VOLUME 8 ISSUE 1

MAGAZINE
ASIA
A
JANUARY 2017
JANUARY 2017

Don’t-miss
Win! experiences
A 2-NIGHT STAY IN
COSMO HOTEL
for the year
GREAT ESCAPE NEW YORK

HONG KONG
(2 SETS TO GIVEAWAY)

ahead
X ASIA’S OVERLOOKED ALPS X BEST HOTEL BARS

CITY AT A
GLANCE
Helsinki –
Finland’s
compact little
capital

ICELAND SGD 7.50 01

Capturing majestic RM 20
NT 270
THB 195
wintry landscapes
A PUBLICATION OF

9 772010 082017
MCI (P) 101/12/2016, PPS 1747/12/2012(022909)

6 MINI GUIDES NORTHUMBERLAND X EDINBURGH X LISBON X VENICE X NEW ORLEANS X SOUTH AFRICA
 Explore More of Tantalizing Thailand
with Best Western
With hotels in many exciting destinations across the country,
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 EDITOR’S LETTER

RAEWYN
YN KOH
KOH,
ASSOCIATE EDITOR

…we’re unveiling our annual list of the

greatest destinations and experiences for
2017 with Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2017
(p56). With pink sand beaches, underground
trampoline parks, solar eclipses, and so much
more, this year’s list brings back Lonely
Planet’s philosophy of inspiring travellers to
push boundaries. If you’re planning for
something for the winter, check out the lush
bamboo forests in Anji County (p27), or
discover the majestic wintry landscapes of
Iceland with Tom Mackie (p68). Finally,
what better way to kick off the year with a
cocktail in hand? We’ve curated a list of the
best places to stay with the best bars just for
this issue (p74).

JANUARY 2017 1
 Win!
A 2-NIGHT STAY IN
COSMO HOTEL
JA NUARY 2 017 HONG KONG
Turn to p95

In this issue...
P OSTC A R DS
Your travel photos and stories Where has the
8 The Pushkar Camel Fair and more images
from around the world centre for illicit
liquour production
GLOBE TROTTER during Prohibition
The latest travel news and discoveries
13 Our latest, greatest Travel Book, a new turned into a new
president’s guide to Washington, DC, Berlin’s
latest hip hang-out, and more era of spirit-
E ASY T R IPS making? p41
Short breaks you can take right now
27 Recharge for the year ahead in Anji County
28 Celebrate the urban canvas of Singapore
29 Sydney’s summer is for stimulating the
senses
30 Unexpected places to ski this winter, or even
all year round
32 Review of the Month: Wyndham Sea Pearl
Phuket

C I TY AT A G LANCE
A low-down of the best on offer
34 A brief sojourn to Finland’s compact little
capital is a truly satisfying journey

GRE AT E SCAPE
Your next big trip mapped out
41 Mix urban, rural and full-on wilderness on a
road trip round New York State

F E AT U RE S
More ideas for your bucket-list
56 Looking for travel inspiration for 2017?
Here’s our run-down of the places you must
visit next year
68 Iceland truly lives up to its name in winter,
when its landscape takes on an extra majesty
74 Extraordinary places to stay: Best hotel bars

M IN I GU IDES
Themed guides to take with you
83 Northumberland’s scenic glories
85 Edinburgh’s museums and heritage
87 The best of Lisbon on a budget
89 Art, music and architecture in Venice Revealed! Our
91 A greedy guide to New Orleans
92 Wine in South Africa’s Western Cape
number one
country for 2017
p56

2 JANUARY 2017
 DESTINATION
INDEX
Australia p15
South Australia p63
Sydney p29
Bermuda p59
Canada p57
Chile
Hysén p63
China
Anji County p27
Colombia p58
Ethiopia p61
Finland p58
Helsinki p34
France
Bordeaux p65
Iceland’s magical wintry Paris p10
landscapes p68 French Polynesia
The Tuamotus p64
Iceland p68
India
Pour yourself a classic cocktail or Kashmir
Pushkar
p30
p8
a specialty house drink at these Indonesia
Bali p76
Extraordinary Places to Stay p74 Yogyakarta p12
Italy p15
Pistoria p62
Venice p89
Macedonia
Ohrid p66
Mexico
Mérida p66
Mongolia p59
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAN HALLMAN, GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO-SITIKKA, TOM MACKIE, VISIT FINLAND - JUSSI HELLSTEN

Myanmar p61
Nepal p59
New Zealand
Taranaki p62
Franz Josef Valley p15
Peru
Choquequirao p62
Portugal
The Azores p62
Lison p67, p87
Russia
Moscow p67, p87
Scotland
Edinburgh p84

Win!
A SET OF UNIQLO’S
Singapore
South Africa
Cape Town
p28, 31, 77
p94
p65
South Korea
HEATTECH PACK Seoul p66
Look for these Turn to p82 Thailand
Phuket p32
symbols to quickly United Arab Emirates
identify listings Dubai p30
Oman p60
United Kingdom
Sights Tours Drinking
London p76
Beaches Festivals Entertainment Northumberland p83
Activities Sleeping Shopping North Wales p63
Courses Eating Information United States of America
& Transport Georgia p64
Which city in Finland All prices correct at time of going to press. Prices for hotel rooms are for
Los Angeles p65, p77
is overrun by bunnies double, en suite rooms with breakfast in low season, unless otherwise
stated. Flight prices are for the cheapest return fares, including one piece
New Orleans
New York
p91
p41
and squirrels?p34 of hold baggage, unless otherwise stated. Portland p67
Washington, DC p16

JANUARY 2017 3
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UK MAGAZINE
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LONELY PLANET TEAM Tinned bear meat? Smoked roach (of the fish variety, not the insect)?
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CAFFEINE
Lonely Planet is distributed in Singapore, Malaysia, Hong Kong, Thailand
and Taiwan.
ADDICTION
Coffee Break is hands down the best cafe on
Koh Yai Noi. Probably because it’s also the
only one. The owner-cum-barista moved to
A Publication of
the island after marrying a local girl, and set
up shop right outside his house making legit
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trendy ice blends. They even have a
Member of Magazine Publishers Persatuan Penerbit Majalah, Malaysia
Association, Singapore Magazine Publishers Association, Malaysia TripAdvisor page. Snazzy.

4 JANUARY 2017
 COMING NEXT MONTH

CYCLADES
Get your sea legs ready for an island-hopping trip, starting with ancient and
modern side by side in the Greek capital, Athens, before flitting about on
ferries to discover hidden coves, experience traditional rural life and fill up on
local food, then finally kicking back to watch the world-famous sunsets.

Getting to know the RAIL SWITZERLAND by train

What to do in and around PYEONGCHANG before 2018’s Winter Olympics
Upping camping’s glam factor with GLAMPING
Postcards
WHERE YOU’VE BEEN AND WHAT YOU’VE SEEN

8 JANUARY 2017
 POSTCARDS
Send your pictures and tell us the stories behind them:
email lpmagazine@regentmedia.sg

Visitor numbers swell in

Pushkar during the Camel
Fair and a range of small
businesses cater for the
influx of people to the
Rajasthani town

PUSHKAR, INDIA

Barbershop
quartet
Held each November at the time
of the full moon, the Pushkar
Camel Fair is a spectacle on an
epic scale, with Bedouin
tribesmen selling tens of
thousands of camels, cattle and
horses from all over the country
in a period of 14 days. Here,
in what is just a stretch of desert,
a city appears for two weeks with
a giant carnival, games, food
stands and all kinds of camps for
the animals. One night, as I was
walking back from the fair to my
tented hotel, I came across this
pop-up barber shop. I was drawn
to the scene because of the
vibrant, contrasting colours. I
walked over and quickly took
just this one shot. It is one of my
favourites of the festival.

Laura Grier, a self-proclaimed

jet-setter, lives in Venice Beach, LA

JANUARY 2017 9
POSTCARDS
The 210-metre skyscraper Tour
Montparnasse, lies to the
south-west of the city centre and
commands rare high views of
low-lying Paris

PARIS, FRANCE

Sky-high lights
I was in Paris for work and only
had one day to see the sights,
almost five years to the day since
my last visit. I explored the city
on foot, visiting the Eiffel Tower,
Notre Dame and so on, before
heading to Tour Montparnasse in
the evening. I wanted to get a
perspective of Paris high up. It
gave me a feeling of how big and
spread-out the city really is. The
skyline is very different to
London, with the majority of
buildings only a few storeys high,
which is amazing for a major city.
I love this image as it captures the
blue hour in Paris. It makes me
yearn to go back and spend a
few more days, rather than just
one day, to see it all.

Navjit Bhamra works in operations

for a software company in London

10 JANUARY 2017
 POSTCARDS

JANUARY 2017 11
POSTCARDS

INDONESIA, YOGYAKARTA
3D Mandala
Borobudur, a Buddhist stupa in the
Mahayana tradition, is a three-
dimensional mandala and a visual
representation of Buddhist
teachings.
Indonesia’s spectacular site,
allows you to travel back in time to
enjoy an unrivaled combination of
history, culture, spiritually and
natural beauty. I thoroughly enjoyed
the astonishing experience afforded
by the world’s biggest Buddhist
monument that has survived 1,200
years of natural and man-made
disasters. This truly was an
unforgettable experience and a
highlight of Yogyakarta.

Sirsendu Gayen is an Assistant Professor in

The Borobudur Temple consisting of nine stacked platforms topped by a central dome was built in 750 AD
Chemistry of Vivekananda College Kolkata, India

FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER,

NEW ZEALAND
Freeze frame
This picture was one of the first I
took on my trip to New Zealand.
It shows the Franz Joseph Valley
with the glacier itself in the
background. What made me
reach for my camera was a desire
to capture the feeling of calm
that nature this magnificent
gives. I can still hear the roaring
river, and see the clouds dance
on top of the mountains with
the icy-blue water breaking
through the landscape with
such determination. The
moment left a very big
impression in my memory.

Trine Sørensen was travelling

after studying abroad in Melbourne Franz Josef Glacier, on New Zealand’s South Island, was named after Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria in 1865

12 JANUARY 2017
 Globetrotter
A WORLD OF TRAVEL NEWS AND DISCOVERIES

Welcome
home
BERLIN’S NEWEST HOTEL has
its guests believe they’re
staying in the mansion of old
friend Sir Savigny, a
consummate traveller and man
of exquisite taste, finally
putting down roots in
the neighbourhood of
Charlottenburg. Expect rooms
individually styled with the
epicurean’s intriguing art and
curios, fireside aperitifs in the
library, and fine burgers
emerging from the ktichen
(bedrooms from US$142;
sirsavignyhotel.com).
PHOTOGRAPHS: STEVE HERUD

JANUARY 2017 13
A WORLD OF TRAVEL TRIVIA
EMBARK ON A JOURNEY
AROUND EVERY COUNTRY
ON THE PLANET WITH
OUR NEW EDITION OF THE
TRAVEL BOOK. HERE’S A
SMALL TASTER OF THE RIDE

ST LUCIA
CAPITAL Castries
POPULATION 163,000

PHOTOGRAPHS: JUSTIN FOULKES, MARTIN HARVEY/GETTY, CRAIG FERGUSON/GETTY, ROLAND FANKHAUSER/500PX, MATT MUNRO, LOTTIE DAVIES, DAVID NELSON/SHUTTERSTOCK
SEE The jagged Pitons (right),
two volcanic formations
towering over the island.
RANDOM FACT
Although the British
invaded in 1778 and the
French ceded the island for
good in 1814, old traditions
linger: most people speak
a French-accented patois,
are Catholic and live in
towns with French names.

KEN YA TA IWA N RANDOM FACT

CAPITAL Nairobi CAPITAL Taipei Both instant noodles and
POPULATION 44 million POPULATION 23 million bubble tea (also known as
DO Follow a Maasai guide SEE The city view from ‘boba’ or ‘pearl milk’ tea)
on a walking safari through the 509-metre-high Taipei were invented and
one of the Masai Mara’s 101 tower (above). popularised in Taiwan.
private conservancies.
RANDOM FACT
Nairobi National Park is the
only national park in the
world to be in a capital city.
On its plains, it is possible
to view rhinos, giraffes,
lions and other species with
the city as a backdrop.

EC UA D OR RANDOM FACT
CAPITAL Quito Tiny Ecuador (109,484
POPULATION 15 million square miles) is home
DO Go wildlife watching in to some 300 mammal
the Galápagos Islands and species and over 1,600
see giant tortoises, sea lions, bird species, which is more
and both land (above) and than all of Europe and
marine iguanas. North America combined.

14 JANUARY 2017
 GLOBETROTTER

A USTRAL I A
CAPITAL Canberra
POPULATION 22 million
SEE Paradisiacal beaches
and an astounding
underwater world as
you island hop around
the Whitsundays on
the Great Barrier Reef.
RANDOM FACT
Great Australian inventions
include the bionic ear, the
black box flight recorder, the
notepad and the wine box.

ITA LY
CAPITAL Rome
POPULATION 62 million
DO Enjoy a dawn stroll
as Venice (right) sleeps,
taking in Piazza San Marco,
bewitched by the spires
of Basilica di San Marco.
RANDOM FACT
On average US$3,090 a day
is tossed into the Fontana
di Trevi, Rome’s lucky
fountain that promises
another visit to the capital
in exchange for a coin.

LESOT HO
CAPITAL Maseru
POPULATION 2 million
SEE The breathtaking
Maletsunyane Falls (right),
which at 192 metres high
is almost twice the height
of the much more famous
G R E E N LAN D RANDOM FACT Victoria Falls bordering
CAPITAL Nuuk Numbers in the Greenlandic Zimbabwe and Zambia.
POPULATION 57,714 language only go up to 12. RANDOM FACT
DO Seek out the national After that, there is only the The Basotho people are
costume, which is decorated word ‘amerlasoorpassuit’ traditionally buried in
with hundreds of glass (many); otherwise you have a sitting position, facing
beads, originally signifying to revert to Danish numbers the rising sun and ready
the wealth of the owner. to continue counting. to leap up when called.

JANUARY 2017 15
GLOBETROTTER
NEW TOUR
Renowned primatologist Dr Jane Goodall has teamed up with G SOMETHING TO DECLARE:
Adventures to offer a new range of wildlife trips. All are bound by Forget the headlines – travellers enjoy
a strict animal welfare policy while offering a chance to explore a warm welcome in the Middle East
the habitats of some our closest genetic relatives. ‘Experience
Borneo’ includes a river safari in search of native species like I woke at 6am to the sight of a vast sandstone gorge
proboscis monkeys, grey gibbons (below) and orangutans stretched out beneath a silken rose-blue sky. It was one
(from US$2,100 pp for eight days; gadventures.com). of the most beautiful views I’d ever seen – and I had it
completely to myself. Al Nawatef Camp, in Jordan, was completely
deserted. I’d arrived the night before, by bicycle, and had my pick of
the tents overlooking the canyon. The owner apologised for the lack
of electricity and running water. ‘We only put it on if we have enough
guests,’ he said ruefully. Business was slow. ‘We only had 300 bookings
last year. Before the Arab Spring, we’d have 600 in November alone.’
The Syrian War and the rise of terrorist groups has decimated the
tourist industry in Jordan, and across the region as a whole. Dahab,
in Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula, was once a thriving scuba-diving paradise,
but now the streets are near empty. A man forced to close his hotel
last year voiced his frustration to me: ‘People talk about trouble in
the Sinai and stay away, but they’re actually talking about an area
450 miles north of here.’
And there’s the rub. While certain dangers exist, concerns about
the Middle East are often overblown. When I announced my plan to
cycle through it alone, confidence in my ability to stay alive seemed
low. My mother was convinced I’d be ‘robbed or raped – at best’.
Others thought I’d be captured or killed by ISIS. Some suspected
I was on my way to join them.
Yet beyond the fear and bombast surrounding these countries,
there is so much to enjoy. Their tremendous warmth and
generosity. Their love of foreigners. Their protective community

HYGGE
HAPPINESS
A Danish concept that
roughly translates as
cosiness, hygge (pronounced
‘hoogah’) has inspired a
global lifestyle trend and
countless books and
newspaper articles. There has
never been a better time for
fireside lounging and
candle-lit suppers.

spirit. Their aversion to petty crime. Their music, sweetmeats and

spices. Their boundless capacity for tea.
The greatest hazard for me was not terrorists, robbers or rapists,
I quickly learnt. It was the often suffocating hospitality of locals. In a
remote Egyptian village, I had to physically wrestle a 10-year-old girl
to reach freedom after being fattened like foie gras on endless supplies
of mashed fava beans. In Iran, one young scholar held me hostage until
MAGIC-FREE I’d read his eight-page literary critique of Sherlock Holmes and given
WINTERLANDS credible interpretations of various British idioms, including ‘Bob’s
Most attempts to import the your uncle’ and ‘mad as a bag of ferrets’.
seasonal traditions of our But despite all of this, I survived to tell the tale. And my
northern European cousins life is all the richer for it.
have invariably depressing
ILLUSTRATION: JIRI SLIVA.

results, from uninspiring REBECCA LOWE is a freelance journalist who

winter-theme parks, budget recently cycled 6,000 miles from London to
Laplands to half-baked Tehran. Read about it at thebicyclediaries.co.uk
town-centre ‘German and follow Rebecca at @reo_lowe
markets’ distributing tat,
rather than festive spirit.

16 JANUARY 2017
 GLOBETROTTER
IT’S TIME TO PLAN FOR THE LUNAR NEW YEAR!
WHAT SHOULD YOU DO DURING THE
CELEBRATORY FESTIVAL?
SG: Indulge yourself in an
iconic art destination like JW
Marriott Hotel Singapore Do you want to stay in the
South Beach (US$245 per
night, opening special) SINGAPORE/ country or go abroad? ABROAD
MALAYSIA

City or rural?
Alone?
City Rural

Yes No

MY: Escape to award-winning The St

Regis Langkawi for a luxurious
weekend escapade (US$460 per night)

2017 Lunar New Year Fireworks Display by

the Victoria Harbour, Hong Kong is
emblematic to both locals and tourist alike
to usher in the Year of the Rooster
Foodie?

Yes No

Bangkok is home to Thailand’s largest

Chinatown. Burst into festivities and
celebration during Lunar New Year. Quiet or crazy?
SG: Marina Mandarin’s Peach
Blossom has the perfect Lunar Yaowarat will see more food stalls and
lights than usual and Princess Maha Chakri
New Year menu comprising MY: Take a stroll along Sirindhorn usually graces the occasion
Barbecued Whole Suckling Pig bustling Petaling Street
& Baked Boston Lobster with area in Chinatown to witness
creamy salted egg yolk and cheese Crazy
lion dances and grand Quiet
firework displays
MY: Troika Sky Dining offers five luxe
restaurants and bars to accompany the A bell is a traditional symbol of the
fireworks at Petronas Twin Towers Lunar New Year and the Chinese believe
SG: River Hongbao is the that ringing a large bell can drive away
quintessential event for locals to bad luck and receive good fortune.
celebrate the Lunar New Year in style Head to Hanshan Temple in Suzhou,
at the Floating Platform @ Marina Bay East China’s Jiangsu Province to catch
this amazing custom
IMAGE: FREEPIK.COM

For the cultural and history buffs who

wish to seek a peace of mind during the
festivities, head to Kerala, India and
explore its pristine nature parks and rivers

JANUARY 2017 17
 NATIONAL MUSEUM
OF AFRICAN AMERICAN
HISTORY AND
CULTURE
Outgoing President Obama
inaugurated this latest addition to

WASHINGTON, DC DC’s already thriving museum

scene. The building’s three-tiered
shape was inspired by a Yoruban
crown, and exhibits include potent
symbols of the black American
experience, including clothing
worn by civil rights activists
(free entry; nmaahc.si.edu).

POD HOTEL
Now taking bookings for December,
WATERGATE HOTEL this will be the first POD Hotel to
Best known as the site of the ’70s open outside of New York City.

PHOTOGRAPHS: MILLERIUM ARKAY/SHUTTERSTOCK, ALAN KARCHMER/COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN HISTORY AND CULTURE,
COURTESY OF THE WATERGATE HOTEL, ANDREW PROPP, APRIL GREER, STANISLAV HONZIK/PATHE UK, LHF GRAPHICS/SHUTTERSTOCK, COURTESY OF PATHE UK
scandal that brought down President Offering small, smartly designed
Richard Nixon, this historic hotel has rooms in the diverse downtown
recently reopened after renovation. district of Penn Quarter, it’s
Rooms reference its heritage with excellent value for money.
vintage-inspired design, and the Mostly-millennial guests can
rooftop bar has 360° views of the congregate in bar-diner Crimson,
Potomac River and Washington serving Southern comfort food and
Monument (from US$272; whiskey cocktails (introductory rate
thewatergatehotel.com). US$98; thepodhotel.com).

LA JAMBE
Run by a French woman wistful for
RADIATOR the culinary experiences of her
Celebrating mid-century DC, when homeland, and by her DC-born
the street on which it sits was lined husband, this neighbourhood bar
with car dealerships and auto repair and restaurant is big on all things
shops, the interior of this small- fromage and charcuterie. The décor
plates eatery features garage-style is a nostalgic nod to Paris, no mean
doors and old car parts. Fun, feat in such a thoroughly modern
tapas-style dishes include grilled building. Around 20 wines are
octopus, bacon fat fries and lamb available by the glass, and twice as
belly tacos (tapas from US$8; many by the bottle (cheese plate
radiatordc.com). from US$17; lajambedc.com).

FARE WELL
DISTRICT DISTILLING Part bakery, part diner, part
A change in the law means it’s newly bar, this hard-to-define new
legal for DC premises to produce opening on H Street services
their own alcohol on-site. This Washingtonians from dawn to
distillery-bar is the first to do so, dusk. By day it serves a veggie-
making vodka, gin and whiskey in an focused menu in a dining room
atmospheric 19th-century reminiscent of a retro diner, but in
townhouse. Book a tour of the evenings and weekends the focus
handmade copper pots before shifts to drinks, including local
heading to the bar for a negroni (tour beers on tap, root beer floats and
US$10, cocktails from US$10; well-crafted cocktails (cocktails
district-distilling.com). from US$11; eatfarewell.com).

