Introduction to Redirects

Text and illustrations by Joe Harris

Technical advice and many corrections by
Scott Sharpe and Grant Cody
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CONTENTS

Introduction 3
The Redirect Challenge 4
1 Natural Redirects 5
1.1 Relocating your prussik 6
2 Simple Artificial Redirects (Fixed) 7
2.1 Basic Redirect 7
2.2 Basic Pulley Redirect 8
3 Simple Artificial Redirects (Removable/Retrievable) 9
3.1 Basic Removable Redirect 9
3.2 Basic Removable Pulley Redirect 10
3.3 Basic Removable Redirect Variations 11
4 Complex Artificial Redirects 12
4.1 Double-Revolver Redirect 13
4.2 Positioned-Tail Redirect 14
5 Additional Line Redirects 15
6 The M-Rig; V-Rig and Variations 17
6 Obsolete Redirects 18
6.1 Ropeman Redirect 19
6.2 Zipper (Daisy Chain) Redirect 20
7 Footnote – Uses for a Footlocking Prussik 22

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INTRODUCTION

Maintaining a good rope angle is one of the basics of tree climbing. When your anchor point is
directly above you, movement is easy and your climbing line offers good support. As you climb
level with your anchor point, the rope offers less and less support, and you become increasingly at
risk of a dangerous pendulum swing. Redirects are a way of temporarily providing a climber
with a better rope angle, without removing and re-setting the main anchor point.

This document is an attempt to summarise and illustrate some of the more common re-directs. A
brief mention of natural redirects is included, but the main focus is on artificial redirects.

Redirects are illustrated and briefly descibed, then scored out of a possible five in four different
categories, eg:

2.1 BASIC REMOVABLE REDIRECT

Removable; Retrievable Describes key features of the redirect

Friction ☻☻☻ (More points = less friction)
Simplicity ☻☻☻☺ (More points = easier to set up and use)
Gear ☻☻☻☺ (More points = less dedicated gear required)
Retrieval ☻☻ (More points = easier to remove; less likely to get stuck)

These ratings are the result of personal opinion and are by no means definitive. Different
combinations of equipment and ropes may well be giving other climbers very different results
with the same redirect. The sole aim of this scoring system is to provide climbers who are
unfamiliar with a particular redirect the opportunity to consider some of its strengths and
weaknesses before deciding to invest in yet more equipment!

It is also important to consider that each of the redirects is perfect – for a particular use. Many of
them require nothing more than a footlocking prussik and an extra karabiner, which is something
to consider when thinking about the gear that stays on your harness throughout every climb.

The list of redirects given here is not at all exhaustive. Several redirects were not included due to
being needlessly complex or just a slight variation on one of those listed already. If you use a
good redirect that you think should be included in this list, then PLEASE GET IN TOUCH!
Sharing your good idea is a great way to help fellow climbers throughout the industry, and you
would of course get all the credit. In addition, redirects submitted before the Victorian Tree
Climbing Competition on Oct 23rd 2010 will be eligible for inclusion in the Redirect Challenge
(see next page).

Email redirect plans to joe.elsewhere@gmail.com or codza@bigpond.com

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TAKE THE REDIRECT CHALLENGE!

The VTIO is offering a one-off prize of A$300 for the best new redirect plan submitted by
Saturday October 23rd 2010. The winning redirect must not already be included in this list,
but may be a variation thereof. The ideal redirect would be: (1) retrievable without
disconnecting from the system; (2) quick and easy to set up; (3) usable with a minimum of
dedicated gear; and (4) as close to friction-free as possible.

To enter, email a plan of your redirect to Hjoe.elsewhere@gmail.comH or

Hcodza@bigpond.com

What’s this all about?

Redirects are a fantastic tool in climbing, allowing a proficient climber to dramatically improve
rope angle for a particular part of the tree, and thereby allowing quick, smooth access to the ends
of otherwise challenging limbs. The only reason that they are not in common use it that the
existing redirects (described on the following pages) are generally too time consuming to install
or too bulky to carry, and almost all require the disconnection of the climbing system in order to
restore the main anchor point.

