SEWING OPERAIONS CBET NOTES

CHAPTER 1: SEWING MACHINE OPERATION

Unit of learning code: FAS/CU/FD/CR/01/4/A

Related Unit of Competency in Occupational Standard: Perform sewing machine

operations
1.1 Introduction to the unit of learning

This unit covers the competencies required to perform sewing machine operations. It
involves understanding the different types of sewing machine, machine parts,
attachments and their functions. It also involves knowledge and skills to set and
operate different types of sewing machines, identifying common sewing machine
faults and their remedies, servicing, maintaining the sewing machine and identifying
tools, equipment and supplies to operate a sewing machine. This standard applies in
Fashion industry.

1.2 Summary of Learning Outcomes

1. Identify parts and functions of the sewing machine

2. Operate the sewing machine
3. Trouble shoot the sewing machine
4. Service and maintain the sewing machine

1.2.1 Learning Outcome 1:1.Identify parts and functions of the sewing machine

1.2.1.1 Introduction to the learning outcome

Sewing machine and its functions helps the operator to understand the different types
of sewing machines and their functions used in the manufacturing of garments. It also
involves identifying the different parts of sewing machines and their functions and the
safety requirements during sewing machine operations.

1.2.1.2 Performance Standard

1. PPEs are identified and used as per legal requirements.
 2. Sewing machines are identified and their functions stated based on type of
machine.
3. Sewing machine parts are identified and functions stated based on machine
type
1.2.1.3 Information Sheet
Workshop safety
Introduction
Safety definition; it is the condition of being free from danger, risk or threat of harm,
injury or loss of life and property whether caused by intentional human actions or by
accidents.
Workshop safety is an important in any sewing industry either in hand sewing, using a
sewing machine both electrical or manual sewing machine. Individuals encounter
several risk factors as they go about their daily activities hence safety measures have
to be taken seriously. Safety is important to everyone and it is one’s responsibility to
maintain a safe working place. The following rules have been put in place to ensure
the safety of everyone;

Workshop safety rules

1. When operating the machine, do not be careless.

2. Always inspect the machine before starting the work. Be sure it is clean and threaded
correctly, with no loose threads on the pulley belt and all guards in place.

3. When in doubt, ask the teacher.

4. Report any injuries or accidents immediately to the teacher.

5. Wipe up any oil spilled on the floor immediately to prevent anyone from slipping.

6. Operate machines only with permission.

7. When sewing on a power machine, wear low shoes and close-fitting clothing. Avoid
loose-fitting sleeves, sweaters, Jewelry, ties and ribbons when operating the machine.
If your hair is long, tie it at the back.

8. Do not tilt your chair forward or backward while operating the machine.

9. Use both hands to raise and lower the machine head.

10. Always keep your head above the table.

11. Keep your feet off the treadle when you are not operating the machine.

12. Keep your feet off the treadle when you are setting or threading the needle.

13. Turn the motor off when you are not stitching.

14. Turn the motor off before cleaning, oiling or adjusting the machine.

15. Turn the motor off before removing or replacing the pulley belt and run the machine
out. Wait until all motion has stopped.

16. Turn the motor off in case of an emergency or when in doubt.

17. Turn the motor off before unplugging the machine.

18. Do not use your hand to stop and start the hand wheel.

19. Use your hand only to set the hand wheel.

20. Before operating the machine, close the slide bed cover.

21. When operating the machine, keep your hands, scissors and other sharp objects away
from the belt.

22. Keep the machine and work station clean with all tools in the side drawer.

23. Unplug the machine at the end of the day.

24. Know the location of the main power switch, outlets and fuses in case of an
emergency.

25. Do not remove any safety devices from the machines.

26. Turn off the iron at the end of the class.

27. Always place the iron on the iron pad to avoid burning the ironing board cover.

28. When trimming or cutting, put all trimmings in the wastebasket.

29. Scissors should be handed to another person with the handles toward the person.

30. Never toss or throw scissors or equipment.

31. Do not eat or drink in the work area.

Reasons for workshop rules
• To protect property
• To prevent loss of lives
• To enable smooth flowing of work
• To prevent accidents
Personal Protective Equipment

This are protective equipment or garment designed to protect the wearer’s body from
injury or infection. These injuries or infections may result from contact with
chemicals, physical, electrical, mechanical or other work place hazards. This
equipment may include items such as;

 Gloves
 Low heeled closed shoes
 safety glasses
 overalls/dustcoat
 thimble
 face mask

Benefits of Personal Protective Equipment in Garment Industry.

1. Lowers the risk of Respiratory Problems

Inhalation of gases, smoke, and chemicals can impact your respiratory negatively.
These contaminants are toxic; therefore, they can lead to short term and long term
respiratory-related illnesses. A worker should be fully equipped with hearing
protection, eye protection, and flame-resistant gears. These protective garments will
prevent health issues, such as irritation and breathing difficulties. You should use
respirators in incidences where there’s insufficient ventilation.

2. Prevent Injuries from Corrosives

If you’re dealing with chemicals, it’s a great and safe idea to wear full personal
protective clothing. Concentrated chemicals are corrosive and harmful. Therefore,
dangerous chemicals can impact your skin or eyes when there’s a spillage or leaking.
Double-check your protective gear to ensure that you’re fully protected. Chemical
spillage can lead to long term health impacts, thus reducing your production.
Therefore, it’s crucial to invest in the right protective clothing.

3. Protects your Body from Extreme Cold and Heat

Working on a conducive environment is essential. Therefore, the right protective
garment will enhance workers comfort and safety, even in dangerous and
uncomfortable situations. There are a variety of protective gears that will protect you
from extreme heat and cold. When working on sectors with extreme heat, it’s
advisable to use multiple layers of PPE. Use wicking materials to improve your
warmth in cold environments.

4. Prevent Critical Injuries

Use the right head protection garment, body protection clothing, and footwear when
accessing hazardous areas. Head helmets and boots are the best examples of head and
foot protective gears. Injuries are prone in the garment industry. Therefore, it’s a great
idea to wear suitable protective gear
Accidents in the workshop
An accident is unexpected or undesired sudden event that results to danger, or
damage, or injury. Prevention of accidents is important in any working condition.
In ensuring safety in the workshop, the following must be taken into consideration;
- Availability of safety devices
- How to use safety devices
- Proper training on the use of safety devices
- Following proper workshop safety procedures and dressing codes

Types of workshop accidents

There are various types of accident among which are;
 Cuts and injury from cutting tools, broken bottles and metallic objects
 Injury from faulty machines and tools.
 Contact with acidic or corrosive chemicals.
 Electric shock
 Suffocation
 Falls
 Emission of toxic gases and inhalation
 Fire outbreak
Causes of accidents
 Not wearing protective clothing such as gloves when handling chemicals.
  Wearing loose clothing which could be trapped when the machine is in
motion.
 Ignoring or disobeying workshop rules
 Running or moving carelessly in the workshop.
 Failing to follow workshop procedures.
 Using machines and tools when one is generally sick or fatigued
 Leaving iron boxes on for a long time or dropping charcoal iron boxes.
 Exposed electrical wires from electric sockets
 Lack of enough light in the workshop
 Lack of ventilation
 Spillage of water and oil on the floor.
Prevention of accidents
 Using proper tools for each job at hand
 Following workshop instructions
 Avoid oily, greasy or wet floors in order to prevent falling.
 Keep away sharp and broken objects that can pierce and injure someone.
 Avoid using old or worn out tools.
 Concentrate and focus on the job at hand
 Be alert while working on moving machines, tools and chemicals
Workshop fire accidents
Workshop fire accidents are mishaps or occurrences of fire outbreaks in a factory or
workshop. Fire accidents are in three main categories namely;
1. Electric fire – this type of fire is caused by faulty electric circuits, power
surge or leaving on hot electric appliances on for long.
2. Chemical fire – this type of fire occurs from inflammable gases and fluids
like spirit, diesel, thinner, petrol etc. and therefore they should be handled with
care.
3. Wood, paper and cloth – this type of fire is also called solid fire. Avoid
keeping such materials near fire or intense heating equipment.

Class Source How to put it off

A Paper, wood, cloth Water, sand, fire blanket
B Oil Form, sand
C Electrical Carbon dioxide
 D Combustible metals Form, carbon dioxide
Table 1; classes of fire

Firefighting equipment
There are many types of firefighting equipment depending on the type of fires. They
include fire blankets, sand buckets, fire extinguishers and firefighting engines among
others.
1. Fire extinguishers
Water extinguisher
- They are used for Class A fires.
- Water removes heat and extinguish the fire.
- Water must not be used on fires involving live electrical equipment as it can
cause electrocution.
- Water must not be used on metal fires.
Carbon dioxide extinguishers
- CO2 is not suitable for fires involving metals.
- Its principal advantage is that it does not leave any residue.
- Can be used on electrical/electronic equipment.
AFF Foam Type Extinguishers
- The extinguishing agent is aqueous film forming concentrate in water which
forms air foams when discharged through an aspirating nozzle.
- It has a blanketing effect excluding oxygen from the surface of the fuel as it
spreads on the fuel.
- Prevents vapor formation from the surface of the burning liquid.
- It develops a floating aqueous film of solution under the foam on fuel surface
and cool the burning surface.
- AFF extinguishers must not be used on electrical and metal fires.
Dry Chemical Powder (DCP) Extinguisher
- The main base chemicals used in DCP extinguishers are sodium bicarbonate
and potassium bicarbonate.
- DCP extinguishers puts out fire by coating the fuel surface with chemical
powder.
 - This separates the fuel from the oxygen in the air and prevent vapor
formation.
- The powder also interrupts the chemical chain reaction of fire.
- The disadvantage is that it leaves residue particularly making it difficult to
clean up in case of sensitive equipment.
Special Dry Powder Extinguisher
- Special extinguishing agents are used for extinguishing metallic fires.
- Dry powders extinguish the fire by forming a crust on metal surface excluding
air and also absorbs heat from the metal surface.
E.g., Blended sodium chloride based dry powder, ternary eutectic chloride (TEC)
powder, graphite etc.
How to use a fire extinguisher?
- Hold it upright
- Withdraw safety cap or pull safety pin.
- Press the lever fully down. Point the nozzle at the base of the fire.