18 JANUARY 2017
 GLOBETROTTER

A UNITED KINGDOM IS AN UNLIKELY REAL-LIFE LOVE STORY with an alluring African

backdrop, telling how Seretse Khama, King of Bechuanaland (modern-day Botswana),
and London office worker Ruth Williams defied fierce opposition from their families and
governments when they married in 1948. Director Amma Asante shares her insights on

shooting the film in Botswana.

Q: HOW DID BOTSWANA INSPIRE YOU AS A FILM-MAKER?

A: There really isn’t anything like an African sunset, and I think Botswana has the most beautiful
that I’ve ever seen, because the land is so flat and the sun doesn’t disappear behind a hill or a
mountain. I wanted to be able to show that – those big Botswana skies.
Q: HOW DID LOCAL PEOPLE REACT TO FILMING?
A: It was a welcoming reaction, but questioning. People are curious as to how you’re going to
present their country. While scouting locations, in each village we wanted to look at, we had to
speak to their chief. We had a representative who did the talking for us and presented our case.
Q: WHICH WERE THE MAIN LOCATIONS USED?
A: Serowe, where Seretse came from – but it’s really built up now, so to recreate his village as it
was, we also went to Maralani, which is more rural.
Q: WAS THERE A SIDE TO THE COUNTRY THAT YOU WANTED
TO SHOW?
A: Oftentimes, films set in Africa are about its hardships. I’m not saying that isn’t a part of Africa,
but there’s more to it than that. I wanted to show the environment that Seretse and Ruth lived
in, to show that wildlife-world that existed around them, that positive aspect of Africa.

Find more about travel in Botswana at lonelyplanet.com/botswana.

Rosamund Pike and David

Oyelowo play the lead
roles in A United Kingdom,
filmed in Botswana.
ABOVE Director Amma
Asante on location

JANUARY 2017 19
GLOBETROTTER

For us living this near to the equator, a trip to a

wintery wonderland is both exhilarating and
awe-inspiring because it defies expectations
of the naked eye. While many are eager to
document these snow-filled memories
through photographs, shooting in frigid
conditions often presents challenges that
make even the most familiar of surroundings
seem foreign. Here’re some quick tips for
capturing the best winter photos.
20 JANUARY 2017
 GLOBETROTTER
•Know and observe your environment
• Pack the right equipment Frost-covered objects often make for
Cold temperatures can prove to be an visually appealing shots. To capitalise on
obstacle for both you and your camera this, set your alarms and gear up bright
– imagine having to tweak your camera and early before the frost melts.
settings in the freezing cold. Thick Once out and about, find an interesting
woolen gloves would be able to protect subject that you can position in the
your fingers from the cold but they foreground to add a good measure of
inevitably hinder how easily you will be contrast to your image. In general, mist
able to adjust the settings on your DSLR. does not have too much of an impact on
The solution is to bring along tactile subjects close to the camera though
gloves that facilitate greater ease in objects further away tend to fade into the
operating your camera. At the very least, fog. This results in images that reflect a
thin woolen gloves will aid in flexibility in tremendous sense of depth.
maneuvering switches and buttons. To For more finesse in your shots, employ
further maintain a steady grip, attach your the Rule of Thirds. To fully utilise this
camera to a neck or wrist strap to avoid composition technique, position your point
accidental slips when wearing gloves. of interest at the two-third mark of the
Batteries are known to deteriorate at an frame to create an off-centre focus.
accelerated rate under arctic conditions.
To overcome this, keep a spare battery in
your pocket and alternate between both
throughout the day. Warming the batteries
helps to prolong their lifespan so as to
ensure enough battery power for the
whole day.

• Protect your gear

Heat generated from cameras can cause
snowflakes to melt upon contact and experiment with exposure from +1/3 to
result in damaging condensation and +2 stops depending on the composition
moisture to components. To protect your of the shot.
equipment, use a waterproof camera case
when shooting in snowy situations. •Striking the right (white) balance
Another trick to prevent condensation White balance adjusts the camera to suit
from building up is to seal your camera in the overall colour characteristics of the
an airtight plastic bag. light source that photographers are
shooting under. Although many
photographers choose to rely on the ‘Auto
White Balance’ function, shooting
•Don’t be afraid of exposure outdoors involves factors that this function
Fresh clean, white snow is almost always is often unable to counterbalance. While
light and reflective. As such, cameras the ‘light source’ will naturally be the sun,
tend to capture shots of the white flakes as differences in the time of day, geographic
grey-tinted images. This happens because region, and weather conditions can make a
the camera initialises underexposure to huge difference in the colour temperature
neutralise what it understands as an overly of your photograph.
bright subject. To counteract this problem, In such situations, use pre-sets that
engage in exposure compensation. match your light source and weather
Exposure compensation allows users conditions most closely. For instance, on
to deliberately lighten or darken their sunny days with clear blue skies, snow
exposures. Most cameras allow tends to pick up a slight blue tint. In this
photographers to vary the compensation case, try experimenting with the Cloudy or
PHOTOGRAPHS: CANON IMAGING ACADEMY

from a plus or minus one-third of a stop Shade white balance settings to warm up
up to plus / minus three full stops. When the overall colour and neutralise that blue
photographing snow in particular, colour cast.

The above tips are brought to you by Canon Imaging Academy (CIA),
who regularly organises travel photography trips. For more
information about CIA, visit www.canon.com.sg/training.

JANUARY 2017 21
GLOBETROTTER
THE SANYA EDITION
Conceived for the China of today and tomorrow, The Sanya
EDITION was designed for people of all ages. The spectacular
oceanfront destination on Hainan Island, just off the coast of
Southern China, is the latest addition to EDITION hotels, a
brand in partnership with Marriott International. Sanya,
which was known as ‘the end of the sky and ocean’ in ancient
times, was the inspiration for this hotel. It is set within 50
acres of meticulously landscaped lush tropical greenery and
features a striking 20,000sqm private ocean overlooking the
South China Sea. The property is divided into various zones,
each with its own specific purpose yet can be enjoyed by all
kinds of guests. There are zones for fun, water, family,
nightlife, entertainment, relaxation, and many more. While
toddlers and children have their fun on water slides and a
tree house, adults can have their fun at the meditation forest
or find sanctuary at The Spa. There are also various activities
to suit all travellers, such as rock climbing and paddle
boarding, or even mahjong at the Mahjong Rooms. The
Sanya EDITION comprises 512 residential-style guestrooms,
including 46 suites, and an additional 17 exclusive hotel villas
with private pool and outdoor space. All guestrooms also
offer stunning ocean views (edition-hotels.cn).

SOFITEL TAMUDA BAY BEACH & SPA

The luxury hotel brand’s latest project is the Sofitel Tamuda Bay, which is located in M’diq, a town located on the northern coast of Morocco. 104
bedrooms and suites, eight bungalows and five villas are offered at this opulent accommodation that is situated on one of the most beautiful Moroccan
beaches of the Mediterranean and is set against the stunning backdrop of the Rif Mountains. The award-winning hotel’s design was conceived by Galal
Mahmoud, the famed and celebrated Lebanese architect of GM Architects. Galal Mahmoud took cultural references of northern Morocco and
reinterpreted them to be more contemporary. The final results are a fusion of the opposing shores of the Mediterranean: the French Riviera’s world of art
and glamour on one end, and Morocco’a charming traditional crafts and authentic lifestyle on the other. These are reflected in the vibrant colours and
textures used and the subtle modern French art de vivre represented in the rooms (sofitel.com).

22 JANUARY 2017
 GLOBETROTTER

AIR NEW ZEALAND’S AIRBAND WINS INNOVATION OF THE YEAR

Air New Zealand’s Airband has been named Innovation of the Year at the 2016 CAPA Asia Pacific Aviation
Awards. The Airband is a revolutionary wristband given to children aged five to 11 who are travelling
unaccompanied with the airline. The innovation was first introduced late last year and gives parents and
guardians peace of mind as it allows them to track their children’s journey. The Airband is embedded with a chip
that is scanned at key stages of the journey to trigger text notifications to up to five nominated contacts.
Notifications are sent during check-in at airport to confirm registration, when the child is boarding the plane,
when the flight has landed and they are handed over to ground staff, and when they are picked up by the
designated pick up person. Airbands can be booked online and cost US$10 per child per way for domestic flights,
and US$28 for international flights (airnewzealand.com.sg).

BRITISH AIRWAYS’
BOTLER AT YOUR
SERVICE
Let BOTler show you the ‘best of
the best’ insider’s scoop around
London this winter. British Airways
has launched its new BOTler, a
personal Facebook Messenger BOT
that serves customers by
highlighting numerous reasons to
visit London. BOTler will offer live
updates on exclusive deals and
personalised recommendations on
top of attractions and experiences
tailored for individuals. The smart

Celebrate 2017 with low fares from Fiji Airways

BOT is able to interact with users
of the Facebook Messenger app by
asking questions and providing
suggestions so as to learn more Start the year in style by visiting the untouched paradise of Fiji. The flag carrier of Fiji has its
about what the user is looking for hub at Nadi International Airport and offers more than 400 flights per week to 21
during their stay in London. destinations in 13 countries. Travellers flying from Singapore are now able to enjoy
Exclusive BOTler deals include twice-weekly direct flights onboard the comfortable Airbus 330-200 aircraft that
luxury for less stays at the seats 24 in Business Class, and 249 in Economy class. The 13-hour flight
Rosewood London, and up to 60% includes in-flight meals featuring South Pacific cuisine accompanied by
off at Biscester Village and a VIP award-winning international wines and beers, and served with Fiji Water. For
Pass and discounts at Westfield entertainment, enjoy a selection of movies, TV programmes and audio
London. Start engaging with channels on 15.4” or 10.6” screens. Economy class tickets for adults are
BOTler at m.me/BritishAirways. currently priced at US$482 for the season (fijiairways.com).

JANUARY 2017 23
South Australia,
where you can taste nature
and live cultures

Barossa Valley, as old as fine wine

Satiate your inner fill for fine wine in Australia’s oldest and finest wine producing regions
Wishing to sit atop undulating hills which astonishing views the valley offers.
offer row after row of vineyards while After a day of sightseeing, enjoy the fresh
listening to the explanations of a master seasonal produce, artisan foods or award-
connoisseur on how to taste fine wine? winning restaurants but most importantly
Then journey 60 kilometres northeast one should not miss out on the wine. Sip
towards the northeast of Adelaide to find from the region’s flagship spicy tasting shiraz
Australia’s finest vineyards in Barossa or visit Eden Valley for more varieties of
Valley. Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay.
Settled in 1842 by European For an unforgettable afternoon of fine wine
immigrants, the fabric of the land remains and dining, we recommend the Jacob’s
natural with some 150 wineries and cellar Creek Cooking Class where you will find a
doors awaiting your arrival. The preferred rejuvenated appreciation for food.
mode of transport here certainly favours Learn the roots and past stories of the
those who have learnt the art of balance, Barossa Valley through the Barossa Heritage
as the sensation of fresh wind bellowing Trail which will connect you to many
across one’s hair amid the activity of charming heritage towns, historic sites and
cycling is really second to none, unless cellar doors housed in historic buildings.
one decides to travel by hot air balloon Barossa Valley is certainly an ideal place to
or helicopter and witness from above the indulge and unwind.

24 JANUARY 2017
 A D V E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E

Adelaide’s Central Market

A bustling city centre with nearly 150 years of history
Attempting to figure out the fastest way
to understand Australian culture? Look no
further than the Adelaide’s Central Market
which oozes with history and merchants.
Ask any Adelaideans and they would
probably recall fond memories of coming
here as an infant or perhaps with a regular
old friend. First opening its doors on the
23rd of January in 1869, the market opened
with just a mere 500 people with all stock
being sold out by 6 am in the morning.
Boasting a total of 80 traders today under
one roof with some 8.5 million visitors each
year, Adelaide Central Market has evolved to
a point of recognition after being crowned
as the 2016 South Australian Tourism Gold
Award Winner. Take in the variety of food
offerings from veges to meats, cheeses to
bakery goods buzzing with vibrant colours
all year around. Whether its fine foods you
seek or gourmet cafes, the Adelaide Central
Market is the place to be to discover food
flavoured the Australian way.

Fleurieu Peninsula
Offering a perfect blend of indulgence,
culture and outdoor adventure
Situated just 45 minutes from Adelaide,
Fleurieu Peninsula offers an opportunity
to enter into all sorts of year-round fun.
Whether its world-class wineries, picturesque
townships, surf beaches or national parks,
Fleurieu Peninsula is sure to have something
for everyone. The peninsula has a fairly stable
temperate climate of between 24 degrees
Celsius to 27 degrees Celsius in summer,
perfect for those who love the balmy warmth
of summer. If it’s the taste of fine wine in which
you seek, look toward the regions of McLaren
Vale, Langhorne Creek, Currency Creek and
Southern Fleurieu which offer intimate cellar
door experiences and superb quality wine. If
you’re longing an ultimate coastal escape, look
towards Victor Harbor, a seaside town with
spectacular scenery that offers a horse-drawn
tram. Choose to escape to a time when trains
ruled the transportation landscape with the
Steam Ranger’s Heritage Railway which offers
a number of different heritage steam and diesel
hauled tourist trains to bring you on a leisurely
journey from the station at Mt Barker Junction
to Victor Harbour. Weave your own tales of
adventure when you journey into the tapestry
that is Fleurieu Peninsula.

JANUARY 2017 25
 Top 10 country to visit in 2017: Myanmar

Lonely Planet’s
Best in Travel 2017
The Best Trends, Destinations, Journeys
& Experiences for the year ahead.

Available in all good bookstores.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/best-in-travel
 EASY TRIPS

Easy Trips
THIS MONTH... recharge for the year ahead in Anji County,
celebrate the arts on the urban canvas of Singapore, and
stimulate the senses in summery Sydney

A NJ I C O U N T Y, C H I NA MAKE IT HAPPEN

Natural connection To get to Anji County, take a direct flight to Shanghai’s

Pudong International Airport first. China Eastern flies
WORDS: RAEWYN KOH. PHOTOGRAPH: ALILA ANJI

thrice daily from Singapore, while Shanghai Airlines,

Kickstart 2017 to be your best year yet with a weekend getaway to Anji Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia X all have one direct flight
County in Zhejiang Province, China. The offbeat and serene location, daily from Kuala Lumpur. From Shanghai, take a four-hour
with its breathtaking nature, is the perfect place to recharge from bus ride from Shanghai South Railway Station to Anji
end-year blues. Anji County in winter paints an ethereal picture of County; buses depart hourly.
snow-capped mountains, lush bamboo forests and a tranquil lake in Indulge in Alila Anji, a peaceful oasis situated on a hillside
the heart of it all. Its effortless hiking trails into the bamboo forests will overlooking Tian Fu Lake. Go on a hike through bamboo
certainly ease anyone into getting started on new year resolutions of forests, harvest winter produce for a “farm-to-table” dinner,
exercising and living in the moment more. The bamboo forest is also unwind with a spa treatment, and much more with the
great for indulging in an activity called “forest bathing”, which Winter Weekend Escapade, available now till 31 March 2017
involves breathing in the fresh air produced by flora to reduce stress (alilahotels.com/anji).
and increase relaxation.

JANUARY 2017 27
EASY TRIPS

PHOTOGRAPH: NATIONAL ART COUNCIL; ALIWAL ARTS CENTRE; STATE OF MOTION – DAVID BOWIE-RICOCHET; GOODMAN ARTS CENTRE
SINGAPORE MAKE IT HAPPEN

Singapore Art Week Singapore Art Week runs from 11 to 22 January 2017. A
full event schedule, as well as links to reserve tickets to
The island-city transforms into an urban canvas once more with the fifth ticketed events is available on artweek.sg. There’s also a
edition of Singapore Art Week 2017. The 12-day affair sees a celebration of handy feature to break down events by location for
the visual arts take place in venues across Singapore, from galleries and travellers hoping to focus on certain areas in Singapore.
museums to art precincts and non-profit spaces. Art transcends age this year Immerse art into your stay at Pan Pacific Orchard,
with multiple events targeted at families and young children, such as the Singapore. The centrally-located hotel will be taking part
Tanjong Goodman: Imaginary Compound & Weekend Market, and The Art of in Singapore Art Week as the host of Art Apart Fair 2017.
Stories that encourage children to get hands-on and creative in interactive The highly interactive exhibition explores the ways in
activities. There are also “less traditional” exhibitions to look forward to, which art mingles with living spaces on three levels of the
such as Aliwal Urban Art Festival that focuses on contemporary art and hotel, including its suites and Penthouse (panpacific.com/
graffiti, and State of Motion, a bus tour that roves around filming locations singapore).
featured in Singapore cinema.

28 JANUARY 2017
 EASY TRIPS

S Y D N E Y, AU S T R A L I A

Sydney
Festival
Incite the senses at Sydney Festival,
the annual cultural fest of the
summer. There are 150 events this
year, of which, a staggering 73 of are
free, and cover dance, theatre, opera,
cabaret, comedy, circus and more.
This year’s performers also hail from
15 countries in total. As the senses
are a key focus for the year,
audiences are encouraged to
participate in a series of events and
performances incorporating sensory
enhancement and deprivation. See,
or rather, smell, Sydney in a new
sight with Cat Jones’ Scent of
Sydney, a free immersive exhibition
by the conceptual and olfactory
artist, or intensify tactile
communication with Imagined
Touch by deaf-blind artists Heather
Lawson and Michelle Stevens. Other
highly anticipated acts include
Briefs: The Second Coming, which
has been described as a love child of
RuPaul’s Drag Race and an
Australian version of Cirque du
Soleil, as well as the world premiere
of Nude Live, a contemporary dance
performance performed in the nude.

MAKE IT HAPPEN

Sydney Festival will run from 7 to 29

January 2017. Most programmes are
ticketed but there are numerous free
performances as well. Check the full
schedule of events at sydneyfestival.
PHOTOGRAPH: SYDNEY FESTIVAL

org.au.
Celebrate Sydney by staying at the
recently launched Primus Hotel Sydney,
housed at the former 1930’s Sydney
Water Board headquarters. The CBD,
Hyde Park and emerging Koreatown are
all on this art deco boutique hotel’s
doorstep (primushotelsydney.com).

JANUARY 2017 29
EASY TRIPS

Asia’s overlooked alps

Unexpected places to ski in Asia away from maddening crowds and with
a different take on après skiing

PHOTOGRAPH: JASON MAXTED; YANIK TURGEON / SKIGULMARG.COM

Kashmir
Conquer the Himalayas in a new light by skiing down the challenging and
steep slopes of Gulmarg in Kashmir. Although not an obvious destination for MAKE IT HAPPEN
skiing, Gulmarg is getting increasingly popular for its off-piste skiing. Gulmarg
experiences thick snowfall each year that produces fine, powdery snow the Ski Gulmarg offers some of the most
locals call ‘curry powder’ due to the similar texture of the spice that features comprehensive and inclusive ski packages
heavily in Kashmir cuisine. While there are ski resorts with gentler slopes, the in the region that includes
real thrills begin 13,000ft above sea level that is only accessible by gondola accommodation, two-way airport
and requires a ski guide who knows the terrain to bring skiers down the slopes. transfer, ski guides and more. For
Off-piste skiing here often brings encounters with wildlife, such as foxes, and advanced skiers, off-piste skiing is also
even bears and snow leopards. For après skiing, return to the ski resorts for available through their website. Ski season
authentic Kashmir hospitality – curried stews, tandoor-baked breads and hot runs from 1 January to 31 March each year
tea to warm up cold and fatigued bodies. (skigulmarg.com).

30 JANUARY 2017
 EASY TRIPS

Dubai
There may not be snow this side of the Middle East but it
hasn’t stopped skiers from dropping by the world’s
entertainment centre for a chance to ski any time of the
year. Ski Dubai is the Middle East’s first indoor ski resort
and the world’s largest indoor snow park. The all-year
ski resort is covered by 22,500sqm of real snow and is set
at a comfortable temperature of -1 to -2˚C. Ski Dubai has
five runs that vary in difficulty, height and gradient,
which is perfect for beginners just off the bunny hill or
professional skiers looking for a new ski experience.
There is also a separate Freestyle Zone specifically built
for snowboarders to practice stunts without getting in
the way of other skiers. After a full day of skiing,
appreciate après skiing with a twist by riding the Snow
Bullet, the world’s first indoor sub-zero zipline, or catch
the March of the Penguins, a colony of Gentoo and King
penguins that make their way around Ski Dubai a few
times a day.

MAKE IT HAPPEN

Ski Dubai sells various packages ranging from an all-day Ski

Slope pass (inclusive of equipment rental; US$58) to an all-day
Snow Park pass (Ski Dubai Experience; US$138). There are also ski
lessons available for children as young as three to adults (from
US$50; skidubai.com).

Singapore
Just like Dubai, Singapore does not experience snow but
this hasn’t let the cosmopolitan be left out of skiing fun
all year round. For those who’ve gotten a taste of skiing
and want to indulge in the activity more without having
to pay for expensive flights and accommodation to ski
resorts halfway around the world, Urban Ski is a good
alternative to feed ski cravings way past ski season. The
ski slope is not covered in snow here but is a state of the
art indoor revolving ski slope that has adjustable
steepness and speeds to suit all skill levels. This is also a
great place for those who’d like to be more familiar with
skiing or snowboarding before heading out to bigger
slopes elsewhere. There are personal coaches who will
be able to help novices get acquainted with coordination
and more experienced skiers and snowboarders
improve technique. Après skiing here is definitely more
tropical – step outside into Singapore’s year-round
warm sunshine and enjoy museums, walking trails
through cultural alcoves, shopping at Orchard Road,
world-class cuisines, and even the beach!
PHOTOGRAPH: 123RF; URBAN SKI

MAKE IT HAPPEN

Urban Ski has various rates for private groups and public
sessions for various skiing and snowboarding levels (from US$70).
Public sessions are not available for advanced skiers and
snowboarders. Book at urbanski.com.sg

JANUARY 2017 31
EASY TRIPS

CLOCKWISE FROM WHAT’S MY ROOM LIKE?

