Environment, Development and Sustainability

https://doi.org/10.1007/s10668-024-05793-x

REVIEW

Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current

and future research direction using thematic evaluation,
PRISMA, and TCCM frameworks

Furquan Uddin1 · Md Wasim Raza1 · Anwar Rasheed1

Received: 25 September 2023 / Accepted: 28 November 2024

© The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer Nature B.V. 2025

Abstract
The growing concern for sustainability among individuals and businesses can be attrib-
uted to the exploitation of resources and the emergence of global warming as significant
challenges. In this context, clothing industries pollute the environment in the name of fast
fashion brands, and there is growing concern among people for future generations. Thus,
this study examines the current literature to identify the significant antecedents pertain-
ing to buying sustainable fashion items. The review used the preferred reporting items for
systematic reviews and meta-analyses (PRISMA) guidelines to methodically assess the lit-
erature, including 52 empirical studies retrieved from the Scopus database pertaining to
the behaviours of Asian individuals towards sustainable fashion. The use of theories such
as the theory of planned behaviour (TPB), the theory of reasoned action (TRA), and the
theory of consumption value (TCV) has been shown to be prevalent in research conducted
in Asia. The study suggests some consumer behaviour theories to assess consumer deci-
sion-making for sustainable fashion. Moreover, a thematic analysis of sustainable fashion
variables sheds light on the progress made in the domain of sustainable fashion literature,
highlighting areas that have been overlooked, such as artificial intelligence-powered web-
sites and online marketplaces, which call for further research in the future. Consequently,
this literature analysis offers insightful information to manufacturers, retailers, brand man-
agers and policymakers about how Asian consumers behave regarding sustainable fashion.
It uses the theory, context, characteristics and methodology (TCCM) framework to provide
recommendations for future directions.

Keywords Sustainable fashion · Asia · Thematic evaluation · PRISMA · TCCM

* Md Wasim Raza
raza.9038@gmail.com; wasim.mba.rs@aliah.ac.in
Furquan Uddin
furquanbhu@gmail.com
Anwar Rasheed
anwarrasheed.alig@gmail.com
1
Department of Management and Business Administration, Aliah University, Kolkata 700160, India

Vol.:(0123456789)
 F. Uddin et al.

1 Introduction

Resources are being overused and consumed at an increasing rate, and problems with
global warming and environmental pollution have caused people to re-evaluate their con-
sumption patterns. People are shifting from unconventional consumption patterns to tra-
ditional ones (Jaiswal & Kant, 2018). Consumer behaviour tends to change across the dif-
ferent product categories as they prefer green products in case of food choices whereas
for fashion products, their views are different. Consumers need to be more aware that the
textile industry has harmed the environment in the name of fast fashion. Fast fashion, also
referred to as "throwaway" fashion, emerged in response to developments in the market
over the preceding three decades, including the decline of mass manufacturing, the emer-
gence of fashion seasons, and the reorganisation of production processes (Biana, 2020;
Thatta & Polisetty, 2022). Fast fashion brands are characterised by their ability to provide
products to the market more quickly and affordably while maintaining flexibility in trends
and quality (Bhardwaj & Fairhurst, 2010). However, in recent times, customers’ demand
for ethical products motivates businesses to use sustainable practices in their operations
(Kumar, 2017). Many top fashion labels have begun to advocate for sustainable practices to
reduce global resource consumption (Fung et al., 2020). For example, the sporting goods
giant Decathlon reversed its name in a marketing effort. The Decathlon is spelt "nolhta-
ceD" when written backwards, and the company hopes that this unique marketing strategy
will inspire customers to engage in reverse shopping (Ani, 2022).
Sustainable fashion (SF), a form of slow fashion, is usually used interchangeably with
“eco-fashion”, “ethical fashion”, and “green fashion” (Carey & Cervellon, 2014). Sustain-
able fashion reduces pollution and prevents the depletion of the planet’s finite resources.
According to Henninger et al. (2016) and Pookulangara and Shephard (2013), slow fashion
is the concept founded upon the notion of prioritising environmental sustainability prin-
ciples, which include the enhancement of working conditions and the mitigation of eco-
logical damage. There have been terms like “reverse shopping”, “circular fashion”, “sec-
ond-hand clothing” (SHC), “ethical fashion”, “slow fashion”, “eco-fashion”, and “green
fashion”, all of which mean sustainability in fashion. The slow fashion revolution has
emerged in response to the growing environmental and social awareness of sustainability
issues (Sener et al., 2019). Customers are frequently willing to purchase ethical fashion
products, according to certain studies (Choi et al., 2020; Jin Gam, 2011), but other research
has revealed that consumers occasionally hold mistrust towards ethical fashion companies
(Joergens, 2006). Many consumers harbour concerns about being deceived when consider-
ing the purchase of products that make ethical claims. Consequently, the success of ethical
products is widely regarded as dependent on consumer trust (Du, 2015). The consumer
mistrust is mainly due to greenwashing by the brands (Sun & Shi, 2022). The concept
of greenwashing is the tactic by brands to claim sustainability through marketing tools
to improve brand image and not expand sustainability efforts into business processes or
products in reality (Adamkiewicz et al., 2022). The inadequate transparency in disclosing
detailed information from sourcing to production of products raises doubts in the minds
of consumers regarding ethical claims. However, brands are making efforts. For example,
the H & M group committed to 100 per cent circular and renewable resource usage in
their production by 2040. The brand will fully implement and adopt recycled or sustainable
materials for all its fashion products by 2030 (H & M, 2018).
The sustainable fashion industry is projected to reach $524.8 billion by 2025 (Tyagi,
2024). Besides, the market for second-hand clothing, which is a segment in sustainable
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…

fashion, alone accounts for 10 per cent of global fashion sales (Butler, 2024). The signifi-
cance of the Asian continent in the sustainable fashion sector stems from its burgeoning
number of millennials and members of Generation Z. According to Petro (2021), Forbes
asserts that the COVID-19 pandemic has engendered a swing in the shopping behaviour
of the younger cohort in Asia, rendering them more environmentally concerned consumers
who exhibit a greater propensity to allocate more financial resources towards sustainable
fashion products. The pandemic has compelled consumers in Asia to prioritise sustainabil-
ity and health, which were previously considered luxury (Das et al., 2022). Examining the
variables that influence SF through the prism of Asian behaviour or habits may provide a
unique perspective. The cultural dimension of Asian countries is significant, as the major-
ity of them adhere to the collectivist attitude rather than the individualist approach preva-
lent in Western countries (Green et al., 2005; Hofstede, 2011; Wang & Chen, 2010). In
the coming years, Asian consumers will constitute half of the global consumption ($10
trillion) (Das et al., 2022). The growth of the consumer class in the Asian consumer market
is anticipated to be greater than that of the majority of western countries (Buchholz, 2021).
According to McKinsey & Company (2021), approximately 75 per cent of consumers in
Asia are willing to experiment with new brands if they perceive value, which includes sus-
tainability. In addition to the consumption level, Asia markets are crucial due to the evolv-
ing preferences and behaviours that result from demographic, social, and economic chal-
lenges (Berg et al., 2023). Numerous studies have shown that Asians behave differently
than those from other continents (Brandão & Costa, 2021; Dawar & Parker, 1994; Lee,
2009; Zhang et al., 2019). Therefore, it becomes indispensable to confine the study to Asia
only. In Asia, the publication trend for factors affecting sustainable fashion (SF) is rising
(Fig. 1). It exhibits the growth of existing publications in the Scopus database from 2012
to 2024 on the factors influencing SF behaviour among Asian consumers. A surge in the
number of publications has been observed between 2018 and 2023, with a transition from a
limited number of articles published between 2012 and 2018 to a proliferation of research
papers. The increase in research on the factors influencing SF in Asia demonstrates that a
shift from fast to socially responsible fashion is occurring (Amed et al., 2023; Khandual

Fig. 1  Publication Trend of Articles related to consumers’ sustainable fashion behaviour in Asia. Source:
Compiled by authors
 F. Uddin et al.

