A P R IL 20 23 | #27 0

PLUS:
• Master a Coopered Seat
• Top Router Accessories
• Build a Spokeshave

Veneered Chessboard
WITH SCOTT GROVE
 CELEBRATING
40 YEARS
1983 2023

Quality Machines, Great Prices!

5-SPEED HEPA HANGING AIR FILTER 1 1 ⁄ 2 HP WALL-MOUNT DUST COLLECTOR 1 1 ⁄ 2 HP PORTABLE CYCLONE DUST
WITH CANISTER FILTER COLLECTOR
• Motor: 1 ⁄ 3 HP, 110V, • Motor: 11 ⁄ 2 HP, 110V, • Motor: 11 ⁄ 2 HP, 110V,
single-phase, 2.8A single-phase, 15A single-phase, 15A
• Air flow: 800, 1000, • Airflow capacity: 1250 CFM • Airflow capacity:
1200, 1300, 1400 CFM • Maximum static pressure: 10.4" 868 CFM @ 1.8" SP
• Timer settings: 2, 4, 6, 8 hours • Filtration rating: 1-micron • Max static pressure: 9.7"
• MERV rating: MERV-17 • Filter surface area: 38.75 sq. ft. • Filtration: 1 micron
• Pre-filter: Nylon mesh screen • Impeller: 123 ⁄4" radial fin • Filter surface area: 28.1 sq. ft.
• Primary filter: • Machine collection capacity: 2 • Intake hole size: 6"
0.3-Micron, HEPA • Bag capacity: 15-gallon • Impeller: 123 ⁄4" aluminum
• Secondary filter: • Sound rating 75–77dB • Collection size: 20-gallon drum
Activated carbon • Overall dimensions: • Sound rating: 78dB
• Overall size: 221 ⁄ 2" W x 231 ⁄ 2" D x 771 ⁄ 2" H • Overall dimensions:
201 ⁄ 2" W x 271 ⁄ 2" D x 201 ⁄ 2" H • Approximate shipping weight: 271 ⁄ 2" W x 44" L x 70" H
• Approximate shipping 77 lbs. • Approx. shipping
weight: 68 lbs. weight: 278 lbs.

MADE MADE $
199
IN AN FACTORY IN AN FACTORY

T33151 ONLY $59900 WARNING! †1 G0944 ONLY $54500 WARNING! †1 G0860 ONLY $109500 WARNING! †1

6" X 79" EDGE SANDER - POLAR BEAR 12" 1 1 ⁄ 2 HP BABY DRUM SANDER 1 HP OSCILLATING SPINDLE / 12"
SERIES 1
• Sanding motor: 1 ⁄ 2 HP, 115V, • Sanding belt size: DISC SANDER
• Motor: 11 ⁄ 2 HP, • Overall dimensions: 51" single-phase, 13A 3" x 70" hook and loop • Motor: 1 HP, 110V, single- • Spindle speed: 1725 RPM
110V/220V (prewired 110V), W x 231⁄2" D x 40" H • Conveyor motor: • Overall dimensions: phase, 10A • Spindle oscillation: 60 SPM
single-phase, 14A/7A • Approximate shipping 1
⁄ 8 HP, 0.3A 27" W x 24" D x 27" H • Overall dimensions: 32" W x • Stroke length: 1"
• Sanding belt speed: 2600 FPM weight: 199 lbs. • Sanding drum size: 4" • Approx. shipping 18" D x 47" H • Table size: 141 ⁄ 2" x 141 ⁄ 2"
• Sanding belt size: 6" x 79" • Drum surface speed: weight: 166 lbs. • Approximate shipping • Table tilt: -10&ndash’45°
• Sanding belt tilt: 90° 2127 FPM weight: 181 lbs. • Table to floor height: 42"
• Edge table dimensions: • Max. stock dimensions: 12" DISC SANDER INFO:
93 ⁄ 8" W x 311 ⁄4" L W x 3 1 ⁄ 2" T • Disc diameter: 12"
• Edge table travel: 31 ⁄ 2" • Min. stock dimensions: • Disc speed: 1725 RPM
• Edge and end table tilt: 0-45° 8" L x 1 ⁄ 8" T • Sandpaper backing: PSA
• End table: 93 ⁄ 8" W x 205 ⁄ 8" L • Conveyor feed rate: • Table size: 10" x 173 ⁄4"
• Graphite-coated platen: variable, 2.5–17.3 FPM • Table tilt: 0–45°
57⁄ 8" x 321 ⁄4" • Conveyor belt dimensions: • Table to floor height: 33"
• Steel idler roller: 23 ⁄4" 121 ⁄ 2" W x 493 ⁄4" L SPINDLE SANDER INFO:
• Footprint: 37" W x 161 ⁄ 2" D
• Drum diameters: 1 ⁄4", 5⁄ 8", 11 ⁄ 2", 2"
• Drum length: 51 ⁄ 2"
MADE $
199 MADE $
199 MADE $
199
IN AN FACTORY IN AN FACTORY 177335
IN AN FACTORY

G0839P ONLY $74900 WARNING! †1 G0459 ONLY $109500 WARNING! †1 G0529 ONLY $89500 WARNING! †1

10 " 1 ⁄ 2 HP BANDSAW THE CLASSIC 14" BANDSAW 17" 2 HP BANDSAW W/

1 CAST-IRON TRUNNION
• Motor: ⁄ 2 HP, 120V, • Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V 252923 181721
single-phase, 3.5A (prewired 110V), • Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V (prewired 220V),
• Max. cutting width left of blade:93 ⁄4" single-phase, 11A/5.5A 00single-phase, 19A/9.5A
• Max. cutting height • Max. cutting width left of • Max. cutting width left of blade: 161 ⁄4"
(resaw capacity): 61 ⁄ 8" blade: 131 ⁄ 2" • Max. cutting height (resaw capacity): 12"
• Blade speeds: 2, 1520 • Max. cutting height • Blade guides: Ball-bearing with full
and 2620 FPM (resaw capacity): 6" 00enclosure protection
• Blade size: 711 ⁄ 2"–721 ⁄ 2" • Table size: 14" x 14" • Bearings: Sealed and permanently
(1 ⁄ 8"–1 ⁄ 2" wide) • Table tilt: 15° left, 45° right 00lubricated
• Table size: 143 ⁄ 16" x 125 ⁄ 8" • Floor-to-table height: 435 ⁄ 16" • Table size: 235⁄ 8" W x 171 ⁄4" D
• Table tilt: 0–45° • Blade size: 93 1 ⁄ 2" • Table tilt: 5° left, 45° right
• Footprint: 241 ⁄ 2" x 201 ⁄ 2" (1/8" 3 ⁄4" wide) • Floor to table height: 371 ⁄ 2"
• Overall dimensions: • Blade speed: 1500, • Blade size: 1311 ⁄ 2" (1 ⁄ 8" - 1" wide)
28" W x 211 ⁄ 2" D x 581 ⁄ 2" H 3200 FPM • Blade speed: 1700 and 3500 FPM
• Approx. shipping weight: 75 lbs. • Overall dimensions: 263 ⁄ 8" • Footprint: 27" W x 18" D
W x 301 ⁄4" D x 661 ⁄ 2" H • Overall size: 32" W x 32" D x 73" H
• Approximate shipping • Approximate shipping weight: 421 lbs.
weight: 199 lbs.
MADE $
28 $
199 MADE $
249
IN AN FACTORY IN AN FACTORY

G0948 ONLY $37500 WARNING! †1 G0555 ONLY $74900 WARNING! †1 G0513X2 ONLY $169500 WARNING! †1

WARNING! †1 : Cancer & Reproductive Harm

DISCOVER HUNDREDS
Some products we sell can expose you to chemicals known to the State OF PRODUCT VIDEOS
grizzly.com
of California to cause cancer and/or birth defects or other reproductive
harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
TECHNICAL SERVICE: 570-546-9663
Please visit grizzly.com for up-to-date pricing.
 • Almost a million square feet packed to the rafters with machinery & tools
• 2 quality control offices staffed with qualified Grizzly engineers
FREE 2023
CATALOG
• Huge parts facility with over 1 million parts in stock at all times
• Trained service technicians at both locations OVER 500 PAGES OF HIGH
QUALITY MACHINES & TOOLS
• Most orders ship the same day AT INCREDIBLE PRICES

10" 2 HP BENCHTOP TABLE SAW 10" 2 HP 120V HYBRID TABLE SAW 10" 3 HP 240V CABINET TABLE SAW
C US
WITH T-SHAPED FENCE
• Motor: 2 HP, 120V, single-phase, 15A Table Saw 93K7
• Motor: 3 HP, 240V, • Max. width of dado: 13 ⁄ 16"
• Table size: 263 ⁄ 8" W x 221 ⁄4" D E98714
• Dust port size: 4" single-phase, 14A • Overall dimensions: 66" W x 47"
• Motor: 2 HP, 120V/240V
• Arbor speed:variable, (prewired for 120V), • Rip capacity: 32" right, D x 40" H
• Footprint: 191 ⁄ 2" x 21" 14" left of blade
2000-4000 RPM single-phase, 15A/7.5A • Overall dimensions: 64" W x • Footprint: 201 ⁄ 2" x 201 ⁄ 2"
• Blade tilt: Left, 45° • Rip capacity: 31" right, • Max. depth of cut @ • Approximate shipping weight:
401 ⁄4" D x 36" H 90°: 3" 508 lbs.
• Max. depth of cut: 163 ⁄4" left of blade • Approximate shipping
31 ⁄ 8" @ 90°, 21 ⁄4" @ 45° • Max. depth of cut @
• Max. depth of cut @ 90°: 31 ⁄ 8" weight: 371 lbs. 45°: 21 ⁄ 8"
• Rip capacity: 28" right • Max. depth of cut @ 45°: 21 ⁄4"
• Dado capacity: 13 ⁄ 16" • Table size with
• Table size with extension extension: 40" W x 27" D
• Overall size: wings: 40-1/2" W x 27" D • Distance from front
28" W x 371 ⁄ 2" D x 201 ⁄ 2" H(G0869) • Distance from front of table of table to center of
411 ⁄ 2" W x 371 ⁄ 2" D x 41" H (G0870) to center of blade: 151⁄2" blade: 17"
• Approx. shipping weight: MADE • Floor-to-table height: 353⁄8"
IN AN FACTORY
• Floor-to-table height: 34"
72 lbs. (G0869) • Arbor diameter: 5 ⁄ 8" • Arbor diameter: 5 ⁄ 8"
106 lbs. (G0870) • Arbor speed: 3450 RPM • Arbor speed: 4200 RPM
$
59 • Max. width of dado: 13 ⁄ 16"
G0869 ONLY $49500 MADE
$
79 IN AN FACTORY $
249 MADE $
239
G0870 ONLY $59500
5012917
IN AN FACTORY 177335

WITH ROLLER STAND

WARNING! †1 G0771Z ONLY $119500 WARNING! †1 G1023RL ONLY $219500 WARNING! †1

13" 2 HP BENCHTOP PLANER 15" 3 HP HEAVY-DUTY PLANER 15" 3 HP FIXED-TABLE PLANER WITH
WITH HELICAL CUTTERHEAD 1
HELICAL CUTTERHEAD
• Motor: 3 HP, 240V, • Footprint: 20" x 20 ⁄ 2"
• Motor: 2 HP, 120V, extensions: 13" x 28" single-phase, 14A • Footprint with optional • Motor: 3 HP, 230V, single-phase, 12A • Dust port size: 4"
single-phase, 15A • Overall dimensions: • Maximum stock width: 15" stand: 26" x 26" • Maximum stock width: 15" • Footprint: 21" x 181 ⁄ 2"
• Max. cut width: 13" 251 ⁄ 2" W x 28" D x 19" H • Maximum stock thickness: 81 ⁄4" • Overall dimensions: • Maximum stock thickness: 6" • Overall dimensions:
• Min. stock length: 6" • Approx. shipping weight: • Minimum stock thickness: 1 ⁄4" 32" W x 28" D x 231 ⁄ 2" H • Minimum stock thickness: 3 ⁄ 16" 25" W x 49" L x 471 ⁄ 2" H
• Min. stock thickness: 1 ⁄ 8" 82 lbs. • Minimum stock length: 63 ⁄ 8" • Approx. shipping weight: • Minimum stock length: 6" • Approximate shipping
• Max. stock thickness: 6" • Maximum cut depth full 388 lbs. • Maximum cut depth full width: 1 ⁄ 8" weight: 375 lbs.
• Max. cut depth full width: 1 ⁄ 32" width: 1 ⁄ 8" • Maximum cut depth 6" wide: 3 ⁄ 16"
• Max. cut depth 6" wide: 3 ⁄ 32" • Maximum cut depth 6" wide: 3 ⁄ 16" • Cutterhead diameter: 25 ⁄ 8"
• Cutterhead type: 2" helical with • Cutterhead diameter: 3" • Cutterhead type: 4-row helical,
2-row spirals, 30 inserts • Cutterhead type: 3-knife 48 inserts
• Insert size and type: 15mm • Knife size, type: • Insert size and type: 15mm x
15" x 1" x 1 ⁄ 8", HSS 15mm x 2.5mm, 30° indexable
x 15mm x 2.5mm indexable carbide
carbide inserts • Cutterhead speed: 5000 RPM
• Feed rate: 16, 30 FPM • Cutterhead speed: 5200 RPM
• Feed rate: 25 FPM • Feed rates: 16 FPM, 28 FPM
• Table size with • Table size: 15" x 201 ⁄ 8"
• Dust port size: 4" • Table size with extensions: 15" x 49"