The Ropeman Redirect (pg 12) offered great friction control and was retrievable without
disconnecting the climbing system. As the only thing that passed through a fork whilst removing
the redirect was the tail of the strop, it was almost impossible to get it stuck. A major drawback
was the necessity to use a separate retrieval line or to connect the redirect to the tail of the
climbing rope. Unfortunately the lack of a stopper knot meant the redirect was vulnerable to
being disconnected by an unexpected pull on the retrieval line, and this redirect is no longer
considered acceptable for use in climbing.

What are we looking for?

The ideal redirect would be quick and easy to set up, and require a minimum of dedicated gear.
Aim to fit the whole system into a chalk bag, or something similar. It should be as close to
friction-free as possible. Most importantly, the redirect should be quickly retrievable without
having to disconnect from the climbing system. Not requiring a separate retrieval line or the use
of the tail would be a plus, but is not essential; if a retrieval line is used it must not be possible to
accidentally disconnect the redirect by pulling on the line. Finally, removing the redirect should
be nice and smooth – no karabiners getting stuck in tight forks or lines getting tangled.

Locked Retrieval Line Rule

If a retrieval line is used it must not be possible to disconnect the redirect by an
accidental pull on the line.
Even redirects which require a great deal of force to disconnect when under load will
not be accepted if the retrieval line can be actuated by an accidental pull.

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1 NATURAL REDIRECTS

Using a natural redirect is nothing more complicated than climbing through a fork or crotch
which happens to be over the part of the tree where you wish to go. It requires absolutely no
equipment, and of course there is no difficulty with removing your high-point when you wish to
leave the tree. So why use anything else?

There are a few good reasons for the use of artificial re-directs. The first, and probably most
important, is friction. Redirecting the climbing line over even a smooth eucalypt fork greatly
increases the friction that the climber must deal with, particularly if the two sides of the line cross
or tangle. Another problem with natural redirects is that, unless you work against your line, you
have to pass the entire tail of your line through the fork ahead of you. Most artificial redirects can
be set on the line above you, so that you gain the redirect without having to reposition the tail of
your line.

If you don’t mind working against your line, it is possible to relocate the prussik (see next page)
in order to pass the climbing line back out of the fork without losing the original anchor point, but
this requires forward planning and enough spare line! Otherwise you have to climb all the way
back out of the fork to regain your original anchor point. Many artificial redirects are retrievable
(it is possible to remove your rope from the redirect without losing the main anchor point) with
much less difficulty.

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1.1 RELOCATING THE PRUSSIK

This is often described as redirecting the prussik, which is confusing as it is quite a

different technique from the other redirects described here. Relocating the prussik is a
technique for sending the climbing system back through a natural redirect or over other
architecture in the tree to regain an original rope line.

In the pictures below, the climber (not shown) has used a natural redirect. He is now
relocating his prussik in order to regain his original rope line without having to climb back
through the fork.

1: Pull on spliced
side of line. Line
will feed through
anchor point; 3: Pull on tail to return
2: Continue to pull on system to climber
prussik system
spliced side until system
will travel up.
rises above fork
Caution
This is a very powerful technique giving a great range of
options beyond the use illustrated here. With sufficient
forward-planning, this can be used to send the climbing
system to a new section of the tree without having to climb
back over intervening branches. As with any technique that
involves the disconnection of the climbing system,
however, there is the risk that something will become
caught and the climber will be left without his climbing
line. Plan ahead for this possibility!

4: Pull on tail until loop In addition, climbers using a micro-pulley to tend their
of slack leaves fork and prussiks, or any similar equipment or technique, should be
system returns to climber sure to secure the karabiner to a marlinspike hitch in the
prussik side of the line before beginning this process.
Failure to do this may result in the prussik travelling up the
line away from you rather than returning to your hands!

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2 SIMPLE ARTIFICIAL REDIRECTS (FIXED)

Artificial redirects can be quick to install, are (generally) much smoother running than natural
redirects and can be installed without climbing through tight forks or passing line over branches.
The two redirects shown in this section are fixed; in other words you have to climb back to them
in order to remove them. On the plus side, neither requires much in the way of gear, and they are
both very quick and easy to install.

