Starting To Scout – Tenderfoot and Second Class Tests

STARTING TO SCOUT

On my honour I promise that I will do my best,

To do my duty to God and the King,
To help other people at all times,
To obey the Scout Law.

Published by
THE CANADIAN GENERAL COUNCIL
OF THE BOY SCOUTS ASSOCIATION
OTTAWA, CANADA
Twenty-Fifth Edition
1944

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TO QUALIFY AS A TENDERFOOT SCOUT A BOY

MUST BE At LEAST 12 YEARS OF
AGE AND –

1. Know the Scout Law.

2. Know the Scout Signs and Salute.
3. Know the composition of the Union Jack, and the correct way to fly it.
4. Know the uses of the Scout staff.
5. Be able, using rope, to tie and explain the special uses of the following knots: Reef,
sheetbend, clove-hitch, bowline, round-turn and two half- hitches, sheepshank. Know
how to whip the ends of a rope.
6. Be invested by his Scoutmaster in the pretence of his fellow Scouts.

TO QUALIFY AS A SECOND CLASS SCOUT A

TENDERFOOT SCOUT MUST –

1. Have had at least one month’s service as a Tenderfoot Scout.

2. Have a knowledge of Health Rules and elementary First Aid.
3. Know the Semaphore (or Morse) alphabet and numerals; send and read simple
message.
4. Follow a track a half mile, or describe the contents of a shop window, or remember
16 out of 24 articles observed for one minute (Kim’s game).
5. Go a mile in 12 minutes at Scouts pace.
6. Lay and light a wood fire in the open, using not more than two matches.
7. Cook in open, over campfire, a quarter-pound of meat (not bacon or weiners) and two
potatoes. The Examiner may require that this be done without utensils.
8. Know and point out the 16 principal points of the compass.

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To the Boy who is Starting to Scout

Every boy’s ambition is to be a truly manly man, upright and honourable in all things, and to
make a good name for himself in the world. A true Scout is always a manly boy, and a manly
boy will grow up to be a manly man.
To be a true Scout you must first take as your foundation the Scout Promise and Law, and do
your best to live up to them. At first this seems to be a hard thing to do, and probably it would be
very hard if you had to do it alone. There are, however, in this great world-brotherhood of
Scouts hundreds and thousands of boys and men earnestly trying their best to obey the law; and
each one of them is willing to lend you a hand and help you through.
Do your best to do a Good Turn to some person every day. No matter what may happen, Keep
Smiling!
Be neat in appearance, both in Scout uniform and your ordinary clothes. Remember that
neatness is one of the signs of business ability first looked for when a boy applies for a position.
The start in life of many a “big man” was his neat appearance.
Study hard at school, and really earn promotion. Be regular and conscientious in the
performance to your religious duties. Be true to your chums, and ever ready to give the other
fellow a helping hand; and do not forget to help Father and Mother at every opportunity.
When preparing for your Tenderfoot and other tests be thorough. Learn to tie the knots
quickly and correctly. A knowledge of knots is always useful; sometimes it is necessary in
saving life at a fire or in a water accident.
Learn your First Aid thoroughly. You may be called upon at any moment to put this into
practice.
Wear your Scout buttonhole badge at all times. Be courteous when speaking to your elders. Be
fair in your sports, clean in your speech and above reproach in your habits.
Get all the fun and health and happiness you can out of Scouting, and see to it that every
camp, bike, troop meeting or rally in which you take part adds something useful to your store of
knowledge. A true Scout always enjoys himself, and at the same time is fitting himself for the
greater future of manhood.
Work hard when you work.
Play well when you play,
DO A GOOD TURN EVERY DAY.

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Tenderfoot Tests

It should be noted that a boy may not wear the Scout buttonhole badge or the Scout Uniform
until he has passed the Tenderfoot Scout Tests. The tests are as follows:
Test No. l. – Know the Scout Law.
THE SCOUT LAW
1. A Scout’s Honour is to be trusted. – If a Scout says, “On my honour it is so,” that
means that it is so, just as if he had taken a most solemn oath. Similarly, if a Scout officer says
to a Scout, “I trust you on your honour to do this,” the Scout is bound to carry out the order to
the very best of his ability, and to let nothing interfere with his doing so.
If a Scout were to break his word of honour by telling a lie, or by not carrying out an order
exactly when trusted on his honour to do so, he may be directed to hand over his Scout badge and
never to wear it again.
2. A Scout is loyal, to the King and to his officers, to his parents, his country, his
employers, or to his employees, and to his comrades. He must stick to them through thick and
thin, against anyone who is their enemy, or who even talks badly of them.
3. A Scouts duty is to be useful and to help others. And he is to do his duty before
anything else, even at the cost of his own pleasure, or comfort, or safety. When he finds it
difficult to decide which of two things to do, he must ask himself, “Which is my duty?” that is,
“Which is best for other people?” – and do that. He must Be Prepared at any time to save life,
or to help injured persons. And he must try to do at least one good turn to somebody every day.
4. A Scout is a friend to all, and a brother to every other Scout. – Thus if a Scout
meets another Scout, even though a Stranger to him, he must speak to him, and help him in any
way that he can – aid him in carrying out some task, give him food, or, as far as possible,
anything that he may be in need of. A Scout must never be a snob. A snob is one who looks
down upon another because he is poorer, or one who is poor and who resents another because be
is rich. A Scout accepts the other boy as he finds him, and makes the best of him.
5. A Scout is courteous. – That is, be is polite to all, but especially to women and children,
old people, invalids and cripples. And he must not take any reward for being helpful or
courteous. In a word, a Scout is at all times a gentleman.
6. A Scout is a friend to animals. – He should save them as far as possible from pain, and
should not kill any animal unnecessarily. Killing an animal for food or an animal which is
harmful is allowable.
7. A Scout obeys orders of his parents, Patrol Leader or Scoutmaster without
question. – Even if he is given an order he does not like, he must carry it out. Afterward he
may state any reasons against it; but when the order is given, he must carry it out – at once.
That is discipline,
8. A Scout smiles and whistles under all difficulties. – When he gets an order, he should
obey it cheerfully and readily. Scouts never grumble at hardships, nor find fault with one
another, nor swear when put out, but always “carry on,” whistling and smiling.
9. A Scout is thrifty. – That is, he is always ready to earn money honestly (which, of course,
does not mean accepting a “tip” for a good turn), and he does not spend it foolishly or needlessly.
Instead, he should place it in the bank against a time of need, or to help himself through college,
or to start himself in business when older. Many young men are unable to start college or to take

