instructables
Modular DIY CNC V2
by jtaggard
I build my first CNC about a year ago and learned a fairly easy to create so this shouldn't be a large
lot from the process. As an engineer I'm always inconvenience for most, especially if you plan on
looking at ways to improve things, and my first actually using a CNC since CAD is a big step in the
machine was no exception. The process began with whole CNC proces. In the future I'll provide the actual
some small changes which quickly turned into the part files for a fee and may consider offering actual
opportunity to overhaul the design even more to printed parts for purchase also for those without a 3D
better suit my needs (an overview of these changes is printer.
detailed in the next step).
Whether you've already made a CNC or this is your
For the previous iteration and documentation of my first one, I hope you find this Instructable helpful. Feel
design, refer to my original Instructable: Modular DIY free to leave any comments or questions down below
CNC Machine which has all the files included for and if you like what you see please vote for me in the
easy access. For this Instructable, however, I've Build a Tool Contest!
decided to include technical drawings of the plates
rather than actual part files. The parts themselves are
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 1
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 2
Step 1: The Design
After building my first CNC I realized there were a few however, leave the front and back of the machine
things I incorporated that I didn't fully need in the open to allow for longer pieces to still fit by utilizing a
design. Namely: pass through or indexing-like system (similar to one
of the Glowforge models).
1. The size. I originally wanted a CNC that was a
decent size and could handle larger jobs, however I 2. Rigidity. The original machine had some play in
found myself only using the front half or so of the the Z-axis when I mounted a router or spindle and
machine. This machine has a smaller cut area and I when certain cuts were performed. For this design I
also changed the width and length proportions so chose to incorporate eccentric spacers on all the axis
wider pieces could be fit on the spoilboard. I did, to take away this play and give a tighter grip to the
framing. --------------------------------------------------
3. Materials. The previous machine was made out of The area of travel for the cutting tool (500W spindle)
80/20 t-slot framing mainly because 80/20.net would is about 13" in the X, 9.5" in the Y and 5" in the Z, but
cut the pieces to length and I wouldn't need to use this could be increased if longer aluminum extrusions
any specialty tools (I essentially had no tools at the were used. The gantry moves along the Y-axis via
time). Through various other projects I've been able to belt drive with motors on either side of the frame
grow my tool collection, and chose to order v-slot while the X-axis moves perpendicular to the Y-axis
extrusions from Openbuilds and cut it to length along the gantry, also via belt drive. Attached to the
myself. Additionally, I have a larger 3D printer now so X-axis is the Z-axis, which moves up and down via
I was able to print all the plates myself and didn't screw drive. I've also incorporated mounting holes on
have to get them laser cut elsewhere. Initially I the plates to allow the axes to be converted to screw
planned to use the 3D plates as prototypes before I drive, however this still needs work to mount the
ordered laser cut pieces or aluminum plates, however motors and make sure everything else lines up.
they seem to be holding up so the other options aren't
needed. The Z-axis still has a basic attachment scheme,
meaning multiple tools can be attached so long as an
4. Electronics. One of my least favorite parts of the adapter is designed with matching mounting holes.
previous machine was the electronics bundling. This For my purpose, my 500W air powered spindle can
made it hard to move the machine around, and attach and I've created an attachment for my 2.5W
overall looked fairly messy. For this machine I chose laser. You could also design an adapter for a pen or
to have a separate box with all the electrical even a 3D printer head to name a few options.
components inside and adapters that can easily be
detached if I need to move the machine. The box also The overall cost of this machine ends up being
has other features included in it that make it easier to around $325, not including the spindle or laser. I hope
use the machine and safer to operate. I also chose to you find this Instructable useful if you decide to build
omit limit switches for this design since I didn't use your own CNC. There are a lot of resources out there
them much, but these can be added back in easily if for doing so, and I hope I've created something that
needed later on. helps centralize a small portion of this information.