2.1 BASIC REDIRECT

Fixed
Friction ☻☻
Simplicity ☻☻☻☻☻
Gear ☻☻☻☻
Retrieval N/A

As can be seen from the picture to the right, this

redirect requires very little equipment. It is quick
to set up, quick to remove and extremely reliable.

Ingredients: Improve this by choking

the strop around the
Short strop (footlocking prussik, tape sling, prussik loop etc) branch so it doesn’t
1 Karabiner wander up and down

Advantages Disadvantages
Simple Fixed
Quick to set and remove Lot of friction
Requires almost no gear

Different Coloured Line?

Please note that any karabiner
Many of the illustrations show two different coloured
used as part of a life-support
lines passing through the redirect. These are
system (this includes redirects!)
intended to represent the same climbing line; the
must require a minimum of two
greener coloured part of the line will always be the
discreet actions to prepare the
spliced end of the climbing line.
gate for opening
For some redirects it is very important that the
redirect is set with the correct sides of the line
passing through the redirect as illustrated.

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2.2 BASIC PULLEY REDIRECT

Fixed
Friction ☻☻☻☻☻
Simplicity ☻☻☻☻
Gear ☻☻☻
Retrieval N/A

Just the same as the first fixed redirect, but the

addition of a double pulley makes a huge
reduction in the amount of friction experienced.

Ingredients: Double pulley

Short strop (footlocking prussik, tape sling, prussik loop etc)

1 Karabiner
1 Double Pulley

Advantages Disadvantages
Simple Fixed
Fairly quick to set and remove
Requires little gear
Great friction control

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3 SIMPLE ARTIFICIAL REDIRECTS (REMOVABLE/RETRIEVABLE)

The redirects shown in this section are designed to come out without the climber having to return
to them. They are simple because they require only fairly basic gear which you might have on
your harness anyway. Removable means they pull out automatically once you have disconnected
from your rope and are pulling out your main anchor point; retrievable means that it is possible
(with additional setup) to remove the redirect whilst keeping your main anchor point.

3.1 BASIC REMOVABLE REDIRECT

Removable, retrievable
Friction ☻☻☻
Simplicity ☻☻☻☺
Gear ☻☻☻☺
Retrieval ☻☻
(‘biner gets caught in fork)

Optional retrieval clip

and line. Use either
light line or tail of rope.

Another quick-to-set, simple and fairly effective redirect. It is

retrievable with the addition of the clip shown above, which is WARNING
When set like this on small, smooth
fastened above the redirect to the spliced (green) side of your line. branches, particularly when the rope makes
As you pull out the spliced end of your line, it passes through the an acute angle at the redirect, an abrupt pull
karabiner and frees the redirect to flip out of the crotch and slide on either side of the line can cause this
down your line to you. The splice catches on the clip and can be redirect to flip around the crotch, pulling a
loop of line across the branch and around the
pulled back to you, restoring your main anchor point. The main crotch. On small branches wrap strop
problem is that the removal requires a karabiner to pass around branch to reduce chance of this
through the crotch, which can get stuck. occurring. (See redirects below)

Ingredients:

Short strop (footlocking prussik, tape sling, etc)

2 x Karabiner
Optional retrieval clip, optional light retrieval line

Advantages Disadvantages
Simple Moderate friction
Removable Lines can separate, redirect can flip around branch
Fairly quick to set and remove Removal requires ‘biner to pass through crotch
Requires little gear

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3.2 BASIC REMOVABLE PULLEY REDIRECT Strop wrapped around branch to

minimise risk of flipping
Removable, retrievable
Friction ☻☻☻ ☻
Simplicity ☻☻☻
Gear ☻☻☻
Retrieval ☻☻
(Revolver gets caught in fork)

Optional retrieval clip

and line. Use either
light line or tail of rope.

Single pulley or
DMM Revolver second DMM
Revolver

Almost as quick to set as the most basic of artificial redirects, but with nice smooth rope-
running and the option of removability or retrievability. As with the previous redirect, the
main problem is that removal requires the DMM Revolver to pass through the crotch, which
can become stuck.

