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Barbara J. Goldberg, MS, RN, CNS
Assistant Professor
Onondaga Community College
Syracuse, New York

Judith E. Gunther, MSN, RN

Associate Professor of Nursing
Northern Virginia Community College
Springfield, Virginia

Lois Harder, RN
Senior Lecturer
West Virginia University
Morgantown, West Virginia

Tina L. Kinney, MSN, RNC, FNP-BC, WHNP-BC

Nursing Instructor
Lutheran School of Nursing
St. Louis, Missouri

Lynne S. Mann, MN, RN, CNE

Assistant Professor
Charleston Southern University
Charleston, South Carolina

J. Susan G. Van Wye, MSN, RN, ARNP, CPNP

Adjunct Nursing Faculty
Kirkwood Community College
Cedar Rapids, Iowa

8
The seventh edition of Psychiatric–Mental Health Nursing maintains a strong student focus, presenting sound
nursing theory, therapeutic modalities, and clinical applications across the treatment continuum. The chapters
are short, and the writing style is direct in order to facilitate reading comprehension and student learning.
This text uses the nursing process framework and emphasizes therapeutic communication with examples
and pharmacology throughout. Interventions focus on all aspects of client care, including communication,
client and family education, and community resources, as well as their practical application in various clinical
settings.
In this edition, all DSM-5 content has been updated, as well as the Best Practice boxes, to highlight current
evidence-based practice. New special features include Concept Mastery Alerts, which clarify important
concepts that are essential to students’ learning, and Watch and Learn icons that alert students to important
video content available on . Cultural and Elder Considerations have special headings to help call
attention to this important content. The nursing process sections have a new design to help highlight this
content as well.

ORGANIZATION OF THE TEXT

Unit 1: Current Theories and Practice provides a strong foundation for students. It addresses current issues in
psychiatric nursing as well as the many treatment settings in which nurses encounter clients. It thoroughly
discusses neurobiologic theories, psychopharmacology, and psychosocial theories and therapy as a basis for
understanding mental illness and its treatment.

Unit 2: Building the Nurse–Client Relationship presents the basic elements essential to the practice of mental
health nursing. Chapters on therapeutic relationships and therapeutic communication prepare students to
begin working with clients both in mental health settings and in all other areas of nursing practice. The
chapter on the client’s response to illness provides a framework for understanding the individual client. An
entire chapter is devoted to assessment, emphasizing its importance in nursing.

Unit 3: Current Social and Emotional Concerns covers topics that are not exclusive to mental health settings.
These include legal and ethical issues; anger, aggression, and hostility; abuse and violence; and grief and loss.
Nurses in all practice settings find themselves confronted with issues related to these topics. Additionally,
many legal and ethical concerns are interwoven with issues of violence and loss.

Unit 4: Nursing Practice for Psychiatric Disorders covers all the major categories of mental disorders. This
unit has been reorganized to reflect current concepts in mental disorders. New chapters include trauma and

9
stressor-related disorders; obsessive–compulsive disorder and related disorders; somatic symptom disorders;
disruptive disorders; and neurodevelopmental disorders. Each chapter provides current information on
etiology, onset and clinical course, treatment, and nursing care. The chapters are compatible for use with any
medical classification system for mental disorders.

PEDAGOGICAL FEATURES
Psychiatric–Mental Health Nursing incorporates several pedagogical features designed to facilitate student
learning:

• Learning Objectives focus on the students’ reading and study.

• Key Terms identify new terms used in the chapter. Each term is identified in bold and defined in the text.
• Application of the Nursing Process sections, with a special design in this edition, highlight the assessment
framework presented in Chapter 8 to help students compare and contrast various disorders more easily.
• Critical Thinking Questions stimulate students’ thinking about current dilemmas and issues in mental
health.
• Key Points summarize chapter content to reinforce important concepts.
• Chapter Study Guides provide workbook-style questions for students to test their knowledge and
understanding of each chapter.

SPECIAL FEATURES
• Clinical Vignettes, provided for each major disorder discussed in the text, “paint a picture” of a client
dealing with the disorder to enhance understanding.
• Nursing Care Plans demonstrate a sample plan of care for a client with a specific disorder.
• Drug Alerts highlight essential points about psychotropic drugs.
• Warning boxes are the FDA black box drug warnings for specific medications.
• Cultural Considerations sections highlight diversity in client care.
• Elder Considerations sections highlight the key considerations for a growing older adult population.
• Therapeutic dialogues give specific examples of the nurse–client interaction to promote therapeutic
communication skills.
• Client/Family Education boxes provide information that helps strengthen students’ roles as educators.
• Nursing Interventions provide a summary of key interventions for the specific disorder.
• DSM-5 Diagnostic Criteria boxes include specific diagnostic information for the disorder.
• Best Practices boxes highlight current evidence-based practice and future directions for research on a wide
variety of practice issues.
• Self-Awareness features encourage students to reflect on themselves, their emotions, and their attitudes as a
way to foster both personal and professional development.
• Concept Mastery Alerts clarify important concepts that are essential to students’ learning and practice.
• Watch and Learn icons alert the reader to important resources available on to enhance student
understanding of the topic.

10
ANCILLARY PACKAGE FOR THE SEVENTH EDITION
Instructor Resources
The Instructor Resources are available online at http://thepoint.lww.com/Videbeck7e for instructors who
adopt Psychiatric–Mental Health Nursing. Information and activities that will help you engage your students
throughout the semester include:

• PowerPoint Slides
• Image Bank
• Test Generator
• Pre-Lecture Quizzes
• Discussion Topics
• Written, Group, Clinical, and Web Assignments
• Guided Lecture Notes
• Case Studies

Student Resources
Students who purchase a new copy of Psychiatric–Mental Health Nursing gain access to the following learning
tools on using the access code in the front of their book:

• , highlighting films depicting individuals with mental health disorders, provide students the
opportunity to approach nursing care related to mental health and illness in a novel way.
• NCLEX-Style Review Questions help students review important concepts and practice for the NCLEX
examination.
• Journal Articles offer access to current research available in Wolters Kluwer journals.
• Online video series, Lippincott Theory to Practice Video Series includes videos of true-to-life clients
displaying mental health disorders, allowing students to gain experience and a deeper understanding of
these patients.
• Internet Resources provide relevant weblinks to further explore chapter content.

Practice Makes Perfect, and This Is the Perfect Practice.

PrepU is an adaptive learning system designed to improve students’ competency and mastery and provide
instructors with real-time analysis of their students’ knowledge at both a class and individual student level.
PrepU demonstrates formative assessment—it determines what students know as they are learning, and
focuses them on what they are struggling with, so they don’t spend time on what they already know. Feedback
is immediate and remediates students back to this specific text, so they know where to get help in
understanding a concept.

Adaptive and Personalized

No student has the same experience—PrepU recognizes when a student has reached “mastery” of a concept

11
before moving him/her on to higher levels of learning. This will be a different experience for each student
based on the number of questions he/she answers and whether he/she answers them correctly. Each question
is also “normed” by all students in PrepU around the country—how every student answers a specific question
generates the difficulty level of each question in the system. This adaptive experience allows students to
practice at their own pace and study much more effectively.

Personalized Reports
Students get individual feedback about their performance, and instructors can track class statistics to gauge the
level of understanding. Both get a window into performance to help identify areas for remediation. Instructors
can access the average mastery level of the class, students’ strengths and weaknesses, and how often students
use PrepU. Students can see their own progress charts showing strengths and weaknesses—so they can
continue quizzing in areas where they are weaker.

Mobile Optimized
Students can study anytime, anywhere with PrepU, as it is mobile optimized. More convenience equals more
quizzing and more practice for students!
There is a PrepU resource available with this book! For more information, visit
http://thepoint.lww.com/PrepU.

