General Description. The Lubrication System. Section No. A. Draining che sump. Section No. A2 Ol pressure. Section No, A.3 Removing the carburetters. Section No.A4 Removing and adjusting the fan belt. Section No.A.S Removing the exhaust manifold, Section No.A.6 Removing the water pump. Section No. A.7- Removing the cylinder head, Section No,A.8 —Decarbonising. Section No.A.9 Removing the rocker gear. Section No, A.1O Removing the valves. Section No. A.I]_ Servicing valves and seatings. Section No. A.I2 Valve guide service. Section No. A.I2 Valve-recker clearances. Section No. A.I4 Removing and replacing the power unit. Sectién No. A.I5_ Removing the sump. Section No. A.I6 Removing the oll pump. Section No, A.I7 Dismantling and reassembling the oil pump, Section No. A.I8- Removing the crankshaft pulley. Section No. A.I9_ Removing the timing case cover. Section No, A.20_ Removing and replacing the timing chain. Section No, A.21 Removing the crankshaft chain wheel, Section No. A.22 Removing the chain tensioner. Section No, A.23 Removing the camshafts, Section No, A24 Removing a plston snd connecting rod, Section No. A25 Removing plston rings. Section No.A.26 Fitting a gudgeon pin and replacing a piston. Section No. A.27 Removing the crankshaft, Section No,A.28 Removing and replacing main bearings. Section No. A.29 Removing the clutch. Section No, A.30 Removing the flywheel. Section No. A.31 Regrinding the crankshaft, Section No, A.32 Locating troubles, Section No. A.33 Piston sizes and cylinder bores. Section No. A34 Fitting an engine steady. Section No. A.35 Larger capacity oi pump, Section No. A Engine revolution indicator, Paubfinder. fanue 4 (H & £) 99302—7/55 AtA rme exerve GENERAL DESCRIPTION The four-cylinder, overhead valve engine ss bullt in unit construction with a four-speed gearbox. The four-throw crankshaft is carried In shree main bearings which are white-metalled sce! shells located by cabs. End thrust Is taken by 2 split thrust wather at each side of the rear main bearing, The blg-end bearings are also white-metlled steel shells, The pistons are of aluminium alloy feted with two compression and two oll control rings. The gudgeon pin fully floating and located by circlips. Each camshaft runs In three bearings. The end bearings of both exhaust and inlet camshaft are flanged and bolted to the block; the centre bearing of the exhaust camshaft is a plain bronze bush ; the centre inlee camshaft bearing is 3 split zinc-based alloy bush, he upper half of which is located by an externally accessible set screw, and dowelled to the lawer half. The valves are operated from che camshafts by hrellow cylindrical appets, short pust-rodsand rockers. ‘A thermo-siphon cooling system is assisted by & pump. thermostat and shx-bladed fan. THE LUBRICATION SYSTEM “The submerged, self-priming, gear-type oil burt i bolted co the under face of the cylinder black and driven by a skew gear on the inlet camshaft, From the pump. the oil is delivered to a fullfiow oil Heer and from the filter to the main and big-end bearings. Camshafts, timing chaln and rocker-shafes are supplied by means of internal ollWays drilled In the crankcase ‘The pressure relief valve is located in the olf filter body. The oil filler is on the leftehand rocker cover, the erankease breather on the lefthané side of che block and the dipstick on the right-hand side, Section DRAINING THE ENGINE SUMP The sump on new and reconditioned engines muse be drained and refilled with new oil after the fire 500 miles (BOO km.)and then a€ intervals of 3,000 miles (5000 km.). The hexagon-headed drain plug is situated fon the righthand side of the sump. The ol! should preferably be drained when the engine Is har. in which condition the oil flows more readily. Allow the sump to érain for at least ten minutes before the drain plug is replaced. Whan the sump has been drained, approximately 13 pints (15° US, pints ¢ 7-4 litres) of oll are required to refill i. Az Section 2 OIL PRESSURE Under normal running conditions the oil pressure should not drop below 30 Ib./sq. in. 11 kg, lem) ‘on the gauge, whikt approximately {2 Ib./sq. in (9 kgsieme) should be shown when the engine is ‘dling. Should there be a notice the following points :— 1. That there is a good supply of the correct grade of ol in the engine sump. 2. That the pump gears are in order and have the correct clearances, 3. That the gauze oil pump filter 5 clean and noe chaked with sludge. 