MADE $
79 MADE $
249 MADE $
249
IN AN FACTORY IN AN FACTORY 177335 IN AN FACTORY 175370

G0940 ONLY $79500 WARNING! †1 G0815 ONLY $152500 WARNING! †1 G0891 ONLY $209500 WARNING! †1

6" BENCHTOP JOINTER WITH SPIRAL-TYPE 12 & 8" COMBO PLANER/JOINTER 6" JOINTER W/STAND & V-HELICAL
CUTTERHEAD 1 3
• Planer table size: 19 ⁄4" L x 12" W
CUTTERHEAD
• Motor: 1 ⁄ 2 HP, 120V, • Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V • Minimum stock thickness:1⁄2"
• Motor: 11 ⁄ 2 HP, 120V, • Number of inserts: 12 single-phase, 15A • Jointer table size: 423⁄8" L x 12" W
single-phase, 10A • Table size: 61 ⁄4" x 30" • Footprint: 19" x 151 ⁄ 2" (prewired 110V), • Dust port size: 4"
• Maximum cut width: single-phase, 14A/7A • Footprint: 131 ⁄ 2" x 18"
• Maximum width of cut: 6" • Fence size: 193 ⁄4" L x 41 ⁄4" H 12" (G0959), 8" (G0958) • Overall dimensions:
• Maximum depth of cut: 1 ⁄ 8" • Dust port size: 2-1/2" 45" W x 231 ⁄ 2" • Maximum width of cut: 6" • Overall dimensions: 471 ⁄ 2" W
• Maximum cut depth: 1 ⁄ 16" • Maximum depth of cut: 1 ⁄ 8" x 20" D x 42" H
• Minimum workpiece length: 10" • Footprint: 91 ⁄ 2" x 191 ⁄ 2" • Minimum workpiece length: 6" D x 221 ⁄ 2" H (G0959)
• Minimum stock thickness: 1 ⁄ 2" • Overall dimensions: 30" 31" W x 17-1/2" • Maximum rabbeting depth: 1 ⁄ 2" • Approximate shipping
• Minimum thickness: 1 ⁄4" • Cutterhead diameter: 21 ⁄ 2" weight: 260 lbs
• Number of cuts per minute: W x 17 1 ⁄ 2" D x 13" H • Cutterhead type: 2" helical D x 18-1/2" H (G0958)
72,000 • Cutterhead type: 4-row V-helical
• Approx. shipping with 2-row spirals, 28 inserts • Approximate shipping weight: • Insert size, type:
• Cutterhead type: 6-Row weight: 44 lbs. • Insert size and type: 95 lbs (G0959) , 57 lbs (G0958) 15mm x 15mm x 2.5mm,
spiral-type 15mm x 15mm x 2.5mm indexable carbide
• Cutterhead diameter: 2" tindexable carbide inserts • Cutterhead speed: 5000 RPM
• Cutterhead speed: 11,000 RPM • Cutterhead speed: 8500 RPM • Table size: 65 ⁄ 8" x 473 ⁄ 8"
• Cutter insert type: • Cuts per minute: 17,000 • Table adjustment type:
Indexable HSS • Planing feed rate: 22 FPM Handwheel
• Cutter insert size: • Bevel jointing: 0–45° • Fence size: 291 ⁄ 8" x 4"
14mm x 14mm x 2mm • Fence size: 25" L x 5" H $
28 • Minimum stock length: 8"
MADE • Minimum stock width: 3 ⁄4"
IN AN FACTORY
MADE $
199 MADE $
199
IN AN FACTORY
262149 G0958 ONLY $54900 IN AN FACTORY

G0946 ONLY $34900 WARNING! †1 G0959T ONLY $99500 WARNING! †1 G0814X ONLY $129500 WARNING! †1
Due to rapidly changing market conditions, our advertised prices may be changed at any time without prior notice. Please visit grizzly.com for up-to-date pricing.

Financing Available

Business to Business
22562

Equipment Financing
APRIL 2023 | VOL. 43, NO. 2

Build
22 Making a Traditional
Spokeshave
This traditional tool is as fun to build as it is to use.
BY RUSTY TCHERNIS

30 Veneered Chessboard
By combining figured veneer with great technique,
Scott Grove shows how to build a stunning chessboard.
BY SCOTT GROVE

42 Coopered Seat
A coopered seat is the perfect foundation for building 42
countless different seating projects.
BY CHARLES BROCK

52 Stickley #630 Drop-Leaf Table

This Stickley classic is the perfect side table in your
house, and it packs in some great woodworking.
BY WILLIE SANDRY

52 30

22
 POPULARWOODWORKING.COM

Connect
04 From the Editor
Woodworking varies from
culture to culture, but the tools
and techniques share some
common roots.
BY LOGAN WITTMER

06 New Tools
Check out the new hand tool
irons from Lake Erie Toolworks
and a new plane from Bridge
City Tools.
BY PW EDITORS
04 06
Craft
08 In the Shop
We take a quick look at some
accessories that will help you get
a little more from your router.
BY LOGAN WITTMER

16 The Rule Joint

This traditional joint allows the
wings of a table to rise up and
have a seamless look.
BY WILLIE SANDRY

62 Bespoke Toolmaker
Honey Brook Tools, owned by
08 16 Vermont-based toolmaker Will
Adams, offers some of the best
hand-made tools around.
BY LOGAN WITTMER

Number 270, April 2023, Popular Woodworking (USPS #752-

250) (ISSN 0884-8823) Canadian Agreement No. 40025316
is published 6 times a year, February, April, June, August, October,
and December, by the Home Group of Active Interest Media
HoldCo, Inc. The known office of publication is located at 2143
Grand Avenue, Des Moines, IA 50312. Periodicals postage paid
at Des Moines, IA, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER.
Send address changes to Popular Woodworking, P.O. Box 37274,
Boone, IA 50037-0274. PRIVACY STATEMENT: Active Interest
Media HoldCo, Inc. is committed to protecting your privacy. For a full
62 copy of our privacy statement, go to aimmedia.com/privacy-policy.

■ POPULARWOODWORKING.COM 3
 FROM THE EDITOR

Woodworking
Abroad
By Logan Wittmer
I’m going to admit that there are
aspects of my life that I live (and
view) “inside the box.” Wood-
working, as an industry, tends to
be one of those. Our (magazine)
audience is concentrated in the
United States, and that’s usually ground, carving. The gentleman, piece he was working on — an
where my scope of the industry Abel, was working on mahogany unfinished window divider (shown
lies (toolmakers aside —some of pieces that are used in architec- above). I tried, unsuccessfully I
my favorites are from the UK). ture— corbels, window panels, think, to explain to him that I ap-
However, in the words of Nancy etc. It was fascinating to me how preciated this piece as a snapshot
Reagan, “There’s a big, wonderful different, yet similar, his tools, of him, as a craftsman, from start
world out there for you.” techniques, and mindset were to to finish.
With that in mind, I’ve started how we work as hobbyists. So, if your life finds you outside
to keep my eyes out while travel- I wandered away from Abel’s your home, abroad or not, take a
ing abroad to see and understand stand, admiring this craftsman moment to view others' work as
exactly what is out there. Several who was making his living selling a snapshot of themselves and ap-
weeks back, I spent a week in his craft on the crowded streets of preciate them as craftsmen. Maybe
Cartagena, Colombia. While wan- Cartagena. Of course, I didn’t walk even consider bringing
dering the streets, I came across away from his stand empty-handed. a piece home for
a street vendor sitting on the Instead, I asked Abel to sell me the yourself. Cheers!

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

CHARLES BROCK: WILLIE SANDRY:

Coopered Chair Seat– pg. 42 Drop Leaf Table – pg. 52
Having built fine furniture since 1979, Hailing from the Pacific Northwest, Willie
Charles Brock has combined his 30 Sandry is a long time fan of Arts & Crafts
years in public education with his love furniture. He takes inspiration for his
of woodworking. Chuck teaches six projects from antique furniture exhibi-
-day sculpted rocker classes (heavily in- tions, as well as “old barn finds.” From
fluenced by Sam Maloof) out of his shop in Nashville, Tennessee. sawing lumber and kiln drying to finishing a chair with top-notch
Apart from teaching, Chuck is also the host of the popular video upholstery, Willie sees a project from start until finish. YouTube:
series the Highland Woodworker (thehighlandwoodworker.com). The Thoughtful Woodworker.

SCOTT GROVE: RUSTY TCHERNIS:

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY LOGAN WITTMER

Veneered Chessboard– pg. 30 Spokeshave – pg. 22

Scott Grove (Canandaigua, NY) blurs the Masquerading as an economics professor
line between artist and woodworker. Scott by day (Georgia State University) and chair
teaches worldwide, most notably at Marc maker by night, Rusty Tchernis is the
Adams School of Woodworking and the epitome of a renaissance man. Whether
Chippendale school in Scotland. Among his it's canoe building, chair making, crafting
countless awards, Scott has received four Veneer Tech Craftsman spokeshaves, or tending his bonsai collection, Rusty executes
Challenge awards, an unprecedented achievement in the field. everything at a high level. During his free time, Rusty teaches
You can see Scott’s work at ImagineGrove.com. chair-making classes out of his Atlanta-based shop.
APRIL 2023, Vol. 43, No. 2

EDITOR IN CHIEF ■ Logan Wittmer

SENIOR DESIGNER ■ Danielle Lowery
DIGITAL EDITOR ■ Collin Knoff
PROJECTS EDITOR ■ Dillon Baker
TECHNOLOGY EDITOR ■ Chris Fitch
COVER PHOTOGRAPHER ■ Logan Wittmer
SET STYLIST ■ Becky Kralicek
CONTRIBUTORS ■ Charles Brock, Scott
Grove, Willie Sandry, and Rusty Tchernis

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION ■

Phil Graham
ADVERTISING SALES DIRECTOR ■

Heather Glynn Gniazodowski

CREATIVE DIRECTOR ■ Edie Mann
MARKETING COORDINATOR ■
Genevieve Dickinson
ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR ■

Julie Dillon; jdillon@ aimmedia.com

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ■

Jack Christiansen; Tel: (847) 724-5623;

jchristiansen@ aimmedia.com

PRESIDENT, HOME GROUP ■

Peter H. Miller
PRESIDENT, MARINE GROUP ■

Gary DeSanctis
CTO ■ Brian Van Heuverswyn
CFO ■ Stephen Pompeo
VP, MARKETING ■ Amanda Phillips
VP, EVENTS ■ Julie Zub
VP, CIRCULATION ■ Paige Nordmeyer
HR DIRECTOR ■ Scott Roeder
ACCOUNTING MANAGER ■

Stephen O’Neill
DIRECTOR, RETAIL SALES ■ Susan Rose
CHAIRMAN ■ Andrew W. Clurman
CHAIRMAN EMERITUS ■

Efrem Zimbalist III

EDITORIAL CONTACT:
Logan Wittmer; lwittmer @ aimmedia.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS:
For subscription questions or address changes, visit
www.popularwoodworking.com/customerservice
or call (877) 860-9140 (U.S. only). U.S. subscription
rate $24.95, single price $6.99. Canadian sub-
scriptions rate $34.95 USD. Canadian Agreement
No. 40025316.

CUSTOMER SERVICE:
P.O. Box 842, Des Moines, IA 50304-0842,
subscriptions @ aimmedia.com

COPYRIGHT:
2022 by Active Interest Media Holdco, Inc. Des
Moines, Iowa. This publication may not be repro-
duced, either in whole or part, in any form without
written permission from the publisher.
 Connect
NEW TOOLS

CPM Magnacut Blades

As a hand tool junkie, I look at a few things when de-
ciding if a tool is up to snuff. One of those is the con-
dition of the blade. Luckily, replacement blades are
readily available, at least in hand planes. The team at
Lake Erie Toolworks has thrown their hats in the ring
by introducing their new CPM Magnacut Blades. ■ CPM MAGNACUT BLADES
Lake Erie Toolworks, known for their phenomenal Lake Erie Toolworks
wood vice hardware, has started producing replace- LakeErieToolworks.com
Price: $44.99+
ment blades for various styles of hand planes, ranging
from vintage Stanley/Bailey planes to more modern
Lie-Nielsen and Veritas. The real draw of these blades, As I mentioned, the folks at Lake Erie Toolworks
in my opinion, is the steel that they’re made from. The have started offering blades out of the CPM Magna-
CPM Magnacut steel is the brainchild of Larrin Thomas, cut for the most popular styles of hand planes, in-
a metallurgist from Pittsburgh. It offers outstanding cluding the common bench planes made by Stanley/
edge retention and easy sharpening (caveat—I use Bailey. Lake Erie went one step further and have also
diamond stones which sharpen just about everything). have introduced a line of block plane blades. If you
While most users might not notice a big difference have a plane with an iron that needs replaced or just
between reputable modern blade manufacturers, I no- want a blade that will stay sharp noticeably longer,
ticed a big difference in these blades, even compared you can’t go wrong with the Magnacut blades from
to my high-quality Lie-Nielsen blades. Lake Erie. — Logan Wittmer

Bridge City Toolworks HP-6FX

Bridge City Tools, has flawless CNC machining.
The HP-6FX comes standard as a rabbet plane — it
features a rabbet blade and sole (left photo). The
sole has nickers for cross-grain work. The real beauty
about the HP-6FX, when compared to other multi-
planes (such as a Stanley 45/55), is the fact that when
you change blades, you also change soles. This means
the edge is supported as you cut, much like a wooden
molding plane. The soles are attached to the plane
via dovetailed slots. The front and rear soles slip off,
■ HP-6FX the blade gets swapped out, and new soles get slipped
Bridge City Tools on. Ingenious.
BridgeCityTools.com Some of the profiles available for the HP-6FX are a
Price: $669.00+ crowning kit (in three radii), a dado/groove kit (seven
widths), a radius crown (think roundover—five
If you’ve ever taken a look at Bridge City Tools, you’ll diameters), and a V-groove kit (60° and 90° angles).
know that they have a history of having futuristic-look- If you’ve invested in a previous version of the HP-6,
ing tools that perform as well as they look. Recently, don’t worry. All of the soles and blades are backward
PHOTOS BY THE AUTHORS

Bridge City announced (and released) an update to and forward-compatible. Previous versions' soles
their HP-6 multiplane. The new HP-6FX is a mighty will fit on the new HP-6FX, and the new HP-6FX
tool packed in a small package. Like its predecessors, soles will fit on previous versions of the plane. If you
the interchangeable soles and cutters allow you to cut would like to see the HP-6FX in action, I’ll have a
various profiles with one plane. The new version of the video on the Popular Woodworking YouTube channel
HP-6 features high-grade stainless steel and, like all showing it in use.— Logan Wittmer

6 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 In The Shop

Top Accessories for

Your Router Setup
Get more from your router and router
table with these fantastic accessories.
By Logan Wittmer

■ MULTI-FUNCTION
ROUTER BASE
Woodpeckers
Woodpeck.com
Price: $249.99

A router may be one of the

most versatile tools in the
■ AUXILIARY BASES well (seriously, have you ever tried
to use those scissors?). The base
shop. As a hand tool nut, that Auxiliary bases are a mainstay in has attachments that allow you to
hurts me a little bit to say, my shop. Half of my routers (yes, cut mortises, a compass arm for
but it’s true. Over the years, I have multiples) have some form cutting arcs and circles (as you
I’ve come to appreciate how of a jerry-rigged base for specific see above), and various mount-
versatile these screaming, tasks. However, my absolute favor- ing holes for adding your own
dust-creating, whirling tools ite of all my router bases is the one fences. In my opinion, one of the
can be. They slice, they dice, you see in the photo above—the best features is the ability to use
they julienne. But, just like Multi-Function Router Base from a micro-adjust knob to shift the
PHOTOS BY LOGAN WITTMER

everything else, routers are Woodpeckers. This base is designed router slightly in relation to the
tools, and to unlock their full to fit nearly any router, as it uses base. The photo you see above is
potential, there are countless guide rods through the router's from the “Outdoor Kitchen” proj-
accessories that you can add base to secure it. As you can see, ect back from the April 2022 issue.
to your router cabinet that I keep my small trim router on My trim router is the most used
will help you get more out of this base. The base is basically a router in my shop, and this base
them. Here are some of my Swiss Army knife, but unlike one, has been attached to it ever since
favorites. it performs all of the functions that project.

