EXTENSION

College of Agriculture,
Biotechnology & Natural Resources
SP-01-15

Becoming a Desert Gardener

Angela O'Callaghan, Ph.D.
Area Specialist, Social Horticulture

with Aggie Roberts, Vocational Educator Instructor, and other members

of University of Nevada Cooperative Extension
Page Topic Subtopic Author (if other than
Dr. Angela O’Callaghan)
1. GETTING STARTED AS A DESERT GARDENER
Water
The Weather
2. THE SOIL
The Soil
Caliche
Organic Matter
pH
3. COMPOST Aggie Roberts
Building a Compost Pile
4. FERTILIZERS
5. RAISED BEDS
Building a Raised Bed
6. MULCH
Organic
Cloth
Plastic
Gravel
WATERING
7. NATIVE AND DESERT ADAPTED PLANTS Aggie Roberts
Herbaceous
Woody
8. HERBS Aggie Roberts
USING SEEDLINGS FOR A HEADSTART ON
PLANTING
9. VEGETABLES
10. Vegetable Planting Guide
Clarita Huffman
12. ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS Aggie Roberts
Fall and Early Spring Color
Spring and Summer Color
Perennials
Bulbs
14. FRUITS AND BERRIES FOR SOUTHERN NEVADA
Information from Bob Scott
16. TURFGRASS MANAGEMENT IN THE DESERT
Bob Morris
17. TREES Aggie Roberts
18. PALMS M. L. Robinson
19. PRUNING Alex Shigo
20. CONCLUSION

Editorial Assistance Vicki Paul

 G ETTING STARTED AS A
D ESERT G ARDENER
Water

The average rainfall in the Mojave Desert is four

inches per year, and the humidity is usually below 30%.
Since water is the first nutrient any plant (or animal)
needs, it is important to create a garden with this in mind:

The desert is dry.

To succeed as a desert gardener, consider the following
when choosing and growing plants:

The Weather

In Southern Nevada, the temperature will vary

widely over the course of the year. A record temperature
of 117° was recorded at McCarran Airport in July, 1942.
On average, about ninety-seven days per year have
temperatures over 100°. The record low winter
temperature was 8° in 1937, but the average winter
temperature is in the low 30°’s. (Data from the U. S.
Weather Service). Plants that survive desert heat in other
places may not survive the winter cold in the Las Vegas
valley, and vice versa.
Wind gusts of 70 mph are not unheard of, which
means that young plants may be dislodged if not
protected.
1
 THE SOIL
The first part of planting in any climate is preparing the soil,
and the desert is a particularly difficult environment for growing plants.
Because there is a small amount of vegetation and rainfall in the
desert, soils here tend to be low in fertility and high in salts. Native
and native-like plants have adapted to this setting over the years, but
adapted plants require more soil nutrients and water, and lower levels
of salts.

Removing Salts in Soils

If the soil can drain freely, then it may be possible to remove
excess salt by leaching. Irrigate with a large amount of water to
remove soil salt before planting. Often the soil is not well drained, so it
may be necessary to add materials (like compost) that improve the
soil’s drainage capacity before applying water. Remember, however,
that leaching will also decrease the soil’s fertility, so it will be necessary
to build up the nutrient level (by adding compost or fertilizer) before
planting.

Caliche
"Caliche" is a term commonly used in Southern Nevada. It
refers to a layer where soil particles are cemented together by lime. It
may be a few inches or several feet thick, and acts like a hardpan,
blocking drainage from plantings. It is also alkaline, which impairs the
growth of many plants.

pH
pH is the measure of alkalinity or acidity. It ranges from 1
(most acidic) to 14 (most basic). A pH of 7 is neutral. Soil in Southern
Nevada tends to have a high pH, 8.0 or higher. To reduce the pH,
apply sulfur, obtainable from gardening suppliers, to the soil. Before
planting, apply 15 - 20 pounds of sulfur per 1,000 square feet and till it
six to eight inches deep. Do not apply to planted areas during hot
periods. Applying ammonium sulfate is not an effective method to lower
soil pH.

Organic Matter
One way to improve difficult soil conditions is to add organic matter.
Organic matter improves the soil in many ways.
♦ It improves soil structure; helping drainage for salt removal.
♦ It is full of beneficial soil microorganisms.
♦ It moderates soil temperature.
♦ It holds moisture.
♦ It is a major source of soil nutrients.
♦ It can tie up chemicals, both beneficial and harmful.