4, That the bearings on the delivery side to which oll Is fed under pressure have the correct working clearance, Should the bearings be worn and the clearancas excessive, the oil will escape more readily from the sides of the bearings, particularly when the oll is warm and fluid, This will use a drop in ths prewure racorded on the gauge as compared with that shown when the bearings are in goad order. Note—The automatic rellef valve deals with ony ‘excessive ail presture when the engine ail [5 cold. Gold running and unnecessary use of the mixture control Ia often the couse of serious ol dilution by fusl. with & consequent drop In pressure. New engines with new ei will produce considerably higher pressure eadiogs than those given, Perticlusr attention is called to che recommended change of wil every 3,000 miles (5000 km). This is @ most important factor in attaining long and trouble-free service from the engine. Oil of the correct grade os specified on page P.2 must be used. Section A REMOVING THE CARBURETTERS. Remove the air silencer and the ignition harness. Unscrew the two set screws and nuts securing the cast aluminium intake pipe to each carburetter. Disconnect the flexible fuel intake at the Tepiece between the float-chambers, and detach the mixture control cable from both carburetter levers Disconnect the throttle control rad from che rear carburetter, ard the hand throetle contral cable. Disconnect the suction pipe from the rear ca buretter,Al cme exewe Unscrew the four flange nuts and remove the ewo carburetters, with the interconnecting throttle rod, as an assembly, Replacement is a reversal of the above procedure, Ensure that the gaskets are In gocd condition. Section Ait REMOVING THE FAN BELT AND ADJUSTING BELT TENSION Disconnect one of the battery leads to. prevent any possibilty of the engine being started. Slacken the four dynamo securing bolts and ease the belt over one of the pulleys as the engine Is turned slowly, ‘When the bele is replaced, the dynamo should be gently pulled outwards by hand to give the required belt tension. Fie Ale ‘he four dynamo vecsring bolte are indeed by the arrows, potion AS REMOVING THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD Drain the water from the cooling system. Remave the windshield washer fluid container and Ws bracket. Slacken the clips and disconnect the water pump outlet hose. Disconnect the brass heater pipe union and the hove at Its rear end. Unscrew the nuss from the water manifold studs and remove the manifold and heater pipe. Disconnect the exhaust pipe flange. Unscrew the eight bress nuts holding the exhaust manifold and lift of the manifold, AS Section A.G REMOVING THE WATER PUMP Drain the water from the cocling system and remove the radiator as detailed In Section D.2, Remove the fan belt as in Section A.A. Disconnect the two hose connections to the pump. Unseraw the four set screws securing the pump t0 the timing cate cover, and remove the pump impeller housing and fan assembly. Seetion A.7 REMOVING THE CYLINDER HEAD Drain the water from the cooling system. Remove the alr silencer, fume extractor pipe, distributor head and \gaition harness. Remove the carburetters as detallad in Section A. Unscrew the elips and remeve the top water hose, Disconnect the heacer hose from the rear right- hand side of the cylinder head, Unscrow the four set screws securing the water ‘outlet housing on che top of the timing ease cover. Remove the thermometer adaptor from the thermo: stat housing, and the housing from the cylinder head, with the water outlet housing Remove the rocker cavers and engine steady. (See Section A.34.) Remove the exhaust and water menifalds from the head at detsilad in Saction AS. Slighely slacken the cylinder head huts in the order shown in Fig. A and then fully unscrew and remove them. Break the join and life the head slightly, holding le the lifted pasition by means af a strip of wood | ‘move each valve rocker to one side and pull out the pusherods. Life of the head. The eylinder head fs pow ready for decarbonisation and valve-grinding as detalled in appropriate sections, Replacement of the head is a reversal of the above procedure. Tighton the cylinder head muts in the order shows n Fig. A.2 co.a torque wrench reading of 900 1b. in. Section AB DECARBONISING Remove the eylinder headas explained inSection A.7. Take out the valves as indicated in Section 4.10, Life off the eylinder head gasket, and plug all water holes and che rappet guides wich cloth plugs. Scrape the carbon off the piston crowns, cylinder heads and Iniec and exhaust ports. Take care that the pistons are not scratched by the use of a sharp took,fe 16 also advisable te polish the combustion chambers with emery cloth, but great care must be taken to lean away all traces of abrasive dust. Never use emery cloth on the piston tops because mall abrasive particles will undoubtedly find their way Into the cylinder bores. ‘A ring of carbon should be left on the periphery of the pliton crowns by placing 2 piston ring on the top, and the carbon round the top of the cylinder bores should also be retained intact. Remove all eraces of dust by means of comprassed sir and then clean well with paraffin (kerosene). Always use anew cylinder head gasket after decar- bonising. Section AD REMOVING THE ROCKER GEAR Remove the alr silencer, fume pipe and ignition harness. Remove the rocker covers, Fig AL ‘The order of tightening the cylinder head nuts Depress each valve in turn and remove the