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 table of contents

Preface | xi Key Terms 43

Questions for Review 43

1
Questions for Reflection 44
To Read More 44
Introduction to Textiles | 2 Web Exploration: Introduction to Textiles 44
Web Exploration: Textile Testing Labs 45
Introduction 4 Web Exploration: Sustainability and Textiles 45
Textiles and Textile Products 4
The Global Textile Complex 7

3
Career Opportunities 9
Textile Laws and Regulations 11
Chapter Summary 16 Natural Fibers | 46
Key Terms 16
Questions for Review 17 Introduction 48
Questions for Reflection 17 Natural Plant Fibers 48
To Read More 17 Cotton 50 • Flax 56 • Ramie 58 • Hemp 59

Web Exploration: The Global Textile and Natural Animal Fibers 59

Apparel Industry 18 Wool 61 • Mohair 67 • Angora 67 • Cashmere 68
Web Exploration: Textile Information 18 • Llama and Alpaca 68 • Silk 68
Web Exploration: Career Opportunities 18 Identification of Natural Fibers 72
Web Exploration: Labels and Labeling 19 Chapter Summary 74
Key Terms 74
Questions for Review 75
Questions for Reflection 75

2
To Read More 75
Textile Serviceability and Web Exploration: Sustainable Cotton 76
Sustainability | 20 Web Exploration: Sheep 101 76
Web Exploration: Hemp 76
Introduction 22 Web Exploration: Silk 77
Serviceability 22
Terms Relating to Textile Serviceability 27

4
Aesthetic Properties 27 • Durability Properties 28
• Comfort and Safety Properties 29 • Appearance-
Retention Properties 31 • Care Properties 33 Manufactured and Synthetic
General Fiber Properties 33 Fibers | 78
Fiber Structure 33 • Fiber Chemistry 36
Introduction 80
Fiber Identification 36 Manufacturing Fibers 82
Visual Inspection 36 • Burn Test 37 Fiber Modifications 82
• Microscopic Appearance 37 • Solubility Tests 38
Sustainability of Manufactured Fibers 86
Sustainability 39 Manufactured Regenerated Fibers 86
Chapter Summary 43
Rayon 86 • Lyocell 90 • Acetate 92 • Azlon 93

table of contents vii

 Synthetic Fibers 94 Characteristics of Woven Fabrics 138
Nylon 95 • Polyester 99 • Olefin 101 Plain Weave 143
• Acrylic 104 • Elastomers 106 • Aramid 109
Balanced Plain Weave 143 • Unbalanced Plain Weave 146
• Glass 110 • Metallic Fibers 110 • PLA 111
• Basket Weave 148
Fiber Blends, Mixtures, and Combinations 111
Twill Weave 149
Chapter Summary 113
Even-Sided Twills 150 • Warp-Faced Twills 151
Key Terms 113
Questions for Review 114 Satin Weave 152
Questions for Reflection 114 Fancy Weaves 153
To Read More 114 Patterned Fabrics 154 • Open-work Fabrics 158
Web Exploration: Manufactured Fibers 115 • Pile Fabrics 159
Web Exploration: Recyled Fibers 115 Environmental Concerns and Sustainability of
Web Exploration: Nylon Synthesis 115 Weaving 161
Chapter Summary 162

5
Key Terms 162
Questions for Review 163
Questions for Reflection 164
Yarns | 116
To Read More 164
Introduction 118 Web Exploration: Weaving Video 164
Yarn Types 118 Web Exploration: Plain Weave 165
Filament Yarns 118 • Spun Yarns 119
Yarn Twist 121

7
Yarn Size 123
Yarn Structure 124
Simple Yarns 124 • Fancy Yarns 125 Knit Fabrics | 166
• Composite Yarns 127

Yarn Performance and Yarn Quality 127 Introduction 168

Thread and Rope 128 Knitting 168
Environmental Concerns and Sustainability Characteristics of Knit Fabrics 170
of Yarn Processing 129
Environmental Concerns and Sustainability of
Chapter Summary 130
Knitting 172
Key Terms 130
Filling Knits 172
Questions for Review 131
Single-Filling Knits 175 • Double-Filling Knits 180
Questions for Reflection 131
To Read More 131 Warp Knits 182
Web Exploration: Commercial Spinning Tricot Knits 184 • Raschel Knits 185
of Cotton 132 Narrow Knits 186
Web Exploration: Entrepreneur Spinning Chapter Summary 186
of Wool 132 Key Terms 187
Questions for Review 187

6
Questions for Reflection 187
To Read More 188
Web Exploration: Hand Knitting 188
Woven Fabrics | 134
Web Exploration: A Knit Sock Company 188
Introduction 136 Web Exploration: Knit Technical Products 188
Weaving and the Loom 137 Web Exploration: Filling or Weft Knitting 189

viii table of contents

8
Key Terms 232
Questions for Review 232
Questions for Reflection 232
Other Fabrics | 190 To Read More 233
Introduction 192 Web Exploration: Aurora Specialty
Fabrics from Solutions 192 Textiles Group, Inc. 233
Films 192 • Foams 193
Web Exploration: Feutrie S. A. 233
Web Exploration: Duro Industries 233
Fabrics from Fibers 194
Nonwoven Fabrics 194 • Fiberfill 195 • Other Nonwoven
Fabrics 196

10
Fabrics from Yarns 197
Braid 197 • Lace 197

Fabrics from Fabrics 198 Dyeing and Printing | 234

Coated Fabrics 198 • Tufted Fabrics 199 Introduction 236
• Laminates 201 • Knit-Through Fabrics 201
• Quilted Fabrics 202
Colorants and Stage of Dyeing 238
Fiber Dyeing 239 • Yarn Dyeing 240 • Fabric Dyeing 240
Animal Products 202 • Product Dyeing 241
Leather 202 • Suede 203 • Fur 204
Resist Dyeing 241
Chapter Summary 205 Printing 242
Key Terms 205 Roller Printing 243 • Warp Printing 244 • Discharge
Questions for Review 205 Printing 244 • Screen Printing 245 • Digital Printing 246
Questions for Reflection 206 • Heat Transfer Printing 246
To Read More 206 Color Problems 247
Web Exploration: Lace and Lacemaking and the Environmental Concerns and Sustainability of
Cowper and Newton Museum 206 Dyeing and Printing 250
Web Exploration: Alligator Leather 207 Chapter Summary 251
Web Exploration: Fur and the Fur Information Key Terms 251
Council of America 207 Questions for Review 251
Web Exploration: Nonwovens and the Questions for Reflection 252
Association of Nonwoven Fabrics Industry 207 To Read More 252
Web Exploration: Metro Custom Dyeing 252

9
Web Exploration: Guruson International 253
Web Exploration: First2Print 253
Web Exploration: Screen Printing 253
Finishes | 208
Introduction 210

11
Routine Finishes 212
Aesthetic Finishes 214
Finishes That Change Luster 216 • Finishes That Change Care of Textiles | 254
Drape 217 • Finishes That Change Texture and Hand 217

Special-Purpose Finishes 222 Introduction 256

Shape-Retention Finishes 222 • Appearance-Retention
Soil 257
Finishes 224 • Comfort-Enhancing Finishes 225 Solvents 257
• Biological-Control Finishes 227 • Safety-Related Detergents and Other Cleaning
Finishes 229 Compounds 258
Environmental Concerns and Sustainability of Consumer Care 261
Finishing 230 Laundry 261 • Home Solvent Cleaning 262 •
Chapter Summary 231 Storage 263 • Equipment 263

table of contents ix
Commercial Care 266 Web Exploration: American Institute for
Commercial Laundry 266 • Dry Cleaning 266 Conservation of Historic and Artistic
• Professional Wet Cleaning 268 • Carpet and Upholstery Works 273
Cleaning 268

Care of Heirloom and Vintage Textiles 270 APPENDICES

Environmental Concerns and Sustainability of Appendix A. Common Trade Names for Fibers,
Care 271 Fabrics, and Finishes 274
Chapter Summary 272 Appendix B. Guide to Stain Removal 277
Key Terms 272 Appendix C. World Map 280
Questions for Review 272 Appendix D. Major Dye Classes 281
Questions for Reflection 272 Appendix E. Fiber Names in Other
To Read More 273 Languages 282
Web Exploration: American Cleaning Appendix F. Fiber Property Charts 283
Institute 273
GLOSSARY 287
Web Exploration: Drycleaning & Laundry Institute INDEX 311
International 273

x table of contents
 preface

With the growth of the world’s population, expansion of fabrics, finishes, and coloration methods in order to
consumerism and income (especially in Eastern Europe meet the needs of consumers and satisfy government
and Asia), and changes in technology, the industry that regulations. Many opportunities exist for individuals
provides apparel, interior textiles, and technical textiles to apply their enthusiasm and passion for textiles and
will continue to provide opportunities for individuals with fashion and build a career.
a wide range of interests, talents, and backgrounds. The Textiles: Basics is designed to provide you, the
global textile and apparel industry is an essential one. student, with a basic knowledge of textiles so you
This industry includes natural fiber producers like cotton can be prepared for a career in the global textile
farmers in Brazil and Texas, sheep and goat herders in and apparel complex. With the knowledge from this
Mongolia and Australia, and the people in China and book, you will have the foundation you need to make
India who produce silk. Manufactured and synthetic fiber informed decisions regarding textile materials and
producers use raw materials like wood and petroleum textile products and to communicate effectively with
by-products to produce fibers like nylon, polyester, olefin, other individuals and companies in the workplace.
and spandex that are fundamental to today’s lifestyle. This book will help you:
Yarn spinners create yarn from the fibers; weavers and • use textile terminology correctly;
knitters make fabric from the yarn; dyers, printers, and • know the key requirements of textile laws and
converters take the fabric and make it more attractive regulations;
and give it better performance for its end use. Designers • understand the contributions the textile
and engineers create the designs for products. components make to product serviceability;
Manufacturers convert fabric into apparel, interior textiles, • identify and name fabrics;
and technical products. Freight companies take the raw • predict product performance based on a
materials to the producers, ship the finished products knowledge of fibers, yarns, fabrication methods,
from the off-shore production facility to the country and finishes;
where it will be sold, and move the products from the • select textiles for specific end uses based on
performance and serviceability expectations;
distribution center to the store. Wholesalers and retailers
• select appropriate care for textile products;
present finished goods to consumers.
• understand sustainability and environmental
This huge industry meets the needs of the world’s
concerns related to the production, use, and care
population. Everyone wears clothes; everyone uses
of textiles; and
textiles in their home; and everyone uses technical
• further your interest in and appreciation of textiles.
textiles even though they are probably not aware of
the wide range of technical products that are textiles I hope you find the challenge of learning about

or that include textile components. Careers in this textiles exciting and that you see this challenge as

huge industry require some knowledge of fibers, yarns, a significant step in your preparation for a career in

preface xi
this global industry. I enjoy sharing my knowledge of access code. Within 48 hours of registering, you will
textiles with students and seeing the comprehension receive a confirming e-mail including an instructor
and understanding dawn in their eyes. Good luck with access code. Once you have received your code, locate
mastering the knowledge of textiles. your text in the online catalog and click on the Instructor
The daunting task of writing such a book is one that Resources button on the left side of the catalog
takes the effort of many others. I would like to thank product page. Select a supplement, and a login page
Sara Marcketti, Carmen Keist, and Janet Fitzpatrick will appear. Once you have logged in, you can access
for their help in finding materials and examples for instructor material for all Prentice Hall textbooks. If you
the photographs. Thanks to the reviewers for their have any difficulties accessing the site or downloading
comments, observations, suggestions, and perspectives: a supplement, please contact Customer Service at
Arturo Andros, International Academy of Design & http://247pearsoned.custhelp.com/
Merchandising, Detroit; Laurie M. Apple, University of
Arkansas; Anne M. Bennion, FIDM; Beverly Bowdoin, Student Resources
IADT Nashville; Kim Hiller Connell, Kansas State
Additional questions, chapter quizzes, chapter anima-
University; Theresa Mastrianni, Kingsborough Community
tions, and a link to a Virtual Swatch Kit can be found at
College; Mary Nelson, Monterey Peninsula College;
the Pearson Careers Resources for Students website
Ann Roberts, East Tennessee State University; Leslie
(http://www.pearsonhighered.com/careersresources/)
H. Simpson, Morgan State University; and Dianne Tatara,
by searching for the book by title or going to Browse
IADT Nashville. Thanks to my sister Lora Camacho
by Discipline and choosing Fashion and Interior Design
for her invaluable help in providing entertainment and
and selecting your title from those listed.
distractions when I needed a break. Thanks to Denise
Bachelder, Loretta Eue, Janet Fitzpatrick, and Cindy
Maroney for their love of the fiber arts and the inspiration
they share. Thanks to my parents, Lawrence and Doris
Kadolph, for their love and support. And finally, thanks to
Sampson, Silkie, and Clementine who reminded me daily
to take a break and feed and pet the cats!
Sara J. Kadolph
Professor Emeritus
Iowa State University

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xii preface
This page intentionally left blank
INTRODUCTION
TO TEXTILES
CHAPTER OUTLINE LEARNING OUTCOMES
• Introduction After reading this chapter, you should be able to:
• Textiles and Textile Products • Identify the range of products and materials that are
• The Global Textile Complex considered textiles and textile products.
• Career Opportunities • Define terms that relate to textiles and their
• Textile Laws and Regulations components.
• Explain how textile products enhance the quality of life.
• Describe the global nature of the textile complex.
• Discuss career opportunities within the global textile
complex.
• List mandatory point-of-purchase and label
requirements for textile products.

