Cosmetics

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 Introduction
 Cosmetics: are substances used to enhance or protect the
appearance or odor of the human body.

 Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions, powders,

perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toenail polishes, eye and
facial makeup, hair colors, hair sprays and gels, deodorants,
baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters and
many other types of products.

 Their use is widespread, especially among women

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 Introduction…

• FDCA define cosmetics as : “1) articles intended to be rubbed,

poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or
otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering
the appearance and 2) articles intended for use as a
component of any such articles”.

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• The following drugs can be promoted on Massmedia,
Newspapers, and billboards.
a) By Electronic and Print Media-TV, Radio, Newspaper
• Oral contraceptives
• ORS
• Condoms
• Vitamins,
• food additives
• Analgesics, Anthilemntics,
• Medical Equipments
• Medical supplies including self test for pregnancy and Hypertension but
not self test for HIV
• Medicated & Non medicated Cosmetics
 Sanitary and Beutifying agents eg. Tooth paste, diapers, Modes,
 Industrial & Household Insecticides, pesticides
 Disinfectants
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b) By Billboards
• Condoms
• Oral contraceptives(one month)
• Sanitary and beautifying agents eg. Tooth paste, diapers, Modes,
• Vitamins
• Cosmetics
• Sanitary and Beutifying agents eg. Tooth paste, diapers, Modes,

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Formulation and common ingredients of cosmetics

 The target substance in cosmetic products may not be easily

applied on the human body
 may be dissolved into or

 mixed with different kinds of chemical additives

 Excipients may be used to bulk up cosmetical formulations

with very potent target substances, to allow for convenient
and accurate dosage

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 Formulation and common ingredients…

Fillers/Diluents/vehicle

 Fillers fill out the amount of the product, making it practical to

produce and convenient for the consumer to use

 Provide proper volume for consumer handling

 a varied group of oily or water soluble polymers

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 Formulation and common ingredients…

Color additives

 added to improve appearance of a formulation

 vital to any product that is intended to alter the color of any

part of the body

 Color materials mixed in with cosmetics can be broadly

classified into organic synthetic coloring agents , natural
colors, inorganic pigments and polymer powders.

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 Formulation and common ingredients…
Lubricants
 prevent ingredients from clumping together and from sticking
the processing machines
An antioxidant
 preventing the oxidation of other additives
 Oxidation reactions can produce free radicals, which start chain
reactions
 Antioxidants terminate these chain reactions by removing free
radical intermediates and inhibit other oxidation reactions by
being oxidized themselves
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eg. thiols or polyphenols. 9
Formulation and common ingredients…

Fragrances

 Give the product a fresh, pleasing odor and cover up the smell
of other ingredients

 Fragrances in skin-care products are the most likely cause of

skin irritations or contact allergies

eg cinnamic alcohol, hydroxycitronella and isoeugenol

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 Formulation and common ingredients…
Preservatives
 Any product that includes water and oil must contain one or more
preservatives

 may cause skin reactions

 eg diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, quaternium 15, and the

parabens.

An emulsifier

 a type of surfactant typically used to keep emulsion well

dispersed.

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 Formulation and common ingredients…
Humectants

 Maintaining a young-looking is closely connected with moisture

content

 Humectants are water soluble materials with high water absorption

and they are a very important component in the aqueous phase of
cosmetics

 They absorb water from the air and hold the moisture in the skin
 useful in softening thickened or scaly skin

 Humectants need very high humidity levels to be effective

eg polyhydric alcohols like, glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol

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main components of NMF , propylidonecarboxylate and lactates
 Formulation and common ingredients…

Emollients

 These ingredients fill in the spaces between the cells in the skin

 thus soothing and lubricating rough skin

eg butyl stearate, glycerin, lanolin, mineral oil, petrolatum

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Classification of cosmetics
1. Depending up on the physical form cosmetics can be classified as
 Emulsions eg: cold cream; vanishing cream

 Powders eg: face powder: talcum powder, tooth powder.