TOP LEFT The Carissa
The 181 rooms and suites are well appointed and done in a
Pool Villas boast
uninterrupted views modern contemporary style, and come with dark wood flooring
of Patong Bay and and modern amenities. The biggest draw is that each room has
the Andaman Sea; its own private balcony and outdoor Jacuzzi.
rejuvenation is the
keyword for the WHAT AM I EATING?
luxurious Carissa Dining is exceptional, with three restaurants to choose from and a
Spa; all rooms come
with its own private
24-hour room service menu. The buffet at Blue Waters Restaurant
balcony and Jacuzzi allows you to binge on the freshest seafood, while the Alfa Club
and Restaurant offers delightful cocktails with grilled meats
including steak, and endless streams of satay.

REVIEW OF THE MONTH WHAT ELSE IS THERE?

There are a number of places to unwind after a day of sightseeing.
P H U K E T, T H A I L A N D Head to Carissa Spa for warm Thai hospitality with traditional Thai

Wyndham Sea
body massages and skincare treatments. If your personal Jacuzzi
proves too small for swimming laps, there is also the Club House
where a 35m club house pool and fitness centre with recreational
activities are available.

Pearl Phuket BEYOND THE FRONT DOOR

For a glimpse into the simple joys of farm life, look no further than

WORDS: MELISSA LORRAINE CHUA. PHOTOGRAPH: WYNDHAM SEA PEARL PHUKET

Vanich Farm. Curiously wedged between buildings, the farm is a
WHY PHUKET? beacon of agrotourism in cosmopolitan Phuket. Get all sorts of
Phuket is known as the pearl of the Andaman Sea, and this label hands on as you experience working a rice field, harvesting corn,
conjures up images of five-star luxury resorts that line the beaches of and participate in a little cooking action for lunch.
Phuket. But the seasoned (and sophisticated) traveller to Phuket If looking for other great getaway options beyond the tried
knows that there’s much more to this fascinating island than the and tested islands of Koh Phi Phi and the monolithic karsts of
raucous crowds on the beach. Phuket has a rich Peranakan history Phang Nga Bay, opt for Blu Anda’s ‘Sawasdee Koh Hong Krabi’
and is fast becoming a major dining destination due to its designation itinerary (bluanda.com) that will take you to the sheltered bay
as a member of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network as a ‘City of of Koh Hong and the private Big Tree Island. Blu Anda does all
Gastronomy’. the preparations so that you don’t have to – they provide the
works, from protective shoes and snorkelling gear to endless
WHY WYNDHAM? refreshments and a sumptuous picnic lunch to be enjoyed
The brand is one of the most globally represented, with hotels and mid-day.
resorts in more than 22 countries and on five continents, in key resort
and urban locations. The Wyndham Sea Pearl Phuket is far from the WHAT’S THE DAMAGE?
hordes of tourists and is set on 16 acres of lush hilltop with views of Rooms start from US$165 per night, going up to US$950 per
Patong Bay and the Andaman Sea, while boasting a location convenient night for a Carissa Pool Villa that comes with its own private
enough for guests to access the plethora of entertainment along the pool, spacious terrace, lounges and an outdoor shower
beach, without compromising on peace and tranquillity. (wyndhamseapearlphuket.com).

32 JANUARY 2017
 NEW LOOK!
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FOR THOSE
WHO ARE
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ABOUT
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 City at a glance:
HELSINKI
Finland’s compact little capital is filled with charming harbourside attractions, a
growing gastronomic scene, and such titillating design that even a brief sojourn to the
city can prove to be a truly satisfying journey of fashion, food and fun
WORDS MELISSA LORRAINE CHUA

PHOTOGRAPH: VISIT FINLAND - JUSSI HELLSTEN

Harbourfront
housing is just one
of the many tranquil
benefits of life in
Helsinki

34 JANUARY 2017
 The Port of
Helsinki is a hub
of life for this
waterfront city

Cheeses galore at
the Old Market Hall

version of the candy that has been

flavoured with ammonium chloride.
With the recent launch of Finnair’s
direct route from Singapore to Helsinki,
and the StopOver Finland program –
jointly organised by Finnair and Visit
Finland – that allows passengers
travelling via Helsinki to transit for up to
five days before continuing on to their

T
destination country, Finland has never
been more accessible than it is now,
whether it’s a quick sampling of Helsinki,
HE STYLISH AND YOUNG
(by Nordic standards)
capital of Finland is a
hotbed of design that
churns out some of the
“God did not create haste.”
most electrifying fashion and art in the
- Finnish proverb
world today; Helsinki was designated the
World Design Capital in 2012, and has not beets and mushrooms round out the a visit to Santa Claus in Rovaniemi, or an
lost any of its momentum since. A hipster earthy palate of most Finnish dishes. extended trip up to Lapland for a glimpse
heaven of craft-beer bars, boutique coffee Sauna (correctly pronounced sao-nah, of the Northern Lights. 2017 will also be a
roasteries, artist workshops and galleries, not saw-nah) is the way of life in Finland. great year to visit Helsinki because of its
and glorious art-nouveau buildings, the That and liquorice; even chocolates here centenary, which means a plethora of
city (once ruled by the Swedish, then the come with liquorice centres. For the celebrations, exhibitions, and special
Russians) is an intriguing microcosm of daring of heart, be sure to sample some events for you to play away under the
cutting-edge design and innovative salmiakki while you’re here, a salty midnight sun.
gastronomy juxtaposed against stoic
centenarian architecture and the
Suomenlinna
conservative Finnish demeanour. But in
ferry in winter
spite of its more cosmopolitan vibe in
recent years, Helsinki still reflects much
PHOTOGRAPHS: © VISIT HELSINKI -SEPPO LAAKSO, THEMES/HELSINKI BY THE SEA

of traditional Finland’s slower pace of

life, with emphasis on sports and physical
health, a commitment to work-life
balance (most office hours end at 430pm
so parents can pick their children from
school), and a deep involvement with
nature.
Food in Helsinki has a strong emphasis
on local sourcing, with cream-based
dishes making a more significant presence
during the winter months. Other
interesting eats including smoked
reindeer, canned bear meat, pickled
herring, and a variety of nutrition-rich
‘superfoods’ including cloudberries, sea
buckthorns, and birch sap. On multiple
occasions you will find white fish and
seafood bulking up most of the protein in
your meal, while forest flavours such as

JANUARY 2017 35
Löyly
The hottest new place in town (no pun intended) is Löyly, a magnificent public sauna built to be
environmentally sustainable and eco-friendly, and a self-dubbed “urban oasis on Helsinki’s
waterfront”. Löyly’s saunas are a thing of beauty, offering a traditional smoke sauna as well as a
wood-fired sauna. The purpose of the compound’s outdoor seating area is to allow guests direct
access to the sea, where they can dip to cool off in between steam sessions. Even if you’re not looking
to participate in sauna, Löyly is also a great place to catch up over drinks, with the outdoor decks
overlooking the water being exceeding popular during summer. Löyly loosely translates to mean “the
steam that rises when you throw water onto hot stones in a sauna”, because yes, that’s how much the
Finns need a word for that.
Oloylyhelsinki.fi/en

Attractions
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
Stunning aerial view of Loyly;
a traditional smoke sauna;
Helsinki Senate Square at Helsinki City Museum
night; the sun-dappled grounds Pass the grand Helsinki Senate Square
of Suomenlinna with its recognisable dome-shaped
roof and statue of Alexander II in its
front square, and you’ll find the petite

PHOTOGRAPHS: PAUL WILLIAMS / VISIT HELSINKI, JUSSI HELLSTEN / VISIT HELSINKI

Suomenlinna but educational Helsinki Design
One of the most popular attractions in Museum. This unique little showcase
Helsinki, this 18th-century fortress and of modern Helsinki history even
naval base has seen Finland through three includes a smell room, where visitors
stages of rule: under the Swedish, under the are invited to identify a mystery smell
Russians, and in defence of its – related to life in Finland – that
independence. Suomenlinna has been on changes monthly. The museum’s
UNESCO’s World Heritage List since main purpose is to create a
1991, and features as a unique connection between visitor and
monument of military architecture history, which explains why its main
that is best explored through a guided tenets are immersion and interaction;
walking tour; learn about the fortress’s visitors can physically inject
colourful past as you saunter through themselves into a fully replicated
the Great Courtyard and visit the dry living room of the 1950s, or visit a
dock, once the largest in the world. For vintage diner with fully functioning
more information, contact the only jukebox that plays a rotational setlist
authorised guide service Ehrensvärd Society of 24 songs.
at guidebooking@suomenlinnatours.com. Ohelsinginkaupunginmuseo.fi/en
Osuomenlinna.fi

36 JANUARY 2017
 H E L S I N K I AT A G L A N C E

Kuurna
One of the more sought-after restaurants in
town – it features on the Michelin Guide so
be sure to book early – Kuurna offers a
three-course set menu for dinner and an
ever-changing selection of blackboard
specials that showcase what’s best in season
at the time of dining. Although quite near the
CLOCKWISE FROM harbourfront, the restaurant has an intimate
TOP LEFT cellar-like atmosphere that seats only twenty
Two-thirds of at once. We recommend opting for the
Vinkkeli’s charming
seafood every time.
team; sapas,
Okuurna.fi
Finland’s answer
to tapas; newly
renovated, the Old
Market Hall is now
brighter and more
inviting Juuri
Exuding an air of casual disrepair
and “unfinished chic” with paint
peeling off the walls and
exposed brick peeking
through, Juuri serves a
delightful range of
Finnish tapas –
Vinkkeli named sapas. A
It’s easy to fall in love with Vinnkeli for its dedication to variety of small
timeless, elegant dining; unpretentiously warm and witty dishes featuring
service (a rarity as Finns are usually more reserved); and heavily of pickled
honestly good food. Founded by a trio of Savoy alumni, the fish, sour cream
restaurant sports completely no whiff of pretentiousness, and horseradish is
with owner personally running the floor and kitchen. They rounded off with a
also serve a wonderful birch sap wine – sounds funky but richly spiced carrot
tastes wonderfully crisp and fruity. cake that is heavy on
Oravintolavinkkeli.fi/ en the ginger; just the way
we like it.
Ojuuri.fi/en

Food
Old Market Hall
Pop in to the Old Market Hall for some local produce and
interesting eats; this landmark has served customers since
1888 and was reopened in 2014 after a complete
renovation. Stall keepers who have been in business for
PHOTOGRAPHS: PEKKA KERÄNEN / VISIT HELSINKI

decades have returned and are joined by attractive new

restaurants and café; one of the longest-serving businesses
is Juustokauppa Tuula Paalanen which peddles a mind-
boggling variety of cheese. Look out for stalls hawking
handcrafted teas (we brought home a loose leaf infusion of
strawberry, nettle, birch leaf and liquorice root), exotic cured
meats and smoked seafood (expect fresh organic pork sausages,
deshelled prawns larger than your fist, and more varieties of
gravlax that you can shake a stick at), and even a vegetarian store
that specialises in raw and sprouted food.
Ovanhakauppahalli.fi/en

JANUARY 2017 37
 Klaus K Hotel
A member of Design Hotels™ that’s also
located along the Bulevardi strip, Klaus K
Hotel is an ode to the Kalevala, a 19th-
century volume of poetry compiled by
Elias Lönnrot about Finnish folklore and
mythology. From its lobby to its rooms
and award-winning Toscanini restaurant,
the hotel’s interiors are arrestingly
dramatic, yet retain a distinctly organic
aesthetic.
Oklauskhotel.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT

Elegant digs along
Bulevardi with Klaus K
Hotel; harbour views are
part of the package with
Hotel Haven; fuss-free
accommodations with
Hotel Indigo

Hotel Haven
If leaving a smaller carbon
footprint helps you sleep

Hotels
better, then the eco-friendly
Hotel Haven is for you.
Exclusive comfort and high
quality service is bundled
with homely warmth
(there’s a fireplace right in
the lobby) and tasteful,
elegant furnishings. The best
part – the Lux Sea View
rooms come with the added
bonus of a harbour view!
Ohotelhaven.fi

Hotel Indigo Helsinki –

Boulevard
Move into the Hotel Indigo PHOTOGRAPHS: CENTRAL RESTAURANTE , MAIDO
Helsinki – Boulevard for the best
springboard to visit the city’s
Design District. The new kid on
the block, this five-star
boutique hotel is rich with
tastefully curated furnishings,
and has the added bonus of
being on the IHG portfolio for
membership benefits.
Ohotelindigo.com/helsinki

38 JANUARY 2017
 H E L S I N K I AT A G L A N C E

Design District
Helsinki’s Design District encapsulates all that is chic in the city
– and there’s even a touring map to help you navigate the
highlights. The Design District collective is a cluster of creative
businesses brimming with the very best of local design,
including jewellers, antique shops, art galleries, and apparel
boutiques. Membership to the collective is strictly quality-
controlled, and members pay a nominal annual fee that funds
promotional efforts. Browse and purchase art and
homeware at Lokal; pick up Japanese-inspired
designs at 2OR+BYYAT; or step out in style
with a pair of FINSK’s atelier shoes.
Odesigndistrict.fi/en

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT

Art galleries and boutique
fashion studios densely
populate the Design
District; whimsical designs
are a trademark of Minna
Parikka; TRE’s first brick-
and-mortar store

Shopping

Minna Parikka
We went a little crazy
for Minna Parikka’s
iconic bunny-eared
collection – glitter,
PHOTOGRAPHS: ST. REGIS ABU DHABI, EMIRATES PALACE

faux fur, and high-cut

sneakers are the way to
a girl’s heart. Even the
TRE window display is
The first physical store for online retailer TRE is appropriately eccentric,
a 400-square metre concept store filled with with neon planetary baubles
the biggest collection of Finnish design and framing a stylish spaghetti
fashion under one roof. Expect furniture, monster-esque model posing
apparel, skincare, and books; beyond oh-so-coquettishly. Join the
marimekko. There’s even an in-house café for following that includes Taylor Swift,
shoppers who need a caffeine boost. Daisy Lowe, Kylie Jenner and Suki the Pug (yes,
Oworldoftre.com a celebrity pug).
Ominnaparikka.com

JANUARY 2017 39
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 N E W YO R K S TAT E

Great Escape
N E W Y O R K S T A T E
There’s a lot more to the Empire State than its most famous city: head upstate
to discover farm-to-table feasts in the Catskills, a vast wilderness of
lakes and mountains in the Adirondacks and cutting-edge art in Hudson,
before drinking in Brooklyn’s spirit scene and setting sail for the Hamptons
WORDS SOPHIE MCGRATH @SophieLMcGrath O PHOTOGRAPHS DAN HALLMAN @DanHallman

G R E AT E S C A P E

Montauk Point Lighthouse

dates from 1796, and
stands on Long Island
at the easternmost tip
of New York State

JANUARY 2017 41
N E W YO R K S TAT E

Plan your trip

1 Feast on country
produce straight
from the source, just
2 Traverse lakes
and scale
mountains in the
3 Discover trail-
blazing art and
design in the shops,
4 Head back to
the big city
and raise a glass to
5 Take to the
water in the
Hamptons to
a few hours from the Adirondacks, studios and galleries inventive drinking in discover this well-
city in the farms and one of the larg- of the revived town Brooklyn’snewcrop heeled seaside
restaurants of the est wildernesses in of Hudson (p50). of bars and brewer- retreat’s surprising
Catskills (p46). America (p48). ies (p52). maritime past (p54).

MAP ILLUSTRATION: ALEX VERHILLE. PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDRII GORULKO/ALAMY, ROB LATOUR/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK, RICHARD LEENEY/GETTY IMAGES,
MOVIESTORE COLLECTION/ALAMY, PIXELFORMULA/SIPA/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK, MATTEO PRANDONI/BFANYC.COM/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

42 JANUARY 2017
 N E W YO R K S TAT E

ON THE ROA
ROAD

Sink
S
Fr
Fresh-from-the-barrel craft beer
from the state’s ever-expanding crop
fro
of microbreweries – like the fruity
HOW TO GET THERE roughly US$2 per gallon (about 50¢ Ubu ale from Lake Placid Pub &
Ub
From Singapore, fly United Airlines to per litre); budget around US$123 in Brewery, or Catskill Brewery’s
Br
Newark Airport with a stopover in San total for a full-size vehicle. Most heady Devil’s Path IPA (7.5%).
he
Francisco (united.com; from US$903). purchases incur a state sales tax of
If flying from Kuala Lumpur, fly Qatar around 9% – be sure to factor this into
Airways to JFK with one stopover in prices. Don’t forget to tip: around
Doha (qatarairways.com; from 10%–20% for taxi drivers, 15%–25%
US$890). for waiter service and at least a dollar
per drink for bar staff.
HOW TO GET AROUND Read
A hire car is the best way to explore WHEN TO GO Inside the Apple: A Streetwise
Upstate New York. All the usual This trip is best taken between late History of New York City
car-hire firms have locations at New spring and mid-autumn, after which (US$14.45; Free Press), a guide to
York’s airports (from around US$50 the Adirondacks are carpeted with the city’s rollicking past that
per day; dollar.com). State law snow and many places in the includes maps and walking tours.

G R E AT E S C A P E
means minimum liability insurance Hamptons close for the off-season.
is included. Carry at least US$25 in Avoid high summer, when New York is
cash for tolls, especially in and out of stiflingly hot and muggy. In May and Look
New York City; an electronic pass September you’ll find milder weather, out for
can save 5% (US$25; e-zpassny. fewer crowds and lower prices. Stars such as Paul
com). It’s also possible to do most of Mid-October is prime time to witness McCartney, Gwyneth
this itinerary by public transport: the the state’s glorious autumn foliage. and Steven Spielberg
river-hugging Adirondack train – just a few of the
connects New York City’s Penn WHO CAN HELP celebrities who up sticks
Station with Hudson town (2¼ Independent planning is easy to do to the Hamptons
hours; amtrak.com), and also for this trip, but many operators offer in summer.
Westport (six hours) from where customisable self-drive itineraries.
there's a 45-minute bus connection America As You Like It includes a
to Lake Placid in the Adirondacks. 13-night option with stops in the
The Hamptons are 2½–3½ hours Hamptons, the Hudson Valley, the
from Penn Station on the Long
Island Railroad (lirr42.mta.info).
Adirondacks and the Catskills (from
US$1,600 incl flights, accommodation
Buy
Garnet jewellery made by artisanss
and car hire; americaasyoulikeit.com). in the Adirondacks, home to one of
HOW LONG TO SPEND the world’s largest deposits of thee
Plan to spend a couple of days in each HOW TO PLAN red stone (also the state gem).
place – ideally more in attraction- Pick up Lonely
packed New York City, and also in the Planet’s Eastern
Adirondacks, with its vast areas to USA guide Watch
explore. The round-trip is nearly 1,000 (US$24.99) or Cult classic Dirty
miles, so be sure to factor in driving download the Dancing, set in a resort in
times and rest breaks. It’s possible to ‘New York, New the Catskills in the ’60s,
complete the trip in about 12 days, Jersey & when New Yorkers
but best to allow two weeks or longer. Pennsylvania’ flocked to the area for
chapter (US$4.95; their summer holidays.
WHAT TO BUDGET lonelyplanet.com); there’s more road
Costs vary across the state. A typical trip inspiration in
hotel and evening meal might cost the New York & Mid-Atlantic’s Best Bring
US$185 and US$40 respectively in Trips guide (US$24.99). Find additional Sandals for ambling along the
he
New York City, less than this in the resources at nylovesu.co.uk, and beaches of the Hamptons,
Catskills and more in the Hamptons. regional websites visitthecatskills. which can get as hot as
However, budget-friendly options like com, visitadirondacks.com, the local gossip.
guesthouses, street food and cafés are gotohudson.net, nycgo.com and
available across the route. Petrol costs hamptonsvc.com.