2
Organic Matter to Use
♦ Peat Moss
♦ Mature Compost
♦ Potting Mixes
♦ Composted Bio-Solids (sludge)
♦ Forest Mulches (bark, pine needles, leaves), but use with
compost.
♦ Composted Manure (if the soil has a high salt level, avoid
dairy manure, which may also be high in salt)

COMPOST
Compost is decayed organic material that provides valuable
nutrients to garden soil. Making a compost heap requires some work,
but the final product is worth the effort.
When making a compost pile, be sure to use only plant
wastes. Never add bones, grease, meat or plastic materials because
these will not break down properly. Do not use eggshells or ashes , as
they will raise the pH of the local soils. Avoid adding weed seeds or
paper, plants that show signs of disease. Materials to compost are:
leaves, straw, grass clippings, shredded bark, pine needles, coffee
grounds, tea bags, produce waste, vegetable and fruit peels. Do not
use any plant material that has been treated with an herbicide.

Building a Compost Pile.

[Note: there are commercial compost makers available , but it is not
necessary to use one of them to make compost successfully.]
1—Locate pile in an inconspicuous spot.

2—Place a layer of coarse material such as straw several inches thick

on the ground (for drainage).

3—Place a layer of material to be composted about three inches thick.

4—Place a layer of dry material like shredded leaves, wood chips, or

shredded paper, about six inches thick over that.

5—Cover those layers with a one-inch layer of garden soil.

6—Water thoroughly.

7—Aerate the pile by using a fork or a shovel to mix it up every few

days.

Repeat steps 3 through 7.

3
 FERTILIZERS
Fertilizers may be in packaged form or obtained from the organic matter
that gets worked into the soil. Packaged forms have the percentage of different
elements on the label, eg. NPK = 20-20-20 (20% Nitrogen, 20% Phosphorus,.20%
Potassium).
Element Role Deficiency Notes

Nitrogen N Leaves, proteins, Chlorotic (pale, The first number

and DNA.* yellow) leaves.* on any fertilizer
package.*
Phosphorus P Color, flowers, fruit Purple streaks or The second
and seeds. patches on leaves; number.
bronzing.
Potassium K Water transport, Browning of The third number.
roots, whole plant margins of older
vigor. leaves.

Calcium Ca Cell walls and many Blossom end rot (a Desert soils have
metabolic hard black patch at calcium; problems
processes. the bottom) of are often due to
tomatoes, tip burn irregular watering.
of lettuce.
Magnesium Mg Chlorophyll. Space between
leaf
veins becomes n/a
yellow.
Sulfur S Several amino Patches of yellow Adding sulfur helps
acids. develop on leaf. reduce soil pH.

Boron B Flowering and root Various. Mojave soils may

production. be
high in B. May see
toxic symptoms.
Chlorine Cl Helps to reduce or Various. Mojave soils tend
prevent root to
disease. be high in Cl.
Copper Cu Chlorophyll Various.
enzymes activity. n/a
Iron Fe Many processes* Leaves become Often due to
pale, even white.* high pH in soil.*
Manganese Mn Chlorophyll.* Looks like iron
deficiency* n/a
Molybdenum Mo Needed for proteins. Looks like lack of
N. n/a
Zinc Zn Hormones
and starch n/a n/a
production.*

* = Deficiency problem in desert soil.

4
 RAISED BEDS
In a “raised bed,” plants are grown in a bed that is
higher than the surrounding ground. It may simply be a bed of
soil piled up and made firm, but more often it is a structure deep
enough to hold soil-mix to produce a root system.
Why a raised bed? When trying to produce fruits,
vegetables or flowers, it may be easier to create a contained
mini-garden than dig into highly compacted, alkaline soil and
replace native soil with soil amendments.