2. Sand bucket
In every workshop there should be a metal sand bucket painted red and filled with
sand that can be used in putting off small fires.to put out a fire, sprinkle sand over the
fire. The sand chokes the fuel out of oxygen.
Note wet sand is not suitable especially when putting out electric fires.
3. Fire blanket
The fire blanket is manufactured from woven fiber glass.it resembles a woven sack. It
is good for putting out domestic and industrial fires. The blanket is stored in a case.
When there is fire gently cover the fire to put out the burning fuel.in case of an
industrial fire, wrap yourself tightly.
4. Fire alarm
This is a siren that is sounded for the purpose of alerting people of a fire outbreak in a
workshop. There are two types of fire alarm switches; glass sealed switch and gong.
For the glass sealed switch, break or heat the glass with something to trigger while the
gong, turn it round several times.
First Aid
It is defined as the immediate treatment or temporary treatment given to a victim of
sudden injury or sickness while waiting to be attended to by professional medical
personnel. Every workshop should have a person knowledgeable of first aid and a first
aid kit for such treatment.
All accidents, cuts and abrasions must be reported before leaving the workshop. If an
accident does happen, no matter how small, it must be reported to the workshop staff
and an Accident Report Form filled out. Filling out this form is imperative for any
future complications resulting from an accident.

FIRST AID KIT.

A first aid kit is a collection of supplies and equipment that is used to give medical
treatment. There are a number of items which should be contained in a first aid kit
they include but not limited to;
 Plasters in a variety of different sizes and shapes
 First aid manual,
 Small, medium and large sterile gauze dressing.
 Sterile eye dressings.
 Crepe rolled bandages.
 Safety pins
 Disposable sterile gloves.
 Tweezers.
 Scissors
 Alcohol-free cleansing wipes.
 Thermometer
 Skin rash cream
 Antiseptic cream.
 Painkillers
 Distilled water for cleaning wounds
 Eye wash and eye bath
FIRST AID PROCEDURES
Burns and scald injury
When a person comes into contact with any intense sources of heat be they burning
objects or liquids, chemicals or other sources of heat, burns are likely to occur.
Symptoms of burns
 - Red pulling or blistered skin
- Watery fluid oozing out
- swelling of the injured area
- Severe pain experienced by the injured patient
First aid procedure
- Remove the source of heat from the patient or patient from the heat source.
- Cool the affected area for 20 min using cool running water or apply a first aid
burn gel if available.
- Apply a sterile dressing, use non adhesive dressing
- Take the patient to the hospital
Cuts, scratches or bruises
First aid procedure
- Clean the cut under running water to remove any dirt
- Cover the cut temporary while cleaning the surrounding skin with soap and
then dry the skin
- Cover the cut completely with a sterile dressing
Shock
Shock is a life threatening condition that occurs when the vital organs such as the lung
and the heart are deprived of oxygen due to a problem affecting the circulatory
system.

Symptoms of shock
- Pale face and luck of luster eyes
- A person shivers and is in cold
- Fast and shallow breathing
- Rapid and weak pulse
- Yawning and feeling weak
Treatment
- make the person lay down on the back
- raise legs above head level
- do not feed the patient orally
- cover the person with a blanket for warmth
Fainting.
Fainting occurs because of temporary, inadequate supply of blood to the brain.
Treatment
 Loosen all tight clothing
 Place the person in a cool airy place such as a shade or a well-ventilated room.
 Lay him with the head lower than the rest of the body
 No overcrowding around the casualty
 Take the person to a doctor for proper treatment.

SEWING MACHINES AND THEIR FUNCTIONS.

A sewing machine is a mechanical (or electromechanical) device that joins fabric
using thread. Sewing machines make a stitch, called a sewing-machine stitch, usually
using two threads although machines exist that stitch using one, three, four or more
threads.
An innovation (apart from electricity) of sewing machine includes the ability to
zigzag and to make more sophisticated stitching patterns.

Categories of sewing machine

The following are the 2 main categories of sewing machine.

Domestic sewing machines

These are designed mainly for one person to sew individual dresses while using a
single stitch type. Modern sewing machines are designed in such a way that the fabric
easily glides in and out of the sewing machine, speeding the stitching process and
saving time and energy. Some key points for domestic sewing machines are as
follows.
 Domestic sewing machines are usually used in homes by people simply
interested in sewing.
 These are commonly used by people in a variety of projects for dressmaking,
and for stitching simple home furnishing items.
 With little changes, these machines can perform a variety of stitch types.
 Domestic sewing machines usually work on lightweight fabrics or work
pieces.
 These machines run on significantly smaller motors compared to that of the
industrial sewing machines.
Industrial sewing machines
  Industrial sewing machines are a heavy-duty version of a standard basic
sewing machine, and it is used in garment and other related industries.
 Industrial sewing machines are used for mass production.
 These are heavy-duty machines that work thousands of stitches per minute.
 An industrial machine is well equipped with a clutch and large servo motor.
 Industrial machines are mainly designed to perform one single specific
function in assembly line based factories.
 Some industrial machines are designed to operate heavier than normal
material.
 Mainly, mass production requires an industrial sewing machine, which is
designed to sew heavy material speedily, such as leather, canvas, and vinyl, at
one time.
 The industrial machines are named based on the function that they serve.
Typical names for industrial machine class include pocket setter, buttonhole,
and programmable pattern sewers, etc. For instance, a pocket industrial
machine can sew 2,000 pockets in an eight-hour production cycle.
 Programmable machines can store 10–30 or more patterns in the memory.
 Special purpose industrial machines can give better output in production, for
example, buttonhole machines, pocket setter, pattern sewer.
Industrial sewing machines are larger, faster, more complex, and more varied in their
size, price and task.
Comparison between domestic and industrial sewing machines:
- The industrial machine is faster, stitching from 3000–6000 stitches per minute,
while the fastest domestic sewing machine stitches not more than 1500
stitches per minute.
- The presser foot on a power machine is raised and lowered with a knee lift to a
special foot pedal. On domestic machines, it is generally operated manually
using a lever at the back of the needle bar.
- Lubrication is done automatically in industrial sewing machines whereas it is
done manually in domestic sewing machines.
Classification of Sewing Machine:
Types of sewing machine
Though there are different types of sewing machine but mainly, three types are
considered for sewing, as given below.
 1. Mechanical sewing machines
2. Electronic sewing machines
3. Computerized sewing machines
1. Mechanical sewing machines
These machines are less expensive and are the simplest type of sewing machines in
terms of build. They are the hand-operated sewing machine and treadle sewing
machine.

Hand-operated sewing machine

i. This is the simplest form of domestic sewing machine which is operated by
hand.
ii. A handle is attached to the flywheel which is detachable and is used to operate
the machine.
iii. A hand-operated sewing machine is generally used for domestic purpose for
simple projects as it does not work very speedily.
iv. This machine is suitable where there is no electricity supply.

Figure 1. 1; hand operated sewing machine. Photo credits; ivm 101- sewing machine
operator

Treadle sewing machine

- This machine is the same as a hand-operated sewing machine but it is operated
by feet, with an additional stand attached to the machine.
- A belt is attached to the lower stand passing through the balance wheel and
driven by feet.
- These machines run faster than the hand-operated sewing machine.
- This machine is also suitable for the places where there is no electric supply.
 - When handling the treadle sewing machine, both the hands of the Operator are
free to handle the fabric. Hence, this speeds up the work of sewing.

Figure 1. 2; treadle sewing machine. Photo credit, ivm 101.pdf

2. Electronic sewing machine

There are many more features in an electronic sewing machine than in a
mechanical sewing machine.
- These sewing machines run faster than manually operated machines.
- In the electronic machines, balance wheel comes to motion by a belt, which is
attached to an electric motor.
- A single motor is attached to the electronic sewing machines and this motor
supplies power to the needle.
- It is essential to control the speed of this machine by putting pressure on an
electronic foot pedal.
- Practice is essential to handle an electric sewing machine.
3. Computerized sewing machines
- These sewing machines are very fast and specific to use.
- These machines are similar to the electronic sewing machines. However, a
computerized sewing machine works with the help of various software.
- Computerized sewing machines allow the Operator to tailor the functions
according to the sewing needs. A computerized sewing machine functions
very appropriately in designing and stitching various components of the
garment like sleeves, yokes, pockets, etc. These advanced computerized
 machines have an LED display or LCD display or touch screen. They are
multi-function machines and are expensive.

Sewing Machine Classification Based on Its Bed Type:

The machine bed is the lower part of the machine and feed dog and loopers are
positioned beneath it. Table-1 shows the various kinds of machine beds along with
their uses.

The bed of a sewing machine is that part of the sewing machine on (or against) which
the fabric rests while it is being sewn. The classification of sewing machine bed types
or shape types is done based on the manner in which the fabric falls, behaves and
travels with respect to the bed during the course of sewing, to enable easier movement
of materials around the machine.

Sewing Picture Features and Stitch

Machine Applications Type
Flat-bed A vast Lock
machine working and
space chain
permits a stitch
wide range of
sewing
applications
and is
utilized for all
types of flat
Sewing work.
Raised The machine Lock
bed bed is in the and
machine form of a chain
pedestal stitch
which
helps in
assembling of
presewn
parts. This is
specifically
used for
attachment of
accessories
and special
attachments.
Post bed It has a raised Lock
machine working and
machine bed chain
and is used stitch
for stitching
of three
dimensional
products
Such as shoes
and bags.
Cylinder It has a Lock
bed horizontal and
machine arm-shaped chain
bed as well as stitch
increased
working
height.
It is most
suited for
sewing
tubular
components
like sleeves,
cuffs and
trouser legs,
and
can also be
utilized for
button sewing
and bar
tacking.
Side bed These are Chain
machine dedicated for and
or feed of edge sewing over-
the arm and requires edge
sewing a lesser stitch
machine working
space

Figure 1. 3; bed types.