 Sticks eg: Lipsticks, deodorant sticks

 Oils eg: hair oils.

 Jellies eg: hair jelly, hand jelly

 Paste eg: Tooth past, deodorant paste

 Solution eg: After shave solution

 Aerosols eg: After shave spray, hair sets, perfumes

 Suspensions: eg cosmetics stockings

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Classification of cosmetics…
2. Can be classified based on widely used body parts as:
 Hair cosmetics

 Face cosmetics
 Eye make ups
 Lip decorators and carers
 Nail cosmetics
 Skin cosmetics
 Oral cosmetics

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 Hair cosmetics
Shampoos

 are based on soap or synthetic detergents

 used to cleanse, and leave the hair lustrous

 There are a great variety of shampoos which have value in the

form of conditioning, luster enhancing and styling capabilities

Ingredients used In shampoo include

 Opacifiers: used to make the shampoo opaque

 Glycol and glyceryl stearate , cetyl and stearyl alcohol and stearic amides

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 Hair cosmetics…

 Solublizing agent: used to solubilize poorly soluble substances so

as to get a clear shampoo
 Ethyl alcohol, glycerol, propylene glycol

 Thickening agents: increase the viscosty of the shampoo and

provide the desired consistence for the preparation
 Sodium stearate, sodium alginate and methyl cellulose

 Conditioning agents: used to improve the the manageabilty and

texture of the hair
 Lanolin and its derivative

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Preservatives 17
 Hair cosmetics…
Ideal Properties of a shampoo
 Should be non-toxic, non-irritant and should not damage the skin and sensitive
organs like eyes if accidentally dropped to the eye

 Must have an appropriate cleansing ability

 Must produce adequate foam in soft and hard water

 Must protect the hair from friction damage during washing

 Hair must have a natural luster and an appropriate softness

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 Hair cosmetics…
Hair conditioners

 the primary purpose of a hair conditioner is to reduce the

magnitude of the forces associated with combing or brushing
of the hair, especially when wet
 accomplished by the deposition of conditioning agents that lubricate
the hair fiber, diminishing surface friction and, therefore, combing
forces

 deposition of a conditioning agent also causes the hair to feel softer

and more moisturized

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 Hair cosmetics…
 Another secondary benefit is the reduction or prevention of
flyaway hair, especially by cationic conditioners
 Besides making the hair more manageable, increasing the ease of
combing also improves the ability to align the hair fibers in a more
parallel configuration, which can result in an increase in hair shine,

even if the shine of the individual fibers is not increased.

 Some ingredients can also form a film on the hair surface that
provides color retention benefits for color-treated hair

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 Hair cosmetics…
Hair-coloring dyes (tint)

 To give a younger appearance by making gray hairs less prominent

 To make hair more stylish by actively varying the color of the hair

 Classified on the basis of their degree of durability in to

 Temporary hair colors, semi-permanent hair colors and permanent hair colors

 The mechanism by which they color the hair is different from each other

 include dye containing creams, shampoos or conditioners prepared

by using substance obtained from plants, metallic compounds and a
mixture of these two types of substances.

 most commonly used organic material from plant origin is ‘Henna’

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 Hair cosmetics…

Characteristics of a hair dye

 Should be non-irritating to the hair and skin

 It should be non-toxic

 It should be able to color the hair shaft without damaging it

 It should be stable and should not change its colour when

exposed to air, sunlight, water, shampoo, or hair conditioning
agent

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 Hair cosmetics…
Hair growth promotor

 Are preparations made by adding various pharmaceutical

agents to an alcohol-water solution

 Is applied to the scalp to normalize its functions

 Help to prevent dandruff and itchiness

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 Hair cosmetics…

 Minoxidil promotes a growth of fine hair any place on the

skin where there are hair follicles.
 sold under the trade name Rogaine

Before Minox After Minox

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 Hair cosmetics…
Hair removers (depilatory)

 Used to remove unwanted hair from the body.