This leading content is also incorporated into Lippincott CoursePoint, a dynamic learning solution that
integrates this book’s curriculum, adaptive learning tools, real-time data reporting, and the latest evidence-
based practice content into one powerful student learning solution. Lippincott CoursePoint improves the
nursing students’ critical thinking and clinical reasoning skills to prepare them for practice. Learn more at
www.NursingEducationSuccess.com/CoursePoint.

12
Many years of teaching and practice have shaped my teaching efforts and this textbook.
Students provide feedback and ask ever-changing questions that guide me to keep this text useful, easy to
read and understand, and focused on student learning. Students also help keep me up to date, so the text can
stay relevant to their needs. I continue to work with students in simulation lab experiences as nursing
education evolves with advances in technology.
I want to thank the people at Wolters Kluwer for their valuable assistance in making this textbook a reality.
Their contributions to its success are greatly appreciated. I thank Natasha McIntyre, Dan Reilly, Zach
Shapiro, Helen Kogut, and Cynthia Rudy for a job well done once again.
My friends continue to listen, support, and encourage my efforts in all endeavors. My brother and his
family provide love and support in this endeavor, as well as in the journey of life. I am truly fortunate and
grateful.

13
Unit 1
Current Theories and Practice
1. Foundations of Psychiatric–Mental Health Nursing
Mental Health and Mental Illness
Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders
Historical Perspectives of the Treatment of Mental Illness
Mental Illness in the 21st Century
Cultural Considerations
Psychiatric Nursing Practice
2. Neurobiologic Theories and Psychopharmacology
The Nervous System and How it Works
Brain Imaging Techniques
Neurobiologic Causes of Mental Illness
The Nurse’s Role in Research and Education
Psychopharmacology
Cultural Considerations
3. Psychosocial Theories and Therapy
Psychosocial Theories
Cultural Considerations
Treatment Modalities
The Nurse and Psychosocial Interventions
4. Treatment Settings and Therapeutic Programs
Treatment Settings
Psychiatric Rehabilitation and Recovery
Special Populations of Clients with Mental Illness
Interdisciplinary Team
Psychosocial Nursing in Public Health and Home Care

Unit 2
Building the Nurse–Client Relationship

14
 5. Therapeutic Relationships
Components of a Therapeutic Relationship
Types of Relationships
Establishing the Therapeutic Relationship
Avoiding Behaviors that Diminish the Therapeutic Relationship
Roles of the Nurse in a Therapeutic Relationship
6. Therapeutic Communication
What is Therapeutic Communication?
Verbal Communication Skills
Nonverbal Communication Skills
Understanding the Meaning of Communication
Understanding Context
Understanding Spirituality
Cultural Considerations
The Therapeutic Communication Session
Assertive Communication
Community-Based Care
7. Client’s Response to Illness
Individual Factors
Interpersonal Factors
Cultural Factors
8. Assessment
Factors Influencing Assessment
How to Conduct the Interview
Content of the Assessment
Assessment of Suicide or Harm Toward Others
Data Analysis

Unit 3
Current Social and Emotional Concerns

9. Legal and Ethical Issues

Legal Considerations
Ethical Issues

10. Grief and Loss

Types of Losses
The Grieving Process
Dimensions of Grieving
Cultural Considerations

15
 Disenfranchised Grief
Complicated Grieving
Application of the Nursing Process

11. Anger, Hostility, and Aggression

Onset and Clinical Course
Related Disorders
Etiology
Cultural Considerations
Treatment
Application of the Nursing Process
Workplace Hostility
Community-Based Care

12. Abuse and Violence

Clinical Picture of Abuse and Violence
Characteristics of Violent Families
Cultural Considerations
Intimate Partner Violence
Child Abuse
Elder Abuse
Rape and Sexual Assault
Community Violence

Unit 4
Nursing Practice for Psychiatric Disorders
13. Trauma and Stressor-Related Disorders
Posttraumatic Stress Disorder
Etiology
Cultural Considerations
Treatment
Elder Considerations
Community-Based Care
Mental Health Promotion
Application of the Nursing Process

14. Anxiety and Anxiety Disorders

Anxiety as a Response to Stress
Overview of Anxiety Disorders
Incidence

16
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 Onset and Clinical Course
Related Disorders
Etiology
Cultural Considerations
Treatment
Elder Considerations
Community-Based Care
Mental Health Promotion
Panic Disorder
Application of the Nursing Process: Panic Disorder
Phobias
Generalized Anxiety Disorder

15. Obsessive–Compulsive and Related Disorders

Obsessive–Compulsive Disorder
Cultural Considerations
Application of the Nursing Process
Elder Considerations

16. Schizophrenia
Clinical Course
Related Disorders
Etiology
Cultural Considerations
Treatment
Application of the Nursing Process
Elder Considerations
Community-Based Care
Mental Health Promotion

17. Mood Disorders and Suicide

Categories of Mood Disorders
Related Disorders
Etiology
Cultural Considerations
Major Depressive Disorder
Application of the Nursing Process: Depression
Bipolar Disorder
Application of the Nursing Process: Bipolar Disorder

17
 Suicide
Elder Considerations
Community-Based Care
Mental Health Promotion

18. Personality Disorders

Personality Disorders
Onset and Clinical Course
Etiology
Cultural Considerations
Treatment
Paranoid Personality Disorder
Schizoid Personality Disorder
Schizotypal Personality Disorder
Antisocial Personality Disorder
Application of the Nursing Process: Antisocial Personality Disorder
Borderline Personality Disorder
Application of the Nursing Process: Borderline Personality Disorder
Histrionic Personality Disorder
Narcissistic Personality Disorder
Avoidant Personality Disorder
Dependent Personality Disorder
Obsessive–Compulsive Personality Disorder
Elder Considerations
Community-Based Care
Mental Health Promotion

19. Addiction
Types of Substance Abuse
Onset and Clinical Course
Related Disorders
Etiology
Cultural Considerations
Types of Substances and Treatment
Treatment and Prognosis
Application of the Nursing Process
Elder Considerations
Community-Based Care
Mental Health Promotion

18
 Substance Abuse in Health Professionals

20. Eating Disorders

Overview of Eating Disorders
Categories of Eating Disorders
Etiology
Cultural Considerations
Anorexia Nervosa
Bulimia
Application of the Nursing Process
Community-Based Care
Mental Health Promotion

21. Somatic Symptom Illnesses

Overview of Somatic Symptom Illnesses
Onset and Clinical Course
Related Disorders
Etiology
Cultural Considerations
Application of the Nursing Process
Community-Based Care
Mental Health Promotion

22. Neurodevelopmental Disorders

Autism Spectrum Disorder
Related Disorders
Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder
Cultural Considerations
Application of the Nursing Process: Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder
Mental Health Promotion

23. Disruptive Behavior Disorders

Related Disorders
Oppositional Defiant Disorder
Intermittent Explosive Disorder
Conduct Disorder
Related Problems
Cultural Considerations
Application of the Nursing Process: Conduct Disorder
Elder Considerations

19
 Community-Based Care
Mental Health Promotion

24. Cognitive Disorders

Delirium
Cultural Considerations
Application of the Nursing Process: Delirium
Community-Based Care
Dementia
Related Disorders
Cultural Considerations
Application of the Nursing Process: Dementia
Community-Based Care
Mental Health Promotion
Role of the Caregiver

Answers to Chapter Study Guides

Appendix A
Disorders of Sleep and Wakefulness

Appendix B
Sexual Dysfunctions and Gender Dysphoria

Appendix C
Drug Classification Under the Controlled Substances Act

Appendix D
Canadian Drug Trade Names

Appendix E
Mexican Drug Trade Names

Glossary of Key Terms

Index

20
 Key Terms
• asylum
• boarding
• case management
• deinstitutionalization
• Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (DSM-5)
• managed care
• managed care organizations

• mental health
• mental illness

• phenomena of concern
• psychotropic drugs

• self-awareness

• standards of care
• utilization review firms

Learning Objectives
After reading this chapter, you should be able to:

1. Describe characteristics of mental health and mental illness.

2. Discuss the purpose and use of the American Psychiatric Association’s Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of

21
 Mental Disorders (DSM-5).

3. Identify important historical landmarks in psychiatric care.

4. Discuss current trends in the treatment of people with mental illness.

5. Discuss the American Nurses Association (ANA) standards of practice for psychiatric–mental health
nursing.

6. Describe common student concerns about psychiatric nursing.

AS YOU BEGIN THE STUDY OF psychiatric–mental health nursing, you may be excited, uncertain, and even
somewhat anxious. The field of mental health often seems a little unfamiliar or mysterious, making it hard to
imagine what the experience will be like or what nurses do in this area. This chapter addresses these concerns
and others by providing an overview of the history of mental illness, advances in treatment, current issues in
mental health, and the role of the psychiatric nurse.

