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ThinRoseFairy Pattern

The document provides detailed instructions and materials needed to crochet a Wild Rose Fairy doll, including specific yarn types, hook sizes, and various crochet techniques. It outlines the complexity of the project, indicating it is suitable for advanced crocheters, and includes a copyright notice for the pattern. Additionally, it describes the construction of the doll's body, skirt, hair, and other components, emphasizing the use of a wire frame for structure.

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Emily Pincay
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67% found this document useful (3 votes)
4K views25 pages

ThinRoseFairy Pattern

The document provides detailed instructions and materials needed to crochet a Wild Rose Fairy doll, including specific yarn types, hook sizes, and various crochet techniques. It outlines the complexity of the project, indicating it is suitable for advanced crocheters, and includes a copyright notice for the pattern. Additionally, it describes the construction of the doll's body, skirt, hair, and other components, emphasizing the use of a wire frame for structure.

Uploaded by

Emily Pincay
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 25

WILD ROSE FAIRY

MATERIALS

Cotton yarn Alpina XENIA * (50 g/240 m)


• Beige
• Pink
• Dark pink
• Dark green
• Dark brown

Cotton thread Iris Gamma (10 g/87m)


• Light yellow

• Hook 1,25 mm
• Chenille pipe cleaner (chenille wire) 6 mm
• Wire 0.5 mm
• Plastic eyes 4 mm
• Black ebroidery thread for the face
• Some kind of reliable glue
• Sewing needles and pins
• Scissors
• Any synthetic or organic filler for stuffing

* HERE is a link to the Ravelry website with a detailed explanation of this yarn

2
INSTRUCTION
This project is quite complicated, requiring good crocheting skills.
A wire frame is used for the doll. It is chenille wire that is needed for the frame. It is not only a
frame, but also serves as internal filling - instead of the usual stuffing. For this reason, you
should use yarn of about the same thickness as in this project.
For stitching the parts, I used their same yarn, split in half.
If you use the materials listed above, you will end up with a doll that is 16 cm (6.3 inches) tall.

Level: Advanced

Abbreviations:
R – round
st – stitch
sts – stitches
ch – chain stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet for US (double crochet stitch for UK)
dc - double crochet for US (treble crochet stitch for UK)
hdc – half double crochet for US (half treble crochet for UK)
2hdc cl - 2 half double crochet cluster
tr – treble crochet
inc – increase: 2 sts in 1 st
inc3 – 3 sts in 1 st
dec – decrease
BLO – back loops only
FLO – front loops only
ch-3 pic – chain of 3 picot
ch-4 pic – chain of 4 picot
ch-5 pic – chain of 5 picot

COPYRIGHT
All rights reserved. All images and designs, including description of this pattern,
are the intellectual property of AniAmiCrochet. The pattern is for personal use
only. The pattern or parts of it may be not reproduced, redistributed, resold,
published (online or printed), altered, shared or posted (for sale or free) over the
internet or offline. You may sell the finished product, but please credit
AniAmiCrochet as the designer.
3
Crochet chart key:
- ch
- sl st
- sc
- dc
- tr
- inc
- 2 tr in one st
- ch-3 pic
- ch-4 pic
- ch-5 pic
- magic ring

NOTE#1 Pass the starting yarn tail between R2 and R3, it will be a counter for counting the
rounds.
NOTE#2 How to do sc decrease:

NOTE#3 How 2hdc cluster to do: make 2 half double crochet in one stitch, thread over and
pull the loop of thread through all 5 loops on the hook.

NOTE#4 How to do invisible fastening off: insert the needle into the previous stitch, pull it out.
Insert the needle between the front and back loops of the last stitch, pull it out. Secure and
hide the yarn.

4
DOLL BODY

ARMS (make 2):


Yarn: beige, dark green

Start with beige yarn:


Round 1: 5 sc into magic ring (5 sts)
R2: inc, 4sc (6 sts)
R3: sc around (6 sts)
R4: dec, 4sc (5 sts)
R5: sc around (5 sts)
R6: inc, 4sc (6 sts)
R7-19 (13 rounds): sc around (6 sts)
Make sl st more and cut the yarn.
Row20: Attach dark green yarn to the penultimate stitch of the R19.
Make hdc in the same stitch. Then work 5 2hdc cl.
Join this row into a ring with sl st and cut the yarn.

