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Calvinthe Calf

The document provides a detailed crochet pattern for creating 'Calvin the Calf,' including materials needed, skill level, and step-by-step instructions for each part of the calf. It outlines specific rounds and stitches for the head, mouth, ears, body, legs, and horns, along with color changes and finishing techniques. The pattern is designed for intermediate crocheters and includes various yarn types and sizes for different parts.

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rayanerillary9
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100% found this document useful (1 vote)
1K views21 pages

Calvinthe Calf

The document provides a detailed crochet pattern for creating 'Calvin the Calf,' including materials needed, skill level, and step-by-step instructions for each part of the calf. It outlines specific rounds and stitches for the head, mouth, ears, body, legs, and horns, along with color changes and finishing techniques. The pattern is designed for intermediate crocheters and includes various yarn types and sizes for different parts.

Uploaded by

rayanerillary9
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 21

Calvin the Calf

Material
• Cotton yarn 170 m/50 g, sport weight. You need brown, white, pink,
light grey, dark grey, black and green yarn. This weight is used for all
parts except the white around the eyes.
• Cotton yarn 80 m/50 g, worsted weight. You need a small amount of
white for the eyes.
• Stuffing
• Hook size 2,5 mm
• Safety eyes 16 mm
• Yarn needle
Abbreviations
Sc- single crochet
Inc- increase one stitch
Dec- decrease one stitch
Ch- chain
St- stitch
Sl- slip stitch
Hdc- half double crochet
3inc- 3 sc into the same st
FO- fasten off
BLOsc- back loop only single crochet
b- brown yarn
w- white yarn
p- pink yarn

Information
Skill level: Intermediate. Some experience with amigurumi is recommended.
I crocheted with the right side out (clockwise) and the parts are crocheted in
a spiral, unless the pattern states otherwise. The rounds are not joined with a
slip stitch, unless the pattern states otherwise. Place a piece of yarn or a
stitchmarker in the last stitch of every round so you know when the round is
finished.
If you use a different yarn than me, remember to always choose a smaller
hook size than is recommended on the yarn label.
The rounds using both colours are written like this example round “b 2 sc, w
20 sc, b 2 sc”, and it’s to be read as “brown yarn 2 sc, switch to white yarn
and do 20 sc, switch to brown yarn and do 2 sc”. The brown st are underlined
to make it easier to read the pattern when there are colour changes in the
same round.
2

How to close openings


Sew in the front loops around the opening and pull on the yarn. This will close the
opening. Secure the yarn and hide the end inside.
You can see a photo tutorial on my website Tutorials - IdunCreations

Head
Start with the pink yarn.
Chain 4
Round 1: sc into the 2nd ch from the hook,
place a stitch marker in the turning chain,
1
1 sc, 3inc, 2 sc into the other side of the
starting chain, 3inc into the turning chain
(10)
See picture 1
Remove the stitch marker.
Round 2: 2 sc, inc x 3, 2 sc, inc x 3 (16)
Round 3-4 (2 rounds): 16 sc (16)
Switch to the white yarn.
Round 5: 8 sc, dec x 2, 4 sc (14)
Round 6: 8 sc, inc x 2, 4 sc (16)
Round 7: (1 sc, inc) x 3, inc x 9, 1 sc (28)
Both brown and white yarn is used in the rounds from here.
Round 8: w 9 sc, w inc, w 1 sc, b inc, b 1 sc, b inc, w inc x 6, b (1 sc, inc) x 2, w
(1 sc, inc) x 2 (41)
Round 9: w 10 sc, b 9 sc, w 8 sc, b 10 sc, w 4 sc (41)
Round 10: w 7 sc, b 7 sc, b inc, b 4 sc, b inc, b 1 sc, w 3 sc, w inc, b 4 sc, b inc,
b 4 sc, b inc, b 5 sc, w 1 sc (46)
Round 11: w 4 sc, b inc, b 20 sc, w 1 sc, b 20 sc (47)
3

Only brown yarn from here.


Round 12-20 (9 rounds): 47 sc (47)
Attach the eyes between round 11 and 12.
Place them on equal distance from the
2
white colour in the center of the face. See
picture 2
Round 21: (4 sc, dec) x 4, 9 sc, dec, (4 sc,
dec) x 2 (40)
Round 22: 40 sc (40)
Fill the head with stuffing, pay extra
attention to filling the nose section.
Round 23: (3 sc, dec) x 8 (32)
Round 24: (2 sc, dec) x 8 (24)
Round 25: (1 sc, dec) x 8 (16)
Round 26: dec x 8 (8)
FO but leave enough yarn to be able to close the opening later. It will stay
open for now.