& Pradhan, 2019). The COVID-19 pandemic has also enhanced awareness of ecological
issues, and a greater emphasis on protecting the environment is reflected in their consump-
tion (Chwialkowska et al., 2020; Jian et al., 2020; Ng et al., 2020).

1.1 Research gap

The review tries to overcome the geographical research gap through a scientific review,
aiming to provide a comprehensive overview of SF in Asia. Taking into account the con-
sumption level of this region, understanding the drivers influencing SF in Asia holds the
potential to address issues of overconsumption. Several researchers contributed unique
insights through their reviews on SF. Notably, Abbate et al. (2024) focused on micro
and macro perspectives in the textile, apparel and fashion business. The literature on SF
reviewed by Mukendi et al. (2020) and Dabas and Whang (2022) were based on themes
and periods. Vladimirova et al. (2024) reviewed studies considering social media’s influ-
ence on SF. A review of the supply chain aspect of SF by Koksal et al. (2018) provides a
different point of view. Among these few reviews in the context of SF, hardly any review
has touched upon consumer behaviour in depth. Hence, making way for another gap in
the literature, this review provides the consumer decision-making factors and serves as the
literary source for researchers or scholars seeking to explore the concept of SF in the Asian
context. Further, the review provides a thematic cluster on the research trend for SF in
Asia. Most importantly, this review attempts to fill the theoretical gap by analysing theories
and recommending a conceptual framework to understand SF behaviour. Finally, by pro-
viding future research directions applying a theory, context, characteristics and methodol-
ogy (TCCM) framework and practical recommendations, this study addresses the gaps in
previous reviews and offers insights for ethical fashion brands, retailers, and policymakers
based on consumer behaviour. Thus, the present study is segregated into eight sections:
introduction, methodology, results, proposed conceptual framework, discussion & future
research direction, conclusion, limitations and practical recommendations.

1.2 Research questions

The present study makes a humble attempt to address the following research questions:

1. What are the clusters of concepts in consumers’ sustainable fashion literature in Asia?
2. What are the antecedents/ theories used in research influencing sustainable fashion in
Asia?
3. What are the upcoming domains of research in the field of sustainable fashion in Asia?

2 Methodology

This study applies the preferred reporting items for systematic reviews and meta-analyses
(PRISMA) methodology to synthesise SF literature on consumer behaviour from manage-
ment and the social science disciplines (Fig. 2). PRISMA provides a procedure that can
be systematically documented and guarantees a strict review plan, providing methodologi-
cal precision, transparency, and the ability to easily replicate the research (Tranfield et al.,
2003), and reputable social science researchers have also used it for their research reviews
(Du Plessis, 2022; Kanaveedu & Kalapurackal, 2022; Lim & Rasul, 2022; Rasheed et al.,
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…

Fig. 2  Articles selection flowchart based on the PRISMA guidelines. Source: Moher et al. (2009)
 F. Uddin et al.

Table 1  Criteria for including and excluding articles. Source: Authors

Filter Inclusion Exclusion

Subject “Business”, “Management & Accounting”, “Arts Other subjects

& Humanities”, “Multidisciplinary”, “Decision
Science”, “Environmental Science”, “Economics”,
“Econometrics & Finance”, “Psychology”, “Social
Sciences”
Countries Asian Non-Asian
Language English Non-English
Research Paper type Empirical and conference papers Literature Review
Papers (SLR and
Bibliometric)

2023; Solanki & Thomas, 2023). The study follows the literature review framework of
Kraus et al. (2022) and is adapted from the study by Jain et al. (2023), Raza et al., (2023a,
2023b), and Kamila and Jasrotia (2023). This review examines themes, theories and factors
of SF related to Asian consumers.
The Scopus database has a greater number of journals indexed than the Web of Science
(WOS) (Pattnaik et al., 2020). Therefore, relying on Scopus can fetch more literature from
a broader subject area and categories (Paul & Criado, 2020). Besides, Scopus meets the
quality criteria for academic research papers (Donthu et al., 2021; Paul et al., 2021; Van-
hala et al., 2020). The search terms utilised for extraction were: "Sustainable fashion" OR
"Circular fashion" OR "Second-hand cloth*" OR "Ethical fashion" OR "Slow fashion" OR
"Eco-fashion" OR "Green fashion" AND "factor*" OR "Antecedent*" OR "Variable*" OR
"Motive*" OR "Intention*" OR "evidence*."
There were 375 papers available using the above search phrase. Further literature in the
management and social science discipline (Table 1) and studies relating to factors impact-
ing SF were considered in the first stage. The material and engineering science papers
related to SF were excluded as per the study’s objective to review literature related to
consumer behaviour. The outcome revealed 240 studies, after which only papers written
in English were considered for additional filtration. The language filter reduced the docu-
ment to 236 documents. Papers with Asian ties were chosen as this study discusses the
issues influencing SF in Asian nations, which brought the total number of papers down
to 90. Further, the exclusion of four review papers resulted in a corpus of 86 articles. The
authors had access to all prominent journals and publishing houses. The articles that were
not accessible were from lesser-known journals or publishing houses whose subscription
authors didn’t have. Only 76 of them had complete paper access. However, 76 SF papers
content were screened for this study, eliminating irrelevant papers focusing on textile
sciences and macroeconomic factors. Only papers that specifically addressed consumer
behaviour and SF were chosen. The corpus for literature review and thematic analysis
left was 52. Therefore, the number of papers (52) on a topic shows that the field is mature
enough for a review and that the papers make a significant addition to the field (Paul &
Criado, 2020).
At first, the thematic evaluation is conducted utilising VOSviewer to contribute sub-
stantially to future studies. The VOSviewer tool retrieves themes related to variables influ-
encing SF in the Asian context through the bibliographic coupling of documents feature.
This approach would facilitate a comprehensive understanding of existing literature while
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…

focusing on the research gap within SF, thereby providing valuable insights for future
scholarly investigations (Ellili, 2024; Pandey et al., 2023a, 2023b; Rejeb et al., 2023). Fur-
ther, the reviewing theories and antecedents have been presented to add to the knowledge
by proposing a conceptual framework. At last, based on the findings of the review, future
research direction is proposed using the TCCM framework.

3 Results

3.1 Bibliometric characteristics

The research on consumer behaviour related to SF in Asian countries and publication in

prominent journals is summarized in Table 2, demonstrating 52 publications from 13 Asian
nations. According to research productivity by country, China (13), South Korea (10), and
Malaysia (6) account for around 60 percent of studies. According to this pattern of studies,
these three nations are home to most consumer-focused research on SF in the Asian econo-
mies. Besides, Turkey, India, and Indonesia represent about 23 percent, with four studies
each. The “Sustainability” Journal and the “Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management”
emerged as the primary sources of study within sustainable fashion literature in the Asian
context, with 11 and 7 researches, respectively. Moreover, three studies were published in
the “Journal of Global Fashion Marketing” and the “International Journal of Consumer
Studies”. “Sage Open” and “Journal of Business Research” have published two significant
publications.
Table 3 presents the theories employed in most investigations. Theory of Planned
Behaviour (TPB) has been extensively applied in sustainable consumption research world-
wide (Hsu et al., 2017; Kim et al., 2013; Nekmahmud et al., 2022; Raza et al., 2023a,
2023b; Tanner& Kast, 2003; Zhang et al., 2019). It is further evident from Table 3 that the
TPB is the most prevalent guiding framework for SF studies in Asian economies, too. Eight
studies employed TPB and product-related variables to measure consumers’ SF behav-
iour. Four studies employed the theory of consumption values (TCV) as their fundamental
framework. Some of the studies (6) did not concentrate on any guiding theory, while 18
studies used unique theoretical frameworks. Table 4 reveals the prevalent research methods
for Asian consumers in the context of SF. A little more than 50 percent of the studies used
structural equation modelling, while other studies employed factor analysis and regression
to determine the consumer factors influencing SF.

