ETHIOPIAN ES 3993:2021

STANDARD

First edition
[[-[[-202

Footwear - Men’s and women’s open and

closed shoes - Specification

ICS: 61.060
Published by Ethiopian Standards Agency
©ESA
 ES 3993:2021

Foreword

This Ethiopian Standard has been prepared under the direction of the Technical Committee for Footwear
(TC 178) and published by the Ethiopian Standards Agency (ESA).
In preparing this Ethiopian Standard reference has been made to the following:

ARS 1559: 2017 Footwear — Men's open shoes — Specification;

ARS 1560:2017 Footwear — Men's closed shoes — Specification ;
ARS1561:2017 Footwear — Women's open shoes — Specification;and
ARS 1562:2017 Footwear — Women's closed shoes — Specification; published by African Organization for
Standardization(ARSO).

Acknowledgement is made for the use of information from the above publication.

ii ©ESA
ETHIOPIAN STANDARD ES 3993:2021

Footwear — Men’s and women’s open and closed shoes —

Specification

1 Scope
This Ethiopia Standard specifies the requirements for men’s and women’s closed and open shoes which
includes short and boots shoes.

2 Applications
This standard applies to men’s and women’s closed and open shoes of all constructions and all types of
materials and designs.

3 Normative references
The following standards contain provisions, which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of
the Ethiopian standard. At the time of publication, the editions indicated were valid. All standards are
subject to revision, and parties to agreement based on the Ethiopian standards are encouraged to
investigate the possibility of applying the most recent editions of the Ethiopian standard indicated below.
Registers of currently valid standards are maintained in the Ethiopian Standards Agency.

ES ISO 19952, Footwear Vocabulary

ES ISO 2589, Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of thickness

ES ISO 3376, Leather - Physical and mechanical tests-Determination of tensile strength and percentage
tension

ES ISO 3377, Leather — Determination of tearing load

ES ISO 11640, Leather- Tests for colour fastness-Colour fastness to cycles of to-and-fro rubbing

ES ISO 11644, Leather — Test for adhesion of finish

ES ISO 3378, Leather-Determination of resistance to grain-Cracking and cracking index

ES 127, Yarns-determination of breaking load and elongation by the single strand method

ES 1188, Leather - Determination of chromium as chromic oxide

ES ISO 14268, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of water vapour permeability

ES ISO 5404, Leather — Physical test methods — Determination of water resistance of heavy leathers

©ESA 1
ES 3993:2021

ES ISO 12947-1, Textiles — Determination of the abrasion resistance of fabrics by the Martindale method
—Part 1: Martindale abrasion testing apparatus

ES ISO 4045, Leather - Chemical tests - Determination of PH

ES ISO 4048, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of matter soluble in dichloromethane and free
fatty acid content

ES ISO 4047, Leather - Determination of Sulphated total ash and sulphated water - insoluble ash

ES ISO 4098, Leather- Chemical tests- Determination of water-soluble matter, water-soluble inorganic
matter and water-soluble organic matter

ES CHS 248, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of dry heat resistance of leather

ES ISO 105 B02, Textiles - Tests for colour fastness -Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon
arc fading lamp test

ES ISO 15702, Leather — Tests for colour fastness —Colour fastness to machine washing

ES ISO 15703, Leather — Tests for colour fastness —Colour fastness to mild washing

ES ISO 22288, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of flex resistance by the vamp
flex method

ES ISO 868, Plastics and ebonite- Determination of indentation hardness by means of a durometer
(Shore hardness)

ES ISO 2781, rubber, vulcanized or thermoplastic – determination of density

ES ISO 22654, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Tensile strength and elongation

ES 5042, Standard test method for measuring rubber deterioration—cut growth using ross flexing
apparatus

ES ISO 20865, Footwear — test methods for outsoles -compression energy

ES ISO 20875, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Determination of split tear strength and
delamination resistance

ES ISO 20874, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Needle tear strength

ES ISO 13287, Personal protective equipment — Footwear — Test method for slip resistance

ES ISO 20871, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Abrasion resistance

ES 1189, Leather - Determination of volatile matter

ES ISO 17072-2, Leather — Chemical determination of metal content — Part 2: Total metal content

ES 1194, Leather Determination of bound organic substances and degree of tannage

ES ISO 22650, Footwear — Test methods for whole shoe— Heel attachment

2 ©ESA
 ES 3993:2021

ES ISO 4662, Rubber, vulcanized or thermoplastic -Determination of rebound resilience