 When the hair is removed by chemical method it is known as

depilation.

 When the hair is removed by plucking, electrolysis or x-ray it

is known as Epilation

 Are available as solid, semisolids (as cream form)

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Hair removal
 Hair cosmetics…
 The chemicals used for preparation of depilatories
o Metallic sulphide of barium, calcium and strontium, calcium thioglycerol
and calcium thioglycollate

Good depilatory should

o complete its action within 2-5 minutes and during this period it should
make the hair soft, swelled and dispersed which should be removed from
the skin wipping or rinsing
o be non-toxic and non-irritant to the skin
o be easy to apply
o be economical to use
o elegant, odorless or pleasantly flavoured
o remain stable in the container
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 Face cosmetics

Face powder

 is a cosmetic powder applied to the face to set foundation

 can also be reapplied throughout the day to minimize

shininess caused by oily skin

 The ingredients used in formulation of face

powder includes talc, kaoline, calcium carbonate,

magnesium carbonate, zinc stearate, magnesium

stearate, calcium carbonate, color and perfume.

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 Face cosmetics…

A concealer or colour corrector

 is a type of makeup used to cover pimples, dark circles and other small
blemishes visible on the skin.

 mainly used by women but also by some men

Rouge (Blush)
 Is a cosmetic typically used by women

to redden the cheeks to provide a more

youthful appearance, and to emphasis

the cheekbones

 The form of rouges are compact, liquid, cream and stick

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 Face cosmetics…

Foundation

 skin colored cosmetics which give uniform color the face

and conceal flaws ( defect) to produce an impression of
health and youth.

 Usually a liquid, cream, powder.

 Found powder compact form, oil-based foundations and

emulsion foundations (O/W or W/O)

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 Face cosmetics…
Cold cream

 Cosmetic preparation which applied to smooth face and remove

makeup

 derives from the cooling feeling that the cream leaves on the skin

 Prepared by emulsification oils and water (W/O)

E.g Beeswax-borax cream

Vanishing cream

 Are O/W emulsions which are prepared by emulsification of stearic

acid and water

 seem to disappear when applied on skin

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 Eye make ups…
Eye liner

 is a cosmetic used to define the eyes.

 applied around the contours of the eye

 To create a variety of aesthetic appearance.

Eye shadow

 Is applied to eyelids and corners of the eyes to

create shadow and produce a sense of relief

in order to emphasize the beauty of the eyes

 Has a greater variety of color than any other eye makeup

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 Eye make ups…

The following are the quality requirements for eye shadows

 They should be easy to apply smoothly and have good skin

adhesion

 They should have no oily luster when applied

 There should be no change in color

 They should not be spoiled by sweat or sebum and maintain a

good appearance

 They should be highly safe as they used around the eyes

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 Eye make ups…
Mascara
 is a cosmetic used to darken, thicken and
define eyelashes.
 found in different forms

 The general purpose of mascara is to emphasise, thicken, lengthen,

and define lashes.
 Mascara is available with tube and wand applicators.
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 Eye make ups…

Eye wrinkle care products

 the skin around the eyes becomes dry easily than on any
other part of the face.

 If the skin left in dry conditions this will cause wrinkles.

 This is prevented by eye wrinkle care products which have a

humectant effect.

 They are different types

 Oil-based (stick type) and emulsion types (creams or milky lotions)

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 Eye make ups…
Eyebrow cosmetics

 Are used after adjusting the form of the eyebrows with razors or
scissors or by plucking out hairs to draw in the desired form, to
make darker in color or brighter

 The most common are the easy-to-use pencil and mechanical pencil
types but there are also powder compact and liquid types.

Eye makeup remover

 To remove the different types of makeup

 The main types are for removing water and oil-based makeup
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 Lip decorators and carers

Lip gloss
 is a cosmetic product used primarily
to give the lips shine and sometimes subtle color.
 is distributed as a liquid or a soft solid.
 can be completely clear, translucent, or various
shades of opacity
Lip balm
 is a lip cosmetic product which generally
has medicinal purposes
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 Lip decorators and carers…

Lipstick (Lippy)

 is a cosmetic product containing pigments, oils, waxes, and

emollients that applies color and texture to the lips.