Building a raised bed

First, determine how large it should be. The needs of
the crop (carrots require enough depth to produce its root) and
the gardener (raised beds require less bending) will influence
the decision of how deep to make it. Make the bed narrow
enough so the gardener can reach the middle of it comfortably.
The length will depend on how much the gardener wants to
grow.
The walls of the bed can be brick, wood, cement block,
or anything else that is solid enough to hold the soil mix. Do
not use “pressure treated” lumber when building a bed for fruits
or vegetables. Make sure moisture can drain out.
Once the walls are up, fill the bed. There are
commercial mixes available from nurseries, but it is possible to
fill the bed using the following recipe:
1. Place a layer of sand almost ½ the depth of the bed.
2. Add a layer of rotted organic matter (see “Compost”)
about as thick as the layer of sand.
3. Add fertilizer. This is to get the microorganisms in the
compost active. Use a fertilizer containing nitrogen,
phosphorus and potassium. It may be “organic” or
“conventional” depending on your preference.
4. Mix all the above with a garden fork, a spade, or a
rototiller.
5. Firm and level the soil. Don’t pack it. Water thoroughly.
6. Plant desired crops.
7. When irrigating, water thoroughly.
8. Fertilize when plants are growing most rapidly. The
time to fertilize will vary with the season and crop.

5
 MULCH
Straw or cloth mulch are the most common, but other materials such
as paper may also be practical.
Organic Mulch To control weeds, moderate soil temperatures and
conserve water, a layer of organic mulch is very effective. The soil temperature
under a thick layer of straw may be 20° cooler than unmulched soil. These can
be straw, hay, shredded bark, or any fibrous material. These break down slowly
into organic matter, enriching the soil.
Note: Natives or desert adapted plants have developed or adapted to
drier circumstances with low organic matter, hence could be susceptible to pest
attacks under organic mulch.
When irrigating a plot mulched with fibrous material, make sure that
the water goes through the mulch into the soil. Unless enough water is applied,
organic mulches can act as sponges, keeping the water from getting to the
roots.
Cloth Mulch Mulch cloth serves many of the same purposes as plastic
mulch but is re-usable. It comes in a variety of meshes. Use instead of plastic.
Plastic Mulch Plastic mulch is not recommended. Weed cloth performs the
same functions, and can be reused.
Gravel Mulch Gravel limits weeds and dust, but only use it as mulching
material for native or desert-adapted plants. Since it accumulates and reflects
heat, it can damage tender plants. The rocks may also physically damage
stems of garden plants. They do not provide nutrients to improve the soil.
While they may seem like permanent mulches, they are not. Like any
other mulch, they will ultimately need replacing. Over time, depending on the
rock itself, it can degrade. With wind and dust, gravel will also move into the
soil, or be washed away with heavy rains or irrigation.
In general, it is not a good idea to mix the mulch types. Do not place
sheeting under gravel or organic mulches. As a rule, if organic mulch is used,
then avoid gravel, and vice versa.

WATERING
The frequency and amount of water applied to the landscape depends on
plants being grown, soil type and time of year.
1. Always make sure the landscape has drainage.

2. More frequent irrigation is necessary in the summer.

3. Non-desert adapted plants require more water than desert plants.

4. Water thoroughly. Make sure the plant’s whole root zone is watered.

5. Sandy soils drain quickly and should be watered more often than
heavy clay soils.

6. Check moisture levels by digging several inches deep next to plants.

6
 NATIVE AND DESERT-ADAPTED PLANTS

Herbaceous

Common Name Scientific Name

Basket of Gold Aurinia saxatilis
Brittle Bush Encelia farinosa
Butterfly weed Asclepias tuberosa
Chuparosa Justicia californica
Desert (or Globe) Mallow Sphaeralcea spp.
Desert Marigold Baileya multiradiata
Gaura Gaura lindheimeri
Mountain Marigold Tagetes lemmoni
Mexican Honeysuckle Justicia spicigera
Penstemon Penstemon spp.
Russian Sage Perovskia spp.
Sierra Sun Drop Calyophus hartwegii
Skeleton-leaf Goldeneye Viguiera stenoloba
Stone Crop Sedum spp.
Sunray Helipterum spp..
Yarrow Achillea spp..

Shrubs
Black dalea Dalea frutescens “sorothamnus”
Butterfly Bush Buddleia spp.
Creosote Bush Larrea Tridentata
Lantana Lantana spp.
Pea Bush Dalea pulchra
Trailing Indigo Dalea greggii
Bush
Turpentine Bush Ericameria laricifolia
Yucca Yucca spp.
Texas Ranger Leucophyllum spp.
Cassia Cassia spp.

7
 HERBS
Herbs are plants or plant parts valued for medicinal, savory or
aromatic qualities. Whether used for flavoring, fragrance, medicine or
tea, herbs are useful. They are among the most familiar plants in the
garden. Given adequate light and good soil, they will produce well.

