93004

Version 1

93004

SLÄNDA (DRAGONFLY) – TOP

Knit a light and translucent top to add a feminine touch to your wardrobe. The top is knitted with 2
strands of Fin Mohair Silke held together.

YARN GARMENT LENGTH Approx. 21¼ (21¾, 22, 22½,

Fin Mohair Silke (72% mohair, 28% silk, 230 yd/210 22¾, 23¼, 23¾, 24, 24½) in / 54 (55, 56, 57, 58, 59,
m / 25 g) 60, 61, 62) cm
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS YARN AMOUNTS AND COLORS
Viol (100% cotton, 729 yd/667 m / 100 g) Approx. 75 (100, 100, 100, 125, 125, 150, 150, 175) g
GAUGE Approx. 14 sts x 22 rows/rnds in stockinette (color 31532, Golden Honey)
on gauge-size needles with 2 strands of Fin Mohair NEEDLES U. S. size 8 / 5 mm: 24 and 32 in / 60 and
Silke held together = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. 80 cm circulars; U. S. 7 / 4.5 mm: 2 dpn
Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if NOTIONS 2 stitch markers
necessary. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY Experienced
SIZES XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL) DESIGNER Stine Hoelgaard Johansen
GARMENT CHEST Approx. 33½ (35½, 37½, 39½,
43¼, 47¼, 51¼, 55¼, 59) in / 85 (90, 95, 100, 110,
120, 130, 140, 150) cm

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES Knit around in stockinette until body measures

See Tips and Shortcuts on the last page for common approx. 13 (13½, 13½, 13¾, 13¾, 14¼, 14¼, 14½,
abbreviations and other useful information. 14½) in / 33 (34, 34, 35, 35, 36, 36, 37, 37) cm, and,
on the last rnd, end 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts before
TIP When changing to a new skein of yarn, it’s end of rnd. On the next rnd, BO 12 (12, 12, 14, 14,
recommended that you splice the ends together 14, 14, 14, 14) sts at each side for underarms, as
because overlapped ends can be visible in the follows: BO last 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts of rnd just
translucent knitting. worked, + first 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts of new rnd.
Knit until 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts rem before side
BODY marker, BO next 12 (12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14) sts
Holding 2 strands of Fin Mohair Silke together, with and then knit to end of rnd = 48 (51, 55, 56, 63, 70,
gauge-size long circular, CO 240 (252, 268, 280, 308, 77, 84, 91) sts rem each for front and back.
336, 364, 392, 420) sts. Make sure that the cast-on is
not too tight! Join, being careful not to twist cast-on Now begin working front and back separately, back
row; pm for beginning of round. Knit around in and forth. The yarn sits at the back.
stockinette until ruffle measures 3½ (3½, 3¾, 3¾, 4,
4, 4⅛, 4⅛, 4¼) in / 9 (9, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 10, 10.5, 10.5, BACK
11) cm. Turn and purl across back.

On the next rnd, k2tog around = 120 (126, 134, 140, On the next RS row, shape armhole by decreasing 1
154, 168, 182, 196, 210) sts rem. Pm at beginning of st at each side (all sizes) as follows: K2, sl 1, k1, psso,
rnd and halfway around for side = 60 (63, 67, 70, 77, knit until 4 sts rem, k2tog, k2. Turn and purl across
84, 91, 98, 105) sts each for front and back. back.