Classification of Sewing Machine Based on specific function:

The sewing machine classification based on the machine type is given below.

Table-3: Classification of sewing machine based on machine type.

Machine Types Applications/function

1. Lock stitch machine Straight and zigzag seams
2. Chain stitch machine Makes machine chain stitches.
3. Double chain stitch Utilizes two needles to make the chain stitches
machine
4. Blind stitch machine Blind stitch and hemming
5. Linking machine Linking machine attaching trimming and
cuff of knitted fabrics.
7. Safety stitch machine Safety stitching
8. Buttonhole machine Specific sewing operation
9. Button sewing machine Used to attach buttons to garments.
10. Bar tack sewing Sews dense tack around the open end of the button
machine hole.
11. Profile sewer Automatic, complex sewing operation
12. The feed of arm Stitch a narrow tubular seam on the outer edge of the
machine trousers and shirt.
13. Over-lock machine Sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for
edging, hemming or seaming.
12. Pocket sewer Help attach pockets on to garments.
Table 2; special machines

Choosing a sewing machine

A sewing machine is an expensive piece of equipment therefore it should be chosen
wisely;
 Consider the cost of the machine.
 Buy from a reliable dealer.
 Make sure that the spare parts and servicing are locally available.
 The purpose of the machine whether for domestic or for business purpose.
 Choose a versatile machine.
 Check that all parts of the machine are in good working order.
 See that there is manual of instruction supplied with the model.
SEWING MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS
Basic Parts of a Sewing Machine and Their Functions:

The basic structure of sewing machine is the same whether it is hand-operated sewing,
treadle sewing machine or electric sewing machine. The basic parts of sewing are
listed below.

Figure 1. 4 ; sewing machine parts. Photo credits; blogspot.com.

1. Spool pin: It is fitted on top of the arm to hold the reel.

2. Thread guide: It holds the thread in position from the spool to the needle.

3. Tension disc: The two concave discs put together with the convex sides facing
each other. The thread passes between the two. The tension of the thread is adjusted
by a spring and nut which increases or decreases pressure

4. Take up lever: It is a lever fitted to the body of the arm. It’s up and down motion
feeds the thread to the needle and tightens the loop formed by the shuttle.

5. Needle bar: This is a steel rod to hold the needle at one end with the help of a
clamp. Its main function is to give motion to the needle.
6. Bobbin case: This moves into position to catch the top thread and form the stitch
as the needle is lowered into the bobbin chamber.

7. Presser foot: It is fixed to the presser bar to hold the cloth firmly in position when
lowered.

8. Presser foot lifter: A lever attached to the presser bar for raising and lowering the
presser foot.

9. Stitch regulator: This controls the length of the stitch.

10. Bobbin winder: A simple mechanism used for winding thread on the bobbin.

11. Fly Wheel: When this is made to revolve, it works the mechanism of the motion

12. Clutch or Thumb Screw: This is in the center of the fly wheel and it engages and
disengages the stitching mechanism.

13. Slide Plate: A rectangular plate, which facilitates the removal of the bobbin case
without lifting the machine.

14. Needle Plate or Throat Plate: A semi-circular disc with a hole to allow the
needle to pass through it.

15. Feed dog: This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate. It helps to
move the cloth forward while sewing.

16. Face plate: A cover which on removal gives access to the oiling points on the
needle bar, presser bar and take-up lever.

17. Spool pin for bobbin winding: Spool of thread is placed on this at the time of
bobbin winding.

Other important parts of the sewing machine.

 a) Shuttle: used for holding bobbin and bobbin case which carries the lower
thread.
b) Bobbin: detachable part of the machine that carries the under thread.
c) Treadle: the operator treadle or presses this part of machine to move or drive
the machine.
d) Reverse lever: help reversing feed-dog when reinforcing stitches at the start
and end of stitching operation.
e) Stop motion screw: used for stopping needle movement when bobbin
winding.
f) Needle clamp: used for tightening and loosening the needle on the needle bar
g) Pressure regulating screw: used to regulate the amount of pressure that
presser foot exerts on different fabric weights or thickness when stitching.

SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENTS

Different machines have separate attachments for different sewing processes such as
hemming, gathering, etc., but they operate differently on various makes of machines.
They include;

Machine attachment Function

1. Blind hem foot It is an additional attachment basically used for
edge finishing of various apparels like trousers
and skirts, and home furnishing items like
curtains, etc.
2. Braiding foot It allows lot of flexibility while attaching elastic
cord, braid or cord
3. Button fixing foot It can attach two-holed buttons and four-holed
buttons to the material or garment. In this
machine, the foot holds the button in place and
then attaches the button to the fabric using
zigzag stitch
4. Buttonhole foot It is used for preparing precise buttonholes or
binding the raw edges
 5. Circular sewing It allows the operator to stitch in a circular
attachment. pattern using straight stitch, zigzag stitch and
any decorative stitches
6. Cording foot To attach decorative cords and threads, a
cording foot is attached to the machine. This
foot is designed for stitching closed to a raised
edge. It is used for applying cord to the seam.
7. Hemmer foot It works on the sleek and small edges of fabrics
as it automatically curls using either a straight
stitch or decorative stitch at the hemlines. It
works for hems which are too small to do by
hand. It is best suitable
8. Ruffling foot It easily makes and attaches ruffles on different
types of fabric and finish the fabric edges. This
attachment is capable of taking gathered or
pleated frills, and will take and apply frills to
another section at the same time.
9. Zipper foot It is the footer used for attaching mainly zips
and snap tape.

10. Gathering foot It is attached to create gathers on a fabric with

high speed and precision to create perfect
ruffles. This attachment gathers the fabric as it
is stitched with fullness locked in every stitch

Table 3; attachments.

1.2.1.4 Learning Activities

Activity 1-Practical activities

Prepare a chart of the different type of sewing machines and make a scrapbook.
Activity 2: field trip
Visit a garment manufacturing industry/local distributors of sewing
machines/boutiques/workshops/units of garment making and designing.

Materials Required

1. Notebook
2. Pen
3. Camera (if available/mobile phone with camera)

Objectives/aim Indicator
Observe the different parts and  Different types of machine
attachments of a sewing machine and its attachments
functions.  sewing machine parts and
functions
Type of sewing machines used and their  Mechanical
functions.  Electrical
 Computerized
 Special machines
Various safety measure  What are the firefighting equipment
available?
 What are the safety precautions put
in place to prevent accidents
Table 4; field trip

Role play situation

In a group of 2 or 3 practice how to;

a) Put out an electrical fire that has been caused by faulty socket.
b) Give first aid to a burn which has been caused by a chemical.
1.2.1.5 Self-Assessment
1. Which one of the following allows the machine to stitch backwards to secure
stitches?
A. Reverse control
B. Stitch length
C. Back stitch
 D. Tension guide
2. Long hair is not a good thing in the workshop, give a reason why
3. As a fashion designer you want to open a fashion design shop. What are some of
the factors you will consider when purchasing a sewing machine?
4. As sewing machine operator what are some of special machine attachments you
will need during garment construction?
5. In fashion design studio what types of fire are likely to occur?

1.2.1.6 Tools, Equipment, Supplies and Materials

 Fire extinguishers
 stationery
 sewing machines
 drivers
 assorted machine needles
 pliers
 Assorted PPE items.
 Special machine attachments

1.2.1.7 References
1. Job Role (2019) Sewing Machine Operators. Publication Division by
the Secretary, National Council of Educational Research and Training.
2. Alison Smith (2009), the Sewing Book. 1st edition Publication New
York.
3. Martha Stewart’s (2010) Encyclopedia of sewing and fabric
crafts.1st edition. CrownPublishingGroup,adivisionof
RandomHouse,Inc.,NewYork.
4. Singer Sewing Company (2009) The Complete Photo Guide to
Sewing. 1st edition, Creative Publications International.
5. https://clothingindustry.blogpost.com
6. Kenya institute of education (1988) home science form 2. Kenya
literature bureau
7. Grace m, Margaret n, martin k, Eileen n (2015) fashion design and
garment making basic level. The Jomo Kenyatta foundation.
SELF-ASSESSMENT ANSWERS
1. Which one of the following allows the machine to stitch backwards to secure
stitches?
A. Riverse control
B. Stitch length
C. Back stitch
D. Tension guide
2. Long hair is not a good thing in the workshop, give a reason why

Because long hair can get caught in a machine and cause injury

3. As a fashion designer you want to open a fashion design shop. What are some of
the factors you will consider when purchasing a sewing machine?
Check for warranty
Consider the cost of the machine.
Buy from a reliable dealer.
Make sure that the spare parts and servicing are locally available.
The purpose of the machine whether for domestic or for business purpose.
Choose a versatile machine.
Check that all parts of the machine are in good working order.
See that there is manual of instruction supplied with the model.

4. As sewing machine operator what are some of special machine attachments you
will need during garment construction?
Blind hem foot

Braiding foot

Button fixing foot

Buttonhole foot

Circular sewing attachment.

Cording foot

Hemmer foot

Ruffling foot

Zipper foot

Gathering foot

5. In a fashion design studio what the types of fire that are likely to occur?
Class Source
A Paper, wood, cloth
B Oil
C Electrical
1.2.2 Learning Outcome 2: Operate The Sewing Machine
1.2.2.1 Introduction to the learning outcome
Operating a sewing machine involves understanding the principles of
threading a machine, bobbin, stitch formation and mechanical movements of a
sewing machine. It also involves practicing the various stitching techniques
and sound knowledge of the various tools, equipment and supplies needed to
operate a sewing machine.

1.2.2.2 Performance Standard

1. Sewing machine is set up based on machine type and standard operating
procedures.
2. Sewing machine is operated based on standard operating procedures.