1 3
 Introduction
Imagine apparel that protects from sunburn or blood-borne diseases and that reduces diaper
rash and body odor! Imagine textiles that filter germs from drinking water; that keep pets safe
and healthy; that protect soil from erosion; and that help wounds heal! Imagine fibers so tiny
they can only be seen with a microscope or so tough that they protect from cuts! You will learn
about all these amazing textiles and many others.
You need to understand textiles to work in the global textile and apparel complex and
advance in your career. This book presents the major elements of textiles and fundamental
concepts related to commercially important fibers, yarns, fabric construction, finishes, and col-
oration. These interdependent elements influence the cost and create the beauty or aesthetics,
durability, care, appearance, safety, function, and comfort of textile products.
Many words will be new to you or their meanings will be more precisely defined. Studying
textiles is like learning a new language; you need to memorize many terms and facts. You need
Fiber
Finished fabric to study to identify the fine differences among fibers, yarns, fabrics, finishes, and coloration
Yarn
methods and their affect on textile products. The more fabrics you examine closely, the more
quickly you will develop the ability to identify fabrics.

Textiles and Textile Products

Fabric

What are textiles? Let’s start with definitions and examples of basic terms.

Textile: Any flexible material that is composed of thin films or of fibers, yarns, or fabrics or
products made of films, fibers, yarns, or fabrics. Cotton fiber is a textile. Fabrics such as cor-
duroy and satin are textiles. Shirts, tablecloths, and tents are textiles. Although other terms
like material, fabric, and cloth are synonyms, textile is most used in the global textile complex.
Unfinished fabric
Fiber: Any substance, natural or manufactured, with a high length-to-width ratio with suit-
able characteristics for processing into fabric; the smallest component, hairlike in nature,
that can be removed from a fabric (Figure 1-1). Fibers make most fabrics. Consumers often
describe textile products by fiber names, such as cotton T-shirt, wool sweater, or nylon
parka. Fibers contribute absorbency, stretch, warmth, strength, and many other properties
to products.
Yarn: A grouping of fibers that is twisted or laid together to form a continuous strand that
can be made into a textile fabric (Figure 1-1). Consumers may refer to yarn as string or
thread, but yarn is the broader term and the one used in the global textile complex. Yarns
influence product performance. They make fabric smooth and slick like satin or soft and
fuzzy like flannelette.
Fabric: A flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns, fabrics, or any
combination. Fabrics range from lightweight and sheer chiffon scarves to heavy and sturdy
denim to rigid and firm carpeting (Figure 1-1). Consumers refer to fabric as cloth or material,
but fabric or piece goods is used in the global textile complex.
Gray goods: Any fabric that has not been finished. Consumers seldom see gray goods,
except for home sewers and quilters who may work with muslin, a type of gray good.
FIGURE 1-1 The components of a fabric: fiber, Coloration: Any dyeing or printing process used to add color to a textile. Coloration adds
yarn, structure, and finish. Woven fabric, (top); Knit interest and fashion to apparel and interior textiles and includes dyeing and printing (Figure 1-1).
fabric, (bottom).

4 chapter 1
 Textile Brief
Finish: Any process that modifies appearance or enhances perfor-
mance of gray goods (Figure 1-1). Some finishes make fabric more
comfortable such as brushing flannelette to produce a soft napped
1
surface. Others change performance, but do not change any visual or Most textiles are made of fibers that are
tactile aspect, such as a pair of cotton slacks with stain-resistant finish.
processed into yarns and woven or knit into
fabrics. Coloration and finishing add value,
The finish makes stains easier to remove in washing, but consumers
enhance appearance, or improve performance.
only know of such a chemical finish if it is stated on a label or tag. Textile: Any flexible material composed of thin
Soft goods: Products constructed of textiles including apparel, interior films, fibers, yarns, or fabrics or products made of
textiles, and technical textiles. Soft goods is the term used in the global films, fibers, yarns, or fabrics.
complex. Fiber: The smallest component, hairlike in
nature, that can be separated from a fabric.
The field of textiles is ever changing. Textiles change in response to fash- Yarn: An assemblage of fibers that form a
ion, consumer expectations and demand, production costs and processes, continuous strand used in making fabric.
government standards for safety and environmental quality, research, in- Fabric: A flexible planar substance made from
novation, and international trade. Some changes occur quickly, but it takes solutions, fibers, yarns, fabrics, or any combination.
years to engineer new fibers.
Gray goods: Unfinished fabric.
Coloration: Any dyeing or printing process used to
Consumers use some textiles every day while they never directly use
add color to a textile.
or see other textiles. Everyday textile products include apparel (clothing Finish: Any process that modifies appearance or
and fashion accessories like bags and shoes made from flexible materials), enhances performance of gray goods.
interior textiles (upholstered furniture, carpets, and towels), and technical Soft goods: Products constructed of textiles.
textiles (toothbrushes, bandages, seat belts, conveyor belts, and roadbed
underlays).
The apparel industry uses a wide range of textiles. Apparel textiles range
from soft and absorbent jerseys for newborn infants to comfortable and stylish wovens for office
workers to rugged and durable twills for farmers and factory workers to high fashion and ele-
gant satins for weddings and celebrations. Hu-
man performance in sports is enhanced when
textiles remove perspiration from the surface
and maximize heat loss in warm weather or
minimize heat loss in cold or windy weather.
Learning Activity 1
Apparel fabrics also include nonwoven sup- Dismantle Fabric #1 from your swatch kit so that you have a fiber and a yarn. Describe the differences and
port fabrics and woven or knit elastic narrow similarities between these components. Consider the process undertaken to reduce the fabric to a yarn
trims that contribute to garment shape and and a fiber. Explain how these components are used to create the fabric. Compare what you have written
appearance. with the definitions for fiber, yarn, and fabric. Look at the color of the fabric. Is the color the same for the
interior parts of the yarn? What might the uniformity of color tell you about when the color was applied?
The interior textile industry uses a wide
Identify a textile product or an end use that would be appropriate for this fabric and explain your reasoning.
range of textiles in home and contract inte-
riors. Interior textiles, also known as interior
furnishings or home fashions, include wall and
window coverings, office panels, upholstery, mattresses, mattress pads, pillows, carpets, rugs,
and table, bed, and bath linens. Nonwoven support fabrics and fiberfill enhance the comfort and
appearance of upholstered furniture.
Technical textiles or industrial textiles are widely used in other applications and contribute
greatly to today’s quality of life. Table 1-1 lists some technical textiles. Technical textiles are
used in the automotive industry for durable tire cords; comfortable and stylish seat upholstery
and carpeting; headliners and window runners for noise reduction and a finished interior; seat
belts and shoulder harnesses for safety; reinforcement fibers in molded plastic parts to reduce
weight and cost; and fan belts, gaskets, and seals to improve function and efficiency.

introduction to textiles 5
 TABLE 1-1
Technical textiles grouped by end-use category.
Food Animal Care Protective Gear Agriculture
Bags and sacks Blankets Abrasion-resistant Bags and sacks
gloves
Bakery filters Leashes Ballistic vests Bale coverings
Coffee filters Pet bed liners Chemical-resistant Hoses, belts
gloves
Packaging materials Restraints Hazmat suits Plant covers, tree
wraps
Tea bags Saddles Heat/fire-resistant Ropes
suits
Stall liners Impact-resistant Tractor interiors
helmets
Recreation Medical Personal Hygiene Transportation
Artificial play Arteries Cotton balls Bicycle helmets
surfaces
Backpacks, life Bandages, casts Dental floss Brake linings
jackets
Balls, racket string Dialysis filters Feminine hygiene Convertible tops
items
Fishing line, nets Examination Incontinence pads Gaskets and seals
gowns
Helmet liners, pads Surgical masks, Makeup brushes Plane, vehicle
gloves interiors
Rafts, boat hulls, Support wraps Medicated pads Road bed
sails underlays
Tents Sutures Nail buffers Seat belts, air
bags
Tooth and hair- Tire cords
brushes
Environment Building Manufactured Other Products
Materials Goods
Air and water filters Covers for wiring Belts, hoses Artificial flowers
Drainage screens Drop cloths, duct Carpet backing Banners, flags
tape
Erosion barriers Gaskets, seals Duct tape backing Book bindings
Oil-spill-controls Insulation Loading dock Casket linings
covers
Pond liners Pool liners, covers Mailing envelopes Computer boards
Shore protectors Screens, awnings Paint rollers Lampshades
Snow and silt fences Moisture barriers Silk-screen mesh Mops, dust cloths
Weed-control Venetian blinds Tarpaulins Sandbags
fabrics
Wall coverings Wipes Wicks, felt for
pens

Astronauts travel in space wearing complex, multilayer space suits. Worn-out or dam-
aged body parts are replaced with textiles such as polyester arteries and velour heart valves.
Ballistic- and slash-resistant vests protect police and soldiers, and shoulder and seat belts
make travel safer. Outdoor activities under tents and awnings protect us from sun and rain.
Carbon-fiber-reinforced golf clubs and tennis rackets and body-condensing swimwear en-
hance athletic performance. Padded protective helmets, shoulder and knee pads, gloves
specific to the sport, and special footwear minimize injury and enhance performance.

6 chapter 1
 Farmers and ranchers guard crops and livestock with textile barrier fabrics. Fine mesh nets
protect fruit from insects while textile braids make leads for show horses and cattle. Conveyor
belts made of composite textiles move manufactured goods. A fabric-supported hose pumps
gas into your car.
Technical woven and nonwoven landscape erosion control fabrics reduce environmental
damage while woven and nonwoven demolition screen fabrics protect other buildings, vehicles,
and pedestrians. Medical textiles include warp-knit replacement veins, graphite fibers that lubri-
cate replacement joints, impermeable gloves and bandages that protect against infection, and
filter membranes in artificial kidney machines. (See Figures 1-2 and 1-3.) It is difficult to imagine
FIGURE 1-2 An example of a technical textile:
what life would be like without these amazing technical textiles!
A warp-knit snow fence reduces snowdrifts on
Smart textiles sense and react to the environment or stimuli of an driveways and roads.
electrical, chemical, thermal, mechanical, magnetic, or other nature. These Source: Image courtesy of Sara Kadolph.

Textile Brief
fabrics are also known by such terms as smart fabrics, interactive textiles,
or intelligent textiles. Smart textiles control delivery of medication, monitor
pulse and body temperature, sense seat occupancy in vehicles, promote
2
Textiles are soft goods and include apparel,
heat loss in warm weather, and reduce heat loss in cold weather. interior, and technical items. They add variety
and interest to our activities and make our lives
more comfortable and safer. Smart textiles sense
and react to the environment or other stimuli.
The Global Textile Complex
The global textile complex developed from an arts and crafts industry and
guilds in the early centuries through the Industrial Revolution in the 18th and 19th centuries that
emphasized mechanization and mass production to the 21st century that emphasized science,
technology, quality, and cost efficiency. In the last century, advances in manufactured fibers,
textured yarns, fabrications, chemical finishes, and refined textile production and marketing
systems occurred.
Sustainability is of increasing interest because the production, use, cleaning, and dis-
posal of textiles affect individuals, communities, and nations. Nylon carpets and polyester
beverage bottles that might have gone to landfills are recycled into new textile products.
Consider three T-shirts: one of recycled cotton and recycled polyester made in Haiti, one
of organic cotton made in the USA, and one of bamboo rayon made in China. What makes
one more sustainable than another? Increasing awareness of world resource limits drives FIGURE 1-3 Textiles used in the medical and
research on using renewable resources, reducing energy and water use in textile produc- health care fields: knee brace, wide “Ace” wrap,
tion and finishing, altering cleaning processes, using less harmful chemicals, and recycling. self-adhesive wrap, adhesive tape, elastic wrap,
wrist brace, gauze, and bandage (clockwise from
Revising government policies and trade practices will make the global textile industry more
top to center).
sustainable. Source: Image courtesy of Sara Kadolph.