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advantage of excellent business opportunities because they lack capital which they might have
possessed had they but saved a little each year when they were boys.
10. A Scout is clean in thought, word and deed. – That is, he will avoid the company of
boys who persist in unclean talk or telling unclean stories, and he will not permit himself to
think or do anything that is not pure and clean and manly.
Test No. 2. – Know the Scout Signs and Salute.

THE SCOUT SIGNS

Road to be followed.

Letter hidden three (or other number) paces from here in direction of arrow.
(Place figure in square to indicate other distances.)

This path not to be followed.

I have gone home.

Scout signature of Scout No, 3 of the Wolf Patrol of the 1st Carfow Troop.

THE SCOUT SALUTE

A Scout salutes with his right hand, (Figure 1, below) when either with or without a
hat. The three fingers remind him of his three Scout promises: To do his best to –
1. – Do his duty to God and the King.
2; – To help other people at all times.
3. – To obey the Scout Law.
Figure 2 below shows the salute used when standing at the “Alert” with staff, and Figure 3
when marching.

Fig. l. Fig. 2. Fig. 3.

When his hands are occupied, a Scout salutes by turning his head and eyes smartly to the
right or left as the case maybe. When riding a bicycle, a Scout salutes in a similar manner.
When an officer approaches a group of Scouts, the senior Scout present will call the party to
the alert, and himself salute.
When meeting one another for the first time in the day Scouts, or Scouts and leaders, salute;
the first to see the other being the first to raise the hand, irrespective of rank.
Scouts and Guides salute each other when in uniform.
Scouts salute at the hoisting of the Union Jack, and when the National Anthem is being
played.

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Scouts always salute a funeral, when the hearse is passing, and when in civilian clothes raise
their hats.
Remember that Scouts shake hands with the left hand when shaking hands with brother
Scouts.

Test No. 3. – Know the composition of the Union Jack and the correct way to fly it.

THE UNION JACK AND THE RIGHT WAY TO

FLY IT

The Union Jack is the national flag of the British Empire, and is made up of the old national
flags of the three former kingdoms of England, Scotland and Ireland. In 1606 King James VI. of
Scotland, who was also King James I. of England, added to the flag of Scotland (which was a
blue flag with the white diagonal cross of St. Andrew), a red cross with a white border to
represent the flag of England (which was a white flag with the red cross of St. George). Thus
the Scottish and English flags were blended to form the first British Union flag.
The word “Jack” came from the ancient name “jacque,” given the shirt worn by soldiers over
their armour, to distinguish them in the confusion of battle. Usually the shirt bore the cross of
the Patron Saint of the soldier’s country. Thus a soldier in a white shirt with a red cross was
known to be an Englishman, fighting under the “Jacque of St. George.”

The flag of St George, a red cross on a white ground.

The flag of St. Andrew, a white diagonal cross on a blue ground.
The flag of St. Patrick, a red diagonal cross on a white ground.

In 1801 the red diagonal cross, retaining a portion of its white ground (or field), representing
the white flag with the red cross of St. Patrick of Ireland, wu added to the flag, making the
Union Jack of Great Britain and Ireland-1— and now of tile > whole

The wrong way to fly the flag. The right way to fly the flag.

If the candidate will carefully examine a Union Jack he will notice that the red diagonal arms
of the flag have a narrow white band on one side of them and a broad band on the other. When
the flag is being used, the broad band should be to the top of the flag on the side nearest the flag-
pole, that is, the “hoist” of the flag; and towards the bottom of the flag in the free end, or, as it is
called the “fly”. The picture on the left shows the wrong way to fly the flag, and the one on the
right the correct way.
On holidays and other occasions when flags are flying, Scouts should take particular notice to
see that none are up-side down, If they observe one, they should go to the owner, explain that
the flag as he is flying it is a signal of distress, and show him how it should be flown.

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Test No. 4. – Know the uses of the Scout staff.

