Oil Components
intelligence behind beauty
FUNCTIONAL OIL COMPONENTS
% UV-TITAN M 170 20% 30% 40% 50%
THE BASIS FOR OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE Dermofeel BGC 1200 10000 80000 800000
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 2200 17000 100000 900000
Oil components are the heart of a cosmetic composition,
strongly influencing the skin feel and performance of the
whole product. They are perceived by the user and will
decide about the first and probably remaining impression
of the product. This is the reason why it is so important for
cosmetic developers to carefully choose the oil components
for the formulation. Many oils with different characteristics are
available and it is crucial to balance the desired skin feel and
the functionality that is to be achieved.
Natural oil components are in the focus of many cosmetic
manufacturers and there are many native oils and solid fatty
materials for cosmetic formulations. These natural oils have the
advantage to occur in the metabolic pathways of every living
cell in our body. When they are absorbed into deeper layers of
the skin, they will be built into biological structures or simply be
digested by the cell’s enzymes. On the other hand native oils
sometimes are susceptible to oxidative deterioration and they Fig. 1: Comparison of viscosity buildup with different concentrations of
often lack certain functionalities to play the role of functional Titanium Dioxide using different oil components.
materials in cosmetic formulations. This is why semi-synthetic
or fully synthetic oil components are often preferred for specific Functionality is among further characteristics for oil
applications. components that are not directly perceived by consumers, but
improve the performance of the composition. Most formulators
Skin feel is certainly a subjective criterion that will influence are well aware of limitations, when dispersing pigments, be
the general product perception by consumers. The tactile it in liquid emulsions or solid formulations. Also here polarity
properties of a cosmetic formulation are commonly mediated and spreadability are decisive factors for the performance
by the employed oil components. Their spreadability is of the cosmetic product. Today with changing regulations
responsible for the subjective sensation of smoothness, on sunscreens, the requirements for the oil components as
permeability or greasiness to the customer. Ideally a mixture of solvents for different kinds of filters are rising.
different basic oil components is employed to create a broad
spreading cascade, giving the best consumer acceptance.
Solvating of Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Within the range, Dr. Straetmans offers a range
of functional oil components with mainly high spreadability 14 Octyl Stearate
which can furnish your product with an elegant sensoric
12 Isopropyl Myristate
profile. Also the viscosity shall be in a range that is accepted
10
Solubility (%)
by the customer. Therefore the strong increase of viscosity Isostearyl Benzoate
and poor spreadability of products with high pigment load 8 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoa
are bothersome for the development of sunscreens. In these 6
C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoa
occasions it may be helpful to use oil components that can 4
Dermofeel BGC
carry a high pigment load, as it is required for compositions 14 2 Octyl Stearate
with high SPF. On the other hand the resulting viscosity shall 12 0 Isopropyl Myristate
not increase to a level that will have a negative impact on the 10
% Isostearyl Benzoate
convenience of the product. For sun protection 14 8 Octyl Stearate PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
BGC (Butylene Glycol Dicaprate/Dicaprylate) is one12of the 6 Isopropyl Myristate C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate
most widely used oils and an ideal candidate. A newly 10 4
Isostearyl Benzoate Dermofeel BGC
2
developed natural oil component with silicon-like sensorial
8 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
0
properties is sensolv (Isoamyl Laurate).6It is Fig. 2: As one C12-C15
of the % Alkyl
most Benzoate
common oil components for sunscreens,
produced from 100% regrowing plant material and is4 a very Dermofeel BGC shows optimum
Dermofeel BGC performance in solvating UV-filters.
2
competitive option for all kinds of high quality skin care0
and
suncare products and colour cosmetics. % Within the range we offer specialized functional
oil components with excellent solvating power for the most
commonly used UV-filters combined with an elegant, non-
greasy skin feeling. And that explains why our
BGC is an indispensable oil component in some of the largest
sunscreen products worldwide.
drstraetmans · intelligence behind beauty
Cosmetic functions like deodorant activity can
Solubility of UV-Filters in different solvents at 20°C also be part of the ingredient’s profile. TEC eco
(Triethyl Citrate) is a natural liquid often used as solvent with
30 Dermofeel® BGC
excellent deodorant activity. The mechanism of action involves
Dermofeel® TC-7
25
C12-15 Alkyl
a competitive action at bacterial enzymes and therefore
Finnsolv TN Benzoate
hinders the production of malodorous compounds on human
20
skin. The effect is used in many deodorant concepts and
% m/m
15 best combined with an antimicrobial deodorant active like
GMC.
10
0
And, naturally, we also offer highly polar oil components
Ethyl Hexyl Triazone Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
with excellent dispersing properties for a large variety of
Uvinul T 150 Parsol 1789 pigments, produced from vegetable building blocks. Our
MCT, TC-7 and
Fig. 3: Dermofeel BGC and Dermofeel TC 7 show better solubility for sensolv are the natural alternative, when high performance
important sunscreen pigments than standard oil components like dispersing power is wanted for naturally oriented product
C 12-15 Alkyl Benzoate.
concepts. These raw materials are in full accordance with
natural cosmetic standards, produced using 100% renewable
resources, fully biologically degradable and ECOCERT
registered.
Our Oil Components INCI Properties
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate /
BGC Highly spreading oil component
Dicaprate
Highly spreading oil component
TC-7 Triheptanoin
of natural origin
Highly spreading oil component
MCT Tricaprylin
of natural origin
Highly spreading natural oil with
sensolv Isoamyl Laurate silicon like skin feel for skin care,
sun care and colour cosmetics.
Polar oily solvent with deodorant
TEC eco Triethyl Citrate activity for certified natural
cosmetics.
drstraetmans · intelligence behind beauty
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Comercial Quimica Jover, S.L. Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH
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www.cqjover.com
Merkurring 60–62 · D-22143 Hamburg
Sweden/Finland Phone: +49 40-66 93 56 0 · Fax: +49 40-66 93 56 310
Bionord AB email: info@dr-straetmans.de · www.dr-straetmans.de
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Rahn AG
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