LESSON 5:
PATTERNMAKING
In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are
traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and
are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more
robust to withstand repeated use. The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes
condensed to the one word Patternmaking.
A sloper pattern (home sewing) or block pattern (industrial production) is a custom-fitted, basic
pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be developed. The process of
changing the size of a finished pattern is called grading.
A patternmaker typically employs one of two methods to create a pattern.
• Flat-pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from
measurements, using rulers, curves and straight-edges. A pattern maker would also
use various tools such as a notcher, drill and awl to mark the pattern. Usually, flat
patterning begins with the creation of a sloper or block pattern, a simple, fitted
garment made to the wearer's measurements. For women, this will usually be a
jewel-neck bodice and narrow skirt, and for men an upper sloper and a pants sloper.
The final sloper pattern is usually made of cardboard or paperboard, without seam
allowances or style details (thicker paper or cardboard allows repeated tracing and
pattern development from the original sloper). The flat pattern drafting method is the
most commonly used method in menswear; menswear rarely involves draping. You
can learn pattern drafting on many fashion design courses either on a short further
education course or as part of a Fashion degree at a university.
• Draping method involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern by pinning fabric directly
on a form, then transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper pattern or
using the muslin as the pattern itself. Designers drafting an evening gown or a
sculpted dress which uses a lot of fabric, typically cut on the bias, will use the
draping technique, as it is very difficult to produce with a flat pattern.
Pattern digitizing
After a paper/fabric pattern is completed, very often patternmakers digitize their
patterns for archiving and vendor communication purposes. The previous standard for
digitizing was the digitizing tablet. Nowadays, automatic option such as scanner and
cameras systems are available.
Fitting patterns
Mass market patterns are made standardized, while human bodies vary, so store-
bought patterns only fit a small proportion of people well, and an experienced
dressmaker can adjust standard patterns to better fit any body shape.
Pattern grading :
Pattern grading is the process of shrinking or enlarging a finished pattern to
accommodate it to people of different sizes. Grading rules determine how patterns
increase or decrease to create different sizes. Fabric type also influences pattern
grading standards. The cost of pattern grading is incomplete without considering
marker making.
Standard pattern symbols
Sewing patterns typically include standard symbols and marks that guide the cutte and/or sewer in
cutting and assembling the pieces of the pattern. Patterns may use
1. Notches, to indicate:
• Seam allowances. (not all patterns include allowances)
• Centerlines and other lines important to the fit like the waistline, hip, breas shoulder tip,
etc.
• Zipper placement
• Fold point for folded hems and facings
• Matched points, especially for long or curving seams or seams with ease. Fo example,
the Armscye will usually be notched at the point where ease shoul begin to be added to
the sleeve cap. There is usually no ease through th underarm.
2. Circular holes, perhaps made by an awl or circular punch, to indicate:
• A dart apex i
• Corners, as they are stitched, i.e. without seam allowances
• Pocket placement, or the placement of other details like trimming
• Buttonholes and buttons
3. A long arrow, drawn on top of the pattern, to indicate:
• Grainline, or how the pattern should be aligned with the fabric. The arrow meant to be aligned
parallel to the straight grain of the fabric. A long arrow wit arrowheads at both ends indicates that
either of two orientations is possible. A arrow with one head probably indicates that the fabric has
a direction to it whic needs to be considered, such as a pattern which should face up when the
weare is standing.
• Double lines indicating where the pattern may be lengthened or shortened for different fit
• Dot, triangle, or square symbols, to provide "match points" for adjoining patter pieces, similar to
putting puzzle pieces together.
BASIC SHORT MAKING: https://youtu.be/jpowbKcsr-A?si=Pq0Iql5HtXsiqYwA