Ingredients:

Short strop (footlocking prussik, tape sling, prussik loop etc)

1 x DMM Revolver
1 x pulley and karabiner, or second DMM Revolver
Optional retrieval clip, optional light retrieval line

Advantages Disadvantages
Fairly simple Removal requires ‘biner to pass through crotch
Removable , Retrievable Lines can seperate
Fairly quick to set and remove Sometimes wraps slip and hitch
Not too much friction.

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3.3 BASIC REMOVABLE REDIRECT VARIATIONS

Optional retrieval clip

and line. Use either
light line or tail of rope.

In this variation, note that both lines pass through

the top karabiner, but only the spliced side of the
line passes through the DMM Revolver at the
bottom. This variation holds the two sides of the
line together, and prevents separation or the
problem of the redirect flipping around the branch,
at the cost of increased friction.
DMM Revolver

Retrieval clip and line.

Use either light line or The variation on the left uses a double pulley
tail of rope. to capture both sides of the line at the top
instead of a karabiner. This greatly reduces
the friction, but unless your splice will pass
through the double pulley, this variation is not
removable without the addition of the
retrieval clip and line.
Double pulley

DMM Revolver

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4 COMPLEX ARTIFICIAL REDIRECTS

The redirects in this section are described as complex because they either require fairly dedicated
gear, or are time-consuming and complicated to install. On the plus side, all offer fantastic
smoothness and retrievability.

Deciding whether to invest in and start to carry and use a custom-spliced redirect can be difficult,
particularly if you need to arrange for someone else to splice it for you. In general, the double-
revolver redirect shown on the next page either equals or far out-performs any of the other
redirects shown so far, in almost every category (except the amount of gear required). It comes
into its own in a situation where you will be working for some time in an area of the tree where
the only perfect redirect is a really tight, hard-to-get-to fork, but you will want to continue work
in another section of the tree later. The double-revolver redirect is easy to set, safe and secure,
and reliable to either retrieve or remove along with your main anchor point before returning to the
top of the tree using the access line.

Whether or not it is worth investing in and carrying this custom-spliced redirect will depend on
how often you find yourself in the situation above. Many climbers never use redirects (Tom
Greenwood recently claimed to have only used artificial redirects six times in his entire sixty-five
year climbing career) but it is surprising how often they can make a difficult climb much easier
and faster once you have them on your harness and are familiar with their use.

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4.1 DOUBLE REVOLVER REDIRECT Spliced eye containing cable to retain shape

Removable, retrievable Optional retrieval clip

Friction ☻☻☻ ☻
Simplicity ☻☻☻☺
Gear ☻☻
Retrieval ☻☻☻☺

A great redirect whose only real drawback is

the necessity of having a large piece of
custom-spliced equipment on hand when you
want to use it. It is quick and easy to install, Eye to attach retrieval
and works well as a removable redirect if you line
don’t attach the optional retrieval clip. It is
this flexibility (to be used as either a
removable or a retrievable redirect) along DMM Revolvers attached with tape slings.
with the smoothness of climbing on two
pulleys that makes it such a success.

To use as a retrievable redirect, simply attach the clip to the spliced side of your rope
above the redirect, and then attach your tail or a separate line to the eye at the bottom of
the redirect.

Ingredients:

Custom-spliced redirect
2 x DMM Revolvers + tape slings or prussiks
Optional retrieval clip, optional light retrieval line

Advantages
Minimal friction
Retrievable, Removable
Rarely gets stuck
Simple to use
Lines don’t separate or wander

Disadvantages
Requires disconnection to retrieve
Dedicated, custom-spliced piece of gear

Credit is due…
This excellent redirect was Retrieval clip and line.
designed by Grant Cody

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4.2 POSITIONED-TAIL REDIRECT Tape sling on tail of

climbing line
Retrievable, Remote-Set
ART
Friction ☻☻☻☻☻ ‘Positioner’
Simplicity ☻
Gear ☻☻
Retrieval ☻☻

Based on the old ‘Ropeman’ redirect (see

next section), but instead of being set on a
separate strop, it is set on the tail of the
climbing line. This makes it potentially
extremely time-consuming to set and
retrieve.

