Vivienne Westwood: The Icon Who
Dared to Disrupt
Vivienne Westwood was more than just a designer—she was a
cultural force. Renowned for her bold, rebellious approach to fashion,
she became the cornerstone of the punk movement in the 1970s,
forever changing the landscape of modern fashion. With her avant-
garde designs and commitment to challenging societal norms,
Westwood’s creations weren’t just about clothing—they were
statements.
Born in 1941 in England, Westwood’s journey to stardom began with her
partnership with Malcolm McLaren, the manager of the iconic punk band The Sex Pistols.
Together, they opened the infamous SEX shop in London, where Westwood crafted clothes that
were as controversial as the punk ethos itself. Her designs, featuring safety pins, tartan, and anti-
establishment slogans, became symbols of rebellion and individualism.
Westwood’s ability to merge the worlds of high fashion and subculture made her a unique figure
in the fashion world. Throughout her career, she effortlessly combined historical references, punk
aesthetics, and political activism into collections that provoked thought as much as they
impressed with their innovation. From corsetry to sustainable fashion, she reshaped what it
meant to be a designer, always staying true to her roots of defiance and creativity.
Westwood wasn’t just a trendsetter—she was an entrepreneur, using her brand to not only create
timeless, edgy designs but to advocate for environmental and political causes. Her clothing
became a canvas for her beliefs, with each collection challenging the status quo and encouraging
the world to rethink fashion, consumption, and activism.
Vivienne Westwood’s legacy is one of boldness, authenticity, and defiance. Her work continues
to inspire generations of designers, activists, and individuals seeking to make a statement
through what they wear. She wasn’t just dressing people—she was dressing a revolution.
Background
Born: April 8, 1941, in Glossop, Derbyshire, England.
Died: December 29, 2022.
Vivienne Westwood’s career started in a more unconventional way—she studied fashion
at the Harrow Art School and started her career as a schoolteacher before delving into
fashion. She began her journey in fashion in the late '60s by designing and making
clothes for the punk scene in London, particularly for the shop SEX, which she co-owned
with Malcolm McLaren, the manager of the iconic punk band The Sex Pistols.
Impact on Fashion
Punk Fashion: Westwood is widely regarded as one of
the founders of punk fashion. She was instrumental in
creating the anarchistic style that defined the punk
movement. Her bold use of safety pins, leather, tartan,
and spikes became synonymous with the punk aesthetic.
Androgynous and Subversive Designs: She often
played with gender norms and social structures in her
designs, making clothing that was as much about
challenging conventions as it was about fashion.
Westwood’s collections often juxtaposed historical
references with modern styles, mixing elements like
corsetry and Victorian silhouettes with streetwear influences and
contemporary cuts.
Political Activism: Westwood was known for her outspoken political views and used her
platform to promote activism. Her collections often featured political statements, and she
was deeply involved in environmental and human rights causes. Her clothing frequently
carried messages of resistance, such as "Climate Revolution" and "Buy Less, Choose
Wisely"—calling for more ethical and sustainable consumption.
Notable Moments
1971-1973: SEX Shop: Westwood, alongside
McLaren, opened the shop SEX on King’s Road in
London. The store was revolutionary, selling
radical, anti-establishment clothing that helped
shape the punk ethos.
1975: Pirate Collection: Westwood’s first
breakthrough as a designer came with her Pirate
collection, which was heavily influenced by
historical references and introduced her to a
wider audience.
1981: The 'Anglomania' Collection: This
collection explored British traditions and
heritage, blending elements of Victorian and
Edwardian fashion with modern sensibilities, and marked the beginning of Westwood's
rise to international fame.
1990s: Red Label: Westwood's Red Label was a
more accessible line compared to her high-end
collections, but it still retained her punk and avant-
garde sensibility.
1992: ‘Mini-Crini’ Collection: Known for reintroducing the crinoline (the structured
skirt worn in the 19th century) in her collections, this was another moment that
showcased her unique fusion of history with modern fashion.
Innovative Designs and Collaborations
Tartan and British Heritage: One of Westwood’s most
famous patterns was tartan, which she used to create a
distinctive look that was both British and rebellious.
Her designs often combined historical references with
bold, contemporary styles, making her work both
timeless and daring.
Corsets and Structure: Westwood is also credited with
modernizing the corset, turning it into both a provocative fashion statement and an
essential part of her designs. She revolutionized how women could wear and style
corsets, especially with her Savage Beauty collection.
Footwear: Westwood also made a mark in the footwear industry, designing iconic
shoes, like the platform boots and Pirate Boots, that captured the essence of punk
and rock 'n' roll.
Collaborations: Westwood collaborated with a wide range of brands over the
years, including Converse (with her Chucks designs) and Boxfresh. Her
partnership with Supreme brought high fashion into streetwear culture and is still
highly influential in today’s fashion landscape.