JANUARY 2017 43
N E W YO R K S TAT E

See the
state’s first
dawn...
44 JANUARY 2017
 N E W YO R K S TAT E
The Atlantic laps onto
Sagg Main Beach at
Sagaponack, part of
the Hamptons, at the
prosperous eastern end
of Long Island

G R E AT E S C A P E

JANUARY 2017 45
N E W YO R K S TAT E

1. The Catskills
Émigrés from the big city have transformed the dining scene in this hilly, rural part
of Upstate New York, making the most of an abundance of superior local ingredients

I
N DELAWARE COUNTY, EVEN Peekamoose was founded when top NYC range, making everything from simple whole
breakfast is a feast. The dishes restaurateurs Devin and Marybeth Mills milk to yoghurt, and the Eastern European
scrawled on Table on Ten’s moved upstate to be closer to the produce drink kefir, using herbs, fruit and maple
chalkboard menu – ‘Red Egg in a they used; now, these ingredients feature in sourced from surrounding farms.
Pan’, ‘Ham & Cheese’ – may sound daily changing dishes like slow-braised beef In turn, Cowbella supplies ingredients to
simple, but the flavours are not: perfectly or rainbow trout, accompanied by a drinks the growing number of establishments that
runny eggs in a rich, slow-cooked marinara; list of local craft beers and spirits. share a passion for wholesome, homegrown
smoky prosciutto with mozzarella and The Catskills’ agricultural pride is evident food. ‘There are a lot of local restaurants
home-made pesto; honey-drenched granola everywhere you look. Rural roads are lined popping up that are willing to go the extra
with delicately scented maple yoghurt. with farm stands and wagons displaying mile to make sure the food is coming from a
This inviting spread is served at plain dusky turnips, crisp greens and canary- place people can believe in,’ Shannon says,
tables dressed with jars of flowers, in duck- yellow squash. At farmers’ markets like the cows lowing and chomping contentedly
egg blue rooms with bare floors: an aesthetic one in the small town of Delhi (‘dell-high’), around her. ‘It’s really exciting to see it
that wouldn’t look out of place in one of the dozens of producers show off their wares. happen and to be a part of it.’
trendier neighbourhoods of New York City. As a folk band plays in the main square,
Instead, Table on Ten occupies a rickety old fruit and veg sellers chat with bag-laden Drive for 3½ hours north along Interstates 88 and
farmhouse in Bloomville, a hamlet in the shoppers browsing wild-haired carrots, 87, passing increasingly rugged scenery, to the
western Catskills. A scenic expanse of soft peaches and tomatoes in traffic light wild lakes and mountains of the Adirondacks.
mountains and rolling fields, this unsung colours. A woman with bees painted on her
region is at the heart of a budding culinary nails sells gleaming jars of raw honey; next
movement, with new restaurants and to her are stalls laden with maple syrup and Essentials
growers championing local produce and home-made blueberry wine. The air is a
conjuring inventive farm-to-table cuisine. patchwork of shifting scents, basil and
‘It’s pretty cool to have this in the middle thyme mingling with Gouda cheese.
of nowhere,’ says chef and waiter Scott Although the Catskills’ food scene is
Neild, a former actor who upped sticks from enjoying a bit of a moment, nearby Danforth
New York City to live in a log cabin up the Jersey Farm could be considered two
road in Bovina. The Catskills have form in centuries ahead of the game – it has been
enticing jaded city-dwellers: Table on Ten churning out the area’s best dairy products
came about after Inez Valk-Kempthorne since 1817. ‘We’ve become part of this
fell for the area during weekends visiting amazing local food network,’ says sixth-
friends. Like many recent arrivals she was generation farmer Shannon Mason as she
inspired by the potential for a freer, more tends to a field of chestnut cows shining in
communal life on the land. Today, her the noon sun, the warm air thick with the
restaurant serves a seasonal menu based chirrup of crickets. She lives on the farm
on ingredients supplied by neighbouring with her children and parents, plus a whole
farmers and growers – it changes depending menagerie of animals: in the old hay barn
on what they bring through the door. a litter of newborn kittens mewl, while
‘Everyone here works so hard providing Charlie the golden retriever circles the yard.
pure, wonderful food,’ says Scott as he ‘The cows are like extended family – you
gathers a pile of logs to stoke the restaurant’s develop a relationship with them,’ says
pizza oven. ‘It’s a real community.’ Later, Shannon, who recognises each of her 100 In Roxbury village, The Roxbury Motel offers
the old farm and its light-strung garden will Jerseys instantly and knows their different a range of spacious rooms, many extravagantly
hum with locals and weekenders sharing personalities. ‘This is not only our home, it’s themed, among them the opulent Mozart-styled
Table on Ten’s much-loved sourdough their home, and we feel a big responsibility ‘Amadeus’ Bride’ (pictured) and homages to film
pizzas – like their signature shaved dark to give them the best life we can.’ This love noir, Indiana Jones and The Wizard of Oz. There’s
chocolate, ricotta and honey – as a band is reflected in the farm’s Cowbella-branded also a firepit deck and a spa with hot tub and
strums an accompaniment. products – their butter, for example, gets its sauna (from US$93; theroxburymotel.com).
One pioneer of farm-to-fork dining in the bright yellow hue because the herd is left Table on Ten is open from Thursday to Sunday
Catskills was nearby Peekamoose, where the free to graze outdoors day and night. The (breakfast from US$5.50; tableonten.com) and
ethos of living off the land is writ large. Its family business was born out of this single Peekamoose from Thursday to Monday (mains
art and furniture are made from fallen trees, product – Shannon’s widowed great-great- from US$20; peekamooserestaurant.com). Delhi
farm tools and old barn timber. A stuffed grandmother provided for her six young Farmers’ Market runs on Wednesdays (Jun–Sep).
coyote named Phyllis peers from the rafters, children by making and selling butter. The Email for tours of Cowbella (cowbella.com).
one of a cast of taxidermied beasts. company has since greatly expanded its

46 JANUARY 2017
 N E W YO R K S TAT E

Table on Ten’s Red Egg in a Pan.

LEFT The ramshackle exterior
of the restaurant. RIGHT
Chef and waiter Scott Neild

Vintage farm machinery is a

common sight in the Catskills.
RIGHT Produce at a farm stand
near Roxbury. FAR RIGHT A pet
chicken outside a local farm

G R E AT E S C A P E
Cows graze at Danforth Jersey
Farm. LEFT A folk band plays
at Delhi Farmers’ Market.
FAR LEFT A nearby farmstand

JANUARY 2017 47
N E W YO R K S TAT E

2. The Adirondacks
Half a day from New York City is the largest natural preserve in the continental US –
a place of serene lakes, rare wildlife, forest, waterfalls and towering peaks

I
T’S NOT YET DAWN AS GUIDE creeks, white water,’ says Rivka as she Framing Lower Saranac Lake is another
Rivka Cilley makes her way nudges her canoe around a pine-covered of the Adirondacks’ great attractions: the
downriver, the rhythmic slip and island. ‘It’s endless, I’ve not seen it all.’ 46 mountains of the High Peaks. Rising in
plunge of her oars amplified in the Nature-lover Rivka and her husband run folds from the landscape like crumpled
still night. Now and then, a sudden St Regis Canoe Outfitters, which offers napkins, their geology is technically out of
noise interrupts the quiet: an unseen bird trips in the park’s north and west, where this world, featuring billion-year-old
darting overhead; the scuffle of reeds many of its 3,000 lakes are found. Lower anorthosite, found often on the moon but
against her canoe; a gust of wind as she and Upper Saranac Lake are two of the rarely on Earth. Each of the High Peaks
emerges onto Lower Saranac Lake. And prettiest, garnering the lyrical Algonquian reaches close to or above 4,000 feet (1,220
then, slowly, pink light spreads over the names of Lake of the Clustered Stars and metres), but getting to the top needn’t be a
glassy water, tiptoeing up to its shoreline Lake of the Silver Skies, but to Rivka, the daunting task: at Whiteface Mountain, for
thick with cedars and white pine. As the whole area is enchanting. ‘The example, a hairpin road snakes all the way
plaintive howls of loon birds echo over the combination of the mountains and the to a craggy summit. Other peaks make for a
water, the clouds part and shift to reveal, bit lakes makes it so beautiful’, she says. ‘It’s pleasant challenge along some of the most
by bit, a ring of distant, undulating peaks. pristine – you get to see a lot of different exhilarating stretches of the park’s
This is the Adirondacks: a six-million- animals and flowers’. 2,000-plus miles of trails.
acre park as large as Yosemite, Yellowstone, The survival of this place is no happy On the short, steep path up 877-metre
Grand Canyon and Great Smoky Mountains accident. In the 19th century, writers such Mount Jo, a little effort yields big rewards.
national parks combined, with change. For as Henry David Thoreau sought respite Butterflies flit over the narrow trail as it
thousands of years, the native Algonquin here, soon followed by waves of city- winds through dense forest, the cover of
and Iroquois peoples came here seasonally dwellers and industrialists. The ensuing trees – copper and silver birches, maples
to hunt and fish in dugout canoes, and their development, combined with timbering, in showers of ruby red and dolly mixture
legacy endures in many place names decimated the park. But this disaster led the pink – giving way now and again to a flash
(Adirondack itself means ‘bark-eater’, state to impose strict laws; today, the of sky or a dizzying glance over the valley
an Iroquoian insult to their neighbours). Adirondacks is, in the legislature’s poetic below. Lined with milkweed and tiny
Though it’s now crossed by roads, there words, ‘Forever Wild’. It’s now home to mushrooms, the path finally opens onto
are few more scenic ways to explore than by more than 50 mammal species, from the wide rock ledge of the summit, where
the Adirondacks’ old highways: its rivers itinerant moose and black bears to bobcats the hulking forms of much bigger peaks –
and lakes. ‘There are so many different and flying squirrels, while bald eagles often Wright, Algonquin, the very tallest, Mount
places to paddle – big lakes, small ponds, take to the skies. Marcy – loom in the distance.

Rivka Cilley steers her canoe

across Lower Saranac Lake. IN-
SET Views of Lake Placid from
Whiteface Mountain, where
visitors can see as far
as Montreal on a clear day

48 JANUARY 2017
 N E W YO R K S TAT E

Essentials

Beside Mirror Lake in the town of Lake Placid,

The Haus has ten light-filled suites, with Nordic-
style bare-wood floors, earthy hues and décor
carved from birch trees. Each has a kitchen and
fireplace (from US$167; thehauslakeplacid.com).
St Regis Canoe Outfitters runs canoe and
kayak trips (½-day from £55; canoeoutfitters.
com). High Peaks Mountain Adventures arranges

G R E AT E S C A P E
tailor-made guided hikes and other outdoor
activities (from US$204; hpmountainguides.com).

Drive south along Interstate 87, heading back

through the mountains to the artistic hub of
Hudson, about three hours away.

JANUARY 2017 49
N E W YO R K S TAT E

A work by Eli Merritt at

46 Green Street Studios.
ABOVE FROM LEFT
The space also houses
artists’ studios; the
gallery’s co-founders
Dave Schwing and
Bob Bacigalupi

3FortySeven offers an
eclectic range of antique
and vintage finds inside an
Art Deco service station

3. Hudson
The once-neglected riverside town of Hudson has blossomed into a centre
of cutting-edge art, design and culture

I
T’S UNBELIEVABLE. TEN YEARS ‘I don’t think either of us knew the extent pressures of ever-pricier NYC, artists and
ago they were talking about how of the art community here,’ says Dave as makers are flooding in once again. By the

‘ Hudson would be, and now it’s

happening,’ says curator Dave
Schwing as he casts an approving
eye around the latest exhibition at his
he visits one of the on-site studios, strewn
with paint-smeared palettes and stacks
of canvases. ‘Everyone’s coming north’.
As artists and art-lovers discover Hudson,
station, a former train wheel foundry is now
the Basilica Hudson cultural space, hosting
film screenings, art shows and live music in
its halls. And in a 1930s theatre, renowned
gallery space, 46 Green Street Studios. just over two hours’ drive from Manhattan, performance artist and local resident Marina
Arranged on the walls and floor around new ventures are adding spark to the town’s Abramovic is at work on a new multi-
him is a Franken-menagerie of creatures, already-electric cultural scene. disciplinary arts venue, opening next year.
the work of previously unknown local artist It’s quite a transformation. A former port Nowhere is Hudson’s infusion of
Eli Merritt: a scrap-metal lion with a bright upstream from New York City on the river creativity more palpable than on Warren
cable mane, a wire-sculpted man with hinge for which it is named, in its 19th-century Street, the lively main drag that runs the
knees and light-bulb lungs, and a dinosaur heyday Hudson was a booming merchant length of the neatly gridded town. Inside its
straight out of a Jurassic junkyard. town and base for artists, drawn to the area parade of colourful townhouses are an array
These found-object pieces could be for its delicate light and rugged scenery. But of indie boutiques, galleries and antique
considered a metaphor for Hudson itself in the post-war decades, it became a place of dealers – 70 and counting – their wares
– an old and somewhat abandoned place, boarded-up shop-fronts and grand buildings spanning the centuries: from an ornate
recently revived by creative forces. Dave fallen into disrepair, as its fortunes followed 19th-century opium bed to ’50s shop signs
and two friends founded 46 Green Street local industry into decline. Things began to and milk bottles. Cafés with pavement
Studios three years ago in a run-down old turn around in the 1980s, when the first of tables are full of people drinking coffee
accounting office, and its popularity has 70 or more antique dealers moved in. Now, and chatting, while reggae drifts from the
surprised even them. spurred on by its vintage treasures and the open doors of a record store. ‘Shop Local’

50 JANUARY 2017
 N E W YO R K S TAT E

The Hudson River Exchange

sells locally made goods.
BELOW LEFT The entrance to
the Ecosystem boutique

G R E AT E S C A P E
Warren Street’s
colourful façades
house offbeat shops
such as Behida Dolić
Millinery.
LEFT Antique milk
bottles for sale

demands one business’s chalkboard sign; their mark in Hudson, whether with hand- and in the corner is a fridge packed with jars
here, it’s impossible not to. loomed batik fabric, ’40s-inspired hats, or the of sauerkraut. In most places a flowers-and-
The phrase could be the unofficial slogan outlandish offerings of Flowerkraut. fermented-cabbage shop might raise an
of the Hudson River Exchange, a bunting- Founded last year by a Scottish flower eyebrow or two, but not here in Hudson.
strung shop midway along Warren Street designer, it displays a bizarre trio of goods:
selling work from a rotating selection of plant pots full of the season’s blooms hang Drive south along the Taconic State Parkway to
upstate artists. Forget-me-not-blue bowls, from the walls and ceiling, shelves display New York City, passing through the Bronx and
hand-printed notelets and asymmetric artisanal ceramic pots, soap and stationery, Queens to Brooklyn on a journey of 2½ hours.
dresses are among the items on sale today.
Tucked behind the shop, opposite a tiny
room overflowing with boldly patterned Essentials
second-hand clothes, is the studio of Inside a handsome old boarding house, WM Farmer and Sons is
jeweller Russell Jones. ‘Hudson’s perfect’, a welcoming hotel with beautifully designed suites full of antique
he says emphatically as he carefully cuts and vintage pieces. Hand-picked by the chef-and-designer owners
a length of silver wire, his tiny eye-glasses on their travels, these include items like weathered wooden chests
giving him the look of a madcap inventor. and historic maps. Downstairs, there’s a coffee shop selling pastries
His worktable is strewn with scattered gems in an evocative timbered space, and a bar-room offering craft
and wispy curls of metal, the raw materials cocktails (from US$148; wmfarmerandsons.com).
of his elegant, nature-inspired pieces. After For details of upcoming exhibitions and events at 46 Green St
nearly a decade living on a boat in Brooklyn, Studios and Basilica Hudson, see 46greenstreetstudios.com and
Russell came to Hudson two years ago
basilicahudson.com. Follow progress on the future Marina
feeling he’d be more at home among its
Abramovic Institute (MAI) at mai-hudson.org. See more of
jewellers and designers. ‘It’s a really nice
Hudson’s antique shops and boutiques at gotohudson.net, and find
community of people who make things,
info about the Hudson River Exchange, Russell Jones Jewelry
and recognise quality,’ he says. ‘There’s
lots of opportunity here.’ and Flowerkraut Hudson at hudsonriverexchange.com;
Warren Street’s shops attest to the russelljonesjewelry.com; flowerkrauthudson.com.
unconventional craftspeople who’ve made

JANUARY 2017 51
N E W YO R K S TAT E
4. Brooklyn
Nearly a century since Prohibition, one Big Apple borough
is toasting a new era of spirit-making and creative drinking

H
OPEFUL NEWCOMERS history piqued Bridget’s interest. ‘I grew up in a
to New York City may not house with an old speakeasy in the basement,
have found streets paved with and hung out on a beach where
gold, but in the 1860s they a ton of rum was run in.’ Prohibition liquor was
might have seen them stream also of famously poor quality, and here, happily,
with whiskey. Back then, Brooklyn was a the Daq Shaq breaks with history.
hotbed of illicit liquor production: Over in the Cobble Hill neighbourhood, Latin
its gangs prospered despite the efforts of the American-inspired Leyenda instead pays tribute
Manhattan Bridge army, who’d march in and smash up their to the borough’s present. ‘Lots of Brooklyn is
seen from Washington
stills, pouring barrels onto the cobblestones. It very much Latin – whether Mexican, Dominican
Street in Brooklyn.
BELOW Leyenda’s Tia
wasn’t until the start of Prohibition in the or Puerto Rican,’ says co-founder Ivy Mix as she
Mia mixes mezcal, rum 1920s, however, that the state called time on gives a cocktail a musical shake. ‘We’re
and orange curaçao Brooklyn’s spirited tradition. Now, inspired by representing and celebrating that part of the
the past, drink-loving entrepreneurs are world’. With her surname, Ivy has always been
bringing liquor-making back to the borough. destined for a life behind the bar. Recently
Heading up this revival is Kings County awarded Best American Bartender at the
Distillery, the first local whiskey producer Spirited Awards (mixology’s Oscars), she cut her
since Prohibition. Its founders began with teeth a decade ago while living in Guatemala.
moonshine, testing their (initially horrible) Leyenda is Latin in both drinks and décor, its
creations on friends; five years on, they’re bar crowded with spirits like Brazilian cachaça
based at the Brooklyn Navy Yard – the grand and mezcal from Oaxaca, arranged in colourful
brick building once housed soldiers tasked Guatemalan cabinets built to hold images of
with rooting out bootleg booze-sellers, but saints. And there’s an almost religious devotion
now whiskey is distilled here using organic to the art of cocktails: votive candles flicker in
New York State corn. It’s stored upstairs in the alcoves and reflect off a tin ceiling embossed
ageing room, where light streams through tall with crosses, while drinkers squeeze into old
windows onto rows of labelled oak barrels. church pews. It’s a far cry from the spit-and-
Next door, a tasting room offers samples of the sawdust bars of ’20s Brooklyn. ‘There’s a new
final products: smoky, spice- level of refinement in food and drink here,’ says
noted bourbon; a cacao-infused mix; and the Ivy as she adds a magenta orchid to a drink the
original moonshine, now much improved. colour of sunset. ‘The bar’s been raised.’
In nearby East Williamsburg, Brooklyn
native Bridget Firtle is championing another Strike east along the coast, following the Long Island
drink. ‘Rum was the country’s first spirit, and Expressway (I-495) for 2–3 hours to reach the dunes
most Americans don’t know that,’ she says, and golden beaches of the Hamptons.
pouring a shot at the Daq Shaq bar inside her
distillery. ‘We drank so much of
it in the colonial era, it became a huge part Essentials
of society, trade and culture.’ The first
American distillery on record – in 1660s
Staten Island – made rum, but the drink
eventually fell out of favour to whiskey.
In 2011, Bridget began renovating an old
furniture factory. ‘I wanted to bring rum
distilling back to my hometown,’ she says.
Now, it’s The Noble Experiment, a distillery-
bar with high timber ceilings and a counter
stacked with ’20s-style bottles of Bridget’s
white rum, Owney’s. Both distillery and rum In Midtown Manhattan, a short metro trip from
pay homage to Prohibition: The Noble Brooklyn, Park South has a rooftop bar
Experiment was the government’s nickname overlooking the Chrysler Building and the city
for it, while Owen ‘Owney’ Madden was a skyline. Elegant, Art Deco-inspired rooms have big
notorious gangster who made a fortune as a windows (from US$225; parksouthhotel.com).
rum-runner and speakeasy magnate, and Join tours including tastings at Kings County
survived being shot 11 times by rivals. ‘He’s Distillery (US$14; kingscountydistillery.com) and
the most badass boss you’ve never heard of,’ The Noble Experiment (US$9, or free with a drink
says Bridget. ‘He really strikes a chord with purchase at Daq Shaq; tnenyc.com). Cocktails at
me.’ Rum, smuggled in from the Caribbean, Leyenda start at US$9.25 (leyendabk.com).
saw a resurgence during Prohibition, and this

52 JANUARY 2017
 N E W YO R K S TAT E

G R E AT E S C A P E

Ivy Mix bartended across Latin

America and at New York’s
prestigious Clover Club before
opening Leyenda, where each
cocktail on the ever-changing
menu is a unique creation

JANUARY 2017 53
N E W YO R K S TAT E Montauk Point
Lighthouse stands at
Long Island’s windy
eastern tip. LEFT
Lobster roll and local
ale at the Clam Bar
near Montauk. FAR
LEFT Alexandra Ali
prepares her boat.

5. The Hamptons
A summer playground for New York’s rich and famous at the tip of Long Island,
the Hamptons still offer glimpses of the area’s turbulent maritime past

‘
E
RE SNUG AND WELL a string of fishing communities that knew pods of dolphins and schools of fish. ‘I love
stowed, like a seaman’s abode, intimately the fruits and the fears of life on how peaceful it is – it’s like you’re the only
lies a village o’ three thousand the Atlantic. Despite lighthouses standing person out here,’ she says. ‘I see the sunset
people,’ begins an anonymous sentinel along the coast, they saw merchant every day, and it’s never the same.’ This
19th-century poem about Sag ships wrecked offshore, lost in storms or fog. evening’s is a sailor’s delight of red, rose and
Harbor, and the lines still ring true today. Today, this dramatic past is mostly just purple, the low sun turning cresting waves
American flags flutter lazily on the town’s hinted at, in gift shops full of nautical stripes into liquid gold. As Alexandra steers back
main street as visitors window-shop in the and whale-shaped souvenirs. Real relics do towards harbour, she gazes to the horizon,
sun and yachts bob gently in the harbour. remain, like the ship-owners’ lavish homes, as bright and beckoning as it might have
A well-to-do to air hangs like heady perfume yet Hamptons visitors today don’t all need looked to the seafarers of centuries past.
over Sag Harbor, as over all the communities a mega-yacht-sized income to take to the
that comprise the Hamptons – the most seas. At Montauk, where imperious seagulls Essentials
upscale of New York seaside getaways. watch over jetties heaped with nets and
The eastern tip of Long Island can feel like lobster pots, Alexandra and Darius Ali take
an I-spy of celebrity mansions, see-and-be- landlubbers out to learn the ropes (literally).
seen bars and boat shoes. Even in less ‘See that powerboat? It’s probably going
ostentatious corners, the atmosphere is one somewhere special. But on a sailboat you’re
of untroubled leisure. At East Hampton’s already there,’ says Alexandra, co-founder
Main Beach, couples amble with their dogs of Sail Montauk, as she guides a little red
along golden, dune-fringed sands, while craft out of the harbour while Beyond the
children fly kites on salty breezes. Nearby, Sea plays from a speaker. Out on the water,
holiday-makers stop by gourmet ice-cream the boat moves smoothly, a gentle wind The eco-friendly Forever Bungalows in Sag
vans and seafood shacks serving lemon- ruffling the flags strung from its rigging. Harbor is a laid-back alternative to the glitz of the
drizzled lobster rolls under bright parasols. Nearby, a cormorant emerges from the water, Hamptons. Colourful rooms have quirky touches
Life in the Hamptons may be laid-back, neck curved like a question mark, before like bathroom tiles made from recycled glass.
but this was once the frontline of maritime darting back down. With easy familiarity, It also provides otherwise-pricey beach parking
America. Early 19th-century Sag Harbor was Alexandra adjusts the tiller and tightens the
permits (from US$150; foreverbungalows.com).
a prosperous whaling port, whose crews mainsail’s ropes, steering a course beside
Sail Montauk offers private trips and lessons
embarked on perilous journeys in search of the beaches of the Hamptons’ north coast.
(trips from US$92pp, minimum two people;
the creatures that could provide them with As easy-going as her playlist, Alexandra
valuable lamp oil. Often at sea for years at May–Sep; sailmontauk.com). Learn more about
worked crewing in the Caribbean, where she
a time, the men faced a dangerous life, from met New Yorker Darius; now they live in an local maritime history at sagharborwhaling
unfurling sails while balanced on a rope 20 old fisherman’s cottage in Montauk for half museum.org and montauklighthouse.com.
metres up, to harpooning whales as heavy the year. ‘Montauk is a great place to learn
as 80 tonnes – a break-neck pursuit over how to sail,’ she says. ‘It has a good wind,
the water, known as a Nantucket sleighride. and all these little crannies where there’s SOPHIE MCGRATH is editorial assistant at
Whaling declined after 1850, but the ocean no development – we see lots of wildlife.’ Lonely Planet Traveller. This trip gave her a
loomed as large as ever in the Hamptons, Though whales are still few, she sees huge new love of canoeing (and Dunkin’ Donuts).