The global textile complex is the worldwide mix of related industries that provide soft
goods for the world’s population. It is one
of the world’s largest industries. Figure 1-4
shows its major components: the natural and
manufactured fiber producers, yarn spin- Learning Activity 2
ners, fabric mills that weave and knit fabric, List the textile products you have used today. Organize your list into three categories: apparel, interior,
tufters who make carpet and upholstery fab- or technical. (Use Table 1-1 to identify technical textiles.) Compare your list with other students’ lists.
rics, nonwoven fabric producers, finishers Identify some common and some unusual items on the lists. In a group of three to four students, discuss
how textiles have contributed to your quality of life. What parts of your day would not have been possible
and dyers, equipment producers, and oth-
without these textile products? Has anyone worn or used any smart textiles today? If yes, ask them to
ers. While the average person is not aware of
describe or display the textile product and explain it.
the many dimensions of the textile complex,

introduction to textiles 7
 Consumer
Consumers

Distribution
Wholesale and Retail
Operations, Military and
Institutional Purchasers

Manufacturing
Product Manufacturer:

Product
Label &
Private
Apparel, Interior, and
Technical Products

Finishing and Dyeing/Printing

Facilities/Mills

Textile Mills, Jobbers, Converters

Textile Mills—Fabricators:
Film & Membrane Nonwoven Fabric Woven, Knit, Lace, Braid,
Composite, and others

Yarn Processing/Yarn Mill

Synthetic Fibers
(Spun & Filament)

Manufactured Natural Cellulosic Natural Protein

Fibers Fibers Fibers

Synthetic Polymers Plants Animals/Insects

Fiber Industry
Raw Materials Sunlight, Water, Air,
(Chemicals) and Soil Nutrients

FIGURE 1-4 The global textile complex.

Textile Brief 3 huge segments of the world population develop, engineer, design, produce,
evaluate, market, and transport textiles and textile products.
The global textile complex is the worldwide mix At one time, textile products were produced and sold in a single
of related industries that provide soft goods for country. Now, many segments of the textile complex work globally with the
the world’s population. Globalization refers to
export and import of textiles. Globalization refers to companies purchasing
companies purchasing from and/or selling to
multiple sites in the world. The global textile from and/or selling to multiple sites in the world. While the textile complex
complex is one of the world’s largest industries has been international for centuries with early silk and natural dye trade
with a significant impact on the world economy. routes, globalization is a 20th-century development. Offshore production

8 chapter 1
where textile products are produced in one
country and sold in another country is one
aspect of globalization.
All industries face challenges related to
Learning Activity 3
Make a list of the countries identified on the labels of textile products with you today. Group them by
energy and water use and conservation, envi- type, country, and part of the world, such as shorts, China, Asia. Consult the world map in Appendix C to
ronmental quality, sustainability, noise abate- determine the locations. Share your results with your classmates. Do you see trends regarding product
ment, health, social responsibility, and safety types, countries, or parts of the world? What factors might shape these trends? What do you consider
when purchasing textile products that might affect these trends?
issues. Government policies affect consumers
by expanding information at point of purchase,
raising prices, limiting choices, and improving
product and environmental quality.
While thousands of jobs have moved offshore because of lower production costs, new jobs
have been created to ensure that offshore products meet customer requirements for design,
size, production, label, safety, performance, and quality standards. Getting a textile product to
the market is a long, involved process and involves many people with a wide range of skills.

Career Opportunities
A wide range of skills and textiles and textile product knowledge is needed to identify consumer
needs, design products to meet those needs, select materials and production facilities to make
up the products, produce products, ship and distribute products to retailers, promote and
market products, and manage the process (Figure 1-5). The people who perform these tasks
require advanced education. Information about positions within the global textile complex is
on many websites and includes requirements, responsibilities, performance expectations, and
salary. Assistant, associate, or trainee describes most entry-level positions: assistant store
manager, associate designer, or management trainee. Entry-, mid-, and upper-level posi-
tions are based on experience and performance. The differences among the levels relate to
the number of projects one person manages or supervises and the degree of independence FIGURE 1-5 The skills and talents of many
in decision making. Most often, you will be part of a team with each member having different people and businesses are involved in the global
responsibilities and titles. textile complex to be able to present this range of
merchandise to consumers.
Predicting styles and trends is important in the global textile complex. Merchandisers, buy- Source: Image courtesy of Sara Kadolph.
ers, managers, and designers predict styles and trends, understand the needs of their target
market, and develop merchandise lines. Merchandisers anticipate customer demand, ensure
that merchandise is in stock, understand data, take risks, and make decisions quickly. Product
coordinators track components, deadlines, and activities so that finished products are done on
schedule. Merchandising specialists represent manufacturers in retail stores and ensure good
product placement and appealing visual merchandising of their products.
Merchandise managers are often members of cross-functional teams representing merchan-
dising, design and product development, and
production who develop new products, con-

Learning Activity
duct competitive analyses, and evaluate prod-
uct assortments, quality, pricing strategies, and
business opportunities. Buyers manage and
4
project markdowns, analyze sales, understand Search the yellow pages of a local phone directory or the ads in a newspaper or magazine. Identify the
types of businesses that include apparel, interior textiles, and technical textiles and products within their
target markets for individual stores, plan mar-
merchandise mix or services provided. Discuss the range of business and product types and their impact
gins and open-to-buy, and communicate with
on local and global economies.
stores and vendors.

introduction to textiles 9
 Designers create product concepts. They create at all levels: yarns, fabrics (including nar-
row fabrics or trims), patterns for prints, and finished products. Creative designers focus on
specific product types, price points, and target markets. They forecast trends, create color
schemes, develop line concepts, coordinate product lines, and decide on silhouette, fabric, and
finishing. Technical or tech designers work at different stages in design and product develop-
ment. They determine material and product specifications, oversee execution, and ensure that
products meet appropriate laws, regulations, and codes. Tech designers work with creativity
teams, buyers, and sourcing specialists to ensure that designs are executed on time and at cost.
Print or textile designers develop prints and woven and knit fabrics for apparel and interiors.
Manufacturers and some retailers develop new products. Product development teams in-
clude creative designers, product development managers, merchandisers, technical designers,
and fit specialists. Teams analyze color and style trends, take a product from a rough sketch to
the consumer, define fit, and determine cost. Prototypes, original product samples, are evalu-
ated by combining performance testing with product testing. In performance testing, textiles
are evaluated in a specialized laboratory for performance related to color fastness, durability,
washability, and comfort. In product testing, individuals wear or use sample products to evaluate
fit, function, comfort, design, and other product characteristics. Quality assurance specialists
evaluate materials and products for adherence to company specifications and standards.
Materials and production sourcing specialists identify suppliers for materials or services
needed. These positions require some professional and international experience, good com-
munication skills in English and other languages, and a global perspective (Figure 1-6). Sourc-
ing production involves contractor selection and product management throughout production.
Fabric and trim buyers find fabric and trim and negotiate with producers regarding require-
ments, color, cost, and logistics. Production is the manufacturing of textiles or products.
Production managers direct workflow, assess and revise production to meet deadlines, and
ensure efficient and safe working conditions.
Managers work in departments, divisions, stores, or regions to maximize retail sales
and profit and ensure customer satisfaction with the merchandise and shopping experience.
Store managers direct merchandising, operational, and human resource functions in a store.

Fiber Industry Textile Industry End Uses Distribution

Interior textiles

Textile components Apparel industry

and processes (some Wholesale and
operations (examples):
are finished products) retail
Product development
operations
Natural fibers Cutting
among
Sewing
store and
Contracting
Operations (examples): nonstore
Manufactured Marketing
Yarn production formats
fibers Weaving
Knitting
Finishing Technical textiles
Dyeing and printing (examples):
Auto components
Belting, baggage,
construction materials,
and animal care

The Textile Complex

FIGURE 1-6 The supply chain for the global textile complex.
Source: Modified from K. G. Dickerson (1999), Textiles and Apparel in the Global Economy, Upper Saddle River, NJ: Merrill.

10 chapter 1
Allocators manage purchase orders from the initial contract through the product’s life cycle,
including reorders and consolidation of nonselling merchandise to other stores or sales ven-
ues. Visual merchandisers present merchandise in ways that will maximize sales.
Marketing includes advertising, marketing research, journalism, and display. Marketing
specialists develop product presentation and create its image. Sales representatives (sales reps)
market product lines to retailers, often in company showrooms located at headquarters or in a
merchandise center that groups similar merchandise lines together. Showroom managers and
staff explain a company’s line to retail buyers and designers. Sales reps may represent several
companies, product lines, or product types that complement each other. Fabric reps specialize
in selling fabric to producers, interior or apparel design firms, or consumer fabric stores. Fashion FIGURE 1-7 This fabric and textile accessories
shop in Malaysia shows how a small business in
writers develop the written and image-dense information about textile products while editors
Asia displays and promotes its merchandise.
coordinate written pieces and ensure that they are suitable for specific audiences. Source: Image courtesy of Sara Kadolph.

Multichannel marketing includes mail order, kiosk, direct, home shopping networks, and
e-commerce. Just as with other merchandising positions, these relate to

Textile Brief
buying or developing merchandise for presentation to consumers. Fashion
and event coordinators or managers promote fashion shows, trunk shows,
and other fashion events for retailers, malls, designers, apparel marts and
4
centers, and the entertainment industry. Entrepreneurs and small-business The global textile complex employs a huge number
owners run every part of their business: identify the target market and prod-
of people who identify consumer needs, design
products to meet those needs, select materials and
uct mix, source materials and supplies, promote and sell the merchandise or
production facilities to manufacture the products,
service, hire staff, arrange finances, develop budgets, and maintain the store ship and distribute products to retailers, promote
or facilities (Figure 1-7). and market products, and manage the process.
Governments are large consumers of textile products. Purchasing Selecting an appropriate career in the global
officers locate producers and verify that textile products meet specific textile complex is based on understanding your
requirements. Sourcing specialists locate the textile items needed. Customs skills, talents, knowledge, and experience.
officials and inspectors ensure that imported goods meet legal and trade
requirements. Government employees develop, enforce, or interpret laws
and regulations.
All professional positions require lifelong education to keep current with new developments
in the field. Textbooks are excellent resources for a professional library. To keep current, regularly
read magazines, journals, and other publications. Workshops or short courses are offered through
colleges, universities, professional organizations, or private companies.

Textile Laws and Regulations

The global market provides more options for
textile products compared with those available

Learning Activity
in domestic markets. These additional options
create challenges for buyers and consumers.
Many items look alike but differ in their per-
5
formance and care. Knitted fabrics look like Many positions in the global textile complex require teamwork. Describe a situation in which you were a
woven fabrics, synthetic films look like leather, team member, such as a class project, job, or competitive (music, debate, math, or athletic) team. Explain
and manufactured fibers look like natural fibers. how the team worked, who lead the team, and how the team depended on each member. Did all team
members contribute equally? What characteristics are desirable in team members? Do you exhibit that
Information requirements, standards for
behavior as a team member? How can you modify your behavior to be a better team member? How can
performance, and quality assurance programs
this information help you develop a strong résumé?
for textile products aid in textile selection. Laws

introduction to textiles 11
 and regulations inform consumers of fiber con-

Learning Activity 6
tent and care requirements and protect them
from unsafe textiles, improperly labeled mer-
chandise, and other unfair trade practices.
Talk to upper-level students who have had internships in an area or company of interest to you. What
preparation did they need in order to secure the internship? What did they do during their internship? Other laws and regulations protect the environ-
What did they learn about the global textile complex while involved in the internship? What did they learn ment and regulate trade. These laws and regu-
about themselves while interning with the company? How can you use that information to improve your lations are mandatory: Producers and retailers
internship opportunities? must include the required information and it
must be correct and documented. Products
that do not adhere to the law violate federal code; violations are subject to legal action by the
appropriate federal agency as well as legal recourse from businesses and consumers.
The financial and public relations implications of failure to comply with legal requirements
are substantial. Professionals must meet legal requirements in all countries involved in the pro-
duction, distribution, and sales of textiles and textile products. Many laws and regulations focus
on labeling that provides consumers with information so that they can make decisions regard-
ing the purchase, use, safety, and care of textile products (Figure 1-8). In the United States,
the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) interprets and enforces laws and regulations to protect
consumers and domestic segments of the global textile complex. The FTC is responsible for
preventing such unfair or deceptive trade practices as the marketing of deliberately unlabeled or
mislabeled textile products. Most countries have similar laws and regulations.
Wool may be blended with less expensive fibers to reduce fabric cost and to extend its
FIGURE 1-8 Product labels: washcloth, T-shirt, use. The Wool Products Labeling Act (WPLA) protects consumers, producers, manufactur-
blazer (removed from garment), jacket (left to right, ers, and distributors from the unrevealed presence of other fibers; describes the fiber source
top row), and pillowcase (removed from item)
(see Chapter 3); and applies to all textile products containing wool, except carpets, rugs,
(bottom).
Source: Image courtesy of Sara Kadolph. mats, and upholstery. Fiber produced by sheep, lamb, Angora goat, cashmere goat, camel,
alpaca, llama, and vicuña are defined as wool. Details of fiber size for fine wool
and cashmere identify these more expensive fibers. Fiber from any other

Textile Brief 5
animal is fur fiber. The manufacturer’s name or its registered identification
number also must be on the label as a WPL (wool product label) or RN
(registered number). Labels also name the country where the product
Because of the large number of textile fibers
on the market, several laws and regulations was manufactured or processed. Labels must be sewn into an item in a
require that manufacturers and retailers provide specified location based on product type.
consumers with accurate information so that they The Fur Products Labeling Act (FPLA) applies to furs—items of ani-
can make informed decisions. Label requirements mal origin with the hair or fiber attached (see Chapter 8). The FPLA requires
exist for most textile products. Generic fibers identification of the animal’s true English language name; modifications to
are defined by the Federal Trade Commission, the
the fur such as dyeing, tip dyeing, and other means of artificially altering
government body responsible for enforcing these
regulations. Required information, in English, the color or appearance of the fur; the country of origin; and the presence
includes fiber name and percent, country of of used, damaged, or scrap fur. The act protects consumers from buying
origin, and for wool, the fiber source. inexpensive furs sold under names implying expensive furs. For example,
prior to this law, rabbit was sold under such false names as lapin, chinchil-
ette, northern seal, Belgian beaver, and Baltic leopard.
The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (TFPIA) protects consumers and produc-
ers from unfair competition resulting from the unrevealed presence of substitute materials in
textile products. The TFPIA covers all fibers except those already covered by the Wool Products
Labeling Act. The list of manufactured fiber generic names in Table 1-2 is updated by the FTC
when a new generic fiber name is approved. A generic fiber is a family of fibers with a similar
chemical nature. Generic names must be identified at point of purchase.