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 3
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 4
Step 2: Bill of Materials
Frame: Drawings for all the plates are attached to this
Instructable so you can CAD them yourself. They're
The v-slot aluminum extrusions all come from pretty simple and can be easily recreated no matter
Openbuilds.com but there are other suppliers out your CAD level. The parts can then be 3D printed,
there that might be cheaper. The pieces came machined out of aluminum, laser cut, etc...
oversized but can easily be cut with a circular saw. Additionally I've tried to design the plates so they can
The nature of the design itself allows for various accept either NEMA 17 or NEMA 23 motors, however
frame configurations so you can adjust the extrusion I have not tested out most of the NEMA 23 motor
proportions to fit your specific needs. holes to see if there are any issues. Some plates also
have spots for delrin nut blocks to be mounted on if
Carriages and Drivetrain: you'd rather use a threaded rod instead of a belt
driven system. Again, this has not been fully tested
The X and Y axes move using carriages which so there may be issues. You'll also need to design a
reduce friction and make it easy for attaching the mount to hold the motors if you want to go the
extrusions, motors, and other electronics. For the threaded rod route.
carriage plates, I initially was going to use 1/8"
aluminum plates but wanted to make sure I had a Note that all important dimensions should be included
plate design that worked first. I started with 1/8" 3D in the drawings, however I did not spend the time to
printed PLA plates and was happy with the fit so clean up the drawings and bring them up to ANSI
ditched the metal plate idea for the time being. standards. There should be enough information
Currently I'm using 1/4" thick PLA plates which add included to generate the plates regardless though but
more rigidity than the 1/8" ones. The carriages also let me know if any critical dimensions are missing.
use V-slot wheels with bearings, which start to get
costly as you add them up. However, I've found the --------------------------------------------------
wheels to work very well, and they increase the
overall machine effectiveness. The motors on each Materials List:
carriage then use a belt drive system to move along
the frame. - Estimated Cost: ~$325 (not including spindle or
laser)
For the Z-axis, I added some V rails to the extrusions
so the wheels weren't cantilevered as far from the - See attached Excel file for all parts, prices, and
mounting plate. This axis is also driven using a screw links. All plate files are included in drawing format
and delrin nut directly attached to a NEMA 23 motor while more complex parts have the .STP file included.
which add some rigidity and more power. Standard disclaimer: Some parts might be missing
from assembly materials lists and images. I've
Electronics: attempted to include everything necessary but I might
have missed some parts.
I already had a lot of the electronics from my previous
build so I stuck with what I had to save some money. - Note: A lot of the screws listed are meant to work for
The CNC is still powered by an Arduino Uno with 1/8" thick plates. If you're using 1/4" thick plates you
CNC shield and stepper drivers. Two NEMA 17 might need to add counterbores or use longer
motors power the Y axis while one NEMA 17 motor hardware so everything fits correctly. Additionally, all
powers the X axis. The Z axis is powered by a NEMA assembly photos show 1/8" plates instead of the 1/4"
23 motor. More information on the electronics box can ones I currently have but the assembly is the same
be found in Step 8. regardless..
Custom Parts:
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 5
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FBH/GFX0/JT91PISH/FBHGFX0JT91PISH.pdf
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Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 6
Step 3: Tools Needed and Parts Prep
Tools Needed 6. Multimeter (optional, but helpful)
The tools used are as follows: 7. Circular saw
1. Drill Parts Prep
2. Allen wrench set / precision screwdriver set A few parts will need to be prepared in order to fully fit
for the machine.
3. 3D Printer (can also have pieces printed via 3D
Printing services or make them out of metal) - The V-slot extrusion and V-slot rails need to be cut
to length with a circular saw (see attached image or
4. Hot glue gun use dimensions for each piece in BOM)
5. Tap and die set (optional) - Use the self tapping screws to tap the ends of the
V-slot rails so assembly is easier later. This takes - Some 3D printed parts may need to have the holes
some time and might be easier with a separate tap enlarged/test fit to make for easy assembly later on.
set.