 Consists mainly of an oily base material and coloring

agents

 Oil base material contain

 Waxes which are solid at ordinary T are used to provide the stick
form of lipsticks

 Natural waxes such as carnauba wax, beeswax candelilla wax

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 Lip decorators and carers…
Quality of good lipstick. It should
o be non-toxic and non-irritanting

o be free from gritty particles

o be easly applicable and easly removable if need arises

o be good odour

o give shine and smooth appearance

o be not dry on storage

o maintain its lip colour long after application

o not break during use and it should maintain its firmness till whole of it is used
up

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 Nail cosmetics

Nail polish

 nail varnish or nail lacquers or nail enamels

 is a lacquer that is applied to the nails of both the fingers

and toes, usually cosmetically,

 The act of simply polishing the nails without applying a

chemical layer afterwards is called nail buffing

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 Nail cosmetics…
 nail polishes have an aesthetic advantage: they offer more
refinement and elegance and allow for a wide range of
personal preferences.

 the nail varnish plays a protective role: it forms a film on the

nail surface, which is both tough and flexible, increasing the
resistance of the nail to microtraumatisms.

 It also maintains a more constant degree of nail hydration.

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 Nail cosmetics…
 The main constituent of the film that remains on the nail after
drying (evaporation) is nitrocellulose.

 The film former has a lot of qualities

 hard, tough, stable, and waterproof,

 but it is neither sufficiently adherent nor glossy or flexible.

 To improve adherence and gloss, film modifiers are added

 The most common one is Santolite 1 or toluene
sulfonamide/formaldehyde resin (TSFR).

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 Nail cosmetics…
 With the nitrocellulose and the film modifier, the resulting
film is hard, tough, adherent, and glossy. Unfortunately, it is
still not flexible enough and cracks.

 Plasticizers are added to increase flexibility.

o These are molecules with a high boiling point, which remain in the film
after drying.

 They reportedly increase separation between the cellulose

links as well as increasing the rate of solvent evaporation
o Eg. castor oil, glyceryl tribenzoate, acetyl tributyl citrate, glycerol,
citrate esters, triacetin.
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 Nail cosmetics…
The perfect nail polish
o has to be easy to apply, and it should dry quickly

o should leave a shiny, smooth, even, hard, and flexible film that is able to
last five days

o should be removed without leaving any trace and should not have any side
effects

o should be stable in the bottle

o should offer a wide range of colors, enabling one to get the expected
aesthetic effect

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 Nail cosmetics…
Unwanted Effects of Nail Polishes

 The nail polishes can cause an orange staining of the nail plate

 Nail lacquers can cause keratin granulation

 Nail varnishes can also cause allergic contact dermatitis, more

rarely, contact urticaria

Keratin granulation
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orange staining of the nail plate 44
 Nail cosmetics…
Nail Polish Remover

 dissolve nitrocellulose and remove lipids from the nail plate.

 They mainly contain a mixture of organic solvents, with small

amounts of oils added to counteract the drying effect of the
solvents.

Typical formula

Solvents (98%)—Example: acetone, butyl or ethyl acetate,

ethoxyethanol.

Lipids (2%)—Example: castor oil, lanolin oil.

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 Nail cosmetics…

 Other additives can also be found such as dyes, fragrances,

preservatives, vitamins, and UV absorbers.

 should not be used more than once a week and should not be
left too long in contact with the nails and the skin

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 Skin cosmetics
 Cosmetics are applied to the dead cells of the corneal layer.