USES OF SCOUT STAFF

There are many uses for the Scout staff, and any Scout who will sit down and think about it
will be able to prepare a very long list of them. The following, however, are a few of the more
important uses which every Scout should know:
1. Measuring distances. (The staff is five feet six inches in length and is marked off in feet
and inches, like a measuring stick.)
2. Improvising stretchers.
3. Jumping ditches.
4. Self-defence.
5. Tent pole for small tent.
6. Making a shelter framework.
7. Feeling way over rough or marshy ground.
8. Forming fences to keep back crowds at fires, along lines of processions and street parades,
in cases of accident, etc.
9. Improvising flag pole at camp.
10. Bridge-building.
When carrying his staff through the streets, the Scout should do it in a way that will not
annoy or endanger other persons. And be should not use it as a club to strike every innocent
curbstone, fire hydrant or tree he passes.

Test No. 5. – Be able to tie the following knots – Reef, skeet bend, clove hitch, bowline,
round-turn and two half-hitches, sheep-shank – and explain their special uses. – Know how to
whip the ends of a rope.

SCOUT KNOTS AND THEIR USES

A Scout learns to tie knots and to use rope because he knows that thousands of lives have
been saved with ropes. And he also knows that many, many lives have been sacrificed to ill-
made knots. The Scout should therefore be prepared and when necessity demands be able to tie
the right knot in the right way. He should practice the knots with a long rope, not with strings.
There are three qualities to a good knot: 1. The rapidity with which it can be tied. 2. Its
ability to hold fast when under strain. 3. The readiness with which it can be undone.
In order that he may more clearly understand the descriptions which follow, the Scout must
constantly remember that the three principal parts of % rope are:

PARTS OF A ROPE

1. The Standing Part – The long unused portion (S in Fig. I) of the rope on which he works;
2. The Bight – The loop (B) formed whenever the rope is turned back upon itself; and,
3. The End, or Free End – The part (E) he uses in leading. Before proceeding with the
Tenderfoot requirements the Scout should first learn the two primary knots – the overhand and
figure-of-eight knots.

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The Overhand Knot. – The overhand knot is the simplest knot made. It is very important,
however, since it forms a part of many other knots. It is made by simply making a loop in the
rope and passing one end, as a, through the loop, thus forming the right-hand knot, as shown in
Fig. 2. If the loop at x is made to pass behind b, the end a will pass through the loop from this
side and will form the left hand knot. The overhand is used principally in connection with other
knots and in making hitches and splices. Used alone, it will draw tight.

Figure of Eight Knot

This knot is made by making a loop
in the rope by passing the standing
part b at x as shown in Fig. 3. The
end a is then passed beneath the
standing part b and is brought
back through the loop y. It is
drawn tight by pulling on the
standing part (Fig. 4). The knot is
used on the ends of ropes to prevent
them from slipping through a pulley
or hole.

The Reef Knot. – Sometimes called the Square Knot. The commonest knot for joining the
ends of two ropes, and probably the knot that is most often made, is the sailor’s true knot or reef
knot. In making it care should be taken not to make a granny knot (Fig. 7). The reef knot
holds. The granny knot may slip, or if it holds may be very difficult to untie.

First the right-hand

form of the overhand
knot (Fig. 5.) then cross
the strands (a in front of
b) and tie the left hand
overhand knot. Notice
that the ropes leave the
loops together (Fig, 6).
The reef knot can be
quickly and easily
untied, and is secure and
reliable except when it is
made of rope of different
sizes. The ease with
which the knot can be
tied and untied makes it
very useful in reefing sails, and its smoothness and secure character makes it of use to the farmer in
fastening the ends of binder twine when threading the binder.

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The Sheet Bead. – The sheet bend is a knot used for tying together ropes of different sizes. It
is frequently used by sailors to “bend” a “hand line,” or throwing line, to the heavy hauser of a
vessel that is being docked, so that the hauser may be pulled ashore. In making the sheet bend
the ends of the two ropes are not used simultaneously, as in the making of a reef knot. Instead,
a loop, or bight, is formed in the end of the larger rope, as in Fig. 8. The second rope’s end is
passed under the loop (Fig. 9) at point A, and is brought up through the loop. The end of this
rope is then taken round the outside of B and C (Fig. 10) and passed under itself.

The Double Sheet Bend (Fig. 11) will hold still better, and is less likely to jamb than the
ordinary sheet bend. It is made in the same manner, except that the second rope is taken twice
around the loop before passing under itself.

The Clove Hitch – This is perhaps the most used and at once the most useful of all the
hitches, as it will take a strain in either direction without slackening. It is used for mooring
ships, heads of derricks for guy lines, and all kinds of rigging work, and it is always used for
commencing and finishing a lashing. It is easily undone. There are many ways to tie it, but
every Scout should at least know how to tie it around a pole.

Holding the standing part in the left hand, the end should be passed around the pole, over
standing part, around pole again and finally lead underneath the last turn. After this the hitch
should be pulled tight. The result will be as in Fig. 12.

The Bowline. – The bowline is without question the most useful and the most important of
the different knots. It is easily tied, will not slip or draw tight and may be easily untied. It is
used in fastening animals, has been used many times in lowering persons from burning buildings,
and is often used by sailors in mooring their ships; hence the name bowline, from the line being
fastened to the bow of the vessel. Of the several ways of tying the bowline, the overhand method
is perhaps the quickest and the easiest.