3.2 Thematic evaluation

Bibliographic coupling is a method that assesses the significance of cited articles by con-
sidering the most crucial documents that are interconnected (Donthu et al., 2021). It func-
tions by utilising article citations to communicate the topic’s proven expertise (Glänzel &
Czerwon, 1996; Yanhui et al., 2022). Table 5 illustrates the six significant theme clusters
in the SF literature, identified through an analysis of documents using the bibliographic
coupling option in VOSviewer software. The clusters are formed as nodes. The content of
the literature in each cluster is then evaluated and analysed. The author comes up with a
tokenised name that reflects the theme of that cluster based on the focus of the literature.
Table 2  Publications included for the review. Source: Compiled by authors
S. No Author Title Journal Nation

1 Suzianti et al. (2024) “Strategic Design to Increase Consumer Purchase “Evergreen” Indonesia
Intentions for Sustainable Fashion Products
Using Theory of Planned Behavior”
2 Han et al. (2024) “Does consumer knowledge about sustainable- “Asia Pacific Journal of Marketing and Logistics” China & Korea
fashion impact intention-to-buy?”
3 Zhang et al. (2023) “Profiling Consumers: Examination of Chinese “Sustainability” China
Gen Z Consumers’ Sustainable Fashion Con-
sumption”
4 Cayaban et al. (2023) “The Influence of Social Media and Sustainability “Sustainability” Phillippines
Advocacy on the Purchase Intention of Filipino
Consumers in Fast Fashion”
5 Kaur et al. (2023) “Role of justification of unethical behaviour in “Journal of Consumer Marketing” India
sustainable fashion consumption among Indian
consumers: a parallel mediation approach”
6 Okur et al. (2023) “Analyzing the impact of Covid-19 on sustainable “Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: Turkey
fashion consumption with a model based on An International Journal”
consumer value perceptions”
7 Zahid et al. (2023) “Exploring mindful consumption, ego involve- “Current Psychology” China
ment, and social norms influencing second-hand
clothing purchase”
8 Syahrivar et al. (2023) “No longer look down: investigating second-hand “International Review on Public and Nonprofit Indonesia
clothing purchase in Indonesia” Marketing”
9 Bakış and Kitapçı (2023) “Why do consumers purchase green clothing? “Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: Turkey
Investigating symbolic meanings beyond social An International Journal”
status and the role of consumer mindset”
10 Aprianingsih et al. (2022) “Slow fashion purchase intention drivers: an “Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: Indonesia
Indonesian study” An International Journal”
11 Sener et al. (2022) “The effects of perceived value, environmental “Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: Turkey
concern and attitude on recycled fashion con- An International Journal”
sumption”
F. Uddin et al.
Table 2  (continued)
S. No Author Title Journal Nation

12 Choi and Lee (2022) “Moderated mediation of anticipatory hope “Journal of Korean Society of Clothing & Tex- South Korea
between green fashion advertising appeals and tiles”
word of mouth-the role of perceived consumer
effectiveness”
13 Xu et al. (2022) “Exploring Sustainable Fashion Consumption “Sustainability” China
Behavior in the Post-Pandemic Era: Changes
in the Antecedents of Second-Hand Clothing-
Sharing in China”
14 Lin and Chen (2022) “Factors That Influence Consumers’ Sustainable “Sustainability” Taiwan
Apparel Purchase Intention: The Moderating
Effect of Generational Cohorts”
15 Kumar et al. (2022) “Pro-environmental purchase intention towards “Journal of Global Fashion Marketing” India
eco-friendly apparel: Augmenting the theory
of planned behavior with perceived consumer
effectiveness and environmental concern”
16 Liu et al. (2022) “Slow Fashion Is Positively Linked to Consumers’ “Sustainability” China
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…

Well-Being: Evidence from an Online Question-

naire Study in China”
17 Koay et al. (2022) “An integrated model of consumers’ intention to “International Journal of Retail & Distribution Malaysia
buy second-hand clothing” Management”
18 Hassan et al. (2022) “Sustainable Fashion Consumption: Advocating “Sustainability” Malaysia
Philanthropic and Economic Motives in Clothing
Disposal Behaviour”
19 Xue et al. (2022) “Consumption of traditional handicraft fashion: “Cleaner and Responsible Consumption” China
Motivations, intentions and behaviours of Chi-
nese consumers”
20 Nagano (2021) “Applying Storytelling Approach to Analyze “Sustainability” Japan
Kojima Jeans District Based on Slow Fashion
Perspectives”
Table 2  (continued)
S. No Author Title Journal Nation

21 Kim et al. (2021) “Consumers’ Value and Risk Perceptions of Circu- “Sustainability” South Korea
lar Fashion: Comparison between Secondhand,
Upcycled, and Recycled Clothing”
22 Nawaz et al. (2021) “Mindful Consumption, Ego-Involvement, and “Sage Open” China
Social Norms Impact on Buying SHC:Role of
Platform Trust and Impulsive Buying Tendency”
23 Ramkumar et al. (2021) “The cross-cultural effects of brand status and “Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmen- South Korea
social facilitation on enhancing consumer per- tal Management”
ception toward circular fashion services”
24 Guan and Noor (2021) “Online sustainable fashion brands: Millennials’ “Journal of Media and Communication Malaysia
attitude, purchase intention and behaviour” Research(SEARCH)”
25 Zhang and Dong (2021) “How virtual social capital affects behavioral “Conservation and Recycling” China
intention of sustainable clothing consumption
pattern in developing economies? A case study
of China”
26 Shaharuddin and Jalil (2021) “Parents’ Determinants Buying Intent on Environ- “International Journal of Business and Society” Malaysia
mentally Friendly Children’sClothing”
27 Shrivastava et al. (2021) “Sustainability through online renting clothing: “Journal of Cleaner Production” India
Circular fashion fueled by instagram micro-
celebrities”
28 Liu et al. (2021) “The importance of knowledge and trust for ethi- “Asia Pacific Journal of Marketing and Logistics” China
cal fashion consumption”
29 Zheng and Chen (2020) “Affecting Factors of Consumers’ Purchase Deci- “IEEE International Conference on Indus- China
sion on Sustainable FashionClothing Products” trial Engineering and Engineering
Management(IEEM)”
30 Herjanto and Heridiano (2020) “The effect of acculturation attitude on second “International Journal of Business and Society” Indonesia
hand clothes purchase”
F. Uddin et al.
Table 2  (continued)
S. No Author Title Journal Nation