Mouth
Use the white sport weight yarn. The mouth is done in
rows.
3
Chain 5.
Row 1: sl in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdcinc x 2, sl (6)
FO but leave enough yarn to sew the mouth to the body
later.
See picture 3
4

Facial features
Cut a piece of the brown yarn, thread it to the needle and insert it through
the opening at the back of the head. Make a stitch right under the eye. See
picture 4. Go out again through the opening, tie the ends once and pull the
ends to create indents for the eye. See picture 5. Tie again and hide the ends
inside the head. Repeat for the other eye

4 5

Cut another piece of the brown yarn, thread it to the needle and insert it
through the opening at the back of the head. Make a stitch, over one round,
just at the inner corner of the eye. See picture 6. Make another stitch at the
inner corner of the other eye. See picture 7. Go out again through the opening,
tie the ends once and pull the ends to create indents for the eye. See picture 8.
Tie again and hide the ends inside the head.

6 7 8
5

Cut a piece of the white worsted weight yarn, thread


it to the needle and insert it through the opening at 9
the back of the head. Make a stitch under each eye
and exit again through the opening at the back. See
pictures 9
Tie the ends together and hide the ends inside the
head.

Cut a piece of the black sport weight yarn, thread it


to the needle and insert it through the opening at the 10
back of the head. Exit above the eye and make a
stitch, on the outside of the eye, down to the white
yarn. Then make 2 stitches outwards over 2 rounds to
create eyelashes. See pictures 10
Exit again through the opening at the back. Tie the
ends together and hide the ends inside the head.
Repeat on the other eye.

Cut a piece of the black sport weight yarn, thread it to


the needle and insert it through the opening at the
11
back of the head. Make two slightly angled stitches
over two rounds to make nostriles. See picture 11
Exit again through the opening at the back. Tie the
ends together and hide the ends inside the head.

Cut a piece of the white sport weight yarn, thread it to the needle and insert
it through the opening at the back of the head. Make a stitch between round
5 and 6, under the nose section. Exit again through the opening at the back.
Tie the ends together once and pull the ends to create an indent. Tie the yarn
again and hide the ends inside the head. See pictures 12 and 13
6

12 13

Sew the mouth to the underside of the head, between round 6 and 7. Secure
the yarn and hide the ends inside the head. See pictures 14 to 16

14 15 16

Close the opening at the back of the head. Secure the yarn and hide the yarn
inside the head.

Ears x 2
Brown and pink yarn is used.
Start with the brown yarn.
Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
Round 2: inc x 6 (12)
Round 3-4 (2 rounds): 12 sc (12)
Round 5: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
7

Round 6-7 (2 rounds): 18 sc (18)


Both brown and pink yarn is used in the following rounds.
Round 8: b 11 sc, p 2 sc, b 5 sc (18)
Round 9-11 (3 rounds): b 10 sc, p 4 sc, b 4 sc (18)
Round 12: b (1 sc, dec)x 3, b 1 sc, p dec x 2, b 1 sc, b
dec, b 1 sc (12) 17
Round 13: b 7 sc, p 2 sc, b 3 sc (12)

Flatten the ear and crochet 6 sc along the opening.


Crochet through both sides. See picture 17
FO but leave enough yarn to sew the ear to the body
later.

Fold the ear in half and sew a few stitches. See pictures 18 and 19
Secure the yarn but leave the end to sew the ear to the head later.