12 chapter 1
Another Random Scribd Document
with Unrelated Content
 Tofa´na, of Palermo, a noted poisoner, who sold a tasteless,
colorless poison, called the Manna of St. Nicola of Bara, but better
known as Aqua Tofana. Above 600 persons fell victims to this fatal
drug. She was discovered in 1659, and died 1730.
La Spara or Hieronyma Spara, about a century previously, sold an
“elixir” equally fatal. The secret was ultimately revealed to her father
confessor.

Tofts (Mistress), a famous singer towards the close of the

eighteenth century. She was very fond of cats, and left a legacy to
twenty of the tabby tribe.

Not Niobê mourned more for fourteen brats,

Nor Mistress Tofts, to leave her twenty cats.
Peter Pindar [Dr. Wolcot], Old Simon (1809).

Toinette, a confidential female servant of Argan, the malade

imaginaire. “Adroite, soigneuse, diligente, et surtout fidèle,” but
contractious, and always calling into action her master’s irritable
temper. In order to cure him, she pretends to be a travelling
physician of about 90 years of age, although she has not seen
twenty-six summers; and in the capacity of a Galen, declares M.
Argan is suffering from lungs, recommends that one arm should be
cut off, and one eye taken out to strengthen the remaining one. She
enters into a plot to open the eyes of Argan to the real affection of
Angelique (his daughter), the false love of her stepmother, and to
marry the former to Cléante, the man of her choice, in all which
schemes she is fully successful.--Molière, Le Malade Imaginaire
(1673).

Toison d’Or, chief herald of Burgundy.--Sir W. Scott, Quentin

Durward, and Anne of Geierstein (time, Edward IV.).

Toki, the Danish William Tell. Saxo Grammaticus, a Danish writer

of the twelfth century, tells us that Toki once boasted, in the hearing
of Harald Bluetooth, that he could hit an apple with his arrow off a
pole; and the Danish Gessler set him to try his skill by placing an
apple on the head of the archer’s son (twelfth century).

Tolande of Anjou, a daughter of old King Réné of Provence, and

sister of Margaret of Anjou (wife of Henry VI. of England).--Sir W.
Scott, Anne of Geierstein (time, Edward IV.).

Tolbooth (The), the principal prison of Edinburgh.

The Tolbooth felt defrauded of his charms

If Jeffrey died, except within her arms.
Byron, English Bards and Scotch Reviewers (1809).

Lord Byron refers to the “duel” between Francis Jeffrey, editor of

the Edinburgh Review, and Thomas Moore, the poet, at Chalk Farm,
in 1806. The duel was interrupted, and it was then found that
neither of the pistols contained a bullet.

Can none remember the eventful day,

That ever-glorious, almost fatal fray,
When Little’s [Thomas Moore] leadless pistol met his eye,
And Bow Street myrmidons stood laughing by?
Ditto.

Tolme´tes (3 syl.), Foolhardiness personified in The Purple

Island, fully described in canto viii. His companions were Arrogance,
Brag, Carelessness, and Fear. (Greek, tolmêtês, “a foolhardy man.”)

Thus ran the rash Tolmetes, never viewing

The fearful fiends that duly him attended ...
Much would he boldly do, but much more boldly vaunt.
P. Fletcher, The Purple Island, viii. (1633).

Tom, “the Portugal dustman,” who joined the allied army against
France in the war of the Spanish Succession.--Dr. Arbuthnot, History
of John Bull (1712).
 Tom, one of the servants of Mr. Peregrine Lovel, “with a good deal
of surly honesty about him.” Tom is no sneak, and no tell-tale, but
he refuses to abet Philip, the butler, in sponging on his master, and
wasting his property in riotous living. When Lovel discovers the state
of affairs, and clears out his household, he retains Tom, to whom he
entrusts the cellar and the plate.--Rev. J. Townley, High Life Below
Stairs (1750).

Tom Folio, Thomas Rawlinson, the bibliopolist (1681-1725).

Tom Jones (1 syl.), a model of generosity, openness, and manly

spirit, mixed with dissipation. Lord Byron calls him “an accomplished
blackguard” (Don Juan, xiii. 110, 1824).--Fielding, Tom Jones (1749).
A hero with a flawed reputation, a hero sponging for a guinea, a hero who
cannot pay his landlady, and is obliged to let his honor out to hire, is absurd, and
the claim of Tom Jones to heroic rank is quite untenable.--Thackeray.

Tom Long, the hero of an old tale, entitled The Merry Conceits of
Tom Long, the Carrier, being many Pleasant Passages and Mad
Pranks which he observed in his Travels. This tale was at one time
amazingly popular.

Tom Scott, Daniel Quilp’s boy, Tower Hill. Although Quilp was a
demon incarnate, yet “between the boy and the dwarf there existed
a strange kind of mutual liking.” Tom was very fond of standing on
his head, and on one occasion Quilp said to him, “Stand on your
head again, and I’ll cut one of your feet off.”
The boy made no answer, but directly Quilp had shut himself in, stood on his
head before the door, then walked on his hands to the back, and stood on his
head there, then to the opposite side and repeated the performance.... Quilp,
knowing his disposition, was lying in wait at a little distance, armed with a large
piece of wood, which, being rough and jagged, and studded with broken nails,
might possibly have hurt him, if it had been thrown at him.--C. Dickens, The Old
Curiosity Shop, v. (1840).

Tom Thumb, the name of a very diminutive little man in the

court of King Arthur, killed by the poisonous breath of a spider, in the
reign of King Thunstone, the successor of Arthur. In the Bodleian
Library there is a ballad about Tom Thumb, which was printed in
1630. Richard Johnson wrote in prose, The History of Tom Thumbe,
which was printed in 1621. In 1630, Charles Perrault published his
tale called Le Petit Poucet. Tom Thumb is introduced by Drayton in
his Nymphidia (1563-1631).
“Tom” in this connection is the Swedish tomt (“a nix or dwarf”), as
in Tomptgubbe (“a brownie or kobold”); the final t is silent, and the
tale is of Scandinavian origin.

Tom Thumb, a burlesque opera, altered by Kane O’Hara (author of

Midas), in 1778, from a dramatic piece by Fielding, the novelist
(1730). Tom Thumb, having killed the giants, falls in love with
Huncamunca, daughter of King Arthur. Lord Grizzle wishes to marry
the princess, and when he hears that the “pygmy giant-queller” is
preferred before him, his lordship turns traitor, invests the palace “at
the head of his rebellious rout,” and is slain by Tom. Then follows the
bitter end: A red cow swallows Tom, the queen, Dollallolla, kills
Noodle, Frizaletta kills the queen, Huncamunca kills Frizaletta,
Doodle kills Huncamunca, Plumantê kills Doodle, and the king, being
left alone, stabs himself. Merlin now enters, commands the red cow
to “return our England’s Hannibal,” after which the wise wizard
restores all the slain ones to life again, and thus “jar ending,” each
resolves to go home “and make a night on’t.”

Tom Tiddler’s Ground, a nook in a rustic by-road, where Mr.

Mopes, the hermit, lived, and had succeeded in laying it waste. In
the middle of the plot was a ruined hovel, without one patch of glass
in the windows, and with no plank or beam that had not rotted or
fallen away. There was a slough of water, a leafless tree or two, and
plenty of filth. Rumor said that Tom Mopes had murdered his
beautiful wife from jealousy, and had abandoned the world. Mr.
Traveller tried to reason with him, and bring him back to social life,
but the tinker replied, “When iron is thoroughly rotten you cannot
botch it, do what you may.”--C. Dickens, A Christmas Number
(1861).
 Tom Tiler and His Wife, a transition play between a morality
and a tragedy (1578).

Tom Tipple, a highwayman in Captain Macheath’s gang.

Peachum calls him “a guzzling, soaking sot, always too drunk to
stand himself or to make others stand. A cart,” he says, “is
absolutely necessary for him.”--Gray, The Beggar’s Opera, i. (1727).

Tom Tram, the hero of a novel entitled The Mad Pranks of Tom
Tram, Son-in-Law to Mother Winter, whereunto is added His Merry
Jests, Odd Conceits and Pleasant Tales (seventeenth century).

All your wits that fleer and sham,

Down from Don Quixote to Tom Tram.
Prior.

Tom-a-Thrum, a sprite which figures in the fairy tales of the

Middle Ages; a “queer-looking little auld man,” whose chief exploits
were in the vaults and cellars of old castles. John Skelton, speaking
of the clergy, says:

Alas! for very shame, some cannot declyne their name;

Some cannot scarsly rede, And yet will not drede
For to kepe a cure.... As wyse as Tom-a-Thrum.
Colyn Clout (time, Henry VIII.).

Tom o’ Bedlam, a ticket-of-leave madman from Bethlehem

Hospital, or one discharged as incurable.

Tom of Ten Thousand, Thomas Thynne; so called from his great

wealth. He was buried in Westminster Abbey, but why, the then
dean has not thought fit to leave on record.

Tom the Piper, one of the characters in the ancient morris-

dance, represented with a tabor, tabor-stick and pipe. He carried a
sword and shield, to denote his rank as a “squire minstrel.” His shoes
were brown; his hose red and “gimp-thighed;” his hat or cap, red,
turned up with yellow, and adorned with a feather; his doublet blue,
the sleeves being turned up with yellow; and he wore a yellow cape
over his shoulders. (See Morris-Dance.)

Tom Turner (Mrs.), unsophisticated country dame, whose head is

turned by the feigned devotion of a man to whom “flirting is a part
of daily existence.” “Mrs. Tom” dresses flashily, in imitation of the
butterflies of fashion whom she meets in her new career as a
woman of the world, affects airs and graces foreign to her nature,
and plays the fool generally until shocked into her senses by a letter
from her quiet, commonplace husband, telling her that he “has gone
away and that she will not see him again.” She follows him, entreats
forgiveness, returns to home and plain living, and, as a characteristic
penance, wears her gaudy costumes out as everyday gowns. There
were thirty of them at first. “I’ve worn them all almost out. When I
get to the end of them I’ll have my own things again.”--H. C. Bunner,
Mrs. Tom’s Spree (1891).

Tomahourich (Muhme Janet of), an old sibyl, aunt of Robin Oig

M’Combich, the Highland drover.--Sir W. Scott, The Two Drovers
(time, George III.).

Tom´alin, a valiant fairy knight, kinsman of King Obĕron. Tomălin

is not the same as “Tom Thumb,” as we are generally but
erroneously told, for in the “mighty combat” Tomalin backed
Pigwiggen, while Tom Thum or Thumb, seconded King Oberon. This
fairy battle was brought about by the jealousy of Oberon, who
considered the attentions of Pigwiggen to Queen Mab were “far too
nice.”--M. Drayton, Nymphidia (1563-1631).

Tomb (Knight of the), James, earl of Douglas in disguise.

His armor was ingeniously painted so as to represent a skeleton; the ribs being
constituted by the corselet and its back-piece. The shield represented an owl with
its wings spread--a device which was repeated upon the helmet, which appeared
to be completely covered by an image of the same bird of ill omen. But that which
was particularly calculated to excite surprise in the spectator was the great height
and thinness of the figure.--Sir W. Scott, Castle Dangerous, xiv. (time, Henry I.).