push-rod by pushing che rocker to one side, Slacken the cylinder head nuts slightly (n the order shown In Fig. Al; this Is necessary #9 prevent any possibility of distortion as two of the rocker-shalt studs also secure the head. Remove all the retaining tuts and life off the rocker-shafe assemblies. ‘The rockers are bushed and of twa types, left-hand and right-hand, Each rocker-shaft is In four sectlons carrled in five pedestals, the sections being located by set screws on the second and fourth pedestals, the fron and rear of which are not Incerchangeable with each ather or side for side. They are drilled for rocker lubrication, che oil passing upa hollow stud. Note that flats are machined on the rockershafts, These flas must face towards the valves, — THE 10 REMOVING THE VALVES ‘The valve springs are rotained In position on the valves by means of a cup and split collar. Compress the valve springs with 2 suitable com- pressor and remove the collars; withdraw the springs “inner and outer—and the locating washers. ‘When replacing, note thae the closed colls should be placed towards the cylinder head. Section Section AI SERVICING VALVES AND SEATINGS Remove the valves and springs as detalled In Section Allo. ‘Clean each valve and examine the seat for signs of plcting. IF chis Js apparent the valye must be refaced. The same applies to the cylinder head valve seats and In both cases only enough metal must be removed to give a suitable seat for grinding. Each valve should be replaced in the port fram which Je was removed, and when grinding the faces a fine cor medium grads carborundum paste should be used. Place a light coll spring under the head of the valve fand use a suction-type grinding cool to give a recle procating motion to the valve, ‘An even grey matt finish is desirable and if the seating ic too wide Ic must be reduced to approximately -080 in, (2 mm.) by means of 3 45° cutter ‘Make sure chat no grinding paste remains anywhere ‘on the cylinder head, valves or ports after the valvex are ground In. Section A.12 VALVE GUIDE SERVICE The valve guides are Interchangeable and quite plain without ary shoulder. They may be tapped out with a drife, and when fitting 2 replacement guide the new one should be pressed in until the top Is Fein. (20:64 mm.) above the seat (inlet and exhaust). The extra length of the exhaust guides should project into the ports Section ALS VALVE-ROCKER CLEARANCES. Ifthe engine is in che car, it Is first necessary 16 remove the alr silencer, Ignition harness, fume pipe. and rocker covers, ATTHE ENGINE (Longitudinal Section)The tappets are set by screwing the balkended adjusting screws in or out as required to give 4 clearance between the valve and rocker of O11 In. (28 Wm.). for inlet and exhaust valves when the engine is hot. Section AM REMOVING AND REPLACING THE POWER UNIT Drain the cooling system ; Section D- Drain the oil from the engine and gearbox. Remove the bolt from the upper end of the bonnet prop, and the two: bolts at each side securing the hinges to the dash ; lft off the bonne. Disconnect the battery connections and remove she battery, Remove the top and bottom radiator hoses and the Pipe from the botcom hose ro the pump. Remove the radiator as detailed in Section D.2. Disconnect the thermometer adapter from the thermostat housing. Disconnect the horn, fog lamp and dynamo wires and pull them through the holes in the radiator cradle. Remove the clevis pin and disconnect the bonne. Jock able at the top of the radiator cradle, Remove the fan blades. Unscrew and remove the (2 bolts securing. the radiator cradle to the valances and front cross-member : Ife out the cradle. Remove the starter. Disconnect the earth strip from the bell housing. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold ac the flange i unscrew two bell housing bales and remove the exhaust pipe bracket Remove the air cleaner and disconnect — (0) Hand throttle control wire. (b) Mixture control wire. {e) Windthield wather suction pipe. (d) Brake booster vacuum pipe union, (e) Auco advance suction pipe. (f) Fuel supply pipe at the union. ig) Thretda central rad. Rertove the carburetters and air intake pipe. Remove the windshield washer fluid container Disconnect the oil gauge pipe union on the right: hand side of che block. Unscrew the: brass union nut and disconnect the revolution indicator drive above the oil pump on the righthand side. Disconnect the ignition hand consrol wire from the distributor. Disconnect the heater pipe from the rear right- hand side of the cylinder head and the heater intake THE ENGINE A hose from the copper pipe along the left-hand side fof the head, Unscrew the nuts (upper and lower) from the engine Front mountings. Unhook the dutch réturn spring and diiconnect the adjustable operating rod. Spring the clutch operating fork from the lever on the clutch housing and withéraw the short forked rod and spring. Enuraet the elavie pine securing the gear selector And shifter rods