MENTAL HEALTH AND MENTAL ILLNESS

Mental health and mental illness are difficult to define precisely. People who can carry out their roles in
society and whose behavior is appropriate and adaptive are viewed as healthy. Conversely, those who fail to
fulfill roles and carry out responsibilities or whose behavior is inappropriate are viewed as ill. The culture of
any society strongly influences its values and beliefs, and this, in turn, affects how that society defines health
and illness. What one society may view as acceptable and appropriate, another society may see as maladaptive
and inappropriate.

Mental Health
The World Health Organization defines health as a state of complete physical, mental, and social wellness,
not merely the absence of disease or infirmity. This definition emphasizes health as a positive state of well-
being. People in a state of emotional, physical, and social well-being fulfill life responsibilities, function
effectively in daily life, and are satisfied with their interpersonal relationships and themselves.
No single universal definition of mental health exists. Generally, a person’s behavior can provide clues to his
or her mental health. Because each person can have a different view or interpretation of behavior (depending
on his or her values and beliefs), the determination of mental health may be difficult. In most cases, mental
health is a state of emotional, psychological, and social wellness evidenced by satisfying interpersonal
relationships, effective behavior and coping, positive self-concept, and emotional stability.
Mental health has many components, and a wide variety of factors influence it. These factors interact; thus,
a person’s mental health is a dynamic, or ever-changing, state. Factors influencing a person’s mental health
can be categorized as individual, interpersonal, and social/cultural. Individual, or personal, factors include a
person’s biologic makeup, autonomy and independence, self-esteem, capacity for growth, vitality, ability to
find meaning in life, emotional resilience or hardiness, sense of belonging, reality orientation, and coping or
stress management abilities. Interpersonal, or relationship, factors include effective communication, ability to

22
help others, intimacy, and a balance of separateness and connectedness. Social/cultural, or environmental,
factors include a sense of community, access to adequate resources, intolerance of violence, support of diversity
among people, mastery of the environment, and a positive, yet realistic, view of one’s world. Individual,
interpersonal, and social/cultural factors are discussed further in Chapter 7.

Mental Illness
Mental illness includes disorders that affect mood, behavior, and thinking, such as depression, schizophrenia,
anxiety disorders, and addictive disorders. Mental disorders often cause significant distress, impaired
functioning, or both. Individuals experience dissatisfaction with self, relationships, and ineffective coping.
Daily life can seem overwhelming or unbearable. Individuals may believe that their situation is hopeless.
Factors contributing to mental illness can also be viewed within individual, interpersonal, and social/cultural
categories. Individual factors include biologic makeup, intolerable or unrealistic worries or fears, inability to
distinguish reality from fantasy, intolerance of life’s uncertainties, a sense of disharmony in life, and a loss of
meaning in one’s life. Interpersonal factors include ineffective communication, excessive dependency on or
withdrawal from relationships, no sense of belonging, inadequate social support, and loss of emotional control.
Social/cultural factors include lack of resources, violence, homelessness, poverty, an unwarranted negative view
of the world, and discrimination such as stigma, racism, classism, ageism, and sexism.

DIAGNOSTIC AND STATISTICAL MANUAL OF MENTAL

DISORDERS
The Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders, Fifth edition (DSM-5) is a taxonomy published by
the American Psychiatric Association and is revised as needed. The current edition made some major
revisions and was released in 2013. The DSM-5 describes all mental disorders, outlining specific diagnostic
criteria for each based on clinical experience and research. All mental health clinicians who diagnose
psychiatric disorders use this diagnostic taxonomy.
The DSM-5 has three purposes:

• To provide a standardized nomenclature and language for all mental health professionals
• To present defining characteristics or symptoms that differentiate specific diagnoses
• To assist in identifying the underlying causes of disorders

The classification system allows the practitioner to identify all the factors that relate to a person’s condition:

• All major psychiatric disorders such as depression, schizophrenia, anxiety, and substance-related disorders
• Medical conditions that are potentially relevant to understanding or managing the person’s mental disorder
as well as medical conditions that might contribute to understanding the person
• Psychosocial and environmental problems that may affect the diagnosis, treatment, and prognosis of mental
disorders. Included are problems with the primary support group, the social environment, education,
occupation, housing, economics, access to health care, and the legal system.

Although student nurses do not use the DSM-5 to diagnose clients, they will find it a helpful resource to

23
understand the reason for the admission and to begin building knowledge about the nature of psychiatric
illnesses.

HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVES OF THE TREATMENT OF

MENTAL ILLNESS
Ancient Times
People of ancient times believed that any sickness indicated displeasure of the gods and, in fact, was a
punishment for sins and wrongdoing. Those with mental disorders were viewed as being either divine or
demonic, depending on their behavior. Individuals seen as divine were worshipped and adored; those seen as
demonic were ostracized, punished, and sometimes burned at the stake. Later, Aristotle (382–322 BC)

attempted to relate mental disorders to physical disorders and developed his theory that the amounts of blood,
water, and yellow and black bile in the body controlled the emotions. These four substances, or humors,
corresponded with happiness, calmness, anger, and sadness. Imbalances of the four humors were believed to
cause mental disorders; so treatment was aimed at restoring balance through bloodletting, starving, and
purging. Such “treatments” persisted well into the 19th century (Baly, 1982).

Possessed by demons

In early Christian times (1–1000 AD), primitive beliefs and superstitions were strong. All diseases were
again blamed on demons, and the mentally ill were viewed as possessed. Priests performed exorcisms to rid
evil spirits. When that failed, they used more severe and brutal measures, such as incarceration in dungeons,
flogging, and starving.
In England during the Renaissance (1300–1600), people with mental illness were distinguished from
criminals. Those considered harmless were allowed to wander the countryside or live in rural communities,
but the more “dangerous lunatics” were thrown in prison, chained, and starved (Rosenblatt, 1984). In 1547,
the Hospital of St. Mary of Bethlehem was officially declared a hospital for the insane, the first of its kind. By

24
1775, visitors at the institution were charged a fee for the privilege of viewing and ridiculing the inmates, who
were seen as animals, less than human (McMillan, 1997). During this same period in the colonies (later the
United States), the mentally ill were considered evil or possessed and were punished.Witch hunts were
conducted, and offenders were burned at the stake.

Period of Enlightenment and Creation of Mental Institutions

In the 1790s, a period of enlightenment concerning persons with mental illness began. Philippe Pinel in
France and William Tuke in England formulated the concept of asylum as a safe refuge or haven offering
protection at institutions where people had been whipped, beaten, and starved just because they were mentally
ill (Gollaher, 1995). With this movement began the moral treatment of the mentally ill. In the United States,
Dorothea Dix (1802–1887) began a crusade to reform the treatment of mental illness after a visit to Tuke’s
institution in England. She was instrumental in opening 32 state hospitals that offered asylum to the
suffering. Dix believed that society was obligated to those who were mentally ill; she advocated adequate
shelter, nutritious food, and warm clothing (Gollaher, 1995).
The period of enlightenment was short-lived. Within 100 years after establishment of the first asylum, state
hospitals were in trouble. Attendants were accused of abusing the residents, the rural locations of hospitals
were viewed as isolating patients from their families and homes, and the phrase insane asylum took on a
negative connotation.