ES ISO 22649, Footwear —Test methods for insoles and in socks — Water absorption and desorption

ES 3929, Methods of test for footwear and footwear materials-Part 4: Other components-

ES ISO 3781, Paper and board — Determination of tensile strength after immersion in water

ES ISO 17700, Footwear — Test methods for uppers, linings and in socks — Colour fastness to rubbing

ES ISO 17704, Footwear — Test methods for uppers, linings and in socks — Abrasion resistance

ES 3747, Footwear and footwear materials- Methods of test for – Breaking strength of shoe laces

ES ISO 22774, Footwear -Test methods for accessories: shoe laces — Abrasion resistance

ES ISO 105 E16, Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Part E16: Colour fastness to water spotting on
upholstery fabrics
ES 3436, Method for determination of slippage resistance of yarns in woven fabrics: seam method
ES 3993 Annex A, Rapid sole adhesion test – for complete footwear

ES 3993 Annex B, Whole Shoe Flexing Test

ES 3993 Annex C, water penetration test- whole shoe flexing test

ES ISO 17697, Footwear — Test methods for uppers, lining and in socks —Seam strength

ES ISO 17708, Footwear — Test methods for whole shoe — Upper sole adhesion

4 Definitions
For the purposes of this standard, the definitions given in ES ISO 19952 and the following definitions shall
apply:

4.1 pu coated leather

Leather with a coating of polyurethane.
4.2 pvc coated textiles
Textileswith a coating of polyvinylchloride.

4.3 synthetic materials

Materials made of PU, PVC and other synthetic materials which are used as natural leather substitute

4.4 open shoe

shoe with generic sandal design (see Annex D)

4.5 closed shoe

all types of shoe designs except sandals

©ESA 3
ES 3993:2021

5 Requirements
5.1 General requirements

The method of construction shall follow the principle applicable for that type. The sizing and fitting shall be
in accordance with ES ISO 9407.
5.2 Material requirements

5.2.1 Uppers

The upper characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 1.

5.2.2 Upper lining

The upper lining characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 2.
5.2.3 Bottom/sole

The bottom/sole characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 3.

5.2.4 Heel and top Piece

The heel and top piece characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 4.

5.2.5 Stiffener and toe Puff

The stiffener and toe puff characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 5.
5.2.6 Insole and sock

The insole and sock characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 6.

5.2.7 Laces

Each pair of lace-up shoes shall be provided with one pair of laces complying with requirements given in
Table 7

5.2.8 Whole shoe

The wholeshoe characteristics shall comply with the requirements given in Table 8.

Table 1 upper material characteristics and requirements

Materials and requirements

Leather / Pu textiles Pucoaste Pvc Synthetic
characteristic hide or coated d textiles coated materials Test method
skin leather textiles
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Thickness (mm), min 0.8 0.8 - 1 1 0.7 ES ISO 2589

Tensile strength (N/mm2),min 20 20 - 10 7.5 7.5 ESISO 3376

Elongation at break (%) 20-60 20-60 15 min 10-50 10-50 7-15 ESISO 3376
Tear strength (N), min. 55 55 - 28 28 35 ESISO 3377
Rub fastness (Grey
scale), min. ESISO 11640

4 ©ESA
 ES 3993:2021

a)dry 3 3 3 3 3 3
b)wet 3 3 3 3 3 3
Adhesion to finish, N min 1 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 1 ESISO 11644
Break pipeness (BP 3 4 4 4 4 4 ES ISO 3378
scale), max
Break load (N/mm), ,min - - 10 10 10 10 ES 127

ChromicOxide content % 3 3 - - - - ES 1188

max
Water vapour 1 1 2 2 1 0.8 ES ISO 14268
permeability mg/cm2h,
min
Water Resistance
a/Penetration time, min 30 30 - 30 30 30
min. ES ISO 5404
b/ Water absorption after 25 25 25 25 25
30 min. in % max.
Martindale abrasion
(revolution), min ES ISO
a) Dry 25600 25600 25600 25600 25600 25600 12947-1
b) wet 6400 6400 6400 6400 6400 6400
PH value max. 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 ES ISO 4045
PH difference, max 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 ES ISO 4045

Fat content, (% m/m) min. 3 3 - - - - ES ISO 4048

Total ash (%), max 9 9 - - - - ES ISO4047
Total water soluble, (%) 6 6 - - - - ES ISO 4098
max
Heat shrinkage /%/ max. 5 5 4 5 5 5 ES ISO17227