31 Tran (2020) “Supply chain management in Vietnamese fashion “International Journal of Supply Chain Manage- Vietnam
vlogger attributes vs product consumption: A ment”
double conceptual framework”
32 Kim and Oh (2020) “Effects of Perceived Sustainability Level of “Sustainability” South Korea
Sportswear Product on Purchase Intention:
Exploring the Roles of Perceived Skepticism and
Perceived Brand Reputation”
33 Munir (2020) “Eco-Fashion Adoption in the UAE: Under- “Fashion Practice” UAE
standing Consumer Barriers and Motivational
Factors”
34 Salem and Alanadoly (2020) “Personality traits and social media as drivers of “Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: Malaysia
word-of-mouth towards sustainable fashion” An International Journal”
35 Kim et al. (2020) “How social capital impacts the purchase intention “Journal of Business Research” South Korea
of sustainable fashion products”
36 Sener et al. (2019) “Sustainable dressing: Consumers’ Value percep- “Business Strategy and the Environment” Kazakhstan
tions towards slow fashion”
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…

37 Munjal and Kashyap (2019) “Effect of demographic variables on knowledge of “International Journal of Scientific & Technology India
college girls of Jaipur city towards eco fashion” Research”
38 Ceylan, 2019) “Knowledge, attitude and behavior of consumers “Textile & Leather Review” Turkey
towards sustainability and ecological fashion”
39 Na et al. (2019) “Sub-Network Structure and Information Diffusion “Sustainability” South Korea
Behaviors in a Sustainable Fashion Sharing
Economy Platform”
40 Wang et al. (2019) “Sustainable fashion index model and its implica- “Journal of Business Research” South Korea
tion”
41 Razzaq et al. (2018) “The Impact of Utilitarian and Hedonistic Shop- “Global Business Review” Pakistan
ping Values on Sustainable Fashion Consump-
tion: The Moderating Role of Religiosity”
Table 2  (continued)
S. No Author Title Journal Nation

42 Liang and Xu (2018) “Second-hand clothing consumption: A genera- “International Journal of Consumer Studies” China
tional cohort analysis of the Chinese market”
43 Chuang and Chiu (2017) “Encouraging knowledge sharing among green “International Conference on Green Informatics” China
fashion communities”
44 Min Kong and Ko (2017) “Why do consumers choose sustainable fashion? “Journal of Global Fashion Marketing” China, Japan &South Korea
A cross-cultural study of South Korean, Chinese,
and Japanese consumers”
45 Wei and Jung (2017) “Understanding Chinese Consumers’ Intention “Sustainability” China
to Purchase Sustainable Fashion Products: The
Moderating Role of Face-Saving Orientation”
46 Song and Ko (2017) “Perceptions, attitudes, and behaviors toward “International Journal of Consumer Studies” South Korea
sustainable fashion: Application of Q and Q-R
methodologies”
47 Hashmi et al. (2016) “Impact of personal values on ethical fashion “Pakistan Journal of psychological Research” Pakistan
purchase intention: Mediating effect of product
involvement”
48 Kong et al. (2016) “Understanding fashion consumers’ attitude and “Journal of Global Fashion Marketing” South Korea
behavioral intention toward sustainable fashion
products: Focus on sustainable knowledge
sources and knowledge types”
49 Wai Yee et al. (2016) “Sustainability and Philanthropic Awareness “Sage Open” Malaysia
in Clothing Disposal BehaviorAmong Young
Malaysian Consumers”
50 Xu et al. (2014) “Second-hand clothing consumption: a cross-cul- “International Journal of Consumer Studies” China
tural comparison between American and Chinese
young consumers”
51 Chan and Wong (2012) “The consumption side of sustainable fashion “Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: Hong-Kong, China
supply chain Understanding fashion consumer An International Journal”
eco-fashion consumption decision”
F. Uddin et al.
Table 2  (continued)
S. No Author Title Journal Nation
52 Shen et al. (2012) “The impact of ethical fashion on consumer pur- “Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: Hong-Kong, China
chase behavior” An International Journal”
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…
 F. Uddin et al.

Table 3  Research theories/ Research Theory/ Factors No. of Studies

factors used by the studies on
consumers’ sustainable fashion
UTAUT​ 2
behavior. Source: Compiled by
authors Theory of Planned Behaviour 10
Theory of Consumption Values 4
Theory of Reasoned Action 2
Product Related Attributes 7
Demographic factors 3
No guiding Theory 6
Other theories 18

Table 4  Research methods used Research Method No. of Studies

by the studies on Consumers’
sustainable fashion behavior.
Factor Analysis 11
Source: Compiled by authors
Correlation Analysis 3
Structural Equation Modelling 24
Regression 5
Case Study 4
Anova 3
Descriptive Study 3

The themes provide a summary of the research conducted so far and recommend the future
scope of studies in the discipline.
The first cluster comprises 10 publications pertaining to the literature on SF (Table 5).
Kong et al. (2016) and Shrivastava et al. (2021) exhibit the highest number of citations,
with 183 and 176 citations, respectively. The main emphasis of the first cluster network is
on the synergy of philanthropic activities, second-hand clothing, and online platforms, as
studies in this cluster have focused on the philanthropic behaviour of people, which gives
rise to the second-hand clothing market and behaviour. Also, the role of the online platform
in predicting SF intention has been discussed. Asian countries are becoming more vibrant
in the fashion context. Organisations or communities have facilitated the reuse of second-
hand clothing with projects like “Zerowaste Indonesia”, “Fashion Pulpit Singapore”, “the
Swap Project Malaysia”, and the “Your Clothes, Our Planet” campaign in Hong Kong.
With these projects, organisations or communities want to enhance the span of garments’
life through recycling and innovative design (Djuwita & Pratiwie, 2023; Knott, 2024).
Six research studies in the second cluster addressed the psychological characteristics and
perception” concerning SF items. This cluster found that individual traits and perceived val-
ues are essential for SF adoption in Asia. Salem and Alanadoly. (2020) and Kumar et al.
(2022) obtained the highest number of citations, with 89 and 60, respectively. The second
cluster highlights the importance of individuals’ traits, including personal values and atti-
tudes, which act as the base for decision-making. Perceived values are the social and cultural
factors fostering consumers’ belief that their actions will create a difference in the society and
are valued by their social circle. (Agag et al., 2024; Ghvanidze et al., 2016). Based on biblio-
graphic coupling, the third cluster consisted of a total of two papers. The primary emphasis
Table 5  Thematic evaluation of the studies on factors affecting consumers’ sustainable fashion behavior. Source: VOSviewer
Thematic clusters Author Title Citation

Cluster-1 Hassan et al. (2022) “Sustainable Fashion Consumption: Advocating Philanthropic and Economic Motives in 40
Synergy of Philanthropic, Secondhand Clothing Disposal Behaviour”
clothing and online platform Kim et al. (2021) “Consumers’ Value and Risk Perceptions of Circular Fashion: Comparison between 156
Secondhand, Upcycled, and Recycled Clothing”
Kim and Oh (2020) “Effects of Perceived Sustainability Level of Sportswear Product on Purchase Intention: 40
Exploring the Roles of Perceived Skepticism and Perceived Brand Reputation”
Kong et al. (2016) “Understanding fashion consumers’ attitude and behavioral intention toward sustainable 183
fashion products: Focus on sustainable knowledge sources and knowledge types”
Lin and Chen (2022) “Factors That Influence Consumers’ Sustainable Apparel Purchase Intention: The Moder- 30
ating Effect of Generational Cohorts”
Min Kong and Ko (2017) “Why do consumers choose sustainable fashion? A cross-cultural study of South Korean, 94
Chinese, and Japanese consumers”
Shrivastava et al. (2021) “Sustainability through online renting clothing: Circular fashion fueled by instagram 176
micro-celebrities”
Song and Ko (2017) “Perceptions, attitudes, and behaviors toward sustainable fashion: Application of Q and 71
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…