18 19
8

Body
Start with brown.
Round 1: b 8 sc in a magic ring (8)
Both brown and white yarn is used in the following 11 rounds.
Round 2: b inc x 2, w inc x 2, b inc x 4 (16)
Round 3: b (1 sc, inc) x 2, w (1 sc, inc) x 2, b (1 sc, inc) x 4 (24)
Round 4: b (2 sc, inc) x 2, w (2 sc, inc) x 2, b (2 sc, inc) x 4 (32)
Round 5: b 8 sc, w 8 sc, b 16 sc (32)
Round 6: b (3 sc, inc) x 2, w (3 sc, inc) x 2, b (3 sc, inc) x 4 (40)
Round 7: b 10 sc, w 3 sc, w inc x 4, w 3 sc, b 20 sc (44)
Round 8: b 6 sc, b dec x 2, w dec, w 10 sc, w dec, b dec x 2, b 16 sc (38)
Round 9: b 9 sc, w 10 sc, b 19 sc (38)
Round 10: b 10 sc, w 8 sc, b 20 sc (38)
Round 11: b 11 sc, w 6 sc, b 21 sc (38)
Round 12: b 12 sc, w 4 sc, b 22 sc (38)
Only brown yarn in the following rounds.
Round 13: 38 sc (38)
Round 14: 8 sc, dec x 2, 6 sc, dec x 2, 16 sc (34)
Round 15-22 (8 rounds): 34 sc (34)
Round 23: (1 sc, inc) x 2, 25 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 2 sc (38)
Round 24: 3 sc, inc, 29 sc, inc, 4 sc (40)
Round 25: 40 sc (40)
Fill the body with stuffing. Pack it tightly.
Round 26: dec, 4 sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (36)
9

Round 27: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)


20
Round 28: 30 sc (30)
Round 29: (3 sc sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Round 30 (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Add a bit more stuffing if needed.
Round 31: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Round 32: dec x 6 (6)
FO and close the opening by sewing around
it. Hide the end inside the body.
See picture 20

Front leg x 2
Start with the brown yarn.
Round 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
Round 2: inc x 6 (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4-5 (2 rounds): 18 sc (18)
Round 6: 9 sc, chain 3 (12)
21
The chains count as st.
Round 7: start into the first st from
round 6, 12 sc (12) See picture 21
Round 8: 12 sc (12)
Round 9: 10 sc, dec (11)
Round 10: 11 sc (11)
Round 11: 8 sc, dec, 1 sc (10)
Round 12: 10 sc (10)
Switch to the grey yarn.
10

Round 13: 10 sc (10)


22
Fill the leg with stuffing.
Round 14: 10 BLOsc (10)
FO and close the opening by sewing
around it, insert the needle in the middle
and pull the yarn. This will pull the
underside of the leg (grey hof) up. Hide the
end inside the leg.
Attach the brown yarn in the first st on
the other side, in the opening that is still
open. See picture 22
Round 15: 9 sc, 3 sc into the chain (12)
23
Round 16-17 (2 rounds): 12 sc (12)
Round 18: dec x 6 (6)
This part is not filled with stuffing.
FO and close the opening by sewing around it
but leave enough yarn to be able to sew the leg to
the body later.
See picture 23

Back leg A
Start with the grey yarn.
Round 1: 5 sc in a magic ring (5)
Round 2: inc x 5 (10)
Round 3: 10 BLOsc (10)
Round 4: 10 sc (10)
Switch to the brown yarn.
Round 5-11 (7 rounds): 10 sc (10)
11

Fill the leg with stuffing. No stuffing


in the rest of the leg. See pictures 24
24
Round 12: 4 sc, 3inc x 2, 4 sc (14)
Round 13: 6 sc, 3inc x 2, 6 sc (18)
Stuff this part
Round 14: 8 sc, inc x 2, 8 sc (20)
Round 15: 20 sc (20)
Round 16: 10 sc, 3inc, 9 sc (22)
Round 17: 22 sc (22)
Round 18: 11 sc, 3 inc, 10 (24)
Round 19-21 (3 rounds): 24 sc (24)
Round 22: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Round 23: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Round 24: dec x 6 (6)
FO and close the opening by sewing around it but leave enough yarn to be
able to sew the leg to the body later.

Back leg B
Start with the grey yarn.
Round 1: 5 sc in a magic ring (5)
25
Round 2: inc x 5 (10)
Round 3: 10 BLOsc (10)
Round 4: 10 sc (10)
Fill the leg with stuffing. Leave the top section of the
leg empty.
Switch to the brown yarn.
Round 5-10 (6 rounds): 10 sc (10)
12

Flatten the leg and crochet through both layers with


5 sc.
26
FO but leave enough yarn to sew the leg to the body
later.

