Ford 5200 2 Barrel Carburetor
Rebuild Steps
Disassembly
Bowl Cover - Remove fuel inlet filter plug and filter screen assembly. Remove bowl cover screws and lock
washer. Remove retainer clips from choke rod and carefully remove bowl cover. Remove choke rod seal plug
and seal. Remove float shaft, float, and inlet needle. Remove three vacuum diaphragm screws, washers, and
diaphragm.
Automatic Choke - 1) Remove choke water cover and gasket. Detach choke thermostatic spring housing
retaining ring; then remove housing and gasket. Remove three choke housing assembly screws. Slip housing
away from main body and disengage fast idle rod. NOTE - Mark location of long screw.
2) Remove ‘O’ ring from vacuum passage. Unscrew choke shaft nut and remove lock washer. NOTE - Mark
position of fast idle com spring. Remove spring loop from choke lever; then remove spring and lever. Remove
choke shaft washer, choke shaft, lever, and Teflon bearing.
3) Remove fast idle lever and shaft retaining screw, bushing, and spring washer. Remove fast idle lever and flat
spacer. Remove adjusting screw and spring. Detach choke diaphragm cover assembly. Remove return spring,
diaphragm, and rod assembly. Remove diaphragm plug and diaphragm adjusting screw from the cover.
Accelerator Pump - Remove four pump cover screws and pump cover assembly. Remove pump diaphragm
assembly and pump return spring. Withdraw pump discharge valve assembly and pump discharge nozzle and
two gaskets. Remove pump channel plug screw.
Main Body - 1) Remove primary main well air bleed plug and main well tube. Remove secondary main well air
bleed plug and main well tube. Note location and size of air bleed plugs and main well tubes for reinstallation
in original positions.
2) Remove primary and secondary main metering jets. Note location of different size jets for proper
reinstallation. Remove power valve and gasket. Remove primary and secondary idle jet retainer plugs and idle
jets, located on sides of carburetor body (see illustration).
3) Turn idle limiter cap in to the stop. Remove idle limiter cap. Count turns required to lightly seat idle
adjustment needle
(count to the nearest 1/16 turn). Remove idle needle and spring. Remove secondary operating lever return
spring
4) Remove primary throttle lever nut, lock washer, primary lever and flat washer. Remove secondary lever
assembly and lever bushing. Remove idle adjusting lever spring and shaft washer. Note how primary throttle
return spring is hooked over idle adjusting lever and carburetor body.
5) Remove idle speed screw and spring from idle adjusting lever. Remove secondary throttle lever nut, lock
washer, flat washer and secondary throttle lever. Remove secondary idle adjusting screw.
Cleaning
• Soak all parts except rubber and plastic in preferably Berrymans. Follow directions on can.
• Rinse all chemicals off parts.
• Blow out all passages with compressed air.
• Spray carburetor cleaner through all passages, making sure it comes out the other end of the passage.
Assembly
Main Body - 1) Install secondary idle adjusting screw, secondary throttle lever, flat washer, lock washer, and
nut. Install idle speed screw and spring in idle adjusting lever. Install idle speed screw and spring in idle
adjusting lever. Install washer, primary throttle return spring and idle adjusting lever, and lever bushing. Install
secondary operating lever assembly.
2) Install flat washer and primary throttle lever. Install lock washer and nut. Attach secondary lever return
spring. Install idle mixture adjusting needle and spring. Turn it in until it lightly bottoms. Back out screw the
exact number of turns recorded at disassembly. Install a new limiter cap on idle mixture needle with stop tab
on cap against lean side of stop on carburetor body.
3) Install idle jets and plugs on each side of carburetor body. Check carefully for correct primary and secondary
sizes. Install power valve gasket and power valve. Install primary main jets, insuring correct sizes and installed.
Install primary and secondary main well tubes and plugs, insuring correct sizes are installed.