8 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Precision Cutting
Simplified
Shaper’s collection of tools is growing. Upgrade your workshop
with the intuitive digital precision of Origin, Workstation, and Plate.

shapertools.com

A handheld CNC router.

No computer programming required.

Vertical and horizontal workholding.

Custom joinery made easy.

The universal template for Origin.

Install hardware, bow-ties, and more.

See Origin LIVE

shapertools.com/sessions
 Router Accessories

■ THE ULTIMATE BIT KIT

■ ROUTER BIT VISE

Infinity Tools
InfinityTools.com
Price: $34.90

Router bits are a sneaky thing. ing a worn-out bearing, but you tighten the bearing bolts. From
After purchasing just a handful, can also adjust the bearing size one face, it keeps the shaft from
you’ll probably have more money on something like a rabbet bit spinning while you loosen the bolt
wrapped up in router bits than in (photos above). While you’re on and the opposite face as you tight-
your actual router. So, in my mind, the Infinity website, do yourself a en it. Trust me; you don’t want to
you should probably take care favor and grab one of their router put a router bit in your vise and
of them. Most router bits use a bit vises. This nifty little vise holds gouge up the shank—ask me how I
bearing to guide the bit along the bit shanks so you can loosen and know that.
workpiece — either on the top or
on the shank. After a router bit is
used extensively, you’ll find that
the bearings have a tendency to
either wear out and start sticking
or to gum up enough that they ■ 33 PIECE ROUTER BIT
need to be soaked in a cleaner to BEARING EMERGENCY KIT
free them up again. Infinity Tools
Having a set of spare bearings InfinityTools.com
on hand can help you keep on Price: $79.90
working while your bearings are
relaxing at the (Pinesol) spa. Many
bit manufacturers offer replace-
ment bearings, but I find it handy
to have a variety of sizes avail-
able. For example, the 33-piece
emergency kit from Infinity Tools
(right photo ), has everything that
I’d need to fix a router bit. It has
several sizes of bearings (both
inside and outside diameter), and
it includes additional hex-bolts,
stop collars, and wrenches for
commonly used bearing bolts.
Not only is this great for replac-

10 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 FOR THE PRO IN YOU
Professionals prefer Titebond wood glues more than 7 to 1.

Pros trust the Titebond wood glue brand for the proven performance, respected
advice and reliable solutions they demand each and every time. So should you.

01105_5195bcm titebond.com | 1-800-347-4583

 Router Accessories

■ ONEIDA ROUTER HOOD

As great as routers are in the shop, they’re every
bit as good at making dust. And they make so much
dust that most manufacturers don’t try to include
any form of dust collection with their routers.
Wrangling that dust is hard. However, the Oneida
Dust-Free Router Hood collects nearly all of the
dust the router creates.
The key feature of the Dust Free Router Hood is
the clear plastic base that attaches to your router’s
base. A collection hose is positioned right near the
bit which pulls the chips and dust up and out of the
cut. When you’re routing with an exposed bit (such
as routing an edge profile on a workpiece), there’s
a bit shield that snaps into place and shields the
outside of the bit. Because everything’s made from
clear plastic, your view of your bit and workpieces
isn’t obstructed. The combination of all of these
pieces working together give you dust-free routing.
In my mind, it’s a great value in the shop.
■ DIAMOND CREDIT CARD
SHARPENING STONE
James Barry Sharpening
Store.PopularWoodworking.com
Price: $32.45

■ DIAMOND HONE
As with any cutting tool, router bits get dull as
you use them. The use of carbide in cutting edges
has greatly prolonged the life of these cutters, but
they still get dull. So if you have a bit that’s starting
to burn your workpiece more often than not, it’s ■ DUST-FREE
time to address it. The first task is to give it a good ROUTER HOOD
cleaning and make sure that there’s no pitch built Onedia-Air
up on the bit. If the bit is good and clean but still Oneida-Air.com
leaves burn marks, it might be time to send it to be Price: $34.95
sharpened. Or is it?
Just as the use of carbide has increased the life of
cutters, the use of diamond in sharpening stones has
increased the number of tools that can be sharp-
ened—even carbide router bits. The small credit
card diamond stone you see in the photo above is
perfect for touching up the edges of router bits and
getting a little more life out of them before they need
re-ground. The stone here (available at store.popu-
larwoodworking.com) is thin enough to get between
the router bit cutters and is stiff enough not to flex
as you hone the bit. Of course, the most important
thing is to lubricate the diamond stone with lapping
fluid, and to make the same amount of passes on
each cutter, as to not unbalance them.

12 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Innovative Products
High-Quality Machines & Tools
SINCE 1989!

18” 1 1 ⁄ 2 HP

W1854
OPEN-END
DRUM SANDER
W1888

10” HYBRID TABLE SAW W/ VS FEED

• Sanding motor: 11 ⁄ 2 HP, 120V, 13A
• Sandpaper speed: 2600, 3400 FPM
• Motor: 2 HP, 115V/230V, 16A/8A • Conveyor feed rate: 0-12 FPM
• Rip capacity: 31 1 ⁄ 2” R, 11 3⁄ 8” L
• Max depth of cut at 90°: 3 1 ⁄ 8”
WARNING! †1 3092372

MADE
WARNING! †1 601745 IN AN FACTORY

13” BENCHTOP PLANER

W1877

WITH SPIRAL-STYLE
CUTTERHEAD
W1878

9” BENCHTOP BANDSAW • Motor: 2 HP, 120V, 15A

• Maximum depth of cut: 1 ⁄ 8” (6" wide board)
• Maximum depth of cut: 1 ⁄ 16” (full width)
• Motor: 1 ⁄ 3 HP, 120V, 2.8A
• Max. cutting width: 8 7⁄ 8" MADE
• Resaw capacity: 3 5⁄ 8" WARNING! † 1
262149
IN AN FACTORY

MADE
WARNING! †1 IN AN FACTORY

10” 2 HP
OPEN STAND
HYBRID
1 1 ⁄ 2 HP PORTABLE TABLE SAW
W1867

CYCLONE DUST
COLLECTOR • Motor: 2 HP,
120V⁄240V, 15A/7.5A
• Rip capacity:
• Motor: 1 1 ⁄ 2 HP, 110V, 15A
• Intake hole size: 6”
30" R, 15" L
• Table size:
• Impeller: 12 3⁄4” aluminum
40 1 ⁄4" W x 27" D
MADE MADE
WARNING! †1 IN AN FACTORY IN AN FACTORY
WARNING! † 1
5012917
22401R

woodstockint.com WHOLESALE ONLY WARNING! †1 : Cancer & Reproductive Harm SHOP FOX®
machines are backed
AVAILABLE FROM Some products we sell can expose you to
by a 2-Year Warranty!
800-840-8420 DEALERS NATIONWIDE
Please Visit Our Website Or
chemicals known to the State of California to
cause cancer and/or birth defects or other
SHOP FOX® is a registered trademark
Call Toll Free To Find An reproductive harm. For more information go to
SALES@WOODSTOCKINT.COM Authorized Dealer Near You www.P65Warnings.ca.gov of Woodstock ® International, Inc.
 Router Accessories

■ QUICK CHANGE COLLET

Here’s one accessory I didn’t
know I needed until I had it. As
you probably know, routers hold
a bit by tightening a collet against
the router spindle. Using a pair
of wrenches, you can tighten and
loosen the collet against the rout-
er, allowing you to change bits.
You can also bash your knuckles
up trying to change out a bit that
you accidentally snugged down
too tight.
This quick change collet is avail-
able to purchase from Chipsfly.com
and replaces the standard collet
that comes on a router (you’ll
have to order one for your partic-
ular router brand).
■ QUICK Once the collet is
CHANGE snugged down in a hex head bolt that holds the bit
COLLET the router, you use in place. I’ve replaced my router
Chipsfly a long, t-handle table collet with one of these,
Chipsfly.com Allen wrench to and it’s been one of my favorite
Price: $60.00
loosen and tighten upgrades for my router table.

■ MICROJIG GRR-RIPPER
flip-down toggles on each side
of them (you can see them on
the front edge of the workpiece).
These “hook” the edges of the
workpiece and get you a much
better grip as you’re working at
whichever tool you’re at—I don’t
feel as though I have to put my
weight on the push pad to keep it
from slipping. If you don’t want
the hooks down, pushing them
firmly with your finger will snap
them up and out of the way.
As much as I love to hate on
routers, they sure are a handy tool
to have in the shop. These are a
few of the accessories that I like
to have on hand that make me
Finally, this isn’t what I would years, I’ve transitioned almost hate routers a little less. And, of
consider an exclusive routing all of them to the push pad you course, I’d love to hear from you
accessory rather than a shop see here—the Grr-Ripper from if you have particular accessories
accessory. Push blocks and push Microjig. that you consider necessary while
pads live everywhere I have a The thing I like about these working with a router in your
power tool. Over the last several push pads are that they have small shop. PW —Logan Wittmer

14 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Technique

Rule Joint
for Drop-
Leaf Tables
By Willie Sandy

This traditional joint allows the

wings of a table to raise up and
have a seamless look.

■ Drop-Leaf Matched
Router Bit Set
( Item #00-124 )
Infinity Cutting Tools
InfinityTools.com
Price: $73.80

A rule joint uses matching carpenters. Traditionally, this joint cove-cutting bit. So, if you buy the
profiles to fit a table top together was cut with specialty planes that matching set, the bits work great
with a folding leaf. The resulting created the mating shapes. Today, to make flawless rule joints, but
shapes fit together perfectly and we can speed up the process by they’re also a good addition to
allow the table panel to offer using carbide-tipped router bits. your daily router bit collection.
support to the leaf along the edge, The bits are a matched set, so they
something a hinged butt joint both have the same radius and
1 A Stanley Rule & Lever Co. ruler il-
cannot do. The rule joint gets its appropriate bearing size for this lustrates the rule joint (at the knuckle).
name from folding rulers that type of work. Although these bits
used a similar interlocking shape are often sold together, they are 2 The joint can be made with a rule
and were commonly used by just a large roundover bit and a joint bit set.

PHOTO BY WILLIE SANDRY & LOGAN WITTMER

1 2

16 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Rule Joints

3-5 The table top receives a shouldered roundover. To cut this, I make multiple
passes at the router table, raising the bit a little each time.
5
6-7 The wings of the table gets a cove. As with the roundover, I cut this in
multiple passes, checking the progress by holding it to the top.

Start With Roundover mill the table leaves. Again, align

As with any detailed joinery the bearing on the router bit flush
process, make sure to start with with the router table fence. Make
flat and square panels. The first multiple passes with the table leaf
step in the process is to chuck face-up until the two profiles fit 6
the roundover bit in the router together like a puzzle piece. Once
table. Although the roundover the coved lead component abuts
bit is bearing-guided, you should the tabletop and the two parts are
always set the router table fence perfectly flush on top, the rule
flush with the bearing. That way, joint is complete. NOTE: When
if the bearing should lose contact it comes to the grain direction of
with the edge of the panel as the the rule joint, I prefer to rout the
router bit is raised for multiple profiles on the long-grain edge
passes, the fence will still ensure when the design allows, but I’ve
an accurate cut. Set the bit height seen them made both ways. 7
for a shallow cut and orient the
main table panel face-down. Use Drop-Leaf Hinge smoothly without any binding. I
large push paddles to control the Installation recommend Rockler’s Drop-leaf
cut and incrementally raise the Not just any butt hinge from Hinges, item #29256.
bit height for successive passes. the hardware store will work for The key to successful hinge
Remember to rout both edges of a drop-leaf table. You need to installation is using a template
the main table panel with each source specialty drop-leaf hinges to create a two-tiered mortise.
new bit height. Keep an eye on that are made for this application. Building the template is the defi-
the shoulder formed on your They’re unique because the two nition of simplicity. Just cobble
tabletop panel. The goal is to leaves of the hinge are actually together scraps of 1/2"-thick ply-
form a 3/16" deep shoulder with a asymmetrical. The short leaf of wood to make a frame around the
roundover cutter. the hinge is installed on the table hinge. You could glue the parts of
side of the joint. The longer hinge the template together, I suppose,
Cove Leaves to Match leaf installs on the leaf side of but I elected to attach things with
Once you’ve achieved target depth the joint. This places the axis of pocket hole screws. Label the
with the roundover bit, swap it out rotation in the correct spot so template with a “fixed table” side
for the matching cove cutter to that the tables' leaves will operate and a “folding leaf ” side. You’ll