Legacy
Vivienne Westwood’s influence extends far beyond fashion
design. She was a pioneer of integrating political activism into
fashion and was always willing to break boundaries and
challenge norms. Her clothes were about more than just style
—they were about making a statement, whether about
politics, the environment, or society at large.
Her brand continues to be iconic, producing collections that maintain her rebellious and avant-
garde sensibilities while also evolving to meet the demands of the modern fashion world. She
was also a knight of the British Empire, honored in 2006 for her services to fashion and activism.
Vivienne Westwood’s contributions to fashion and culture are immeasurable. She transformed
how fashion could be a platform for social change, and her impact will be felt for generations.
Starting the Business: Vivienne Westwood co-founded her first store, SEX, in the 1970s
with her partner Malcolm McLaren, who was also the manager of The Sex Pistols. This
store became the epicenter of London’s punk movement, and through
it, Westwood began to gain recognition for her designs.
From Punk to High Fashion: Her early success led to the creation of
her own fashion label in 1981, and she quickly gained prominence
in the fashion world. She managed to balance avant-garde
design with wearable fashion, appealing to both the rebellious
youth and high society.
Building a Global Brand: Over the years, she expanded her
business, opening boutiques in major cities like London, Paris, New
York, and Tokyo. Her brand has been associated with high fashion, but
it also retained its subversive, anti-establishment roots. Her designs were
always about more than just clothing; they were about expressing values and
beliefs.
Innovation in Fashion Business
Revolutionizing Retail: Vivienne Westwood’s stores,
especially the original SEX shop and later her main boutiques, were not
just retail spaces—they were places where she showcased her brand's ethos. The stores
themselves became part of her fashion statement, reflecting her punk
influences and avant-garde aesthetic.
Creating a Niche: Westwood was one of the first designers to truly
embrace the idea of fashion as a form of activism, incorporating
political messages into her designs. She made sustainability and
environmental issues part of her business model, long before these
topics became mainstream in the industry. Her brand helped establish
the idea that fashion could be a platform for social change.
Successful Collaborations and Expansions
Collaborations: She teamed up with brands like Converse, Supreme,
and Boxfresh to expand her reach into different markets, including
streetwear. These collaborations helped her connect with younger audiences while
keeping her brand relevant.
Expanding Product Lines: While Vivienne Westwood is best known for fashion, she
also ventured into accessories, footwear, fragrances, and even home goods. This
diversified her revenue streams and grew the brand beyond just clothing.
Entrepreneurship and Activism
Political Influence: Westwood used
her entrepreneurial platform to speak
out on issues like climate change,
human rights, and social justice. Her
activism was embedded in her
designs, making her brand not just
a fashion business but also a
movement.
Sustainability: Vivienne
Westwood was an early advocate
for sustainable fashion. Her
business practices often included
a focus on ethical manufacturing
and environmentally conscious
materials. She encouraged
consumers to "Buy Less,
Choose Wisely," which
resonated with the growing
movement toward
sustainability in fashion.
Legacy as a Businesswoman
Vivienne Westwood’s entrepreneurial journey showed that fashion
could be both commercially successful and deeply meaningful. She didn’t just build a brand
based on her designs; she created a lasting legacy of challenging norms, pushing boundaries, and
making fashion a tool for activism.
She proved that being an entrepreneur in fashion doesn’t just mean designing clothes—it means
building a business that can evolve, inspire, and make a real-world impact. Her work exemplifies
how a successful brand can be founded on both artistic vision and a strong, personal philosophy.
Her entrepreneurial spirit lives on in her brand, which continues to thrive as an influential name
in global fashion.
Vivienne Westwood's journey as a businesswoman was marked by both immense success and
several challenges. Her career is an inspiring example of how perseverance, innovation, and
staying true to one’s artistic vision can turn setbacks into opportunities for growth. Here’s a
deeper look at the history of her business, its struggles, and how she overcame them.
The Early Days: The Punk Movement and ‘SEX’ Shop (1971-
1974)
Vivienne Westwood’s fashion journey began in the heart of
London’s rebellious punk scene. In the early 1970s, she
opened a shop called SEX on King’s Road, London,
with her then-partner Malcolm McLaren. The store was
controversial, selling sexually provocative and
politically charged clothing that catered to the punk
movement. This was a bold move—fashion wasn’t just
about looking good, it was about making a statement.
The shop became a cultural hub for the punk movement,
attracting musicians, artists, and youth seeking to challenge
the norms of the time. At SEX, Westwood and McLaren
famously sold clothes with safety pins, leather, and other materials
that symbolized the anti-establishment spirit of punk. The shop also played a pivotal role in
styling the Sex Pistols, the punk band that McLaren managed.