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With the right hand on the end of the rope and the left on the bight, in the position as shown
in Fig. 13, make a loop by bringing the left hand around the end of the rope, as indicated by the
direction of the arrow in Fig. 13. Now, with the left hand hold the loop in place. Grasping the end
of the rope a with the right hand, bring it around beneath the standing part (b in Fig. 15) and
back through the loop c.

Round Turn and Two Half Hitches. – The readiness with which this knot may
be tied, with either light or heavy rope; its security, and the ease with which it
may be freed, makes it an excellent knot for securing a towing rope to a disabled
automobile, and for similar purposes.
The illustration (Fig. 17) explains clearly. It is important to note that the two
half hitches should be exactly similar; that is, if the free end passes first over
and then under the standing part in the first half hitch, it should follow the same
course in the making of the second.

The Sheepshank. – for shortening ropes of any size, either temporarily or

permanently, there is no form of fastening that is more satisfactory than the
sheepshank. This hitch is made by grasping the rope in the left hand, then
bringing it up with the right hand so as to form a loop large enough to reduce
the rope to the desired length (Fig. 18) The ropes are then held in the left hand
as in Fig. 18, a half hitch is made with the right hand (Fig. 19) and passed over the end (Fig.
20).

Reversing the rope, grasp the other end in the left hand as shown in Fig, 18 and complete the
hitch as described in Figs. 19 and 20. Fig. 21 shows the temporary sheepshank completed. To

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make a permanent shortening the ends are passed through the bights or toggled as shown in Fig,
22. Sometimes the ends are whipped to the bights with binder twine, or else the overhand knot
is used. The Sheepshank should be practiced with both ends of the rope made fast, except when
toggling as in Fig. 22.
Whipping. – Fold back three inches.of the twine, lay the bight that formed on the end of the
rope, and hold in place with the dumb. Wind twine toward end of rope, about both bight and,
rope. Pass the end through the bight loop. Pull other end until loop is half way under the
whipping, and cut off surplus twine.

THE SCOUT PROMISE

When the candidate for the rank of Tenderfoot Scout has pitted all the above tests to the
satisfaction of his Scoutmaster he makes the following promise in the presence of those who
are to be his Scout officers and fellow Scouts:

On my honour I promise that I will do my beat

To do my duty to God and the King,
To help other people at all times, and
To obey the Scout Law.

He is then a Tenderfoot Scout and is permitted to wear the Scout Badge and the
Scout Uniform.

Second Class Tests

By means of the Second Class requirements it is hoped that Scouts will cultivate in themselves
habits of observation, resourcefulness, thrift and the ability to adapt themselves to conditions so
that they may better “be prepared” for future service to others. It is important that these
requirements be thoroughly mastered, as it is only the daily exercise of any virtue that it
becomes a habit of life. Permanent good to ourselves as a result of what we learn will follow
only after habits are formed, for it is the habit that serves us in times of need.

Test No. 1. – Have at least one month’s service as a Tenderfoot.

This test requires that the candidate for the rank of Second Class Scout shall put in one
month’s service in the Troop after completing his Tenderfoot Tests and making the Scout
Promise. Of course a boy who fails to live up to the Scout Promise and Law should never be
granted advancement.

Test No. 2. – (a) Knowing the general rules of health given in “Scouting for Boys”.
(b) Be able to deal with simple First Aid problems as follows: – Scratches and Cuts. Bruises
and sprains. Burns and scalds. Grit in the eye. Bleeding from the nose. Stings and animal bites.
(c) Know how to clean a wound and apply a clean dressing.

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(d) Have a knowledge of the triangular bandage and how to apply it to different parts of the
body (not for fractures).

ELEMENTARY FIRST AID

The fate of a person injured, or taken suddenly ill, frequently dreads upon the actions of the
first person to reach him. Every year there are lost many precious lives which might have been
saved by prompt and intelligent aid.
First Aid is the emergency treatment of accidents and cases of sadden illness and the making
use of materials at hand pending the arrival of a doctor.
Scouts are taught First Aid, not with the idea of their becoming amateur doctors, but that they
may be able, intelligently and immediately, to give assistance in case of accident. In order that they
may be able to keep to their promise to “Help other people at all times,” Boy Scouts must be
prepared to help when help is most needed – that is when persons have been injured or rendered
helpless by accident or sickness.
A Scout who is faced with the duty of acting in an accident case must keep cool, must not
rush; must remember that the patient is of first importance; must keep persons who are not
helping him away from the patient; must not let himself be guided by the general advice of
bystanders. He must send for a doctor at once, unless sure that what he can do will fully meet
the need.
It is necessary that every Scout before attempting First Aid should know and understand
something of the cause of infection of wounds and its prevention. The majority of Scouts will
be called upon to dress minor injuries, such as cuts, abrasions and burns, many times before they
render First Aid in one case of fractured bones. Serious results and sometimes death more often
follow the former when prompt and efficient aid is not rendered.