to the bell-erank on the gearbox rear extension | disconnect the two rods. Unserew the two bolts and disconnect the shifter lover at the gearbox extension end : note the rubbers and the number of spacing washers to facilitate re- fiezing Extract the elevis pin and diseomect the shifter rod from the gearbox lever. Remove the engine contrél link, noting the number fof spicing washers fitted. (See Section A34) Disconnect the reverse light wires. Unscrew the speedometer cable, Mark the two halves of the universal joint and remove the propeller shaft, Place @ rope around the unit so that when lifted it will hang.at an angle of about 15°, downwards from Frone to rear ; cake the welgit of the unit on the sling. Remove the two bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the torsion bar bridge piece, and the single bolt passing through the mounting lug on the gearbox rear extension. (See Section A34.) Lift the engine until the sump clears the front cross- member ; it will be necessary to lift the rear end of the rear extension to clear the torsion bar bridge piece. Replacement is a reversal of the above procedure. Section AIS REMOVING THE SUMP Run the car over a pit oF on to a holst, of jack up the front and «upport fe with blacks beneath the chassis side-members. Drain the engine oll from the sum erioue ha ilig trai No. 1 eine Sn en ee engine neil the piston is approximately halfway dawn the bore. Drain the cooling system and disconnect the cop and bottom radistor hoses, Turn the fan uncil one of the blades is vertical + \F necessary remove the fan belt, Disconnect the engine mounting bolts at the front. Lift the front of the engine until the upper fan blade is just touching the inside surface of the radiator cradle. Agds “asmisasd—ont “20 3108 “26 ‘pea pur saupsuco—yeas CRIMANRAS SIGS des Aupde—nyse yA, ‘poq duind sare 0% Suyeaoy soydun—pmis sed —aig ow m sp » ca w ahage SLN3INOdWOD dWNd YALVM GNV TIO FHL OL Aa ‘Bum dor dwnd yo—dor— sore “duund ylo—dor—o8vey, ‘duund yo—uaatsp—se05, vendre ‘duind yo—sap—ieo AltA THE EN INE Unscrew the ser screws securing the sump : lowar the back of the sump carefully to avoid damage to the gasket and remove it cowards the rear, Before replacing the sump, make sure that the engin= hhas been set so that the pistons are approximately: half-way down the bores or the crankshaft webs may prevent the refitcing of the sump. Fie a new gasker REMOVING THE OIL PUMP Remove the sump as detailed in Section A.15. Unserew the two set screws securing the pump to the erankease and withdraw the pump and floating filter assembly. The revolution indicator is driven from the upper ‘end of the oil pump drive shaft by a small separate dog which may fall out as the shaft js withdrawn ; it may be extracted after the revolution indicator drive nousing has been removed, Section A.17 DISMANTLING AND REASSEMBLING THE OIL PUMP Remove the oil pump as detailed (n Section A.l6, withdraw the split pin, and remove the oll pump pick-up. Next take off the bottom cover and tap the shafe downwards so that the gear Is exposed. Tap che driving gear down the shaft to acollar to give access to the retaining split ring and exeract che split ring holding the driving gear In position. Pull off the gear wheel and remove the Woodruff key, ther pull out the shaft. The skew gear ac the top of the driving shafe ls keyed and pinned in position, The bush is pinned In position. The driven gear is bushed and runs on a spindle which Is pressed inte the pump body. Ta check the gear clearances, the pump body, gears and shaft should be cleaned carefully and reassembled before carrying out the following procedure :— |. Measure the diametrical clearance between the teeth of the gears and the pump body. This should not be more than -006 in. (15 mm.) 1. Check the end float on the gears by placing 2 stralght-edge across the fice of the pump body, and measuring the clearances with feelers. This should ot be more than -003 in. (08 mm.) Ensure that the cover-plate and pump body faces are perfectly clean before reassembling. They form a metal-to-metal joint and no gasket or sealing cam= pound must be used Ald When refitting the cover-plate, note tha: the tapped holes are not symmetrically placed, and the cover- plate cin therefore only be replaced one way, FEAR | and 3 are the revolution indicator drive dog and housing ‘ospectively, 2 ls the camshaft bearing loeathng serew. Ie is advisable to clean the pick-up gauze with petrat (gasoline) and a stiff brush (do not use rag), before reassembly. Allow it to dry thoroughly before replacing it. REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY Remove the radiator ar detailed In Section D2. Remove the fan belt as in Section A.4 Raise engine as in Section A.15. Unscrew the four searting handle guide set screws and withdraw the guide. Unscrew the starting dog with a suleable tubylar spanner, and pull off the pulley. eet mm ALL REMOVING THE TIMING CASE COVER Remove the radiator and radiator cradle ax derailed in Section A.I4,Slacken the dyramo mounting belts and remave the fan belt: remove the dynamo. Disconnect the hase from the water pump outlet and the heater pipe union Fig Ad, kis necessary ta remove the water pump before the ming ene cover. It the heater onion. 