Q-R methodologies”
Wai et al. (2016) “Sustainability and Philanthropic Awareness in Clothing Disposal Behavior Among 82
Young Malaysian Consumers”
Xu et al. (2022) “Exploring Sustainable Fashion Consumption Behavior in the Post-Pandemic Era: 20
Changes in the Antecedents of Second-Hand Clothing-Sharing in China”
Table 5  (continued)
Thematic clusters Author Title Citation

Cluster- 2 Sener et al. (2022) “The effects of perceived value, environmental concern and attitude on recycled fashion 16
Psychological attributes and perception consumption”
Bakış and Kitapçı (2023) “Why do consumers purchase green clothing? Investigating symbolic meanings beyond 11
social status and the role of consumer mindset”
Hashmi et al. (2016) “Impact of personal values on ethical fashion purchase intention: Mediating effect of 8
product involvement”
Kumar et al. (2022) “Pro-environmental purchase intention towards eco-friendly apparel: Augmenting the 60
theory of planned behavior with perceived consumer effectiveness and environmental
concern”
Razzaq et al. (2018) “The Impact of Utilitarian and Hedonistic Shopping Values on Sustainable Fashion Con- 58
sumption: The Moderating Role of Religiosity”
Salem and Alanadoly (2020) “Personality traits and social media as drivers of word-of-mouth towards sustainable 89
fashion”
Cluster- 3 Liang and Xu (2018) “Second-hand clothing consumption: A generational cohort analysis of the Chinese 140
Value Paradigms in different context market”
Xu et al. (2014) “Second-hand clothing consumption: a cross-cultural comparison between American and 277
Chinese young consumers”
Cluster- 4 Liu et al. (2021) “The importance of knowledge and trust for ethical fashion consumption” 62
Environment Knowledge & Concern Shen et al. (2012) “The impact of ethical fashion on consumer purchase behavior” 426
Wang et al. (2019) “Sustainable fashion index model and its implication” 98
Cluster-5 Nawaz et al. (2021) “Mindful Consumption, Ego-Involvement, and Social Norms Impact on Buying SHC: 13
Ego and Social norms Role of Platform Trust and Impulsive Buying Tendency”
Zahid et al. (2023) “Exploring mindful consumption, ego involvement, and social norms influencing 27
second‑hand clothing purchase”
F. Uddin et al.
Table 5  (continued)
Thematic clusters Author Title Citation

Cluster-6 Koay et al. (2022) “An integrated model of consumers’ intention to buy second-hand clothing” 45
Product Attributes & normative paradigm
Munir (2020) “Eco-Fashion Adoption in the UAE: Understanding Consumer Barriers and Motivational 26
Factors”
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…
 F. Uddin et al.

of the research within this cluster was on the value paradigms across various cohorts. Xu
et al. (2014) emerged as the most significant study inside this cluster, with a total of 277 cita-
tions so far. The third cluster is based on the importance of cohorts in SF purchases. Accord-
ing to the EY et al. (2023) report, Gen Z and Gen Alpha are much more aware of environ-
mental practices than millennials, Gen X, and baby boomers. This awareness level signifies
the importance of cohorts and other variables in influencing ethical behaviour.
The fourth cluster contains studies on environmental knowledge and concern, which
leads to more sustainable behaviour. The most influential study of this cluster is by Shen
et al. (2012). Environmental knowledge and concern proved to be influencing factors not
only for SF products but also for the travelling and beauty industries (Bakır, 2022; Vania
& Ruslim, 2023). Two research publications were in each of the fifth and sixth clusters.
The papers in the fifth cluster specifically examine the factors of ego and social norms. The
fifth cluster implies the concept of self-image or self-values. Consumers who relate their
values to the concept of sustainability will indulge in SF behaviour (Burton & Eike, 2023).
Moreover, the sixth cluster includes studies on product attributes and normative para-
digm variables in predicting sustainable fashion behaviour and intention. The cluster stream-
lines the importance of the characteristics of the SF products which attract consumers. As
per the survey by Chung et al. (2019), SF purchases are more product-specific than brand.
Also, when purchasing SF products, consumers give importance to the quality, materials,
and style quotient. Based on these concept clusters, the section fulfils the first research ques-
tion of the review and will further add to predict future research direction.

3.3 Theoretical underpinnings

As per the reviews’ findings, suggestions for the existing attitude-behaviour gap in sustain-
able fashion (SF) behaviour could be advanced. The second research question of the study
will be addressed in this section. It is crucial to note that results from earlier research may
not apply to consumers in other nations with vastly different cultures and consumer behav-
iour, such as Asians. This underscores the need to recognise the diversity in consumer atti-
tudes and beliefs regarding marketing activities (Dawar & Parker, 1994). Furthermore, the
review will help uncover the main causes behind SF’s uptake throughout Asia.

3.3.1 Theory of planned behaviour

The theory of planned behaviour (TPB) states that one is more likely to be involved in
the intended behaviour if they are more inclined to do so (Ajzen, 1991). It is the theoreti-
cal framework by which consumer behaviour in any situation or context can be predicted
(Razi-ur-Rahim et al., 2024). The TPB has been the most popular paradigm for analys-
ing Asian people’s sustainable fashion behaviour (Table 3). The population’s attitudes and
knowledge about sustainability are significant but did not translate into positive actions
(Ceylan, 2019). Conversely, a new study conducted by Kumar et al. (2022) observed that
certain factors, such as attitudes towards environment-friendly clothing, “perceived behav-
ioural control”, “moral standards”, and “perceived consumer effectiveness”, had a substan-
tial positive effect on purchase intention. This finding is in tune with an earlier investiga-
tion conducted by Guan and Noor (2021), wherein it observed that “subjective norms”,
“perceived behavioural control” (PBC), and “ethical beliefs” exert an influence on individ-
uals’ attitudes toward online sustainable fashion brands. Consumers’ personal beliefs and
favourable dispositions towards environment-friendly fashion, along with the influence of
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…

significant individuals in their lives and their convictions on their capacity to choose sus-
tainable alternatives, all contribute to their inclination to buy SF products. This is clearly
demonstrated in the studies by Cayaban et al. (2023) and Suzianti et al. (2024), which found
that “attitudes”, “subjective norms”, and “perceived behavioural” control had a favourable
impact on purchase intentions for SF goods. PBC plays a critical role in influencing SF
consumption. According to Xue et al. (2022), PBC strongly influences purchase intention,
highlighting the importance of how the perception of ease and difficulty in sustainable con-
sumption can influence a person’s choice. However, Liu et al. (2021) argue that PBC does
not predict purchase intention, suggesting that other forces may have a significant effect.
While PBC is one aspect, economic consideration also plays an important role. Economic
rationality, for instance, often justifies an individual’s purchase of unsustainable products
(Kaur et al., 2023). Additional research (Wai et al., 2016) shows that economic and envi-
ronmental concerns indirectly affect garment disposal attitudes. They do not directly affect
attitudes toward sustainable fashion. Building on these considerations, it is also imperative
to comprehend the role of knowledge in SF adoption. Effectiveness knowledge and social
knowledge are drivers for forming attitudes, which later turn into actual purchases (Kong
et al., 2016). Bakis and Kitapci’s study (2023) further delve into the more nuanced factors
within TPB, signalling theory, and symbolic consumption research, all of which come into
play when consumers engage with green products socially. It also examines the impact of
these symbolic meaning factors on attitude and purchase intention. The various symbolic
meanings attributed to green clothing, such as “representing status”, “environmentalism”,
“innovation”, and “fashion”, have a positive and indirect impact on consumers’ purchase
intentions through their attitudes. In summary, most of the factors discussed influence SF
behaviour. However, the role of PBC remains complex and multifaceted.