54 JANUARY 2017
 N E W YO R K S TAT E

G R E AT E S C A P E

Voyagers watch the sun

set on a Sail Montauk trip
through waters rich with
historic sights, from an
island gifted by Charles I
to an 18th-century wreck

JANUARY 2017 55
 Strike out across the planet in the coming
year for pink sand beaches, underground
trampoline parks, solar eclipses and much,
much more

Glacial runoff colours the

waters of Peyto Lake an icy
blue, in western Canada’s
Banff National Park

56 JANUARY 2017
 TOP 10 COUNTRIES

1
CANADA
Bolstered by the wave of positivity unleashed by its
energetic new prime minister, Justin Trudeau, and
» DON’T MISS with dynamic cities that dominate global livability
The best way to experience
indexes – plus its reputation for inclusiveness and
Canada’s wilderness is via
its impressive national parks
impeccable politeness – the world’s second-largest
system. (Banff National Park country will usher in its sesquicentennial in 2017
is pictured here.) Admission in rollicking good health. Marking 150 years since
to all 47 parks is free in 2017. confederation, the birthday party promises to be
heavy on bonhomie and highly welcoming to
international gate-crashers. The weak Canadian
dollar means visitors should have plenty of pocket
money to spend on Canada’s exciting fusion food
and mysteriously underrated wine.

JANUARY 2017 57
 2
COLOMBIA
Decades of civil war and violent crime meant Co-
lombian passport stamps were once for hardcore
travellers only. Fast-forward to the present day,
» DON’T MISS and the lost years seem but a dust speck in Colom-
Wander the walled Old Town bia’s rear-view mirror. There are no world wonders
of Cartagena, with its sun- here, but the country’s mix of vibrant culture,
soaked streets, Spanish-built nature and hospitality is a rich tapestry woven
churches and bougainvillea- by welcoming arms. More than a decade into its
draped courtyards. dramatic about-face, this South American jewel is
even expecting a visit from the world’s No. 1 Cath-
olic. When Pope Francis kisses Colombian soil in
2017, it will mark the Andean nation’s first papal
visit in 30 years.

3
» DON’T MISS
The Finnish summer brings
FINLAND
Long fought over by
Russia and Sweden,
Finland finally gained
independence in 1917.
The Finns will celebrate
a bonanza of the world’s
their centenary with
tastiest blueberries, cranber-
gusto: expect everything
ries, wild strawberries and from outdoor concerts
highly prized cloudberries. and communal culinary
experiences to sauna
‘Forward- evenings and vintage
travel poster exhibi-
thinking cities tions. There’s even a
new national park:
and vast 27,000 acres around the
village of Hossa, stud-
unspoilt ded with pine forests

PHOTOGRAPHS: CULTURA/LAURIE CASTELLI/GETTY, SCOTT DUNN/GETTY IMAGES, JUSTIN FOULKES, ANTON

and crisscrossed with
forests and rivers. With the country
also playing host to the
lakeland –

JANKOVOY/GETTY IMAGES, WOLFGANG KAEHLER/LIGHTROCKET/GETTY, SITIKKA/GETTY IMAGES

World Figure Skating
Championships and
Finland the Nordic World Ski
Championships in
Blueberry-picking in Finland. enriches the 2017, there’s never been
a better time to dis-
ABOVE RIGHT The historic
church of San Pedro Claver soul.’ cover Finland’s proudly
unique culture and
in Cartagena, Colombia. Gemma Graham, landscapes.
BELOW RIGHT A beach near Destination Editor,
Portsmouth, Dominica
Northern Europe

DOMINICA

4
» DON’T MISS
Feel the mist from a pound-
Locals joke that if Christopher Columbus rose from
the grave and returned to the Caribbean, Dominica
is the only island he would still recognise. One
glimpse of its prehistoric ferns and deserted shores,
and you’ll see what they mean. For decades, an
ing waterfall on absence of shiny white beaches has helped keep at
a rainforest walk along the bay the resort development that has swept through
115-mile Waitukubuli Trail; other parts of the Caribbean. Coconut palms are the
each of its 14 segments is only skyscrapers you’ll see here. Visit before Domi-
designed to be done in a day. nica gets its first large-scale chain resorts in 2018,
which will pave the way for a new era of tourism.

58 JANUARY 2017
 TOP 10 COUNTRIES

NEPAL

5
» DON'T MISS
View the Himalayas from
Even natural disasters
can’t keep Nepal down
for long. The 2015 earth-
quakes caused devasta-
tion, but what
the rim of the Kath-
is most striking from a
mandu Valley or see the traveller’s perspective is
mountain peaks up close not how much was lost
and personal on treks to but how much remains.
Annapurna, Kanchenjunga Landmark temples crum-
and Everest Base Camp. bled, but others came
through with just the
odd tile out of place, and
whole swathes of the
country escaped serious
damage, including most
of the popular hiking
trails. Nepal has all the
skills required to repair
monuments and infra-
structure, but what it
does need is income. By
visiting Nepal now and
supporting local culture
and people,
you could help a nation Nepal’s Himalayan terrain
rebuild and bounce back makes for exciting roads.
even stronger. BELOW Pink sand between
the rocks at the edge of
Bermuda’s Horseshoe Bay

7
MONGOLIA

6
» DON’T MISS
Bermuda’s pink-sand
BERMUDA
The British territory of Bermuda is often mistaken
for a Caribbean island, and those in the know
might not correct the misunderstanding, in order to
keep the place to themselves a little longer. About
650 miles off the coast of North Carolina, Bermuda
» DON’T MISS
Giant wrestlers,
In 2017 Mongolia will
raise the curtain on a
brand-new capital-city
airport, a state-of-
the-art facility that sym-
beaches – made from a thundering horses and bolises the rapid mod-
mix of crushed coral, calcium is a bit of Britain mixed with island flair. In June, sharp-shooting arches
Bermuda will host the America’s Cup, where the ernisation of this country
carbonate and the shells of make Naadam festivals of steppe nomads. Ul-
United States will defend its title. Temperate cli-
single-celled organisms Mongolia’s most visually aanbaatar has been the
mates and favourable winds make Bermuda the
called foraminifera – are a perfect location for this historic sailing race – and spectacular events. biggest beneficiary of an
huge draw. for your next trip. economic boom – the
capital’s transformed
skyline bristles with
‘History, beaches, water sports – Bermuda wraps glass and steel towers. At
the centre of this devel-
all your holiday dreams into a single package.’ opment is a £380 million
Shangri-La hotel com-
plex, to be completed by
Bailey Johnson, Destination Editor, Central America & Caribbean 2017. Beyond the city
lies Mongolia’s stunning
and sparsely populated
countryside. Lake Khövs-
göl, known as the Blue
Pearl of Asia, is an un-
doubted highlight.
In 2015 the lake
was connected to Ulaan-
baatar by paved road,
cutting driving time by
10 hours.

JANUARY 2017 59
 The mid-17th-century
Nizwa Fort stands at
the heart of the city
of the same name in
Oman’s interior

8
OMAN
Oman has been Arabia’s ace in the hole for a
while, but with more flights than ever before and
high-end hotels popping up, the sultanate looks
» DON’T MISS
ready to raise its game again. Luxury accommo-
The rarely visited dation, including the award-winning duo of Six
Musandam Peninsula is Senses on the remote Musandam Peninsula and
called the ‘Norway of Alila in Nizwa, has long had a foothold in Oman.
Oman’ thanks to its khors Now, glitzy properties from Anantara, Kempinski
(fjord-like inlets) that and other luxury names are slated to open soon.
teem with marine life. The burst of construction doesn’t stop there,
though: the £100 million Majarat Oman, a futur-
istic indoor theme park to the west of the capital
Muscat, is scheduled to open in 2017.

60 JANUARY 2017
 TOP 10 COUNTRIES

9
MYANMAR A worshipper by a church
in Lalibela, Ethiopia.
Change has been a long BELOW LEFT Temples eight
time coming in the or more centuries old are
nation also known as dotted across Bagan –
» DON’T MISS an old capital
The ancient city of Bagan Burma, but the election
of Myanmar
was a contemporary to of the first civilian
Cambodia’s Angkor – come government in half a
here to see temples poking century has all eyes on
out from the plains in every the future. No-one is
direction you look. pretending that all of
Myanmar’s problems
‘What curious have gone away, but
things are moving in
traveller isn’t the right direction, and
Southeast Asia’s most
tempted by the secretive country is now
poised to receive an
chance to influx of travellers.
explore newly Visiting comes with
challenges, but the
opened areas reward is a window
onto a vanishing Asia,
where few where the difficulties
tourists have of travel are part of the
appeal. You’ll find a
been?’ land with more stupas
than office towers,
Laura Crawford, where life moves to
Destination Editor, the timeless rhythms
Japan, Vietnam, Cambodia, of chanting monks
Laos, Myanmar & and monastery bells.
the Philippines
PHOTOGRAPHS: JUSTIN FOULKES, PHILIP LEE HARVEY, ANDREW MONTGOMERY

10 » DON’T MISS
Enjoy a multi-day hike
ETHIOPIA
With its own calendar (where else can you get
13 months of sunshine?), timekeeping, script, lan-
guage, cuisine, church and coffee, Ethiopia is
as exotic as countries come. And whether you’re
hiking through the Simien Mountains to see wild-
through the heights of
life that roams nowhere else on Earth, climbing to
Ethiopia's Simien Mountains a church carved into a remote cliff face in Tigray,
National Park, where you’ll or boating across the waters of Lake Tana to visit
walk amid hundred-strong an age-old monastery, you’ll be overwhelmed by
troops of baboon-size grass- the beauty of the landscape. In 2017, new airline
eating gelada monkeys. links will make the country more accessible than
ever; be one of the first to get on board.

JANUARY 2017 61
TOP 10 REGIONS

1
CHOQUEQUIRAO, PERU TARANAKI,

» DON’T MISS
Unique to Choquequirao
are the stone llama blanca
Choquequirao, hidden across the deep Apurimac
Valley, was the last Inca refuge from the Spanish
conquistadors. There’s a growing traveller buzz
to see it. A cable car will whir into life in 2017
(or possibly later; bureaucratic feet are dragging),
2
» DON’T MISS
The Pouakai Crossing
NEW ZEALAND
The joke goes that most
travellers who reach
Taranaki have just
gliding as many as 3,000 visitors a day to the ruins is a day hike sidling taken a wrong turn, a
(white llama) figures. The in just 15 minutes. Visit in the early days, or take
designs are inlaid into the around Mount gag backed by statistics
the four-day trek in Inca footsteps, and have a showing that just
lower terraces, forming a taste of how Machu Picchu was before the crowds. Taranaki volcano,
pattern of animals across You’ll encounter only a couple of visitors – plus with panoramic two per cent of New
the slopes. the archaeologists who continue to peel back the views. Zealand’s international
jungle, which still cloaks two-thirds of the spec- visitors venture out this
tacular site. way. But a new motto –
‘A Little Bit Out There’
– offsets the region’s
remote location in the
southwest corner of
the North Island with a
deliciously offbeat new
gallery dedicated to ef-
fervescent kinetic artist,
filmmaker, painter and
poet Len Lye. In nearby
Egmont National Park,
meanwhile, a fantastic
hiking trail is emerging
from the shadows to
Llamas are a mainstay of challenge the famous
rural life in Peru and other Tongariro Alpine Cross-
Andean countries. ing as the country’s
BELOW RIGHT At 2,351m,
finest one-day walk.
Montanha do Pico is the
highest point in the Azores

THE AZORES,

3
» DON’T MISS
Paddle Sete Ciades, São
PORTUGAL
Blending volcanic
green landscapes and
cool Iberian culture,
the nine islands of
Miguel’s twin crater lakes; the Azores offer easy
one is a deep blue, the other access from North
a brilliant turquoise. America and Europe
without the abundance
‘For spectacular of travellers who have

PHOTOGRAPHS: ENRICO VILLA/500PX, VOLANTHEVIST/GETTY

discovered Iceland as
landscapes and a cross-the-pond pit
stop. The archipelago’s
chances natural assets resemble
an array of superla-
to experience tive sights pulled from
adventure other destinations:
Hawaiian volcanoes,
without the medieval Portuguese
villages, gurgling Scan-
crowds, there dinavian hot springs,
towering Irish cliffs
are few better and rugged Patagonian
places to go.’ craters. But the secret
won’t last: the Azores
saw a 31 percent in-
Tom Stainer, crease in tourism over
Destination Editor, the past year, so visit
Iberian Peninsula & Turkey before things take off.

62 JANUARY 2017
 NORTH WALES, UNITED KINGDOM

4
» DON’T MISS
Blaenau Ffestiniog’s
On the site of an aluminium factory in the Conwy
Valley, Surf Snowdonia wave pool, featuring the
longest man-made waves, is the most headline-
stealing example of the region’s current reinvention.
Llechwedd Slate Caverns Meanwhile, Zip World at Penrhyn Quarry has the
has a new deep-mine tour world’s fastest zip line, and Bounce Below offers
into the Stygian depths of giant trampolines in the caverns beneath the old
the Snowdonia region. The
slate-mining town of Blaenau Ffestiniog. Capping Trampolining below
caverns are North Wales’s
most popular attraction.
things off, Snowdonia National Park has been named ground at Snowdonia’s
a ‘dark-sky reserve’ – telescopes out, people. Bounce Below

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

5
» DON’T MISS
Visit at least a couple of the 13
Its climate may be hot, but South Australia offers
the coolest mix of world-class wine country, abun-
dant produce festivals, stark and stunning tracts
of picturesque outback, and crowd-free beaches
that could be the envy of the Caribbean. The
distinct wine-growing regions Queen Mary 2 transatlantic ocean liner is putting
that help make South Australia South Australia on her travel list in 2017, choos-
responsible for nearly half of the ing to dock not only in the state’s artistic capital,
continent’s total wine output. Adelaide, but also taking in the rustic charms of
Kangaroo Island.

AYSÉN, CHILE

6
Caves along General
Carrera Lake, in southern
Chile’s Aysén region. There’s only one road into the Aysén region of
PHOTOGRAPHS: CHERYL CHAN, PHILIP LEE
HARVEY, KHOROSHKOV/GETTY, ALBERTO

ABOVE Cliffs near Elliston Chilean Patagonia. If you follow its unpaved
in South Australia contours from start to finish, you’ll experience a
» DON’T MISS kaleidoscopic journey where foggy fjords give way
The Calluqueo and San Ra-
to brooding rainforests, bone-dry grasslands and
fael Glaciers are more
accessible than ever thanks
powder-blue lagoons. Shaped by the forces of the
Patagonian Ice Field, Aysén is an extreme landscape
LOYO/GETTY IMAGES

to newly developed tour

routes. Visit these cities of in constant flux. But with fresh routes to glaciers,
blue ice before it’s too late. a booming craft-beer scene in remote hamlets, and
the massive new Parque Patagonia nature reserve,
green-lit for national park status, Patagonia’s last
frontier has never been such a delight to explore.

JANUARY 2017 63
TOP 10 REGIONS

THE TUAMOTUS,

7
» DON’T MISS
Tumakohua Pass, off Fakara-
FRENCH POLYNESIA
Close your eyes, and imagine this: you land on a
strip of coral, surrounding a glinting lagoon of every
hue of blue from lapis lazuli to turquoise – a perfect
ring of islets edged with sandbars and breeze-ruffled
va atoll, has a fabulous array coconut trees. Remember that tropical paradise that
of fish life –especially its appears in countless advertisements? Here’s the
concentration of grey sharks real thing. As if that weren’t enough, the Tuamotu
at incoming tide. Go nose to islands rank among the world’s best scuba diving
nose with them on a dive. destinations, and that reputation has never been so
justified: the number of dive areas is growing, and
Master Liveaboards is launching a new dive boat for
the archipelago in 2017.

8
COASTAL
‘Divers adore the Tuamotus’ underwater GEORGIA,
UNITED STATES
PHQDJHULHRIGDUWLQJoVKVKDUNVDQGUD\V
» DON’T MISS You’ve probably heard
Lauren Keith, Multi-region Destination Editor Cumberland Island is a of Savannah – that
slice of unspoiled paradise, Southern belle with a
with a mix of beaches, for- stellar restaurant scene
Burps & Giggles in the ests, marshes, mudflats and and gorgeous 19th-cen-
Malaysian city of Ipoh. ABOVE tidal creeks. Stay the night tury mansions framed
RIGHT Cockspur Island Light, if you can (the Greyfield Inn by oaks dripping with
north of Georgia’s Tybee Island is a great option – also the Spanish moss. But
only one). most visitors never
know what lies just
beyond: a coastline
with quirky towns,
historic treasures and
wilderness-covered
islands. Hollywood
has taken notice and
started filming major
movies here, including
the Baywatch reboot,
due out in spring. If
you’re seeking a coastal
getaway of uncommon
beauty without the
crowds, go now.

THE SKELLIG

10 » DON’T MISS
Nothing beats landing on
RING, IRELAND
A long time ago, far, far
away… a small band
of monks established
a hidden base on a
Skellig Michael, the larger remote, wave-pounded
of the two Skellig Islands, hunk of rock rising out
of the Atlantic like a

9
and climbing the 600
PERAK, MALAYSIA treacherously steep stone giant triangle. With
steps to reach the chambers a setting like this, it’s
Perak’s capital, Ipoh, is nurturing a bloom of no wonder the island,
vintage-style cafés and boutiques. The nucleus of left by the monks.
Skellig Michael, made
» DON’T MISS this old-meets-new makeover is Kong Heng Block, the new Star Wars loca-
Ipoh’s signature dish surrounding the imaginative Sekeping Kong Heng tion list. To get to this
ayam tague (chicken
hotel. Here, cheerful joints like Roquette Café, Burps far-flung isle, you’ll
& Giggles and Bits & Bobs pull a vibrant crowd to have to take a boat trip
and bean sprouts) reigns
shop, dawdle and slurp ais kepal (ice balls) in this from the Skellig Ring
supreme here. Locals historic neighbourhood. Meanwhile, guesthouse
love Restaurant Lou in the west of County
owners and tour guides on Pangkor Island are Kerry, perhaps Ire-
Wong for its version. starting to lead sustainable nature walks and village land’s most charismati-
tours. In this sunbather’s paradise, an emerging cally wild and emerald
focus on wildlife is a breath of fresh, sea air. stretch of coastline.

64 JANUARY 2017
 TOP 10 CITIES

BORDEAUX, FRANCE

1
CAPE TOWN,

» DON’T MISS
The Gironde riverfront is
They used to call her the ‘Sleeping Beauty,’ but
– though she’s hit the snooze button a few times –
Bordeaux is now wide awake and ready for action.
The new LGV Sud-Ouest high-speed railway line,
due for completion in mid-2017, connects the
2
» DON’T MISS
To reach Table Mountain’s
SOUTH AFRICA
Cape Town’s
deceptively laid-
back folk have been
working hard to add
Bordeaux’s new focal point. city with Europe’s high-speed train network and 1,000-metre-high plateau, cultural and culinary
At its epicentre is the Miroir cuts travel time from Paris to just two hours. Its you can ride the revolving cred to the Mother
d’Eau, a vast reflecting pool; timing is perfect. The recently opened Cité du Vin cable car or hike up one of City’s famous natural
in summer, its picturesque, continues the impressive redevelopment of the the many rewarding trails charms, cementing
cooling mist is a magnet for Garonne riverfront with a state-of-the-art wine- such as Skeleton Gorge. its reputation as an
Bordeaux’s citizens. themed experience, and the city’s gastronomic African city with
revolution keeps building on its own success. a global outlook. Local
‘At I Love My gastronomy is as
impressive as the flat-
Bordeaux’s Pont de Laundry, one topped mass of Table
Mountain, with historic
of many hybrid
Pierre opened in 1822.
BELOW RIGHT Cape
wine estates in every
direction, markets
businesses in
Town’s Victoria and
selling the fruits of
Alfred Waterfront the Cape’s fertile
Cape Town, terrain, and inventive
restaurants winning
you can sip global plaudits. The art
and design scene will
wine, eat be given a boost in
September 2017 by
Korean the opening of the
Zeitz Museum of
dumplings and Contemporary Art
Africa, the world’s
shop for art – largest museum of
contemporary African
all during one art and a post-industrial
architectural triumph
spin cycle.’ occupying a century-
old grain silo.
Matt Phillips,
Destination Editor,
Sub-Saharan Africa

3
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA
PHOTOGRAPHS: JUSTIN FOULKES, RICHARD

Despite its reputation as a land of celebrities, health

fanatics and all-round superficiality, LA has been
» DON’T MISS gaining steam as a cultural destination, and it’s more
Save a day for the beaches. accessible than ever. The 2016 Metro expansion has
Whether you head to Venice made getting from Downtown to Santa Monica and
to see street performers or everywhere in between much easier; city initiative
TAYLOR/4CORNERS

to Santa Monica pier, you’ll

Car Free L.A. helps tourists navigate without
see why the West Coast has
become such a big draw.
wheels; and almost 50 new hotels are in the works.
This isn’t just a beach town, either; it’s also a
commerce capital, where movie producers
mingle over sashimi and kale salads.