Setback: Despite its cultural influence, the SEX shop
didn’t last long. The shop was eventually closed down in
1974, largely because of its controversial nature and the
escalating tension between Westwood and McLaren.
However, the store was crucial in helping Westwood find
her voice in fashion. Although the shop closed, the punk
aesthetic she helped create would go on to be hugely
influential in the years to come.
The Birth of the Vivienne Westwood Brand (1981)
After the closure of SEX, Westwood continued to
experiment with fashion, and by 1981, she launched her
own brand. The Pirate collection was her breakthrough
moment in fashion, marking the start of her career as a
designer. It was based on historical references (pirates, 18th-century British fashion) and
showcased her signature subversive approach to design.
Setback: One of Westwood’s early struggles was financial instability. As a new designer, she
was operating in a highly competitive market. The fashion industry, particularly in London, was
not an easy place to break into, especially with her punk-inspired aesthetic, which was far from
mainstream at the time.
Coping with Setback: Despite the financial challenges, Westwood found success through sheer
determination and her unique point of view. She continued to build a reputation as a designer
who pushed the boundaries of fashion. She showcased her collections at London Fashion Week,
and though her designs were controversial, they began to garner attention from critics and
consumers alike.
Becoming a Global Brand (1980s-1990s)
By the mid-1980s, Vivienne Westwood had established
herself as a prominent figure in the fashion world. She
opened her first boutique in Covent Garden in 1981, and
her designs—though still avant-garde and rebellious—
began to gain wider acceptance. She became known for
combining high fashion with elements of punk and
historical references, creating a truly unique style that
resonated with both the counterculture and more traditional fashion crowds.
In the late 1980s and 1990s, she expanded her brand internationally, opening boutiques in Paris,
New York, and Tokyo. Her collections began to blend more accessible pieces with her high-end
couture offerings. She also introduced lines like Red Label, which brought her designs to a
broader audience.
Setback: While her brand grew, Westwood faced challenges in
balancing her ideals with the business side of fashion. As her
brand expanded internationally, maintaining the integrity of her
designs while dealing with corporate pressures, including
production costs, pricing strategies, and global distribution,
proved difficult.
Coping with Setback: Westwood was careful not to
compromise on her values. She continued to produce
collections that reflected her unique voice, often with a critical
perspective on consumerism and society. In the 1990s, she also
began exploring sustainability, recognizing the growing
demand for ethical fashion. She was ahead of the curve in terms
of environmental awareness and became a vocal advocate for sustainable practices within the
fashion industry.
Global Success and Financial Struggles (2000s)
Vivienne Westwood’s brand continued to
gain global recognition, especially in the
2000s. Celebrities like Kate Moss and Sarah
Jessica Parker helped bring her designs into
the mainstream. The Anglomania collection,
a celebration of British heritage, became one
of her most famous lines and further
cemented her status as a designer of cultural
significance.
However, the 2000s weren’t without their
financial setbacks. Westwood’s business
struggled with issues like cash flow, high production costs, and increasing competition in the
fashion market. Her brand had grown rapidly, but it wasn’t always easy to sustain that growth.
Setback: The financial strain was apparent, and Westwood faced criticism for her brand’s
perceived disconnect between its luxurious image and the realities of running a fashion empire.
Critics argued that she was sometimes too idealistic in her business approach, with an
unwillingness to compromise on quality, ethics, and political messaging, which made her brand
expensive and difficult to scale.
Coping with Setback: Westwood relied on her strong brand identity and her loyal customer base
to weather the storm. She continued to advocate for sustainability and ethical practices, ensuring
that her brand maintained its core values. To address financial challenges, Westwood diversified
her product range and focused on growing her online presence, which helped the brand reach a
global audience.
Later Years: Political Activism and Sustainability (2010s-2020s)
In her later years, Vivienne Westwood became even more vocal about political and
environmental issues. She advocated for climate change action, encouraging consumers to "Buy
Less, Choose Wisely" and promoting sustainability within the fashion industry. She also
incorporated eco-friendly materials and ethical labor practices into her collections.
While the brand remained successful, Vivienne Westwood faced the challenge of staying relevant
in a fast-changing fashion industry. Her commitment to sustainability and ethical production
sometimes put her at odds with mainstream fashion, which often prioritized speed and mass
production.
Setback: As a designer with a long history in the industry, Westwood also faced the challenge of
adapting to new consumer expectations, especially the growing importance of digital presence
and the shift toward fast fashion. Navigating this changing landscape proved difficult,
particularly as younger consumers demanded more affordable, eco-conscious, and trend-driven
options.
Coping with Setback: Westwood responded to these challenges by continuing to evolve her brand. She embraced
collaborations, worked on building a digital strategy, and remained steadfast in her commitment to environmental
issues, encouraging both her industry and her customers to take a stand against unsustainable practices.