The basic function of skin cosmetics

o Anti-drying, cleansing, ultraviolet damage prevention, anti-

oxidation and invigoration

o Clean up skin problems

o Whitening effect to combat skin aging associated troubles

o Prevent wrinkles, sagging skin and acne

o To mask body odor

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 Skin cosmetics

Moisturizers (emollients)

 hold moisture in the skin.

 work best when applied while the skin is still wet from a bath
or shower.

 don’t actually add moisture to skin.

 form a physical barrier that hinders evaporation of water from

the skin.

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 Skin cosmetics…
Anti-aging cream

 moisturiser based skin care products marketed with

the promise of making the consumer look younger by
reducing visible wrinkles, expression lines, blemishes,
pigmentation changes, discolourations of the skin.

 A decrease in wrinkle depth of 10% is typical.

 In Conventional moisturising ingredients anti-aging
creams usually contain anti-aging ingredients
 Retinol, Epidermal Growth Factor, Alpha hydroxy acids
(AHAs), Antioxidant

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 Skin cosmetics…

Depilatories
 are sulfides of calcium and barium
 have the property of removing hair from the skin

Bronzers
 are cosmetic product that darken skin color
 They are found in the form of creams, powders,
sprays, gels, and lotions .

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 Skin cosmetics…
Antiperspirants and deodorants
 The major components of body odor are products decomposed
from a mixture of a sweat and lipid broken down by the normal
bacterial flora of the skin.
 One group of unpleasant smelling breakdown product is the
lower FAs
 Cosmetics for preventing body odor contain antiperspirant
perfumes and antibacterial agents
 The principal antibacterial agents are benzaalkonium chloride,
benzethonium chloride, chlorhexidine chloride, etc
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 Skin cosmetics…
Antiperspirants

 are topically applied products designed to reduce

underarm wetness by limiting eccrine sweat production
 Suppress production of perspiration due to their strong
astringent action on the skin
 Active Ingredients for Antiperspirants:
 Zirconium and aluminum chlorides, aluminium hydrochloride, potassium
aluminum sulfate, zinc oxide and zinc paraphenol sulfonate
 Aluminum hydrochloride is used most often

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 Skin cosmetics…
Application forms for antiperspirant actives

 Typical application forms for antiperspirants are sticks, roll-

ons, creams, pump sprays, aerosols, gels, and powders

 The three most important product forms are sticks, roll-ons,

and aerosols

 Roll-on application form applied to the underarms with a

rolling applicator.
 has a "ball" that rolls the antiperspirant on the under arm skin.

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 Skin cosmetics…

Deodorants

 are topically applied products designed to reduce underarm

odor.

 They are considered in the United States as cosmetics, while

antiperspirants are treated by the FDA as drugs

 Deodorants tend to be less irritating than antiperspirants

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 Skin cosmetics…

There are different types deodorant with different strategies

to reduce underarm

 Antiperspirant active-containing deodorants

 Odor-masking deodorants

 Odor-neutralizing deodorants

 Odor-quenching deodorants

 Antimicrobial active-containing deodorants

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 Skin cosmetics…
Antiperspirant active-Containing Deodorants

 Antiperspirant actives such as aluminum chlorohydrate or the Al–

Zr complexes reduce the secretion of eccrine sweat

Odor-masking deodorants

 Fragrance compositions (such as perfumes) are used to mask

odors

 It is conventional to incorporate 0.2% to 1.5% of a perfume in

body deodorants

 They are designed to blend with the underarm odor and thus act
as a masking agent
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 Skin cosmetics…

Odor-Neutralizing Deodorants

 Odorous lower fatty acids contribute to underarm odor.

 Chemical neutralization with sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3)

yields the corresponding odorless soaps

 This active, however, is not stable for a long time in aqueous

compositions

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 Skin cosmetics…
Odor-Quenching Deodorants

 Zinc Ricinoleate Zinc salts of ricinoleic acid have no bacteriostatic

or antiperspirant effect

 They strongly bind odorous fatty acids, amines, and

mercaptanes

 Ligand-exchange reactions of ricinoleic acid for odor molecules

are probably the reason for the quenching properties of zinc
ricinoleate

 Metal Oxides: The oxides of calcium, magnesium, and zinc in the

presence of fatty acids form the corresponding metal soaps
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 Skin cosmetics…
Esterase Inhibitors containing deodorants
 Zinc Glycinate: inhibit exoenzymes from the underarm bacteria and
reduce under arm odor.

