Set zigzag knob again at 4 and sew another bar tacks. ()
fabric is just below the needle.
(7) Set stitch length regulating lever on about

NOTE: Do not operate the zigzag stopper lever while the needle sticks into the
Z ;
fabric. (8) Lower foot and start to sew.
(9) Guide fabric carefully into hemmer foot.

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NOTE : Don’t push or pull fabric while sewing.

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18. OVERCASTING SEAM

Use this stitch when you wish to finish off edges of fabric and to give durable
finish where fabrics have a tendency es ravel.

16. USING CLOTH GUIDE Before starting to sew, trim excess fabric.
Use zigzag presser foot.
Use cloth guide in executing seams parallel to edge of fabric.
(2) Set on desired zigzag width.
(1) Attach cloth guide to bed of machine with
| thumb screw by screwing it into either one
(3) Set stitch length -regulating dial on or
about 2-3.
of two holes on the machine bed.
(4) Start sewing taking care that stitches
(2) Place fabric under presser foot and adjust
appear one of outside edge and the other
position of guide to required distance from
on inside of fabric.
needle. |
(3) Tighten thumb screw and start to sew.
Photo. 16
Photo. 18

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 21. CLEANING OF RACE AND HOOK
19. APPLIQUEING Raise the needle bar to its highest point by

This is one of the most interesting and fancy applications of your zigzag sewing turning the hand wheel toward you.

machine. (1) Take out the bobbin case.

You will find its effectiveness either by contrasting two fabrics or even adding (2)) Unlock the shuttle holder.
self-fabric. (3 ) Open the shuttle race cover.
(1) Set zigzag width for desired width of (4 ) Take out the shuttle. ©

stitch.

(2) Set stitch length for a satin stitch.or a Clean dust and gummed oil off of each part with

very close zigzag stitch. an oiled cloth. When finished cleaning, reassem-

(3) After the stitching has been completed, ble reversing above procedure.

trim the excess fabric.

NOTE: Do not apply oil directly to the above
mentioned parts or it will stain
thread.

Photo. 19 Sketch. 8

MAINTENANCE OF MACHINE 22. OILING THE ARM AND BED

20. OILING AND CLEANING 1. About an hour’s use per day may require oiling once a week.
2. Oil the machine at least once a month to keep it in good condition, even if it
Pieces of thread and or dust accumulating ; ne
is not used for a long period.
between the needle plate and feed dog will 3
| 3. Take off the arm cover by loosening the two screws with a screw driver.
cause trouble.
trouble | oe ae
(See Photo. 20))
Always keep the machine clean. Remove the
4. While oiling, turn the hand wheel slowly toward you so that oil will cover
needle, zigzag sewing foot and needle plate with 4
every part.
a screw driver for cleaning. Ee plate ~_ ys
O1 When oiling to the points under the machine, tilt the machine back and apply
After removing the parts, clean all necessary Sketch. 5
oil to the part marked with an arrow. (See Photo. 21.)
parts with a brush while turning the hand wheel
toward you. Be sure that cleaningis thorough.
When finished, reassemble the machine, revers-

ing the above procedure.

Sketch. 6

Pino forue2.0 am. Photo. 21

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UNSATISFACTORY CONDITIONS: CAUSES AND REMEDIES

Unsatisfactory Remedy
Condition

The needle is not threaded correctly. Thread the needle

Loosen it.
correctly.
YOUR ACCESSORIES KIT
The tension 1s too tight.
Something is wrong with the needle. Replace it.
The Upper Pwr
The thread used is too heavy for the Replace it.
needle.
Thread Breaks 5. The thread take-up spring is broken. Replace it.
6. The needle is not set correctly. Set it correctly. Presser foot
7. The needle plate, the hook, or the Replace it.
for straight Hemmer
pressure foot is damaged.
1. When the lower thread is not wound Wind it properly.
stitching
The Lower
correctly, it gets entangled.
2. The lower thread is off the tension Put it in its proper position.
Thread Breaks
spring of the bobbin case.
1. The needle is not attached to the Attach it properly.
needle bar correctly. | Button holer
Skipped 2. The needle is either bent or blunt. Replace it.
Button sewing foot
3. The pressure of the presser bar is Tighten it. | foot
Stitches
not sufficient.
The wrong needle is used. Replace it.

The needle is bent. Replace it.

The needle is not attached properly. Attach it correctly.
The Needle Use proper needle.
The material is too thick or heavy.
ior The
gape
pata material is being pulled by Don’t pull the cloth.
Breaks Thumb screw
operator. .
. The needle is of inferior quality. Replace it with proper needle.

. The thread tension is not properly See instructions for adjustment ] (Ge) |
adjusted. of upper and lower thread
tensions.
2. The needle is not threaded correctly Thread and/or rewind properly.
Stitching and/or the bobbin is not wound
properly. .
Forms Loops 3. The weight or thickness of the ma- See instructions covering the use
terial and the size of the needle are of proper needles and threads
not in accord. with varying materials.
4. The thread take-up spring does not Replace it.
work well.
. The thread tension is too tight. See instructions for adjustment —~

of upper and lower thread

as well:
Shrink tensions.
Seams of the presser foot is See instructions for proper
2. The pressure 1 Needle case <cccttscttt
ttt: 1:
Accessory hox <ccecceceeee
a eee too strong. pressure on cloth.
3. The position of the feed dog is too See instructions covering adjust-
1, : d Samed AS URE ONS |e "2 OR et
high. ment of the feed dog. é
Oilcan 1 Spool pin felt
. Use straight sewing foot.
Screw driver (large) PE tee 1 Ripper SRP ADA A AIC! 5 OOO CS OMY 1
. The upper and lower threads are Use thread of good quality.
of inferior quality.
2. The pressure on the presser foot is See instructions for proper Screw driver (small) ----:: 1 Binh ce ie nte » ee eects 28 1
Irregular pressure on cloth.
inadequate.

Stitching Bobbins mee «os eater g

. The thread is wound around the bobbin. Rewind it.
. The position of the feed dog is too low. See instructions covering adjust-
TE uric co. 0.» LekeMeelienion ue 3
ment of the height of the feed dog. Needles

1. The machine is in need of oil. Apply oil as per instructions.

The machine 2. Dust and waste thread have collected See instructions on cleaning
in the hook mechanism. of the race and hook.
does not work
3. Oil of inferior quality is used and has Clean thoroughly and oil again
smoothly and coagulated with proper sewing machine
is noisy. oil of best quality.
. The tension on the belt is too tight. Loosen it.

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