3.3.2 Unified theory of acceptance and use of technology (UTAUT) and social capital
theories

The consumer buying habits are also shifting in response to the rise of new tools like social
media (Wang, 2017). According to Shrivastava et al. (2021), the behavioural intention to
use online second-hand clothing rental platforms (OSCRP) is positively influenced by
UTAUT constructs such as “social influence”, “effort expectancy”, “performance expec-
tancy”, “attitude”, and source credibility theory constructs of “attractiveness” and “trust-
worthiness”. However, the study illustrates that the competence of an Instagram celebrity
has no direct bearing on a person’s inclination to use an online second-hand clothing rental
platform, whereas Xu et al. (2022) found that only social influence, one of the original
core variables of UTAUT, had any bearing on behavioural intention. In the epoch of social
media platforms, the influence of vloggers cannot be denied. One such study by Tran
(2020) validated that the expertise and attractiveness of the vlogger positively affect SF
product consumption. The role of social capital further compounds the influence of social
media on SF adoption. When refining brand messaging, marketers should carefully con-
sider managing social capital within social media, as highlighted by researchers Kim et al.
(2020) and Zhang and Dong (2021).

3.3.3 Theory of consumption value

Consumption values refer to the underlying motivations for choosing and using one prod-
uct over another (Sheth et al., 1991). Kim et al. (2021) and Koay et al. (2022) used the
 F. Uddin et al.

consumption value (TCV) theory to demonstrate the impact of factors on attitude and how
attitude affects the purchasing intention of Eco-friendly clothes. According to research
by Koay et al. (2022), emotional and environmental values favourably influence attitudes
towards SF, which in turn impacts intentions. However, attitudes are unaffected by social or
epistemic values. In contrast, Kim et al. (2021) found “environmental value”, “emotional
value”, “social value”, and “epistemic value” to be significant factors in shaping attitudes.
This understanding of factors is further complicated by the findings of Sener et al. (2022),
which state that “emotive value”, “social value”, “epistemic value”, and “environmental
concern” do not significantly impact consumer attitudes. Nevertheless, the study’s results
suggest that “environmental concern”, “affective value”, “epistemic value”, and “condi-
tional values” directly affect consumers’ intentions to purchase recycled fashion items
rather than exerting an indirect influence through attitudes. In this review, most studies
acknowledged that people need to be more knowledgeable and concerned about the SF
issue. Building on this, a study by Okur et al. (2023) observed that consumers who are
environmentally concerned (EC) are more probable to acquire environmental knowledge
(EK), which in turn influences perceived pricing value (PPV) and perceived social value
(PSV). The PPC and PSV influence consumers’ intentions to buy SF goods. However, the
intention to purchase was unaffected by the perceived emotional value (PEV).

3.3.4 Theory of interpersonal behaviour (TIB)

The theory of interpersonal behaviour, propounded by Harry Triandis in 1977, proposes

that action is influenced not only by logical decision-making but also by social and emo-
tional dimensions (Triandis, 1977). Hassan et al.’s (2022) research demonstrates that the
main determinants of SF are “personal norms”, “social norms”, and “environmental aware-
ness” as per the value belief norm theory. Therefore, SF consumption further generates
philanthropic and economic motivations for garment disposal, demonstrating a positive
and significant relationship with SF.

3.3.5 Stimulus‑organism‑response theory

Choi and Lee (2022) utilised the stimulus-organism-response (S–O–R) model as a frame-
work to investigate the potential of advertising appeals that emphasise the effectiveness
of green performance. The model helps us understand how consumers’ perceptions of the
environment (organism) are influenced by advertising stimuli and how these perceptions
lead to specific responses, such as word-of-mouth (WOM) dissemination. The advertising
appeals to consumers who have a high degree of anticipatory hope and perceived consumer
effectiveness. It not only creates interest but also fosters positive word-of-mouth. The find-
ings underscore the significant role of advertising as a key communication tool in promot-
ing the adoption of green fashion.

3.3.6 Acculturation theory

The theory explains how individuals adapt to a new culture or intercultural behav-
iour. The Herjanto and Heridiano (2020) study discusses acculturation, which refers
to cultural adaptation and accommodation. The proactive acculturation attitude posi-
tively affected second-hand clothing (SHC) purchasing behaviour, whereas the reactive
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…

acculturation attitude significantly and negatively affected SHC purchasing behaviour.

The proactive acculturation signifies that the people of Indonesia tend to accept the
global culture of SF and assimilate it into their native culture. The negative reactive
acculturation signifies that choosing trends from other cultures will not diminish their
own culture.

3.3.7 Other theories

One of the most critical factors at the base level that affect sustainable behaviour is
awareness. Due to the need for more information regarding ethical fashion, consumers
cannot convert their concerns into actual purchases (Shen et al., 2012). People with
an advanced level of knowledge about SF are more probable to purchase SF products,
while those with a lower level of knowledge will have a lower or no purchase inten-
tion (Han et al., 2024). Therefore, the low level of awareness or knowledge calls for
effective communication strategies. Social media and networks are essential tools for
facilitating messages regarding green fashion (Chuang & Chiu, 2017). According to
Ramkumar et al. (2021), the social facilitating message positively influenced Korean
consumers’ attitudes, which in turn impacted the purchase intention of circular fashion
services. However, the effectiveness of social messages also depends upon the con-
sumer’s mindfulness. The consciousness regarding the purchase is also very impor-
tant for sustainability; according to Zahid et al. (2023), “ego involvement” mediates
the association between mindfulness and the intention to purchase second-hand cloth-
ing. Mindfulness alone is insufficient to promote sustainability. Likewise, the study by
Nawaz et al. (2021) demonstrated the crucial influences of “mindful consumption”,
“ego involvement”, and “social norms” on purchasing second-hand clothing.
According to Min Kong and Ko’s (2017) findings, “environmental awareness”, “per-
ceived value”, and “perceived risk” are significant predictors of consumers’ intentions
to buy SF products. The study also draws on the insights of consumers similar to Liang
and Xu (2018), highlighting their concerns and perceived risks connected with second-
hand clothes, including contamination, transmission of diseases, connection to previ-
ous owners, and a diminished feeling of identity. Additionally, the findings of another
study mentioned that the cohort of generations adversely influenced the association
concerning ecological awareness and inclinations to buy environment-friendly apparel
(Lin & Chen, 2022).
Extraversion, openness, and agreeableness are the most important among the big
five personality traits that are effective in social media, affecting people’s eco-friendly
behaviour and environmental concerns (Salem & Alanadoly, 2020). However, SF
behaviour gets complicated when desire is central to human behaviour. Syahrivar et al.
(2023) and (Razzaq et al., 2018) study indicate that hedonism is detrimental to sustain-
able consumption and guilt has a favourable impact on purchase intention. However,
ecological concern harms purchase intent, specifically regarding second-hand clothes.
Despite these challenges, environmental psychological variables remain vital in deter-
mining behaviour toward SF and have been the subject of very few studies. “Envi-
ronmental”, “utilitarian”, and “hedonic values” influence attitudes toward slow-fashion
offerings, according to one such study by Aprianingsih et al. (2022). In addition, the
study by Hashmi et al. (2016) indicated that personal values significantly affect “prod-
uct involvement” and the intention to purchase ethical fashion. Additionally, “product
 F. Uddin et al.

involvement” partially mediates the association between “personal values” and the
intention to buy ethical fashion.