What is Infection?
Infection is the entrance into the body of living organisms or bacteria which are capable of
multiplying in the living body, and producing a diseased condition of a part or the whole body,
which may result in death. These bacteria, or germs may enter the body through a slight scratch
or pin prick, so Scouts should remember no wound is too slight to receive immediate careful
attention.
Scratches and Cuts. – All scratches should be promptly treated with iodine or mercurol. Every
year deaths occur from blood-poisoning caused by scratches that were thought not worth
bothering about. Slight cuts should be treated in the same way, and covered with adhesive tape,
or a bandage. In case of puncture by a nail, pin or wood splinter, the wound should first be
made to bleed by squeezing or sucking with the lips. More serious cuts should be washed with
water that has been boiled, or water containing an antiseptic such as Lysol, then bandage. Before
treating a cut the hands should be thoroughly washed; and care should be taken not to touch that
part of the gauze or bandage which is placed directly over the wound.
Bruises and Sprains. – A bruise is the result of a blow which causes bleeding beneath the
skin. A “black eye” is an example. Apply ice or cold water dressings. Lint soaked in witch
hazel also is good.
A joint is said to be sprained when by a wrench or twist the muscles around it have been
stretched and torn. Turning the ankle is a common form of sprain. The injured member should
be placed in a comfortable position and treated promptly if possible with alternate hot and cold
applications, then bound tightly.
Burns and Scalds. – Immediately exclude air, placing the injured part in water at the
temperature of the body until suitable dressings can be procured. A dessertspoonful of baking
soda to a pint of warm water will make a soothing lotion, and will serve to soak off any adherent
clothing and should be used if available. Dress the wound by applying strips of lint, linen or

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gauze soaked in a clear solution of baking soda of similar strength and warmth. This dressing
should be kept moist until medical aid is obtained. If it is not possible to apply the treatment
mentioned cover the part with cotton wool and bandage lightly. The Scout first aid kits contain an
excellent burn emolient, with directions for its use.
Grit in the Eye. – Do not rub the affected eye. Pull down the lower lid, and if the foreign
body is seen remove it with the moistened corner of a, handkerchief. If the foreign substance is
under the upper lid, draw the lid outward, push the lower lid up beneath, draw down and let go.
The hair of the lower lid will thus usually dislodge the substance. Repeat if necessary. If this
fails, roll the lid back over a match, when the foreign body may be seen. If all efforts fail, take
the patient to a doctor. Close the eye and apply an unfolded handkerchief very gently. One or
two drops of castor or olive oil in the eye will have a soothing effect.
Bleeding from the Hose. – Place the patient in a sitting position before an open window,
with the head thrown slightly back and the hands raised above the head. Undo all tight clothing
around the neck and chest and apply cold applications to the nose and back of neck. Cause the
patient to keep the mouth open, to avoid breathing through the nose.
Insect Stings. – Extract the sting if present. Mop the part freely with tincture of iodine or
dilute ammonia. A paste of baking soda or wet salt is an efficient application. A solution of
washing soda (a dessertspoonful to a pint of water) will relieve pain. Clean wet earth may be
used when on the hike.
Animal Bites. – A bite from an animal may have serious results and should be treated
carefully. Skin punctures should be made to bleed, and iodine applied thoroughly. The bite of a
mad dog is one of the most serious of all wounds, and should be given instant attention. Where
the bite is on the hand or one of the limbs, encourage bleeding. If on the face or chest, suck the
wound, provided the lips are not sore. Get the patient to a doctor as quickly as possible.
Sprained Ankle. – When this accident occurs on the hike, bandage snugly over the shoe, and
convey the person home for treatment. If it occurs in camp, remove shoe and give immediate
treatment of hot and cold applications alternately, for
ten or fifteen minutes. Dry, and apply a broad
adhesive bandage beneath the instep, draw snugly
up on either side of the ankle, slit both ends with a
sharp knife, and cross before and behind the leg.
Over this apply a snugly-drawn roller or triangular
bandage.
The Triangular Bandage. In First Aid work
bandages are used to keep dressings in place, to stop
bleeding by pressure, to fix splints in place and as
slings to support injured parts. There are several
kinds of bandages, but the one which most concerns
the Scout preparing himself for the Second Class
tests is the Triangular bandage. It is made by cut-
ting a piece of cotton thirty-six to forty inches
square into two triangles; that is, from corner to
corner. Or it may be improvised by folding the
Scout neckscarf or any similar piece of cloth.
The accompanying illustrations show how the
bandage is folded, and the names given to the
different parts of it.

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Fastening the Bandage. All bandages are tied with the reef
knot, because it will not slip, is easy to untie and also because it lies
flat and therefore gives the patient the minimum of discomfort. Pins
are sometimes used to fasten bandages, but care must be taken to
see that they are properly fixed or they may pierce the patient’s
flesh.
The Large Arm Sling. To make a large arm sling spread out
the bandage on the front of the patient’s body (see illustration).
Carry one end over shoulder on
uninjured side and bring it round
behind the neck so that the end just
hangs over in front of the shoulder on
the injured side. Carefully place the
point behind the elbow of the injured
limb, then gently bend the limb across
the centre of the bandage. Bring up the
second end and tie it to the end that
hangs in front of the patient’s
shoulder, the knot to be at the side and
not at the back of the neck. The sling
thus formed should support the arm so
that the little finger is slightly above the level of the elbow. Now
bring the point forward around the elbow and fasten it with a
safety pin.
The Small Arm Sling. To make a small arm sling fold a
triangular bandage as a broad bandage. Lay one end across the un-
injured shoulder and
carry it around the
back of the neck to
the injured side. Then bend the elbow and,
supporting the forearm, wrist and hand with the
bandage, bring up the lower end and tie to the
upper end, the knot to be in the same position as
in the broad fold bandage.
Arterial Bleeding. – Blood coming from an
artery may be distinguished by the fact that it is
bright red in colour, it comes out in spurts or
juicy jets, with some force; and it comes from the
side of as open wound nearest to the heart.
Only prompt action will prevent death in
most cases of arterial bleeding, so the Scout must
know what to do when he finds the above
symptoms present. He should immediately apply
pressure with the thumb or fingers directly on
the bleeding spot, except where there is a
fracture.
Next he will use his free hand to make a firm
pad with a clean handkerchief or piece of linen
and place it beneath his thumb upon the bleeding
spot, being careful not to release his pressure in