With good soil and adequate light and water, the following
herbs will produce well under our desert conditions. Some herbs for
specific situations are:

Kitchen garden (This can be a sunny raised bed near the kitchen
door, a planter box or a part of a vegetable garden.)
Basil, chives, dill, sweet marjoram, mint,
parsley, tarragon.
Ground cover for sun Prostrate rosemary, lemon thyme
Ground cover for shade Sweet woodruff
Perennial or shrub border Lavender, scented geraniums, rosemary,
tansy, yarrow, lemon grass
Rock garden English lavender, thyme
Moist areas Mint, parsley
Part shade Chervil, costmary, lemon balm
Containers Chives, sweet marjoram, mint, coriander

USING SEEDLINGS FOR A

HEADSTART ON PLANTING

Although Southern Nevada is a desert, spring is often too cool

for tender seedlings to get established outdoors before the summer
temperatures rise. Planting seeds indoors produces flowers and
vegetable plants that can be transplanted successfully. This is
particularly important with some of the warm season vegetables, such
as tomato, eggplant, watermelon and pepper.
Several weeks before the planting date suggested on the
seed package, plant seeds in a potting mix. Several soilless mixes are
for sale at garden centers that do not contain any disease organisms
that could injure seedlings.
Once the seedlings have two or three sets of true leaves, they
can be transplanted into a raised bed or a prepared garden bed.

8
 VEGETABLES
Because of the challenges presented by high salt levels, high
pH, and low amounts of organic matter in Southern Nevada soils,
growing vegetables in this area is easier in a raised bed, where
amendments such as compost increase the tilth and nutrient levels of
the soil.

Vegetables may be almost any plant part:

• Tuber (swollen underground rhizome, e.g. potato)
• Root (carrots, beets)
• Bulb (swollen underground leaf, e.g. onions, garlic)
• Stem (asparagus)
• Above ground leaf (lettuce, cabbage)
• Pre-flower structure (broccoli, cauliflower)
• Fruit (tomato, pepper, cucumber, bean)
• Seeds (beans, sunflowers)
Vegetables fall into two general categories:
• Cool season vegetables are planted so that most or all of their
growth is in the cool part of the year. They are the tubers, roots,
bulbs, stems, leaves and pre-flower structures.
• Warm season vegetables are planted so that most or all of their
growth is in the warm (but not the hottest) part of the year.
These vegetables are usually fruits and seeds.
All plants, whether cool or warm season, will "shut down"
most of their metabolism when the temperature is over 95°. They will
continue to pull up water to stay alive, so water regularly, but they will
not produce leaves, roots, flowers or fruits when the temperature is
that high.
Cool season vegetables generally require less sunlight than
warm crops, but do require at least six hours of sunlight per day. They
need protection from the hottest afternoon sun.
When planting vegetables, like any other annuals, keep the
seed bed evenly moist after planting. When the plants are established
(have true leaves), apply a layer of organic mulch to maintain soil
moisture and keep temperatures from varying too widely.
Cotyledons are the first leaves
produced by a germinating seed. They often
look different from the plant's adult leaves.
Check seed packets; they often have a
drawing or -picture of the cotyledons, to
distinguish them from weeds.
High boron soils, like many found in
the Las Vegas Valley, are tough on crops, but
asparagus and beets have a high tolerance for
boron.
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VEGETABLE PLANTING GUIDE FOR SOUTHERN
NEVADA, Clarita Huffman, Master Gardener
Note: Early August means the 2nd week of August.
* - Should be started in hotbed 8 weeks ahead of this date.