3nd. Water outlet housing Remove the thermometer adaptor from the therme- stat housing j unscrew the four water pump securing nuts and the set screws securing the thermostat housing and water outler housing ; remove the pump, ‘outlet and thermostat housings as an assembly. Unscrew the front engine mounting nuts and Iie the engine at the front until there Is clearance for the crankshaft pulley to be withdrawn, Block up the {ront of the engine In this position. Unscrew the four starting handle guide set screws from the erankshafe pulley and withdraw the guide Insert a tubular spanrer into the pulley and unscrew the starting dog ; withdraw the pulley wich 2 suitable puller, taking care nor to damage the pulley flanges Note the spacing washers behind the starting. dog and preserve them for replacement ‘Unscrew the nuts and withdraw che cover: Section A.20 REMOVING AND REPILACING THE TIMING CHAIN Remove the timing case cover. Cutthe lecking wires and remove the ewo tensioner ratchets : wedge the tensicner wheel In Its extreme position with the special wedge. Knock up the locking tabs securing the camshaft chain wheel set screws : unscrew the set screws and withdraw one ofthe chain Wheels. The chain may then be lifted off When replacing the chain, set the three chain wheels with the keys ac the top. The chain is provided with three bright links to facilitate clming and these links must coincide with the fetter "7" which will be found stamped on each chain wheel. With the keys: at the top as above. the camshaft wheel marks will also be at the top and the mark on the crankshaft wheel at the bottom. Seetion A.21 REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT. CHAIN WHEEL With the timing chain removed as in Section A.20, the erankshafe chain wheel can be removed by the use of a suitable puller. The shaft is parallel and the wheel is held by 1 Woodruff kay. Section A,22 REMOVING THE CHAIN TENSIONER Remove the timing case cover as in Section A.19, ‘Cut the wires and take out the screws securing the two ratehets. Remove the pawls, caking care not to lose the spring. Unscrew the two scraws and remove the paw! carrier. Slide the wheel and hub from the censioner block : tha block is secured by two set screws, locked by tab washers. Seetion A.2- REMOVING THE CAMSHAFTS Remove the cylinder head and the timing chain at derailed In the appropriate sections, Withdraw che rappets through the top, taking care to mark them for subsequent reassembly In the same positions Remove the inlet camshaft centre bearing Inspection cover and the bearing ser screw from the right-hand side of the block Unscrew and remove the setscrews locating the camshaft front bearings and withdraw the camshafts and bearings. The inlet camshaft centre bearing ix in two halves dowelled together ; these may be collected as the shaft Is removed, through che inspection cover. The rear camshafe bearings can be withdrawn after the retaining set screws are removed, ABSLNINOUHOD oF MOOT UWHONTTAD > —@ = E Z ) 9988 aNV aSVONNVED ~ “a: pf. x 5 zy = 2 | in A li 3 \, 4 aes) (4 iy a 0; wag) fe-ade> Butinag ule yeusquero—ord ids ede ysnog weal yeusyeE—aMy penapp eps “es Buys asian pur 2H0.) yeusquED—pMIs doy 2urBus—fursUNOHY “peg duurd os 2019 0) dune Suds campetag aseoqee> Suds —seyseHA, BF caataeeig eI —IN “Ly sayneaug seeaquei>—odtd pe kpoR “9p csanos woody seqsure—faude ‘sohoo Nonzedsu 38HUND—WADE 29S “Hy spony ota Bune suudy— meng te upsalpr cweulp—9ury “Ip syog rowed ownudp—fulide—sayseay “OF 990) Jo sO E ‘ned youowin ee vanedg osmyuE—pmag “Z shoo dnd yo—pmas 4 Bununaus suitue—pms ‘suoigs—Fusno4 |ae—ps_ 91 Buoe—Zunsnoy y26—pms ‘sy uci pray mpuo—pais. 8 *% * s * ‘* % 4 4A THE ENG Section A,24 REMOVING A PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD Remove the cylinder head and sump as detailed In Sections A and A.15. Tap upthe locking tabs and remove the big-end bolts and caps, Push the assemblies up through the bores and remove from the engine Nate that the caps and rods must be replaced im the bores from which they are removed, and that they are not marked. The pistons, however, are marked with the number of the bore and the word “ Front” so that vhey say be refitted to the bores correctly. E Section A.25 REMOVING PISTON RINGS WF no special piston ring remover is available, use 2 piece of thin steel such as a sultably ground hacksaw blade, or disused -020 in. (:50 mm.) feeler gauge. Raise one end of the ring and Insert the steel strip between ring and piston, Rotate the strip round the piston, applying slight upwards pressure to the ralsed portion of the ring, until It rests on the land above the ring groove. It can then be eased off the piston. Do not remove the piston rings downwards over the skirt of the piston. Before fitting new piston rings the gracves in the piston must be scraped clean of any carbon deposit, taking care not to remove any metal, since play between the ring and the groove reduces gas tightness and produces a pumping action leading to excessive oll consumption. There must be no play between the rings and their grooves but they must nevertheless be free to move without restriction. Important.