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 17
 Rule Joints

8 9

also need to mark the joint line

on the hinge-mortising template.
For that, just strike a line 1 7/8"
from the fixed table side of the
template opening.
Probably the biggest mistake
people make when installing these
specialty hinges is the failure to
leave a gap. If you rout the hinge
mortise while the two panels are
clamped tightly together, you’ll in-
variably get some contact between
the mating parts. This creates a
rubbing or squeaking noise in the
finished project and will remove
the finish you applied to the rule
joint. To avoid this issue, simply
use thin cardboard (dense, non- 10 11
corrugated packaging cardboard)
as a spacer. Usually, one or two
strips create a sufficient gap 8 Routing the hinge mortise is done with a plywood template, sized for the
hinges that you'll be using.
between the panels of your table.
Aim for a 1/32" gap between panels 9 After routing, you might need to square up the corners, depending if your
when routing the hinge mortise. hinge corners are rounded or square.
Chuck a hinge-mortising bit into 10-11 Adding a spacer into the template and a bushing to the router lets you
a compact plunge router. Make rout the deeper pocket for the hinge knuckle.
sure the bearing on the bit exactly
matches the cutting diameter.
Some hinge mortising bits have your table. Set the router bit depth bit and a 1/2" guide bushing with
slightly oversized bearings, which to the thickness of the hinge leaf, this cut. A small spacer block will
is problematic when it comes time plus the thickness of your tem- locate the secondary mortise in just
to install the hinges. In addition, plate material. Rout around the the right place. The spacer block is
source a bit with a short cutting hinge template in a clockwise di- an offcut of 1/2" plywood sized to
length. A 1/4" or 5/16" cutting rection, then clean out the waste match the width of the template
length will work fine with the in the middle of the opening. opening by 1 1/8" long. Place the
template you made. Secure the With the template still attached spacer in the fixed table side of the
template with double-sided carpet to your workpiece, set up a router template and use it as a guide to
tape, aligning the pencil mark on for the deeper hinge knuckle cut the slot. Blow out the dust and
the template with the joint line of mortise. Use a 5/16" diameter spiral chisel the corners of the mortises

18 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
LEARN MORE

ULTRA-PRECISION BRUSHLESS MICRO-GRINDER

O-GRINDER

Emax EVOlution

» High Accuracy & Reliability

» Lightweight & Superior Durability
» Compact, Functional Design for Portability
ent
» Quiet Operation with Stepless Speed Adjustment
» Modular with 14 Attachment Options

H IT IN AC
T
TC
IO
A
• W

N•NG
PO
PU

KI

Images Courtesy of J Paul Fennel

LA R
RW O
OODW

www.NSKAmericaCorp.com | Phone: (847) 843-7664 | Toll Free: (800) 585-4675 | info@nskamericacorp.com

 Rule Joints

12 Install the hinges so that they’re

flush with the bottom surface.
13 The rule joint should open and
close freely and evenly.

between the two panels as you

install the hinges. Drive the screws
by hand and test that the folding
joint operates properly.
As with any hardware choice,
make sure the placement of the
hinges works well with the overall
design of the furniture piece.
Drop-leaf tables typically have
slide-out or swing-out mecha-
12 13 nisms to support the raised table
leaf. Just make sure to avoid any
potential mechanical interference
square. You can clean out the this next step. between the hinges and the table
corners of both the shallow hinge Remove the template and drop support mechanism you choose. I
mortise and the deeper knuckle the hinge in place. Use a Vix-style think you’ll find a drop-leaf table
mortise while the template is still self-centering drill bit to accurately can be a satisfying project to build,
in place. It acts as a nice guide for pre-drill the mounting holes. Keep even for a seasoned woodworker.
your hand chisel as you complete the thin cardboard spacer in place PW – Willie Sandry

      

     

             

• Includes all of the great features of Digital Only

• Step-by-step projects • Wood encyclopedia • Print Subscription to Popular Woodworking magazine
• Exclusive blogs • 25% off the entire PW store • Two free digital books:
• Latest articles from Popular Woodworking magazine online Arts & Crafts: 6 Furniture Projects in this Iconic Style
• Exclusive access to new videos before anyone else Jigs & Fixtures: 8 Simple Solutions for Better Work

  
   
 
              
 Set-up to glue-up
These are family heirlooms
in minutes

Precision woodworking
has never been easier.

• Mortise & Tenon

• Box Joints
and Dovetails
• Easy to Use 80%
8 0%% off all problems
prroblems in wood projects are caused by b
• Ideal for both hobby m oisturre con
moisture ntent issues.
content i i k and
A quick d simple,
i l non-damaging
non-da
damamagingingg
and professional moisture
m oisture memeter
eter reading can save you from angry ccustomer
cus
ustom mer
me
woodworkers calls,
ccaalls,, unn
unnecessary
necesssary repair time, and a bad reputation.
reputationn. Call
Caall
ttoday
od
odayay and
and learn
leearn why Wagner’s
Wagners industry-leading
industry leading Or rion
Orion
meters
m
met
meeterrs may
et maay just be the most important tool for your
yoour shop.
sho opp.
See videos and get more project ideas at
www.PantoRouter.com or call (877) 333-7150 1-800-505-1405
800-
1-800 505-1405
1405 WagnerMeters.com
Wag
gner
nerM
Meters
ters.co
com
m
 Making a Traditional
Wooden Spokeshave
This ancient tool is as at
home in the shop today as it
was in the fifteenth century.
By Rusty Tchernis
PHOTOS BY LOGAN WITTMER

PROJECT #2305_
Skill Level:
Intermediate
Time: 1 Day
Cost: $75
Of all the edge tools one can
make at home, the spokeshave
is arguably the easiest one to
make. It is basically a handle for
the blade, and blades are widely
available. I will be using the small
Hock blade. Unlike with a plane,
there is very little that needs to
be precise, and a lot of the work is
freehand work. It is a great feeling
to sit on a shaving horse, or stand
at the bench, and use the tool you
made yourself.

Why Use a Round 1

Wooden Spokeshave?
There are many great spokeshaves
available in the marketplace, some 1 Antique spokeshaves come in a variety of shapes and sizes.
metal and some wooden bodied.
No matter which material the
shave is made of, there are three blade is only 11/ 2" wide, I feel like I to those because the sole of the
things that separate the round am still able to both skew and slice shave will wear quickly with use.
wooden shave from the rest of the with it, that is, holding the shave at The size of the blank I use is 1"
spokeshave styles: an angle to the wood and moving it wide, 11" long, and 3/4" thick. The
First, it gives you the ability from one corner of the blade to the 3/4" dimension is the only im-
to take a thin or thick shaving other. If there is one thing I learned portant dimension because of the
without having to adjust the from Greg Pennington, it is that length of the tangs on the small
blade. Because of the curvature “skew and slice makes things nice!” Hock blade. It is also important
of the sole, all you have to do is that the blank is perfectly square.
adjust the angle at which you are Determining Tool Details Next, I find the center line and
presenting the blade to the work I have a number of antique transfer my half pattern to two
surface—the steeper the angle, spokeshaves. Most of them are adjacent faces. You might want to
the thinner the shaving. For exam- made from boxwood and beech. give a little thought to which side
ple, what I like to do when using a My favorite shape was from a you would want to be the top and
tool like this is to start the shave spokeshave by T. Pilkington, made
positioned too steep, where I can’t around the 1860s. I based my
take a shaving, and slowly rotate design on the dimensions of that
the shave flatter until I can take a shave. To learn a little bit more
really thin shaving. As you rotate about the history of spokeshaves
it one more degree, the shavings and T. Pilkington, check out “A
will get thicker. This is similar to Note on History and Inspiration”
“riding the bevel” in woodturning. on page 28.
Second, I am also partial to the
round shave because of its versatility Preparing the Blank
in the sense that it can get into tight I start with a straight-grained
curves, comparable to a cigar shave. blank of hard timber. I have tried
These tight curves include concave a number of different timbers,
areas like the inside bends of chair both domestic and exotic. My fa-
legs and Windsor chair seats. vorite one is jatoba, because it is
Finally, you can use this shave readily available, often as flooring,
both on the pull and the push! and hard enough not to require 2
Some prefer to use them on the a wear strip in front of the blade.
push only, and I do find that there I have used softer timbers, like 2 Transfer the top profile from a
is a different level of control with maple and padauk, but I would pattern onto the hardwood blank.
different motions. Though the recommend adding a wear strip

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 23
 Traditional Spokeshave

bottom of the shave— you will be

looking at the top of this tool for
many years to come, so choose the
best-looking side for the top.

Marking the Blade Posts

This step requires a certain level of
precision—marking the location
of the posts of the blade. I do this
with calipers, using them like
dividers. To measure the distance 3 4
between centers, you can measure
the outside of the two posts and
3-4 Take precise measurements. First measure from post to post, then
subtract the post size. For the
measure the diameter of each post.
small Hock blade, this distance is
2 1/4". I mark the location of the 5-6 Transfer the post measurements to the hardwood blank. Use the inside-
posts on either side of the center measurement prongs on the caliper to transfer the measurement points.
line, using dividers or calipers, 7 Now, transfer the front pattern to the hardwood blank.
about 3/8" from the top of the
blank. Then I transfer the location 8 Before cutting away any waste for the blade mortise, it’s best to make a
to the other side of the blank so saw kerf to help remove most of the handle waste.
that I can drill from both sides to
avoid chipout.

Shape the Handles

Before I can drill the mortises for
the blade posts, I make the saw
cuts for the handles. You can deal
with the handles later after the
blade is seated, but I learned to do
it first after I broke an ebony blank
making this saw cut. Introduc-
ing the mortises into the blank
weakens it substantially, and to be
on the safe side, I make those two
saw cuts first. 5 6

7 8

24 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 11

9 10

9-10 The mortises for blade posts are drilled in two steps. Start with a
quarter inch drill bit and drill 1/8" deep mortise from the bottom to accom-
modate the blade ends. Finally, drill with a 5/32" bit from the top.
11 With the blade seated in the holes, transfer the blade shape to the blank.
12 Use a chisel to define the walls of the blade throat.
13 A pull saw cuts the remainder of the throat.
12
The reason for the saw cuts is
to have a relatively flat part on the
handle to put the maker’s mark
(the extra work I do to appease
my ego). I used to remove this
waste with a draw knife, but it was
taking too long to make a flatbed
for the stamp, and the saw makes
it much easier.

Back to Seating the Blade

After the kerfs are cut, I get back to
seating the blade. I drill about 1/8" 13
of an inch deep from the bottom
with a quarter inch bit. These two are made on an angle defining the front edge of the blade. Because
mortises will fit the outside of the mouth of the shave and the back these two cuts will remain visible
blade. Then I drill through with a of the throat. I prefer to care- in the shave, I use my finest saw to
5/32" bit in a push drill. It takes a fully define the saw walls with a make them.
minute to drill through jatoba with marking knife and a chisel to avoid Next, we need to remove the
this bit, but it leaves a clear surface, chipout. This is one of the two waste, and it can be a little tricky,
and it’s easy to keep plumb. crosscut saw cuts on the shave, particularly if the grain does not
With the mortises drilled, I in- and in this spot it really matters. run perfectly straight. It is very
sert the blade and draw its outline. I mark a line at the back of the easy to get a little chipout since
Then I carefully mark the two shave about an 1/8" from the top you will likely by chopping across
lines for the throat. These lines and saw at an angle until I connect the grain. I find that the best thing
follow the sides of the blade and this line to the line marking the to do is remove the waste with the

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 25
 Traditional Spokeshave

14 15
chisel within an 1/8" from the lines
and then clean up the throat with
a Sloyd knife. As for the final lev-
eling, I like to use a float or a file.
It is important to create the space
for the blade to be able to fit first
before starting to set the blade.
To set the blade, I need to remove
two small chips between the blade
mortises and the throat. The Hock
blade is exactly a 1/4" in that di-
mension, so a 1/4" chisel is the right
tool. I sneak up on the final depth 16 17
slowly, testing the fit often. It is
easier to set the blade upside down 14 After wasting out the throat with a chisel, clean up and flatten the
and pointing backwards because throat of the spokeshave using a float and files.
you don’t have to take the blank out
of the vise to do it. I set the blade 15 Transfer and define the edges of the blade post stems with a chisel,
almost flush and then open up the then remove the waste, creating a mortise for the blade.
mouth using a float. I find that the 16 Check the fit of the blade. Here, the right side fits perfectly, but the
mouth of 10 thou (0.010) works left side needs to be cut a little deeper.
well for fine work and I use a feeler
17 After the blade is seated, check the fitting of the blade. A 0.010 feeler
gauge to make sure it is even across.
should slip evenly under the blade.
The last step to make the shave op-
erational is to relieve the corner in 18 With the fettling done, now you can shape the handles. Use a chisel
front of the blade and to introduce to waste away the material down to the saw kerf.
a graduated curvature. I do the first
part with a spokeshave and then
sand the curve even on a sheet of
sandpaper over a flat granite plate. A
few test cuts at different angles give
me a good idea if the mouth is even,
shavings exit cleanly and whether
the thickness of the shavings is
acceptable.

Finalizing Spokeshave
Once the blade is set, the rest of
the work is mostly ornamental, but
it also takes the most time. Once
I remove most of the waste with a
chisel, I mark the middle line on
the handles and start finely shaping
the shave with a spokeshave and 18

26 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
19 20

19 As with the other face of the

handle, define the edge of the
handles with a saw.
20 Chisel away the waste, small
chunks at a time.
21-22 Now, it’s time to shape the
handles with another spokeshave.
If you don’t have another shave, a
file and rasp work as well.

files. There are three places on

the spokeshave that I prefer to
leave sharp corners until the final
sanding. Those are the three areas
where I hold the shave—ends of
the handles, sides of the round
front, and sides of the throat. I find
that this contrast between round
and sharp areas help with control
and provide a certain elegance. 21 22

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 27
 Traditional Spokeshave

■ A Note on History & Inspiration

Spokeshaves have been around for Thomas Pilkington was born in 1826. “The Ultimate Brace” book by Reg
centuries. The first mention of a spoke- He later shows up in the census of Eaton and has received a patent for
shave goes back to 1454, to the days 1851 and 1861, where he listed as his invention in that area.
before Columbus sailed in the search a “brace bit filer” and the head of
of the fountain of youth. I doubt much the household of 8 people — he must Of course, I don’t know for sure if that
has changed over the years in the basic have been really good with the file. stamp on my shave corresponds to this
design, although there are fantastic He had a long career with a number T. Pilkington, but I choose to think that it
spokeshaves available in the market. of partners and ordered a full line of does. And knowing how good he was at
joiners’ tools. It is likely though that file work, practicing on the brace bits for
As I mentioned earlier, my shave is those tools were not made in his firm as all those years, I wonder if, maybe, he
based on a boxwood shave stamped it only employed one man and two boys. may have made this for his personal use.
with the name T. Pilkington of Sheffield. His company went out of business in I find this story unlikely, but it inspires
It was not easy to get much information 1871, and Thomas passed away in me to continue to use fine tools that
about him, but I believe it stands for Manchester in 1898, where he had are passed down through generations.
Thomas Peacock Pilkington. With the retired as a grocer. Today, Thomas I try and honor the craftsmanship of
help of some friends from across the Pilkington is most remembered for other tool markers in my own work,
pond, I learned a few things about him. his brace work. He is mentioned in and hope you will as well!