1.2.2.3 Information Sheet

Principles of machine operations

The basic working principle of sewing machines is very simple: two threads, one
needle, up and down, stitch formed. The sewing machines are made of many pieces
which synchronously work together to form stitches. The mechanism of a sewing
machine can be divided into the four areas:
1. Motive source
2. Stitch formation
3. Fabric movement
4. Thread control

1. MOTIVE SOURCE Whether hand driven or powered by an electric motor or

treadle belt, the connection to the machine is the balance wheel. This serves to even
out any ‘lumpiness’ in the machine to give a smooth action.

2. STITCH FORMATION
Needle movement: The rotating driveshaft in the arm of the machine connects to the
needle bar through levers in the head to produce the up and down movement of the
needle. The sewing machine needle is a highly sophisticated piece of design which we
look at in detail on the following page.
Stitch making: The drive shaft has a vertical crank attached to it, going down under
the base plate. Again, by a series of levers, this connects to a hook ring. The hook ring
picks up the upper thread and guides it round the bobbin holding the lower thread.
Using the up and down movement of the needle and the rotation of the hook ring the
two threads are looped together to form the stitch.

The Needle: The needle used in most of the domestic machines we handle has the
following features:
 A flat side at the top end to secure it to the needle bar. (Interlockers and some
industrials use round needles).
 On the same side of the needle, a thinning of the needle just above the eye.
 On the opposite side of the needle, a groove runs from near the top, down to
the eye.
When the needle pierces the fabric on the down stroke, the thread on one side will lie
in the groove. When the needle starts to rise again, the thread in the groove rises with
it, but on the other side, the thread is pinched between the cloth and the side of the
needle this friction against the fabric causes the thread to be retarded and a loop is
formed just above the eye of the needle. The upward stroke of the needle creates the
crucial moment in the sewing cycle and, as you can see from the illustration, the
action takes place beneath the cloth.

The Hook Ring: As the hook ring turns in its part circle, the hook picks up the loop
made by the needle and drags it round the lower bobbin. The thread then slips off the
hook and, as the needle bar rises, is pulled round the lower bobbin to make the stitch.
Below, you can see that the bobbin thread has been encircled by the stitch loop
formed by the top thread. This action in the stitch cycle is the most important
combination of movements performed by the machine. And yet, at normal sewing
speed, it only takes about a fifth of a second to complete, which is approximately the
time required to wink your eye. Accurate synchronization (or timing) between the
simultaneous tasks of stitch formation is essential for the machine to work. If you
thread up a machine, and sew a few stitches slowly on the edge of a piece of cloth
with the cover plate open, you can see this stitch formation for yourself.
Bobbin thread Upper thread

Needle

Figure 1. 5hook ring. Photo credits; Cholla.mmto.org/sewing/operation

3. FABRIC MOVEMENT
At each revolution of the machine the teeth of the feed dog rises lightly above the
base plate. The teeth grip the underside of the cloth and feed it forward a tiny
measured amount deter-mined by the setting of the stitch length regulator. The
movement of the feed dog is generated through yet more levers, from another vertical
shaft working from the drive shaft.

Fabric control: The fabric is held tight during stitching by the presser foot squeezing
the fabric against the teeth of the feed dog or the throat plate while the feed dog is
below the plate. The amount of pressure can be regulated by the presser regulating
screw on top of the head and released completely by raising the presser bar lifter.

4. THREAD CONTROL
Stitch tension: The tightness of the stitch is controlled by two different tension
mechanisms:
(1) The bobbin has a small spring on its case, which delivers the thread under a slight
tension.
(2) The main tension mechanism is on the upper thread, on the head of the machine.
The thread passes between two saucer shaped discs. The pressure between the discs
can be varied by the tension regulating thumb nut.
(3) The upper tension is released completely when the presser bar lifter is raised. The
lifter presses on a pin which in turn pushes the discs apart. When the tension is
released the fabric can be removed easily.
(4) To provide sufficient thread for this loop (not under tension) the thread take up
lever on the head travels downwards, rising again to pull the stitch tight.

Thread take up spring: As the slack thread lever reaches the top of its travel, the feed
dog is also moving forward to make the stitch. At this point the thread is under extra
tension and to avoid snap-ping the thread at long stitch lengths - it is passed through
the thread take up spring in the tension mechanism which cushions the strain.

Figure 1. 6; stitch formation. Photo credits; Cholla.mmto.org/sewing/operation.

Tools and supplies for sewing machines operation

Tools are classified according to the function they perform.
Needles
Sewing machine needles in the garment industry, there are several types of sewing
machine, each requiring different type of needles. Each manufacturer of the needle
identifies its needles in a different way; and needles for the same type of system may
have several different names or numbers, depending on the manufacturer. Though the
sewing machine needles are of various types, they may be selected according to its
application. The size of the needles mainly depends on the structure and type of
fabric, and sewing threads. Machine sewing needles are mostly available from sizes 9
to 18. The different type of needles are made to fix on specific sewing machines and
specific models. The needle sizes should match with the weight, thickness, and kind
of the fabric. If the needle is very fine, it will abrade the thread; bend, break, affect the
loop formation and cause skipped stitches. If it is too coarse, it will damage the fabric,
producing an unattractive seam, and causing the seam to pucker. The different parts of
a sewing machine needle are as follows.
Butt
It is a small pyramid at the upper end of the shank. It is designed to make a single
point contact with the hole in the needle bar.
Shank
The upper end of the needle that is held in the needle bar by the needle screw is the
shank. The shank is usually round, but it can have one or two flat sides. Designed to
support and stabilize the needle blade, the diameter of the shank is mostly larger than
the diameter of the blade.
Shoulder
It is the beginning of the shank just above the needle blade.
Blade
It is the thin section of the sewing needle that extends from the shank to the eye. It can
be easily bent and hence, should be examined regularly for its straightening.
Scarf
It is a small indentation above the eye that permits the hook to pick up the thread loop.
On some needles, the scarf is elongated and/or deeper to ensure that the needle thread
loop will be large enough to prevent the skipped stitches.
Short groove
It is placed in the side of the needle where the hook or looper is placed. It is a small
groove between the tip and the needle eye. Short groove helps the sewing thread to
create a loop. Eye
It is an opening in the needle blade at the lower end of the long groove. It carries the
thread into the fabric to the hook or looper to make a stitch. The size of an eye is
proportional to the diameter of the blade.
Point
It is the tapered end of the needle and is often considered the most critical part of the
needle. Mostly, the needles have a round point, ball point, or a cutting point.
Generally, round points and ball points are used for woven and knit fabrics because
they can penetrate the fabric by spreading the fibers or deflecting the yarns without
damaging them, while needles with cutting points are used mainly for leather.

The different points of a needle are as follows.

Sharp needle
It is pointed and ideal for almost all woven fabrics.
Ball point needle
It has a slightly rounded tip, which is recommended for all knit and elastic fabrics.
Wedge point needle
A specially designed needle with a wedge like, triangular point, which enables it to
make large, clean holes through thick material like leather, vinyl or suede
(pronounced as swayed). They are ideal for shoe repair, belts and other leather
garments and accessories. Sewing machine needles can affect the output of a sewing
machine. When an inappropriate needle or bent needle is used, it can cause skipped
stitches, poor stitch formation, and even damage to the machine.

Factors to consider when selecting needles

THICKNESS – Sewing machine needle sizes vary by the needle’s thickness. A thicker
needle can sew through thicker fabrics. Thinner needles, of course, are most suited to
fine fabrics such as silk and chiffon.
PURPOSE – The needle’s purpose such as for sewing stretch fabrics or topstitching
or sewing denim. Leather needs specialized needles to pierce. Often different fabrics
and purposes require different shaped tips in order to best penetrate the fabric fibers.

Select needle size and type according to fabric type and weight and the kind of
stitching you will be doing. For general construction, use sharp points for woven and
nonwoven fabrics, ballpoints for knits. These are usually distinguished by the color of
the shaft. Universal points can be used for many fabric types, knitted and woven, and
they are also available with a slip-in thread slot for sewers with poor vision. There are
needles designed specifically for sewing leather and denim. For decorative sewing,
use needles designed for topstitching, embroidery, metallic threads, and quilting.
Twin and triple needles, available in different sizes and widths of separation, are used
for stitching two or three parallel rows at a time. Hemstitching, or wing, needles are
used for heirloom embroidery. Multiple and hemstitch needles can only be used on
zigzag machines that have wide needle holes in the throat plate.
Figure 1. 7 ; sewing needles

Tweezers
This a tool used to grab the ends of thread when threading needle on machine.

Figure 1. 8 ; tweezer. Photo credits; en.m.wikipedia.org.

Allan keys
It is a simple tool use used to drive bolts and screws with hexagonal sockets in their
heads
Screw drivers.The tool is usually formed of a single piece of hexagonal rod of hard
steel, with blunt ends that are meant to fit snugly into the screw's socket, bent in an
"L" shape with unequal arms. The tool is usually held and twisted by the long arm,
creating a large torque at the tip of the short arm. Reversing the tool lets the long arm
reach screws in hard-to-reach places.

Each key is meant to be used with screws of a specific socket size, with rather tight
tolerances; so the tool is commonly sold in kits that include half a dozen or more keys
of different sizes. Usually the length of the key increases with the size of the socket,
but not necessarily in direct proportion.

Figure 1. 9; Allan keys photo credits; en.m.wikipedia.org.

Pliers
Pliers are a hand tool used to hold objects firmly. They are also useful in bending and
compressing a wide range of materials.

Figure 1. 10 ; pliers. Photo credits; en.m.wikipedia.org.

Screw drivers.
It is tool, manual or powered used for screwing and unscrewing skews. Small screw
driver is a good size for adjusting bobbin tensions on machines. Chunky screw is ideal
for loosening needle plate screws, presser foot thumb screws.