Sigmund Freud and Treatment of Mental Disorders

The period of scientific study and treatment of mental disorders began with Sigmund Freud (1856–1939) and
others, such as Emil Kraepelin (1856–1926) and Eugen Bleuler (1857–1939). With these men, the study of
psychiatry and the diagnosis and treatment of mental illness started in earnest. Freud challenged society to
view human beings objectively. He studied the mind, its disorders, and their treatment as no one had done
before. Many other theorists built on Freud’s pioneering work (see Chapter 3). Kraepelin began classifying
mental disorders according to their symptoms, and Bleuler coined the term schizophrenia.

Development of Psychopharmacology
A great leap in the treatment of mental illness began in about 1950 with the development of psychotropic
drugs, or drugs used to treat mental illness. Chlorpromazine (Thorazine), an antipsychotic drug, and lithium,
an antimanic agent, were the first drugs to be developed. Over the following 10 years, monoamine oxidase
inhibitor antidepressants; haloperidol (Haldol), an antipsychotic; tricyclic antidepressants; and antianxiety
agents, called benzodiazepines, were introduced. For the first time, drugs actually reduced agitation, psychotic
thinking, and depression. Hospital stays were shortened, and many people became well enough to go home.
The level of noise, chaos, and violence greatly diminished in the hospital setting.

Move toward Community Mental Health

The movement toward treating those with mental illness in less restrictive environments gained momentum in

25
1963 with the enactment of the Community Mental Health Centers Construction Act.
Deinstitutionalization, a deliberate shift from institutional care in state hospitals to community facilities,
began. Community mental health centers served smaller geographic catchment, or service, areas that provided
less restrictive treatment located closer to individuals’ homes, families, and friends. These centers provided
emergency care, inpatient care, outpatient services, partial hospitalization, screening services, and education.
Thus, deinstitutionalization accomplished the release of individuals from long-term stays in state institutions,
the decrease in admissions to hospitals, and the development of community-based services as an alternative to
hospital care.
In addition to deinstitutionalization, federal legislation was passed to provide an income for disabled
persons: Supplemental Security Income (SSI) and Social Security Disability Income (SSDI). This allowed
people with severe and persistent mental illness to be more independent financially and to not rely on family
for money. States were able to spend less money on care of the mentally ill than they had spent when these
individuals were in state hospitals because this program was federally funded. Also, commitment laws changed
in the early 1970s, making it more difficult to commit people for mental health treatment against their will.
This further decreased the state hospital populations and, consequently, the money that states spent on them.

MENTAL ILLNESS IN THE 21ST CENTURY

The Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration (SAMSHA) estimates that more than
18.6% of Americans aged 18 years and older have some form of mental illness—approximately 43.7 million
persons. In the past year, 20.7 million people or 18.6%, had a substance use disorder. Of these, 8.4 million
had co-occurring mental illness and substance use disorder, or dual diagnosis (2015). Furthermore, mental
illness or serious emotional disturbances impair daily activities for an estimated 15 million adults and 4 million
children and adolescents. For example, attention deficit hyperactivity disorder affects 3% to 5% of school-aged
children. More than 10 million children younger than 7 years grow up in homes where at least one parent
suffers from significant mental illness or substance abuse, a situation that hinders the readiness of these
children to start school. The economic burden of mental illness in the United States, including both health-
care costs and lost productivity, exceeds the economic burden caused by all kinds of cancer. Mental disorders
are the leading cause of disability in the United States and Canada for persons 15 to 44 years of age. Yet only
one in four adults and one in five children and adolescents requiring mental health services get the care they
need.
Some believe that deinstitutionalization has had negative as well as positive effects. Although
deinstitutionalization reduced the number of public hospital beds by 80%, the number of admissions to those
beds correspondingly increased by 90%. Such findings have led to the term revolving door effect. Although
people with severe and persistent mental illness have shorter hospital stays, they are admitted to hospitals
more frequently. The continuous flow of clients being admitted and discharged quickly overwhelms general
hospital psychiatric units. In some cities, emergency department (ED) visits for acutely disturbed persons have
increased by 400% to 500%. Patients are often boarded or kept in the ED while waiting to see if the crisis de-
escalates or till an inpatient bed can be located or becomes available.

26
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Title: Dinners and Diners: Where and How to Dine in London

Author: Lieut.-Col. Newnham-Davis

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DINNERS AND

DINERS: WHERE AND HOW TO DINE IN LONDON ***
DINNERS AND DINERS
 WHERE AND HOW TO DINE IN
LONDON
BY

LIEUT.-COL. [NATHANIEL] NEWNHAM-DAVIS

London

GRANT RICHARDS

9 HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C.

OFFICE OF THE PALL MALL PUBLICATIONS

18 CHARING CROSS ROAD, W.C.

1899

To all the gentlemen, the managers of the various restaurants and

the masters of the culinary art, who have assisted me in the making
of this little book, I give my most grateful thanks.
THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE
When the series of articles now collected in this volume was first
discussed between their author and myself in the early part of 1897,
we found it a matter of no slight difficulty to determine what range
they should take, and to what class of establishments they should be
confined. There is no accounting for the variety of people's tastes in
the matter of eating and drinking, and among the readers of the Pall
Mall Gazette persons no doubt could be found ranging from the
Sybarite, who requires Lucullus-like banquets, to him of the simple
appetite for whom little more than a dinner with Duke Humphrey
would suffice. Consequently, the choice of places to be visited had to
be made in a catholic spirit, with the necessary result that a
formidably long list was prepared. In selecting Colonel Newnham-
Davis to carry out this commission for the Pall Mall Gazette, I knew I
was availing myself of the services of a thoroughly experienced,
trustworthy, and capable commissioner, who would deal with the
task entrusted to him in a pleasantly mixed anecdotal and critical
spirit, while at the same time supplying useful guidance to persons
wanting to know where to dine and what they would have to pay. In
the following pages it will be seen how well he carried out the duty
he undertook, and I am able to add that "Dinners and Diners" had a
great vogue and very wide popularity among the readers of the Pall
Mall Gazette. There were very many requests from various quarters
that they should be collected into book form, and this has now been
done with some valuable additions included in the shape of recipes
and other information. In these days, when the taste for dining at
restaurants is so largely on the increase, I have little doubt that the
republication of these articles will be welcomed, and that they will
supply not only interesting but useful information.
The Editor of the
Pall Mall Gazette.