 Triethylcitrate : The optimal pH value for development of underarm odor

caused by coryneform bacteria is approximately about pH 6 in axillary
extracts.
 Shifting the skin surface pH to the acidic side decrease the activity of skin
esterases, which are proposed to be responsible for degradation of
underarm secretions.

 Triethylcitrate was proposed to form citric acid by an enzymatic process on

the underarm skin.
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 Skin cosmetics…
Antimicrobial Active-Containing Deodorants

 Triclosan (2,4,40-Trichloro-20-Hydroxydiphenylether):

 This active has a broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against

most gram-positive and gram negative bacteria, molds, and
yeasts.

 Glyceryl Fatty Acid Ester: Mono- and oligoglyceryl fatty acid esters
such as glyceryl monocaprylate, monocaprinate, monolaurate, and
diglyceryl monocaprinate

 higher biodegradability and selective bacterial action

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 Skin cosmetics…

Application forms for deodorant actives

 Typical application forms are sticks, roll-ons, creams, pump

sprays, aerosols, and gels

 Sticks, pump, and aerosols most common

 Deodorants can be formulated in acidic, neutral, or alkaline

environment.

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 Skin cosmetics…
Sunscreen formulation
 UV rays in sunlight triggers production of the pigment melanin,
which then protects the deeper layers of the skin from damage.
 Excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation causes premature aging
of the skin and leads to skin cancer.
 Most sunscreen formulations block UV-B radiation while letting
through the less energetic long-wave UV-A rays that promote
production of melanin.
 creams and lotions
 PABA derivatives OMC (Octyl methoxycinnamate) is now used as a UV-
B filter in about 90% of all sunscreen lotions.

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 Oral cosmetics…

 Divided into oral cleansing products and mouth fresheners

oral cleansing products

 Preparation for external use which clean the teeth and

surrounding them, cleanse and refresh the inside of the
mouth, prevent dental caries and periodontal disease

 Divided in to dentifrices and mouthwash

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 Oral cosmetics…
Dentifrices
 Preparation meant to be applied to the teeth

 are applied with a tooth brush for cleansing the accessible surfaces of the
teeth

 Enhance appearance of the teeth, reduce tooth decay and bad odor of the
mouth and make the gum healthy

 Dentifrices are found in the form of tooth powder , toothpaste and liquid-
form dentifrices

 Ingredients include: polishing agents (abrasive), surface active agents

(detergent), humectants, binders, sweetening agents, Flavoring agents,
preservatives

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 Oral cosmetics…
Mouth wash (Mouth rinse)

 Similar in form to a liquid-form dentifrice but used without

toothbrush

 An appropriate amount is put in the mouth to rinse it out and the

discarded afterwards

 Mouthwashes are classified by usage and form in to

 Directly used type, concentrated type and powder type

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 Oral cosmetics…

 Used to clean the inside of the mouth, prevent halitosis and

refresh the mouth

 Ingredients: ethanol, and other solvents, humectants,

solubilizers, flavoring agents, preservatives and pH regulators

 In powder type, sodium bicarbonate and other diluting agents

are used in the place of liquid ingredients.

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 Oral cosmetics…
Mouth Freshener
 Is preparation for internal use designed to prevent nausea and other feelings
of discomfort

 They are found in the form of pills, lozenges and liquids

 The liquid form is packed in a squeeze or pump type container and is squirted
in to the mouth as a mist

 Ingredients used to flavor mouth fresheners have a strong freshening effect

and include
o cinnamon , mint oil, fennel oil, D-camphor, L-menthol

o Depending on the form of mouth refreshner, other diluting agents, flavoring

agents and preservatives are also used

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