See pictures 25 and 26

Cut a piece of the dark grey yarn, thread it to the needle and make a stitch
vertically over the hoves of the front legs.
Secure the yarn and hide the ends inside the leg.
See pictures 27 and 28

27 28

For back leg A make the stitch horizontal over the


underside when the leg is laying flat. See picture 29
29
13

For back leg B make the stitch in the same


direction as the closed opening. See picture 30
30

Horns x 2
Use the grey yarn. 31
Round 1: 4 sc in a magic ring (4)
Round 2: 4 sc (4)
Round 3: inc, 3 sc (5)
Round 4: 3 sc, inc, 1 sc (6)
FO but leave enough yarn to be able to sew
the horn to the head later.
See picture 31

Tail
Use the brown yarn.
Start the tail approximately 20 cm into the yarn.
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Pull the starting thread through the magic ring. The thread is used later so
sew the tail to the body.
Round 2: inc x 6 (12)
Round 3-4 (2 rounds): 12 sc (12)
Round 5: dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc (10)
Round 6: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc (8)
Round 7: 8 sc (8)
14

Round 8: 1 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc (6)


Round 9-15 (7 rounds): 6 sc (6)
Round 16: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc (5)
Round 17: 5 sc (5)
FO and hide the end inside the tail.

Cut 4 10 cm lengths of the brown yarn. Fold them and thread the strands to
the needle, pull the yarn through a st on round 17, as shown in picture 32.
Pull the ends through the loop and pull them. See pictures 33 and 34
Trim the strands to the lengh you prefer. I made them 3 cm long. See picture
35

32 33

34 35
15

Assembly
Sew the ears to the head over rounds 18 to 20. Place them slighgtly higher
than the upper part of the eyes. The front of the ear should face forward. See
pictures 36 and 37.
Secure the yarn and hide the ends inside the head.

36 37

Sew the horns to the head. Sew them over rounds 17 and 18. I have 10 st
between the horns. Secure the yarn and hide the ends inside the head.
See pictures 38 to 40

38 39 40

If you want hair on your calf you can attach it now.


Cut 3, 20 cm, strands of the brown yarn. Fold them double, thread it to the
needle and push the needle through the head, from the top of the head. Push
it back up, one st over. See picture 41 and 42.
Exit thought the same st as you entered on top and cut it to the length you
want.
(For the rest of this pattern there will be no hair on my calfs head.)
16

41 42

Sew the first front leg to the body as shown in pictures 43 and 44. The leg
should lay flat in front of the body. Sew the unfilled part of the leg to the
underside of the body, on the white section.

43 44

Secure the yarn and hide it inside the body.


17

Place the other front leg as shown in pictures 45 and 46


Secure the yarn and hide the end inside the body.

45 46

Place back leg A over the left side


of the body, at the back. The back
47
of the leg should reach the last
round of the body. See picture 47
Sew around the round, top part of
the leg. Secure the yarn and hide it
inside the body.

Sew back leg B at the same angle and sew it on underneath the body. See
pictures 48 and 49
Secure the yarn and hide the end inside the body.
18

48 49

Sew the tail to the back of the body. Attach it right behind the back leg. See
pictures 50 and 51
Secure the yarn and hide the end inside the body.

50 51

Cut a piece of the brown yarn and sew the head to the body. Sew around the
head, into the body, and sew around a few rounds to make it steady and
secure. I have placed the head slightly angled and with the head tilted
upwards a little bit. See pictures 52 and 53
Secure the yarn and hide the yarn inside the head.
19

52 53

Cut 4 pieces of the green yarn, approximately 7 cm and then cut a piece of
the white sport weight yarn. Place the yarn in the mouth. Make a stitch over
the grass inside the mouth. Pull the ends and tie the ends together, then hide
the yarn inside the head. See pictures 54 to 56

54 55 56

Your calf is finished! I hope you had fun!


20

Thank you for purchasing my pattern! If you have any questions please send
me a message and I’ll help you out! I would love to see your finished project
and it would make me so happy if you wanted to show me, either on
Instagram or in a review in my Etsy shop!
Please follow me on Instagram www.instagram.com/iduncreations
My Etsy shop is www.etsy.com/shop/iduncreations and my website is
www.iduncreations.com

You can sell what you crochet from my pattern but the pattern itself can’t be
sold, redistributed or copied. If you sell your finished product always
reference to me, Mikaela Linderholm, as the designer and the shop link
www.etsy.com/shop/iduncreations.

THANK YOU!

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