March 1899.
 CONTENTS

FOREWORD Page
The Difficulties of Dining xvii

CHAPTER I
Princes' Hall (Piccadilly) 1

CHAPTER II
The Cheshire Cheese 9

CHAPTER III
The Holborn 15

CHAPTER IV
Romano's 22

CHAPTER V
Simpson's 31

CHAPTER VI
The Hans Crescent Hotel 38

CHAPTER VII
The Blue Posts (Cork Street) 45

CHAPTER VIII
Verrey's (Regent Street) 51

CHAPTER IX
The Hotel Cecil (the Strand) 59
CHAPTER X
Gatti's (the Strand) 67

CHAPTER XI
The Savoy (Thames Embankment) 73
Joseph at the Savoy 82

CHAPTER XII
The St. George's Café (St. Martin's Lane) 89

CHAPTER XIII
Willis's Rooms (King Street) 95

CHAPTER XIV
Le Restaurant des Gourmets (Lisle Street) 102

CHAPTER XV
The Trocadero (Shaftesbury Avenue) 108

CHAPTER XVI
The American Bar, Criterion (Piccadilly Circus) 116

CHAPTER XVII
The Hotel Continental (Regent Street) 122

CHAPTER XVIII
The Avondale (Piccadilly) 128

CHAPTER XIX
The Mercers' Hall (Cheapside) 137

CHAPTER XX
In —— Street 143

CHAPTER XXI
A Regimental Dinner (Hotel Victoria,
Northumberland Avenue) 149

CHAPTER XXII
Dieudonné's (Ryder Street) 156

CHAPTER XXIII
The Berkeley (Piccadilly) 162

CHAPTER XXIV
The Ship (Greenwich) 175

CHAPTER XXV
The House of Commons 182

CHAPTER XXVI
Earl's Court 189

CHAPTER XXVII
The Star and Garter (Richmond) 196

CHAPTER XXVIII
The Cavour (Leicester Square) 203

CHAPTER XXIX
The Café Royal (Regent Street) 209

CHAPTER XXX
Frascati's (Oxford Street) 218
CHAPTER XXXI
The Freemasons' Tavern (Great Queen Street) 224

CHAPTER XXXII
Scott's (Piccadilly Circus) 231

CHAPTER XXXIII
The East Room (Criterion, Piccadilly Circus) 237

CHAPTER XXXIV
The Monico (Shaftesbury Avenue) 247

CHAPTER XXXV
Goldstein's (Bloomfield Street) 253

CHAPTER XXXVI
The Tivoli (the Strand) 259

CHAPTER XXXVII
The Gordon Hotels (Northumberland Avenue) 266

CHAPTER XXXVIII
The Queen's Guard (St. James's Palace) 272

CHAPTER XXXIX
The Coburg (Carlos Place) 279

CHAPTER XL
The Midland Hotel (St. Pancras) 285

CHAPTER XLI
Kettner's (Church Street) 291
 CHAPTER XLII
Pagani's (Great Portland Street) 297

CHAPTER XLIII
Claridge's (Brook Street) 304

CHAPTER XLIV
Hotel de Paris (Leicester Place) 311

CHAPTER XLV
The Walsingham House (Piccadilly) 317

CHAPTER XLVI
Challis's (Rupert Street) 324

CHAPTER XLVII
Epitaux's (The Haymarket) 330

[Transcriber's note: The advertisements bound in at the beginning and end of the original
publication have been grouped together at the end of this digital edition.]

FOREWORD

THE DIFFICULTIES OF DINING

I would be willing to make you, my dear sir, a very small bet, that if
in the early afternoon you go into the restaurant where you intend
to dine in the evening and disturb the head waiter, who is reading a
paper at one of the side tables, suddenly breaking the news upon
him that you want a simple little dinner for two at eight o'clock, and
wish to commence the repast with clear soup, he, in reply, after
pulling out a book of order papers and biting his lead pencil, will, a
moment of thought intervening, suggest petite marmite.
It is not his fault. Hundreds of Britons have taken the carte de jour
out of his hands, and, looking at the list of soups, puzzled by the
names which mean nothing to them, have fallen back upon petite
marmite or croûte au pot, which they know are harmless homely
soups which the lady they are going to bring to dinner cannot object
to.
It requires a certain amount of bravery, a little consciousness of
knowledge, for the ordinary man looking down a list of dishes to put
his finger on every third one and ask, "What is that?" He is much
more likely, the head waiter, who has summed him up, prompting
him, to order very much the dinner that he would have eaten in his
suburban home had he been dining there that night.
Every good cook has his little vanities. They are all inventors; and
when any one of them, breaking away from the strict lines of the
classic haute cuisine, finds that a pinch of this or two drops of that
improves some well-known dish, he immediately gives it a new
name. It is the same with explorers. Did any one of them find a goat
with half a twist more in its horns than another explorer had noticed,
but he called it a new species and christened it Ovis Jonesi, Browni,
or Robinsoni, according to his surname. If you see filets de sole à la
Hercules John Jones on the carte do not be afraid to ask what it is.
It is probably some old acquaintance slightly altered by the chef,
who has had a flash of inspiration when preparing it for Mr. Hercules
John Jones, a valued client of the restaurant.
I should have begun this foreword by warning all experienced diners
to skip it and go on to Chapter I. It is not too late to do so now. I,
who have gone through all the agonies that a simple Briton
struggling in the spider web of a carte de jour can endure, am only
trying to warn other simple Britons with a liking for a good dinner by
an account of my experiences.
If you or I, in the absence of the maître d'hôtel and the head waiter,
fall into the hands of an underling, Heaven help us. He will lure you
or me on to order the most expensive dinner that his limited
imagination can conceive, and thinks he is doing his duty to the
patron. Luckily, such ill-luck as this rarely occurs. The manager is the
man to look for, if possible, when composing a menu. The higher
you reach up that glorious scale of responsibility which runs from
manager to marmiton, the more intelligent help you will get in
ordering your dinner, the more certain you are to have an artistic
meal, and not to be spending money unworthily.
That you must pay on the higher scale for a really artistic dinner is, I
regret to say, a necessity. No doubt the luxurious surroundings, the
quick, quiet service appear indirectly in the bill; but the material for
the dinner is costly. No pains are spared nowadays to put on the
table of a first-class restaurant the very best food that the world can
produce. Not only France, but countries much farther afield are
systematically pillaged that Londoners may dine, and I do not
despair of some day eating mangostines for dessert. All this costs
money; but the gourmets, like the dilettanti in any other art, do not
get a chef-d'œuvre for the price of a "pot-boiler."
I, personally, always prefer a dinner à la carte to a table-d'hôte one.
The table-d'hôte one—which is a misused word, for the table-d'hôte
was the general table presided over by the host—has advanced, with
the more general appreciation that dining does not mean simply
eating, and at a good restaurant the dinner of the day is cooked to
the minute for the groups at each separate table; but it has the
disadvantage that you have to eat a dinner ordered according to
somebody else's idea, and you have no choice as to length or
composition. With a friendly maître d'hôtel to assist, the composing
of a menu for a small dinner is a pleasure. To eat a table-d'hôte
dinner is like landing a fish which has been hooked and played by
someone else.
Mr. Echenard, late of the Savoy, in chatting over the vagaries of
diners, shook his head over the want of knowledge of the wines that
should be drunk with the various kinds of food. No man knows
better what goes to make a perfect dinner than Mr. Echenard does,
and as to the sinfulness of Britons in this particular, I quite agreed
with him. In Paris no man dreams of drinking champagne, and
nothing but champagne, for dinner; but in London the climate and
the taste of the fair sex go before orthodox rules. A tired man in our
heavy atmosphere feels often that champagne is the one wine that
will give him life again; and as the ladies as a rule would think a
dinner at a restaurant incomplete without champagne, ninety-nine
out of a hundred Englishmen, in ordering a little dinner for two, turn
instinctively to the champagne page of the wine-card. It is wrong,
but until we get a new atmosphere and give up taking ladies out to
dinner, champagne will be practically the only wine drunk at
restaurants.
On the subject of tips it is difficult to write. I have always found that
a shilling for every pound or part of a pound, or a shilling for each
member of a party brings a "thank you" from the waiter at any first-
class restaurant. I should be inclined to err a little on the liberal side
of this scale; for waiters do not have an easy life, are mainly
dependent on the tips they get, and have it in their power to greatly
add to, or detract from, the pleasure of a dinner. I always find that
the man who talks about "spoiling the market," in this respect is
thinking of protecting his own pocket and not his neighbour's.
Finally—and I feel very much as if I had been preaching a sermon—I
should, to put it all as shortly as possible, advise you, my brother
simple Briton—not you, the experienced diners, who have been
expressly warned off from this lecture—in ordering your dinner to
get the aid of the manager, and failing him the maître d'hôtel, never
to be hustled by an underling into ordering a big dinner when you
want a small one, and never to be afraid of asking what the
composition of a dish is.
The following little essay on the duties of a maître d'hôtel which
Mons. Joseph has sent me speaks most eloquently for itself:

Mon cher Colonel—

Vous me demandez pour votre nouveau livre des recettes. Méfiez-
vous des recettes. Depuis la cuisinière bourgeoise et le Baron Brisse
on a chanté la chanson sur tous les airs et sur tous les tons. Et qu'en
reste-t'il; qui s'en souvient? Je veux dire dans le public aristocratique
pour qui vous écrivez, et que vous comptez intéresser avec votre
nouvelle publication, cherchez le nouveau dans les à propos de
table, donnez des conseils aux maîtresses de maison, qui dépensent
beaucoup d'argent pour donner des dîners fatiguants, trop longs,
trop compliqués; dîtes leur qu'un bon dîner doit être court, que les
convives doivent manger et non goûter, qu'elles exigent de leur
cuisinier ou cuisinière de n'être pas trop savants, qu'ils respectent
avant tout le goût que le bon Dieu a donné à toutes choses de ne
pas les dénaturer par des combinaisons, qui à force d'être raffinées
deviennent barbares.
On a beaucoup parlé du cuisinier. Si nous exposions un peu ce que
doit être le Maître d'Hôtel.

Le Maître D'Hôtel Français

La plus grande force du Maître d'hôtel français, je dis maître d'hôtel

français à dessein, car si le cuisinier français a su tirer parti des
produits de la nature avec un art infini, pour en faire des aliments
aimables, agréables, et bienfaisants, le Maître d'hôtel français seul
est susceptible de les faire accepter et désirer. Or voilà pour le Maître
d'hôtel le champ qu'il a à explorer. Champ vaste s'il en fût, car
déviner avec tact ce qui peut plaire à celui-ci et ne pas plaire à celui-
là, est un problème à résoudre selon la nature, le tempérament et la
nationalité de celui qu'il doit faire manger. Il doit donc être le conseil,
le tentateur, et le metteur en scène. Il faut pour être un maître
d'hôtel accompli, mettre de côté, ou du moins ne pas laisser percer
le but commercial, tout en étant un commerçant hors ligne (je parle
ici du maître d'hôtel public de restaurant, attendu que dans la
maison particulière, le commerce n'a rien à voir, ce qui simplifie
énormement le rôle du maître d'hôtel. Pour cela il faut être un peu
diplomate, et un peu artiste dans l'art de dire, afin de colorer le
projet de repas que l'on doit soumettre à son dîneur). Il faut donc
agir sur l'imagination pour fair oublier la machine que l'on va
alimenter, en un mot masquer le côté matériel de manger. J'ai acquis
la certitude qu'un plat savamment préparé par un cuisinier hors ligne
peut passer inaperçu, ou inapprecié si le maître d'hôtel, qui devient
alors metteur en scène, ne sait pas présenter l'œuvre, de façon à le
faire désirer, de sorte que si ce mets est servi par un maître d'hôtel
qui n'en comprend pas le caractère, il lui sera impossible de lui
donner tout son relief, et alors l'œuvre du cuisinier sera anéanti et
passera inaperçu.
Ce maître d'hôtel doit être aussi un observateur et un juge et doit
transmettre son appréciation au chef de cuisine, mais pour apprécier
il faut savoir, pour savoir il faut aimer son art, le maître d'hôtel doit
être un apôtre.
Il doit transmettre les observations qu'il a pu entendre pendant le
cours d'un dîner de la part des convives, observations favorables ou
défavorables, il doit les transmettre au chef et aviser avec lui. Il doit
aussi être en observation, car il arrive le plus souvent que les
convives ne disent rien à cause de leur amphitryon mais ne mangent
pas avec plaisir et entrain le mets présenté: là encore le maître
d'hôtel doit chercher le pourquoi. Il y a aussi dans un déjeuner ou
un dîner un rôle très important réservé au maître d'hôtel. La variété
agréable des hors-d'œuvre, la salade qui accompagne le rôti, le
façon de découper ce rôti avec élégance, de bien disposer ce rôti sur
son plat une fois découpé, découper bien et vite, afin d'éviter le
réchaud qui sèche. Savoir mettre à point une selle de mouton, avec
juste ce qu'il faut de sel sur la partie grasse, qui lui donnera un goût
agréable.
Pour découper le maître d'hôtel doit se placer ni trop près ni trop loin
des convives, afin que ceux-ci soient intéressés, et voient que tous
les détails sont observés avec goût et élégance, de façon à tenter
encore les appétits qui n'en peuvent presque plus mais qui
renaissent encore un peu aiguillonnés par le désir qu'a su faire naître
l'artiste préposé au repas, et qui a su donner encore envie à
l'imagination, quand l'estomac commençait à capituler.
Le maître d'hôtel a de plus cette partie de la fin du dîner, le choix
d'un bon fromage, les fruits, les soins de température à donner aux
vins, la façon de décanter ceux-ci pour leur donner le maximum de
bouquet; le maître d'hôtel ne peut-il encore être un tentateur avec la
fraise frappée (à la Marivaux)? La pêche à la cardinal,
qu'accompagne si bien le doux parfum de la framboise, légèrement
acidulé d'un de jus de groseille, notre grand carême qualifiait.
Certains plats de "manger des Dieux," combien l'expression est
heureuse.
Depuis que je suis à Londres j'ai trouvé un nombre incalculable
"d'inventeurs de ma pêche à la cardinal." Il me faudra leur donner la
recette un jour que j'en aurai l'occasion.
N'est-ce pas de l'art chez le maître d'hôtel qui tente et charme les
convives par ces raffinements, et qui comme un cavalier sur une
moture essoufflée sait encore relever son courage et lui faire faire la
dernière foulée qui décide de la victoire? Après un bon repas le
maître d'hôtel a la grande satisfaction d'avoir donné un peu de
bonheur à de pauvres gens riches, qui ne sont pas toujours des
heureux.
Et comme l'a dit Brillat Savarin "Le plaisir de la table ne nuit pas aux
autres plaisirs." Au contraire, qui sait si indirectement je ne suis pas
le papa de bien des Bébés rieurs, ou la cause au moins de certaines
aventures que mes jolies clientes n'évoquent qu'en souriant derrière
leur éventail?
JOSEPH
Directeur du Savoy Restaurant, Londres,
 et du Restaurant de Marivaux, Paris.

CHAPTER I

PRINCES' HALL (PICCADILLY)

