Korean Fried Chicken
프라이드치킨
I never used to be a big fan of fried chicken. There wasn’t anything in
particular that I disliked about it, but I just never craved it or cared much for
it. That all changed when I tried Korean fried chicken for the first time at
Jin Mi Chicken, a bustling restaurant in Suwon, South Korea. There,
they serve only two flavors: plain fried chicken and spicy glazed fried
chicken. My uncle had ordered two large plates of each flavor for us.
“Is this for the entire family?” I asked him. “No, this is just for you.
Trust me, you’ll finish the entire thing.” I recall feeling a bit anxious as
I faced Samchon’s expectation that I would be able to finish two plates
full of fried chicken; however, as I took my first bite, my concern gave
way to amazement. This was the most delicious fried chicken I had
tasted to date, and my memories will not let me forget it. The outside
was perfectly crisp and seasoned with a blend of savory spices, comple-
menting the soft and juicy chicken meat underneath. Before I knew
it, I had two buckets in front of me filled with nothing but bones.
Upon returning home to the United States, I struggled to find Korean
fried chicken that matched the quality and taste I had experienced at
Jin Mi Chicken. While many restaurants offer decent versions, nothing
was as memorable as what I had eaten in Korea. That is, until Umma
developed her own fried chicken recipe, inspired by my described
memory. To me, Umma’s fried chicken is not just “good enough”—
it’s exceptional. It brings me back to the amazement that I felt in Korea.
Her fried chicken is a work of art—perfectly crispy, yet light and
flavored with a harmonious blend of spices. Described by Umma as a
“wave-patterned” crust (meant to resemble the waves of the ocean)
and accomplished by “shocking” the battered chicken by tapping it
against the bowl before frying it, the distinctive pattern is key to
achieving the signature crisp and crunch. Having now shared this
with friends, family, and fried chicken lovers in my life, I can say that
Umma’s fried chicken has been repeatedly hailed as some of the best.
SERVES 4 to 6 TOTAL TIME 11⁄4 hours,
plus 3 hours soaking and seasoning
3 pounds (1.4 kilograms) chicken wings, cut at joints,
wingtips discarded
21⁄2 cups milk
2 teaspoons black pepper, divided
1 teaspoon miwon matsogeum (MSG seasoning salt)
31⁄2 cups (420 grams) Korean frying mix, divided
5 tablespoons (50 grams) curry powder, divided
1 tablespoon Dasida beef stock powder
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon onion powder
11⁄2 cups cold water
2–3 quarts vegetable oil for frying
1 Rinse drain the chicken, then transfer it to a large bowl
or container. Add the milk and toss to coat. Arrange the
chicken in an even layer, making sure all the chicken is
submerged in the milk. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
2 Drain and thoroughly rinse the chicken until the water
runs clear. Clean and dry the bowl. Using the tip of a sharp
paring knife, pierce each wing 3 to 5 times on each side
around the bone (the tip of the knife should puncture
through to the other side). Pat the chicken dry with paper
towels and transfer to the bowl.
3 Add 1 teaspoon pepper and the seasoning salt and toss
the chicken to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours
or overnight.
4 Set a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet. Following the
manufacturer’s instructions, heat the oil in an electric fryer
to 330 degrees. Whisk 11⁄2 cups (180 grams) frying mix,
3 tablespoons curry powder, the Dasida powder, garlic
powder, and onion powder together in a separate large bowl.
Gradually whisk in the cold water until the batter is just
combined (it’s okay if small lumps remain; be careful not to
overmix). Add the chicken and toss to coat it in the batter.
5 Whisk the remaining 2 cups (240 grams) frying mix,
remaining 2 tablespoons curry powder, and remaining
1 teaspoon pepper together in a medium bowl. Working
with 1 piece at a time, use tongs to fully coat the chicken in
the batter once more. Lift the wing, allowing excess batter
to drip back into the bowl, and transfer it to the seasoned
frying mixture. Using your hands, toss the wing to coat it
(do not press the piece into the flour), then gently tap the
wing against the side of the bowl twice to “shock” it (this is
what gives the fried chicken its wave pattern). Carefully
lower half of the wing piece into the hot oil, hold for
3 seconds, then release the piece completely into the oil.
Repeat with 5 more wing pieces. Cook, undisturbed, for
about 2 minutes, then use the tongs to release the wings
from the base of the fryer basket. Continue to cook, turning
the wings occasionally, until golden brown and crisp and the
chicken registers at least 165 degrees, 5 to 7 minutes for
wingettes and 7 to 10 minutes for drumettes.
6 Using a slotted spoon, transfer the wings to the prepared
rack as they finish cooking. Return the oil to 330 degrees
and repeat with the remaining wings in batches. Serve.
Umma’s Kitchen Wisdom
I prefer to use Ottogi brand mild curry powder for this
recipe, but other mild curry powders work too.
I love the convenience of pre-split chicken wings and
opt for smaller wings whenever possible. I also cook the
wingettes and drumettes separately, since they have
different cooking times.
I use an electric deep fryer for my fried chicken, though
you can also use a large, wide pot or Dutch oven that
holds 6 quarts or more. Add the oil to the pot until it
measures about 2 inches deep and heat over medium-
high heat to 330 degrees. Adjust the heat as needed to
maintain the temperature.