- The M8 rod needs to be cut to length
Step 4: Y Carriage
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 7
Materials: 2) Put each assembly through each of the Eccentric
Multiply all quantities by 2 so you can create both Y Spacer holes in the Y Axis Plate. Make sure the
Carriages. Eccentric Spacer is fully seated in the plate. Tighten
the other side of each bolt with a M5 Lock Nut.
Note: The hardware included is for a 1/8" plate. If
using a 1/4" plate then increase the hardware size by
5mm to 10mm or add counterbores to the plates.
Steps:
1) Assemble (1) M5 x 30mm Bolt through (1) Delrin
Wheel and (1) Eccentric Nut as shown. Create (2) of
these assemblies.
3) Take the other (2) M5 x 30mm Bolts and
assemble through (1) Delrin Wheel and (1)
Aluminum Spacer 6mm each as shown.
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 8
6) Take the last (2) M5 x 30mm Bolts and assemble
each through (1) Smooth Idler and (1) Idler Spacer.
Put these through the Idler holes on the Y Axis Plate
and tighten with M5 Lock Nuts.
4) Put each assembly through each of the two holes
below the Eccentric Spacer holes in the Y Axis
Plate. Tighten the other side of each bolt with a M5
Lock Nut.
7) Attach a Belt Pulley to the NEMA 17 shaft. Attach
this assembly to the Y Axis Plate using (4) M3 x
10mm Screws.
5) Check the fit of the wheels on a Makerslide piece.
The carriage should move smoothly back and forth
and adjust the Eccentric Spacer to adjust the grip
(this can be fine tuned later).
8) Repeat Steps 1 through 7 so you have a mirror
image of this assembly as shown.
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 9
Step 5: Z Axis Assembly and X Carriage
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 10
Materials: (1) Spacer 5.635mm, (1) Delrin Wheel and (1) M5
The Z Axis Assembly will be assembled first and then Lock Nut. Repeat this for the second Eccentric
attached to the X Carriage once it's assembled. Spacer hole on the Z Axis Mounting Plate.
Note:The hardware included is for a 1/8" plate. If
using a 1/4" plate then increase the hardware size by
5mm to 10mm or add counterbores to the plates.
Steps: 2) Assembly (1) M5 x 30mm Screw through one of
1) Assemble (1) M5 x 30mm Screw through one of the Z Axis Mounting Plate holes opposite an
the Z Axis Mounting Plate Eccentric Spacer hole. Eccentric Spacer hole. On the other end assemble on
On the other end assemble on (1) Eccentric Spacer,
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 11
(1) Spacer 11.635mm, (1) Delrin Wheel and (1) M5 Attach the Delrin Nut Block to the Z Axis Mounting
Lock Nut. Repeat this for the second hole on the Z Plate using (2) M5 x 15mm Screws and (2) M5 Lock
Axis Mounting Plate opposite an Eccentric Spacer Nuts.
hole.
4) Take the V Slot 20 x 40 x 8.5" and attach the Z
Axis Top Plate using (2) Self Tapping Screws. Note
that the plate shown is a previous iteration. The
actual plate is thicker and has other features so the
motor doesn't interfere with hardware.
3) Assemble the Delrin Nut Block onto the 8mm
Rod. (Note an anti-backlash nut is shown. I found this
one to be too tight on the thread so I swapped it out
for the Delrin Nut block).
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 12
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 13
src="data:text/plain;base64,/9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQA 5) Take (1) Open Rail V Rail 8.5" and attach (4) M5
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HEEfgSMBJoEqAS2BMQE0wThBPAE/gUNBRwFK these assemblies are backwards in the pictures. If
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Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 14
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Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 15
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Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 31
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Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 32
1
1. Z Axis Assembly 1. X Carriage Assembly
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 33
Step 6: Gantry Assembly
Materials: 2) Slide an extra M5 screw and M5 Tee Nut into the
extrusion then slide on the X/Z Assembly onto the
extrusions. Slide a second M5 screw and M5 Tee
Nut into the same extrusion. These screws will be
used to hold the belt in place.