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Work these 2 rows a total of 5 times (all sizes) = 10 On next RS row, decrease to shape neck: Knit until 4
sts decreased = 34 (37, 41, 42, 49, 56, 63, 70, 77) sts sts rem, k2tog, k2. Turn and purl across.
rem.
Work these 2 rows 3 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) more times
Now work straight up without decreasing until body = 7 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10) sts rem. Continue without
measures 21¼ (21¾, 22, 22½, 22¾, 23¼, 23¾, 24, decreasing until front is same total length as back.
24½) in / 54 (55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62) cm, as BO rem sts.
measured down center back. BO, making sure bind-
off is not too tight. I-CORD EDGING FOR ARMHOLES AND
NECKBAND
FRONT Seam shoulders joining 9 (9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12)
Attach yarn at front so first row will be on WS. sts at each side of back to front shoulders, so 20 (23,
27, 28, 33, 40, 45, 52, 57) bound-off sts rem across
On the next 2 rows, shape armhole by BO 2 sts (all back neck.
sizes) at each side.
ARMHOLE EDGINGS
On the next RS row, shape armhole by decreasing 1 Holding 2 strands of Fin Mohair Silke together, with
st at each side (all sizes) as follows: K2, sl 1, k1, psso, one smaller size dpn, CO 4 sts. As an extension of
knit until 4 sts rem, k2tog, k2. Turn and purl across the 4 sts, pick up and knit 1 st at center of
back. underarm. Do not turn work but slide the 5 sts to
opposite end of needle. *Tighten yarn, k3, k2tog tbl,
Work these 2 rows a total of 5 times (all sizes) = 10 pick up and knit 1 st on armhole. Do not turn work
sts decreased = 34 (37, 41, 42, 49, 56, 63, 70, 77) sts but slide the 5 sts to opposite end of needle*; rep *-
rem. * all the way around armhole, with 1 st for every row
and 1 st for each st. BO the 4 rem sts and join I-cord
Now work straight up without decreasing until body
ends.
measures 18¼ (18½, 19, 19¼, 19¾, 19¾, 20, 20½,
21) in / 46 (47, 48, 49, 50, 50, 51, 52, 53) cm, as Make edging around opposite armhole the same
measured down center front. On next RS row, BO way.
the center 12 (13, 15, 16, 21, 28, 31, 38, 43) sts for
front and work each side separately = 11 (12, 13, 13, NECKBAND
14, 14, 16, 16, 17) sts rem for each side of front. Holding 2 strands of Fin Mohair Silke together, with
one smaller size dpn, CO 4 sts. As an extension of
Right front: the 4 sts, pick up and knit 1 st at right shoulder
Turn and purl across. seam. Do not turn work but slide the 5 sts to
On next RS row, decrease to shape neck: K2, sl 1, k1, opposite end of needle. *Tighten yarn, k3, k2tog tbl,
psso, knit to end of row. Turn and purl across. pick up and knit 1 st on neck. Do not turn work but
slide the 5 sts to opposite end of needle*; rep *-* all
Work these 2 rows 3 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) more times
the way around neck, with 1 st for every row and 1
= 7 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10) sts rem. Continue without
st for each st. BO the 4 rem sts and join I-cord ends.
decreasing until front is same total length as back.
BO rem sts. FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Dampen top,
Left front:
preferably from a spray bottle. Roll top in a towel to
Attach yarn on WS and purl across; turn work.
absorb excess water. Lay flat to dry, patted out to
finished measurements.

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Version 1

TIPS & SHORTCUTS

To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.

Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If your stitch count doesn’t
match the gauge given in the pattern, try again with larger or smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t
match that in the pattern, your item will not be the correct size or shape.

Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow the instructions.

Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic board or sticky note.

Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and shape of the garment. To
determine the right size, we recommend that you first measure your body. Then you can calculate the garment
size depending on how much ease you want the garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the
garment measurements.

Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the color strands around
each other on the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several
rows/rounds, make sure you do not stack the twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on
the right side.

Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from
time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two
rows from another skein.

ABBREVIATIONS
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BOR = beginning of row/round,
cc = contrasting color, col = color, cont = continue, dec = decrease, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front loop,
inc = increase, m = marker, mm = millimeters, mc = main color, patt = pattern, pm = place marker, rep = repeat,
rnd(s) = round/rounds, RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker, st(s) = stitches,
tog = together, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over

KNITTING
BO = bind off, cn = cable needle, CO = cast on, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, g st = garter stitch,
k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches together, kw = knitwise,
LH = left hand needle, p = purl (stitch), pw = purlwise, RH = right hand needle, ssk = slip, slip, knit,
St st = stockinette/stocking stitch, wyib = with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn in front

CROCHETING
ch = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, hdc = half double crochet,
htr = half treble crochet, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, tr = treble crochet, tr tr = triple treble crochet

DIFFICULTY
Beginner: Anyone with no experience knitting/crocheting. Easy techniques and clear explanations.

Adventurous Beginner: For a beginner ready to take the next step. Clear explanations so you can try some new
techniques.

Intermediate: Anyone who has knitted/crocheted for a while but who wants a challenge. More advanced
techniques and two steps occur at the same time.

Experienced: For experienced knitters/crocheters who have already tried many techniques and methods.
Advanced/uncommon techniques and several steps occur simultaneously.

© COPYRIGHT Nordanå Crafts AB. Reproduction and publication of materials and texts is not permitted without the consent of Nordanå Crafts AB.