—New ringsshould be tested in the cylinder bore in order to check for correct clearance ot the ends. To do this effectively the piston should be inserted proximately | In, (25 cm.) down the cylinder and each ‘ing then pushed down’ on to the top of the piston and held there in order to keep the ring square with the bore, The end gop should be between 003 in. and O14 jn. (28 mm, and “35 mn.) section FITTING A GUDGEON PIN AND REPLACING A PISTON The gudgeon pin s @ pushsfit in the small end bush and alight drive-in the piston at room temperature. Support the piston while driving in the gudgeon pin Als so that t's nat damaged, and fit only circlips in good condition, making sure that they are fully seated in the grooves. Use 2 piston ring compressor when entering the assembly in the bore, Section A.27 REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT Take out the engine unit ax described in Section Ald, Drain and remove the sump as Indicated in Section Al. Take off the gearbox: (See Section F.l.) fig. 5. Tre split sealing plate Remove che flywheel and clutch as described in Sections A29 and 4.30. Disconnect the connecting rods from the — (©) Gaps in plugs coo wide or too close, (0) Plugs olfed up. (6) Plug insulators damaged, or excessively diny. If the coll gives a good Fp As ‘A general view of the erankeate, oll pump, ete 3. If poor spark at coll, check — (¢) Low-tention or hightension leads from coll to distributor loose or corroded. (t) Distributor points dirty. worn oF out of adjustment. (¢) Carbon brush not making contact (@), Rotor cracked. (¢) Fauley condenser (substitute a condenser known ¢o be In order). (f) Faulty coil (substitute a coil Known to beln order).4. Check the carbureceers for fuel tupply. IF ne fuel in the float-chambers, check — (@) Functioning of the fuel pump. (8) Air leak in pipe line, Indieaced by rapid action of the pump. (c) Float-chamber needles sticking. 5. If fuel Is Peaching the flose-chambers, check — (2) For choked jets, (&) Water in the fusl, (6) Dirt in the carburetters: (d)_ Ale leak in Induction system, (¢). Check adjustment of carburetter controls If engine stort, but runs erratically A. Check the following ignition points:— |. Leese high-tension leads to sparking plugs. 2. Incorrect setting of plug points. 3. Damaged plug or moisture on plugs. A. Leoie connection on battery or in ignition revit. Faulty high-tension leads, 6. Batcery charge low. 7. Battery connections faulty. 8. Defective contact breaker. 9. Defective distributor 10, Faulty condenser. B. Check the following earburetter polnts:— 1. Water in float-chambers, 2. Choked filters in carburetters or fuel pump, Indicated by slow pumping of fuel pump. 3. Action of fuel pump. Suspect IF sluggish, 4. Jet partially choked, 5. Carburetter or carburetters, set too rich, Indicated by sooty exhaust, 6. Vents on fuel tank filer caps choked, 7. Obstruction fuel feed Fi 8. Air leak into induction system. . Check the following mechaniea! poines:— Sticking valves. Incorrect valve clearance. Burnt or broken valves. Incorrect valve timing. Incorrect ignition timing. Broken or weak valve spring. Valve guides worn, eausing alr leaks. Cylinder head gasket for leaks. Back pressure due to damaged exhaust system, PEN Eee ____THE ENGINE A Ifengine:sterts and stops A. Cheek the following igaition points, — [Loose low-tension leads 2. Loose distributor clamp screw. 3. Faulty ignition switch contact. B. Check the following carburetter points — Incorrect satting of carburetter controls. Blocked fvel pipe. Water in flost-chambers. Sticking needle valve Fuel pump falling to function regularly. Air teak inco fuel line. Fual level low in tank, PRaeee Pengine will at idle or run slowly ‘A. Check the following carburetter points:— J. Throttle stop screws incorrectly set. 2. Hand throttle control requires adjustment. 4. Throttle controls incorrectly at. 4. Weak mixcure or over-rich mixture. 5. Faulty functioning of fuel pump. B. Check the following mechanieal points:— (Sticking valves 2 Incorrect valve tappet clearance. 3. Airleak in induetion system. 4, Burt or broken valves, indicated by lost of compression. 5. Broken valve spring. 6 Damaged eylinder head or gasker. C. Check the following ignition poines— |. Loose highstension leads. 2 Incorrect secting.of plug points 3, Damaged plugs or moisture on plugs. 4. Loose connections on battery of in ignition circuit, 5. Faulty high-tension leads. 6. Battery charge low. 7. Battery connections faulty. 8. Defective contact breaker, or burnt points. 