Light fastness, (blue wool 6 6 6 6 6 6 ES ISO 105

standards), min B02
Wash fastness, (Grey - - 4 4 4 - ES ISO
scale), min 15702, ES
ISO 15703
Vamp flexing - - - - -
a) Dry at one million No
cycles damage ES ISO 22288
b) Wet at 100kcycle No spue

Table 2 upper lining material characteristics and requirements

Materials and requirements

leather PVC Textile pu
characteristic Test method
1 2 3 4 5 6

©ESA
5
ES 3993:2021

Thickness (mm), min 0.6 0.3 - 0.3 ES ISO 2589

Tensile strength (N/mm2), min 10 5 8 5 ES ISO 3376

Elongation at break (%) min 30 - 7 - ES ISO 3376
Tear strength (N), min. 30 15 20 15 ES ISO 3377
Rub fastness (Grey scale), min. 4 4 4 4
a)dry 4 4 4 4 ES ISO 11640
b)wet
Break pipeness (BP scale), max 3 4 4 4 ES ISO 3378
Break load (N/mm), ,min - - 130 - ES 127

Chromic Oxide content % max 3.0 3.0 - - ES 1188

Water vapor permeability mg/cm2h 1 1 2 0.8 ES ISO 14268
min
Water Resistance
a/Penetration time, min min. 30 30 - 30 ES ISO 5404
b/ Water absorption after 30 min. in
% max. 25 25 25
Martindale abrasion (revolution), min
Dry 4000 Not worse
Wet 2000 Not worse Not Not than
than worse worse moderate
ES ISO 12947-1
moderate than than wear
wear moderate moderate
wear wear

PH value max. 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 ES ISO 4045

Fat content, (% m/m) min. 3 - - - ES ISO 4048
Total ash (%) max 9 - - - ES ISO4047
Total water soluble, (%) max 6 1 2 1 ES ISO 4098
Heat shrinkage /%/ max. 5 - - ES ISO17227

Light fastness, (blue wool 4 4 4 4 ES ISO 105 B02

standards), min

Table 3 Bottom/sole material characteristics and requirements

Materials and requirements

Vulcanized PVC PU TPR EVA/ Leather Resin
characteristic Rubber MCR rubber Test method
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Hardness /IRHD/ 60-85 50-85 45-90 45-80 30-55 - 85-96 ES ISO 868
Specific gravity 1.35 max 1.27 0.45- 1.1 0.65 0.9 min 1.55 ES ISO 2781
max 0.65 max max max
Tensile strength 6 8 6 5 2 - 5.5 ESISO 22654
(N/mm2)
Elongation at break (%)
min -
ESISO 22654
a/before ageing 300 250 250 250 150 120
b/after ageing 70-110 - 150 - - 70-110
Flex resistance with cycle No No No No No No
- ESISO16177
a/Bata belt flex at 50,000 damage damage damage damage damage damage

6 ©ESA
 ES 3993:2021

Materials and requirements

Vulcanized PVC PU TPR EVA/ Leather Resin
characteristic Rubber MCR rubber Test method
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
b/Benner wart flexing
4 and No
resistance at 30,000 cycle 4 and No
4 and No 4 and No
spontaneou spontaneou ES ISO 17707
spontaneous - spontaneous
max crack crack - -
crack crack

Compression set % 25 25 25 25 35 25 25 ES ISO20865

,max
Tear strength (N/mm),
min
a/density ≤0.9g/cm3 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 ESISO 20875
b/density >0.9g/cm3 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0
Stitch/needle tear 35 35 35 35 35 35 35 ES ISO
strength (N/mm) min 20874

Slip resistance 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

/coefficient of friction/ ES ISO13287
min
Abrasion loss /mm3/, 300 150 300 200 500 300 150 ES ISO20871
max
Volatility (%) max - - - - - 2 - ES 1189
Lead pb /ppm/. Max 300 200 300 300 300 300 300 ESISO17072
-2
Total ash /%/ max - - - - 3 - ES ISO4047
Total water soluble /%/ - - - - - 21 - ES ISO 4098
max
pH value, min. - - - - - 3.5 3.5 ES ISO 4045

pH difference, max - - - - - 0.7 0.7 ES ISO 4045

Heat shrinkage /%/ max. 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ES ISO17227