23 24

23 A coat of Tru-Oil is a beautiful

finish for this tool.
24 A top coat of wax helps the
shavings escape easily.
25-27 One of the keys to a
working spokeshave is a sharp
blade. Sharpen the blade on the
25 edge of water stones, making
sure to work the back to remove
27 the burr.

After the final sanding, I apply I wait a day between coats and use
a coat of finish. The first coat is a fine sandpaper, 400-600 grit.
mainly to help me see all the spots The last thing I do is to give
I missed and go back to sanding. I the blade a little honing on a fine
use 2 types of finish, depending stone and a strop and a coat of wax,
on the wood species—shellac and which I buff out with a horse-hair
26 Tru-Oil. For jatoba, I prefer Tru-Oil. brush. PW – Rusty Tchernis

28 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
BESSEY EHK Trigger Clamps
BESSEY Tool’s reputation for quality, value and user-focused German engineering continues to
build a brand that professionals can turn to with confidence. Since 1889, our focus on clamping
tool development and continuous improvement has created clamps that get the job done with
a focus that none can match. At BESSEY, we don’t also make clamps, we only make clamps.
BESSEY EHK Series of trigger clamps; clamping force from 40 lbs to 600 lbs; capacity from 41⁄2" to 50".

BESSEY. Simply better.

besseytools.com
 Veneered
Chessboard
It’s easy to create a veneered chessboard with
an inlay accent, using a minimal number of tools.
By Scott Grove

PROJECT #2306_
Skill Level:
Intermediate
Time: 2 Days
Cost: $125 PHOTOS BY LOGAN WITTMER

Everyone loves a beautiful crease creative possibilities in any

chessboard, and this project woodworking project. In this arti- Want the full
makes a perfect gift for playing cle, I will review this easy process, dimensions?
or a fun charcuteries board. Plus, walk through it step by step, and You can find them at
it’s a great adult-child project. show how to avoid and overcome www.popwood.com/April2023
You can also use these skills to in- possible pitfalls.

30 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
Overview an average 17" diameter by 10' requires only a little over one
The chessboard pattern uses eight long log yields approximately square foot and using a rare and/or
strips of contrasting veneer. Typ- 200 board feet. That same log cut highly figured veneer adds a higher
ically, a board is 12" x 12" square into veneer generates 10,000 aesthetic value and that wow
and each check is 11/2". Eight 11/2" square feet. factor we all love. Select a mini-
squares equal 12". Often there is a • Better availability as some mum of 13" in length for cutting
perimeter border to frame in the species are only obtainable continuous strips.
field of play. in veneer. Veneer can arrive flat, smooth
The board is made by cutting • Easy to ship. and supple, or wrinkly and brittle.
and seaming eight strips of veneer • More stability. Flat and pliable veneer is much
together and alternating the • More sustainable: easier to work with. Gnarly veneer
contrasting colors to a 13" x 13" Veneer yields 42 times more can be conditioned to make it soft
panel. (I make the board oversized square footage than hardwood. and flat. For a video on condi-
first— more on that later). Then I Kerf cuts in hardwood is wasted tioning veneer, visit my YouTube
recut the striped panel into eight while veneer is sliced into leaves channel, ImagineGrove Woodwork-
more pieces at 90° to the seam. with no kerf. ing, and look for “Conditioning
Retaping the newly cut pieces and and Flattening Veneer.”
rotating every other strip 180° Select the Veneer Select two contrasting veneers
yields a chessboard. Viola! Add Veneer is available in a wide and a border veneer, and consider
some inlay and a perimeter ve- variety of species and figures and additional inlay(s) you might add,
neer border with a waterfall is typically 1/42" thick. I suggest like a nautilus star. Look for a nau-
edge and you have a wood- spending as much as you can on tilus star inlay project in an upcom-
working project that is the veneer because a chessboard ing article of Popular Woodworking.
truly spectacular.

Why Veneer?
Wood veneer has many advantages
over hardwood:
• Wider variety of highly figured
species and readily available.
• More cost effective.
• Easier workability than hard
wood.
• Provides the highest quality:
Typically, when a highly figured 1
tree is discovered during the cut-
ting (felling) process, it’s sent to 1 The styles and combinations of veneer are countless. Here, I’ve selected
the veneer plant because it will some quilted mahogany, curly maple, and dyed veneer.
yield a higher price. For example,

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 31
 Veneered Chessboard

Create a Cutting Template sand the CA edge with 320 grit more times than I’d like to admit
Cut a 1/2" thick piece of MDF ex- paper on a flat surface. Add a strip and is especially important when
actly 11/2" wide and a minimum of of fine grit PSA sandpaper to the children are involved.
19" long and be sure it’s perfectly bottom side for “gription.” (I love Make a second straight edge,
straight. This can be done by join- that word.) same as above without the hot
ing or sanding one edge on a flat For safety, add a bead of hot glue or sandpaper, and double
machine table first, then ripping glue 1/8" back from the edge on the stick this to one edge of the
it to 11/2" wide. Seal the edges and top face, which helps prevent your cutting mat (18" x 24" is a good
harden the fibers with one coat fingers from overhanging during size). MDF also makes a good
of thin CA glue. Once dry, lightly the cutting process. This happens cutting surface.

2 The cutting template needs to

be the precise width you need for
your veneer strips.
3 Harden the edge of the template
with thin super glue.
4 “Joint” the edge of the template
by sanding the edge.
5 A bead of hot glue adds a tactile
boundary point to the guide to
keep your fingers safe from the
blade.
2 3

4 5

Cut the Veneer Strips

Cross cut the veneer at least 12"
cross grain and 13" in length and
cut one side straight. I use a break-
away style knife and make a few
light cuts, making sure to keep
the veneer flat by pressing the
straightedge firmly down. This is
very important to achieve a clean
straight cut.
Push the veneer tightly against
6
the straight edge on the mat; use
the cutting template to cut three 6 Large, heavy-duty scissors work well to trim the veneer to length.
11/2" wide x 13" long strips and

32 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 7 Trim the stock edge straight.
8 Use one template to register the
edge of the veneer, and then use
the second to position your cut.
9 A spacer allows you to make a
strip wider than the rest.

one slightly wider ~2" of each col-

or. I use a 1/2" scrap piece of MDF
as a spacer between the straight
edge and the cutting template to
easily create the parallel wider
7 strips. Again, hold the veneer
firmly down flat while cutting and
make a few light passes through
the veneer. Did I mention how
important this is?

Seam and Tape

Using a veneer tape (a thin, mois-
ture-activated paper tape), tape
the strips together (and now I’ve
written the word tape too many
times!). TIP: Use distilled water for
veneer tape because some tap water
can stain veneer.
Some people like to use light-
tack painter’s masking tape, but
I strongly recommend against it.
Masking tape is harder to remove,
can tear the grain, and will build
up in thickness with multiple
8 overlapping layers which can leave

■ Tools & Supplies

• Veneer
• Break away expendable
utility knife
• Calipers
• Table saw
• Vacuum bag press or
clamps and cauls
• White glue & Thin CA glue
• Double stick tape
• Cutting mat (18" x 24")
• Random orbital sander
• PSA sandpaper
• Router with 1/8" bit
9

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 33
 Veneered Chessboard

10 11

12 13

an impression into the veneer

during the pressing process.
Lightly dampen a short 1"
piece of veneer tape with a
moistened sponge or veneer
tape dispenser and tape two
contrasting strips of veneer
together tightly, starting in the
middle. To set the adhesive,
use a household iron set at low
(275°) or the nylon setting. This
holds the veneer firmly in place
and evaporates excess moisture.
It also allows me to keep work-
ing without the risk of the tape
slipping while still wet. When
using an iron, use only the very
tip on the tape and do not heat 14
the surrounding veneer with the
entire iron footprint, which can 10-11 Veneer tape is used to fasten the strips together. This tape has
dry out and shrink the veneer. water-activated adhesive. Applying the tape and ironing it with a hot iron
Hold the veneer seam tightly rapidly sets the adhesive.
together and work outward from
the center, adding tape along the 12-13 After seaming the strips together, use a square to define a right-
way. In some cases, I apply a cen- angle. Then, start trimming the strips to width.
ter piece of tape, and then one at 14 As before, after trimming strips, create one wider strip using a spacer.
each end if the seam is tight.

34 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Afterwards, I tape over the Assemble Final Sizing
entire seam with a 13" long piece Working from the bottom (the un- Using the cutting template, align
of tape. It’s important that the taped veneer side), rotate every one edge to the last outside seam
entire seam is taped over. After other strip 180°, align the center of the wider strips on all four sides
the six 11/2" alternating strips are square intersections, and tempo- and mark with a fine pencil. This
seamed together, place the wider rarily tape together with painter’s will define the perimeter of the
pieces on each side and tape. masking tape. Finish with the board as these wider pieces will
Lastly, with an accurate square, wider veneer strips on each side need to be cut down to 11/2".
cut one straight edge 90° to the as before. Flip the entire grouping Check the squareness by mea-
taped seams, working from the over and tape the top side with suring the diagonal, corner to cor-
bottom (the un-taped side). Do- veneer tape; be sure to keep the ner where the new pencil marks
ing so, allows you see the veneer seams tight together as you go cross. You might need to make a
seams clearly to align the square. and tape all of the seams. I also minor adjustment, which can be
Now repeat the above strip cut- tape the perimeter to protect the fudged, typically by a scooch (a
ting process and cut six strips at veneer from too much handling. term I use that means less than
11/2" width and remember to cut Once fully taped, remove the blue 1/32"). Once you confirm square-
two extra-wide ones too. painter’s tape. ness, cut the perimeter veneer

15

15 Line up the seams and “tack

them” with blue painter’s tape.
16 After flipping the veneer over,
apply a liberal amount of veneer
tape to the seams.
16

17

17 Mark the perimeter using the

template.
18 A beam compass is an easy
way to check the board for square.
18

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 35
 Veneered Chessboard

19 20

22

19 Position the border veneer and

tack it in place with blue tape.

21 20 As with the board, use veneer

tape to attach the border.

panel to end up with a square 12" Cut the Veneer Miter 21 Carefully mark the center of
x 12" chessboard pattern, which is We’ll make these veneer miter the board and draw diagonal
ready for a border. seams align perfectly with the reference lines.
chessboard corners — and I mean 22 Use a utility knife to cut the
The Border perfectly align! Now it’s time to miters on the border.
Oversized veneer strips with cut the MDF panel core to the ex-
enough leftover makes a perfectly act size of the finished board. In
aligned, 2" wide, grain matched this case, I cut a 1/2" piece of MDF Registration
border that waterfalls over the to 16" x 16". You’ll want to make While the core is still perfectly
edge. Now we cut four 3" wide sure it’s perfectly square. When aligned on the veneer, add short
veneer strips that are 18" long. Tape you’re sure it’s square, dou- blocks with a small piece of
these strips to the perimeter of the ble-check its squareness again. double- sided tape and stick them
checkerboard and leave the corners Set the MDF core onto the veneer down and around the perimeter.
overlapping. These will be cut later and confirm that the overlapped This acts as a placement registra-
to create a perfect miter seam. To miter corner pencil lines align tion when pressing.
define the overall size of the board perfectly. Again, a minor adjust- Now that we know that every-
(16" x 16"), draw a perimeter line ment can be fudged on the veneer thing lines up and it has register
from the chessboard perimeter miter for perfect alignment. Be blocking, cut the veneer miters
seam with a 2" wide x 18" MDF sure to make a reference mark to through both layers at once; press-
spacer. Draw the miter seams using match the MDF with the veneer ing down on your straight edge;
the chessboard corners for align- so if the panel gets turned around making 2-3 light cuts; and tape
ment and run the pencil line along. the alignment will still be good. them together.

36 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Backer Veneer to use for a more elegant presen-
23 Small blocks help register the All veneered panels must have tation. It does not have to be a
MDF core on the veneer. veneer on both sides of the panel, chessboard pattern.
24 Some last minute veneer tape which creates a “balanced panel”
helps keep everything aligned. and prevents the panel from Press
warping. For the backer, cut and There are several ways to press
25 Prep the back as well.
seam together more veneer that veneer, including platens; criss-
26 I prefer a white PVA glue for is a little larger than the overall crossing cauls and clamps; using
applying veneer instead of a board, 161/2" x 161/2". You can an industrial hot press, or for hob-
veneer or yellow glue. use “backer veneer,” which is less byist and small shops, a vacuum
27 A vacuum press and bag expensive, a completely differ- bag is by far the way to go. They
squeezes the veneer together. ent veneer, or one of the board are very effective and roll up for
species you have already chosen out-of-the-way storage.

23 24

25

26 27

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 37
 Veneered Chessboard

The bottom line on pressing

veneer is to apply an even amount
of glue with even pressure. Lay the
backer veneer, tape side down, on
a smooth flat piece of melamine
(or MDF covered with craft
paper). Apply a thin coat of white
glue (3 mil thick) to the MDF
core with a roller or fine notched
trowel (such as Ace Hardware's
Item no. 19120). Flip the core
onto the veneer and slide it into
the vacuum bag.
Press for about one hour to
allow the glue to obtain its initial 28
tack. Cut the excess overhanging
veneer and press the top veneer
in the same manner. Be sure to
keep the orientation in the same
direction and drop the glued core
in between the alignment blocks
for perfect registration.
For full adhesion, keep this final
pressing in the bag for at least
six hours. A full cure can take 24
hours out of the bag.

After Pressing
Remove the panel from the
press, twist off the registration
blocks and cut the excess veneer
off, and number these veneer
strips to the core’s edge. These
will be used to veneer the edges 29
and provides the grain to water-
fall over the edge for a perfect
match. Lightly sand the core 28 After the board is pressed, remove the veneer tape. A damp sponge
edges with a flat sanding block reactivates the adhesive and lets you pull off most of the tape easily.
to remove any fuzz, being sure to 29 For stubborn bits and any left over adhesive, use a card scraper—it’s
keep the sides square. safer than sanding because you can quickly sand through the veneer.
Lightly moisten the veneer
tape with a damp sponge to
soften the adhesive and peel them now than after finishing. your iron to 200° or the delicate
it off. Clean up the remaining On my veneer pressing projects, setting, then heat the bubble (and
surface with a card scraper and even without any veneer tape, I just the bubble) with the tip on the
remove the last bits of tape and lightly wipe the entire surface with iron to press it back down. Then
glue glaze (glue that has seeped a damp sponge first to reveal any using a block of wood or a roller,
through the veneer to the top lose veneer. continue to press the veneer down
surface, which will look shiny or Bubbles can be caused by too until the glue cools. (A steel roller
whiteish from the water). much glue, not enough glue, the is best because the metal acts as
glue started to dry and glaze over a heat sink and cools the glue fast
Need Repairs? before it adhered to the veneer, for re-adhesion). If the bubble is
If any bubbles appear in the veneer or from not enough or uneven starving for glue, inject a small
from the moisture, don’t panic— clamping pressure. No matter the amount into it, then iron and
this is a good thing! I’d rather find reason, bubbles are easy to fix. Set clamp it down flat.