Steps:
1) Take (1) Y Carriage and make sure it's well
supported. Attach it to the (2) V Slot 20 x 40 x 19.5"
extrusions using (4) Self Tapping Screws.
3) Attach the second Y Carriage onto the Gantry
Assembly using (4) Self Tapping Screws. The
assembly is now complete.
Step 7: Final Assembly
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 34
Materials: of the extrusion.
Not listed:Belts, extra M5 screw and tee nut, 1010 x
12" extrusions and additional 1/4" cap screws, 1/4"
tee nuts and brackets.
Steps:
1) Attach (1) Leg Brace onto (1) V Slot 20 x 40 x 16"
extrusion using (2) Self Tapping Screws. Assemble
(2) 1/4" Cap Screws through the bottom holes of the
Leg Brace and attach (2) 1/4" Tee Nuts on the other
ends. Slide an extra M5 screw and M5 Tee Nut into
the extrusion. Repeat so you have two of these
assemblies.
4) Attach (2) Leg Braces to the (2) V Slot extrusions
using (4) Self Tapping Screws.
Use (4) 1/4" Cap Screws and (4) 1/4" Tee Nuts to
the 1020 x 24" extrusion.
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 35
5) Use a square to make sure everything is square
before tightening the cap screws.
2) Slide the assemblies from the previous step onto
(1) 1020 x 24" extrusion so the flat edge is towards
the inside of the extrusion. Don't tighten the 1/4" Cap
Screws yet. Note you don't have to use the 1020
extrusion but can instead use another piece of V Slot
extrusion and the appropriate hardware. I used this
extrusion because I already had it lying around.
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 36
3) Turn the assembly 180 degrees and slide the
Gantry Assembly onto the (2) V Slot extrusions.
Slide an extra M5 screw and M5 Tee Nut into each
6) Attach some spare 8020 brackets to a 12" 1010 Make sure everything is square and then tighten all
extrusion using some washers, cap screw and tee the cap screws.
nuts. Slide these extrusions between the 1020
extrusions and tighten when square. I used (3) of
these assemblies (one below each leg extrusion and
one in the middle of the machine).
Once everything is tightened then testing moving the
axes around without the belts to make sure
everything runs smoothly. Tighten or loosen the
Eccentric Spacers as necessary.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/EfvhufQMGck
7) Thread (1) Belt under (1) of the M5 screws and
tighten the screw to hold the end in place. Feed the
belt under the Smooth Idler, over the Belt Pulley
and under the other Smooth Idler.
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 37
Slide the other end under the other M5 screw and pull
the belt tight to apply tension. Tighten the screw to
hold the belt in place. Repeat this step for the other Y
Axis motor and X Axis motor.
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 38
8) The mechanical components of the machine are
complete. I also slid some cap screws into the 8020
extrusions to help fix the wasteboard (shown in the
second image). Also shown is a plexiglass shield I
have on either extrusion attached by magnets.
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 39
Step 8: Electronics Routing
I recommend testing all electronics first before placing them. This makes it easier to troubleshoot everything, however this can
still be done if the parts have been placed.
Test the Electronics
The general electronics are a duplicate from my previous machine. Like before, make sure to hook up the power
supply correctly, otherwise you may short out the components and could destroy your electronics. For an extra
precaution, I initially plugged the power supply into a surge protector.
To hook up the supply, I took an old computer power adapter and stripped down the cord so the live, negative and
ground wires are showing. Make sure whatever cable you use has a ground connection. You can use a multi-
meter to determine which wire is which, or you can consult online sources since most cables are the same. Once I
determined which wire is which I labeled them so I didn't get them mixed up later on. I then hooked them up and
plugged the power supply into the outlet and measured the output voltage using a multi-meter to ensure I was
getting the 24V I needed. My power supply had a potentiometer on it so I tuned the supply to get the value I
wanted.