JANUARY 2017 65
 4
MÉRIDA, MEXICO
Mérida’s cultural offering is like no other on the
Yucatán Peninsula (sorry, Cancún, you’ve got pretty
» DON’T MISS beaches, but party culture doesn’t count). On any
The secret to visiting the given day you’ll find a dizzying array of live music,
popular Maya site of Chichén art shows and dance performances, and the booming
Itzá, featuring astounding culinary scene is hotter than a habanero pepper.
pre–Hispanic structures
Mérida has been designated the American Capital
75 miles east of Mérida,
is getting there around 8am,
of Culture, meaning visitors can expect a colossal
cultural extravaganza as organisers stage a series of OHRID,

5
before the crowds arrive.
large-scale events throughout 2017. And here’s the MACEDONIA
kicker: the beautiful town ranks among the safest
places in Mexico nowadays. Overlooking the
» DON’T MISS extraordinarily blue
Crossing the over-water waters of its eponymous
walkway past Lake Ohrid’s lake, Ohrid enjoys a
cliffs takes you from the old stunning position that is
town to the small sandy cove best viewed from a boat.
of Kaneo, perhaps Ohrid’s From the water you’ll see
most idyllic place. the town’s terracotta roofs
broken up by centuries-
old church spires (the city
‘A sense of claims to have once had
spirituality 365) and overlooked by
the turreted walls of Czar
permeates Samuel’s castle. Ohrid
has transformed itself
both the from Macedonia’s
religious centre into a
historic popular holiday focus,
quarter and and its beaches are
the best by far in this
the sublime otherwise landlocked
nation. However, a
lake.’ planned new lakeshore
Brana Vladisavljevic, development will likely
Destination Editor, change this sleepy town
Southeastern & forever, making now
Eastern Europe a great time to go.

7
SEOUL, SOUTH
Fiesta time in Mérida.
KOREA
ABOVE RIGHT The Korean capital is
The church of St John striving to become a

PHOTOGRAPHS: CELIA HUECK/GETTY, AYHAN SÜLEYMAN/500PX

at Kaneo overlooks » DON’T MISS more attractive and
Lake Ohrid Join a tour at user-friendly metropolis.
Seoul’s former royal Following successful
Changdeokgung projects such as the
Palace for access to Cheonggyecheon, where

6 PISTOIA, ITALY an ageing and unsightly

the ‘secret garden’
of Huwon. elevated highway was
Pistoia is sometimes referred to as ‘little Florence’ replaced with a park and
for its concentration of art and architecture. But waterway, the city will
» DON’T MISS despite its charms, this Tuscan town sees just a unveil in late 2017 the
The beating heart of Pistoia fraction of Florence’s tourists. That’s set to change Seoul Skygarden. This
is Piazza della Sala, a market in 2017, when the city will take its turn as Italy’s time, the old highway in
square since medieval times.
Capital of Culture. Pistoia earned the title in rec- question – a 938-metre-
ognition of its impressive cultural credentials and long, 17-metre-tall
Come evening, the piazza
devotion to grassroots ideas and local entrepre- overpass – will become
transforms into an neurship. The award offers the city a chance to the platform on which
outdoor lounge bar. showcase an alternative to Tuscany: one that es- trees, shrubs and flowers
chews grand-slam sights in favour of small towns will be planted to create
full of personality and dynamic, living culture. an arboretum of local
species.

66 JANUARY 2017
 TOP 10 CITIES

9
» DON’T MISS
Moscow’s revamped green
MOSCOW, RUSSIA
Russia may not have revealed all its plans for the
centennial of the 1917 revolutions, but it’s clear that
there will be radical changes in Moscow. The city
will host football matches in the 2017 Confedera-
tions Cup and the 2018 FIFA World Cup, so the
spaces, Gorky Park and
Hermitage Gardens, are now race is on to bring an inkling of the ultra-modern to
centres of urban life, with art a metropolis renowned for bombastic architecture.
exhibitions, music festivals, The upgraded Zhukovsky airport and a new metro
street food, dance classes
line will mean an all-time high in connectivity, and
Moscow will gain a blockbuster attraction in the
and public bike paths.
Polytechnic Museum and Educational Centre, a sci-
ence museum being relocated to a striking building
in the Vorobyovy Gory hills.

‘Vast and venerable, Moscow is a city as layered

as a Russian doll.’
Oliver Smith, Senior Features Writer

A distant Mount Hood

towers over Portland.
LEFT Sweet-toothed
Lisboetas flock to the
Confeitaria Nacional

LISBON,

8
» DON’T MISS
The Miradouro de Santa
PORTUGAL
It has sights, culture
and cuisine, yet Lisbon
is rarely mentioned
alongside southern Eu-
Catarina (a viewpoint in ropean heavyweights
boho Santa Catarina) offers such as Barcelona and
fantastic views of Lisbon. Rome. If this mystify-
Reach it via the Elevador da ing lack of recognition
Bica funicular. is what helps the Por-
tuguese capital remain
a bargain, long may it
continue. If you need
more persuasion, con-
sider the museums:
from Egyptian artefacts
at Calouste Gulbenkian
Museum to pop art
PHOTOGRAPHS: PATRICK CAMPBELL/500PX, MATT MUNRO

at Berardo Collection
Museum, Lisbon has

10
plenty, and one devot- PORTLAND, OREGON
ed to Portugal’s Jewish
history is coming to Portland is America’s city of the future: a friendly,
the Alfama district in sustainable and ethical place that values good living
2017. » DON’T MISS and leisure over acquisitiveness and ambition.
Portland is a city of Bisected by the Willamette River and surrounded
gardens, most famously by peaks, it is also a preternaturally attractive place.
the International Rose Test What better spot could there be for viewing one of
For more on the hottest destinations, Garden, which will celebrate nature’s great spectacles: the total solar eclipse on
trends and travel experiences, including its centennial in 2017.
21 August 2017. Although the eclipse will be partial
further themed lists, see Lonely Planet’s
Best in Travel 2017 book (US$14.99) and in Portland, if you drive a few miles south into the
lonelyplanet.com/best-in-travel. Willamette Valley or hike up Mount Hood, 50 miles
to the east, you’ll be cast in the moon’s deep umbra
between 9.06am and 11.38am.

JANUARY 2017 67
T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R ’ S S TO RY

68 JANUARY 2017
 T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R ’ S S TO RY

The Photographer’s Story

TO M M A C K I E

Iceland
in winter
I’ve been going to Iceland for the past five years. I usually spend a
week or two there in February, shooting and leading photography
workshops. In winter, the sun stays low toward the horizon and
gives a beautiful light. Every time I go, I see something completely
different, because the weather is so changeable, and the landscapes
so unpredictable. In Iceland, the Earth is continually evolving,
regenerating new land mass all the time – it’s unique. Outside
Reykjavík, you enter a very rugged, desolate landscape, and what
strikes me most is the lack of background noise – you can hear the
birds flying overhead, the seals barking in the distance at a glacial
lagoon. It’s as if sound comes alive. It can be challenging shooting
here because you have to fight the elements – wind, rain, sea spray
– but you can get some amazing images. It’s one of the most
dramatic landscapes I’ve experienced, and one of the harshest
as well. They go hand in hand, and that’s the beauty of Iceland.

TOM MACKIE is an American landscape photographer based in the UK. For more
of his photography, and details of his workshops, visit tommackie.com.

JANUARY 2017 69
T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R ’ S S TO RY

70 JANUARY 2017
T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R ’ S S TO RY
This shot, which seems to show a
face in the northern lights, was a
pure fluke. I took it in a field in the
village of Hali, just after dinner – for
the northern lights to come so early
in the evening, and at the base of
mountains, was really unusual. When
this image came up on my camera,
I couldn’t believe that I was seeing
a face; by the time I looked back up
at the sky, it had gone.

JANUARY 2017 71
T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R ’ S S TO RY

72 JANUARY 2017
 T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R ’ S S TO RY
Here you can see Gulfoss, a huge
series of waterfalls that cascade down
into a gorge. It’s one of the biggest
attractions in Iceland. To capture
this shot I ventured to the upper end
where there are tiny cascades, with ice
grippers on my shoes as there was ice
everywhere. When the water splashes
it can freeze into unusal shapes –
I liked the contrast between them and
the flowing water.

MAKE IT HAPPEN
Iceland remains mostly accessible (and is much cheaper) in the winter.
Temperatures can be surprisingly mild, though the weather is unpredictable,
and you should travel in late winter if you want more than a few hours’ daylight.
Most of Iceland’s popular destinations are accessible year-round, including those
featured here (Gullfoss is on the Golden Circle, while Vatnajökull and Hali, in
southeast Iceland, are on the Ring Road); major roads remain open, though many
interior routes require a 4x4. Tom Mackie’s week-long photography workshop
visits places on the Ring Road – book far ahead as spots go quickly (tommackie.
com – alternative destinations to Iceland are also offered). Icelandair’s six-day
‘Hidden Powers & Northern Lights Hunt’ package includes the Golden Circle,
Vatnajökull and Reykjavík’s Blue Lagoon (from US$915 including flights;
icelandair.co.uk). To get to Iceland, fly British Airways from Singapore or Kuala
Lumpur to London Heathrow and then take Icelandair to Rejkjavik (from
US$1,331; ba.com) .

JANUARY 2017 73
E X T R A O R D I N A RY P L A C E S T O S TAY

Extraordinary
places to stay WORDS JOSMIN ONG

74 JANUARY 2017
 The world’s best hotel bars factor in numerous elements, and it usually includes
something bespoke for every traveller. These include swanky accommodation types, a
distinctive façade and interior décor of the hotel and hotel bar, and most importantly -
sensational signature cocktails that will leave patrons coming back for more. While
overindulging is often a sin, a little tipple once in awhile is perfect for unwinding and
releasing stress. From incredible interior designs to glamorous and stylish settings, here is
our roundup of the world’s best hotel bars. Cheers to a new year!

JANUARY 2017 75
E X T R A O R D I N A RY P L A C E S T O S TAY
world-class cocktails, there are also Michelin- include Rock My World and Taragon Margarita
1. THE CONNAUGHT starred cuisines available within the (from The Rock Stars collection) and Rokatonic
London, United Kingdom establishment. If that is not enough, book (Rock, Gin & Tonic collection). Perched atop a
yourself a pampering spa treatment at lush Aman distinguishing rock formation along Jimbaran
YOU OUGHT TO TRY THIS DRINK: Martinis Spa before residing within your classic elegant coast, Rock Bar Bali is world renowned for its
were first invented in 1850s and have become a and contemporary room of choice. All beds are unparalleled location showcasing the panoramic
legend in alcoholic beverages. Today, to elevate dressed in luxurious Italian linen with cashmere view of the Indian Ocean. As the sun sets and the
the experience of a perfect martini, The throws guaranteeing a good night’s rest. seductive night crawls in, premier international
Connaught Martini Trolley has been voted the DJs will heighten the experience from the custom
world’s best martini experience with its quietly RATE: US$450++ per night DJ booth carved directly into the cliff face.
stirred concoction with extract choices of the-connaught.co.uk
lavender, coriander, cardamom, ginger, WHAT ARE THE ADDITIONAL DRAWS? Smart
grapefruit, vanilla and liquorice. This ceremonial attire is compulsory to enter the venue, so you
2. AYANA RESORT

PHOTOGRAPHS: THE CONNAUGHT, AYANA RESORT

element was created in reminiscence of the know you’ll be sitting with beautifully dressed
historical English hotel. Other exclusives include AND SPA travellers alongside the scenic viewpoint. Bali is
a handpicked selection of the world’s elite also famed for its beaches and tropical climate,
vintages, champagnes, wines, spirits and Bali, Indonesia and keeping cool is as important with the
liqueurs. Champagne connoisseurs may also constant summer heat. At Ayana, you can choose
pick from 10 options that reflect the YOU OUGHT TO TRY THIS DRINK: Spa on the from 11 swimming pools and a ton of other
individuality and subtlety of the hotel such as Rock, one of Rock Bar’s hot favourites made up of facilities, activities and services for your personal
the Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut. vodka, blackcurrant liqueur, blueberry, cranberry pleasure.
WHAT ARE THE ADDITIONAL DRAWS? juice and brown sugar. This cocktail complements
English Cubist and Irish 1920s art inspired the the colours of the exquisite setting sunset coast RATE: US$245++ per night
design of the intimate 54-seater bar. Apart from of Jimbaran. Other popular drinks of choice ayana.com/en/bali/ayana-resort-and-spa

76 JANUARY 2017
1

JANUARY 2017 77
E X T R A O R D I N A RY P L A C E S T O S TAY

3. CHATEAU simplistic yet flavourful share plates, Bar 4. THE

Marmont aims to heighten the gastronomic
MARMONT HOTEL RITZ-CARLTON

PHOTOGRAPHS: CHATEAU MARMONT, THE RITZ CARLTON, THE CLUB

dining experience for every visitor.
Los Angeles, United States of Moscow, Russia
WHAT ARE THE ADDITIONAL DRAWS?
America Modelled after a French royal residence in Loire YOU OUGHT TO TRY THIS DRINK: For an
YOU OUGHT TO TRY THIS DRINK: A classic Valley, the castle is a hotel and residential choice immersive Russian experience, try the Moscow
Sunset Sour will complete the old Hollywood for any travellers seeking a fine cocktail or a lust Mule, made of Grey Goose vodka, ginger, lime
vibe as you retreat to the opulent Bar Marmont. worthy encounter. Each of the 63 rooms, juice and sugar or the Red Square, a blend of
The Chateau Marmont is closely associated with cottages and bungalows is a home in its own cîroc vodka, raspberries, rosemary, lemon juice
glamour as plenty of celebrities have flocked in right and majority of it provides full kitchen, and sugar – perfect for the sweet toothed.
for decades, including Bob Dylan, Elizabeth sitting areas, living rooms, formal dining halls, Award-winning O2 Lounge is a landmark
Taylor, Lindsay Lohan, Mick Jagger and Kristen balconies and private terraces – perfect for rooftop restaurant and bar sitting proud and
Stewart just to name a few. The cocktail menu is hosting that impromptu boisterous party with well The Ritz-Carlton Moscow, following a
built on vodka, rum, whiskey, tequila and gin for its soundproof walls. spectacular refurbishment in 2015. With
an extensive list of quirky creations to match unrivalled views over Red Square and the
every discerning drinker. With a focus on a RATE: US$450++ per night Kremlin, delectable delights such as gourmet
balanced palate, fresh local produce and tchateaumarmont.com Peruvian cuisine and the finest caviar paired with

78 JANUARY 2017
sophisticated house-mixed cocktails, there is club you can find in town (don’t worry, there are
nothing quite as spectacular as this. As with all 5. THE CLUB plenty of women patrons too).
things grandeur, there is a price to pay. Telok Ayer, Singapore
WHAT ARE THE ADDITIONAL DRAWS? The
WHAT ARE THE ADDITIONAL DRAWS? YOU OUGHT TO TRY THIS DRINK: It is quite Club is an affordable luxury boutique hotel
Situated right within the heart of Moscow city hard to put a finger to a particular drink in B28 as housed in Singapore’s popular F&B spot – Ann
centre on Tverskaya Street, The Ritz-Carlton it offers over 200 Scottish single malts and 30 Siang Hill. Expect to find masses of cafes, bars and
Moscow is a lavishly appointed base for visitors rums from all over the region. If the shelves of restaurants tucked within this happening area. But
looking to explore the city’s abundant rare single malt whiskies do not entice you, then if you wish to stay indoors, the noteworthy
architectural, historical and cultural wonders. maybe the wide variety of cocktails from the establishment is F&B-focused and provides the
Alternatively, for travellers who wish to stay prohibition era made with premium ingredients option of three restaurants along its 20 luxurious
indoors, Ritz Kids will delight and engage will. Ask a local where one of the best speakeasy rooms in the 1900’s heritage building. The
children to interact with their surroundings in a bars in Singapore is and you will probably get Disgruntled Brasserie is our personal favourite
fresh and exciting way while the adults this place on the list. With a sophisticated with modern European cuisines of Baked Miso Cod
rejuvenate within its classy spa retreat. lounge filled with leather armchairs, original jazz and Foie Gras Beef Burger.
artworks hung off the wall and mahogany
RATE: US$380++ per night lockers exclusively for members to store their RATE: US$415++ per night
ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/Europe/Moscow spirits – this is pretty much the best gentlemen’s theclub.com.sg

JANUARY 2017 79
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Terms & Conditions. name, ID number, contact number and address.
This promotion is open to all except staff of Regent Media and sponsor.
Prizes must be taken as provided and are not transferable or exchangeable for cash. Competition closes 31 Jan 2017 at 11.59pm. Terms
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Entry information may be used for future marketing and promotional purposes.

82 JANUARY 2017
 Fold 2
Northumberland’s
windswept Embleton Bay,
backed by sand dunes

Castles
ALNWICK CASTLE
The imposing ancestral home of
the Duke of Northumberland has
changed little since the 14th
century, making it a favourite with
filmmakers (it starred as
Hogwarts in the Harry Potter
films). The interior is extravagant,
with a vast display of Italian
paintings. The castle is set in
parklands designed by Lancelot The impressive vaulted ceiling of
‘Capability’ Brown. (alnwickcastle. King’s Hall at Bamburgh Castle
com; closed Nov–24 Mar; US$18).

BAMBURGH CASTLE WARKWORTH CASTLE

MINI GUIDE This dramatic castle was built
around an 11th-century Norman
Although today little more than
a ruin, in its 14th-century heyday
keep, and later played a key role in Warkworth Castle was a seat of

Scenic
the border wars of the 13th and great power as home of the Percy
14th centuries. It was restored in family. The castle, which lords
the 19th century by Lord over a cluster of houses around a

Northumberland
Armstrong and is still home to the loop in the River Coquet, features
Armstrong family. Top billing goes in Shakespeare’s Henry IV, and the
to the neo-Gothic King’s Hall with film Elizabeth was shot here. Just
Starkly beautiful, this is the wild heart of leaded windows and hefty beams upriver, Warkworth Hermitage is
(bamburghcastle.com; 10am–5pm carved into the rock (www.
Northeast England, where desolate beaches daily mid-Feb–Nov, 11am–4pm Sat english-heritage.org.uk; castle
& Sun Dec–mid-Feb; US$14). 10am–4pm Sat & Sun; US$7).
frame a landscape dotted with dramatic
fortress ruins and a brooding national park.