The main advantages are that it is very low

friction, it does not require the disconnection
of the climbing system in order to be Double pulley
retrieved, and it can be set remotely, by
throwing the tail of the climbing line over
the target crotch, building the redirect, and
then pulling on the tail to slide the redirect
into position. Retrieval clip and line.

Ingredients:
Double pulley & karabiner, + Tape sling or similar
ART ‘Positioner’
Retrieval clip and light retrieval line
Running out of
line here….
Advantages
Minimal friction
Retrievable
Retrievable without disconnecting
Rarely gets stuck
Adjustable and can be set remotely

Disadvantages
Not removable without access to retrieval line Make the redirect considerably
Extremely gear-heavy and complex safer by tying a ‘daisy chain’ in
Time-consuming to install the climbing line below the
ropeman, which will ‘lock’ the
Although technically legal, this redirect could still expose retrieval line until the hitches
the climber to a fall in situations where there is a lot of are freed by pulling on the tail
slack between the climbing system and the redirect of the climbing line

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5 ADDITIONAL LINE REDIRECTS

Whilst not redirects in the traditional sense, it is possible to redirect your climbing line using a
double pulley attached to the splice of a separate line, which is then thrown over the crotch where
you wish to redirect, drawn into position and tied off (similar to the positioned tail redirect on
pg. 13, but using a separated line instead of the tail of the climber’s rope. The only real
advantage of this approach is that the redirect can be set remotely, without the climber having to
go anywhere near the redirect point.

Another possibility which avoids the use of a redirect is the use of a

separate line which passes through the desired redirect point before the
climber’s pulley is attached.

The picture on the right illustrates this technique. The climber wishes to
work in the smaller of the two trees. A line is set in the larger neighbour,
which runs through a fork on a limb overhanging the tree to be worked in
before passing over a sturdy anchor point on the main trunk. The climber’s
line is attached to a pulley on the end of the set line, and the whole system
is then hauled into position.

Although the use given here is fairly specific,

setups like this which attach a climbing system
to a separate (usually static) line are a Pulley
powerful and versatile technique. For
coverage in greater detail, please see the
relevant sections in the VTIO document,
Single Rope Technique, available from the
VTIO website.

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(ADDITIONAL LINE REDIRECTS, CONTINUED)

A further option given by the technique of attaching a climbing system to a separate line is shown
in the picture below. The climber is exploiting the angle formed between two anchor points to
climb safely out along a branch.

In this instance, the setup shown is considerably better than the use of either of the two upper
forks by itself. In addition, it is superior in terms of both the force generated on the tree and the
friction experienced by the climber than the option of setting in the left-hand fork and redirecting
in the right hand fork.

Setups like this which use an understanding of force vectors to improve climbing safety and
efficiency are very powerful tools, but require a thorough knowledge and familiarity to use well.
Climbers unfamiliar with the use of vector forces in climbing and rigging may be interested in the
VTIO introductory document, Working the Angles, available on the VTIO website.

Warning
Whilst this is a powerful technique
to access the particular branch
along which the climber is
heading, it becomes extremely
weak if used to continue to climb
through the rest of the tree.

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6 THE M-RIG, V RIG AND VARIATIONS

A brief mention of these techniques has been included in a document on redirects because they
can be used to fulfil a similar function, and because many climbers in the industry are not aware
of how powerful a technique they can be.

The V-Rig and M-rig (setups pictured below using DMM ‘Hitch Climber’ pulley) are ways of
smoothly ‘double-crotching’, or using two separate high-points. The M-rig in particular is very
quick to set up and can allow smooth and safe movement along an otherwise tricky branch… in
some ways just like a redirect.

Using the M-Rig

Setups like this which exploit the
enormous versatility of the hitch-climber
system are extremely strong techniques for
movement in the canopy. Interested
climbers should check out Hthe hitch-
climbers guide to the universeH, available
on the Treemagineers website and
elsewhere.

Illustration by Mark Bridge Force on high points

equivalent to 500kg!