38 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
30 31 32

30 To fix a bubble, use a hot iron 31 A heavy metal roller can be used 32 For larger bubbles, use a
(no steam) to reactivate the glue. to press the bubble back down. needle filled with glue.

Edges
Now’s the time to glue on the
edges with the corresponding
veneer cut off strips that you
trimmed earlier. Spend a mo-
ment to confirm that the grain is
aligned between the top and the
cutoff. Apply a thin coat of glue to
the chessboard’s MDF edge and
stand the panel up onto the ve-
neer cut off strips. Be sure it is on
a smooth flat surface; I like to use
melamine or MDF with packing
tape to create a non-stick surface.
Since the panel is 16" wide,
you will need only two clamps to
disperse the pressure evenly down
to the veneer edging. Be sure that
panel is square and perpendicular
to the clamping surface.
After about 15 minutes, trim
the overhanging veneer while the
panel is still clamped and glue the
next side, repeating the process
for the remaining edges. After
all the sides are completed, hand
sand the edges and ever-so-slight-
ly bevel the veneer to the top and
bottom faces with a 320-grit pa-
per of sandpaper on a hard block.
Sand the entire surface with
180-grit sandpaper using a ran-
dom orbital sander and be careful 33
not to over sand the edges (an
easy place to sand through the ve-
neer). Apply a sealer coat of gloss 33 Trim the veneer and glue the trimming onto the edge of the board. This
lacquer to seal the grain before creates a “waterfall” edge, and gives the appearance of solid wood.
the perimeter inlay.

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 39
 Veneered Chessboard

Hooray for Inlay

Adding a perimeter inlay accent
creates an impressive artistic pop
of color or wow to your chess-
board. It also adds a higher price
point if you’re selling them (and
cover up bad and/or open seams,
in case you have them).
You can use a contrasting wood
species, silver, paua abalone strips,
cultured opal, turquoise, or in this
case, mother of pearl (MOP). I
like laser-cut inlay strips because
I know they are perfectly parallel
and a consistent width.
To cut a precise pocket, take a
router with a 1/8" bit, and place the
MOP under the base. Drop the bit to
the work surface (a scrap test piece
of MDF), then remove the MOP
and perform a test cut to confirm
the depth is correct. Digital calipers
are handy for this operation.
For minor adjustments, place a
piece of paper or card stock on the
bottom of the router base to raise
or lower the cut by a scooch. Use 34

34 Use a router to create a groove

for an inlay strip.
35 Easy Inlay strips can be
trimmed with a chisel.
36 The strips are adhesive
backed and pressed into place.

35 36

40 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
37 38

39 40

37 Ensure good adhesion by

width cuts and testing is always a with masking tape and fill the en-
rolling the strips down.
good idea. I like to leave my inlay a tire taped void with wood filler that
hair high so it can be flushed down matches the border veneer. This
38 Use a cabinet scraper to flush to the veneer. ensures that any minor gaps will be
the inlay to the rest of the board. Once the inlay kerf is cut into filled, and this method gets them
39 Fill any small gaps in between the board, pre-miter the MOP with all at once. After the filler is dry,
the board and inlay with a solvent- a 45° square and chisel or utility remove the tape, which leaves the
based filler. knife. Easy inlay MOP has a very filler slightly high, then sand it off
strong PSA backing: peel it off and leaving only filled gaps, and move
40 Thin CA glue wicks down into
the gaps around the inlay, fills
place the first corner in the groove. to the next side.
them, and seals the MOP down.
Work your way around, dry fitting Sand the entire piece again with
each piece, and carefully match 220-grit and finish with a few coats
the butt and mitered corners of lacquer, sanding in between
this method to adjust the width tightly before adhering with the coats. You can add wooden or rub-
of the cut by adding shim stock PSA backing. Once it’s installed, ber feet to the underside for some
onto the router fence. press it one more time with a steel grip and to allow the board to float.
Use a light re-positionable roller and flush the MOP to the With a little practice and care-
spray adhesive to hold the paper veneer using a card scraper or 320- fully selected veneer, you can
in place (the adhesive residue grit sandpaper. Fill any butt or mi- create an eye-catching chessboard
can be cleaned off with mineral ter seam gaps with crushed MOP that will add beauty and magic to
spirits in the future). The finest dust and a drop of thin CA glue. your play. But maybe I’ll start with
adjustments can be made with this To tighten up the inlay aesthetic, checkers. It’s your move!
method on both the height and tape off both sides of the strip seam PW – Scott Grove

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 41
Coopered Seat
Building a sculptured rocker starts with a coopered seat.
Or as I call it, "The Big Smile Seat!"
By Charles Brock

PROJECT #2307_
Skill Level:
Intermediate
Time: 2 Days
Cost: $85

PHOTOS BY LOGAN WITTMER

A Maloof style chair design
(rocker, low back, or settee)
represents some of the best in
seating with extraordinary form
and function. The entire chair’s
flowing lines and gentle s-curves
fit the sitter and the coopered seat
adds to this ergonomic fit mak-
ing it the key to this build. The
seat’s pommel centers the sitter,
the deck provides locations for
spindle mortises and leg to seat
joinery, and the seat bowl wraps
around and supports the sitter.
These characteristics can only best
by accomplished by crafting
a coopered seat.
At my shop, I offer instruction
for two coopered seats: The Reg-
ular Smile Seat taught in my video
series and in-person classes and
The Big Smile Seat. The former has
fewer bevels and easier bandsaw
cuts. The Big Smile Seat is the deep-
est and is more difficult. Don’t
let that stop you tough. I’ll teach
you to master this seat and it will
make your chair, your seat, and
your work have a Big Smile!
Every village in North America
once had a cooper. They build bar-
rels and buckets by beveling each
edge of a board and arraying them
in a circle before placing a hoop
around them. To make a coopered
chair seat, the beveled edges (my
choice is 3°) work to create a
slighter curve that functions won-
derfully as a comfortable beautiful
seat. No hoop is necessary!
Today’s reproductions of Wind-
sor, Welsh Stick and Stacked Chairs,
and some Maloof style reproduc-
tions have seats that are somewhat
similar but are not coopered and
have no smile. They appear to have
a raised deck and a pommel made
by excavating a seat bowl in one
or more seat boards joined at 90°
angles to each other. Seat bowls
vary in depth and contour by style.
Methods of excavations and tools
used also vary. Grinders, routers,

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 43
 Coppered Seat

and even CNCs may be used by edges to provide for the seat to leg and #5 for leg joinery and knots or
some to dig the wood out. Purists joinery opportunities. anything noxious might become
might favor travishers, scorps, and NOTE: Each board must be face waste while excavating the tops of
scrapers to excavate the bowl and jointed, planed to thickness, and seat boards #2, #3, and #4. Also
shape the pommel. Especially with crosscut square to length with all look for enhancing grain and color.
grinders and routers, all the wood edges jointed. Anything less will Placement of your best-looking
removed is in the form of dust. I am make executing accurate seat to leg board in the center might be benefi-
still cleaning up my shop and lungs joinery almost impossible. cial. Decide what looks best. You do
from grinding one of these seats out Lay out the boards side by side. not have to alternate the direction
in 2006. On the other hand, my coo- Examine each board for knots or of growth rings as you often do
pered seat in the Maloof tradition other situations that might either when building a tabletop. Square up
is mostly excavated with a bandsaw enhance the panel or become a the array of boards along the back
using a 1/2" resaw blade, grinder, problem. Remember you will be edge using a carpenter’s square.
hand tools, and a better strategy. removing some stock on boards #1 Then use it to draw a straight line

Wood Choice and

Stock Preparation
I like to start with a good domestic
hardwood like walnut, cherry, or
even maple. Figured woods look
great for this seat, but maybe for
your second chair. You will need
5 boards to create a coopered seat
panel. With some thought any odd
number of boards (greater than
3) can be used. The idea is for the
center board to be the lowest in
the coopered panel while board #1
and #5 flatten out the smile at the 1

2 3

1-3 Start by marking reference

lines for the Dominos. I mark three
locations across the seat, and
then transfer the marks along the
mating edges.
4 With the seat laid out as it will
be glued up, draw exaggerated
bevel lines on the ends of the
boards for reference as you cut.
4

44 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
across the panel about 11/4" from Dominos (8mm x 50mm), bis- the acute angle, rotate the Domino
the back using a red pencil or mak- cuits, or dowels strengthening fixed fenced up keeping the fence
er. This will visually help you keep and referencing the joint between firmly against the 3° board edge
everything square, especially when boards. To identify locations for of the tool against the table saw
gluing up. Lastly, number the seat your Dominos or biscuits, mea- top. Plunge in and retreat before
board #1– #5 on the top face and sure 5" from the back of the panel lowering the tool.
front of each board. and use a carpenter’s square to Do the same thing on each loca-
draw a short line at each joint tion for the inside edges of boards
Make a Coopered Panel location across the panel. Do the #2 and #4. The outside edges of
Mark the 3° bevel placements on same 5" from the front and split these two boards and the inside
the ends of each board. In a five- the difference between the two edge of boards #1 and #5 require
board coopered panel, the center for the locations in the middle of the use of the articulating fence
(#3) board will be shaped like a the panel. Using a small square to on the domino. Because the fence
trapezoid after cutting the bevel make a line down the inside edge will not accommodate an acute
on each edge. Boards #2 and #4 of all the location marks. Mark angle (less than 90°) you must
will be shaped like a parallelogram an X at the bottom of the line to change the mortising strategy.
and boards #1 and #5 will have denote the location of the domino Flip the board over. With the seat
their inside edges beveled. on the lower edge of the board. It board bottom up and articulating
Make the markings highly visi- is a shame to dig into one when fence loose, place the fixed fence
ble and overstated so you get the sculpting the seat! against the board edge and adjust
proper board orientation when Begin cutting the mortise or bis- the articulating fence until all
cutting the bevels on the jointer cuit slots starting with seat board the fences are flush. That should
or the table saw. If you cut them #3. I recommend placing the board be the 3° you need. Tighten the
on the table saw, use a glue joint on your table saw top and bracing it fence. Find the centerline of the
rip blade for stock greater than 1" against the fence. This method pro- domino’s mortise on the side
with triple chip grind. vides good support while cutting already cut and set a wheel type
Each edge joint will have three the mortise or biscuit slots. To get marking gauge at that measure-

5 6

5-6 Tilt the table saw blade

3°. I use a digital angle gauge
to make sure that this is accu-
rate. Then, bevel the edges of
the seat parts, making sure to
line up your reference marks
with the tilt of the blade.
7 While at the table saw, I use
the rip fence as a stop and cut
Domino slots. The cast iron
surface of the saw is a good
reference for the Domino and
the workpiece.
7

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 45
 Coppered Seat

ment. Then mark the locations for Prepare Before Carving out 10" to identify the 20" width
the mortises on the other boards Find the center of seat board #3 of the coopered panel. Mark and
opposite edge using the bottom of and make a strong, black marker rip the excess off the outside of
the board as reference. Complete line extending from the front boards #1 and #5 at the table saw.
the mortises and dry assemble to back including the ends. The Mark out and cut all the seat side
the seat panels with Dominos and centerline sets the symmetry for leg to seat joinery on seat board
clamps to ensure that all joints the seat panel and the chair. #1 and #5. My video series will
will close accurately. Next, measure the center line simplify this process.

8 9

8 Trace the seat pattern

to the seat, which has
been temporarily clamped
together.
9 Mark the location of the
pommel on board #3.
10 Trace the side profile
pattern onto both side of
10 board #3.

■ What Tools Do I Use?

• Marking tools: bevel gauge, – Spokeshaves • Misc. bits
dividers, marking knife, protractor, – 12" Cabinetmaker’s rasp (10 grain) – dowel, rabbeting, roundover bits
ruler, square, tape measure, yard stick – Modeler’s rasp (13 grain) – Shaft, sphere, ball nose burrs
• Layout tools: chalk, colored pencils – Combination rasp (5/9 grain)
• Sandpaper: 24 grit grinder paper,
(white, red, black), no. 2 pencils, – Various rifflers 60-400 grit sandpaper, 3M pad
and sharpies – Pattern makers vise (in maroon, gray, and white colors)
• Various tools – Dowel and fluting plates
– Dowel-It for 1/2" holes • Adhesives: Old Brown Glue and
– Block, jack, smoother, and router Titebond III glue
hand planes plus microplanes
– Curved blade tenon cutters
• Bandsaw and table saw blades
For brand recommendations, check
– Small-curved scrapers • Hardware: zinc plated screws, out my blog section on my website,
– Light and heavy scrapers dominos (8 x 50mm) CharlesBrockChairmaker.com.

46 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Carving a Seat Bowl
Use my “half seat pattern” or
make one to use when laying out
the seal bowl and deck. Mark
out your pommel on the center
line. It should be 5" in from the
front. Next, draw a s-curve on
each side of seat board #3. They
must match, so again use the
“seat board #3 side profile” from
my pattern set or make your own.
The curve should start at the
back of the seat bowl and extend
to the front of the seat. Make
sure you have the same align-
11 ment points. You will need to
come out 5" from the front of the
seat board so you don’t cut off
the pommel in front! Since you
have the 3° bevels on each board
edge, you must cut both edges
of the board at the bandsaw. It
will leave a little ridge down the
middle of your board.
Now use a grinder to remove
the wood around the pommel. I
use a grinder with 24 grit sand-
paper. You can also use a carbide
donut shaped grinding wheel
attached to a grinder to do the
same job. I like to be able to hook
12 up to the dust collection.