Tomboy (Priscilla), a self-willed, hoydenish, ill-educated romp, of

strong animal spirits, and wholly unconventional. She is a West
Indian, left under the guardianship of Barnacle, and sent to London
for her education. Miss Priscilla Tomboy lives with Barnacle’s brother,
old [Nicholas] Cockney, a grocer, where she plays boy-and-girl love
with young Walter Cockney, which consists chiefly in pettish quarrels
and personal insolence. Subsequently she runs off with Captain
Sightly, but the captain behaves well by presenting himself next day
to the guardian, and obtaining his consent to marriage.--The Romp
(altered from Bickerstaff’s Love in the City).

Tomès [Tō-may], one of the five physicians called in by

Sganarelle to consult on the malady of his daughter, Lucinde (2 syl.).
Being told that a coachman he was attending was dead and buried,
the doctor asserted it to be quite impossible, as the coachman had
been ill only six days, and Hippocrătês had positively stated that the
disorder would not come to its height till the fourteenth day. The five
doctors meet in consultation, talk of the town gossip, their medical
experience, their visits, anything, in short, except the patient. At
length the father enters to inquire what decision they had come to.
One says Lucinde must have an emetic, M. Tomès says she must be
blooded; one says an emetic will be her death, the other that
bleeding will infallibly kill her.
M. Tomès, Si vous ne faites saigner tout à l’heure votre fille, c’est une personne
morte.
M. Desfonandrès, Si vous la faites saigner, elle ne sera pas en vie dans un quart-
d’-heure.

And they quit the house in great anger (act. ii. 4).--Molière,
L’Amour Médecin (1665).

Tomkins (Joseph), secret emissary of Cromwell. He was formerly

Philip Hazeldine, alias Master Fibbet, secretary to Colonel
Desborough (one of the parliamentary commissioners).--Sir W. Scott,
Woodstock (time, Commonwealth).

Tom´yris, queen of the Massagētæ. She defeated Cyrus, who

had invaded her kingdom, and, having slain him, threw his head into
a vessel filled with human blood, saying, “It was blood you thirsted
for; now take your fill!”

Great bronze valves embossed with Tomyris.

Tennyson, The Princess, v.

[I] was shown the seath and cruel mangling made

By Tomyris on Cyrus, when she cried,
“Blood thou didst thirst for; take thy fill of blood!”
Dantê, Purgatory, xii (1308).

Ton-Iosal was so heavy and unwieldy that when he sat down it

took the whole force of a hundred men to set him upright on his feet
again.--The Fiona.
If Fion was remarkable for his stature, ... in weight all yielded to the celebrated
Ton-Iosal.--J. Macpherson, Dissertation on Ossian.

Ton-Thena (“fire of the wave”), a remarkable star which guided

Larthon to Ireland, as mentioned in Ossian’s Tem´ora, vii., and called
in Cathlin of Clutha, “the red traveller of the clouds.”

Tonio, a young Tyrolese, who saved Maria, the sutler-girl, when

on the point of falling down a precipice. The two, of course, fall in
love with each other, and the regiment, which had adopted the
sutler-girl, consents to their marriage, provided Tonio will enlist
under its flag. No sooner is this done than the marchioness of
Berkenfield lays claim to Maria as her daughter, and removes her to
the castle. In time, the castle is besieged and taken by the very
regiment into which Tonio had enlisted, and, as Tonio had risen to
the rank of a French officer, the marchioness consents to his
marriage with her daughter.--Donizetti, La Figlia del Reggimento
(1840).

Tonna (Mrs.), Charlotte Elizabeth (1792-1846).

Tonto (Don Cherubin), canon of Tole´do, the weakest mortal in

the world, though, by his smirking air, you would fancy him a wit.
When he hears a delicate performance read, he listens with such
attention as seems full of intelligence, but all the while he
understands nothing of the matter.--Lesage, Gil Blas, v. 12 (1724).

Tonton, the smallest dog that ever existed. When the three
princes of a certain king were sent to procure the tiniest dog they
could find, as a present to their aged father, the White Cat gave the
youngest of them a dog, so small that it was packed in wadding in a
common acorn shell.
As soon as the acorn was opened, they all saw a little dog laid in cotton, and so
small it might jump through a finger-ring without touching it.... It was a mixture of
several colors; its ears and long hair reached to the ground. The prince set it on
the ground, and forthwith the tiny creature began to dance a saraband with
castanets.--Comtesse D’Aunoy, Fairy Tales (“The White Cat,” 1682)

Tony Lumpkin, a young booby, fond of practical jokes, and low

company. He was the son of Mrs. Hardcastle by her first husband.--
Goldsmith, She Stoops to Conquer (1773).

Tony Tyler, on the editorial staff of the Tecumseh Chronicle. “He

knows about eighteen hundred times as much as Samboye
(managing editor) does, only somehow, he hasn’t the faculty of
putting it on paper. Too much whiskey!”--Harold Frederic, Seth’s
Brother’s Wife (1886).

Toodle, engine-fireman, an honest fellow, very proud of his wife,

Polly, and her family.
Polly Toodle, known by the name of Richards, wife of the stoker.
Polly was an apple-faced woman, and was mother of a large, apple-
faced family. This jolly, homely, kind-hearted matron was selected as
the nurse of Paul Dombey, and soon became devotedly attached to
Paul and his sister, Florence.
Robin Toodle, known as “The Biler,” or “Rob the Grinder,” eldest
son of Mrs. Toodle, wet-nurse of Paul Dombey. Mr. Dombey gets
Robin into an institution called “The Charitable Grinders,” where the
worst part of the boy’s character is freely developed. Robin becomes
a sneak, and enters the service of James Carker, manager of the
firm of Dombey and Son. On the death of Carker, Robin enters the
service of Miss Lucretia Tox.--C. Dickens, Dombey and Son (1846).

Toom Tabard (“empty jacket”), a nickname given to John Balliol,

because his appointment to the sovereignty of Scotland was an
empty name. He had the royal robe or jacket, but nothing else
(1259, 1292-1314).

Tooth Worshipped (A). The people of Ceylon worship the tooth

of an elephant; those of Malabar, the tooth of a monkey. The
Siamese once offered a Portuguese 700,000 ducats for the
redemption of a monkey’s tooth.

Tooth-picks. The Romans used tooth-picks made of mastic

wood, in preference to quills; hence, Rabelais says that Prince
Gargantua “picked his teeth with mastic tooth-pickers” (s’escuroit les
dents avecques ung trou de lentisce), bk. i. 23.

Lentiscum melius; sed si tibi frondea cuspis

Defuerit, dentes, penna, levare potes.
Martial, Epigrams, xx. 24.

Toots (Mr.), an innocent, warm-hearted young man, just burst

from the bonds of Dr. Blimber’s school, and deeply in love with
Florence Dombey. He is famous for blushing, refusing what he longs
to accept, and for saying, “Oh, it is of no consequence.” Being very
nervous, he never appears to advantage, but in the main, “there
were few better fellows in the world.”
 “I assure you,” said Mr. Toots, “really I am dreadfully sorry, but it’s of no
consequence.”--C. Dickens, Dombey and Son, xxviii. (1846).

Topas (Sir), a native of Poperyng, in Flanders; a capital

sportsman, archer, wrestler, and runner. Chaucer calls him “Sir
Thopas” (q.v.).

Topas (Sir). Sir Charles Dilke was so called by the Army and Navy
Gazette, November 25, 1871 (1810-1869).

Topham (Master Charles), usher of the black rod.--Sir W. Scott,

Peveril of the Peak (time, Charles II.).

Topsy, a young slave-girl, who never knew whether she had

either father or mother, and being asked by Miss Ophelia St. Clare,
how she supposed she came into the world, replied, “I ’spects I
growed.”--Harriet Beecher Stowe, Uncle Tom’s Cabin (1852).

Tor (Sir), the natural son of King Pellinore, and the wife of Aries,
the cowherd. He was the first of the knights of the Round Table.--Sir.
T. Malory, History of Prince Arthur, i. 24 (1470).

Toralva (The licentiate), mounted on a cane, was conveyed

through the air with his eyes shut; in twelve hours he arrived at
Rome, and the following morning returned to Madrid. During his
flight he opened his eyes once, and found himself so near the moon
that he could have touched it with his finger.--Cervantes, Don
Quixote, II. iii. 5 (1615). (See Torralba.)

Tordenskiol [Tor´.den.skole], or the “Thunder-Shield.” So Peder

Wessel, vice-admiral of Denmark (in the reign of Christian V.), was
called. He was brought up as a tailor, and died in a duel.

From Denmark thunders Tordenskiol;

Let each to heaven commend his soul,
And fly.
Longfellow, King Christian [V.].
 Torfe (Mr. George), provost of Orkney.--Sir W. Scott, The Pirate
(time, William III.).

Tormes (Lazarillo de), by Diego Hurtado de Mendoza (sixteenth

century); a kind of Gil Blas, whose adventures and roguish tricks are
the first of a very popular sort of novel called the Gusto Picaresco.
Lesage has imitated it in his Gil Blas, and we have numberless
imitations in our own language. (See Tyll Owlyglass.)
The ideal Yankee, in whom European prejudice has combined the attractive
traits of a Gines de Passamonte, a Joseph Surface, a Lazarillo de Tormes, a Scapin,
a Thersitês, and an Autolycus.--W. H. Hurlburt.

⁂ “Gines de Passamonte,” in Don Quixote, by Cervantes; “Joseph

Surface,” in The School for Scandal, by Sheridan; “Scapin,” in Les
Fourberies de Scapin, by Molière; “Thersitês,” in Homer’s Iliad, i.;
“Autolycus,” in the Winter’s Tale, by Shakespeare.

Tormot, youngest son of Torquil, of the Oak (foster-father of

Eachin M’Ian).--Sir W. Scott, Fair Maid of Perth (time, Henry IV.).

Torquato, that is, Torquato Tasso, the Italian poet, author of

Jerusalem Delivered (1544-1595). After the publication of his great
epic, Tasso lived in the court of Ferrara, and conceived a violent
passion for Leonora, one of the duke’s sisters, but fled, in 1577, to
Naples.

Torquato’s tongue
Was tuned for slavish pæans at the throne
Of tinsel pomp.
Akenside, Pleasures of Imagination, ii. (1744).

Torquil of the Oak, foster-father of Eachin M’Ian. He was chief

of the clan Quhele, and had eight sons, the finest men in the clan.
Torquil was a seer, who was supposed to have communication with
the invisible world, and he declared a demon had told him that
Eachin or Hector M’Ian, was the only man in the two hostile clans of
Chattan and Quhele who would come off scathless in the
approaching combat (ch xxvi.).--Sir W. Scott, Fair Maid of Perth
(time, Henry IV.).
A parallel combat is described in The Cid. When Sancho of Castile
was stabbed by Bellĭdo of Zamora, Diego Ordoñez, of the house of
Lara, challenged five of the knights of Zamora to a single combat.
Don Arias Gonzalo and his four sons accepted the challenge. Pedro
Arias was first slain, then his brother, Diego. Next came Herman,
who received a mortal wound, but struck the charger of Diego
Ordoñez. The charger, furious with pain, carried its rider beyond the
lists, and the combat was declared to be drawn.

Torralba (Dr.), carried by the spirit Cequiel from Valladŏlid to

Rome and back again in an hour and a half. He was tried by the
Inquisition for sorcery (time, Charles V.).--Joseph de Ossau Pellicer
(seventeenth century). (See Toralva.)

Torre (Sir), son of Sir Bernard, baron of Astolat. His brother was
Sir Lavaine, and his sister Elaine “the lily maid of Astolat.” He was
blunt-mannered, but not without kindness of heart.--Tennyson, Idylls
of the King (“Elaine”).
The word “Torre” is a blunder for Tirre. Sir Torre or Tor, according
to Arthurian legend, was the natural son of Pellinore, king of Wales,
“begotten of Aries’ wife, the cowherd” (pt. ii. 108). It was Sir Tirre
who was the brother of Elaine (pt. iii. 122).--Sir T. Malory, History of
Prince Arthur (1470).

Tor´rismond, general of the forces of Aragon. He falls in love

with Leonora, the usurping queen, promised in marriage to Bertran,
prince of the blood-royal, but she falls in love with Torrismond, who
turns out to be the son of Sancho, the deposed king. Ultimately
Sancho is restored, and Leonora is married to Torrismond.--Dryden,
The Spanish Fryar (1680),

Torso Farne´se (3 syl.), Dircê and her sons, the work of

Apollonius and Tauriscus of Rhodes.
 Toshach Beg, the “second” of M’Gillie Chattanach, chief of the
clan Chattan, in the great combat.--Sir W. Scott, Fair Maid of Perth
(time, Henry IV.).

Tottenham in Boots, a popular toast in Ireland in 1734. Mr.

Tottenham gave the casting vote which threw out a Government bill
very obnoxious to the Irish, on the subject of the Irish parliament.
He had come from the country, and rushed into the House, without
changing his boots just in time to give his vote, which prevented the
bill from passing by a majority of one.