20m
Climbers should however be aware that very large
forces can be generated whilst double-crotching, 1m
specifically when the climber traverses from one
crotch to another whilst level with the anchor points.
In the unlikely (and not to scale) illustration below, a
100kg apprentice has been sent to try and traverse
from tree to tree. At the precise mid-point of his
traverse, he is 10 metres from either tree, and only 1
metre below his high-points.
100kg
Although it is inaccurate to discuss forces in terms
of kilograms, suffice to say that the force Force Vectors
generated on each high point is the equivalent of Climbers interested in knowing why
a 500kg sideways pull. the forces generated in this instance
are so high, and in learning how to
calculate force vectors, should check
out the VTIO introductory document,
HWorking The AnglesH.

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7 OBSOLETE REDIRECTS

The redirects in this section are described as obsolete because they are no longer acceptable for
use in ISA-format climbing competitions. But does this mean that you can’t use them at work?

According to the VTIO climbing guidelines, “The VTIO recognizes the importance of the
industry-wide forum on equipment and equipment-usage that is offered by the International Tree-
Climbing Championships (ITCC), and formally recognizes the decisions made in that forum as
representing an agreed standard set by the industry as a whole.”

In other words, you can’t use them at work, or at least we think you ought not to. The reason is
that the redirects in this section have a vulnerability mentioned earlier in reference to the
Ropeman Redirect: an accidental pull on the tail of the climbing line or on the separate pull-out
line can cause the redirect to open, particularly if this pull is applied whilst the redirect is
momentarily not under load.

It is not unusual to hear climbers claim that particularities of their application or the unique
awareness with which they climb allow them to safely use equipment or techniques which would
be dangerous for the rest of the industry. It is true that every tree is as different as every climber,
and (to quote the VTIO climbing guidelines again): “The Victorian Tree Industry Organisation
(VTIO) recognises that although working in trees is an inherently dangerous activity,
comprehensive prescriptive regulation of best practice is unfeasible as the unique challenges
posed by each tree mean that no single universal approach can be successfully prescribed. In
addition, the differing skill sets and experience of each individual climber allow for a number of
different valid approaches to each tree.”

In the case of redirects, the three given in this section have the great strength of being able to
retrieve them without disconnecting from your system. This makes them in one way much safer
than the other retrievable redirects previously shown. So, particularly given the paragraph above,
why are we saying that you shouldn’t use them? If highly skilled and aware climbers are using
these redirects in safe environments, then it won’t be too long before all sorts of climbers are
using them all over the place. And soon after that someone will swing a branch in further than
they expected, tangle it in their retrieval line, disconnect their redirect and fall into space.

Instead of this scenario, the VTIO would like to encourage the highly skilled and aware climbers
to work on developing a convenient, compact redirect that is not vulnerable to accidental
disconnection, and does not require the disconnection of the climbing line to retrieve.

Locked Retrieval Line Rule

No redirect will be considered acceptable for use in climbing if it is possible to
disconnect the redirect with an accidental pull of the retrieval line

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7.1 ROPEMAN REDIRECT Double pulley

Retrievable
Friction ☻☻☻☻☻
Simplicity ☻☻
Gear ☻☻
Retrieval ☻☻☻☻
The Ropeman redirect is no longer considered Wild Country Ropeman
acceptable for use in climbing. The lack of a stopper or Kong ‘Duck’
knot on the strop passing around the crotch means that
an inadvertent tug on the retrieval line whilst the redirect
was not under load could cause the Ropeman to slide off
the line, exposing the climber to a potentially dangerous
fall. The enormous advantage of this redirect was that it Retrieval clip and line.
was retrievable without having to disconnect from the
climbing system.

Please see discussion of the merits of this system on

WARNING
page 4. This redirect is no longer considered
Ingredients:
acceptable for use in climbing

Short strop (footlocking prussik, tape sling, prussik loop etc)

Double pulley & karabiner
Wild Country ‘Ropeman’ or Kong ‘Duck’.
Retrieval clip, optional light retrieval line or tail of rope

Advantages Disadvantages
Minimal friction No longer allowed
Retrievable Not removable without access to retrieval line
Retrievable without disconnecting Fairly gear-heavy and complex
Rarely gets stuck

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4/21 Eugene Terrace,
Ringwood 3134

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7.2 ZIPPER (DAISY CHAIN) REDIRECT

‘Daisy Chain’
Retrievable of hitches
Friction ☻☻☻☻☻
Simplicity ☻☻☻
Gear ☻☻☻
Retrieval ☻☻☻☻

A simple and effective retrievable redirect

whose only disadvantage was the need to tie
a series of hitches when setting it up.