11-12 At the bandsaw, cut down the template line. 13-14 A rotary sander with a 24-grit sanding pad acts
Because of the bevel, you’ll need to cut from both as a grinder, and helps you smooth out the ridge and
edges, leaving a ridge down the center. remove the wood around the pommel.

13 14

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 47
 Coppered Seat

After grinding both sides of the

pommel, use board #3 to trace the
s-curve on the inside of seat boards
#2 and #4. You are going to scoop
out the deepest portion of the seat
bowl on seat boards #2 and #4 with
9° bandsaw cuts. They are mirrored
cuts on the bandsaw so be careful.
Extend your traced line on the
side of the board across the front
edge grain of the grain. make it
parallel to the board’s bottom. Use
that line when placing the board
on the bandsaw table to align the
blade with the line vertically. The
bandsaw table tilt should be about
3° for the cut. These are mirrored
cuts again, so think through your

15 Transfer the shape from board

#3 to boards 2 and 4. 15
16 Tilt the bandsaw table to 9°
and cut the waste away from bandsaw feed direction strategy It’s Time for Glue!
boards 2 and 4, but only in the before starting the cuts. Choose a glue with a generous
seat area. Now trace the outside edges of open time and with a transparent
#2 and #4 against the inside edges glue line. Use two clamps on the
17 Set the table back to 90° and
of #1 and #5. Then use a grinder bottom and a light duty clamp on
cut the remainder of the waste.
to shape #1 and #5. the top and leave it overnight.

16

18

18 The outside boards, #1 and #5, get shaped

with the rotary sander.
17

48 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 ■ Coopered Seat
1 1/4" Guideline for glue-up
HALF SEAT PATTERN
Half Seat
Pattern 5"

21"

(8mm x 50mm)
Dominoes
Domino
locations

1 2 3 4 5
5"
15/8"

Thigh Relief Radius 9 7/8" SIDE VIEW

TOP VIEW
NOTES: Walnut,
1 2 3 4 5 1 3/4" cherry, or maple is
recommended.
3° bevels FRONT VIEW 4 1/2"
Scale:
1 square = 1/2"
■ SCULPTURED ROCKER PLAN
BUNDLE BY CHARLES BROCK
CharlesBrockChairmaker.com
Price: $89.99

19-20 Spread glue on the seat parts, add the dominoes, and clamp it together.
I like to use an old gift card to get a thin, even layer of glue. Make sure that all of
the joints pull together nicely, and apply additional clamps as necessary.

19 20

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 49
 Coppered Seat

21

21-22 After the clamps have been removed, the final “guide lines”
can be re-drawn. This is for the final shape of the seat back, as
well as a couple of notches up front for thigh relief. The thigh relief
notches can be cut away at the bandsaw.
22

23 Before doing any sanding, I

like to draw guidelines showing
the deepest part of the seat, and
reference “rays” coming out of it.

Smooth Transitions
The next day, start smoothing the
transitions with a grinder while
working toward the bottom of
the seat bowl. I also find that a #3
by 35mm gouge can help when
cutting in around the seat bowl
line. Smooth the high spots with
a travisher when possible. If the
wood is figured, all bets are off!
Test the seat comfort by placing
it on a 5-gallon bucket. Scrape
and sand any spots necessary for
23 perfect form and function!

50 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
24

24 A grinder or sander with 24 grit paper sander can

be used to start shaping the seat bowl.
25 Highlight any ridges or areas that need additional
work with a wax pencil. 25

26 27

26-28 After much of the grunt

work is done, now comes the
handtools. I use a gouge, travisher,
and card scraper to help smooth
out and remove any grinding
marks left by the coarse paper.

It’s time for a celebration! You

have a beautiful, coopered seat,
now let’s craft the rest of this
great rocking chair together!
28 PW – Charles Brock

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 51
STICKLEY #630

Drop-Leaf Table
Quartersawn white oak
and classic construction
makes this Stickley
reproduction a welcome
addition to any collection.
By Willie Sandry

PROJECT #2308_
Skill Level:
Intermediate
Time: 3 Days
Cost: $250

PHOTOS BY WILLIE SANDRY AND LOGAN WITTMER

If you’re a fan of Gustav Stickley furniture, there

are a few rites of passage when building reproduction
furniture. A Morris chair certainly comes to mind and
perhaps a nightstand or sideboard if you’re feeling
ambitious. I think a drop-leaf table should grace that
list of must-build projects as well. Although originally
advertised as a sewing table, this little cabinet has been
offered in several iterations, while
maintaining the #630 designation.
Depending on the catalog year, you
may see it as a two or three drawer
version, but the overall dimensions
of the piece were the same.
Hardware choices changed over
the years as well—from classic
hammered copper bail pulls to
wooden knobs on later models.
Some pieces even featured inlaied
designs on the drop-leaves and
drawer fronts. It’s a great project
to further develop your skills and
features tapered legs, rule joints, 1
hinged corbels, and a lapped
dovetail rail. Any way you build it,
1 With several panels needed for the project, it makes sense to get gluing
the end result is a functional piece
first. Make 2 side panels, 1 back panel, and 3 panels for the top.
of furniture that easily transforms
from a small corner table to a large 2 Two approaches combine to make one great mortise. Start with a router
work surface. loaded with an edge guide and 1/4" upcut spiral bit. Start near the end,
being careful where the edge guide might lose contact with the leg. Then
Start with the Panels move the router back to complete the rest of the groove as usual.
Unlike many of Stickley’s later 3 Then switch to a hollow chisel mortiser to deepen the mortises in 3 spots.
designs that employed frame and
panel construction, the side and
back panels on this table are just
solid hardwood. The grain runs
horizontally in the finished project,
which does create a cross-grain
joint. At 13" wide, these panels are
about as wide as I’d feel comfort-
able using. Generally, anything
over a foot wide needs to accom-
modate wood movement, but we’ll
press our luck in the interest of an
authentic reproduction.
Glue up panels for the sides and
back, as well as the top panel and
two leaves. The drop-leaf panels 2 3
can remain extra-wide for now,
which will allow trimming to fit the other face until you have four setting up your mortiser. Just lay
once the table frame is constructed. nice square legs to work with. out the extent of the mortises and
The goal is to have the leaves hang To maintain adequate strength of cut them to a depth of 3/4". Luckily,
roughly even with the side panels these relatively thin legs, I divided the spacing of the three mortises is
when in the ‘down’ position. the long mortise into thirds. I ini- the same for all the legs. Please be
tially set out to cut these mortises aware that the location of these hy-
Legs Get Hybrid Mortises entirely with a handheld router and brid mortises sets the side panels
Mill a plank of 8/4 stock for the edge guide. However, after cutting close to the inside edge of the legs
legs and plane it to the 15/8" fin- the initial 1/8" deep groove, I felt it while the back panel is set close to
ished thickness. Rip the four legs might be easier to deepen the three the outside of the legs. This pro-
from the blank, allowing a little mortises with a hollow chisel mor- vides space for the hinged corbels
extra width in case one bows as tiser. This hybrid approach worked while at the same time preventing
you release it from the plank. Re- great, and the shallow groove the mortises from intersecting
joint an edge as needed and plane serves as a perfect reference for where they meet in the back legs.

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 53
 Drop-Leaf Table

5 6

4 Using a dado blade and an auxiliary fence, start with

traditional tenon cheeks at the table saw.
5 With the same fence and blade setting, turn the panel
on edge to remove the bottom 1/4" of the tenon. Use a
miter gauge with a sacrificial fence to control the cut.
Do this step only on the bottom edge.
6 Now raise the blade to 5/8" and turn the panel on
end. Remove the waste between the tenons, and
notch the upper tenon to fit.
7 Leave the tenons a little thick coming off the table
saw and fit the joints individually with a shoulder
plane. If you don’t have a shoulder plane, you can
make do with a sanding block. 7

Tenon Trifecta saw. Next, turn the panel on edge of mortises along the inside face of
Now cut tenons to match the mor- to create a shoulder on the lower the front legs. The upper mortise is
tises on the back and side panels. edge of the tenon. Finally, turn positioned horizontally to receive
The quickest way to accomplish the panel on end to remove the the drawer divider rail, while the
this, I think, is with a good dado waste between the tenons. The lower mortise is vertical. For exact
blade at the table saw. If you select top tenon is haunched to match dimensions, check out the project
a dado set with at least six teeth per the mortise. plans on page 59.
chipper, you’ll soon have smooth There are just a couple more
tenons ready for test fitting. details to complete before you can Drawer Rails
Instead of one long tenon, we’ll test fit the framework for the table Consider the three rails that
divide it into three parts. Start by base. Fine-tune the tenon fit with a form the drawer openings. These
establishing the tenon cheek with shoulder plane, aiming for an easy rails are all milled to the same
the workpiece flat on the table friction fit. Then complete the pair size. Form tenons on the lower

54 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 two rails in the traditional way, to the layout line. Then lower the
creating a uniform 3/16" shoulder, blade to 1/4" and nibble away the
so the parts will fit. The top rail waste underneath the dovetail. At
is a little different and receives this point, you have a shape that
a lapped dovetail joint where reminds me a little of a hammer-
it connects with the front legs. head shark. To finish the dovetail
It’s a traditional joint that you shape, trim the angle shape free-
might find in antique cabinets or hand at the bandsaw.
bookcases that, when taken step Once the lapped dovetail rail
by step, is actually pretty easy to is made, it’s a simple matter
cut. For mortise and tenon joints, of laying it in position on the
we usually cut the mortise first. table frame and tracing it with a
However, with lapped dovetails, marking knife. Darken your scribe
it’s the exact opposite. We’ll cut lines with a pencil and remove the
the tails first and use them to lay waste from the dovetail socket
out the sockets. Start by installing with a compact plunge router. A
8 a full kerf combination blade on spiral bit, along with multiple
the table saw and establish the depth passes, makes the cut pretty
8 Mill two additional mortises on shoulder cuts on each edge of the easy to control. Cut close to your
the front legs, with your method rail. These two shoulder cuts are line and finish cleaning up the
of choice. 3/8" deep and should take you right socket with a sharp chisel.

12 13

9 Set the blade height to 3/8" and establish shoulders of the dovetailed
10 rail. Check that the shoulder-to-shoulder length matches that of the other
drawer rails.
10 Decrease the blade height to 1/4" and turn the dovetailed rail right-side
up to nibble away the waste.
11 Trim the dovetail shape to your line at the bandsaw.
12 Lay the dovetailed rail flush with the back of the front legs and scribe
the dovetail shape with a marking knife.
13 Use a compact router with a 1/4" spiral bit to excavate the dovetail socket.
Work close to your line and focus on keeping the base of the router in contact
with the leg. Then chisel the socket to your line. Clean up the inside corners.
11

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 55
 Drop-Leaf Table

Legs Get 4-Sided Tapers

The heart of any Stickley design is
straight and square elements, so
the gentle 4-sided tapers are wel-
come on this design. Use a tapering
jig at the table saw to remove 3/16"
taper of thickness on all sides of the
legs. The taper extends 13" up from
the bottom of the legs. When you
taper all sides of a leg in this way, at
some point, you’ll lose the refer-
ence surface. Depending on the de-
sign of your tapering jig, it may be
necessary to support the end of the
leg with a center point. At the very
least, make sure the leg component
is firmly clamped in position to 14
make these tapered cuts.
14 Taper the legs on all 4 sides with a tapering jig. The jig rides in the
Assemble the Base miter slot of the table saw.
With all parts fitting as they should
15 After applying glue to the panels and front rails, use a series of clamps
and sanded smooth, it’s time to
to pull everything together.
permanently assemble the base.
Start by inserting the side panels
between pairs of legs to make a left Snug up your clamps, making sure the dovetail is self-aligning in the
and right assembly. Next, connect the mortise and tenon joints seat socket, an additional clamp across
these two halves by adding the back fully. Finally, add the dovetailed rail the front is extra insurance that it’ll
panel and two of the front rails. and glue it in place. Even though stay in position until it dries.

Cutlist
No. Items Dimensions (inches)
T W L
4 A Legs 1 5/ 8 1 5/ 8 27 1/4
2 B Side panels 3/4 13 14 1/4
1 C Back panel 3/4 13 15 1/4
1 D Dovetailed top rail 3/4 1 1/ 2 15 1/4
2 E Middle/lower rails 3/4 1 1/ 2 15 1/4
1 F Top panel 3/4 18 18 3/4
2 G Leaves 3/4 13 18
2 H Corbels 3/4 6 8
2 I Top drawer front/rear 3/4 4 13 3/4
2 J Top drawer sides 5/ 8 4 14 5/ 8
1 K Top drawer subdivider 5/ 8 3 1/4 12 3/4
2 L Lower drawer front/rear 3/4 6 13 3/4
2 M Lower drawer sides 5/ 8 6 14 5/ 8
1 N Lower drawer subdivider 5/ 8 5 1/4 12 3/4
2 O Drawer bottoms 1/4 13 13 3/4
2 P Center drawer guides 3/4 1 14 1/4
2 Q Center guide track 1/ 2 2 1/ 2 14 1/4
1 R Cleat, upper drawer 3/4 3/4 13 3/4
2 S Cleats, lower drawer 3/4 1 1/ 2 13 3/4
4 T Drawer slides 3/ 8 3/4 14

All component are white oak except the center drawer guides (P ) and
drawer slides ( T ), which are maple.
15

56 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
■ Stickley #630 Drop-Leaf Table
G F G F

H D H
Q T

E
T
C Q H
B
E

A A A A

FRONT VIEW SIDE VIEW

NOTE: For drawer dimensions, visit:

popularwoodworking.com/April2023 1/4"
CENTER DRAWER GUIDES 1/4"
1/4"
1/4" TOP
3/8"
TOP VIEW 3/8" R VIEW 3/8"
5/8''
TOP
3/8" 1/2"
5/16" SIDE VIEW VIEW 3/4'' 1/4"
3/4" 3/8"

3/4" 3/4" 1/2"

DRAWER SLIDES
1/4" 3"
4 7/16"
SIDE VIEW 1/2"

3/16"
DRAWER CLEATS 2" 3/8"

TOP VIEW 3/4" 6 1/2" 11/8"

SIDE 2"
SIDE VIEW 1/16" VIEW 14 7/32"

NOTE: Upper cleat is 3/4" wide while the lower cleat is 1 1/2" wide.

H 11/8"
R
113/32"
B C
T SIDE/BACK
PANELS SIDE
FRONT LEG

VIEW
BACK LEG

D Q NOTE: Back panel

is 1" longer than
S the side panels.