9. Defective distributor. 10. Defective condenser. Engine foils to lve full power ‘A. Check the following carburetter points-— |. Faulty or insuficlent fuel sopply. 2. Air leaks in induction pipe or fuel pipe. 3. Partly choked jet or jets. Al‘2ypuey Tunseae—atuny pvt 9p)95) nu aye UNS ‘su0H—Ho eyoqULD eas Bupsrag seas —aeranp soy, (p28) Ajqutasse—Bupreuue>—poy Aoqind yrqeyues—oany -sysng UysWED 1U0H)—s9qseA OT ‘yepquE—Sutuin—oourn, "yaar —Rujasa 20904 eye toy, pa) pos Supaouses—siojdwon Bupedg “3)0q pos Buppouues—sayeem ge uo.) yenrune—aennge—oaeie eneyie—ajeysue) = aar—ayeysweD Sygate dennypeo—seasturag, apysire yeyxo—enue Zoey yest Hepa —awEH} Suu apqeu ove FuuEg Dyes 30)u—MOHp BUG cnssn|pe—yoRs ‘uid vootpnt—a ‘yaypese sodunp wontigys weu>—wds 385 ped zadwep uopesgy ureie—39A) vondasag wondeeg on ‘odessa [ (WNYSLNI) SLNINOdWOO JNION3 3HL OL AIHA THE ENGINE. Check the following mechsnical points: Incorrect valve tappet clearance. Burnt valve or badly seating valve. Cylinder head stud nuts not tight. Damaged cylinder head gasker. Valve timing incorrect. Broken or weak valve spring. Excessive carbon deposit. Excessively worn pistons and cylinders. SN OREN Check the following ignition poines:>— lgnicion retarded too far. High-tension teads shorting, or loose. Dirty sparking plugs. Sparking plug points incorrectly set, Contact breaker points Incorrectly set. Contact breaker points pitted. , Faulty coil. Faulty condenser, 9. Low-tension connection or leads fauley. 10. Battery run down or faulty. 2 Engine knocks Check the following — 1. Ignition timing too far advanced, 2, Excessive carbon deposit. 3. Fuel unsuitable or mixture weak, 4. Loose or worn bearings or pistons. S. Defective or unsuitable plugs. 6. Yalve timing incorrect or tappet clearance incorrect. Engine backfires A, ‘Check the following ignition points:— 1, High-tension cables defective or connections loose, 2. High-tension leads incorrectly fitted, 3, Low-tension wiring defective or connections loose. 4, Switch contact faulty. 5, Distributor gap mcorrect or points pitted or dirty. 6. Contact breaker arm sticking or defective, 7. Distributor cover cracked or loose. B. Distributor not correctly timed. 9. Rotor carbon brush pick-up defective or worn. 10. Clearance between rotor arm and distributor studs excessive. H1. Coll defective or wet. 12. Defective condenser. 13. Plugs overheated, unsuitable, or points In- correctly set. AD B. Check the following carburation points: — . Jets choked or restricted. . Jets Incorrectly set. causing weak mixture. Water in fuel. . Choked fuel filters. . Inlet manfold joint leaking, or manifold cracked, 6. Air cleaner passages blocked. 7. Engine running temperature too cold. 8. Throttle not closing completely (indicated by engine backfiring when proceeding downhill with throttle shut). C. Check the following mectanical points:— |. Valve timing incorrect. Valve tappet clearance incorrectly set. Valve sticking. Valve seats pitted or faulty. Valve spring weak or broken, Valve guides excessively worn, causing abr leaks. 7. Excessive carbon deposit, Section A.33 PISTON SIZES AND CYLINDER BORES Ie is necessary to fit new pistons by selective assembly, and to facilitate this the pistons are marked lon their crowns with identification figures which must correspond with those of the cylinders to which they are fitted. The actual bore dimensions of each cylinder are stamped on the top face of the cylinder block on the frone right-hand corner by the appropriate symbol :— S.T.D., Indleating that the cylinder bore is of stindard diameter, i.e. possesses an actual diameter of 31683 in, (80:5 mm.), +0005, indicating that the eylinder bore is oversize to the extent of +0005 in., and thus possesies an actual élmension of 3-1698 in. (80-5129 mn.). +00}, Indicating that the cylinder bore Is oversize to the extent of +00) in. and thus possesses an aetual élmension of 31703 in. (80°525 mm.). ++:0015, indicating that the cylinder bore Is oversize to the extent of +0015 in. and thus possesses an actual dimension of 1708 in. (80-5363 mm.). The pistons are marked with the actual cylinder bore size, the requisite running clear- ance being allowed for in the machining. Thus those marked +001 in. should be fitted to bores marked +001 in, and so on throughout. the range covered.When the cylinder head is removed and the plstons withérawn, the cylinder bores should be measured for wear. Indication that a rebare of the cylinders Is necessary Is glven by general loss of performance. oiling up, and poor compression, and i confirmed by measurement of the bores. Rebores: Four ranges of rebore sizes are provided and cylinders must only be rebored to one of these sizes © ensure the supply of the correct pistons ‘To provide the normal machining tolerance, oversize pistons are availble which are ‘0005 In. -OD1 in, and 0015 in, (125 mm., 025 mm. and ‘0375 mm.) larger in diameter than the standard rebore sizes. The four standard oversizes for rebores are :— +010 in, (25 mm.) [actual bore 31793). (20°75 mm.) +020 in. (‘50 mm.) [actual bore 311893 in. (81 mm.)