Could also be installed using the tail of the

climbing line, or set as shown using the tail
of the climbing line in lieu of the retrieval
line.

Double pulley Retrieval clip and line.

WARNING
This redirect is no longer considered
acceptable for use in climbing

Ingredients:

Short strop as pictured to right or tail of rope

Double pulley & karabiner
Retrieval clip, optional light retrieval line or tail of rope

Advantages Disadvantages
Minimal friction No longer allowed
Retrievable Tying hitches a bit time-consuming
Retrievable without disconnecting Not removable without access to retrieval line
Simple Hard to install with any tension in climbing line

Note: It is possible to make this redirect acceptable by a number of means. One easy
technique is to build the redirect as described above with a separate strop (pictured), and
then pass the tail or a bight of the tail of the climbing line through the final loop of the
daisy chain. This method ensures that the retrieval line cannot actuate the redirect until
the climber has prepared the redirect for removal by pulling the tail of the climbing line
out of the daisy chain. Similar to the ‘positioned tail’ redirect on page 14, this technique
is time consuming and complex to install, and requires access to two separate lines in
order to retrieve.

Victorian Tree Industry Organisation Page 20 6/27/2010

 The Victorian Tree Industry Organisation
4/21 Eugene Terrace,
Ringwood 3134

vtio.org.au

7.2 DOUBLE DAISY-CHAIN REDIRECT

Removable, retrievable
Friction ☻☻☻
Simplicity ☺
Gear ☻☻☻☻
Retrieval ☻☻☻☺

Karabiner or ‘biner with double pulley

Doubled line toward high point Double daisy-chain

Tail of climbing line,

to stopper knot
Tail of climbing
line, to prussik

Doubled line toward

climber
WARNING
This redirect is no longer considered
acceptable for use in climbing

A difficult-to-draw redirect introduced to Australia by legendary competition climber Bernd

Strasser. Built on a bight of the tail of the climbing line; requires alternating pulls on either
end of the line away from the redirect in order to disconnect. As such, this redirect would
pass the ‘Locked Retrieval Line Rule’. However, in a situation where the climber was
suspended in space below the redirect (particularly if the rope is redirected at an acute angle),
and a sustained pull was placed on the stopper-knot end of the climbing line, the loops of the
daisy chain could sequentially fail until the redirect disconnected.

Advantages Disadvantages
Minimal friction No longer allowed
Retrievable Setup complicated and time-consuming
Retrievable without disconnecting Not removable without access to retrieval line
Almost no gear Installation relies on correct estimation of
bight size

Victorian Tree Industry Organisation Page 21 6/27/2010

 The Victorian Tree Industry Organisation
4/21 Eugene Terrace,
Ringwood 3134

vtio.org.au

8 FOOTNOTE – USES FOR A FOOTLOCK PRUSSIK

After discussing all of this specific gear, it may be reassuring to learn that a high proportion of it
can be built with very little equipment. Although the double-revolver redirect is significantly
better in most categories than any of improvised redirects that can be made from the footlock
prussik, it does mean carrying more gear.

Check out the setup pictured. A dyneema tape-sling has been used as a prussik to connect a
double pulley to a footlock prussik.

This simple setup will allow you to create an adjustable fixed redirect.

Attach a DMM Revolver to one end of the footlock prussik to allow several different types of
removable redirect.

Clip a retrieval line or the tail of your rope to the other end or to the tape sling (see page 11) for a
retrievable redirect.

You can even build a redirect which is retrievable without disconnection, using a bight of your
climbing line and a separate retrieval line. For details of this trick, see the text box at the base of
page 20.
The same setup can be used to build an in-line anchor, an adjustable cambium saver (with DMM
Revolver) or to actuate an injured climber’s prussik in a rescue. The great thing about this setup
is that you will probably have at least some of it on your harness already: just throw in the tape
sling and double pulley and you’re ready to go.

Victorian Tree Industry Organisation Page 22 6/27/2010