COOL SEASON:
Artichoke – Early February through late March
Asparagus – Early February through late April,
then early September through late November
Beet – Early February through late March,
then early August through early October
Broccoli – Early through late February,
then early August through early October
Brussels Sprouts–Early through late February,
then early August through early October
Cabbage – Early through late February,
then early August through early October
Carrots – Early February through late March,
then early August through early October
Cauliflower – Early through late February,
then early August through early October
Celery* – Mid-March through early April,
then early September through early October
Chard-Swiss – Early February through Late March,
then early August through early October
Chive – Early February through mid-March,
then early August through early October
Collard – Late February through late March,
then early August through early October
Endive – Early February through late March,
then early August through early October
Garlic – Early September through early October
Horseradish – Early February through late March,
then early October through late November
Kale – Early February through mid-March,
then early August through early October
Kohlrabi – Early February through mid-March,
then early August through early October
Leek – Early February through mid-March,
then early September through early October
Lettuce-head – Early through late February,
then mid-August through late September
Lettuce-leaf – Early through late February,
then mid-August through late September
10
Mustard – Early February through mid-March, then early
September through late October
Onions-dry – Early March through early April,
then early August through late October
Onions-green – Early February through mid-March,
then early August through early October
Parsley – Early February through late March,
then early August through early October
Parsnips – Early February through late March,
then mid-August through early October
Pea – Early February through mid-March,
then early September through early October
Potatoes-Irish – Mid-February through mid-March
Radish – Early February through late April,
then mid-August through early October
Rhubarb – Early February through late March
Rutabaga – Early February through mid-March,
then mid-August through early October
Salsify – Early February through mid-March,
then mid-August through early October
Spinach – Early February through late March,
then early September through early October
Turnips – Early February through mid-March,
then mid-August through early October

WARM SEASON:
Beans-bush – Mid-March through mid-April,
then mid-June through mid-August
Beans-pole – Mid-March through mid-April
Cantaloupe – Mid-March through late June
Corn-sweet – Mid-March through late April,
then mid-June through mid-August
Cucumber – Mid-March through mid-August
Eggplant* – Mid-March through mid-May
Muskmelon – Mid-March through late June
Okra – Early April through late June
Peanut – Mid-March through mid-May
Pepper* – Mid-March through early May
Potato-sweet – Early April through late may
Pumpkin – Mid-March through late June
Squash-summer – Mid-March through early July
Squash-winter – Mid-March through late June
Tomato* – Mid-March through late May
Watermelon – Mid-March through late June

11
 ANNUALS and PERENNIALS
Annual plants complete their life cycles in a single season; seeds
germinate and the plants grow, bloom, set seed and die within one year
or less.
Perennials live and flower for more than one season.
The annuals and perennials do well if planted at the right time and given
the proper maintenance.

Annual Flowers for Fall and Early Spring Color

Plant in September and October.

African daisy Ornamental kale

Alyssum Pansy
Bells of Ireland Petunia*
Calendula Phlox*
Coreopsis Poppy
Dianthus* Shasta daisy
Foxglove Snapdragon*
Gazania* Statice*
Hollyhock Strawflower
Larkspur Viola
Ornamental cabbage Wall flower

Annual Flowers for Spring and Summer Color

Ageratum Larkspur
Amaranthus Lisianthus*
Asters Lobelia
Black Eyed Susan* Marigold
Celosia Nasturtium (morning sun)
Coleus (shade) Nierembergia
Columbine Periwinkle (Vinca)*
Coreopsis Petunia
Cosmos Phlox*
Dianthus* Primrose
Gallardia* Salvia
Gazania* Snapdragon
Geranium (morning sun) Statice (morning sun)
Globe Amaranth Stock
Impatiens (shade) Zinnia
*May also be grown as a perennial.

12
 PERENNIALS FOR THE LANDSCAPE
Asparagus fern Gaillardia
Black Eyed Susan* Gazania
Chrysanthemum Heliotrope
Coreopsis Lisianthus
Delphinium Marguerite Daisy
Dianthus Michaelmas Daisy*
Dusty Miller Perubian Verbena
Euphorbia rigida Phlox*
Four o’clock Santolina
Foxglove* Stock
*May be purchased as either an annual or perennial

BULBS
A bulb is dormant until it is planted, and will flower under the proper
environmental conditions. Many flowering plants are called "bulbs", but
many of them are actually other plant parts. Different parts are planted at
different times for the best results.

Plant part and definition When to plant Examples

Bulb: Swollen leaf tissue, Fall (from Allium, anemone, Aztec
requires chilling to produce September to lily, Calla lily, crocus,
a flower. It will produce December) day lily, Easter lily,
offshoots from the bulb year freesia, hyacinth,
after year muscari (grape
hyacinth), tulip
Corm: The enlarged fleshy Spring (March Canna, gladiolus (plant
base of a stem. through May) in east after March 15)
Rhizome: a horizontal stem Fall (from Caladium, iris, oxalis
with upright shoots September to
December)
Root: the underground Spring (March Sweet potato
plant organ that transports through May)
water and nutrients from
the soil to the plant.
Tuber: Swollen Spring (March Potato, dahlia
underground stem that through May)
stores starch.

