Enhancement
Performance
Crodafos CES ™ Skin Care & Sun Care
CRodafos CES Creates Very Water Resistant Sunscreens Product Category: Emulsifier,
60 In-Vivo testing by an independent laboratory Conditioning Agent
50 found CRODAFOS CES emulsions provide
40 INCI Name: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl
In-Vivo
30
excellent resistance to wash-off and maintains Phosphate (and) Ceteth-10 Phosphate
SPF
20 85% of the static SPF value after 80 minutes
10 of immersion time in water. This formulation Physical Form: Pastilles
0
Static 40 Mins 80 Mins complies with the new FDA guidelines and can Use Levels: 5.0 - 8.0%
Water Resistant Test Protocol claim SPF 40 Broad Spectrum and Very Water
Resistant (80mins). Formulation on reverse. US Patent: 6,117,915
Major Benefits: n Complete emulsifying system n Extreme pH tolerance Product Datasheet: DS-151
n Naturally substantive to the skin n Cost effective
n Versatility in formulating n Enhances sunscreen performance
Formulations:
n The Height of Resistance SPF 40
Unique Features: n Forms stable, well-dispersed systems n AHA ready-no need to adjust pH
n Mild and cationic compatible n Targeted deposition of actives Broad Spectrum Very Water Resistant
n Easy to use pastilles n EINECS approved Sunscreen SC-594
n Age Prevention Cream SC-432
Applications: n Sunscreens n Treatment/anti-aging products n Color cosmetics
n Therapeutic skin care products n Depilatories
Innovation you can build on™
Micrographs of Multilayer Lamellar Structure
Multilayer lamellar vesicles, structures patterned after the lipid bilayer in CRodafos CES Effectively Delivers Actives
the skin, are widely used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications as
delivery systems for active ingredients. Their unique structure traps the
Wax emulsified Sunscreen
actives and then releases them when applied to the skin. In test studies, a sunscreen emulsified with
formulation containing CRODAFOS CES was shown to have these important CRODAFOS CES
structures where the formulation containing only an emulsifying wax did
not. CRODAFOS CES was shown to play a key role in the formation of these
structures as seen in the study photos to the right.
The Height of Resistance SPF 40 Broad SC-594
Spectrum Very Water Resistant Sunscreen
Localization of Actives
Ingredients %
An in vitro study was conducted by Croda Inc in conjunction with the
Part A
Department of Pharmacology and Toxicology at Rutgers University
Water 50.40
and UMDNJ - Robert Wood Johnson to determine the percutaneous
absorption of actives for skin via CRODAFOS CES. Sodium Hydroxide 20% Solution 0.25
Disodium EDTA 0.10
Hydrocortisone was chosen as the active, as it is a widely used OTC topical Part B
agent that is known to easily penetrate the skin. It was incorporated into 2
Glycerin 4.00
simple fomulations: one containing Crodafos CES and one containing a
Methylparaben 0.20
typical emulsifying system. It was applied to metabolically inactive human
Part C
skin in Franz cell finite dosing chambers. The radioactivity counts of the test
samples were measured after 24, 48 and 72 hours in order to determine CRODAFOS CES (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate (and) 5.50
Ceteth-10 Phosphate)
the residence time of the hydrocortisone active in the epidermis and the
migration through the epidermis. Results showed that adding Crodafos CES Part D
to a formulation helps to carry the active into the epidermis, while localizing CRODACOL™ S95 (Stearyl Alcohol) 0.75
it for maximum benefit. CROMOLLIENT™ ESP (Tris(PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Citrate) 5.00
CRODAMOL™ SFX (PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Ethylhexanoate) 5.00
CRodafos CES Controls the Migration of Actives Homosalate 10.00
40000 4000 Octisalate 5.00
35000 3500 Octocrylene 2.80
Oxybenzone 6.00
30000 3000
Avobenzone 3.00
25000 2500 Part E
Counts
per 20000 2000 OPTASENSE™ RMA IS (Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1.00
Minute (and) Paraffinum Liquidum (and) Tri(PPG-3 Myristyl Ether) Citrate (and) Sorbitan
15000 1500 Laurate (and) Trideceth-6)
Part F
10000 1000
Phenoxyethanol 1.00
5000 500
0 0 Suppliers: 1. Croda
Residence in Epidermis Migration Through Skin pH: 6.14; Viscosity: 112,000 cps (Brookfield HAT spindle RVTC, 10rpm, at RT)
After 24 Hours After 24 Hours In-Vivo static SPF 48.72, Water Resistant (40 minutes) SPF = 42.40, Very Water Resistant (80 minutes)
SPF= 41.20 (5 person panel, AMA Labs, New City, NY)
Critical Wavelength=378 nm
Crodafos CES Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol
Procedure: Combine Part A ingredients, mixing with gentle agitation and begin heating to
After 24 hours, the cream containing Crodafos CES slowed the 75-80°C. Combine and mix Part B ingredients and add to Part A with mixing. Add Part C to
Part A/B and mix at 75-80°C for 10 minutes or until completely homogeneous. Separately
migration of cortisol into the epidermis by 60% and decreased the combine Part D ingredients and heat to 75-80°C with mixing. Add Part D to part A/B/C at
migration of cortisol through the skin by 91%. 75-80ºC with high speed mixing. Homogenize at 6,000 rpm or higher for 3-5 minutes or
until completely homogeneous. Return to mixing and add Part E and Part F ingredients when
batch temperature is 45C. Continue to mix until batch reaches room temperature.
Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made.
Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No
representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness
for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs.
Any trademarks identified herein are trademarks of the Croda group of companies. ©2012 Croda Inc
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