3.3.8 Product‑related attributes

Design, quality, and pricing are examples of traits that Keller (1993) argues are physical
aspects linked to a product’s features and usefulness. The product attribute has a con-
siderable role to play in offline and online shopping (Lee et al., 2017). Chan and Wong
(2012) indicate no connection between product-related attributes (PRA) and eco-fashion
consumption decisions (ECD). It may be because responders’ physical requirements for
utility and protection, emotional needs to express their personalities, and psychological
needs to establish their identity are less likely to stimulate their ECD. In contrast, Zheng
and Chen (2020) find that attributes of SF products favourably correlate with purchase
behaviour, and sustainable consumption awareness is favourably correlated with SF
product attributes. One of the basic requirements for triggering sustainable consumption
is the quality of green fashion products (Liu et al., 2022; Wang et al., 2019). It is evi-
denced as per study by Munir (2020) that the key drivers were brand, design, aesthetic
appeal, and celebrity endorsements. The environmentally concerned customers with
a penchant for fashion exhibit their individuality through their fashion choices. They
highly appreciate timeless design, superior quality, and adaptability and are prepared to
spend a higher price on exceptional-quality fashion clothes (Zhang et al., 2023). In addi-
tion to these factors, Sener et al. (2019) found that Price, quality, local products, and
availability were significant factors for SF. Concerning the value provided by a product,
the buying intention of Chinese buyers towards SF was shown to be impacted by two
factors: “perceived value” (green value and product value) and “face-saving attitude”
(Wei & Jung, 2017).

3.3.9 Demographic factors

There is a strong correlation between the respondent’s income, level of education, and
the number of children with their shopping behaviour for environment-friendly children’s
apparel. However, the parent’s gender is not significantly correlated. Price, quality, design,
colour, and health concerns are also the main determinants of parents’ purchasing of envi-
ronment-friendly children’s clothes. Still, the most challenging issues for parents are lack
of understanding or awareness and the availability of such clothing. Interestingly, education
plays a significant role in influencing parents purchasing behaviour (Shaharuddin & Jalil,
2021). However, the relation between demographic factors and knowledge remains com-
plex. The Munjal and Kashyap (2019) study state that there are no significant differences
in the knowledge of college girls based on age, monthly household income, the mother’s
occupation, the father’s and mother’s literacy levels, the number of siblings, the order of
the siblings, the type of family, or marital status. The only factor influencing respondents’
understanding of eco-friendly fashion is their father’s profession. Building upon the demo-
graphic-related factors, another study by Chan and Wong (2012) revealed that factors like
age, gender, income level, and educational background contribute to a minimal proportion
of the variability in eco-fashion Consumer Decisions (Chan & Wong, 2012).
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…

People with wavering intellects in South Korea have the lowest household incomes
and spend less on clothing, but a higher percentage of their total fashion spending goes
to sustainable clothing. Other sorts of sustainable consumers should be recognised, even
if wavering intellects may be the most approachable sustainable customers interested in
sustainability and sustainable consumption (Song & Ko, 2017).

4 Proposed conceptual framework

This research’s significant value addition is the proposition of a theoretical framework

through a comprehensive evaluation of literature on SF behaviour within the Asian set-
ting. Based on the most prevalent theory (TPB) in the SF literature, a conceptual struc-
ture has been proposed by integrating variables from those studies. The influence of
societal expectations and the desire to conform to those expectations make up subjective
norms. These subjective norms, along with attitude have been witnessed to affect the
purchase intention regarding SF behaviour and are included in the proposed framework
(Kumar et al., 2022; Xue et al., 2022; Liu et al., 2021). However, “perceived behav-
ioural control”, “ethical belief”, and “customer endorsement” variables were also found
effective in predicting purchase intention in Asian countries (Guan & Noor, 2021). The
perceived value, which consists of “hedonic value”, “environmental value”, “economic
value”, and “uniqueness value”, was evident in a study by Xu et al. (2014). The mod-
erating variable was taken from a study by Liang and Xu (2018). This comprehensive
framework (Fig. 3) has been proposed by integrating these factors that together impact
purchasing behaviour in eco-fashion or SF.

Fig. 3  Conceptual framework- Sustainable fashion behavior. Source: Developed by authors

 F. Uddin et al.

5 Discussion and future research directions

The discussion of future research direction adheres to the TCCM framework established
by Paul and Rosado-Serrano (2019), encompassing theory, context, characteristics, and
methods as detailed below. The third research question of this review study is addressed
by proposing future research domains for SF in Asia.

5.1 Theory

The literature review demonstrated that “TPB”, “TRA”, and “product-related vari-
ables” were frequently employed to investigate the motivators for buying environment-
friendly clothing. Nevertheless, the “UTAUT” and “TAM” models are widely believed
to provide an improved foundation for predicting behaviours associated with online
purchases. According to the theory, the factors determining purchase intent are “per-
formance expectations”, “effect expectations”, “enabling circumstances”, and “social
influence”. Hence, researchers can assess UTAUT theories by using extended models
in order to predict consumer behaviour towards sustainable apparel in the Asian market.
Although “TPB” and “TRA” are commonly used theories, more attention needs to be
given to the theory given by Hunt and Vitell (2006). This theory offers a framework for
comprehending ethical reasoning and behaviour in consumer contexts. Since SF is still
a comparatively emerging concept and is gaining popularity in Asia, the diffusion of
innovations theory (Tidd, 1997), which discusses how to market new ideas to the pub-
lic, may be pertinent to consider in future. The motivation-opportunity-ability (MOA)
model (MacInnis & Jaworski, 1989) and values-lifestyle-behavior hierarchy (Homer &
Kahle, 1988), which talk about how choices and intentions are formed, are other theo-
ries that could be explored in future research.

5.2 Context

Most studies have focused on Western countries’ behaviour towards SF, and few on the behav-
iours of Asian people. More studies need to focus on Asian economies, as this region boasts
the largest population in the world. Examining behaviour in the Asian context will help drasti-
cally reduce the exploitation of resources and the environment. It is evident from Table 2 that
most of the studies were from China, Malaysia and South Korea. Subsequent studies must pri-
oritise the examination of additional key Asian economies, including Japan, India, Indonesia,
Bangladesh, Thailand, and the United Arab Emirates. Given that the majority of research on
the influences of fashion choices has focused on brick-and-mortar stores, there is a significant
opportunity to explore sustainable purchasing habits in the regard to online fashion shopping.

5.3 Characteristics

Product-related, demographic, ethical and individual factors have been extensively studied.
Technological, cultural and political factors have been overlooked in the SF literature. Addi-
tionally, some important factors that need to be investigated further are discussed below:
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…

5.3.1 Sustainable fashion and green marketing activities

Although there is a favourable environmental outlook, this sentiment does not convert into
actual purchase behaviour (Gupta & Ogden, 2009; Vermeir & Verbeke, 2006). The presence
of the attitude-behaviour gap necessitates a comprehensive examination. Shifting the focus to
the fundamental principles of green marketing and thoroughly assessing how they influence
consumer buying habits could offer a remedy for this disparity.

5.3.2 Sustainable fashion and brand equity

Yoo et al. (2000) and Yoo and Donthu (2002) conducted studies on the effects of different
marketing strategies on brand equity for consumer goods. Likewise, it is essential to conduct
research on how eco-friendly clothing initiatives in green marketing impact brand equity as
well as purchase intention.