Accelerator Pump Assembly - Install pump channel plug screw. Install pump discharge nozzle with gasket on
top and bottom. Install pump discharge valve assembly. Install pump return spring and pump diaphragm
assembly. Start four pump cover screws. Hold pump operating lever partially open to align diaphragm gasket.
Tighten four cover screws evenly.
Automatic Choke -1) Install diaphragm adjusting screw. Initially adjust screw so that threads are flush with
inside of cover. Install adjusting screw plug. Install choke diaphragm and rod assembly. Install diaphragm
return spring and cover. Install three cover screws and lock washers.
2) Install fast idle adjusting screw and spring. Install fast idle flat spacer, fast idle adjusting lever, spring
washer, bushing, screw, and lock washer. Install Teflon bushing at thread end of choke housing shaft and start
shaft into bore. Install shaft carefully into bore, to avoid damaging Teflon bushing.
3) Install choke shaft washer, spring retainer fast idle cam spring, and choke lever. Position spring loop over
arm of choke lever, in original position. Install lock washer and nut. Install "0" ring on vacuum passage, bent
end of fast idle rod in fast idle adjusting lever, and other end of fast idle rod in primary throttle operating
lever.
4) Install three choke housing screws, noting position of long screw. Install thermostatic housing with gasket.
Position housing at Index. Install housing retaining ring and three screws. Install choke water housing gasket
and screw.
5200 Adjustments
Idle Speed & Mixture
All carburetors are equipped with limiter cops installed on idle mixture screws. These caps control maximum
idle richness and prevent a rich idle condition. Any adjustments to idle mixture screw must be done within the
range of the limiter cop.
1) Engine and under hood area temperatures must be stabilized before making any adjustments. Run engine
at 1500 RPM for approximately 20 minutes. This can be' accomplished by positioning fast idle screw or cam
follower on kickdown step of fast idle cam.
2) When engine has been sufficiently warmed up, kick throttle down to original position. Check timing and, if
necessary, adjust to specification. Disconnect hose from carburetor to decel valve at valve. Plug line to
carburetor.
3) Place manual transmission vehicles in neutral and automatic transmission vehicles in ‘D’. Adjust curb idle
adjusting screw to idle RPM specified on Engine Compartment Emission Control Tune-Up Decal. Now turn idle
mixture adjusting screw to obtain smoothest possible idle within the range of limiter cap.
Fast Idle Cam Clearance
Insert a 5/32” drill between lower edge of choke plate and air horn wall. Place fast idle adjusting screw on
second step of fast idle cam. Measure clearance between tang of choke lever and arm on fast idle cam. If
clearance is not within specifications (see table), bend choke lever tang as required.
Choke Plate Pulldown
1) Remove three hex-head screws and ring retaining the choke thermostatic spring cover. NOTE -Do not
remove the water cover screw. Pull water cover and thermostatic spring cover assembly out of way.
Set fast idle cam on top step.
2) Using screwdriver, push diaphragm stem back against its stop. Place a specified gauge rod or drill
between lower edge of choke plate and air horn wall. Remove slack from choke linkage by applying
pressure to top edge of choke plate. To adjust choke plate-to-air horn clearance, remove plug from
diaphragm and turn adjusting screw in or out as required.
De Choke Clearance
Hold throttle lever in wide open position. Take slack out of choke linkage by applying pressure to top
edge of choke plate. Measure clearance between lower edge of choke plate and air horn wall.
Adjustments are made by bending tab on fast idle lever where it touches the fast idle cam.
Fast Idle
With engine at normal operating temperature and fast idle screw on second step of fast idle cam (and
against shoulder of first step), adjust fast idle speed to specification by turning adjusting screw (see
illustration).
Dry Float Setting
With bowl cover held in an inverted position and float tang resting lightly on the spring-loaded needle,
measure clearance between edge of float and bowl cover. To adjust clearance, bend float tang up or
down as necessary. Adjust both floats equally. CAUTION - Do not scratch or damage tang.
Float Bumper Spring
With bowl held in inverted position, measure clearance between float bumper spring and float drop
tang. If clearance is not with specifications, bend tang until proper clearance is obtained.