13
 FRUITS and BERRIES
Information from: Bob Scott, Master Gardener

Notes/Recommended
Root Stock
ALMONDS Nemaguard
All-in-One sf 500
Nonpariel pr 400
Price: pollinizer for Nonpariel pr 400
Mission pr 500
Carmel: pollinizer for pr 400
Nonpariel

APPLES
Anna: sweet, crisp sf 200 M7 (2/3 dwarf), or
M111
Dorsett Golden: sweet sf 100 M7, Mlll
Fuji sf <500 M7, Mlll
Gala sf 500 M7, Mlll
Granny Smith: harvests late sf 600 M7, Mlll
Pink Lady: late sf 500 M7, Mlll
Yellow Newton Pippen: sf 600 Mark dwarf, Mlll
cooking apple

APRICOTS Nemaguard
Blenheim (Royal) sf 500 Dries well
Gold Kist sf 300
Katy sf 400
Moorpark sf 600 Canning

GRAPES Own root stock

Black Monukka Seedless sf 100
Flame seedless sf 100
Perlette sf 100 Seedless
Thompson seedless sf 100

NECTARINES, WHITE Nemaguard

Artic Star: early sf 300
Artic Glo: early sf 500
Goldmine: early August sf 400
Snow Queen: freestone, June

NECTARINES, YELLOW Nemaguard

Desert Dawn: May sf 250
Desert Delight: June sf 200
Liz’s Late: August sf 600
Panamint: July sf 250

*sf = self-fruiting; pr = pollinator required

**WCH = Winter chilling hours required to set the crop. Lower WCH in Southern Nevada.
Nemaguard = Nematode resistant root stock
14
 Fruits and Berries for Southern Nevada, cont.

Root Stock
PEACHES (min. = 5 to 6 Nemaguard
foot tree)
Babcock: July sf 250
Tropic snow sf 200
Strawberry Free: freestone sf 450
Bonanza: freestone, June sf 250
Eva’s Pride sf 200
July Elberta sf 500
Mid-Pride: freestone sf 250
Desert Gold: May sf 250
PEARS All pears on pear root
stock
Comice sf 600 Shorter neck than
Bartlett
Hood sf 200
Kieffer: blight resistant sf 350 Takes heat, late to ripen
PEARS, ASIAN
20th Century: August sf 450 Stores well
Shinseiki sf 450 Yellow skin
PERSIMMON
Fuyu sf 200
Hachiya sf 200 Fall harvest, tart until
soft,fruit can be frozen
PLUMS, JAPANESE Nemaguard
Beauty sf 250
Elephant Heart pr 500
Mariposa sf 250
Santa Rosa sf 300
Weeping Santa Rosa sf 400
PRUNES, EUROPEAN Nemaguard
Sugar sf 550 Fresh or canned

POMEGRANATES On own root stock

Sweet Pomegranate sf 100
Wonderful sf 100 Espalier or container
STRAWBERRIES
Lassen Plants last four years,
handles alkali soils,
warm winters
Shasta Strong bearer, firm,
Sequoia Handles alkaline soil
BUSH BERRIES
Blackberries, Boysen Winter: cover canes with
straw
Thornless Logan More tart than Boysen,
canning and pie
Olallie

15
 TURFGRASS MANAGEMENT
IN THE DESERT
Bob Morris, Area Extension Specialist

Most of Southern Nevada is located in the transition zone for

growing lawn grasses. Both the warm season grasses like bermudagrass
and cool season grasses like tall fescue do reasonably well. Hybrid
bermudagrasses are preferred over the common seeded types.
Tall fescue maintains its green color all season long.
Bermudagrasses must be overseeded in mid to late September with a cool
season grass such as perennial ryegrass to maintain green through the
winter.
The biggest objection to lawns in desert landscapes is water
consumption. Anywhere from about 60 to 80 inches of water needs to be
applied annually to lawns to keep them in an acceptable condition. Cool
season grasses require more water than warm season ones. High
nitrogen fertilizer use, mowing high and frequent irrigations all contribute to
excessive water use in lawn grasses.