Degree of tannage, min - - - - - 60 - ES 1194

Grain cracking on - - - - - No - ES ISO 3378
mandrel 3 crack
Key
EVA-ENTHYL VINYL ACETATE. MCR- MICRO CELLULAR RUBBER. TPR- Thermoplastic rubber, PU-
polyurethane
PVC-Polyvinyl chloride

Table 4 Heel and top piece material characteristics and requirements

Materials and requirements

Top piece Heel
characteristic Rubber Leather PVC rubber PVC TPR Test method
Hardness /IRHD/ 88-98 - 88-98 65-75 70- 60 min ES ISO 868
80
Specific gravity, max 1.55 0.9 1.3 1.4 1.3 1.1 ES ISO 2781
Tensile strength (N/mm2) 6.0 20 17 15 10 7.0 ESISO 22654

©ESA
7
ES 3993:2021

Materials and requirements

Top piece Heel
characteristic Rubber Leather PVC rubber PVC TPR Test method
Elongation at break (%) min -
a/before ageing 120 - 250 120 250 120 ESISO 22654
b/after ageing 70-110 - 70-110 - 70-110

Flex resistance 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 ES 5042

initial crack cut growth rate
(mm/kcycle) max
Compression energy (J), 15 15 15 15 15 15 ES ISO 20865
min.
Slip resistance /coefficient of 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 ES ISO 13287
friction/ min.
Abrasion loss /mm3/ max 300 300 250 300 250 300 ES ISO20871
Volatility (%) max - - 1 - 1 - ES 1189
Grain cracking on mandrel 3 - No crack - - - - ES ISO 3378
Total ash /%/ max - 3 5 - 5 - ES ISO4047
Total water soluble /%/ max - 21 - - - - ES ISO 4098
Degree of tannage, /%/min - 60 - - - - ES 1194
Top piece-heel attachment 150 150 150 150 150 150 ES ISO 22650
/N/, min

Table 5 stiffener and toe puff characteristics and requirements

requirements
stiffener Toe puff
characteristic Test method
Hardness /IRHD/, min 70 50 ES ISO 868
Flexibility /cycles/, min. 50,000 without 50,000 without ES 5042
visible damage visible damage
Attachment/bondability Strength, N/mm 0.6 0.6 ES ISO 20865
min.
Resilience /%/, min. 35 35 ES ISO 4662
Thickness /mm/ 1.0 0.6 ES ISO 2589

Table 6- Insoles and sock characteristics and requirements

Requirements
Insole Sock lining
Characteristic Leather Paper board Leather PVC/PU Test method
board
Thickness (mm), min 1.0 1.0 0.6 0.8 ES ISO 2589
Water absorption /%/ max. 35 35 - - ES ISO 22649
desorption 40 40
Flexing Index 3.7 2.7 - - ES 3929
Wet Tensile strength, 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 ES ISO 3781
N/mm2, min
Rub fastness /grey scale/,
min ES ISO 17700
a/ wet 4 4 4 4
b/dry 4 4 4 4

8 ©ESA
 ES 3993:2021

Abrasion resistance. No severe No severe - - ES ISO 20344-7.3

damage damage
before 400 before 400
cycle cycle
Stitch tear strength, N/mm, 50 50 50 50 ES ISO 20874
min

Table 7 shoe lace specification

Property Requirement Test Method

Breaking load, N

Dry min. 200 ES 3747

Wet min. 150

Shoe lace to lace carrier abrasion 5000 ES ISO 22774
resistance, cycles Min.

Shoe lace to lace abrasion resistance, 5000 ES ISO 22774

cycles Min.

Color fastness to water

1. Cellulose acetate Min. 3

2. Bleached cotton ESISO 105 – E16
3. Spun nylon
4. Spun polyester
5. Spun acrylic
6. Worsted spun wool

Knot slippage, N

Load for slippage at 50 mm Min. 12 ES 3436

Security of knot Min. 18

Table 8- physical requirements for the whole shoe

characteristic requirement Test method

Rapid Sole adhesion strength /N/, Sole Heel
minimum ES 3993 Annex A
a/leather 140 250
b/PVC/PU 270 360
c/Rubber 140 230
D/EVA/MCR 110 200
Seam strength /N/mm/, min. 15 ES ISO 17697
Whole shoe flexing ES 3993Annex C
a) Dry at 500k cycle No damage ES 3993Annex B
b) Wet at 100k cycle No Water penetration
Sole bond strength /N/mm/, min. 3.5 ES ISO 17708
Tag attachment strength, N Min. 150 ES ISO 17697

©ESA
9
ES 3993:2021

6 Workmanship and finish

6.1 Workmanship

The footwear shall be manufactured in accordance with sound manufacturing practice.