Figure 1. 11; screw drivers. Photo credits; www.kleintools.com

Sewing thread
Wide varieties of sewing thread are available in the market. It is very important to
select the correct sewing thread for the fabric. They should share the same
characteristic as they will be laundered, ironed in the garment and thus, will stretch
and shrink together. A long staple thread is smoother and creates less lint in the
sewing machine. Made of short staples, the thread is uneven in texture and the result
is less than perfect stitching. A strong thread is good for construction, especially on
fabrics of natural fiber. Mercerized cotton has been treated to be smoother and
straighter with less fuzz than other cotton threads. Polyester thread has a high sheen
and is abrasion-resistant. Silk thread is strong and lustrous. This thread is used for
construction and stitched details such as buttonholes and top stitching. Always select
a thread according to the type of fabric being used. Use synthetic threads with man-
made fibers and mercerized cotton or silk thread with cotton or linen. Woolen fabrics
should be sewn with silk or synthetic threads as they have stretching capacity with the
fabric. Select a thread which is one shade darker than your fabric because when
worked on a garment, a thread appears lighter. The higher the number on the label of
a thread, the finer it is. When stitched, the thread should be well set into the fabric to
give a firm long-lasting seam. If the thread is too heavy for the fabric, it will remain
on the surface and tear out quickly, reducing the durability of your garment.

Sewing machine oil

It is a lubricant specifically made for sewing machine parts. The use of sewing
machine oil lessens the friction between the machine parts, keeping them grinding on
one another and wearing down.it keeps the machine running smoothly and quietly and
helps to prolong the machine life.

Brushes
This are small tools that are used to fluffs and dust from the inside part of a sewing
machine.

SETTING THE SEWING MACHINE

There are some key steps that need to be kept in mind for the preparation and
operation of the sewing machine.
Preparation of a single needle sewing machine
Before starting the operation process in a single needle sewing machine, an Operator
should be aware of every aspect relating to the sewing machine. This includes the
problems one may be faced with while working too, so that they may be rectified by
the Operator or can be reported to one’s supervisor. The steps for preparing a sewing
machine for stitching are listed below.
(a) Connect the machine to the power supply
(b) Placement of foot control
(c) Adjust the presser foot
(d) Wind the bobbin
(e) Select the correct needle and thread for sewing
(f) Fix the needle into needle bar
(g) Set the bobbin and bobbin case in the machine
(h) Thread the machine
(i) Adjust the thread tension
(j) Adjust the stitch length
(k) Check the stitch formation
(l) Check the reverse stitching lever

Threading the Bobbin and Needle

1. Wind the bobbin.
 Disconnect the movement of the needle by loosening the stop motion
screw which is found on the balance wheel.
  To wind the bobbin with the thread, place the bobbin spool on the
bobbin winder fitted on the top.
 Wrap the thread from the reel placed in the thread spool around the
bobbin.
 Press the treadle/foot control or turn the hand wheel to start winding.
 The winding in the bobbin should be uniform.
 Once the bobbin is sufficiently filled with thread, stop winding and

remove the bobbin.

2. Threading the bobbin. Once the bobbin is threaded, you will need to load it
into the bobbin case below your needle.
 Place the bobbin into the bobbin case
 Pull thread through the slit and under the tension spring .when thread is
pulled through the slit downwards from left to right the bobbin runs
clockwise.
 Place the bobbin casein the shuttle with the hook pointing upwards.
 Press it in until the hook is clicked in position.
3. Thread the top parts of your machine. After your bobbin is in place, you will
need to guide your thread through the top area of your machine. The position of
thread guides varies according to different machines but basically the threading is the
same. To do this;
 Place the thread on the larger spool pin located on the top of your machine.
 The thread from the spool pin is taken through a guide to the tension.
 It is passed between the tension disk and then to the thread take up lever.
 It is then pulled through the guide to the needle.
 The needle is threaded from the direction of the last guide according to the
machine instructions.
Bringing the bobbin thread up.
 Hold the needle thread with one hand
 Turn the balance wheel gently with the other hand to lower the needle. The
needle thread picks up bobbin thread in form of a loop
 Pull the looped thread out so that the two threads are on top
 Put both threads to the back of the machine before starting to machine
Operating the sewing machine
The following are the steps for operating a single needle sewing machine.
(a) Sew on the fabric
1. Raise the presser foot and then turn the flywheel so that the take-up lever is at its
highest level.
2. Pull the upper and lower threads straight back side under the presser foot to avoid
them from knotting at the beginning of the stitching line.
3. Place the fabric to be stitched under the presser foot, allowing the seam allowance
to the right side of the needle and the rest of the fabric to the left.
4. Turn the flywheel until the needle point enters the fabric at the exact beginning
point.
5. Lower the presser foot and then start the machine slowly, simultaneously guiding
the fabric gently with the hand.
6. To check stitch length and proper tension, first stitch on a scrap, that is rough cloth.
Finalize it and then stitch on the final material.
7. Gradually, increase the speed of the sewing machine for stitching.
8. The fabric will move forward and the stitch will be formed continuously.
9. before the end of the stitching line, stitch slowly with the right hand on the flywheel
and left handon the fabric that is being worked on (while using hand machine). Stop
the machine in time to not sew beyond the fabric.
10. Take up the presser foot, then pull the material straight back with threads under
the presser foot to avoid bending of the needle.
11. Cut the threads using the thread cutter or scissors.

Precaution
1. Do not pull the material/fabric forward or backward, but hold the two layers
slightly tight and firm at the back and front of the presser foot.
2. Keep the take-up lever at its highest point to avoid unthreading the needle when
beginning to stitch again.
3. Leave about two to four inches of thread, extending from the machine to prevent
unthreading.

STITCHING TECHNIQUES
There are various stitching techniques used during sewing the include;
 Pivoting
  Straight stitching
 Curving
 Basting
Pivoting
It involves changing stitching direction at a corner or another angled point in the
stitching line.
Procedure;
 To pivot stop with the needle down in the fabric when you arrive at the pivot
point.
 Lift the presser foot then rotate the fabric to the new stitching position, lower
the presser foot.

STRAIGHTSTITCH
Thisstitchistheoneusedmosttomakemostseamsandhems. Use a short
stitch length for sewing seams on lightweight fabrics, medium stitch
length for general sewing, and long stitch length for basting and
making ruffles (use the stitch-length selector dial or lever to alter the
length).

Basting
Long stitches frequently used to hold multiple layers of fabric together or in position
temporary during construction and can be easily removed later. Basting can be
machine by simply setting the machine to its longest stitch length.
Curving
In stitching through a curved/round edge one needs to guide the fabric through the
curve smoothly.

Fastening the thread ends

It is essential to fasten the threads at the ends of the stitching lines which are not to be
crossed later (for example, points of darts). This can be done in three ways;
Reverse stitching
Stitch till the termination point with the needle in the fabric. Now carry out reverse
stitching, and then cut the threads.
Pivoting
Stitch till the termination point with the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot and
stitch back a small distance along the seam. Cut the threads.
Tying
After you have reached the end of the stitching line, pull the fabric back and cut the
threads, leaving a length of about two to four inches extending from the fabric. Pick
the last stitch with a pin or needle point so that both the thread ends come to the
wrong side of the fabric, and then tie a double knot
 1.2.2.4 Learning Activities
TASK 1

Practice operating the sewing machine in the practical lab and prepare a sample of size
(10”x10”) of the different stitch formations.

 Correct stitch, or a stitch when the upper tension is too tight and too loose.
 Make stitches showing straight, curved, zigzag and pivoting.

Attach samples in your practical file.

1.2.2.5 Self-Assessment.
1. Speed of sewing machine can be controlled by the?
2. Check that the bobbin turns _________________ when the thread is pulled.
3. When the reverse stitching lever is pushed, the cloth feed direction for sewing will be?
4. What are the steps of threading the sewing machine?
5. Discuss the following processes as used operating a sewing machine;
(a) Placement of foot control
(b) Adjusting the stitch length
6. Discuss about adjusting the pressure of the presser foot.
7. As a sewing machine operator how would you carry out the process of winding of bobbin and
its setting in the machine?
8. Describe the operating procedure of a sewing machine and the precautions while sewing.

1.2.2.6 Tools, Equipment, Supplies and Materials

Assorted scissors, Tape measure, Seam ripper, Tailors chalk, assorted needles, Assorted fabrics,
Assorted PPE items,
1.2.2.7 References
1. Job Role (2019) Sewing Machine Operators. Publication Division by the
Secretary, National Council of Educational Research and Training.
2. Alison Smith (2009) The Sewing Book. 1st edition Publication New York.
3. Martha Stewart’s (2010) Encyclopedia of sewing and fabric crafts.1st edition.
CrownPublishingGroup,adivisionof RandomHouse,Inc.,NewYork.
4. Singer Sewing Company (2009) The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing. 1st
edition, Creative Publications International.
5. Kenya institute of education (1988) home science form 2. Kenya literature bureau
6. Grace m, Margaret n, martin k, Eileen n (2015) fashion design and garment
making basic level. The Jomo Kenyatta foundation.
7. Chestofbooks .com
8. Cholla.mmto.org/sewing/operation
9. https://clothingindustryblogpost.com

SELF-ASSESSMENT ANSWERS
1. Speed of sewing machine can be controlled by the? Foot control
2. Check that the bobbin turns _clockwise_ when the thread is pulled.
3. When the reverse stitching lever is pushed, the cloth feed direction for sewing will be?
Backwards
4. What are the steps of threading the sewing machine?
 Place the thread on the larger spool pin located on the top of your machine.
 The thread from the spool pin is taken through a guide to the tension.
 It is passed between the tension disk and then to the thread take up lever.
 It is then pulled through the guide to the needle.
  The needle is threaded from the direction of the last guide according to the machine
instructions.