Irrigation and fertilization

♦ Irrigate lawns in the early morning hours before the wind and
temperatures climb.
♦ Fertilize tall fescue three times each year: Labor Day, Memorial
Day and Thanksgiving. Research has shown that lawns planted
in tall fescue do well with this fertilizer program in combination
with the use of a recycling mower. The Don't Bag It program
focuses on the recycling of lawn clippings back into the lawn
rather bagged for curbside pickup and wasted.
♦ Overseeded bermudagrass should be fertilized at least four times
a year: Labor Day, Fourth of July, Memorial Day and
Thanksgiving. Fertilizers applied to lawns should have a ratio of
nitrogen: phosphorus: potassium of 3:1:2, with at least half of the
nitrogen being in a slow release form. Iron should be present in
the fertilizer.

Common lawn maintenance practices for a healthy and attractive lawn:

♦ Spring weed control.
♦ Spring aerating when needed.
♦ Power raking in the fall when needed
♦ Insect and disease control only when needed.
♦ Most weeds can be prevented in lawns by mowing to appropriate
heights, regular applications of fertilizers and good irrigation
practices.

Because desert climates have a lower disease and insect

incidence than more humid climates, disease and insect control measures
are needed less frequently.

16
 TREES
When selecting a tree, consider the climate as well
as the garden adaptability, and plant the proper way.

Planting

1. Dig a hole that is no deeper than the root ball and at

least three times as wide.
2. Test the hole for adequate drainage by filling the hole
with water. It should drain overnight.
3. Carefully remove the tree from the container and place
it on undisturbed soil.
4. Tease the roots from the root ball surface.
Spread them out in the prepared soil at the proper
depth.
5. Backfill the hole using the soil removed from digging
the hole.
6. Firm the soil lightly as the hole is being filled to
remove air pockets.

Native Deciduous Evergreen

Trees Trees Trees
Catclaw Acacia Desert Sweet Acacia Strawberry Tree
Blue Palo Verde Blue Atlas
Cedar
Western Redbud Desert Willow Carob Tree
Arizona Ash Arizona
Cypress
Desert Willow Rio Grande Ash Italian Cypress
Single Leaf Pinion Thornless Honey Aleppo Pine
Locust
Native Mesquite Mexican Palo Verde Mondel Pine
Screwbean Chinese Pistache Italian Stone
Mesquite Pine
Mesquites Holly Oak
Purple Leaf Plum Heritage Oak
Chinese Elm Swan Hill Olive
Chaste Tree

17
 PALMS
M. L. Robinson, Area Extension Specialist

PLANTING

• Plant palms in late spring to early summer when the soil is warm
and new roots can form quickly. Cold-hardy types, such as
container-grown Windmill (Trachycarpus) and Mediterranean Fan
(Chamaerops), are exceptions and can be planted any time.

• Palms need well-drained soils, but not pure sand. Add organic
materials as mulch, not backfill, with native soil to help establish
roots. Dig the hole only as deep as the root ball and three times as
wide. Break up and aerate the soil to facilitate root production.

• Palms in turf should receive sufficient water from the turf irrigation
after they are established. Do not spray water directly on the trunks
of the palms, as it builds up salt and other mineral residues. To
keep grass from growing too close to the trunks, group palms in
mulched areas. Never use a weed eater next to the trunk, as it can
undercut the trunk and roots.

• Watering is critical in the establishment period. Water palms

immediately after planting. Form a saucer or soil barrier to the edge
of the root ball to hold water. Keep the soil moist but not wet. Never
let a root ball dry out because it is nearly impossible to rewet it.

IRRIGATION

Once established, (which may take a summer for smaller palms and
up to two years with very large field-dug palms) irrigation and
fertilization are essential. Deep watering, as needed, is good for
growing and saves water. Palms grow well with drip and low volume
irrigation, but roots need to be encouraged to grow out and away from
near the trunk. Add emitters as the tree grows, each time moving
further away from the trunk. Under ideal conditions, palms send out
roots eight to ten feet from the trunk for water, nutrients, and oxygen.
If room permits, set a four-foot diameter root area with emitters two to
three feet apart.

FERTILIZATION

A good palm fertilizer is a 3-1-3 fertilizer, (NPK) with magnesium,

manganese, and other micronutrients included. Never apply fertilizer
on or next to the trunk, but broadcast it evenly on the ground under the
canopy. Fertilize spring through later summer.

18
Do not apply large amounts of nitrogen late in the fall and winter. This
promotes tender new growth, which could be damaged by cold.