Secondary Throttle Stop Screw
Back off secondary throttle stop screw until secondary throttle plate seats in bore. Turn screw in until it
touches tab on secondary throttle lever; then turn in an additional ¼ turn.
5200 Exploded View
General Instructions
• Take lots of pictures as you take your carburetor apart. This will give you a reference of where
things go.
• Using a cookie sheet with folded up sides will help keep parts from falling on the floor.
• We suggest not removing the throttle shaft, valves, or choke shaft unless they are corroded, or
very dirty. These parts can be easily damaged and are difficult to re-assemble.
• Instruction sheets that come with our carburetor kits are somewhat generic. It may not match
your parts exactly.
• Do NOT use WD-40 around your carburetor. It reacts with ethanol.
• Using Silicon Spray Lubricant on the gaskets will help with sticking in case you need to take the
carburetor apart again.
• Be careful after taking the top of the carburetor off. Turning the carburetor upside down may
cause parts to fall out and you won’t know where they were.
• Screws and jets that are frozen can often be removed after heating outside the screw or jet.
• Stuck check balls can be removed by heating the outside of where the check ball resides and
tapping the carburetor on the work bench.
• Do not discard any parts until complete done. You may have to refer for size, or matching.
Cleaning:
• Clean with carburetor dis-assembled.
• Soak all parts except rubber & electrical in Simple Green for 2 hours. Aluminum parts will get
discolored if left longer.
• Wash parts with hot water if available to remove all chemicals.
• Blow out each passage way taking special notice of the smaller ones. Test each passage that air
goes through the entire passage.
• Blow out the idle mixture hole.
• Check any hole above the idle mixture hole (inside the bore). This is the idle discharge and often
becomes plugged.
• A tooth brush can facilitate cleaning parts.
• Soda blasting, then washing again will make the carburetor look good any will clean any minor
deposits.
• Any corrosion, or deposits that are hard to remove may indicate the passages are also corroded
and the carburetor should be replaced.
• If your engine has been sitting for 6 months or more, the gas has probably turned, and the gas
tank will need to be cleaned as well as the fuel lines. Flushing new gas through the tank will not
be enough.
Assembly:
• Do NOT apply any gasket sealant on any of the gaskets. Gas will break sealant part and the
particles will clog the small passages.
• Test your float.
o Brass floats should be immersed into hot water. As the air inside expands any leak will
be noticeable with air bubbles.
o Plastic, or Nitrophyl floats should be weighed. The weight is in grams. Check our
technical pages for any weight specification that we may have.
• Most gaskets will fit as expected, but you may have to trim some, especially under the venturis.
• Your kit may include multiple gaskets in order to get better coverage out of the kit. Use the one
that fits the best. Look for any opening the gasket may leave allowing air into the carburetor.
Some holes may be casting holes that don’t lead to anything and do not have to be covered.
• Mounting gaskets for multiple bore carburetors do not have to have matching holes. Example a
four-barrel gasket can be open in the middle instead of 4 holes as long as the carburetor has
some kind of passage between bores. The passage is between primary, or secondary, not both.
• When adjusting the float be careful not to put any pressure on the needle. The viton tip is easily
damaged.
• Most idle mixture screws can be cleaned using a soft wire wheel. Inspect for any scoring, which
would indicate over tightening. Screw with scoring should be replaced.
Accelerator Pumps:
• On leather cups run your finger around the inside of the cup to break any manufacturer sealant.
• Apply 2 drops of oil to cups (leather, or rubber) before inserting into carburetor. Do not soak the
cup in oil. The swelling of the cup needs to happen inside the carburetor. Allow the 2 drops of oil
and the gas to do its job naturally.
• Twist the pump as you are inserting to help keep the cup from curling or folding over.
• Test your accelerator pump circuit before putting the top of the carburetor back on. Our
technical pages have instructions on how to do this for most carburetor types.
• Pump wells are usually slight tapered, and the pump will not seal until it gets towards the
bottom.