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doing so. He will then tie it tightly into place with a handkerchief or narrow bandage and secure
the limb in an elevated position.
When this does not result in stopping the bleeding, a tourniquet most be applied. This may be
used around the upper arm just below the arm-pit, around the leg just below the groin, or below
the calf in the case of a cut in the foot. To improvise and supply a tourniquet apply a firm pad on
the pressure point. Encircle the limb by a narrow bandage or strap with its centre over the pad,
and tie the ends in a half knot on the opposite side. Lay a short strong stick or other similar
object on the half knot, and over it tie a reef knot. Twist the stick to tighten the bandage,
thereby pressing the pad upon the artery, and arresting the flow of blood. Lock the stick in
position by the ends of the bandage already applied or by another bandage placed around the
stick and limb.

Care must be taken not to pinch the skin as the tourniquet is tightened.
To prevent what the doctors call “gangrene setting in” a tourniquet must be loosened slightly
once every half hour or so in order to let a little fresh blood into the affected part. Otherwise,
the limb below the tourniquet will turn a dark bluish colour because you have shut off the
circulation, and you know where there is no circulation death results. It is a fact that persons
have lost their limbs and even their lives through the ignorance in this regard of persons who
were doing what they thought to be the proper thing to help them. In practice work, never
tighten a tourniquet other than momentarily.
To Carry a Patient. – There are many ways in which a patient can be carried. Two boys
together with their hands can improvise the two, three and four-hand “chair carries” and Scouts
should practice these until they are sure they could manage them in case of real necessity.
The ideal way to carry a patient is, of course, on a stretcher; but as a stretcher is seldom at
hand, one may have to be improvised. A door, a shutter, a gate or boards will do. The favorite
scout stretcher is made of two Scout staves (or two poles) and two coats or heavy shirts. The
sleeves of the coats or shirts are turned inside out, the poles passed up through the sleeves, and
the coats or shirts buttoned.

When carrying a patient, stretcher bearers must always “break step”. This means that they
should not walk in step with each other.

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Test No. 3. – Know the Semaphore (or Morse) sign for every letter in the alphabet and for the
numerals and be able to send and read a simple message.

To pass this test, it is not sufficient merely to know the alphabet. The Scout should be able
to send and read any letter given, and a few short easy words and numbers.

SEMAPHORE
Semaphore is a method of signalling in which the letters are indicated by the position of the
arms and hands, or of flags, in relation to the body. In the open this rapid and simple means of
communication is principally used at short distances, and is particularly useful to Scouts when on
hikes and camping trips. For distant signalling flags are necessary, but for short distances and for
practicing the hands alone may be used. When using the hands, they should be extended at full
reach, and held flat to the front.
When sending semaphore the signaller must always face the distant station squarely. When
not actually sending, the arms or flags should hang crossed in front of the body, at the “Ready.”

Learning the Alphabet

The simplest method of learning the alphabet and other signs is by circles, thus:

1st Circle – A to G.
2nd “ – H. to N, omitting J.
3rd “ – O to S.
4th “ – T, U, Y and “Erase.”
5th “ – “Numerical Sign”; J (which is also used as the “Alphabetical Sign”) and V.
6th “ – W and X.
7th “ – Z.

The signs A to K (omitting J) are read as the numerals 1 to 10 when the group in which they
occur are preceded by the “Numerical Sign.” When the sender is through sending numerals and
desires to return to letters, he will send the “Alphabetical Sign.”
At drill, all letters and signs will be made with the arms in positions shown in the diagram. O,
for instance, will be invariably made with the right arm at the position of B and the left at the
position of C. When not at drill, however, the letters should be formed in the most convenient
manner; thus in sending the word “who,” the O may be made from the H either by moving both
arms through 45 degrees or by keeping the one at B steady and moving that at A to C. But in
making letters where only one arm is used, that arm should not be brought across the body; thus
in making the letter C alone, the right should be employed.
When letters follow one another, as in a word or group, the flags will not be brought back to
ready after each letter, but if the arm is already in position to form or assist in forming the next,
it will be kept steady. Thus to send the word “can,” the right arm is first placed at C, after a
slight pause brought down to A and kept steady, and after a similar slight pause the left is placed
at G, which with the right at A, forms the next letter required, -viz., N.

Points to be Remembered
At the start every Scout should realize that after a little practice anyone can easily read the
Semaphore, provided it is accurately sent; that is to say, provided the signaller attends strictly
to the following points:
1) He must stand exactly facing the person or station he is tending to, firmly on both feet,
the feet to be eight to ten inches apart.