Prepare the Arduino
The next step is to load GRBL onto the Arduino Uno as this is what communicates with the motors and transmits
the G-Code to the CNC. I placed the motor shield on top of the Arduino Uno and the motor drivers on top of that.
It's best to test one motor and motor driver at a time to ensure GRBL is running correctly. Once you've determined
GRBL works, you can hook up the rest of the motors and play with them. I thought this step was pretty cool as it's
one of the main things that makes a CNC a CNC. There are various programs online to actually send GCode to
the Arduino and most of them are pretty light and self explanatory. I like Grbl-Panel the best (linked below), but
there are several other programs available that you can find with a quick search. I also attached a few guides I
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 40
used for installing GRBL and other electronic troubleshooting:
Loading GRBL
Connecting GRBL
Using GRBL
CNC Shield First Run
At this point you can also use the jumpers included with the CNC kit for configuring the 4th axis and
microstepping. Configuring the 4th axis will tell the shield which axis the motor plugged into the "A" port on the
board controls. For this CNC, place two jumpers across the Y pins (detailed here under 4th Axis Configuration)
since the two motors control the Y axis. Microstepping is discussed further in the next step.
CAUTION: Make sure the power supply is off when messing with the Arduino and CNC Shield. If you don't then
you run the risk of damaging the motor drivers, the shield or even the Arduino. Trust me, I learned this the hard
way and it's not fun trying to figure out what's causing the problem.
Finalized Routing
Once I had all the electronics working again I routed the cables to the back right of the machine through various
drag chains.
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 41
I then laid out the power supplies and other electronics I wanted to hide in the box so I knew what size I should cut
my scrap wood into. My box ended up being 8.5"W x 5.5"H x 13"D and has an acrylic window on the top for easy
access. I also incorporated holes in one side of the box for the fan, all four motor connections and a spindle
connection. Also on this side of the box I added in a 3 way switch that splits a secondary AC current so I can
choose if I want to power an outlet or the spindle. I also plan on adding in a relay to the circuit to allow the Arduino
to turn on or off the tool whenever the job starts or stops.
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 42
On the opposite side of the box there are cutouts for the Arduino connections and a spot for the spindle speed
control.
Finally, the back of the box has the power adapter components so I can easily unplug power for the machine itself
or the spindle / outlet current.
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 43
In the initial design I had powered the fan with the Arduino itself but this meant it was only getting around 5V (less
than half of what it's rated for). I added in a 24V to 12V converter so I could power the fan straight from the power
supply at its full power making it easy to cool down all the components.
Step 9: Configure the Electronics
Once everything's been put together your almost done to run your first test program. However, the CNC won't fully
have the right settings, meaning your program won't be accurately executed. The CNC must now be calibrated so
it actually goes where the Gcode tells it to. For instance, the CNC doesn't know how far one revolution of the motor
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 44
actually makes the machine move. To configure this, you need to set the step/mm which tell the motors how far
they need to rotate to move the amount specified in the Gcode.
You may need to iterate through the step values until you have a value that produces the most accurate results.
The main formula you need is:
(New Step Value A) = (Old Step Value) * (Traveled Distance) / (Measured Distance)
The best way to find the step value is:
1. Set the step value in GRBL
2. Mark the machine starting location on each axis using tape or a marker
3. Use the software to move the machine a specified amount
4. Compare the actual amount moved with the desired amount and use the above formula to calculate
the new step value. For example, you may tell the machine to move 1" but it really measures out to
be 0.75" so use the formula to find the new step value.
5. Repeat until you have an actual movement value that matches the desired value (i.e. you tell the
machine to move 1" and it actually moves 1" in that direction)
You can also use microstepping which makes the movement smoother at a loss of torque. For this reason, it's best
to minimize the overall machine friction in order to have the smoothest movement possible. To incorporate this,
you need to connect the appropriate jumpers on the CNC shield and adjust the step value. The new formula you'll
need is:
(New Step Value B) = (New Step Value A) / (Microstepping Fraction) where New Step Value A
is still calculated using the formula above.