LEGS (make 2):


Yarn: beige

Make chain of 6, then start in 2nd ch from the hook:


Round 1: inc, 3sc, inc3, 4sc (12 sts)
R2: sc around (12 sts)
R3: 4sc, 3dec, 2sc (9 sts)
R4: 1sc, dec, 4sc, dec (7 sts)
R5: sc around (7 sts)
R6: 1sc, inc, 5sc (8 sts)
R7: sc around (8 sts)
R8: 2sc, inc, 5sc (9 sts)
R9-33 (25 rounds): sc around (9 sts)
Make sl st more and cut the yarn.

5
For further work take the doll's legs in your hand so that the toes of the feet are parallel, then
flatten them. Mark with pins the inside corners of the flattened ovals (red and blue arrows).

6
TORSO:
Yarn: dark green

Attach the dark green yarn to the place marked with the pin
of the right legs (red arrow) and make 2 ch,
then join the left leg by making sc in the place marked with the pin.
Make sure that the toes of the feet are parallel.
The blue arrow is mark of the beginning of the 34th round.
Work in a round and make 2 sc in the chain on one side,
and 2 sc - on the other side.
You should get 22 sts.
R34: 9sc + 2sc + 9sc + 2sc (22 sts)
Be careful, it's very easy to miss a stitch in this round!

R35-38 (4 rounds): sc around (22 sts)


R39: 4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 4sc (20 sts)

At this stage, prepare the chenille wire for the frame - take two pieces and bend a loops so
that one end is slightly longer than the crocheted torso. The loop itself is tightly twisted to a
distance of 2 cm (no more). These will be the feet and ankles of the doll.

7
R39: 4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 4sc (20 sts)
R40: BLO: 3sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 3sc (18 sts)
R41: 1sc, dec, 12sc, dec, 1sc (16 sts)
R42: BLO: sc around (16 sts)
R43-50 (8 rounds): sc around (16 sts)

Make 6 sc more to get to the point of joining the arm.


But you may need more or less sc depending on your yarn.

Now insert the chenille wire into the legs. Carefully advance the wire until it is in the very tip
of the stretched foot. Note! - The shorter end of the wire should be inside the torso and the
longer end should run along the outside edge of the torso.
When inserting the wire legs lengthen slightly, control this process!

Carefully align both legs lengthwise and twist the two remaining ends of the wire together.
Stuff the hips and seat of the doll a little bit.

8
Attaching the arms:

First prepare the wire for the arms:


Cut two pieces (~24 cm) of thin wire,
Bend it in half and twist.

Attach the arm to the torso and crochet them together with 2sc, so that the last stitch of the
arm is in the first of those 2sc. Work 6 sc and attach 2nd arm with 2sc, then work 6sc more.
The counting 51st rounds begins with 1st stitch of the attaching of first arm (red arrow)
R51: 4sc (arm1) + 6sc (body) + 4sc (arm2) +6sc (body) (20 sts)

Shoulders:
Be careful, it's very easy to miss a stitch in this round!
Change to beige yarn in last stitch of torso, then
R52: (2dec, 6sc) X 2 (16 sts)
R53: 2dec, 2sc, 3dec, 2sc, dec (10 sts)
R54: (dec, 3sc) X 2 (8 sts)
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After making the shoulders, lightly stuff the doll's chest.

Then insert the wire into the arms, align them in length
and carefully twist the wire of the arms with the center wire
- first one and then the other.
When inserting the wire arms lengthen slightly also,
control this process.

Neck:
R55-57 (3 rounds): sc around (8 sts)

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HEAD:

R58: (inc) X 8 (16 sts)


R59: (1sc, inc) X 8 (24 sts)
R60: (2sc, inc) X 8 (32 sts)
R61-68 (8 rounds): sc around (32 sts)

Bend a loop of the remaining protruding end


of the wire. Partially stuff the doll's head at the base of the neck.

R69: (2sc, dec) X 8 (24 sts)


R70: (1sc, dec) X 8 (16 sts)
R71: (dec) X 8 (8 sts)
Now stuff the head tightly. Leave a tail.

In the remaining 8 sc consecutively


sew 8 stitches from the inside to outside
(like weave), tighten the yarn, fasten and hide it.

The base doll is ready.

11
SKIRT

The skirt consists of 2 ones, a bottom skirt and a top one. Both skirts are worked in a rounds
with dc (exept last and penultimate round). At the beginning of the round make 2 ch, when
you finish the round, join it in a ring with sl st; then make 2 ch again for the lift and work the
next round, then join it in a ring; and so on.
First attach a new yarn to the 1st st of FLO round (red arrow),
make 3ch, then make dc to the penultimate st of FLO round (blue arrow).