} +030 in.(75 mm.) [actual bore3:1993 in. (81/25 mm.)] ‘040 in, (1-00 mm.) fsctual bore 32093 in, (61'S mm. )] and oversize pistons are available for the above rebore sizes in the following range : +0005 Jina, +:0010 in, +0015 In. There are thus twenty piston sizes avallable for replacement purposes as tabulated. Section A334 FITTING AN ENGINE STEADY If udder Is experienced in aking up the drive, |e ‘can be overcome by the addition of an engine steady between the rocker cover, and an improved rear engine mounting bracket The parts required are listed on page A.24. Disconnect the battery, remove the blower motor and the windshield wiper motor. Remove the four rear inner rocker cover bolts. ‘Offer up the bracket to the valance and position it 50 that the rearmost holes are 1h In. (384 mm.) forward of the face of the dash, then drill chrough the valance in six places with a 4h in. ¢rill using the bracket asa lie. Assemble the tie-rod with rubber bushes, cup washers and nuts to the engine steady bracket. The rubber bushes must not be unduly compressed. Remove the plug lead to number 4 cylinder and fe the bracket and tie-red assembly to the rocker cover using new rocker cover boles. ‘Clean away sound proofing material around the holes on the underside of the valance. Thread on to the tie-rod, the locknut, plain nut, cup washer and rubber bush Jn that order, Insert the tle-rod through the hole (n the valance bracket and STANDARD eerie Piston Marking Bore Size | Equivalent To nue andra Bove Tea m, | BOS007 mm. 3.1897 Ins | 80-5108 mm, To nile —-O005 in. bore BEisow In, | BOS29 mm 351702 in. | 86°5231 mm. Teall =-0010 In. bore 31762 In, | 805256 me 34707 In. | 80.8358 om: To suk 0015 In. bore 205389 wm. 1805485 ron, ‘807542 ws 80.7644 min, To wut +105 im bore 31798 in. | 897669 ww, 3.1802 in. | 80-7771 am: To suit DION. bore 3k To wake +-DIS In. bore 31808 in, | 807923 mm, 31812 In. | 804028 mom: Tir i To wale 0285 In, Bare Fie in. 3.1902 ins To aul ) 0210 In. bare 21903. | 31907 vere BI-OS64 mom bore 812622 mm. 812724 mm To san +0308 Wn, bore: 812749 mn. 812851 mm: Tow 50310 in bore 812878 mn 813979 nm. To ral) 0315 in bore 32008 tm, | 813003 mn 32012 n: | 14105 mm. Ach OVERSIZE, 5-040 in. (1-016 em.) To oui, 049 inane 32053 i. | BUSTED mm, 32097 in: | 818264 mim. To sult | 0405 In, Bore 32098 in. | B1EDBS mm. 3.2102 In. | 81-5391 mm, Tole }-O410 In. bore 32103 im, 3.2107 in. Toaute 0415 in. bore F208 in. | 815543 mi, 32/02 in, | 81:5645 mm ABFig, AZ. ‘The steambly of che engine stesdy cesbar and brackets bole the bracket co the valance using the bolts, washers ané reinforcing piece as shown in Fig. A. Fit the remaining rubbers. cup, etc, taking care that the engine Is not displaced and that the tie-rod Is neither In tension nor compression. Check that there ie at feast $ In. (3:18 mm.) between the end of the tle-rod and the valance, and adjust the tie-rod as necessary. ‘Modified rear engine mounting Support the weight of the power unit at the rear and remove the gearbox mounting centre bolt. Lower the tension bar anchorage ané gearbox mounting bracket complete and remove the bracket. Modify the engine mounsing bracket to give the dimension If jn. as shown in Fig. A.B and reassemble the bracket to the torsion bar anchorage. Position the spacing washers on the protruding Inner sleeve of the gesrbox mouating bush and reassemble the bracket and torsion bar anchorage to the ear. Finally, remove the lateral stay connecting the gearbox extension ta the frame brace PARTS REQUIRED Description Part No. Bracket, engine steady (engine) ACB.S7I7 Bracket, engine steady (valance) ACBS723 Rocker cover studs (4) 99/2050 Rubber bush (4) ‘ACBS730T Cup washer (f) Acas72T Aw Description Part No, Nor, 7" ULNLE, plain (4) FNZ.105 Nut, |" ULNE, lock (4) sue NZ. 108 Serews. [PUN Si" (6). HZS.0405 Nuts, A ULN.F,, plain (6)... FNZ.104 Washers. 2". spring (6). LWZ..104 Washers. 17x] (2) (nearest dash) PWZ.204 Reinforcing piece (I) ACB.ST23 Fp AB. “The modified rear powersnte mounting. Section A.35 LARGER CAPACITY OIL PUMP To Improve oil pressure, an oll pump with larger capacity gears was Introduced at Engine No. 1762 ‘The pump, as an assembly, lx interchangeable with earlier models. Section A.36 ENGINE REVOLUTION INDICATOR From Engine No.2920, a revolution indicator (Part No, AC85789) to suit one-third engine speed in place of halfengine speed, is introduced. ‘A modified drive unit (Part No. AEBIBS), which |s 2 to 3 ratio In place of | to | ratio, is fitted to the ‘engine. The new drive unit has a modified cable érive which \s now similar to a speedometer cable drive, that is, thas a cquare hole in place of the slotted drive. This requires the fitting of a new drive cable (Part No. ACB579 R.H.D, of ACBS/91 LH.D. Earlier models may be fitted with these modified parts, Pathinder, sue (H& &) 953027 /85