She is a charming little lady, and her husband, to tell the truth, spoils
her just a little. Most married dames would have been content, if
they wished to dine at a restaurant on the occasion of their birthday,
with one dinner; but Mrs. Daffodil—if I may so call her, from her
favourite flower—insisted on having a dinner out on Saturday, and
another on Sunday, and another on Monday, because, though her
twenty-first birthday really fell on Saturday, she was going to keep it
on Monday, when a great party of her husband's people were to
meet at the Savoy, and on Sunday her people were organising a
feast at the Berkley; but Mrs. Daffodil said that unless she dined out
on the evening of her real birthday she was sure she would have no
luck during the coming year, and I was told that I was to have the
privilege of being the third at the little dinner which was to be the
veritable birthday dinner, and that, as a return for this great favour, I
was to order the dinner and choose the restaurant.
I was too wise to take the full responsibility of anything so
important, and in a council of three we ran down the list of dining
places. Of those we paused over in consideration, the Princes' Hall
was the nearest to Mrs. Daffodil's flat, and the little lady
remembered that she had not dined there this year, and suddenly
decided that it was the very place for a birthday dinner; and should
she wear her new white dress, or would the black dress with the
handsome bit of lace suit her better? Her husband looked a little
helpless at the mention of dress, and I at a venture suggested the
black, for I remembered that the roof of the grand salon of the
Princes', with its heavy mouldings, was white picked out with gold,
while the great panels of brick red, powdered with golden fleurs-de-
lys and the palms filling-in the corners, would show up a black dress
just as well as a white one.
Black it was to be, and, this important matter decided, I was sent off
as an advance messenger in a hansom cab to order the best table
available and a dinner, not too elaborate and not too small, which
was to be ready by the time little Mrs. Daffodil had dressed and
could drive down to the restaurant in her brougham.
My hansom was a fleet one. A party of guests at one of the tables by
the windows, evidently bound for a theatre, had finished their dinner
and were just off and away as I arrived, and I pounced like a hawk
upon the table they left vacant. The first preliminaries were soon
over, for the little dapper maître d'hôtel, whom I had known in
previous days at the East Room of the Criterion, had the table
cleared at once, found some yellow flowers which, if they were not
daffodils, were very like them, and had big bouquets of them put
upon the table. Then came the important question of the dinner.
Hors-d'œuvre variés, suggested the little maître d'hôtel; but I moved
as an amendment that it should be caviar, for the caviar at the
Princes' is Benoist's, and no man imports better. "Turtle," suggested
the maître d'hôtel, a little doubtfully, after being defeated in his first
venture, and as I passed the suggestion with a nod potage tortue
went down on the slip of paper. Mrs. Daffodil had made a suggestion
as to salmon which she withdrew as soon as made, but I had
remembered it, and saumon à la Grenobloise was scribbled down.
"Now," said the maître d'hôtel a little decisively, "since the soup and
the fish are brown, we must have a white entrée," and as I was not
prepared at the moment with any practical suggestion, having
thought of noisettes de mouton and a woodcock as the rest of the
solid part of the dinner, I allowed the proposal to go by default, and
fricassée de poulet à l'Ancienne was ordered. "A tiny saddle of
lamb?" was the next suggestion, and although I regretted my
prospective woodcock I let the matter go, for we had a bird already
in the menu. "Pommes nouvelles risolées. Salade de mâche, céleri,
betterave. Asperges anglaises," reeled off my mentor, and I nodded
at the mention of the English asparagus; and then to show that I
was going to have a word in the ordering of the dinner I added
macédoine de fruits à l'orientale and friandises without requiring any
prompting.
I waited in the bright, French-looking entrance hall, with its mirrors
and screens decorated with painted flowers, and watched the people
coming in and going out. A party of smart young men from the
Stock Exchange, most of whom I knew, on their way to a row of
stalls they had taken at the Gaiety, passed and chaffed me for my
waiting; but the sound of the band within in the great white railed-in
musicians' gallery was cheerful—and an excellent band it is, each
artist in it being a soloist of some celebrity—and presently M.
Fourault, the manager, who is the brother-in-law of M. Benoist, came
out and talked to me, saying that M. Azema, the chef, was
personally superintending the cooking of the dinner, to which I
replied that I was much obliged that the great artist from the Café
Anglais should have paid me the compliment. Then M. Fourault
launched forth into details of the service and the building: how the
dishes are brought direct to the guests by hand so as to avoid the
chance of draughts in lifts; of the beauty of the kitchen; the
arrangements to keep in touch with and co-operate with the Royal
Institute on the top floor, and a variety of other topics. And as he
talked Signor Bocchi's band inside was softly playing, and I was
growing hungry waiting for little Mrs. Daffodil, for I knew that it
would not be her husband who caused the delay.
The brougham drew up before the glass portico with its brass
ornamentations, and Mrs. Daffodil in the wonderful black dress was
helped out. She would bring her ermine cape in with her, she
thought; and having arrived at the table smiled graciously at seeing
her name-flowers there. I explained that the table by the door
protected by the glass screens was my favourite one, and that I
should have taken it if possible, but that it had been engaged for
days, and Mrs. Daffodil was pleased to think the one we had
obtained was quite as nice. Didn't she think the room, with its big
panels, its few long mirrors, its clusters of electric lights and electric
candles on the tables, and its musicians' gallery over the entrance to
the offices and kitchen, very handsome? I asked. And as she helped
herself to the caviar, each little ball as separate as if they had been
pellets of shot, she assented; but to show that she was critical,
thought there ought to have been more palms. Then the little lady
took up the questioning, and wanted to know who everybody was
who was dining. I was able to point out a well-known artist taking a
quiet meal with his wife, who at one time was an ornament of the
comedy-stage; a party of soldier officers up from Aldershot (and I
had a story of the gallantry of one of them, and how he should have
won by right a Victoria Cross); an ex-Gaiety girl who was the heroine
of a breach of promise case, and who had at the table she occupied
quite a crowd of gilded youths; a youngster whose good looks have
won him a very rich but not too young wife—and there I had to
pause, for though the room was full of well-dressed, smart-looking
people, I knew no more of them by name.
I was reproved for not knowing my London better, and tried to turn
the conversation by telling my host that I would sooner share the
burgundy with him than drink the champagne which Mrs. Daffodil
thought a necessary part of her birthday dinner, but at that moment,
the soup being brought, we all relapsed into serious criticism. The
turtle soup was good undoubtedly, as good as at any City dinner,
with its jade-coloured semi-solid floating in the darker liquor, and we
praised that unreservedly, but I was told that I was in a carping
mood because I stated that I like my salmon as plainly cooked as
possible. As to the fricassée, I liked it immensely; but Mrs. Daffodil,
because her shoe pinched, or for some other good reason, said that
she hated truffles. The lamb, the most delicate little selle d'agneau
de lait, with the potatoes and the dark green salad relieved by the
crimson of the beetroot, was admirable. English asparagus never can
be anything but good, and though my hostess insisted on my eating
a cherry from among the friandises, I left the sweets, as is my
custom, alone.
And the bill. I asked my host to let me look at it, and here it is:—
three couverts, 3s.; caviar, 3s.; tortue, 6s.; saumon, 6s.; fricassée de
poulet, 7s.; selle d'agneau, 8s.; pommes risolées, 2s.; salade, 1s.
6d.; asperges, 10s. 6d.; macédoine de fruits, 4s. 6d.; one '67
(Burgundy), 12s.; ½ 140 (champagne), 7s. 6d., three cafés special,
1s. 6d.; three liqueurs fine champagne (1800), 6s.; total, £4: 0: 6.
1st February.

This was a dinner ordered in a hurry and without perhaps due

consideration. Talking over it some days later on with Mons.
Fourault, I asked him to give me a suggestion as to what he
considered a typical Princes' Hall dinner for a larger number, and I
also asked him to be my ambassador to M. Azema, the chef, for the
recette of the poulet à l'Ancienne, which I had liked so much.
This is the menu for a dinner of six covers, a very admirable dinner
of ceremony. As to its cost, I am not prepared to guess.

Le Signi du Volga.
Les petits coulibiacs à la Czarine.
La crème Ste-Marie.
Les suprêmes de truites à la Princesse.
Les poulardes à la Georges Sand.
Le Baron de Pauillac aux primeurs.
Les bécasses au champagne.
La salade Impériale.
Les asperges d'Argenteuil Ste-Mousseleine.
Le soufflé chaud succès.
La glace Leda.
Une corbeille de friandise.
Les canapés Diane.
Dessert.
Mons. Azema thought the fricassée Ancienne, the recette of which I
had asked for, too simple a dish, and instead sent me the recette for
the poularde Georges Sand, which is a very lordly dish. Here it is as
Mons. Azema wrote it, and a translation for any good people who,
like myself, are puzzled sometimes by the terms employed in la
Haute Cuisine.

Recette de la poularde G. Sand

Lever les membres d'une belle poularde très blanche bien

régulièrement. Faire la tomber à blond, avec un oignon émincé, une
bonne pointe de paprika, et deux verres de vin blanc, environ
quarante-cinq minutes. Retirer la poularde et passer le fonds à
l'étamine, le monter avec un bon beurre d'écrevisse, et garnir avec
queues d'écrevisse, belles truffes, en olives, et croûtons de
feuilletage. Servir très chaud.