Bottom skirt (FLO under Round 40):


Yarn: pink

Round 1: 3ch, (dc, skip one st, ch) X 10 (21 sts + 2ch)
R2: 2ch, 2dc in the arch of the previous round, (3dc in the arch..) X 3, 2dc in the arch..., (3dc in
the arch...) X 4, 2dc in the arch... (27 sts + 2ch)
R3-4 (2 rounds): 2ch, 27dc (27 sts + 2ch)
R5: ch, 27sc (27 sts + ch)
R6: (ch, dc, 2tr in one st, dc, ch, sl st) X 7 (49 sts) =>

12
Top skirt (FLO under R40 again):
Yarn: dark pink

Now first attach a new yarn to the 2nd st of FLO round, make 3ch, then make dc to the last
st of FLO round.

Round 1: 3ch, (dc, skip one st, ch) X 10 (21 sts + 2ch)
R2: 2ch, 3dc in the arch of the previous round, (3dc in the arch, 4dc in the arch...) X 4, 3dc in
the arch... (34 sts + 2ch)
R3-4 (2 rounds): 2ch, 34dc (34 sts + 2ch)
R5: ch, 34sc (34 sts + ch)
R6: (ch, dc, (2tr in one st) X 2, dc, ch, sl st) X 7 ( sts) =>

Discreetly secure and hide the yarn on the edge of the skirts.

13
SKIRT-PETALS
Yarn: dark pink

The skirt-petals consists of 7 individual petals, which are then joined together.

Petal is crocheted according to the chart =>

Make chain of 6, start in 3rd ch from hook,


Row1: 4sc, turn
Row2: ch, start in last sc of previous row, 5sc (5 sts + ch), turn
Row3: ch, in last sc of previous row, 4sc, inc (6 sts + ch), turn
Row4: ch, in last sc of previous row, 5sc, inc (7 sts + ch), turn
Row5: ch, in last sc of previous row, 6sc, inc (8 sts + ch), turn
Row6: ch, in last sc of previous row, 7sc, inc (9 sts + ch), turn
Row7: ch, in last sc of previous row, 9sc (9 sts + ch), turn
Row8: 2ch, dc, 2tr in one st, dc, ch, sl st, ch, dc, 2tr in one st, dc, sc (12 sts + 2ch)

Turn the petal sideways and work its 3 edges with sc - 8sc; 5sc; 7sc, sl st. Make 2 sc on the
corners. While doing this, grab the beginning tail in the crocheting. At the end make an
invisible fastening off. Lightly dampen and iron the finished petals

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Attach new yarn in the middle of the top edge of one petal (where the 5sc is) Next, partially
overlap the second petal and make 2 common sc through the 2 left sc of the first petal and
the 2 right sc of the second petal. Make a 3rd sc in the middle of the second petal and
partially overlap the third petal, also make 2 total sc.... and thus join all 7 petals.

Place the skirt on the doll and join the first and last petals
in the same way using 2 common sc.
Finish the skirt by making sl st in the starting stitch
of the first petal. Loosely secure and hide the yarn.

Now pin the skirt to the FLO under Round 42, align it on one FLO edge (because it is
curved) and carefully sew to it.

15
BELT-PETALS:
Yarn: dark green

Leave fairly long starting and ending tails.


Make (chain of 4, start in 3rd ch from hook, 2 sc) X 7.
Lightly dampen and iron the finished belt.

Tie the belt tightly around the doll's waist. Secure the tails into the body with a thick needle.
Sew the belt to the waist with a few small stitches to keep it from shifting.

16
HAIR
Yarn: dark brown

Round 1: 8 sc into magic ring (8 sts)


R2: BLO: (inc) X 8 (16 sts)
R3: BLO: (sc, inc) X 3, (sc, inc) X 5 (24 sts)
R4: (2sc, inc) X 8 (32 sts)
R5-11 (7 rounds): sc around (32 sts)
R12: 15sc, (hair strand: 30ch, sl st in 2nd ch from hook,
26sc, 2sl st; sl st) X 2, 19sc (36 sts without strands)
Finish with sl st, discreetly secure and hide the yarn.

Now make 6 hair strands for the ponytail:


Pull the yarn through the circle at the beginning of round 1. Make a loop on the yarn and
pull it through the center of the magic ring. Next make a chain of 40. This will be first hair
strand of the ponytail: 40ch, sl st in 2nd ch from the hook, 38 sc; sl st in 1st FLO stitch of the
Round 1.
Make the next hair strands: (40ch, sl st in 2nd ch from the hook, 38 sc; skip 1 FLO st, sl
st in the next FLO stitch) X 5. It is a total of 14 FLO sts of the rounds 1 and 2; the hair strands
should make 6. It is very easy to miss one or two BLOs, the remaining two loops are stocked
for that eventuality.