PRUNING The natural shape formed by the fronds is round or

oval, not upright as with palms that have been pruned incorrectly.
Palms only produce about one frond per month. Palms are often over-
pruned leaving few fronds. This is sometimes called "feather dusting"
or "carrot topping". This ultimately causes the trunk to narrow or
"pencil neck". Fan palms may hold dead fronds for many years.
Unless fronds are a hazard, or present some problem, prune only
yellow, dead, or diseased ones. Over-pruning in the fall and winter
leaves the bud exposed to cold and wind, and in the summer to hot,
drying wind. Shaving and skinning trunks is unnecessary and
unnatural, and may cause wounds that allow insects or disease to
enter. Remove bloom spikes if they are a hazard, or if fertile seeds are
coming up in the landscape. Never allow anyone to climb a palm
using climbing spikes.

Washingtonian palm with full skirt and flower stalks

Incorrect pruning caused “pencil neck” in this palm

19
 PRUNING
Proper pruning is an important way to maintain health and
vigor in trees and shrubs. Remove broken or diseased limbs to keep
pathogens from spreading throughout the plant. A householder may
wish to remove a branch if it is interfering with a house roof or wall, for
instance.

The following is a guide for basic pruning. Several books are

available that give detailed pruning instructions.

• Make sure that the tools (saws, loppers, pruners, shears) are
clean and sharp.
• In order to maintain the conical shape of conifers (pines,
spruces, etc.) do not prune off the center leader. Otherwise, the
tree will become unnaturally bushy at the top.
• Many shrubs look their best when allowed to retain their natural
forms. Give them only a moderate yearly trim ("pinch back") to
keep them bushy and a manageable size.
• Prune spring flowering shrubs in the spring, after they have
finished flowering.
• Prune summer and fall bloomers in early spring.
• Have very large limbs removed by professionals.

NATURAL PRUNING STEPS

l . LOCATE THE BRANCH llAR.X lllDC!

2. FIND ~ - OUTSID& OF BRANCH
:B.\RX 11.IDCE
J. FIND~ - SWEl.l..ING \lH.E.RE BRANCH
M!:ETS BRANCH COLLAR
4. IF B IS HAlU) TO FIND - DROP A LINE AT
AX. . ANCU XA.C • TO ANGLE XAB .
5. STUB BRANCH TO !IE PlUJ'KED
6. MA.KE CUT Kr L INE AB -

Hardwood,

DO NOT
* CUT BEHIND THE. BR.~~ca SARK JU .:ICE

• l..EAVE STt.'BS

* CUT BRA.~CH COLL.AR

Coni f en
From: Dr. Alex Shigo, Northeastern Forest Experiment Station, Durham, NH.
20
 CONCLUSIONS

Having little water, salty soils with low organic matter

and extreme temperatures, Southern Nevada poses
gardening challenges that do not exist in other areas. Many
plants that thrive in other regions will be challenged here.
The intrepid gardener, one who is willing to work with
nature and put in the extra effort, will find that success might
not be easy, but is possible.
As a desert gardener, you might find yourself dealing
with a few common desert gardening problems:
Tomato blossom end rot: Irregular watering causes a
lack of calcium to the fruit. Keep the plants evenly
watered.
Newly planted shrubs or trees do not become
established: Poor drainage caused the plant roots to
rot. Make sure the shrub or tree is planted in a hole
at least three times as wide as its original container.
Also make sure that the shrub or tree is adaptable to
desert temperatures and soils.
Aphids: Common problem, but can usually be washed
off with garden hose.

Books on Desert Gardening:

Western Garden Book, Sunset Publishing Corp., Menlo Park, CA

Plants for Dry Climates, M. R. Duffield and Warren Jones, Fisher
Books, Tucson, AZ
Desert Gardening, George Brookbank, Fisher Books, Tucson, AZ
Low Water Use Plants, Carol Shuler, Fisher Books, Tucson, AZ

21
 The University of Nevada Cooperative
Extension's mission is to discover, develop,
disseminate, preserve, and use knowledge to
strengthen the social, economic,and
environmental well-being of people.

If you have further questions, please contact

our Master Gardener Help Line:
702-257-5555.

Happy Gardening!

University of Nevada Cooperative Extension

8050 Paradise Road, Suite 100
Las Vegas, NV 89123
www.unce.unr.edu

Copyright © 2008, University of Nevada Cooperative Extension.

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