6.2 Trimming

Unless the heel seats are of the extended type, heels shall be trimmed smooth to the heel seats.

6.3 Edge trimming

The sole edges (other than pre-moulded outer sole and heel units) shall be trimmed smooth, stitched
down construction shall be so trimmed that the distance beyond the outside of the stitching on the flanged
portion of the upper is not less than 1.5 mm.

6.4 Burnishing

In leather footwear, the leather exposed at the sides of the heels and at the edges of the bottom shall be
stained, well waxed, set and polished.

6.5 Defects

Inner soles, runners and linings shall be free from protruding grinderies, roughness and pleats inside the
shoe.

7 Marking

7.1 Footwear

a) At the waist of the sole, the size and fitting number of footwear should be legibly and indelibly marked.

b) On the sock the following shall be legibly and indelibly marked:

i) Manufacturer’s name and/or registered trade mark.

ii) Size and fitting number of footwear.

iii) Country of manufacture/origin.

c) On the quarters or the tongue, the following shall be legibly and indelibly marked:

i) Manufacturer’s name and/or registered trade mark.

ii) Batch number.

iii) Size and fitting number of footwear

c) On the waist of the sole, the sock or the quarter, the manufacturer’s name or registered trade
mark shall be legibly and indelibly marked.

10 ©ESA
 ES 3993:2021

7.2 Shoe Box

Each box shall bear the following information legibly and indelibly marked:

i) Size of footwear;
ii) Manufacturer’s name or registered trade mark.
iii) Color
iv) article name

7.3 Bale

Each bale shall bear the following information legibly and indelibly marked

i) Name of product;

ii) Quantity;

iii) Name of manufacturer or local supplier’s name and/or registered trade mark;

iv) Country of manufacture/origin.

8 Packing
Each pair of footwear shall be wrapped in a suitable polyethylene bag or any other suitable material and
packed in a suitable box that will protect it from damage during normal transportation and storage.

©ESA
11
 ES 3993:2021

Annex A
(informative)

Shoe design concepts

Sandal: Any shoe (high or low) that has the toes exposed.

12 ©ESA
 Organization and Objectives
The Ethiopian Standards Agency (ESA) is the national standards body of Ethiopia
established in 2010 based on regulation No. 193/2010.ESA is established due to the
restructuring of Quality and Standards Authority o f Ethiopia ( QSAE) which was
established in 1998.

ESA’s objectives are:-

 Develop Ethiopian standards and establish a system that enable to

Ethiopian Standards Agency
የኢትዮጵያ የደረጃዎች ኤጀንሲ

check whether goods and services are in compliance with the

required standards,
 Facilitate the country’s technology transfer through the use of
standards,
 Develop national standards for local products and services so as to
make them competitive in the international market.
Ethiopian Standards
The Ethiopian Standards are developed by national technical committees which are
composed of different stakeholders consisting of educational institutions, research
institutes, government organizations, certification, inspection, and testing
organizations, regulatory bodies, consumer association etc. The requirements and/
or recommendations contained in Ethiopian Standards are consensus based that
reflects the interest of the TC representatives and also of comments received from
the public and other sources. Ethiopian Standards are approved by the National
Standardization Council and are kept under continuous review after publication and
updated regularly to take account of latest scientific and technological changes.
Orders for all Ethiopian Standards, International Standard and ASTM standards,
including electronic versions, should be addressed to the Documentation and
Publication Team at the Head office and Branch (Liaisons) offices. A catalogue of
Ethiopian Standards is also available freely and can be accessed in from our
website.
ESA has the copyright of all its publications. No part of these publications may be
reproduced in any form without the prior permission in writing of ESA.
International Involvement
ESA, representing Ethiopia, is a member of the International Organization for
Standardization ( ISO), and Codex Alimentarius Commission ( CODEX). It also
maintains close working relations with the international Electro-technical
Commission (IEC) and American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM).It is a
founding member of the African Regional Organization for standardization
(ARSO).

More Information?
Contact us at the following address.
The Head Office of ESA is at Addis Ababa.

 011- 646 06 85, 011- 646 05 65

 011-646 08 80
 2310 Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
E-mail: info@ethiostandards.org,
Website: www.ethiostandards.org
Standard Mark