Totterly (Lord), an Adonis of 60, and a ci-devant Jeune Homme.--

C. Selby, The Unfinished Gentleman.

Touchet [Too-shay]. When Charles IX. introduced Henri of

Navarre to Marie Touchet, the witty Navarrese made this anagram of
her name, Je charme tout.

Touchetts (The). Mrs. Touchett, “plain-faced old woman, without

coquetry, and without any great elegance, but with an extreme
respect for her own motives. Mrs. Touchett might do a great deal of
good, but she never pleases.” She lives in Florence, her husband in
London.
Mr. Touchett, “a gentle, refined, fastidious old man, combining
consummate shrewdness with a sort of fraternizing good humor.” His
feeling about his own position in the world is of the democratic sort.
Ralph Touchett, philosophical invalid, whose interest in his cousin
Isabel is believed by most people to be brotherly. In order that she
may not feel obliged to marry for a support, he persuades his father
to divide his (Ralph’s) inheritance into two equal parts and give one-
half, unconditionally, to Isabel. She is married for this fortune, and, a
miserable woman, comes against her husband’s will, to see her
cousin die happy because she is with him.--Henry James, Jr., Portrait
of a Lady (1881).
 Touchfaucet (Captain), in Picrochole’s army, taken captive by
Friar John. Being presented to Grangousier and asked the cause of
his king’s invasion, he replied, “To avenge the injury done to the
cake-bakers of Lernê” (ch. 25, 26). Grangousier commanded his
treasurer to give the friar 62,000 saluts (£15,500) in reward, and to
Touchfaucet he gave “an excellent sword of a Vienne blade, with a
gold scabbard, and a collar of gold weighing 702,000 merks
(576,000 ounces), garnished with precious stones, and valued at
£16,000 sterling, by way of present.” Returning to King Picrochole,
he advised him to capitulate, whereupon Rashcalf cried aloud,
“Unhappy the prince who has traitors for his counsellors!” and
Touchfaucet, drawing “his new sword,” ran him through the body.
The king demanded who gave him the sword, and being told the
truth, ordered his guards “to hew him in pieces.”--Rabelais,
Gargantua, i. 45-47 (1533).

Touching for the King’s Evil. It is said that scrofulous diseases

were at one time very prevalent in the island, and that Edward the
Confessor, in answer to earnest prayer, was told it would be cured by
the royal touch. Edward, being gifted with this miraculous power,
transmitted it as an heir-loom to his successors. Henry VII.
presented each person touched with a small coin, called a touch-
piece or touch-penny.
Charles II. of England, during his reign, touched as many as
92,107 persons; the smallest number (2983) being in the year 1669,
and the largest number in 1684, when many were trampled to death
(see Macaulay’s History of England, xiv.). In these “touchings,” John
Brown, a royal surgeon, superintended the ceremony. (See Macbeth,
act iv. sc. 3.)
Prince Charles Edward, who claimed to be prince of Wales,
touched a female child for the disease in 1745.
The French kings claimed the same divine power from Anne of
Clovis, A.D. 481. And on Easter Sunday, 1686, Louis XIV. touched
1600, using these words, Le roy te touche, Dieu te guerisse.
⁂ Dr. Johnson was the last person touched. The touch-piece
given to him has on one side this legend, Soli Deo gloria, and on the
other side, Anna D: G. M. BR. F: et H. REG. (“Anne, by the grace of
God, of Great Britain, France and Ireland, queen”).

Our good Edward he, the Confessor and king ...

That cancred evil cured, bred ’twixt the throat and jaws,
When physic could not find the remedy nor cause ...
He of Almighty God obtained by earnest prayer,
This tumor by a king might curêd be alone,
Which he an heir-loom left unto the English throne.
Drayton, Polyolbion, xi. (1613).

Touchstone, a clown filled with “quips and cranks and wanton

wiles.” The original of this character was Tarlton, the favorite court
jester of Queen Elizabeth.--Shakespeare, As You Like It (1598).
His famous speech is “the seven degrees of affront:” (1) the retort
courteous, (2) the quip modest, (3) the reply churlish, (4) the
reproof valiant, (5) the counter-check quarrelsome, (6) the lie
circumstantial, (7) the lie direct (act v. sc. 4).

Touchwood (Colonel), “the most passionate, impatient,

unreasonable, good-natured man in Christendom.” Uncle of Major
and Clarissa Touchwood.
Sophia Touchwood, the colonel’s daughter, in love with her cousin,
Major Touchwood. Her father wants her to marry Colonel Clifford,
but the colonel has fixed his heart on Clarissa, the major’s sister.
Major Touchwood, nephew of Colonel Touchwood, and in love with
his cousin, Sophia, the colonel’s daughter. He fancies that Colonel
Clifford is his rival, but Clifford is in love with Clarissa, the major’s
sister. This error forms the plot of the farce, and the mistakes which
arise when the major dresses up to pass himself off for his uncle
constitute its fun and entanglement.
Clarissa Touchwood, the major’s sister, in love with Colonel
Clifford. They first met at Brighton, and the colonel thought her
Christian name was Sophia; hence the major looked on him as a
rival.--T. Dibdin, What Next?
 Touchwood (Lord), uncle of Melle´font (2 syl.).
Lady Touchwood, his wife, sister of Sir Paul Pliant. She entertains
a criminal passion for her nephew, Mellefont, and, because he repels
her advances, vows to ruin him. Accordingly, she tells her husband
that the young man has sought to dishonor her, and when his
lordship fancies that the statement of his wife must be greatly
overstated, he finds Mellefont with Lady Touchwood in her own
private chamber. This seems to corroborate the accusation laid to his
charge, but it was an artful trick of Maskwell’s to make mischief, and
in a short time a conversation which he overhears between Lady
Touchwood and Maskwell reveals the whole infamous scheme most
fully to the husband.--Congreve, The Double Dealer (1700).
(Lord and Lady Touchwood must not be mistaken for Sir George
and Lady Frances Touchwood, who are very different characters.)
Their Wildairs, Sir John Brutes, Lady Touchwoods and Mrs Frails, are
conventional reproductions of those wild gallants and demireps which figure in the
licentious dramas of Dryden and Shadwell.--Sir W. Scott, The Drama.

⁂ “Wildair,” in The Constant Couple, by Farquhar; “Brute,” in The

Provoked Wife, by Van Brugh; “Mrs. Frail,” in Love for Love, by
Congreve.

Touchwood (Sir George), the loving husband of Lady Frances,

desperately jealous of her, and wishing to keep her out of all society,
that she may not lose her native simplicity and purity of mind. Sir
George is a true gentleman of most honorable feelings.
Lady Frances Touchwood, the sweet, innocent wife of Sir George
Touchwood. Before her marriage she was brought up in seclusion in
the country, and Sir George tries to keep her fresh and pure in
London.--Mrs. Cowley, The Belle’s Stratagem (1780).

Touchwood (Peregrine), a touchy old East Indian, a relation of the

Mowbray family.--Sir W. Scott, St. Ronan’s Well (time, George III.).

Tough (Mr.), an old barrister.--Sir W. Scott, Redgauntlet (time,

George III.).
 Touran. The death of the children of Touran forms one of the
three tragic stories of the ancient Irish. The other two are The Death
of the Children of Lir and The Death of the Children of Usnach.

Tournemine (3 syl.), a Jesuit of the eighteenth century, fond of

the marvellous. “Il aimait le merveilleux et ne renonçait qu’avec
peine à y croire.”

Il ressemble à Tournemine,
Il croit ce qu’il imagine.
French Proverb.

Touthope (Mr.), a Scotch attorney and clerk of the peace.--Sir W.

Scott, Rob Roy (time, George I.).
She ordered the fellow to be drawn through a horse-pond, and then to be well
rubbed down with an oaken towel.--The Adventure of My Aunt.

Tower of Hunger (The), Gualandi, the tower in which Ugolino

with his two sons and two grandsons were starved to death in
1288.--Dantê, Inferno (1300).

Tower of London (The), was really built by Gundulphus, bishop

of Rochester, in the reign of William I., but tradition ascribes it to
Julius Cæsar.

Ye towers of Julius, London’s lasting shame.

Gray, The Bard (1757).

Tower of Vathek, built with the intention of reaching heaven,

that Vathek might pry into the secrets seen by Mahomet. The
staircase contained 11,000 stairs, and when the top was gained,
men looked no bigger than pismires, and cities seemed mere bee-
hives.--Beckford, Vathek (1784).

Townley Mysteries, certain religious dramas; so called, because

the MS. containing them belonged to P. Townley. These dramas are
supposed to have been acted at Widkirk Abbey, in Yorkshire. In
1831, they were printed for the Surtees Society under the editorship
of the Rev. Joseph Hunter, and J. Stevenson. (See Coventry
Mysteries.)

Townley (Colonel), attached to Berinthia, a handsome young

widow, but in order to win her he determines to excite her jealousy,
and therefore pretends love to Amanda, her cousin. Amanda,
however, repels his attentions with disdain; and the colonel, seeing
his folly, attaches himself to Berinthia.--Sheridan, A Trip to
Scarborough (1777).

Townley (Lord) a nobleman of generous mind and high principle,

liberal and manly. Though very fond of his wife, he insists on a
separation because she is so extravagant and self-willed. Lady
Townly sees at length the folly of her ways, and promises
amendment, whereupon the husband relents and receives her into
favor again.
Lady Townly, the gay, but not unfaithful young wife of Lord
Townley, who thinks that the pleasure of life consists in gambling;
she “cares nothing for her husband,” but “loves almost everything he
hates.” She says:
I dote upon assemblies; my heart bounds at a ball; and at an opera, I expire.
Then I love play to distraction; cards enchant me; and dice put me out of my little
wits.--Vanbrugh and Cibber, The Provoked Husband, iii. 1 (1728).

(Mrs. Pritchard, Margaret Woffington, Miss Brunton, Miss M. Tree,

and Miss E. Tree, were all excellent in this favorite part.)

Tox (Miss Lucretia), the bosom friend of Mr. Dombey’s married

sister (Mrs. Chick). Miss Lucretia was a faded lady, “as if she had not
been made in fast colors,” and was washed out. She “ambled
through life without any opinions, and never abandoned herself to
unavailing regrets.” She greatly admired Mr. Dombey, and
entertained a forlorn hope that she might be selected by him to
supply the place of his deceased wife. Miss Tox lived in Princess’s
Place, and maintained a weak flirtation with a Major Bagstock, who
was very jealous of Mr. Dombey.--C. Dickens, Dombey and Son
(1846).

Tozer, one of the ten young gentlemen in the school of Dr.

Blimber, when Paul Dombey was there. A very solemn lad, whose
“shirt-collar curled up the lobes of his ears.”--C. Dickens, Dombey
and Son (1846).

Trabb, a prosperous old bachelor, a tailor by trade.

He was having his breakfast in the parlor behind the shop.... He had sliced his
hot roll into three feather-beds, and was slipping butter in between the blankets....
He was a prosperous old bachelor, and his open window looked into a prosperous
little garden and orchard, and there was a prosperous iron safe let into the wall at
the side of the fireplace, and without doubt, heaps of his prosperity were put away
in it in bags.--Dickens, Great Expectations (1860).

Traddles, a simple, honest young man, who believes in

everybody and everything. Though constantly failing, he is never
depressed by his want of success. He had the habit of brushing his
hair up on end, which gave him a look of surprise.
At the Creakle’s school, when I was miserable, he [Traddles] would lay his head
on the desk for a little while, and then, cheering up, would draw skeletons all over
his slate.--C. Dickens, David Copperfield, vii.(1849).

Trade´love (Mr.), a broker on ’Change, one of the four guardians

of Anne Lovely, the heiress. He was “a fellow that would out-lie the
devil, for the advantage of stock, and cheat his own father in a
bargain. He was a great stickler for trade, and hated every one that
wore a sword” (act. i. 1). Colonel Feignwell passed himself off as a
Dutch merchant named Jan van Timtamtirelereletta herr van
Feignwell, and made a bet with Tradelove. Tradelove lost, and
cancelled the debt by giving his consent to the marriage of his ward
to the supposed Dutchman.--Mrs. Centlivre, A Bold Stroke for a Wife
(1717).
 Tragedy (Father of Greek), Thespis, a traditional actor of Athens.
Æschylos is also called “The Father of Greek Tragedy” (B.C. 525-426).

Tragedy of Gorboduc, otherwise entitled the Tragedy of Ferrex

and Porrex, the earliest English tragedy, was the joint production of
Thomas Sackville, afterwards Lord Buckhurst, and earl of Dorset,
and Thomas Norton, a Puritan clergyman. It was produced before
Queen Elizabeth, at Whitehall, January 18, 1562. Sackville was
already known as the most important of the writers who produced
“The Mirror for Magistrates,” a collection of narratives of various
remarkable English historical personages, which was first published
in 1559. Norton had been associated with Sternhold and Hopkins in
their metrical version of the Psalms. On the title-page of the first
edition of Gorboduc, published in 1565, without the consent of the
authors, it is stated that the first three acts were written by Norton
and the last two by Sackville, but Charles Lamb expresses himself
“willing to believe that Lord Buckhurst supplied the more vital parts.”