5. Discuss the following processes as used operating a sewing machine;

(a) Placement of foot control
The speed of the sewing machine can be controlled by the foot control. The stronger it is
pressed on the control, the faster the machine runs.
(b) Adjusting the stitch length
A stitch length regulator/dial is used to adjust the stitch length and get the desired length.
The stitch length regulator/dial controls the distance that the feed dogs move the fabric to
the back of the machine to make a single stitch. The bigger number on the stitch length dial
produces a long stitch, and the smaller number produces a smaller stitch. To change the
stitch length, dial from a larger setting to a smaller setting, it is simpler to turn the dial.
6. Discuss about adjusting the pressure of the presser foot.
It is important for a Sewing Machine Operator to have complete knowledge of the required
pressure on the material, and method of adjusting the pressure when needed. The pressure
of the presser foot is required to be adjusted as per the thickness or heaviness of the
fabric/material to be sewn. Heavy fabrics require more pressure than the lightweight
fabrics. The pressure should be heavy enough to prevent the fabric from rising with the
needle, and to enable the feed to move the fabric along evenly without side creeping. The
pressure of the presser foot can be adjusted by using the thumbscrew. To increase the
pressure, turn the thumbscrew clockwise or downward. To lighten the pressure, turn the
thumbscrew anticlockwise. When the pressure is appropriately applied correct stitches will
be formed
7. As a sewing machine operator how would you carry out the process of winding of bobbin and
its setting in the machine?
• Disconnect the movement of the needle by loosening the stop motion screw which is
found on the balance wheel.
• To wind the bobbin with the thread, place the bobbin spool on the bobbin winder
fitted on the top.
• Wrap the thread from the reel placed in the thread spool around the bobbin.
• Press the treadle/foot control or turn the hand wheel to start winding.
• The winding in the bobbin should be uniform.
Threading the bobbin.
• Place the bobbin into the bobbin case
• Pull thread through the slit and under the tension spring .when thread is pulled
through the slit downwards from left to right the bobbin runs clockwise.
• Place the bobbin casein the shuttle with the hook pointing upwards.
• Press it in until the hook is clicked in position.
8. Describe the operating procedure of a sewing machine and the precautions while sewing.
 Raise the presser foot and then turn the flywheel so that the take-up lever is at its
highest level.
 Pull the upper and lower threads straight back side under the presser foot to avoid
them from knotting at the beginning of the stitching line.
 Place the fabric to be stitched under the presser foot, allowing the seam allowance to
the right side of the needle and the rest of the fabric to the left.
 Turn the flywheel until the needle point enters the fabric at the exact beginning
point.
 Lower the presser foot and then start the machine slowly, simultaneously guiding
the fabric gently with the hand.
 To check stitch length and proper tension, first stitch on a scrap, that is rough cloth.
Finalize it and then stitch on the final material.
 Gradually, increase the speed of the sewing machine for stitching.
 The fabric will move forward and the stitch will be formed continuously.
 Before the end of the stitching line, stitch slowly with the right hand on the flywheel
and left handon the fabric that is being worked on (while using hand machine). Stop
the machine in time to not sew beyond the fabric.
 Take up the presser foot, then pull the material straight back with threads under
the presser foot to avoid bending of the needle.
 Cut the threads using the thread cutter or scissors.

Precautions
 Do not pull the material/fabric forward or backward, but hold the two layers
slightly tight and firm at the back and front of the presser foot.
 Keep the take-up lever at its highest point to avoid unthreading the needle when
beginning to stitch again.
 Leave about two to four inches of thread, extending from the machine to prevent
unthreading.
1.2.3 Learning Outcome 3 .Troubleshoot the Sewing Machine

1.2.3.1 Introduction to the learning outcome

Trouble shooting involves observing the faults experienced during sewing (as result of
the error made during threading, winding of the bobbin, tension adjustment and needle
insertion) and identifying possible remedies and applying them in order to restore normal
machine operations.

1.2.3.2 Performance Standard

3.1 Sewing machine faults are identified based on sewing machine operations.
3.2 Remedies are applied based on the identified sewing machine faults.
3.3 Normal sewing machine operation is restored as per standard operating procedures.
1.2.3.3 Information Sheet.
Common sewing machine faults and their remedies
There are various types of sewing problems or faults which arise during sewing. They include;
1. Skipped stitches,
2. Stitches looping,
3. Fabric puckering,
4. Variable stitch density,
5. Seam puckering,
6. Bobbin thread breakage,
7. Needle thread breakage,
8. Thread fusing when sewing machine stops.
9. Needle breaking.
10. Fabric not feeding.
All the above sewing faults have explained in the below with their causes and remedies:

1. Skipped stitches:
 SL
No. Causes Remedies
01 Needle too fine for the thread Use correct size of the needle
Irregular thread tension on upper or lower The tension of thread should be
02 loop. adjusted.
03 Due to needle bent/blunt Needle should be changed.
04 Work pulled when machining Do not pull the fabric when stitching
05 Needle wrongly inserted Insert needle correctly
06 Needle too long or short. Set the needle correctly
2 stitches looping

SL No. Causes Remedies

01 Incorrect threading Thread correctly
02 Upper or lower tension too lose Use the correct tension
03 Two weights of thread used Use similar thread weight
Better quality threads must be used
04 If sewing threads are not lubricated. here.
3 .fabric puckering

SL No. Causes Remedies

01 Needle too coarse for the fabric Use correct needle
Use correct size of stitches
Stitches too long in case of very fine For sheer fabrics use tissue underneath
02 fabrics the work
Incorrect adjustment of needle and Needle size and thread size should be
03 thread size. changed.
04 Due to defected motion of feed dog Feed dog motion should be adjusted
If fabrics not controlled properly in the Accurate pressure of pressure foot
05 feed mechanism. should be adjusted.
4. Variable stitch density:
 SL No. Causes Remedies
The position of thread guide should be
Incorrect unwinding of thread form 2.5 times higher than the position
01 package during sewing. of thread package.
Twisting of needle thread in the bottom Foam pad should use to the bottom of
02 of thread package. thread package.
Correct threading of sewing thread
03 Twisting of thread in thread guide. during sewing.
Tension of thread should be less or use
04 Excessive tension of thread. of higher strength threads.
05 Using of broken check spring. Check spring should be changed.
Finer threads should be used or to be
06 Fraying of thread in the needle. used heavy needle.
Becoming more heated of sewing Needle lubricant and needle cooler
07 thread. should be used.
Lubricant should be available and test
08 Becoming more heated of hook. the distance between needle and hook.
09 Using of low quality sewing thread. Sewing thread should be changed.
5. Seam puckering:

SL No. Causes Remedies

Bobbin tension should be kept as low as
01 Higher thread tension. possible.
Proper thread balance should be ensured
02 Improper thread balance. between top and bottom thread.
Have to maintain tension guides
03 Incorrect thread types. properly.
6. Bobbin thread breakage:

SL No. Causes Remedies

01 Incorrect winding of threads on to the Proper winding of threads on to the
 bobbin. bobbin.
Excessive tension to the The tension should be adjusted to the
02 bobbin threads. bobbin threads.
If the edges bobbin case, looper eye and
03 so on are more sharpened. The edges should be smooth.
04 Incorrect fitting of bobbin case. Test the size and types of bobbin.
7. Needle thread breakage:

SL No. Causes Remedies

Incorrect winding of threads on to the Proper winding of threads on to the
01 bobbin. bobbin.
The tension should be adjusted to the
02 Excessive tension to the bobbin threads. bobbin threads.
If the edges bobbin case, looper eye and
03 so on are more sharpened. The edges should be smooth.
04 Incorrect fitting of bobbin case. Test the size and types of bobbin.

8. Thread fusing when sewing machine stops:

SL No. Causes Remedies

01 Faulty sewing thread. Should be used better quality thread.
Densely woven fabric which is poorly
02 finished. Should be improved fabric finishing.
Damaged needle after sewing thread
03 breakage. Should be changed the needle.
9. Needle breaking

s/n causes Remedies

1. Needle too fine for the fabric Choose correct size for the fabric
 2. Needle not inserted correctly Correct insertion of needle

3. Pressure foot incorrectly inserted Correct pressure foot insertion

4. Needle is bent Use straight needle

5. Machining over pins Remove pins from work before machining

10. Fabric not feeding

s/n causes remedies

1 Feed dog of incorrectly set Correct feed dog setting

2 Stitch length regulator turned to 0 in Adjust stitch regulator to desired stitch

some machines.

3 Pressure foot or feed dog bend Replace pressure foot or feed dog

4 Blunt feed dog Replace feed dog

Table 5; trouble shooting

1.2.3.3 Sewing machine troubleshooting tools and supplies

There are various tools required during trouble shooting. These tools include but not limited to;
 Allan keys
 Pliers
 Screw drivers
 Assorted sewing machine needles
 Sewing threads
 Machine oil
 Brushes.
  Fabric scraps.
1.2.3.4 Learning Activities
PRACTICAL
TASK 1; field trip

Visit a nearby sewing machine repair and maintenance shop

Materials Required

 Notebook
 Pen
 Camera (if available/mobile phone with camera)
 Prepare a report of the field visit.

Objectives/aim Indicator

Identify the various troubleshooting tools  Allan keys

and equipments.  Pliers
 Screw drivers
 Assorted sewing machine needles
 Sewing threads
 Machine oil
 Brushes.
 Fabric scraps.
Observe the process of fault identification  Possible faults
and application of remedies.  Possible remedies

various safety measure  What are the firefighting equipment

available?

 What are the safety precautions put in place

to prevent accidents

Table 6; field trip.

 1.2.3.5 Self-Assessment
1. Match the following faults with their remedies
Poor thread quality Remove bobbin and bobbin case
Tensions improperly set Replace needle
Dirt lint or thread in bobbin case Replace poor thread
Blunt and bent needles Adjust tension
2. What are the reasons that can cause thread breaking while stitching?

3. Why does one get occasional skipped stitches while stitching?

4. As a sewing machine operator you encounter the following faults. What are some of the
possible causes and possible remedies?
(a) Excessive noise while stitching.
(b) Needle breaking.
(c) Fabric puckering.

