Weeks 3-4: Textile and Weaving Traditions in the Philippines
I. Introduction to Philippine Weaving Traditions
A. What is Weaving?
Weaving is an age-old tradition in the Philippines, practiced for centuries by indigenous
communities. It involves interlacing warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) threads to
create fabric.
B. Importance of Weaving in Indigenous Culture
1. Symbol of Identity – Each tribe has a distinct weaving style, making it a visual
representation of their heritage.
2. Spiritual and Ritual Importance – Some fabrics are offered in rituals, and
patterns are believed to come from dreams or spirits.
3. Livelihood and Economic Contribution – Weaving sustains many indigenous
families through handicraft businesses and tourism.
4. Eco-Friendly Craftsmanship – Indigenous textiles use natural fibers and dyes,
making them sustainable and biodegradable.
II. Indigenous Weaving Traditions of the Philippines
The following indigenous textiles are among the most renowned in the country, each
representing a different region and cultural group.
1. T’nalak of the T’boli (South Cotabato, Mindanao)
Location: Lake Sebu, South Cotabato
Material: Abaca fiber (Musa textilis)
Colors: Red, black, white
Weavers: T’boli women, known as "Dream Weavers"
Cultural Significance:
• T’nalak is a sacred fabric woven by T’boli women, guided by dreams sent by Fu
Dalu, the goddess of abaca.
• Used for rituals, dowries, and religious ceremonies.
• Considered a spiritual gift, it should never be cut recklessly or disrespected.
Patterns and Symbols:
• Geometric & Animal Motifs – Often represent the natural world and ancestral
spirits.
• Diamond & Zigzag Patterns – Symbolize balance and harmony.
Weaving Process:
1. Harvesting and Drying: Abaca fibers are stripped, sun-dried, and softened.
2. Tying and Resist Dyeing: Threads are tied in intricate knots to prevent certain
areas from absorbing dye.
3. Dyeing: Fibers are dyed using organic pigments from plants.
4. Weaving on a Backstrap Loom: The weaver interlaces dyed fibers using a
traditional backstrap loom.
2. Inaul of the Maguindanao (Maguindanao, Mindanao)
Location: Maguindanao Province
Material: Cotton, silk, and metallic gold threads
Colors: Bright tones with gold accents
Weavers: Maguindanaon women
Cultural Significance:
• Worn by royalty, sultans, and high-ranking individuals.
• Used to create traditional Malong (tube skirt) and formal wear.
• Represents strength and royalty, often gifted at weddings and special
occasions.
Patterns and Symbols:
• Linear & Striped Designs – Reflect warrior strength and noble heritage.
• Golden Threads – Signify prestige and affluence.
Weaving Process:
1. Cotton Preparation: Cotton and silk threads are spun and dyed.
2. Setting Up the Loom: Threads are aligned to create striped or plaid patterns.
3. Weaving on a Handloom: A foot-operated handloom is used to interlace
fibers.
4. Finishing and Pressing: Fabric is washed, stretched, and ironed for smooth
texture.
3. Abel Iloko (Inabel) of the Ilocanos (Ilocos Region, Luzon)
Location: Vigan and Paoay, Ilocos Norte
Material: Cotton, natural dyes
Colors: Red, blue, white with geometric and floral designs
Weavers: Ilocano women
Cultural Significance:
• Considered one of the strongest Philippine textiles, known as Abel nga nawaya
("free weaving").
• Used for blankets, clothing, and decorative textiles.
• Historically woven for Spanish friars and the elite.
Patterns and Symbols:
• Kusikus (spiral pattern) – Symbolizes waves and movement.
• Binakol (checkerboard pattern) – Represents peace and protection.
Weaving Process:
1. Cotton Harvesting & Spinning: Cotton fibers are cleaned and spun.
2. Dyeing: Natural plant-based dyes are used for vibrant colors.
3. Pedal Loom Weaving: A foot-operated loom (pangablan) creates the intricate
design.
4. Piña Weaving of Aklan (Visayas)
Location: Kalibo, Aklan
Material: Pineapple leaf fibers
Colors: Natural beige (sometimes dyed)
Weavers: Aklanon women
Cultural Significance:
• Piña cloth is one of the finest and most delicate Philippine fabrics.
• Used for Barong Tagalog, Filipiniana gowns, and embroidered linens.
• Was highly valued by Spanish aristocrats and colonial elites.
Weaving Process:
1. Harvesting Pineapple Leaves: Fibers are extracted from mature pineapple
plants.
2. Cleaning and Knotting: Fibers are washed and manually knotted into threads.
3. Weaving on a Handloom: Weavers use a traditional loom to create thin, airy
fabric.
4. Hand Embroidery (Calado): Some fabrics are intricately embroidered with
floral patterns.