Trainband, the volunteer artillery, whose ground for practice was

in Moorfields.
 A trainband captain eke was he,
Of famous London town.
Cowper, John Gilpin (1782).

Trajan (The Second), Marcus Aurelius Claudius, surnamed

Gothĭcus, noted for his valor, justice, and goodness (215, 268-270).

Trajan and St. Gregory. It is said that Trajan, although

unbaptized, was delivered from hell in answer to the prayers of St.
Gregory.

There was storied on the rock

The exalted glory of the Roman prince,
Whose mighty worth moved Gregory to earn.
His mighty conquest--Trajan, the emperor.
Dantê, Purgatory, xi. (1308).

Trajan and the Importunate Widow. One day a mother

appeared before the Emperor Trajan, and cried, “Grant vengeance,
sire! My son is murdered.” The emperor replied, “I cannot stop now;
wait till I return.” “But, sire,” pleaded the widow, “if you do not
return, who will grant me justice?” “My successor,” said Trajan. “And
can Trajan leave to another the duty that he himself is appointed to
perform?” On hearing this the emperor stopped his cavalcade, heard
the woman’s cause, and granted her suit. Dantê tells this tale in his
Purgatory, xi.--John of Salisbury, Polycraticos de Curialium Nugis, v. 8
(twelfth century).
Dion Cassius (Roman Historia, lxix.) tells the same story of
Hadrian. When a woman appeared before him with a suit as he was
starting on a journey, the emperor put her off, saying, “I have no
leisure now.” She replied, “If Hadrian has no leisure to perform his
duties, let him cease to reign!” On hearing this reproof he
dismounted from his horse and gave ear to the woman’s cause.
A woman once made her appeal to Philip of Macedon, who, being
busy at the time, petulantly exclaimed, “Woman, I have no time now
for such matters.” “If Philip has no time to render justice,” said the
woman, “then it is high time for Philip to resign!” The king felt the
rebuke, heard the cause patiently, and decided it justly.

Tramecksan and Slamecksan, the High-heels and Low-heels,

two great political factions of Lilliput. The animosity of these Guelphs
and Ghibellines of punydom ran so high “that no High-heel would
eat or drink with a Low-heel, and no Low-heel would salute or speak
to a High-heel.” The king of Lilliput was a High-heel, but the heir-
apparent a Low-heel.--Swift, Gulliver’s Travels (“Voyage to Lilliput.”
iv., 1726).

Tramp (Gaffer), a peasant at the execution of old Meg

Mudochson.--Sir W. Scott, Heart of Midlothian (time, George II.).

Tramtrist (Sir), the name assumed by Sir Tristram, when he went

to Ireland to be cured of his wounds after his combat with Sir
Marhaus. Here La Belle Isold (or Isold “the Fair”) was his leech, and
the young knight fell in love with her. When the queen discovered
that Sir Tramtrist was Sir Tristram, who had killed her brother, Sir
Marhaus, in combat, she plotted to take his life, and he was obliged
to leave the island. La Belle Isold subsequently married King Mark of
Cornwall, but her heart was ever fixed on her brave young patient.--
Sir T. Malory, History of Prince Arthur, ii. 9-12 (1470).

Tranchera, Agricane’s sword which afterwards belonged to

Brandimart.--Ariosto, Orlando Furioso (1516).

Tra´nio, one of the servants of Lucentio, the gentleman who

marries Bianca (the sister of Kathari´na, “the Paduan shrew”).--
Shakespeare, Taming of the Shrew (1594).

Transfer, a usurer, who is willing to advance Sir George Wealthy

a sum of money on these easy terms: (1) 5 per cent. interest; (2) 10
per cent. premium; (3) 5 per cent. for insuring the young man’s life;
(4) a handsome present to himself as broker; (5) the borrower to
pay all expenses; and (6) the loan not to be in cash but goods,
which are to be taken at a valuation and sold at auction at the
borrower’s sole hazard. These terms are accepted, and Sir George
promises besides a handsome douceur to Loader for having found a
usurer so promptly.--Foote, The Minor (1760).

Transformations. In the art of transformation, one of the most

important things was a ready wit to adopt in an instant some form
which would give you an advantage over your adversary; thus, if
your adversary appeared as a mouse, you must change into an owl,
then your adversary would become an arrow to shoot the owl, and
you would assume the form of fire to burn the arrow, whereupon
your adversary would become water to quench the fire; and he who
could outwit the other would come off victorious. The two best
examples I know of this sort of contest are to be found, one in the
Arabian Nights, and the other in the Mabinogion.
The former is the contest between the Queen of Beauty and the
son of the daughter of Eblis. He appeared as a scorpion, she in a
moment became a serpent; whereupon he changed into an eagle,
she into a more powerful black eagle; he became a cat, she a wolf;
she instantly changed into a worm and crept into a pomegranite,
which in time burst, whereupon he assumed the form of a cock to
devour the seed, but it became a fish; the cock then became a pike,
but the princess became a blazing fire, and consumed her adversary
before he had time to change.--“The Second Calendar.”
The other is the contest between Caridwen and Gwion Bach. Bach
fled as a hare, she changed into a greyhound; whereupon he
became a fish, she an otter-bitch, he instantly became a bird, she a
hawk; but he became as quick as thought a grain of wheat.
Caridwen now became a hen, and made for the wheat-corn and
devoured him.--“Taliesin.”

Translator-General. Philemon Holland is so called by Fuller, in

his Worthies of England. Holland translated Livy, Pliny, Plutarch,
Suetonius, Xenophon, and several other classic authors (1551-1636).
 Transome (Harold), takes a leading part in George Eliot’s novel
Felix Holt.
Transome (Mrs). Mother of Harold.

Trapbois (Old), a miser in Alsatia. Even in his extreme age, “he

was believed to understand the plucking of a ‘pigeon’ better than
any man in Alsatia.”
Martha Trapbois, the miser’s daughter, a cold, decisive, masculine
woman, who marries Richie Moniplies.--Sir W. Scott, The Fortunes of
Nigel (time, James I.).

Trapper (The). One of the titles of Natty Bumpo, a character

introduced into several of Cooper’s novels. In The Pioneers, he bears
his own name, in others he is “The Trapper,” “The Deerslayer,” “The
Pathfinder,” “The Hawk-eye” and “Leatherstocking.”

Traveller (The). The scheme of this poem is very simple: The

poet supposes himself seated among Alpine solitudes, looking down
upon a hundred kingdoms. He would fain find some spot where
happiness can be attained, but the natives of each realm think their
own the best; yet the amount of happiness in each is pretty well
equal. To illustrate this, the poet describes the manners and
government of Italy, Switzerland, France, Holland, and England.--O.
Goldsmith (1764).

Traveller (Mr.), the stranger who tried to reason with Mr. Mopes
and bring him back to society, but found the truth of the tinker’s
remark, “When iron is thoroughly rotten, you cannot botch it.”--C.
Dickens, A Christmas Number (1861).

Travellers’ Tales. Marco Polo says,

“Certain islands lie so far north in the Northern Ocean, that one
going thither actually leaves the pole-star a trifle behind to the
south.”
A Dutch skipper told Master Noxon, the hydrographer of Charles
II., that he had himself sailed two degrees beyond the pole.
 Maundeville says, in Prester John’s country is a sea of sand which
ebbs and flows in great waves without one drop of water. This sea,
says the knight of St. Alban’s, men find full of right good fish of most
delicious eating.
At the time of the discovery of America by Columbus, many
marvellous tales were rife in Spain. It was said that in one part of
the coast of El Nombre de Dios, the natives had such long ears that
one ear served for bed and the other for counterpane. This reminds
one of Gwevyl mab Gwestad, one of whose lips hung down to his
waist, and the other covered his head like a cowl. Another tale was
that one of the crew of Columbus had come across a people who
lived on sweet scents alone, and were killed by foul smells. This
invention was hardly original, inasmuch as both Plutarch and Pliny
tell us of an Indian people who lived on sweet odors, and
Democrĭtos lived for several days on the mere effluvia of hot bread.
Another tale was that the noses of these smell-feeders were so huge
that their heads were all nose. We are also told of one-eyed men; of
men who carried their heads under one of their arms; of others
whose head was in their breast; of others who were conquered, not
by arms, but by their priests holding up before them a little ivory
crucifix--a sort of Christian version of the taking of Jericho by the
blast of the rams’ horns of the Levites in the time of Joshua.

Travels ... in Remote Nations, by “Lemuel Gulliver.” He is first

shipwrecked and cast on the coast of Lilliput, a country of pygmies.
Subsequently he is thrown among the people of Brobdingnag, giants
of tremendous size. In his third expedition he is driven to Lapūta, an
empire of quack pretenders to science and knavish projectors. And
in his fourth voyage he visits the Houyhnhnms [Whin´.n´me], where
horses were the dominant powers.--Dean Swift (1726).

Travers, a retainer of the earl of Northumberland.--Shakespeare,

Henry IV. (1598).

Travers (Sir Edmund), an old bachelor, the guardian and uncle of

Lady Davenant. He is a tedious gossip, fond of meddling, prosy, and
wise in his own conceit. “It is surprising,” he says, “how unwilling
people are to hear my stories. When in parliament I make a speech,
there is nothing but coughing, hemming, and shuffling of feet--no
desire of information.” By his instigation, the match was broken off
between his niece and Captain Dormer, and she was given in
marriage to Lord Davenant, but it turned out that his lordship was
already married, and his wife living.--Cumberland, The Mysterious
Husband (1783).

Travia´ta, an opera, representing the progress of a courtezan.

Music by Verdi, and libretto from La Dame aux Came´lias, a novel by
Alexandre Dumas fils (1856).

Treachery of the Long-Knives (The). Hengist invited the chief

British nobles to a conference at Ambresbury, but arranged that a
Saxon should be seated beside each Briton. At the given signal, each
Saxon was to slay his neighbor with his long knife, and as many as
460 British nobles fell. Eidiol, earl of Gloucester escaped, after killing
seventy (some say 660) of the Saxons.--Welsh Triads.
Stonehenge was erected by Merlin, at the command of Ambrosius, in memory of
the plot of the “Long-Knives.”... He built it on the site of a former circle. It deviates
from older bardic circles, as may be seen by comparing it with Avebury, Stanton-
Drew, Keswick, etc.--Cambrian Biography, art. “Merddin.”

Trecentisti, the Italian writers of the “Trecento” (thirteenth

century). They were Dantê (1265-1321); Petrarch (1304-1374);
Boccaccio (1313-1375), who wrote the Decameron. Among the
famous artists were Giotto, Lorenzo Ghiberti, and Andre Orcagna.
(See Cinquecento, Seicento.)

In Italy he’d ape the Trecentisti.

Byron, Don Juan, iii. 86 (1820).

Tree (The Bleeding). One of the superstitous tales told of the

marquis of Argyll, so hated by the royalists for the part he took in
the execution of Montrose, was this: “That a tree on which thirty-six
of his enemies were hanged was immediately blasted, and when
hewn down, a copious stream of blood ran from it, saturating the
earth, and that blood for several years flowed out from the roots.”--
Laing, History of Scotland, ii. 11 (1800); State Trials, ii. 422.

Tree (The Poet’s), a tree which grows over the tomb of Tan-Sein, a
musician at the court of [Mohammed] Akbar. Whoever chews a leaf
of this tree, will be inspired with a divine melody of voice.--W.
Hunter.
His voice was as sweet as if he had chewed the leaves of that enchanted tree,
which grows over the tomb of the musician, Tan-Sein.--Moore, Lalla Rookh (1817).

Tree (The Singing), a tree, each leaf of which was musical, and all
the leaves joined together in delightful harmony.--Arabian Nights
(“The Story of the Sisters who envied their Younger Sister”).
In the Fairy Tales of the Comtesse D’Aunoy, there is a similar tale
of a tree which bore “the singing apple,” but whoever ate of this fruit
received the inspiration of poetry as well.--“Cherry and Fairstar.”

Tregeagle, the giant of Dosmary Pool, on Bodmin Downs

(Cornwall). When the wintry winds blare over the downs, it is said to
be the giant howling.

Trelawny Ballad (The), is by the Rev. R. S. Hawker, of

Morwenstow.--Notes and Queries, 441 (June, 1876).

Tremor (Sir Luke), a desperate coward, living in India, who made

it a rule never to fight, either in his own house, his neighbor’s house,
or in the street. This prudent desperado is everlastingly snubbing his
wife. (See Trippet.)
Lady Tremor, daughter of a grocer, and grandchild of a wig-maker.
Very sensitive on the subject of her plebeian birth, and wanting to
be thought a lady of high family.--Mrs. Inchbald, Such Things Are
(1786).
 Tremydd ap Tremhidydd, the man with the keenest sight of all
mortals. He could discern “a mote in the sunbeam in any of the four
quarters of the world.” Clustfein ap Clustfeinydd was no less
celebrated for his acuteness of hearing, “his ear being distressed by
the movement of dew, in June, over a blade of grass.” The meaning
of these names is, “Sight, the son of Seer,” and “Ear, the son of
Hearer.”--The Mabinogion (“Notes to Geraint,” etc., twelfth century).