Coast Inland Fold 1

EMBLETON BAY HADRIAN’S WALL
A wide arc of sand, Embleton This mammoth structure, built
Bay stretches from Dunstanburgh around 122–128 AD to separate
past the endearing village of the Romans from Scottish Pict
Embleton and curves in a broad tribesmen, cut a swathe across
vanilla-hued strand around to northern England for 73 miles
Low Newton-by-the-Sea, a from the Irish Sea to the North
whitewashed, National Sea, and would have included
Trust-preserved village. Secreted 16 forts, 80 milecastles and 160
behind the bay is Newton Pool turrets. Haltwhistle, Hexham and
Nature Reserve, an important Corbridge make good bases for Early morning mist and dew on
spot for breeding and migrating The Farne Islands are home to a visiting the Unesco-listed ruins a stretch of Hadrian’s Wall
birds such as black-headed gulls large colony of Atlantic grey seals (visithadrianswall.co.uk).
and grasshopper warblers.
KIELDER WATER AND NORTHUMBERLAND
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines

FARNE ISLANDS THE HOLY ISLAND FOREST PARK NATIONAL PARK

This rocky archipelago is an OF LINDISFARNE Kielder Water is Europe’s largest Although the park encompasses
important seabird sanctuary; There’s something almost artificial lake and surrounding its 405 square miles of natural
during breeding season (May to other-worldly about this tiny, 27-mile-long shoreline is wonderland, it is the country’s
July) you can see feeding chicks, two-mile-square island. England’s biggest forest, with least populated national park.
including puffins, kittiwakes, Connected to the mainland by 150 million spruce and pine The finest sections of Hadrian’s
Arctic terns, and cormorants, as a narrow causeway that only trees. The park is great for kids, Wall are on the park’s southern
well as some 6,000 grey seals. appears at low tide, it’s fiercely with climbing walls and zip edge and the landscape is
Dolphins and whales are also desolate and isolated. As you wires, cycle trails for all abilities dotted with prehistoric remains
sometimes seen in the waters. A cross the empty flats it’s easy to and dozens of forest walking and fortified houses – the peles
medieval chapel on Inner Farne imagine the marauding Vikings trails from which explorers (towers) were the only solid
commemorates St Cuthbert, a who repeatedly sacked the might spot badgers, roe deer, buildings built here until the
Christian missionary of the 7th settlement of Lindisfarne otters, shrews, red squirrels and 1700s (northumberland
century (nationaltrust.org.uk). between AD 793 and 875, after birds of prey (visitkielder.com). nationalpark.org.uk).
Local boat tours run to the which the monks who resided
islands (from US$20; farne- here took the hint and left
islands.com). (holy-island.info). TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS

JANUARY 2017 83
MINI GUIDE
Scenic Northumberland
Beaches Activities Sights Sleeping

Essentials The know-how

COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM CATHERINE LE NEVEZ. PHOTOGRAPHS: LEE & JIMMY
FISHER/EYE EM/GETTY, JUSTIN FOULKES, PARKERPHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY, RADIUS/SUPERSTOCK, WASHINGTON
TRANSPORT LOCAL SNACKS FOR
Newcastle is the gateway city THE TRAIL FURTHER READING
for Northumberland. KLM flies Northumberland’s countryside can Lonely
from both Singapore and Kuala be isolated, so it’s worth stocking Planet’s Great
Lumpur with a stop in up on picnic supplies. Britain
Amsterdam (from US$825; klm. OCorbridge Larder, close to (US$29.99)
com). Virgin Trains East Coast Hadrian’s Wall, sells gourmet
runs rail services from London covers
picnic items, including bread,
King’s Cross to Scotland via Newcastle
The sumptuous Bill Baggs Cape cheeses, chutneys, cakes and wine
Newcastle, Morpeth, Alnmouth (you can get hampers) as well as and the
room at The Joiners Arms
and Berwick (from US$21; made-to-order sandwiches, pies Northeast and the chapter
virgintrainseastcoast.com). Public and quiches (corbridgelarder.co. can be downloaded at
transport around the region can crown.co.uk; from US$85). uk; 18 Hill St; sandwiches from lonelyplanet.com (US$4.95).
be patchy, especially in remoter The characterful, individually
US$5). Northumberland-walks.co.uk
regions – see travelinenortheast. styled rooms at Otterburn
OOpposite Hexham’s abbey, a gives practical info on trails
info. Northern Rail operates local Castle are everything you’d
train services from Newcastle expect from a plush country colourful window display of breads, and absorbing photographic
heading west to Corbridge house hotel. The fortified building cheeses, olives, pâtés and cakes diaries. Glimpse the world of
(US$8) and north to Alnmouth hugs the edge of Northumberland entice you in to Deli at Number 4. 8th-century monks from the
(US$13; northernrail.org). National Park (otterburncastle. Or dine in on soups and sandwiches
Lindisfarne Gospels, one of
com; Otterburn; from US$125). (deliatnumber4.co.uk; 4
Beaumont St; dishes from the world’s most celebrated
WHERE TO STAY A cross between a country inn
Crown & Anchor is a locally and a sumptuous gentlemen’s US$2.50). and well-preserved medieval
run traditional pub-with-rooms on club, The Joiners Arms offers five ORobson & Sons is a much-loved manuscripts, using the
Lindisfarne. Its four simple rooms boutique rooms with exposed- family-run smokehouse in British Library’s online site
IMAGING/ALAMY

(one dog-friendly) offer views of brick walls, rural views and roll- the fishing village of (bl.uk/onlinegallery/
(bl
the castle, priory and church, and top baths, plus gastropub dining Craster. It is famous for sacredtexts/
s
sa
the bar serves good homemade (joiners-arms.com; Newton-by- kippers and smoked salmon li
lindisfarne html).
pub grub (holyisland the-Sea; from US$175). (kipper.co.uk; Haven Hill;
kippers US$7.50/kg).
84 JANUARY 2017
 Fold 2
Edinburgh Castle above
Princes Street Gardens

History and art

MUSEUM OF
EDINBURGH
Behind the colourful façade of
Huntly House, built in 1570, is a
museum covering the city from its
prehistory to the present. Exhibits
include a copy of the National
Covenant of 1638 and a feeding
bowl that belonged to Greyfriars
Bobby, the city’s most famous dog
(edinburghmuseums.org.uk; 142
Canongate; 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, Raeburn’s most famous work at
noon–5pm Sun in Aug only; free). the Scottish National Gallery
SCOTTISH NATIONAL
MINI GUIDE GALLERY
Scotland’s premier collection of
CITY ART CENTRE
The largest and most populist
art is housed in this imposing of Edinburgh’s smaller galleries,

Edinburgh
Neoclassical building. The the CAC is home to the city’s
galleries devoted to Scottish art collection of Scottish art,
include glowing portraits by ranging from the 17th century to

museums
Allan Ramsay, rural scenes by Sir the 20th (including works by the
David Wilkie and landscapes by Scottish Colourists), as well as
William McTaggart. Look out for many fine paintings, engravings
Scotland’s capital has enough museums to Henry Raeburn’s Reverend and photographs showing views
Robert Walker Skating on of Edinburgh at various stages of
crowd the Royal Mile, as well as a thousand Duddingston Loch its history (edinburghmuseums.
(nationalgalleries.org; The Mound; org.uk; 2 Market St; 10am–5pm
years of fortune and glory tinged with ghoulish 10am–5pm, to 7pm Thu; free). Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun; free).
history to discover around town.

Quirky Edinburgh Royal sights Fold 1

SCOTCH WHISKY EDINBURGH CASTLE
EXPERIENCE Watching over the city from its
Housed in a former school, this brooding black crags, Edinburgh
multimedia centre explains the Castle has served as both royal
making of whisky from barley to residence and military stronghold.
bottle in a series of exhibits and It houses the Honours of Scotland
demonstrations that combine (the country’s crown jewels) and
sight, sound and smell, including every day except Sunday it
a collection of 3,384 bottles of echoes to the sound of the One
Scotch (scotchwhiskyexperience. O’Clock Gun, fired from the
co.uk; 354 Castlehill; 10am–6pm northwestern walls The Royal Yacht Britannia was
Apr–Aug, to 5pm Sep–Mar; tour (edinburghcastle.gov.uk; launched at Clydebank in 1953
The Camera Obscura is housed in
and tasting from US$18). a Victorian-era rooftop chamber Castlehill; 9.30am–6pm Apr–Sep,
to 5pm Oct–Mar; US$20.35). ROYAL YACHT
CAMERA OBSCURA BRITANNIA
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines

Edinburgh’s Camera Obscura is SURGEON’S HALL HOLYROOD PALACE Since her last royal service in
a curious attraction from 1853 MUSEUMS At the eastern end of the Royal 1997, HMY Britannia has been
that uses lenses and mirrors to Inside a grand Ionic building Mile, the Palace of Holyroodhouse moored permanently in the
throw a live image of the city from 1832, this trio of museums (to give its full name) is the royal port of Leith. An audioguide
onto a large, white table. The provides a fascinating look at family’s official Scottish residence, tour through its 1950s-style
accompanying commentary is anatomy, dentistry and surgery but is more famous as the 1560s interiors lifts the curtain on the
entertaining and the whole in Scotland from the 15th century home of the ill-fated Mary Queen everyday lives of the royals and
experience has a quirky charm, – when barbers also performed of Scots. Tour highlights include gives an intriguing insight into
complemented by an intriguing bloodletting and amputations – to portraits of monarchs in the Great the Queen’s private tastes
exhibition dedicated to illusions the present day. The highlight is Gallery, Mary’s bedchamber and (royalyachtbritannia.co.uk;
of all kinds. Stairs lead up the grisly exhibit on the 1820s the ruins of Holyrood Abbey next Ocean Terminal, Leith;
through various displays to the Bodysnatchers Burke and Hare, door (royalcollection.org.uk; 9.30am–4.30pm Apr–Sep, to
Outlook Tower, for great views which includes Burke’s death mask Canongate; 9.30am–6pm Apr– 4pm Oct, 10am–3.30pm
of the city (camera-obscura. and a pocketbook bound in his skin Oct, to 4.30pm Nov–Mar; US$15). Nov–Mar; US$18.50).
co.uk; Castlehill; open daily, see (museum.rcsed.ac.uk; Nicolson St;
website for seasonal hours; 10am–5pm; US$7.50).
US$18). TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS

JANUARY 2017 85
MINI GUIDE
Edinburgh museums
Sights Sleeping

PHOTO TONY MARSH, GERAULT GREGORY/HEMIS.FR/GETTY, ROYAL YACHT BRITANNIA/PHOTO MARC MILLAR PHOTOGRAPHY,
MARTIN THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY, REVD DR ROBERT WALKER (1755-1808) SKATING ON DUDDINGSTON LOCH-ABOUT
Edinburgh essentials The know-how

COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM NEIL WILSON. PHOTOGRAPHS: CAMERA OBSCURA/
TRANSPORT WALKING TOURS
Edinburgh Waverley station has Edinburgh is a favourite FURTHER READING
Lonely Planet’s

1795-SIR HENRY RAEBURN/SCOTTISH NATIONAL GALLERY/THE NATIONAL GALLERIES OF SCOTLAND

direct train services from across stomping ground for ghost
Scotland and as far south as tours (pictured below) as well Pocket
Penzance. Its airport is seven miles as less supernatural jaunts: Edinburgh
west of the centre, with the most Cadies & Witchery Tours (US$13.99)
direct flights from Singapore or Leads a Murder & Mystery tour
Kuala Lumpur on KLM via of the Old Town, famous for its includes walking
Amsterdam (from US$825; klm. ‘jumper-ooters’ – costumed tours, day
Wallace’s Arthouse is within the
com). Otherwise fly BA direct to former Leith Assembly Rooms actors who ‘jump oot’ when planners,
London and take a long-distrance you least expect it reviews and neighbourhood
train to Edinburgh (additional 4½ (witcherytours.com; US$12). maps for the city. Next year
hours; from US$80 rtn; 3 Rothesay Terrace; from US$125). Edinburgh Literary Pub Tours will be the 30th anniversary
virgintrainseastcoast.com). Cheap Wallace’s Arthouse is a An enlightening two-hour
of Ian Rankin’s Scottish crime
train tickets sell out fast so book Georgian flat in Leith offering trawl through Edinburgh’s
as far ahead as possible. Edinburgh bed and breakfast. The rooms are literary history – and its novel series, Rebus, set in and
city centre is quite walkable, but styled by former fashion designer associated howfs (pubs) – in around Edinburgh – the latest
there’s an extensive bus network Wallace, who is an unfailing the entertaining company of instalment is Even Dogs in the
(lothianbuses.com) and also a source of local knowledge(wallace Messrs Clart and McBrain Wild (US$10; Orion). The
tram (edinburghtrams.com; bus sarthousescotland.com; 41/4 (edinburghliterarypubtour. Scottish capital prides itself
and tram single tickets US$2). Constitution St; from US$150). co.uk; US$15 online). on its extensive roster of
The Witchery is set in a Trainspotting Tours
WHERE TO STAY 16th-century Old Town house in A tour of locations from Irvine festivals – many of them in
While its 27 bedrooms are the shadow of Edinburgh Castle. Welsh’s notorious 1993 novel August, including the
contemporary in style, the public Its nine lavish Gothic-style suites Trainspotting, delivered with Edinburgh Festival Fringe:
spaces at B+B Edinburgh are a are extravagantly furnished with wit and enthusiasm. Not edinburghfestivalcity.com
Victorian extravaganza of carved tapestries and open fires suitable for kids (leithwalks. is a sophisticated portal
oak, stained glass and elaborate (thewitchery.com; Castlehill, Royal co.uk; occasional dates; covering them.
fireplaces (bb-edinburgh.com; Mile; from US$400). from US$5).

86 JANUARY 2017
 Fold 2
Views towards
Lisbon’s historic
centre and the
National Pantheon

Sights
MUSEU COLEÇÃO
BERARDO
Billionaire José Berardo’s collection
of Abstract, Surrealist and Pop Art
is a rocket ride through modern
art, from greats such as Warhol,
Lichtenstein and Miró. The
ultra-white, minimalist gallery is
the star of the Centro Cultural de
Belém; its temporary exhibitions
are among Portugal’s best A lobster-phone by Salvador Dalí
(museuberardo.pt; Praça do at the Museu Coleção Berardo
Império; 10am–7pm; free).
MOSTEIRO DOS MUSEO NACIONAL
MINI GUIDE JERÓNIMOS
There’s nothing like the moment
DO AZULEJO
Azulejos (hand-painted tiles)
you step into this Unesco-listed are a calling card of Portuguese

Budget
monastery in Belém, which was design dating back centuries,
commissioned by Manuel I to and Lisbon’s Museu Nacional
trumpet Vasco da Gama’s discovery do Azulejo does them justice.

Lisbon
of a sea route to India in 1498. Housed in a 16th-century
The honey-stoned cloisters are convent in the historic Alfama
dripping with organic detail in district, here you’ll find every
Lisbon is a cinematically beautiful city of their delicate arches and columns kind, from early Ottoman
wrapped with leaves and vines geometry to Goan intricacies
promenades, monumental squares, heady (www.mosteirojeronimos.pt; Praça (museudoazulejo.pt; Rua Madre
do Império; closed Mon; US$9). de Deus 4; closed Mon; US$5).
views and cobbled alleys made for strolling –
happily, its appeal is wallet-friendly, too.

Activities Eating & drinking Fold 1

TRAM 28 BONJARDIM
This bright-yellow tram is like Try the real Nando’s at this
the full-scale version of a Hornby no-frills joint near the Palácio
model and the perfect mode of Foz in Rossio, which serves juicy,
transport for a tour of Lisbon. It’s spit-roast frango (chicken) with
a gloriously rickety, old-fashioned a brush of spicy piri-piri sauce
ride from Praça Martim Moniz to and a mountain of fries. The
Campo Ourique. Expect mood- décor is simple and the pavement
lifting views and steep climbs. terrace is elbow-to-elbow in
Use bom dias (good mornings) summer, but it’s totally worth it
to bag a space by the window (00 351 213 424 389; Travessa Typically hearty lunch on offer
(US$3for a single trip or US$5.45 de Santo Antão 11; noon–11pm; at friendly and relaxed Pois Café
for a 24-hour pass, from metro Tram 28 passes in front of the Sé roast chicken for two US$12).
stations). cathedral in Lisbon’s old quarter
POIS CAFÉ EL REI D’FRANGO
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines

WANDER ALFAMA’S A laid-back vibe prevails at this You’ll feel stuffed after eating at
BACKSTREETS HANG OUT AT fresh-food café in Alfama, close this simple, local haunt in Baixa,
Moorish history seeps through MIRADOURO DE SANTA to the Sé (cathedral), where where the chefs rustle up plates
the backstreets of Alfama, CATARINA sofas encourage lingering piled high with salmon and febras
Lisbon’s medina-like old town. Lisbon is a roller coaster city of breakfasts or lazy afternoons (sautéed pork strips) for pocket
It’s an enticing jumble of seven hills, which means sipping coffee. Its changing money. The menu is all about
cobbled alleys and flower- knock-out viewpoints hidden menu includes creative salads, unpretentious, traditional
draped squares filled with around every corner. Our pick is sandwiches and fresh juices, plus Portuguese food, and the huge
flapping laundry and fado song, the precipitous miradouro in a delicious daily special of a portions make this churrasqueira
where steep stairways climb to Santa Catarina, where students soup, main and a drink for just (grill house) a great deal (00 351
castle- and river-facing bash out rhythms, pot-smoking US49 (poiscafe.com; Rua de São 213 424 066; Calçada do Duque
miradouros (viewpoints). Spend hippies lounge, pram-wielding João da Praça 93; open daily 5; noon–3.30pm and 7pm–10pm
some time wandering here parents stroll and loved-up until 11pm; mains from US$6). Mon–Sat; dishes from US$5.55).
and you’ll be rewarded with couples meet. The views are
snapshots of daily life and will fantastic, stretching from the river
be privy to unexpected beauty to the Ponte 25 de Abril and
and local banter. Cristo Rei (Rua de Santa Catarina). TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS

JANUARY 2017 87
MINI GUIDE
Budget Lisbon
Activities Sights Eating Sleeping

Lisbon essentials The know-how

COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM REGIS ST LOUIS. PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREA ARMELLIN/
TRANSPORT TIPS FOR A BARGAIN
KLM flies one of the cheapest and Lisbon consistently ranks as one FURTHER READING
most direct routes from Singapore of the cheapest European Lonely
or Kuala Lumpur with a stopover in capitals to visit, but every bit Planet’s
Amsterdam (from US$792; klm. helps for a great-value trip: Pocket
com). The quickest way to reach OSave your museum trips for Lisbon

SIME/4CORNERS, DANIEL VIÑÉ GARCIA/GETTY IMAGES, MIGUEL SOBREIRA/SUPERSTOCK

the centre is by metro (single Sunday morning, when many (US$13.99)
US$1.25) or the AeroBus shuttle, offer free entry. gives a good
which runs every until 11pm The artful chill-out area at the OCouvert (the bread, olives and insight into
(US$3.20; yellowbustours.com). Lisbon Lounge Hostel other goodies brought to the the city,
The AeroBus ticket gives free restaurant table as appetisers) with more
passage on the entire city bus costs. You pay for what you eat, ideas and tips for seeing it on
network for the rest of the day. from US$55). but it’s fine to send it away if you the cheap. Lisbonlux.com is
A taxi will cost you around US$15. Lisbon Lounge Hostel in don’t want it. a comprehensive online
Lisbon’s public transport network is Baixa is ‘flashpacker’ territory; OSandemans offers fun, free, city guide with up-to-the-
cheap and efficient. Single tickets rooms are en suite and breakfast
informative walking tours of minute reviews and news
for the metro/bus/tram cost is free. Three-course dinners, bike
US$1.25/1.60/2.70. However, hire, walking tours and DJ nights downtown Lisbon at 11am and about new openings in the
a 24-hour pass covers all three, are all part of the experience 2pm daily, from the monument city. Crime writer Robert
as well as the funiculars (US$5.50). (lisbonloungehostel.com; Rua de on Praça Luís de Camões Wilson skillfully intertwines
São Nicolau, 41; from US$65). (newlisbontours.com). contemporary and WWII-
WHERE TO STAY The 11 rooms at Casa Amora OThe Lisboa Card is excellent era Lisbon in his award-
In a prime spot on the edge of are bright, elegantly furnished value, offering unlimited public winning thriller, A Small
Bairro Alto, Independente Suites and uniquely designed. The hotel transport, entry to museumsms and D
Death in
& Terrace is stylish and has some is in the peaceful neighbourhood attractions, plus 50% L
Lisbon (US$9;
Art Deco details. The hostel has a of Amoreiras and there’s a garden discounts on tours and Harper
H
bar, two restaurants and a beer patio where breakfast is served cruises (lisboacard.org; Collins).
garden (theindependente.pt; Rua (casaamora.com; Rua João Penha 24-/48-/72-hour cards
de São Pedro de Alcantara 81; 13; US$80). cost US$20/35/40).

88 JANUARY 2017
 Fold 2

Art
GALLERIE
DELL’ACCADEMIA
Bellini, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese
and Canaletto… all the great local
masters are represented at this
historic gallery. The old convent
complex makes a fitting home for
staggering works of Venetian art
ranging from the 14th to the 18th
centuries (gallerieaccademia.org;
Campo della Carità 1050; 8.15am–
A corner of the Doge’s 7.15pm, to 2pm Mon; US$10, first
Palace overlooking
the Venetian Lagoon Sun of the month free). Venice’s more modern side at the
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
PEGGY GUGGENHEIM
MINI GUIDE COLLECTION
The palatial canalside home of PUNTA DELLA DOGANA
the eccentric American heiress Built in 1677, Venice’s old customs

Culture
Peggy Guggenheim now shows house has been transformed
off her stockpile of Surrealist, under architect Tadao Ando into a
Futurist and Abstract Expressionist dramatic space to house works

in Venice
art, with works by up to 200 belonging to art collector François
artists, including Jackson Pollock, Pinault, as well as rotating
Picasso, Henry Moore, exhibitions of contemporary art
Venetians have been in love with art, music and Giacometti, Salvador Dalí and from some of the world’s most
her ex-husband Max Ernst (www. prolific and provocative creative
theatre for centuries, and today Italy’s most guggenheim-venice.it; 10am– minds (palazzograssi.it/museo/
6pm Wed–Mon; Palazzo Venier punta-della-dogana; Dorsoduro 2;
watery city shouts its creativity and artistry dei Leoni; US$13.50). 10am–7pm Wed–Mon; US$13.50).
from its opulent canalside rooftops.