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2) The flags must be held to full extent of the arms, and the arm and flag should form one
straight line – no drooping from the wrist. Have the first finger of each hand lying along the
pole.
3) Do not throw the arms to the rear.
4) Be very careful to place the arms in the exact positions for the letters. This is the most
important point. It is difficult to read bad or careless sending.
5) When making the letters T, O, W, and the Numerical Sign the flags must be separated,
and not covering one another.
6) The signaller should turn slightly on the hips when making such letters as I, X, &c., but
the eyes must continue to look straight to the front.
7) When double letters occur the flags are to be brought well in to the body after the first letter
is made.
8) Don’t send too fast, and never send faster than it is within the powers of the reader to read
without confusion. It only means waste of time through repetitions.
When a Scout has mastered the Semaphore alphabet, signs and numerals, is able to read and
send all of them, and has schooled himself in the above rules, he will be ready to proceed with
the more advanced Semaphore work outlined for the First Class test.

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MORSE
In the Morse system letters are formed by what are called “dots” and “dashes.” In signalling,
these signs are conveyed by several different means, but the difference is quite easily
distinguished by the time taken in making them. Whatever the means used, or whatever the
rate of sending, the dash is always three times the length of the dot. This is a most important
point and most be strictly attended to.
Of the two codes, Morse and Semaphore, Morse is by far the most useful, although it is
somewhat harder, perhaps, for the Scout to master. Morse messages may be seat by sound – on
the telegraph, field telephone, wireless, by bell, by buzzer, by whistle, etc.; by light – on the
heliograph in the day time or with lamps at night; by puffs of smoke and by special
devices such as shutters and flags. And every Scout with a good imagination will be able
to invent for himself still other devices. He will, however, first want to learn how to use
the Morse flag.
In Morse Work with flags there are two
positions – “Prepare to Signal” and “Ready”
– and two movements – “Dot” and “Dash” –
which must first be learned.
Figure A, – “Prepare to Signal.” Hold the
pole in the right hand about six inches from the
butt, gather in the flag with the left hand
opposite the right at the same time carry the
left foot about twelve inches to the left,
balancing the weight of the body equally on
both feet.
F i g u r e B. – “Ready.” Raise the flag from
position A, and allow it to fly, the left hand
grasping the butt of pole, which should be level
with chin and eight inches from it, right hand in
the same position as in the “Prepare to signal.”
The elbows should be free from the body, and
the eyes looking to the front.
Figure C. – “Dot.” Pivot the pole between
the hands and bring it smartly from the “Ready” position to a corresponding position on the
opposite side of the body, and back smartly to the “Ready” position again without pausing.
Fig D. – “Dash.” Bring the pole from the “Ready” position smartly to a position just below
the horizontal, pause slightly and return to “Ready” position.
There are several systems of mastering the alphabet. The following will be found effective.
Progress will be most rapid where two or more boys work together, using a buzzer. (This can be
improvised with a door buzz-bell a dry cell and a few lengths of wire, connected as for a
doorbell, with two wire-ends arranged so they can be tapped against one another.) Where a
buzzer is not available, whistling makes a good substitute. Practice the letters by successive
groups, making up words containing only those letters, or including the letters of previous
groups.
To distinguish it from the “Morse Code” used by commercial telegraph systems in Canada and
the United States (11 letters and 9 figures of which are quite different from the above) this code
is called “Continental Morse.” In connection with wireless it is also called “Universal Morse”
and “International Morse.” In wireless it is the universal code.

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When reading or calling out letters signalled in any code, the letters, A, B, C, D, E, I, J,
M, P, Q, S, T and V are called Ack, Beer, Cork, Don, Eddy, Ink, Jug, Emma, Pip, Quad, Esses,
Toc, and Vic, to distinguish them from similar sounding letters. The other letters of the alphabet
should be called by their ordinary names.
Another good way to learn or practice the alphabet, although on paper it looks funny, and
when it is first heard sounds even funnier, is to call dots “iddy,” and dashes “umpty.” This gives
really the sound made by the telegraph sounder. For instance, take P, it would be called “iddy
umpty umpty iddy,” with strong emphasis always on the “umpties.”

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Test No. 4. – Follow a track half a mile in twenty-five minutes; or if this is impossible, describe
satisfactorily the contents of one shop window out of four, observed for one minute each; or, Kim’s
Game, to remember sixteen out of twenty-four well assorted articles after one minute’s
observation. (Note, – It is wise that boys should be trained, in both trailing and Kim’s Game.)

Observation Tests
These are the Boy Scout “observation” tests. Their practice will sharpen the eye and quicken
the wits, and increase the ability to remember in detail things which have been seen.
Following a Track. – For the first practice the old game of Hare and Hounds is a good one,
but afterwards the Scout will want to follow some more difficult trail, such as that made by
another Scout with heel plates, or other special markings on his boots. And later on he will be
interested in the trails made by animals. On every hike opportunities for practice in tracking
should be taken advantage of. It is always good fun.
Stop Window Test. – Here again practice alone will make perfect. For practice an alternative
test would be to observe and remember the objects in a room, or the advertising cards in a street
car, or the posters on a large bill board.
Kim’s Game. – For this game, twenty-four well-assorted small objects, such as pen points,
pencils, nuts, erasers, screws, piece of cloth, bits of paper, etc., are placed upon a table and
covered with a cloth or paper. The cover is afterwards removed for one minute, during which
time the Scouts stand and observe the articles. The cover is then replaced, and the Scouts note
down as many of the articles as they can recall. At first the number remembered will probably be
small, but practice will rapidly develop the power to observe and remember. Ultimately some
Scouts will be able to name an entire list of new articles.
Another way to play the game is to use pictures cut from old catalogues or magazines.