1.2.3.6 Tools, Equipment, Supplies and Materials

stationery, sewing machines, assorted fabrics, assorted scissors, assorted screwdrivers, assorted
machine needles, pliers, tape measure, seam ripper, thimble, assorted threads, assorted PPE
items.
1.2.3.7 References
1. Job Role (2019) Sewing Machine Operators. Publication Division by the Secretary, National
Council of Educational Research and Training.
2. Alison Smith (2009) The Sewing Book. 1st edition Publication New York.
3. Martha Stewart’s (2010) Encyclopedia of sewing and fabric crafts.1st edition.
CrownPublishingGroup,adivisionof RandomHouse,Inc.,NewYork.
4. Singer Sewing Company (2009) The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing. 1st edition, Creative
Publications International.

5. Marthastewart.com
SELF-ASSESSMENT ANSWERS
1. Match the following faults with their remedies
Poor thread quality Remove bobbin and bobbin case
Tensions improperly set Replace needle
Dirt lint or thread in bobbin case Replace poor thread
Blunt and bent needles Adjust tension
2. What are the reasons that can cause thread breaking while stitching?
 Low quality of thread
 Blunt needle
 Tension disc too tight

3. Why does one get occasional skipped stitches while stitching?

 Needle too fine for the thread

 Irregular thread tension on upper or lower loop.
 Due to needle bent/blunt
 Work pulled when machining
 Needle wrongly inserted
 Needle too long or short.

4. As a sewing machine operator you encounter the following faults. What are some of the
possible causes and possible remedies?
(a) Excessive noise while stitching
Possible causes
(i) Dust has accumulated in the feed dog.
(ii) Lint is in the hook and shuttle area.
(iii) The thread is caught in the shuttle.
Corrective action
(i) Clean the machine and remove the lint.
(ii) Disassemble the shuttle case and clean it.
 (iii) Oil the machine.

(b) Needle break

Possible causes
i. A thin needle was used for sewing a heavy weight material.
ii. The needle has not been fully inserted/pushed into the needle bar.
iii. The screw of the needle clamp is loose.
iv. The presser foot is not the correct one.
v. The presser foot is loose.
vi. Pulling of fabric
Corrective action
i. Use the correct size of the needle.
ii. Properly insert/push the needle in the needle bar.
iii. Securely tighten the needle clamp screw.
iv. Use correct presser foot.
v. Reset the presser foot.
vi. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
(c) Fabric puckering

Possible causes

i. The stitch length is too long for the material.

ii. The needle point is blunt.
iii. Incorrect thread tension
iv. Light pressure on the presser foot
v. The fabric is too sheer or soft.
vi. Using two different sizes or kinds of upper and lower threads

Corrective action

i. Decrease the stitch length.

ii. Replace with a needle of good condition.
iii. Reset the thread tension.
iv. Increase pressure on the presser foot.
v. Use an underlay of tissue paper/backing.
vi. The upper thread and bobbin thread should be of the same size and kind.
1.2.4 Learning Outcome 4. Service and Maintain the Sewing Machine

1.2.4.1 Introduction to the learning outcome

The service and maintenance of a sewing machine helps to improve its working. This consists
mainly of cleaning, oiling, and right handling, which contributes to good output, quality
production and safety of the workers. Care and maintenance is also necessary in order to operate
the machine smoothly and for its long term use.

1.2.4.2 Performance Standard

1. Sewing machine maintenance tools, supplies and equipment are identified based on
standard operating procedures.
2. Sewing machine maintenance tools, supplies and equipment are checked for
serviceability and sufficiency based on standard operating procedures.
3. Sewing machine service and maintenance requirements are obtained based on workplace
policy.
4. Machine service and maintenance is done as per standard

1.2.4.3 Information Sheet

Principles of machine servicing and maintenance
INTRODUCTION

Maintenance, repair, and operations (MRO) or maintenance, repair, and overhaul involve fixing
any sort of mechanical, plumbing or electrical device should it become out of order or broken. It
also includes performing routine actions which keep the device in working order or prevents
trouble from arising.

MRO may be defined as, "All actions which have the objective of retaining or restoring an item
in or to a state in which it can perform its required function. The actions include the combination
of all technical and corresponding administrative, managerial, and supervision actions.

OBJECTIVES
•Must be consistent with the goals of production (cost, delivery, safety).

•Must be comprehensive and include specific responsibilities.

PRINCIPLE OF MAINTENANCE

•To achieve product quality and customer satisfaction through adjusted and serviced equipment

•Maximize useful life of equipment

•Keep equipment safe and prevent hazards

•Minimize frequency and severity of interruptions

TYPES OF MAINTENANCE

Figure 1. 12; types of maintenance. Photo credits; blogspot.com

1. Breakdown maintenance
It means that people waits until equipment fails and repair it. Such a thing could be used when
the equipment failure does not significantly affect the operation or production or generate any
significant loss other than repair cost.

2. Preventive maintenance

It is a daily maintenance (cleaning, inspection, oiling and re-tightening), design to retain the
healthy condition of equipment and prevent failure through the prevention of deterioration,
periodic inspection or equipment condition diagnosis, to measure deterioration. It is further
divided into periodic maintenance and predictive maintenance. Just like human life is extended
by preventive medicine, the equipment service life can be prolonged by doing preventive
maintenance.

3. Periodic maintenance (Time based maintenance - TBM)

Time based maintenance consists of periodically inspecting, servicing and cleaning equipment
and replacing parts to prevent sudden failure and process problems.

4. Predictive maintenance

This is a method in which the service life of important part is predicted based on inspection or
diagnosis, in order to use the parts to the limit of their service life. Compared to periodic
maintenance, predictive maintenance is condition based maintenance. It manages trend values,
by measuring and analyzing data about deterioration and employs a surveillance system,
designed to monitor conditions through an on-line system.

5. Corrective maintenance
It improves equipment and its components so that preventive maintenance can be carried out
reliably. Equipment with design weakness must be redesigned to improve reliability or
improving maintainability.

6. Maintenance prevention

It indicates the design of new equipment. Weakness of current machines are sufficiently studied
on site information leading to failure prevention, easier maintenance and prevents of defects,
safety and ease of manufacturing) and are incorporated before commissioning a new equipment.

OILING THE SEWING MACHINE

Always keep your sewing machine well oiled. All dust should be removed from the exposed
parts at least once every week, and the important parts of the machine should be oiled. Use good
quality sewing machine oil. Always remove lint deposits, dust and thread bits before oiling any
part of the machine. In order to operate the machine smoothly, it is essential to oil it repeatedly.
Material required
1. Sewing machine manual
2. Sewing machine oil
3. Soft disposable cloth
Points to remember while oiling the sewing machine
 Before oiling, ensure that the sewing machine is turned off.
 Oil the machine using the directions given in the machine manual. Inspect the condition
of all visible parts of the machine every time you oil it.
 If a manual is not available, oil the machine as per the directions of the teacher/instructor
as per the required frequency.
 Locate oil holes of the sewing machine. They are mostly identified by arrows, or red or
yellow paint. Put one to two drops of oil into each hole. Too much oil will clog the
 machine. Turn the hand wheel manually so that the oil will work its way between the
parts.
 Wipe off all dust and excess oil from the machine or table; clean up any spilled oil
immediately.
 Sew on a few fabric scraps to remove any excess oil.
 Wash hands after oiling the machine.
 Excess oil is a major problem that can spoil and damage the fabric.

Method for oiling of the sewing machine

It is necessary to oil the sewing machine periodically. If the machine is used every day, oil it
once a week. If you do not use it very regularly, then oiling once a month is sufficient. The
frequency of oiling depends on its use, and sometimes on the material sewn. To oil thoroughly,
remove the upper thread, needle plate, slide plate, face plate, bobbin case, and needle and presser
foot. Put sewing machine oil in all oil holes and joints where one part rubs against another. One
or two drops of oil are enough for each point. While oiling, turn the fly wheel back and forth to
facilitate the flow of the oil to different moving parts. It is necessary to oil the shuttle case. After
oiling the points on the head of the machine, tilt the machine head back to oil the points on the
underside. On a treadle machine, the belt will have to be released before tilting the machine head
back. Remember to oil the pivots of the treadle. When the machine has been completely oiled,
wipe away excess oil and run it slowly for 2–3 minutes on a waste piece of material. Before you
close the machine, place a scrap of fabric under the presser foot and lower the needle. The fabric
will absorb the excess oil that might drain down through the machine and will prevent the
formation of oil spots on your work the next time the machine is used.
If the sewing machine becomes gummed and dirty with oil, put a drop of kerosene or petrol in
each oil hole and at joints, and run it rapidly for 1–2 minutes. Then wipe off the oil that oozes out
with a soft cloth and re-oil the machine. It will require a second oiling within few hours after this
treatment.
Check the machine instruction booklet/manual to determine the types of oil lubricant to use and
where to use them. Do not oil the tension discs, the hand wheel release or the belts and rubber
rings in any machine.
Run the machine so the oil would be distributed into all the bearings. Use oil freely because all
oil has been removed in the cleaning process. For later oiling, one drop of oil on each bearing
and in each oil hole is enough.
After oiling the sewing machine, wipe away the excess oil and reassemble the machine. The oil
used should be of good quality, preferably regular machine oil, as otherwise it may clog the
bearings. Care should be taken to see that too much oil is not deposited in, as it is liable to spoil
the cloth being stitched. It is advisable to do a few stitches on a waste piece of cloth until clear
stitches are obtained.