Architecture Performance Fold 1

ST MARK’S BASILICA TEATRO LA FENICE
With its Byzantine domes and When it opened in the late 18th
glittering mosaics, the Basilica di century, La Fenice was the envy of
San Marco is an unforgettable Europe. Rossini and Bellini staged
sight. The current building dates operas here, and Verdi premiered
to the 11th century and reflects Rigoletto and La Traviata. Tragedy
Venice’s cosmopolitan image, befell the opulent theatre in 1996
with a Greek cross layout and when it was destroyed by fire; it
walls clad in marbles imported took a faithful reconstruction to
from afar (basilicasanmarco.it; resurrect it (teatrolafenice.it;
Piazza San Marco; 9.45am–5pm Cover up knees and shoulders Campo San Fantin; tours 9.30am–
Mon–Sat, from 2pm Sun, closes to enter St Mark’s Basilica 6pm; theatre tours US$9, opera
4pm Sun Nov–Easter; free). tickets from around US$25). A performance of the ballet
La Bayadère at La Fenice
DOGE’S PALACE SANTA MARIA DEI TEATRO GOLDONI
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines

The grand Gothic Palazzo Ducale MIRACOLI Named after the great Venetian
was the official residence of the This chapel was built around playwright Carlo Goldoni, Venice’s INTERPRETI VENEZIANI
Doge (the mostly ceremonial 1480 to house Niccolò di main theatre has an impressive Once you’ve heard these
leader of the Venetian Republic) Pietro’s Madonna painting, dramatic range that runs from classical musicians perform
and seat of the government until which started miraculously comedy to Shakespearean Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, it’ll forever
its end in 1797. On the first floor, weeping in its outdoor shrine. tragedy (mostly in Italian), plus remind you of summer storms
roaring lions and world maps The lofty vaulted interior and ballets and concerts. The stark erupting over the lagoon and
grace the walls of the Doge’s domed apse seem effortless but post-WWII façade is dominated snow-muffled footsteps hurrying
Apartments; from there, a they’re marvels of early by huge bronze doors, but the over footbridges in winter’s-night
golden staircase dripping with Renaissance engineering, theatre was first built in 1622, intrigues. Concerts are staged in
gilt stucco ascends to the lavish achieved without the Gothic and its jewel-box interior seats an atmospheric old church
Grand Council Hall gimmick of buttressing. Angels just 800 (teatrostabileveneto.it; (interpretiveneziani.com; Chiesa
(palazzoducale.visitmuve.it; and mermaids are carved right Calle del Teatro; tickets from San Vidal, Campiello di San Vidal;
Piazzetta San Marco; 8.30am– into the railings of the chancel around US$6). doors open 8.30pm; US$26).
7pm, to 5.30pm Nov– staircase (Campo dei Miracoli;
Mar; combined ticket US$17). 10am–5pm Mon–Sat; US$2.20).
TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS

JANUARY 2017 89
MINI GUIDE
Culture in Venice
Entertainment Sights Sleeping

Venice essentials The know-how

MICHELE CROSERA, © PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION VENICE PHOTO ANDREA SARTI/CAST1466, ALVARO LEIVA/
COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ALISON BING AND PAULA HARDY. PHOTOGRAPHS: ©
TRANSPORT LOCAL ARTISTRY
Qatar Airways flies from O Glass By the 15th century, FURTHER READING
Singapore and Kuala Lumpur via Venice was setting unrivalled Lonely Planet’s
Doha to Venice Marco Polo glass-making standards. On the Venice &
airport, five miles from the city island of Murano, a 10-minute the Veneto
across its lagoon (from US$673; ferry ride from the city, you’ll find (US$21.99) is
qatarairways.com). From Marco dozens of workshops and studios
Polo, a ferry service (from $13.50; an in-depth
Hotel Flora is hidden in Venetian selling jewel-bright glass
alilaguna.it) takes 45 to 80 (pictured below) – some tacky, guide to the
style down a narrow backstreet
minutes to reach most destinations some exquisite. lagoon city and

AGEFOTOSTOCK, STEPPENWOLF/ALAMY, JAN WLODARCZYK/4CORNERS

in Venice. Buses (one-way S$7.40; O Paper Traditional embossing its islands, while Pocket
atvo.it) depart from the airport 462; from US$92). and marbling techniques for Venice (US$13.99) is ideal for
every 30 minutes and take 20–30 Surrounded by glitzy San bindings and endpapers have weekenders. Listings site
minutes, traffic permitting. Marco neighbours, Hotel Flora is taken on modern lives: look out Venezia Da Vivere is useful for
Venice’s main mode of public a classy, ivy-covered retreat with for paper-made handbags, lamps
transport is the vaporetto (water an enchanting courtyard garden. music performances and art
and even furniture. openings in the city
bus). Single rides cost US$7 (actv. Rooms feature antique mirrors and
O Textiles Venice’s handmade
it); for frequent use, get a timed fluffy duvets atop hand-carved (veneziadavivere.com).
pass (one-day US$18, two days beds (hotelflora.it; Calle lace graced the décolletage and
An award-winning tale of
US$28, three days US$38). Bergamaschi 2283a; from ruffs of European aristocracy for
centuries. On the colourful island Vivaldi’s Venice, Tiziano
US$125). Scarpa’s 2009 book Stabat
WHERE TO STAY For a luxurious stay in Venice, village of Burano,
B&B Corte Vecchia is a stylish it has to be a palace. Hotel a 50-minute ferry ride away, the Mater is based on the true
steal just, a stone’s throw from Palazzo Barbarigo has 18 plush Museo Del Merletto charts the story of the
Peggy Guggenheim Collection and rooms combining modern rise and fall of the craft from the composer’s
Accademia. The three rooms are all elegance and masquerade intrigue. 16th to 20th centuries orphan-girl
simple yet understatedly cool, with Junior suites overlook the Grand (museomerletto. orchestra (US$10;
contemporary and vintage objects Canal (palazzobarbarigo.com; Calle visitmuve.it; closed Serpent’s Tail).
(cortevecchia.net; Rio Terà San Vio Corner 2765; from US$210). Mon; US$5).

90 JANUARY 2017
 Fold 2

Creole & Cajun

UPPERLINE
Owner JoAnn Clevenger loves her
city – its art, architecture and
cuisine – and Upperline reflects
these passions in its menu. Dishes
such as duck étouffée (a spicy
Cajun stew) with corn bread and
pepper jelly are classics prepared
with a modern sensibility. The
restaurant resides in a beautiful Elizabeth’s is a friendly spot in
old house (upperline.com; 1413 the Bywater neighbourhood
The French Quarter Upperline St; 5.30pm–9.30pm
is the historic heart Wed–Sun; mains from US$20).
of New Orleans
CLANCY’S
ELIZABETH’S This white-tablecloth restaurant
MINI GUIDE Elizabeth’s is deceptively divey
but it provides a quintessential
embraces style, the good life and
Creole cuisine with a chattering
New Orleans experience: smiling joie de vivre and top-notch

Eating in
sass, weird artistic edges and service. Its specialities include
overindulgence. Cajun-style fried oysters and brie, veal with
brunch and breakfast are top crabmeat and béarnaise, and

New Orleans
draws, with dishes such as French lobster and mushroom risotto. Try
toast and sinful praline bacon or to reserve ahead, and dress up a
a breakfast po’boy sandwich little (clancysneworleans.com;
Tastes from Europe, Africa and the Americas (elizabethsrestaurantnola.com; 6100 Annunciation St; lunch Thu–
601 Gallier St; 8am–2.30pm Fri, dinner Mon–Sat; lunch mains
blend into the Creole cuisine of Louisiana’s main daily, 6pm–10pm Mon–Sat; from US$17, dinner mains from
breakfast po’boy US$8). US$29).
city, joined by the down-home Cajun cooking of
the surrounding marshlands.

Budget Pub Food Fold 1

COOP’S PLACE SYLVAIN
Coop’s is an authentic Cajun The focus at this rustic yet
dive in the French Quarter with elegant gastropub is Southern
an air of chaos and a reputation haute cuisine and excellent
for surly staff but it’s worth it for cocktails, and its chefs are
the food: rabbit jambalaya and passionate about using local
chicken with shrimp and tasso ingredients. Rich, refined and
(smoked ham) in a cream sauce delicious dishes such as duck
– there’s no such thing as ‘too confit served on a bed of
heavy’ here. You have to be 21 or black-eyed peas are indicative of
over to enter (coopsplace.net; The Cake Café & Bakery’s king the gastronomic experience
1109 Decatur St; 11am–late; cakes, in Mardi Gras colours (sylvainnola.com; 625 Chartres Evening outside on the patio at
mains from US$7.75). St; 10.30am–2:30pm Fri–Sun, Nola Brewing’s tap room
dinner daily; mains from US$14).
CAKE CAFÉ & BAKERY WILLIE MAE’S SCOTCH
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines

On weekend mornings the line HOUSE MIMI’S IN THE MARIGNY NOLA BREWING
is quite literally out the door The fried chicken at Willie Mae’s Mimi’s is a late-night institution It’s a bit of a meat-fest in Nola
at this café and bakery in the has been dubbed some of the best that draws neighbourhood Brewing’s Uptown taproom,
picturesque Creole quarter of in the world by the revered James crowds for Spanish tapas and where the award-winning
Faubourg Marigny. The breakfast Beard Foundation. It’s a simple, beer. It’s attractively dishevelled McClure’s BBQ has set up shop,
menu includes a roll call of atmospheric diner where the kids with a house-party vibe and dim, serving pulled pork, burgers,
Southern staples such as local can get peanut-butter-and-jelly brown lighting like a fantasy in brisket and ribs galore to soak up
catfish, boudin sausage and fried sandwiches while the adults sepia. The food is surprisingly the two dozen craft beers on tap.
oysters and grits (seasonally munch on soul food. This place is gourmet, with dishes such as Every Tuesday there’s a pop-up
available), while the bakery all about the chicken, coated in crab gazpacho, and mushroom restaurant (11am–11pm) serving
whips up sweet creations (take a the perfect blend of spices; try it and goat’s cheese empanadas more refined small plates
look at the king cake!) and fresh with a classic side of butter beans (mimismarigny.com; 2601 Royal (nolabrewing.com; 3001
bagels (nolacakes.com; 2440 (williemaesnola.com; 2401 Saint St; kitchen open 6pm–late; tapas Tchoupitoulas St; 11am–11pm
Chartres St; 7am–3pm Wed– Ann St; 10am–5pm Mon–Sat; from US$5). daily; burgers from US$8).
Mon; breakfast dishes from fried chicken & side US$11).
US$6.25).
TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS

JANUARY 2017 91
MINI GUIDE
Eating in New Orleans
Eating Sleeping

New Orleans essentials The know-how

PHOTOGRAPHS: JORDAN BANKS/4CORNERS, JERRY MORAN NATIVE ORLEANIAN LLC, LAURI PATTERSON/GETTY
TRANSPORT MENU DECODER
Fly United Airlines; there's one Beignets Flash-fried puffy FURTHER READING
stopover in San Francisco from squares of dough, dusted Lonely Planet

COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM AMY C BALFOUR AND ADAM KARLIN.
Singapore, and two in Narita, liberally with powdered sugar. New Orleans
Japan and Houston, Texas from Boudin Spicy Cajun sausage (US$19.99) is a
Kuala Lumpur (from US$1,056; made with pork and rice. comprehensive
united.com). The Airport Shuttle Grits A thin, corn-based
links the airport to hotels in porridge similar to polenta, guide to this US
Southern-style breakfasts are city, while
the downtown area (single S$20; a highlight at La Belle Esplanade usually served as a side.
airportshuttleneworleans.com) Gumbo A spicy, full-bodied soup Pocket New
while a taxi costs US$30 for one or stew served over rice. Coastal Orleans (US$13.99) is ideal
or two passengers. Single trips on 2216 Esplanade Ave; from US$170). gumbo teems with oysters, for short breaks. Find more
buses or streetcars (trams) cost The French Quarter location jumbo shrimp and crabs, while restaurant reviews at
$1.25 (exact change needed), plus and Creole ambience of Soniat prairie-bred Cajuns turn to their
bestofneworleans.com.
25¢ for transfers (norta.com). House are hard to beat. Some barnyards and smokehouses.
A Jazzy Pass gives you unlimited rooms open onto a courtyard Jambalaya A mixed rice dish of Partly written after the
rides (one/three days US$3/9) with fountain and ferns, while fowl, shellfish or meat, with devastation of Hurricane
and can be bought at local winding stairways lead to elegant, tomatoes, onion, bell pepper Katrina in 2005, Richard
Walgreen’s. For a taxi, call Unitedantique-filled quarters and seasonings (pictured). Campanella’s collection of
Cabs (unitedcabs.com). (soniathouse.com; 1133 Chartres Po’boy An overstuffed sandwich essays and articles titled
St; from US$235). served on local French bread Bienville’s Dilemma shows
WHERE TO STAY Audubon Cottages is a luxury and dripping with roast beef,
There’s an Alice in Wonderland collection of suites set in restored fried shrimp and/or fried how the geography, history
feel to La Belle Esplanade – a b&b French Quarter houses. Wrought- oysters. and culture of New
in the historic Tremé district. iron loungers frame a saltwater Snowball Orleans have helped to
Furnishings in the five themed pool and the exposed-brick rooms Shaved ice in shape its present
suites vary, but plush chairs and exude a period New Orleans a cup with (US$23; University of
claw-foot tubs are characteristic charm (auduboncottages.com; flavoured Louisiana).
features (labelleesplanade.com; 509 Dauphine St; from US$305). syrup.

92 JANUARY 2017
 Fold 2
The vineyards of the
Warwick Estate in
Stellenbosch

Around Stellenbosch
WARWICK ESTATE
This family-run winery started life as
an 18th-century farm and its
bordeaux-blends are legendary. It
offers an informative ‘Big Five’ wine
safari (referring to grape varieties)
through the vineyards, and picnics
championing locally sourced
produce, perfect for a lazy afternoon
on Warwick’s lawns (warwickwine.
com; R44 between Stellenbosch Spier’s wine tasting bar, with its
and Klapmuts; tastings US$1.25, eye-catching chandelier
wine safari US$2.50).

HARTENBERG ESTATE SPIER

MINI GUIDE Lounging picturesquely on the
slopes of Bottelary Hills,
A chandelier made of Spier wine
bottles hangs above the bar at
Hartenberg is a pretty place to this estate, which has excellent

South Africa’s
spend some time and produces shiraz, cabernet and red blends.
award-winning reds, particularly But a visit here is less about wine
shiraz. Bird-spotting, boules on and more about other activities

Winelands
the lawn, wetland walks and on offer, such as bird of prey
fireside lunches make visitors displays, Segway tours of the
linger, too. Underground cellar vineyard and a Saturday farmers’
Indomitable mountains provide a backdrop for tours can be arranged in market. In summer, the Spier
advance (Mon–Fri) and there’s a Winelands Express train runs
vast wine estates in South Africa’s Winelands. play area for kids from Cape Town to the vineyard
(hartenbergestate.com; M23, (spier.co.za; R310, off Annandale
There are over 200 historic vineyard estates Bottelary Rd; tastings US$1.25). Rd; tastings US$1.85).
to tour, all within a day’s drive of Cape Town.

Around Franschhoek Around Paarl Valley Fold 1

GRANDE PROVENCE SPICE ROUTE
At the heart of this winery is a Resembling more of a village
beautifully revamped, 18th- than a single wine estate, Spice
century manor, home to a Route is known for its complex
stylish restaurant and a gallery red wines, particularly the
displaying contemporary South flagship syrah. It has a lot else
African art. There is a range of going on, such as glass-blowing
tasting options, including demonstrations, a local artists’
grape-juice tasting for the kids, studio, chocolatier, craft beer and
and charming rooms. Franschhoek biltong bar, and two restaurants.
is a five-minute drive away The estate has views over the Decanting a fine bottle of red
(grandeprovence.co.za; R45, Simonsberg Mountain range at the Spice Route winery
Main Rd; tastings from US$1.85, A table set for lunch in the shade (spiceroute.co.za; Suid-Agter-
cellar tours US$1.25). at La Motte wine estate Paarl Rd; tastings from US$1.25).
KWV EMPORIUM
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines

LEOPARD’S LEAP GLEN CARLOU The bonus with KWV Emporium

A more casual approach greets LA MOTTE Glen Carlou is a relatively young is that it’s just a short walk from
tasters at Leopard’s Leap, where This sprawling estate just west upstart compared with many Paarl’s train station so no
the bright, modern, barn-like of Franschhoek has lots to keep other Wineland estates, but the restraint is needed at the tasting
tasting room has comfy sofas visitors entertained, including wines are award-winning. The table. The estate has won awards
strewn around and the lawns a three-mile circular hiking trail, tasting room has a panoramic for its fortified wines and
have a jungle gym for kids. a sculpture amble and a history view of Tortoise Hill and Paarl innovative tasting pairings,
Cooking classes are available walk through the estate. La Valley, there’s a contemporary including brandy and fudge, wine
once a month. The vineyard’s Motte’s shiraz is superb and its art gallery and a wild garden and nougat, and a combo that
owners are passionate about Pierneef à la Motte restaurant bursting with indigenous flora. matches wines with biltong and
the conservation of the Cape dabbles in wine-pairing lunches The estate is renowned for its nuts. There’s also a tea and
Mountain leopard, which roams and dinners. The restaurant is bordeaux blend and sumptuous chocolate pairing for non-
these parts, and their work with named for South African artist chardonnay (glencarlou.co.za; drinkers (kwvwineemporium.
a local trust is outlined through Jacob Hendrik Pierneef and a Simondium Rd, Klapmuts; co.za; Kohler St; tastings from
displays on the estate collection of his work is on show tastings from US$1.25). US$2.50).
(leopardsleap.co.za; R45, Main (la-motte.com; R45, Main Rd;
Road; tastings from US$1.25). closed Sun; tastings US$2.50). TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS

JANUARY 2017 93
MINI GUIDE
South Africa’s Winelands
Drinking Sleeping

South Africa essentials The know-how

TRANSPORT ADMIRING THE VINES
Cape Town is the gateway city for OIf you don’t want to drive, FURTHER READING
forays into South Africa’s Western and a tour group doesn’t appeal, Lonely
Cape Winelands and Qatar try the Vine Hopper, a hop-on, Planet’s
Airways flies from Singapore and hop-off service that visits Cape Town
Kuala Lumpur via Doha (from 12 wineries in Stellenbosch & the
US$743; qatarairways.com). Buses (vinehopper.co.za; US$12 per day). Garden
run from the airport into Cape Chamonix is situated high above OBikes ‘n Wines Tour is a highly Route
Town every half hour (US$4.30 the fertile Franschhoek valley recommended carbon-negative (US$21.99)

COMPILED BY NATALIE PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM LUCY CORNE

single). Frequent trains run from company that organises short covers the
Cape Town to Stellenbosch in a pool (summerwood.co.za; cycle rides taking in a handful of Winelands
around an hour and to Paarl in 75 28 Jonkershoek Rd; from US$25). Stellenbosch or Franschhoek – its Day Trips & Wineries
minutes (metrorail.co.za; US$1 Chamonix is a wine estate in wineries. Trips range from half chapter can be downloaded
single). There’s a tourist bus, the Franschhoek with a Cape Dutch- a day to two days (bikesnwines. at lonelyplanet.com
Baz Bus, which runs from Cape style lodge, luxurious ‘bush’ forest com; tours from US$30). (US$4.95). Platter’s South
Town to Stellenbosch (bazbus. suites as well as basic self-catering OThe Franschhoek Wine Tram
African Wine Guide is the
com; US$14). You’ll need to take a units. There’s also a private wildlife (pictured) is a fun alternative to
taxi from Stellenbosch to reserve and guests may spy zebra, the usual tour and uses a tram and top annual guide to the
Franschhoek. Alternatively, hire a ostrich, eland and springbok open-sided bus to provide a nation’s wines, with tasting
car at the airport (from US$12 per (chamonix.co.za; from US$55). hop-on, hop-off service. There are notes and ratings
day; avis.com). Grand Roche is a divine Cape four routes to choose from (wineonaplatter.com). To
Dutch manor house in the (winetram.co.za; from US$11). get to grips with wine
WHERE TO STAY shadow of Paarl Rock. Historic OFor an unforgettable experience, tasting try Love Your Wine
With its elegant Georgian and outhouses have been transformed take a hot-air balloon trip over the written by Cathy Marston
Victorian architecture, into over 30 luxurious suites. Plus Winelands, departing from Paarl (US$15.99; Bookstorm),
Stellenbosch makes a good base there’s a swimming pool and with Wineland Ballooning g who also runs a South
for wine touring. Summerwood award-winning restaurant (kapinfo.com; Africa-based wine blog
is a stately guesthouse by a nature (granderoche.com; Plantasie St; US$178). (cathymarston.co.za).
reserve, with bright rooms and from US$135).

94 JANUARY 2017
 PRIZE DRAW

WIN a 2-night stay in Cosmo Hotel

Hong Kong (2 sets to giveaway)

Cosmo Hotel Wan Chai Hong Kong is an exquisite boutique hotel in Hong Kong well situated amid the bustling and hustling city centres
– Wan Chai and Causeway Bay, where guests can immerse themselves into both the local interests and the contemporary lifestyle in this
vibrant city. The hotel is a mere 8-minute walk from Causeway Bay subway station with Times Square mega shopping mall nearby,
making it one of the most convenient hotels in Wan Chai Hong Kong.

* Terms & conditions apply

PRIZE DRAW ENTRY FORM COSMO HOTEL HONG KONG Promotion

THE PRIZE
For your chance to win this fantastic prize, fill in your details and post this form to: This great prize includes:
Regent Media Pte Ltd, Lonely Planet Asia Jan 2017, 20 Bedok South Road Singapore 469277
Two nights’ stay in the Cosmo Hotel
Hong Kong’s Executive Room
Title Name

Address HOW TO ENTER

To be in with a chance of winning this fantastic
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Postal code DOB / / entry form and send it to: Regent Media Pte Ltd,
Mobile Email* Lonely Planet Asia Jan 2017, 20 Bedok South Road
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lpcontests@regentmedia.sg, titled Jan 2017 -
information from any of these companies by post or phone, please tick this box . * Please include your email address on your entry if you COSMO HOTEL HONG KONG Promotion with
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The management reserves the right to replace items with those of similar value.
The management’s decision is final and no further queries will be entertained.
Entry information may be used for future marketing and promotional purposes.
JANUARY 2017 95
 Travel Quiz

What on Earth?
2
Lopburi town puts Whichisland
Which African country,
country – 50

1 on a tropical fruit
banquet for
monkeys in late
50 years
years
30
independent
independent
theSeptember, is the
UK on 30 November
main setting forflag,
– has this
on
from

The No.
and1

3
November. Ladies’ Detective Agency
Bridgetown as
Which much- novels? its capital?
visited Asian
country
is it in? Which city
is the main
home of
Cantopop?

COMPILED BY RORY GOULDING. PHOTOGRAPHS: GNOMEANDI/GETTY IMAGES, MARK RUBENS/GETTY, ANDREW CHIN/GETTY IMAGES, TIMO HARTIKAINEN/REX/
International Mountain

4
Which northern
ry invented
country
5 Day is marked on 11
December. Excluding
undersea peaks, which
mountain range is the
world’s longest?
6
Burgundy wine
bottles traditionally
ort’ of
the ‘sport’

SHUTTERSTOCK, BARTOSZ HADYNIAK/GETTY, JEAN DESY/GETTY, RWEISSWALK/ALAMY, DANNY MARTINDALE/GETTY

have sloping
arrying?
wife-carrying?
shoulders. Which
French city gives
its name to this
more rounded
shape of bottle?

9
Château Frontenac is said

7 to be the world’s most

photographed hotel.
Which country is it in?

8
In which country do most
of the world’s 22 million
Which town
links 30
November,
Prince William
and golf?
speakers of Amharic live? Its
Ge’ez script is also used in Tigrinya
and other local languages.

9) ST ANDREWS, SCOTLAND (NAMED AFTER THE SAINT WHOSE FEAST DAY IS 30 NOVEMBER, AND HOME TO PRINCE WILLIAM’S FORMER UNIVERSITY AND THE ROYAL AND ANCIENT GOLF CLUB).
1) THAILAND. 2) BARBADOS. 3) HONG KONG. 4) FINLAND. 5) THE ANDES. 6) BORDEAUX. 7) CANADA (QUÉBEC CITY). 8) ETHIOPIA.
YOU WANT ANSWERS?

96 JANUARY 2017