Test No. 5. – Go a mile in 12 minutes at Scout’s Pace.

SCOUT’S PACE
Scout’s Pace is 20 steps running and 20 steps walking alternately. It is a method of travel
which permits of endurance when covering a long distance. To pass the test, it should be noted
that the mile is to be done in twelve minutes, or within thirty seconds of twelve minutes. This
is not an athletic feat or a record for the distance, because almost any Scout could if he tried,
cover the distance in eight minutes. The boy who does it in less than 11½ minutes fails equally
with the boy who takes 15 minutes to do it. The object of the test is to practice the Scout’s
Pace until a Scout knows that whenever he keeps up that given pace for twelve minutes he has
covered exactly one mile. Or, on the other hand, a Scout should know that whenever he has
covered one mile at that given pace he has taken just exactly twelve minutes to do it. It is a
measure of distance and time rather than a record for the mile. Scouts will find that this test
requires lots of practice and that to pass it successfully they need to have plenty of body stamina
and self-control.

Test No. 6. – Lay and light a wood fire in the open using not more than two matches.

FIRE LIGHTING
It is intended that this fire should be one suitable for use for cooking purposes and the test
fire should be built up sufficiently to boil a pint of water. It should be started without using
more than two matches, and without any reliance upon prepared kindlings, paper or oil.
One of the most reliable fire starters is the fuzz-stick. This is a piece of dry pine or other soft
dry wood, about a foot in length and an inch in thickness, whittled into the likeness of a shaving
brush, but with the end extending beyond the shavings, and sharpened. The sharpened end is
stuck into the ground, and the kindling piled about it, tentwise.

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In dry weather this test will not give the Scout much trouble but in wet weather he will have
to know where proper fuel can be secured. Material will most quickly be secured from a
standing dead sapling preferably pine or some other resinous wood, or from a pine stump.
Lighting the match is as important as laying the fire. During wet weather something to strike
a light upon usually can be found in the pockets, even if the clothing is damp. The inner side of
a leather belt may serve.
When lighting a match in the wind, face the wind, form a cup with the hands, the backs of
the hands toward the wind, and point the match toward the wind in the cup. The flame will
then run up the match stick instead of blowing away from it.

Test No. 7. – Cook a quarter of a pound of meat and two potatoes without cooking utensils,
other than the regulation billy or its equivalent, in the open, over camp fire if possible.

COOKING
This means, of course, that your cooking must be done in the open upon a fire similar to the
one which you built with your two matches, and under conditions which usually exist in the
woods or on the prairie while camping.
The quarter pound of meat and two potatoes must not only be cooked – they most be
properly cooked, and then served together as a meal and eaten. The use of frankfurters and
sausages should not be allowed when the test meal is being prepared. Steaks or chops can be
cooked beautifully on a forked stick, but a bed of coals, not a flaming fire, must be used.
Potatoes may be covered with mud or clay and roasted in hot coals. Another way of
roasting is to dig a small hole, build a hot fire in it, remove the fire and put in potatoes. Cover
lightly with hot earth or ashes. Replace fire and boom it 40 to 50 minutes. Because potatoes
take longer than meat to cook, they should be started about fifteen minutes before the meat, if
the frying-pan or clay-bake method is to be used.
A properly cooked potato is soft but not burned on the surface.

Test No. 8. – Know and point out the sixteen principal points of the compass.

POINTS OF THE COMPASS

The Scout wants to know the points of the compass because he needs to know them when
hiking; because he has to use then when map-making; because he has to refer to them when
passing his Pathfinder tests, and because they form the basis for much of the Seascouting work
which he may want to take up later.
The points of the compass should not be learned by mere memorizing. The compass, on the
other hand, should be learned by beginning with the four cardinal points – North, South, East
and West, and progressing through the smaller divisions. The Scout, long before he became a
Scout, probably knew that if he faced North, his back was to South and that West was on his left
and East upon his right.
The next division is mid-way between those cardinal points; these points are North-East (N
E), South-East (S E), South-West (S W) and North-West (N W). These are called the half
cardinal points.
The next division is between the ordinal and half cardinal points; these points are called
the intermediate or three letter points, and there are eight of them altogether. Starting from
North towards East, the first of these points is half way between North and North-East and is
called North North-East (N N E). The next is between North East and East and is called East
North-East (E N E), that is two Easts to one North which means that it is nearer East than to
North. When an intermediate point begins with East or West the two Easts or the two Wests
never come together. To continue round the compass the next intermediate point is East South-
East (E S E), then South South-East (S S E), South South-West (S S W), West South-West

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(W S W) West North-West (W N W) and North North-West (N N W). This completes the

16 principal points required for Second Class test.

The Second Class Badge is granted by the Local Association (or the
Croup Committee where there is no Local Association) upon the
recommendation of the Scoutmaster. It is embroidered in red and
yellow silk on a khaki background and is worn on the left arm of
uniform shirt, between the shoulder and the elbow.
As soon as a Scout qualifies as a Second Class Scout, he will not be
content to rest on his laurels but will strive for the still higher rank of
First Class Scout. While doing so, however, he may also take time to
acquaint himself to some extent with the Boy Scout proficiency badges, six of which he may
earn and wear as a Second Class Scout. If, however, he wants more than six, he must complete
his First Class work.

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