For my machine I used the following settings:
X-Axis: 24.482 step/mm (Microstep = 1/4)
Y-Axis: 21.122 step/mm (Microstep = 1/4)
Z-Axis: 49.248 step/mm (Microstep = 1/2)
I also used the following links for reference:
Stepper Motor Calculations
Calibrating GRBL
GBRLInterfacing Programs
The following programs can be used to set GRBL settings and send the G-Code:
GRBL Panel
Candle
GCode Sender
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 45
If Your Stepper Motors Aren't Moving
If your motors are plugged in but they don't move when you send the commands, make sure the correct current or
voltage is being sent to the stepper drivers. You can measure this with a multimeter as mentioned here, then
adjust the potentiometer until the correct value is achieved. Your should run the motors per the specifications. If
you go over these values you run the risk of damaging the motors or stepper drivers. Also make sure all your
electrical connections are sufficient. This can be tedious but sometimes inspecting one component at a time is the
best way to find the culprit for your problems.
Step 10: Run the Machine!
Now comes the fun part: MAKE STUFF! For this you just need to create a design, make the Gcode, and send this
to the machine. There are many different ways to create the code, but I've found success using Easel which is
meant for the XCarve, however you can just change the settings to match your machine and export the Gcode.
The basic steps for running the machine after generating Gcode is as follows:
1. Secure your work piece to the wasteboard.
2. Move the machine to the furthest point of your work piece relative to the homed location (machine
zero). Lower the Z-Axis so it just touches the work piece.
3. Zero the machine. Your work coordinates should now be zero (work zero).
4. Run the Gcode.
Easel runs you through these steps so it should be pretty straight forward. I also run the Gcode before having any
tools in to avoid damaging the tool if the Gcode isn't quite right, or I just use a scrap piece of material rather than
wasting the actual work piece. I quickly tested the machine by laser engraving a square and then doing a test cut
using the spindle. Some of the feed settings and depth cuts still need to be optimized but other than that the
square came out well.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/OQSoUpNtTAU
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 46
https://www.youtube.com/embed/HAEb2l668XI
--------------------------------------------------
Clamps:
There are many different types of clamps out there so it mainly depends on user preference. I like the ones made
by Marius Hornberger or you can find ones on Thingiverse too. Alternatively you can also use tape but make sure
the workpiece is securely fastened to the wasteboard so it doesn't fly off.
Tips and Tricks:
If the motors are skipping steps try adjusting the voltages. The motors may not be getting enough
voltage/current.
Regularly check the belts to make sure they're still tensioned
If you use a relay then put M3 at the beginning of your Gcode and M5 at the end to turn the power to
the outlet ON or OFF respectively. This is especially useful if you're using a laser so the laser
doesn't drag across the workpiece and cause unwanted burn marks.
If your machine isn't moving very quickly or movement seems clunky, try adjusting GRBL settings. I
found success in changing the acceleration and speed until I got movement I was happy with.
Possible Improvements:
Use NEMA 23 motors on all axes for more power
Switch from belt drive to threaded rods for more reliability and precision
Use a knob instead of a coupler on top of the Z-axis to make it more ergonomical
--------------------------------------------------
That's it you're all done creating and setting up your own CNC! Hopefully this Instructable provides yet another
inspiration for how to make your own machine and how certain designs are more efficient than others. Thanks for
reading through this Instructable, and feel free to leave comments and questions below!
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 47
Step 11: Next Steps
As always there are improvements to be made. As of right now I can think of the following:
- Add an enclosure to reduce noise and contain dust
- Dust shoe to help contain dust
- Raspberry Pi to run the CNC without needing to always plug in my laptop
- Swap the 3D printed plates out for metal ones or machined plastic
- Suggestions?
Modular DIY CNC V2: Page 48