Trenmor, great-grandfather of Fingal, and king of Morven (north-

west of Scotland). His wife was Inibaca, daughter of the king of
Lochlin or Denmark.--Ossian, Fingal, vi.
In Temora, ii. he is called the first king of Ireland, and father of
Conar.

Trent (Fred), the scapegrace brother of little Nell. “He was a

young man of one and twenty, well-made, and certainly handsome,
but dissipated, and insolent in air and bearing.” The mystery of Fred
Trent and little Nell is cleared up in ch. lxix.--C. Dickens, The Old
Curiosity Shop (1840).

Tres (Scriptores): Richardus Corinensis, or Richard of Cirencester

(fourteenth century); Gildus Badonicus; and Nennius Banchorensis;
published by Professor Bertram (1757).

Tresham (Mr.), senior partner of Mr. Osbaldistone, Sr.--Sir W.

Scott, Rob Roy (time, George I.).

Tresham (Richard), same as General Witherington, who first

appears as Matthew Middlemas.
Richard Tresham, the son of General Witherington. He is also
called Richard Middlemas.--Sir W. Scott, The Surgeon’s Daughter
(time, George II.).

Tresham (Thorold, Lord), head of a noble family, whose boast

was, that “no blot had ever stained their ’scutcheon,” though the
family ran back into pre-historic times. He was a young, unmarried
man, with a sister, Mildred, a girl of 14, living with him. His near
neighbor, Henry, earl of Mertoun, asked permission to pay his
addresses to Mildred, and Thorold accepted the proposal with much
pleasure. The old warrener next day told Thorold he had observed
for several weeks that a young man climbed into Mildred’s chamber
at night-time, and he would have spoken before, but did not like to
bring his young mistress into trouble. Thorold wrung from his sister
an acknowledgement of the fact, but she refused to give up the
name, yet said she was quite willing to marry the earl. This Thorold
thought would be dishonorable, and resolved to lie in wait for the
unknown visitor. On his approach, Thorold discovered it was the earl
of Mertoun, and he slew him, then poisoned himself, and Mildred
died of a broken heart.--Robert Browning, A Blot on the ’Scutcheon.

Tressilian (Edmund), the betrothed of Amy Robsart. Amy marries

the earl of Leicester, and is killed by falling into a deep pit, to which
she has been cruelly inveigled.--Sir W. Scott, Kenilworth (time,
Elizabeth).

Tre´visan (Sir), a knight to whom Despair gave a hempen rope,

that he might go and hang himself.--Spenser, Faëry Queen, i. (1590).

Tribulation [Wholesome], a pastor of Amsterdam, who thinks “the

end will sanctify the means,” and uses “the children of perdition” to
promote his own object, which he calls the “work of God.” He is one
of the dupes of Subtle, “the alchemist,” and his factotum, Face.--Ben
Jonson, The Alchemist (1610).

Tribune of the People (The), John Bright (1811-1889).

Tricolor, the national badge of France since 1789. It consists of

the Bourbon white cockade, and the blue and red cockade of the city
of Paris combined. It was Lafayette who devised this symbolical
union of king and people, and when he presented it to the nation,
“Gentlemen,” said he, “I bring you a cockade that shall make a tour
of the world.” (See Stornello Verses.)
 If you will wear a livery, let it at least be that of the city of Paris--blue and red,
my friends.--Dumas, Six Years Afterwards, xv. (1846).

Tricoteuses de Robespierre (Les), Robespierre’s Knitters.

During the sittings of the Convention and at those of the popular
Clubs and the Revolutionary Tribunal, certain women were always
seen knitting. Encouraged by the rabble they carried their insolence
so far that they were called the Furies of the Guillotine. They
disappeared with the Jacobins.--Bouillet, Dict. Universel.

Triermain (The Bridal of), a poem by Sir Walter Scott, in four

cantos, with introduction and conclusion (1813). In the introduction,
Arthur is represented as the person who tells the tale to Lucy, his
bride. Gyneth, a natural daughter of King Arthur and Guendŏlen,
was promised in marriage to the bravest knight in a tournament; but
she suffered so many combatants to fall, without awarding the prize,
that Merlin threw her into an enchanted sleep, from which she was
not to wake till a knight as brave as those who had fallen claimed
her in marriage. After the lapse of 500 years, Sir Roland de Vaux,
baron of Triermain, undertook to break the spell, but had first to
overcome four temptations, viz., fear, avarice, pleasure and
ambition. Having come off more than conqueror, Gyneth awoke and
became his bride.

Trifal´di (The countess), called “The Afflicted Duenna” of the

Princess Antonomasia (heiress to the throne of Candaya). She was
called Trifaldi from her robe, which was divided into three triangles,
each of which was supported by a page. The face of this duenna
was, by the enchantment of the giant, Malambru´no, covered with a
large, rough beard, but when Don Quixote mounted Clavilēno, the
Winged, “the enchantment was dissolved.”
The renowned knight, Don Quixote de la Mancha, hath achieved the adventure
merely by attempting it. Malambruno is appeased, and the chin of the Dolorida
dueña is again beardless.--Cervantes, Don Quixote, II. iii. 4, 5 (1615).
 Trifal´din of the “Bushy Beard” (white as snow), the gigantic
squire of “The Afflicted Duenna,” the Countess Trifaldi.--Cervantes,
Don Quixote, II. iii. 4 (1615).

Trifle (Miss Penelopé), an old maiden sister of Sir Penurious Trifle.

Stiff as a ramrod, prim as fine airs and graces could make her, fond
of long words, and delighting in phrases modelled in true Johnsonian
ponderosity.

Trifle (Miss Sukey), daughter of Sir Penurious, tricked into

marriage with Mr. Hartop, a young spendthrift, who fell in love with
her fortune.
⁂ Sir Penurious Trifle is not introduced, but Hartop assumes his
character, and makes him fond of telling stale and pointless stories.
He addresses Sir Gregory as “you knight.”--Foote, The Knights
(1754).

Trim (Corporal), Uncle Toby’s orderly. Faithful, simple-minded and

most affectionate. Voluble in speech, but most respectful. Half
companion, but never forgetting he is his master’s servant. Trim is
the duplicate of Uncle Toby in delf. The latter at all times shows
himself the officer and the gentleman, born to command and used
to obedience, while the former always carries traces of the drillyard,
and shows that he has been accustomed to receive orders with
deference, and to execute them with military precision. It is a great
compliment to say that the corporal was worthy such a noble
master.--Sterne, The Life and Opinions of Tristram Shandy (1759).

Trimalchi, a celebrated cook in the reign of Nero, mentioned by

Petronius. He had the art of giving to the most common fish the
flavor and appearance of the best. Like Ude, in our own day, he said
that “sauces are the soul of cookery, and cookery the soul of
festivity,” or, as the cat’s-meat man observed, “’tis the seasonin’ as
does it.”

Trin´culo, a jester.--Shakespeare, The Tempest (1609).

 A miscarriage ... would (like the loss of Trinculo’s bottle in the horse-pond) be
attended not only with dishonor but with infinite loss.--Sir W. Scott.

Trin´ket (Lord), a man of fashion and a libertine.

He is just polite enough to be able to be very unmannerly, with a great deal of
good breeding; is just handsome enough to make him excessively vain of his
person; and has just reflection enough to finish him for a coxcomb; qualifications
... very common among ... men of quality.--G. Colman, The Jealous Wife, ii.
(1761).

Tri´nobants, people of Trinoban´tium, that is, Middlesex and

Essex. Their chief town was Trin´ovant, now London.

So eastward where by Thames the Trinobants were set,

To Trinovant their town ... That London now we term ...
The Saxons ... their east kingdom called [Essex].
Drayton, Polyolbion, xvi. (1613).

Trinquet, one of the seven attendants of Fortunio. His gift was

that he could drink a river and be thirsty again. “Are yon always
thirsty?” asked Fortunio. “No,” said the man, “only after eating salt
meat or upon a wager.”--Comtesse D’Aunoy, Fairy Tales (“Fortunio,”
1682).

Trip to Scarborough (A), a comedy by Sheridan (1777), based

on The Relapse, by Vanbrugh (1697). Lord Foppington goes to
Scarborough to marry Miss Hoyden, daughter of Sir Tunbelly Clumsy,
but his lordship is not known personally to the knight and his
daughter. Tom Fashion, younger brother of Lord Foppington, having
been meanly treated by his elder brother, resolves to outwit him; so,
passing himself off as Lord Foppington, he gets introduced to Sir
Tunbelly, and marries Miss Hoyden before the rightful claimant
appears. When at length Lord Foppington arrives he is treated as an
impostor, till Tom Fashion explains the ruse. As his lordship behaves
contumeliously to the knight, matters are easily arranged, Lord
Foppington retires, and Sir Tunbelly accepts Tom Fashion as his son-
in-law with good grace.
 Tripe (1 syl.), the nickname of Mrs. Hamilton, of Covent Garden
Theatre (1730-1788).

Triple Alliance (The).

1. A treaty between Great Britain, Sweden, and the United
Provinces, in 1668, for the purpose of checking the ambition of Louis
XIV.
2. A treaty between George I. of England, Philip, duke of Orleans,
regent of France, and the United Provinces, for the purpose of
counteracting the plans of Alberoni, the Spanish minister, 1717.

Trippet (Beau), who “pawned his honor to Mrs. Trippet never to

draw sword in any cause,” whatever might be the provocation. (See
Tremor.)
Mrs. Trippet, the beau’s wife, who “would dance for four and
twenty hours together,” and play cards for twice that length of time.-
-Garrick, The Lying Valet (1740).

Tripping as an Omen.
When Julius Cæsar landed at Adrumētum, in Africa, he happened
to trip and fall on his face. This would have been considered a fatal
omen by his army, but, with admirable presence of mind, he
exclaimed, “Thus take I possession of thee, O Africa!”
A similar story is told of Scipio. Upon his arrival in Africa, he also
happened to trip, and, observing that his soldiers looked upon this
as a bad omen, he clutched the earth with his two hands, and cried
aloud, “Now, Africa, I hold thee in my grasp!”--Don Quixote, II. iv. 6.
When William the Conqueror leaped on shore at Bulverhythe, he
fell on his face, and a great cry went forth that the omen was
unlucky; but the duke exclaimed, “I take seisin of this land with both
my hands!”
The same story is told of Napoleon in Egypt; of King Olaf, son of
Harald, in Norway; of Junius Brutus, who, returning from the oracle,
fell on the earth, and cried, “’Tis thus I kiss thee, mother Earth!”
When Captain Jean Cœurpreux tripped in dancing at the Tuileries,
Napoleon III. held out his hand to help him up, and said, “Captain,
this is the second time I have seen you fall. The first was by my side
in the field of Magenta.” Then, turning to the lady, he added,
“Madam, Captain Cœurpreux is henceforth commandant of my
Guards, and will never fall in duty or allegiance, I am persuaded.”

Trismegistus (“thrice greatest”), Hermês, the Egyptian

philosopher, or Thoth, councillor of Osīris. He invented the art of
writing in hieroglyphics, harmony, astrology, magic, the lute and lyre,
and many other things.

Tris´sotin, a bel esprit. Philaminte (3 syl.), a femme savante,

wishes him to marry her daughter, Henriette, but Henriette is in love
with Clitandre. The difficulty is soon solved by the announcement
that Henriette’s father is on the verge of bankruptcy, whereupon
Trissotin makes his bow and retires.--Molière, Les Femmes Savantes
(1672).
Trissotin is meant for the Abbé Crotin, who affected to be poet,
gallant and preacher. His dramatic name was “Tricotin.”

Tristram (Sir), son of Sir Meliŏdas, king of Li´onês, and Elizabeth,

his wife (daughter of Sir Mark, king of Cornwall). He was called
Tristram (“sorrowful”) because his mother died in giving him birth.
His father also died when Tristram was a mere lad (pt. ii. 1). He was
knighted by his uncle, Mark (pt. ii. 5), and married Isond le Blanch
Mains, daughter of Howell, king of Britain (Brittany); but he never
loved her, nor would he live with her. His whole love was centered on
his aunt, La Belle Isond, wife of King Mark, and this unhappy
attachment was the cause of numberless troubles, and ultimately of
his death. La Belle Isond, however, was quite as culpable as the
knight, for she herself told him, “My measure of hate for Mark is as
the measure of my love for thee;” and when she found out that her
husband would not allow Sir Tristram to remain at Tintag´il Castle,
she eloped with him, and lived three years at Joyous Guard, near
Carlisle. At length she returned home, and Sir Tristram followed her.
His death is variously related. Thus the History of Prince Arthur says:
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