17
Put the brown "cap" on the doll's head, two hair strands should be exactly above the middle
of the forehead.. Secure everything with pins. Sew the “cap” and hair strands with tiny
stitches.
Gently, one by one, twist the strands at the back of the doll's head into a bundle. Twist it
into a tight bun and secure it carefully with pins.
Now carefully sew it through several times, firmly attaching the strands to each other and to
the head.

18
FACE

Insert the eyes into the appropriate holes (I have it between rounds 7 and 8 of the head
counting from the neck, between the eyes are 6 sc. If everything fits, take out the eyes and
with 2-strand black embroidery thread embroider eyelashes as shown in the photos.
Insert the eyes back. If you used safety eyes that's enough,
and if the eyes are on smooth pins (like mine),
they need to be glued with some reliable transparent glue
- apply a little bit on the pin, but first carefully enlarge the hole.

19
SMALL ROSE FLOWER
Yarn: dark pink; light yellow cotton thread

Be sure to leave long initial and final tails of yarn.

Rose flower is crocheted according to the chart=>


R1: make into magic ring: 3ch, (sc, 2ch) X 4, sc (16 sts)
R2: (2ch, (2tr, dc, 2tr) in the arch, 2ch, sl st in next arch) X 5 (50 sts).
Thread the end tail of yarn near the center of the flower.

Wrap the yellow thread on a pencil (12 turns), thread a pre-prepared piece of yellow thread
through the turns and tie tightly. Cut the coils. Thread the long tails of the resulting bundle
through the center hole of the corolla, tie the rose and yellow tails very tightly. Trim the
yellow "stamens".
Tie the flower to the doll hair bun, hide the tails inside the head.

20
WINGS
Yarn: dark green
In the process of making the wing, it is necessary to be guided by the chart!
To make the wings stiff, crochet very tightly.
RIGHT WING:
The wing is crocheted according to the charts=>
Row1: chain of 9, join into a ring, 10sc, turn
Row2: 4ch, skip 1 st, (dc, 2ch, skip 1 st) X 2, dc, turn
Row3: ch, (3sc in the arch, sc) X 2, 3sc in the arch, turn
Row4: 6ch, skip 2 st, dc, 3ch, skip 3 st, dc, 3 ch, skip 2 st, sc, turn
Row5: ch, (4sc in the arch, sc) X 2, (ch-4 pic, 4sc) in the arch), turn
Row6: 9ch, skip 3 st, tr, 4ch, skip 4 st, dc, 4ch, skip 3 st, sl st, turn
Row7: ch, 5sc in the arch, 6sc in the arch, (6sc, ch-3 pic, 9sc) in the arch.
Now turn the crocheting sideways and work the wing edge in the round as follows:
sc, 3sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 4sc in initial chain-ring, 3sl st in 3sc of row1, sc, 2sc, sc, sc, sc.
Then make chain of 7, attach it in the sc, turn and:
ch, 8sc, ch-5 pic, 4sc, sl st.

21
Be sure to leave a long beginning tail of 50 cm!
LEFT WING
The wing is crocheted according to the charts =>
Row1: make chain of 9, join into a ring, 10sc, turn
Row2: 4ch, skip 1 st, (dc, 2ch, skip 1 st) X 2, dc, turn
Row3: ch, (3sc in the arch, sc) X 2, 3sc in the arch, turn
Row4: 4ch, skip 2 st, dc, 3ch, skip 3 st, dc, 3ch, skip 2 st, dc, turn
Row5: ch, (4sc, ch-4 pic) in the arch, (sc, 4sc in the arch) X 2, turn
Row6: 4ch, skip 3 st, dc, 4ch, skip 4 st, tr, 9ch, skip 3 st, sl st, turn
Row7: ch, (9sc, ch-3 pic, 6sc) in the arc, 6sc in the arch, 5sc in the arch.
Now turn the crocheting sideways and work the wing edge in the round as follows:
sc, sc, sc, 2sc, sc, now grab the beginning tail when crocheting => 4sc into initial chain-ring, 3
sl st in 3 sc of row1, sc, 2sc, sc, 3sc, sc.
Using the initial tail make chain of 7, attach it in the sc, turn and: ch, 4sc, ch-5 pic, 8sc, sl st.
Make the invisible fastening off on the top edge of the wing.

22
Hide and trim the tails. Lightly dampen and iron the wings.

Carefully sew the wings together

Pin the wings onto the back of the doll; carefully, inconspicuously but firmly sew them on.

23
Your graceful Wild Rose Fairy is ready! Congratulations!

24
You may also be interested in my Forget-me-not fairy
you can find the pattern HERE

25

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