SERVICING THE SEWING MACHINE

While servicing the machine, pay attention to the various parts of the machine, the machine table
or stand, the work station, and even your hands, to avoid soiling the material being sewn, prevent
accidents and damage to the machine. These directions mainly hold true for the lockstitch
machine, but they can easily be adapted to other machine types also. The machine should always
be kept covered when not in use to protect from dirt and dust. Before attempting to clean the
machine, it is wise to remove the needle to avoid the danger of sewing into the finger during the
cleaning process.
Material required for cleaning
1. Flat paintbrush (½" to ¾" wide)
2. Cleaning solvent or fluid
3. Soft disposable cloth
4. Screwdriver
5. Sewing machine manual
6. Small handy vacuum cleaner
Points to be considered while cleaning.
1. Before cleaning any machine, turn it off.
2. Open the slide plate and remove the bobbin case. Then remove the throat plate. Whenever
it is required, remove the face plate from the left end of the head.
3. Any lint, dust, or loose threads in the area around the feed dog and rotary hook, shuttle
may be brushed or blown away. Do not use anything hard, such as a screwdriver or scissors
points, to remove the lint. Instead, carefully use a pointed instrument like a needle or pointed
tweezers/plucker to pick out bits of thread and lint that cannot be brushed out.
4. Turn the hand wheel manually to expose any areas that might have been hidden initially.
Brush again.
5. Carefully tilt the machine head back until the head rests on the post on the back of the
table.
6. Brush out any lint, dust, or threads from the lower part of the machine.
7. Use a soft, thin and clean cloth to remove any lint on the machine parts.
8. Unscrew all plates and screws and the bobbin case.
9. Check the needle to be sure it is clean and the eye is not clogged.
10. Replace the needle, if necessary.
11. Wipe away any excess oil or dust on the head, machine bed, motor, table, and stand.
12. If there is lint between the tension discs and in the thread guides, use thread to floss the
tension discs and remove any lint.
13. If you have oiled the machine, sew on few scraps to remove any excess oil.
14. Wash hands after cleaning and oiling the machine.
15. After completing the work, put a piece of fabric under the foot, lower the presser foot,
cover the machine, and pick up any trash.
16. For cleaning the machine, it is good to clean one Notes area at a time. Remove only those
parts that are detachable, and keep in mind the position and direction of each part that is
removed for cleaning. Keep the parts in order to make it easier to attach them.
17. When using a screwdriver, apply pressure on the screw, if a screw does not loosen easily.
Soak it in a good quality cleaning fluid available in the market for the sewing machine. Petrol
or kerosene can also be used as cleaning fluids. Then set the screwdriver in the slot to loosen
the screws if required.
18. Remove all the parts that is, the needle, presser foot, slide plate, throat plate, bobbin
case, and the face plate. Put them in the tray and soak in cleaning fluid.
19. Wrap the motor to protect it from oil and cleaning solvent. Ensure that the sewing
machine has been unplugged.
20. To clean the feed dog, remove the needle plate of the machine and brush off all lint
deposits and dirt sticking to different parts.
21. To clean the shuttle case, remove all the screws holding the shuttle case. Take out the
shuttle case and wipe its groove free of dirt, and thread bits.
 22. Sometimes loose threads wind around the pivots of the treadle and make the sewing
machine hard to run. Thread bits must be removed which are caught in the wheel along with
all lint and dust sticking to the treadle parts.
23. Use a cloth or small brush to clean near the needle and feed dog.
24. If the machine starts to run hard, it is an indication that dirt or lint is jammed inside a
bearing. In that case, remove the bobbin case to remove all lint and stray threads.
Continuously run the machine and flush it with the cleaning fluid until the dirt and gummed
oil are washed from the bearing.
25. The bobbin case can be removed from the sewing machine easily. Use a dry brush to
clean out all lint. Remove any thread that may be wound up around the hook shaft. In some
machines, the hook assembly can also be removed for complete cleaning.
26. Remove bobbin and bobbin case, and clean small thread particles from there.
27. Pull a piece of cloth soaked in the solvent, back and forth between the discs to clean it
from dust, lint or any other particles. Repeat with a dry cloth to make sure that no lint or
thread is caught between them. To remove any remaining dirt and oil, dip a cloth or brush in
a cleaning fluid and scrub all parts of machine that can be reached. Check the lower tension
of the bobbin case and the upper thread tension discs. Pull a thread under the bobbin to
remove dirt.
28. Clean the hand wheel, washer, and the shaft. Lubricate the shaft with two drops of
sewing machine oil and place a small amount of grease on all gears. Reassemble the hand
wheel and clutch.

After properly cleaning these areas, reassemble all the parts of the sewing machine and run it.
If reassembled correctly, it should run smoothly.

MAINTENANCE OF THE SEWING MACHINE

Most sewing machines encounter problems that can be traced to poor general maintenance or
neglect. But with some simple tools and just a few minutes daily, weekly, or monthly, depending
on how much our sewing machine is used, we can help keep our machine running smoothly.
Handling of sewing machine Safe handling procedure of sewing machine The safe handling
procedure of the sewing machine involves:
1. Setting up of the sewing machine
2. Adopting safety measures before starting sewing
3. Adopting safety measures during sewing

Setting up of sewing machine

(i) Position the machine on a hard-flat surface.
(ii) Select and install the needle securely into the needle bar.
(iii) Select the suitable thread according to the type of fabric to be used.
(iv) Wind the thread into the bobbin.
(v) Following the thread guide, thread the machine from the spool pin to the needle.
(vi) Set the machine of required stitch length.
(vii) Balance the thread tension on the sewing machine (adjust the upper tension in
relation to the lower tension).
Adopting safety measures before starting sewing
i. The sewing machine cord must be in good condition. Switch off the sewing machine
before threading the needle, and after every use, turn the machine off or unplug it.
ii. Ensure that there is enough light while using the sewing machine. Using a sewing
machine in poor lighting can lead to any accident or mis-happening.
iii. Keep the feet off the treadle when setting or threading the needle.
iv. (Use the hand wheel to move the needle to its highest position while the fabric is
placed for sewing.
v. One needs to hold the top and bottom loose thread ends before starting the machine.
Adopting safety measures during sewing
i. Practice on a scrap material to check against oil stains, etc.
ii. Notice the way the sewing machine sounds. If the sewing machine makes some abnormal
sounds or seems louder than usual, get it checked by a technical expert.
iii. Sew at a slow, steady pace and use a needle guard to protect the fingers.

1.2.4.4 Learning Activities

Activity 1; PRACTICAL
1. Visit the practical/sewing lab and practice the cleaning of the sewing machine and its different
parts as per the instructions manuals.

1.2.4.5 Self-Assessment
1. What is the principle of oiling the sewing machine?
2. As a sewing machine operator how do you take care of your sewing machine?
3. Excess oil is a major problem. Explain
4. What are the types of maintenance you can carry out on your sewing machines?

1.2.4.6 Tools, Equipment, Supplies and Materials,

Sewing machines, assorted fabrics, assorted scissors, assorted screw drivers, assorted machine
needles, pliers, tape measure, seam ripper, thimble, assorted threads, assorted PPE items,
brushes, cleaning solvent and machine oil.

1.2.4.7 References
1. Job Role (2019) Sewing Machine Operators. Publication Division by the Secretary,
National Council of Educational Research and Training.

2. Alison Smith (2009) The Sewing Book. 1st edition Publication New York.

3. Martha Stewart’s (2010) Encyclopedia of sewing and fabric crafts.1st edition.

CrownPublishingGroup,adivisionof RandomHouse,Inc.,NewYork.

4. Singer Sewing Company (2009) The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing. 1st edition,
Creative Publications International.

SELF-ASSESSMENT ANSWERS

1. What is the principle of oiling the sewing machine?

1. Before oiling, ensure that the sewing machine is turned off.
 2. Oil the machine using the directions given in the machine manual. Inspect the
condition of all visible parts of the machine every time you oil it.
3. If a manual is not available, oil the machine as per the directions of the
teacher/instructor as per the required frequency.
4. Locate oil holes of the sewing machine. They are mostly identified by arrows, or
red or yellow paint. Put one to two drops of oil into each hole. Too much oil will
clog the machine. Turn the hand wheel manually so that the oil will work its way
between the parts.
5. Wipe off all dust and excess oil from the machine or table; clean up any spilled oil
immediately.
6. Sew on a few fabric scraps to remove any excess oil.
7. Wash hands after oiling the machine.
8. Excess oil is a major problem that can spoil and damage the fabric. Method for
oiling of the sewing.
2. As a sewing machine operator how do you take care of your sewing machine?
 Dust before use.
 Use the sewing machine correctly
 Cover the machine when not in use.
 Clean and oil the machine with good oil regularly depending on how much it used.
 Get the machine serviced regularly by the manufacturer’s agent.
 Place a piece of cloth between the presser foot and the feed dog when machine is not
in use to soak up extra oil.
3. Excess oil is a major problem. Explain?
 It leads to staining of the fabric.
 It affect normal functioning of the machine
4. What are the types of maintenance you can carry out on your sewing machines?
Breakdown maintenance
It means that people waits until equipment fails and repair it. Such a thing could be used when
the equipment failure does not significantly affect the operation or production or generate any
significant loss other than repair cost.
Preventive maintenance
It is a daily maintenance (cleaning, inspection, oiling and re-tightening), design to retain the
healthy condition of equipment and prevent failure through the prevention of deterioration,
periodic inspection or equipment condition diagnosis, to measure deterioration. It is further
divided into periodic maintenance and predictive maintenance. Just like human life is extended
by preventive medicine, the equipment service life can be prolonged by doing preventive
maintenance.
Periodic maintenance (Time based maintenance - TBM)
Time based maintenance consists of periodically inspecting, servicing and cleaning equipment
and replacing parts to prevent sudden failure and process problems.

Predictive maintenance
This is a method in which the service life of important part is predicted based on inspection or
diagnosis, in order to use the parts to the limit of their service life. Compared to periodic
maintenance, predictive maintenance is condition based maintenance. It manages trend values,
by measuring and analyzing data about deterioration and employs a surveillance system,
designed to monitor conditions through an on-line system.

Corrective maintenance
It improves equipment and its components so that preventive maintenance can be carried out
reliably. Equipment with design weakness must be redesigned to improve reliability or
improving maintainability.
Maintenance prevention
It indicates the design of new equipment. Weakness of current machines are sufficiently studied
on site information leading to failure prevention, easier maintenance and prevents of defects,
safety and ease of manufacturing) and are incorporated before commissioning a new equipment.