H
1
E B
Scale: 1 square = 1"
Q 11/16"
2
E A
S

3/8" 2 Hinge Location

3/8"

1" 1 11/8"
CORBELS 5/8"

DOVETAILED MIDDLE/LOWER SIDE VIEW

TOP RAIL RAILS
 Drop-Leaf Table

17

16

16 Dovetail drawer parts with Akeda DT jig.

17 The center guide track has a rabbet on the front,
which fits into a mortise in the drawer front.
18 Secure turn-stops to the divider with a single screw.
Self-adhesive cork bumpers complete the drawer stop. 18

Dovetail Drawers and true. While only appropriate router table. Stop the groove 1"
You can make the drawers how- for small to mid-size drawers, it’s from the front of the drawer. Glue
ever you like, but what Stickley a classic mechanism that’ll work the drawer boxes together and add
project would be complete well for decades to come. the subdivider into the shallow
without dovetailed drawers? If These drawers are made with dadoes in the drawer sides. Size the
you’re skilled with hand tools, it’s 3/4" fronts, 5/8" thick sides, and 1/4" parts to slide freely in their grooves
a good chance to break out the plywood, which is set into a groove with minimal friction. Mount the
dovetail saw. Or, if you’re a power 1/2" from the bottom of the drawer. drawer slides to the side panels of
tool junkie, you may be inter- This allows adequate clearance for the table through oversized holes
ested in this. I’ve come up with the center guide that’s mounted to allow for some adjustment. The
the method of making thin-pin under the drawer. Before gluing ends of the drawer slides will need
half-blind dovetails entirely with a together, create a mortise in the to be notched to fit around the legs.
router and jig. To see the process drawer front that will receive a You can cut a scrap of 1/4" plywood
in action, look for a video on my tongue of the center guide track. to use as a spacer to keep the
YouTube channel, The Thoughtful It’s located immediately below the drawer slides square and at the
Woodworker. While the original drawer bottom groove. I also like correct height.
version of this table seemed to to add subdividers in the drawers Likewise, notch the center
feature piston-fit drawers without like these because it creates a se- drawer guide around the drawer
any mechanical support, I opted cret compartment. Plus, the sub- rail to fit. There are two of these
to add another Stickley hallmark divider offers a convenient spot components, one for each drawer,
to this project: side-hung and cen- to mount the turn-stop, which and they both receive a 3/4" square
ter-guided drawer slides. Basically, will contact the frame before the notch to fit in place. They should
the weight of the drawer is carried drawer extends too far. stand about 1/4" taller than the
by wooden runners attached to Cut centered grooves in the drawer rail. You’ll need some
the table, and a central runner drawer sides with a 3/4" diameter cleats to mount the central drawer
keeps the drawer tracking straight bit set to a 1/4" depth of cut at the guides — one thin 3/4" square strip

58 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
19

21

19 Add the dovetailed rail to finish the frame of the

table, and glue it in place.
20 Install the center drawer guides in their notches,
and secure them with a pair of screws.
21 Test fit the folding leaves to check for binding.
20

for the top drawer and a pair of of the mortise required. Whatever sponge) and dab away any excess
11/2" wide cleats for the bottom hinges you select, make sure the with a dry rag. After the dye has
drawers. Although the next step is hinge leaves fold flat against each dried, spray on a light coat of shellac,
optional, I’ve found it helpful while other for a proper fit. like Zinsser Bull’s Eye SealCoat. Since
building side-hung, center-guided To make the rule joints for alcohol acts as a thinner for both
drawers in the past. Create a shal- the drop-leaf table, you’ll need a dye and shellac, it’s important to
low dado centered on each of the matching set of router bits and spray a light coat of sealer. Allowing
cleats as well as the top-drawer rail. some specialty hinges. If this is the shellac to puddle could poten-
This 1/16" deep dado receives the your first project with rule joints, tially lift the dye colorant, making it
central drawer guide and ensures or you’d like a quick refresher bleed into the seal coat.
the drawer will be centered in the course, turn to page 16 to check out Once the shellac dries, scuff
opening. If you elect to cut these the article “Joint Rule for Drop- sand it with soft sanding sponges
centered notches, it’s easier to Leaf Tables.” in a very fine grit and apply the gel
notch the top-drawer rail before stain with a clean cotton rag. I used
the table is assembled. Lastly, se- Finishing Up General Finished Antique Walnut Gel
cure the central drawer guide with The finish is a popular stain-over- Stain. The golden hues of the dye
a pair of short screws. dye technique that starts with a shimmer through the gel stain for
non-grain-raising (NGR) dye. The spectacular highlights that rival a
Drop-Leaf Table Joinery dye color is TransTint Golden Brown traditional fume finish. Topcoat
Swing-out corbels support the mixed 1oz./qt. of thinner. The the project with your preferred fin-
drop-leaves in the extended thinner I use to prepare the dye is a ish, which in my case was pre-cata-
position. They’re mounted by 50/50 mixture of denatured alcohol lyzed lacquer. Add the drawer pulls
mortising the hinge into the edge and lacquer thinner. Work quick- after finishing, mount the top with
of the corbel. I used “non-mortise” ly to apply the dye with a special figure 8 fasteners, and call this
type hinges to minimize the depth staining pad (terrycloth-wrapped project a wrap! PW – Willie Sandry

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 59
 Classified & Woodworker’s Marketplace

Kits and Plans

WE HAVE A WIDE VARIETY
of plans, projects, advice, Charleston
Woodworking School
back issues and all things wood-
 



  

working in our online store.  
 

   



   
  
  

Please visit our website at
PANEL SAW www.CharlestonWoodworkingSchool.com
Store.PopularWoodworking.com 843-513-3042

Schools and
Instruction Bob Van Dyke – Director

JOHN C. CAMPBELL FOLK

SCHOOL, Brasstown, NC. Courses Featuring hands-on classes
for all skill levels taught
for all skill levels. Week and week- by nationally known
end classes year-round, taught craftsmen including
by nationally known instructors. Steve Latta, Will Neptune,
Friendly, supportive environment. Peter Follansbee, Mary May,
Mike Pekovich and more!
Comfortable, on-campus housing. 6SHQFHU6W0DQFKHVWHU&7‡Þ

6SHQF
6SHQFHU
HU6W
6W
0
0
0DQF
DQFK
KHVWHU&7
‡Þ


Delicious meals served three times www.schoolofwoodworking.com
a day. (800) 365-5724 or
www.folkschool.org

Shop Equipment
and Supplies
BLOXYGEN SAVES LEFTOVER
FINISHES – Prevent Oxygen or
Moisture Damage. (888) 810-8311
or www.bloxygen.com

SEAT WEAVING SUPPLIES.

Chair cane and splint, Shaker
tape, fiber and natural rush.
Complete line of basketweaving
supplies. Royalwood Ltd.,
Classified rate is $6.00 per word, 15-word
517-WW Woodville Rd, Mansfield,
minimum. Order must be accompanied by
OH 44907. (800) 526-1630 or payment; ads are non-commissionable.
www.royalwoodltd.com
Send to Jack Christiansen via his email,
DOWNLOAD & PRINT jchristiansen@aimmedia.com or call at
YOUR PLANS AT (847) 724-5633.

HOME!
Hundreds to choose from
for home, gift and shop!
700 + SIGN UP AT
videos.popular.
WOODWORKING woodworking.com
PLUS VIDEO PLANS! VIDEOS.
It’s a Netflix for makers, where you can binge on
Each video plan includes projects, techniques and pro tips to advance your craft.
a 26-minute video and • Full-builds from Frank Klausz, Jeff Miller, Alf Sharp, and more
a detailed printable plan.
24/7 leading woodworkers
• 30 + seasons of the Woodwright’s Shop with Roy Underhill
Go to: ACCESS. • 60 + episodes of I Can Do That!
WoodsmithPlans.com • Plans and sketches to build the projects yourself
 FULL PROJECT PLANS INSIDE Build Outdoor Furniture to Last

Maximum Strength
Maximum Control J UN E 20 1 9 | # 2 4 6

Get Control with the Strongest,

MAKE YOUR OWN
Stiffest Fret Saws on Earth WINDSOR CHAIR
Available in WEEKEND PROJECT BUILD IT
US $7.99

06

Titanium or Aluminum Walnut Table

With Router Inlay
Japanese
Writing Box 0 71486 01355 6

www.knewconcepts.com
PopularWoodworking.com/subscribe

Above prices are for 100’ quantities of kiln UPS Specials

STEVE WALL LUMBER CO. dried rough lumber sold by the Bd. Ft. FOB
Mayodan, NC. Call for quantity discounts.
Above prices are 15 bd. ft.
bundles of clear kiln dried
Quality Hardwoods and Plywood For The Other sizes and grades available. lumber 3”-10” wide • 3’-4’ long
(Random widths & lengths)
Craftsmen and Educational Institutions SEE OUR CATALOG Surfaced 2 sides or rough.
ON THE WEB! Delivered Ground prepaid in
the Continental U.S.
Alder.............................No longer Available
Ash................................4/4 Select 4.00 .......... $104.00 OLIVER MACHINERY DEALER
Basswood .....................4/4 Select 3.25 .......... $ 95.00
Birch .............................4/4 Select 3.95 .......... $108.00 HARDWOOD PLYWOOD
Butternut .......................4/4 1C 3.65 .......... $ 98.00 CUSTOM RAISED PANEL DOORS
Cedar (Aromatic Red) ...4/4 1C+Btr. 3.35 .......... $ 95.00
Cherry ...........................4/4 Select 4.90 .......... $118.00 CUSTOM PLANK HARDWOOD FLOORING
Cypress .........................4/4 Select 4.60 .......... $118.00 THIN CRAFTWOOD
Hickory - Pecan.............4/4 Select 3.00 .......... $108.00 EXOTIC LUMBER
Mahogany (African) ......4/4 Select 5.50 .......... $125.00
Maple (Hard) .................4/4 Select 5.00 .......... $125.00
Maple (Soft) ..................4/4 Select 4.85 .......... $119.00
Oak (Red)......................4/4 Select 3.15 .......... $101.00
STEVE H. WALL LUMBER CO.
BOX 287, MAYODAN, NC 27027
Oak (White) ...................4/4 Select 7.00 .......... $150.00 336-427-0637 • 1-800-633-4062 • FAX: 336-427-7588
White Oak (Quarter Sawn) 4/4 8.95 ........... $180.00 Email: woodsales@walllumber.com
Poplar ...........................4/4 Select 2.85 .......... $ 95.00 Website: www.walllumber.com
Walnut...........................4/4 Select 8.25 .......... $165.00
White Pine (Soft) ..........4/4 F.G. 2.00 .......... $ 79.00 Send $1.00 For Lumber Catalog
Yellow Pine (Soft) .........4/4 Clear 2.20 .......... $ 88.00 Prices Subject to Change Without Notice

Turnings, Carvings, Mouldings & More

www.osbornewood.com
BESPOKE TOOLMAKER
Vermont-based
Honey toolmaker Will
Adams offers

Brook some of the

best hand-made

Tools tools around.

By Logan Wittmer

HoneyBrookTools.com

A marking knife. There are Honey Brook Tools turning. Will certainly has a sense
few tools that can, nearly in- After a long stint in both politics of form and shape. As a turner, I
stantly, increase the accuracy and elementary education (which tend to be overcritical of turned
PHOTOS PROVIDED BY WILL ADAMS & LOGAN WITTMER

of a woodworker’s work. But one might argue are the same ca- objects and their shape/form, but
for Vermont-based toolmaker reer), Will stepped away to launch I cannot offer any critiques on any
Will Adams, a marking knife was Honey Brook Tools full-time. of the Honey Brook Tools. That’s
so much more. His first tool, a While Will explains that the Honey astounding, as Will produces (and
marking knife, was made from Brook offering is ever-changing turns) every tool by hand. As a
his great-grandfather’s straight and expanding, he currently makes hand tool junkie, I was pleased to
razor and a scrap of walnut. Little mallets, marking and dovetail see that Honey Brook Tools offers
did Will know that the simple knives, marking gauges, split nut winding sticks. Honey Brook
marking knife would lead to a drivers, scratch and birdcage awls, offers two profiles of winding
pursuit to make some of the best as well as winding sticks. sticks—a tapered and non-tapered.
hand tools around. And, make no When I first received a shipment And, don’t get me started on the
mistake—Will’s are some of of Honey Brook tools, the first boxwood inlay on them. After
the best. thing I noticed was the exquisite carefully examining, playing with,

62 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING
 Honey Brook Tools

1 2

1 William Adams is the founder of

Honey Brook Tools.
2 A rare manufacturer of winding
sticks, Honey Brook offers two profiles.
3 Each and every Honey Brook Tool
is handmade in Will’s shop.

and using the Honey Brook tools, I

knew I needed to reach out to Will
and pick his brain.

What need did you see in the

tool market? In recent years
there seems to be a real renais-
sance in small, independent tool- 3
makers. I’ve been really inspired
by some of the phenomenal saw toolmaker and woodworker. There never been used, so I jumped on it.
makers who, like me, are inspired are some really great toolmakers I started turning simple tool han-
by classic designs. As I looked in the market today and one of dles for files and such in my shop
around the market I saw that the many things I love about this and it just grew from there.
many of the layout tools that are community is that we support I’ve always been happiest when
available have a distinctly con- each other and we enjoy seeing I’m creating something, be it
temporary look to them. There’s each other succeed. woodworking, music, baking, or
nothing wrong with that, but I’ve now toolmaking. I’ve become true
found that there’s a real appreci- How did you get into making to myself by being a craftsman. I
ation for tools that have a more hand tools? My journey into need to create, it’s just a funda-
classic and vintage look to them, becoming a full-time toolmaker mental part of who I am and it’s a
styles that I’m deeply attached started with the purchase of my part that I ignored for far too long.
to. I believe really strongly in the lathe, a late 1940’s Power King Now, I spend every day in the shop
idea that the tools we use should made, I think, by Delta. I’d never with my shop dog Murphy (Chief
inspire us. They should feel good used a lathe and was really curious Morale Officer), making beautiful
in the hand, work flawlessly, and about doing so, and I saw this tools. That’s just an incredible gift
inspire us while we’re using them. Power King for sale. It was literally and one I don’t take for granted.
That’s my guiding ideal as both a still in the shipping crate and had PW — Logan Wittmer

POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 63