Dismember a large white fowl very carefully. Stew it in white stock,

with a chopped onion, a good pinch of paprika, and two glasses of
white wine, for about forty-five minutes. Take out the fowl, and pass
the stock through the tammy. Flavour with a good cray-fish butter,
and garnish with tails of cray-fish, large truffles, olives, and croûtons
of French puff-paste (feuilletage). Serve very hot.

CHAPTER II
 THE CHESHIRE CHEESE

I had been kept late in Fleet Street on Saturday, and at a little

before seven I woke to the fact that it was near the dinner hour, that
I was in the clothes I had worn all day, that I was brain-weary and
tired, and not energetic. I should be late for dinner if I went home,
half across the width of London; I could not well dine at a club
without evening clothes, and a smart restaurant was equally out of
the question, for I felt, being in the state of humiliation which
weariness and London grime bring one to, that I could not have held
my own as to the choice of a table or the ordering of a dinner
against even the least determined maître d'hôtel.
The easiest way was to dine at one of the Fleet Street hostelries,
and I ran such of them as I know over in my mind. How they have
changed since Herrick rang them into rhyme! Then they were the
Sun, the Dog, the Triple Tun. Now they are the Rainbow, the Cock,
Anderton's, the Cheshire Cheese, and a host more. It was a pudding
day at the Cheshire Cheese, not the crowded day, which is
Wednesday, but a day on which I was sure to get a seat in the lower
room and be able to eat my meal in comfort and content; and that
finally decided me in favour of the hostelry in Wine Office Court.
It is not a cheerful thoroughfare that leads up to the Cheshire
Cheese. It is a narrow and dark passage, and the squat little door of
the tavern itself is not inviting, for it is reminiscent of a country
public-house. It is not until one is through the sawdusted passage
and into the lower room that one is in warmth and comfort.
I was a little late. The man who loves the Cheshire Cheese pudding
is in his place at table a few minutes before the pudding is brought
in at 6.30 P.M., a surging billow of creamy white bulging out of a
great brown bowl, and then when the host begins to carve—and
there is a certain amount of solemnity about the opening of this
great pudding—the early guest gets the best helping. By a quarter-
past seven, when I made my entry, the pudding had sunk down into
the depths of the bowl.
Most of the tables were full, but the long table, at the head of which
Dr. Johnson is alleged to have sat with Goldsmith at his left hand,
had some vacant places, and I took one of them. "Pudding?" said
the head waiter. I assented, and Mr. Moore, the host, a dapper
gentleman, with a wealth of dark hair and a dark moustache, who
had been chatting to a clean-shaven young gentleman who had the
seat opposite to mine, moved to the great bowl to give me my
helping, for no one but the host touches the sacred pudding. The
clean-shaven young gentleman relapsed into a newspaper, and while
I waited the few seconds before the brown mixture of lark and
kidney and oyster and steak was put before me I looked round at
my neighbours. A gentleman, bald of head and with white whiskers,
who was addressed as "Doctor," sat in the great lexicographer's seat,
and talking to him was a bearded gentleman whom I put down at
once as a press-man, a sub-editor probably. The only other guest at
our table was a good-looking, middle-aged man in clothes that had
the gloss of newness on them, a flannel shirt, a white collar, and a
gaudy tie. He had finished his meal, was evidently contented with
the world, and there was a conversational glint in his eye when he
caught mine that made me look away at once; for I was hungry and
downcast and not inclined for cheerful converse until I had eaten
and drunk.
"Pudding, sir," and the head waiter put the savoury mass before me;
"and what else?" I ordered a pint of beer and stewed cheese. I ate
my pudding, and being told that the cheese was not ready, ate a
"follow" afterwards, for there is no limit to the amount of pudding
allowed, and some of the "followers," as the host of the tavern calls
them, have been known to have half a dozen helpings; and then the
brown and fizzling cheese in its little tin tray, with a triangle of toast
on either side, was put before me. The cheese, mixed with mustard
and neatly spread on the toast, according to custom, eaten, the last
drops of the bitter beer poured from the pewter tankard into the
long glass which is supposed to give brilliancy to the malt liquor; and
then, feeling a man again, I looked across at the flannel-shirted
gentleman who had been smoking a pipe placidly, with a look which
meant "Come on."
The ripple of conversation broke at once. He had been out in
Australia for fifteen years, went out there as a mere lad, and to-day
was his first day in town after his return. He had been used in past
times to come to the Cheshire Cheese for his mid-day meal, and the
first place he had sought out when he came to London was the old
hostelry. He missed the old waiters, he said, but otherwise the place
was much the same and as homely as ever.
I recognised in the attraction that had brought this wanderer from
the antipodes to the old-fashioned tavern, first of all places, the
same force that had made me, the blasé man about town,
unconsciously decide to dine there in preference to any other Fleet
Street hostelry—its homeliness. The old-fashioned windows with
their wire blinds, the sawdusted floor, the long clay pipes on the
window-sill; the heirloom portrait of Henry Todd, waiter; the
"greybeard" and leather-jack on their brackets (both gifts from Mr.
Seymour Lucas the artist); the piles of black-handled knives, the
willow-pattern plates and dishes; the curious stand in the centre of
the floor for umbrellas; the great old-fashioned grate with a brass
kettle singing merrily on it; the pile of Whitaker's almanacks putting
a touch of colour into a dark corner; Samuel Johnson's portrait over
his favourite seat, and a host of prints, relating to the great man, on
the walls; the high partitions, one particular square pew being
shielded by a green baize curtain; the simple napery; the ruin of the
great pudding on its little table; all carried one back through the
early Victorian times to those dimmer periods when even coffee-
houses were unknown, and every man took his ease at his inn.
The floodgates of the friendly stranger's speech once unloosed, he
told me of his life in Australia, and the hard times he had had, and
how matters had come so far right that he was able to come home
to England and enjoy himself for six months; and the clean-shaven
young gentleman—he was going on later to assist in an
entertainment to the poor of Houndsditch, he told us—emerged
from his newspaper, and we all found a good deal to say. Nothing
would satisfy the returned wanderer but that he must be allowed to
ask us to join him in drinking a bowl of the Cheshire Cheese punch,
and Mr. Moore, the host, must make one of the party. The other
guests—most of them, I should think, connected in some way or
other with the Fourth Estate—had gradually drifted away, and Mr.
Moore, who had been going from table to table, came and sat down.
"No celebrities here to-night, Mr. Moore," I said somewhat
reproachfully, and he admitted the soft impeachment, but Irish-wise
told us of the great men of the present day that we had missed by
not dining at the Cheese on any night but the present one. Every
journalist of fame, every editor, has eaten within the walls of the old
hostelry, and there is no judge that sits on the bench who has not
taken some of his first dinners as a barrister in the little house up
Wine Office Court.
The hot punch was brought in in one of the china bowls, of which
there are three or four in a little corner cupboard in the old-
fashioned bar across the passage, and an old silver ladle to serve it
with; and the talk ranged back from the great men of the present
day to those of the past. Thackeray knew the "Cheese" well; Dickens
used to come in his early days and tell the present host's mother all
his troubles, and so we got back to Goldsmith and Johnson, the
latter of whom is the especial patron saint of the hostelry, for when
he lived in Gough Square and Bolt Court the Cheshire Cheese is said
to have been his nightly resort.
The punch ended, the time came for the reckoning. Of old the head
waiters were all clean-shaven, like Henry Todd, whose portrait hangs
aloft, and all the reckoning was done by word of mouth. But the
present head waiter has introduced innovations; he wears a
moustache, and makes out his bills on paper. This was mine—Ye
rump steak pudding, 2s.; vegetables, 2d.; cheese, 4d.; beer, 5d.;
total, 2s. 11d.
8th February.
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