5.3.3 Sustainable fashion and consumer emotions

Although consumer emotions are rarely discussed in SF literature, consumer behaviour is

influenced by both emotional and cognitive responses (Schiffman et al., 2010). A consumer’s
emotional state might be either good (like happiness or love) or negative (like anger or fear)
(Laros & Steenkamp, 2005). Studying how consumer behaviour is influenced by both positive
and negative emotions from the perspective of SF could be beneficial.

5.3.4 Sustainable fashion and artificial intelligence

As per Table 5, the study on “psychological traits,” “product attributes,” “knowledge,” “nor-
mative,” and “value paradigms” has been extensively done. However, the role of e-commerce
platforms and AI-driven websites in influencing SF intent or behaviour requires further inves-
tigation, as online consumers’ purchase decision-making styles are different from those of
offline purchases (Lim et al., 2016; Sam & Chatwin, 2015).

5.4 Methods

Although quantitative research techniques are common, researchers can use qualitative or
mixed-method techniques to determine the elements affecting the purchase of eco-friendly
clothes. Notably, the study of SF behaviour in the Asian context is in its infancy, making a
longitudinal study crucial to understanding the evolution of Asian consumers’ responses to
sustainable fashion.

6 Conclusions

The growth of sustainable consumption in the fashion industry relies on manufacturers,

managers, retailers, and regulatory bodies accurately comprehending the determinants
that impact the SF behaviour of the Asian populace. This paper has reviewed theories of
TPB, TCV, UTAUT, Value belief norm, S–O–R, TIB, and individual factors affecting con-
sumers’ propensity to buy eco-friendly fashion. In summary, the theories in this review
 F. Uddin et al.

indicated that social norms, perceived values, and individual beliefs shape Asian consumer
behaviour towards SF. The common link between theories like TPB, TRA, UTAUT, VBN,
TIB and social capital theory is the role of social norms as an influencing factor for SF.
For Asian consumers, the social approval comes first for SF as well. Social approval could
be manifested through influencers, celebrities, and societal expectations. The accultura-
tion theory also suggests that exposure to SF trends among consumers will make it look
like a norm and, thereby, result in SF adoption. When it comes to perceived value, apart
from sustainability aspects, SF behaviour is influenced by emotional and functional ben-
efits as per TCV and UTAUT theories. Lastly, the link between TPB, TRA and TIB the-
ory in terms of SF is through moral norms and beliefs. The person having strong personal
and ethical commitment towards society will be influenced towards SF. Product qualities,
such as the range of “colours”, “designs”, and “materials” used for SF products, influence
purchasing decisions (Wang & Shen, 2017; Chan & Wong, 2012; Tran, 2020). Among
demographic factors, “parents’ income” has been found to be an essential predictor of SF
purchases. Besides, the research void is underscored by the TCCM framework, which pro-
poses the application of “Hunt & Vitell’s theory”, the “diffusion of innovations theory”,
the “values-lifestyle-behavior hierarchy”, and the “motivation-opportunity-ability” model
to further advance and explore the field of SF research. Furthermore, the thematic assess-
ment suggests neglected e-commerce and artificial intelligence domains. The role of artifi-
cial intelligence-enabled websites in shaping SF behaviour is a critical gap in the SF litera-
ture, and addressing this gap could lead to the development of innovative AI solutions for
promoting SF. In SF literature, most research endeavours have focused on Asian economies
such as China, South Korea, and Malaysia; particularly, China is the most research-produc-
tive country in SF behaviour literature. This phenomenon leads to a gap in research from
the context perspective. The future investigation should focus on other Asian countries,
namely India, Japan, Indonesia, Bangladesh, Thailand and the UAE since these countries
are influential economies and are home to a significant proportion of the global population.
The present study, along with a literature analysis undertaken by Abbate et al. (2024),
Busalim et al. (2022), and Tey et al. (2018), reveals both commonalities and differences
in the determinants of SF in Asia and globally. Subjective norms, environmental aware-
ness or knowledge, and social influence are prominent factors that influence consumers
both internationally and in Asia. There is an alignment among global and Asian trends that
raising awareness, promoting a sustainable environment, and delivering value will have an
impact on attitudes towards SF. Furthermore, the income variable has a shared character-
istic. A notable shared characteristic seen across consumers globally, particularly in Asia,
is their susceptibility to social pressure. That is why marketers are strategically aligning
SF with social groups or attempting to associate it with a particular lifestyle. Nevertheless,
worldwide patterns indicate that youthful age demographics and price sensitivity charac-
teristics are significant drivers on a global scale. Conversely, research conducted among
Asian populations concludes that these determinants have little or no significance. On a
global scale, sustainable fashion behaviour is assessed using social learning theory, social
identity theory, and Brand-related paradigms, which vary significantly from the research
undertaken in Asia. Moreover, the common theories used globally and in Asia were value
belief norm theory, SOR, and TPB.
Antecedents of sustainable fashion in Asia: current and future…

7 Limitations of the study

The study’s shortcomings point out a few significant problems that could be overcome in
future research. One major limitation is the exclusive reliance on the Scopus database to
source literature from Asian countries, which may restrict the generalisability of the results
to other continents. Future researchers might consider using literature from other conti-
nents to gain further insights. Comprehensive studies on each Asian market are impor-
tant, given that most countries are classified as emerging or top economies in the Asian
continent. Besides, the use of other prominent databases could significantly enrich the liter-
ature in SF. The inaccessible articles that authors could not include in the content screening
process will also have little impact on the finding’s generalisability. This review has con-
sidered all SF items. A study of consumer behaviour towards different sustainable fashion
product categories, like apparel, footwear, accessories, etc., may provide deeper insights.
This approach is essential to ensuring that no significant insights on sustainability are over-
looked. However, it is noteworthy to mention that the study primarily focuses on consumer
behaviour perspectives and does not take into account the perspectives of retailers, manu-
facturers, and other stakeholders in the fashion business.

8 Practical recommendations

There is a lack of awareness and sufficient knowledge about eco-friendly fashion in Asia.
Knowledge and awareness are necessary for shaping significant consumer behaviour vari-
ables like attitude, subjective norm, and perceived behavioural control. Keeping in mind
the influencing factors of the SF, this review suggests an emphasis on creating aware-
ness regarding eco-friendly products and fabrics such as organic cotton, recycled polyes-
ter, bamboo, wool, and banana silk. Brands are paying attention to it and making unique
selling propositions (Kaya, 2023). Prominent factors like environmental concerns, knowl-
edge, and epistemic values call for retailers to communicate through eco-labels. Retailers
can provide transparency in the product lifecycle and disclose their sustainability efforts
through storytelling. Further, policymakers introducing certification and categorisation
based on the percentage of products or processes that are sustainable will simplify com-
munication through labelling. These strategies will also reduce ambiguity and mistrust
for ethical brands. Integrating AI technology with blockchain and similar technologies
can simplify product authentication, thereby boosting consumer confidence in SF (Shah
& Uddin, 2023; Shreemoye, 2023). The government providing several incentives to small
or large brands dealing with recycling or upcycling in the fashion industry will motivate
retailers. Redefining luxury towards sustainability and ethical production will help brands
recover the cost of implementing sustainability and benefit the environment. The emer-
gence of social media has greatly benefited the fashion industry, communicating the prin-
ciples of sustainability in fashion. Since social norms have been a motivator, brands need
leverage from celebrities, especially from social media influencers with whom consumers
share deep bonds or connections. From the government or policymakers’ side, communica-
tion through expressing clothing choices made by top officials in government will make it
socially desirable (PTI, 2023). However, consumers are not swayed solely by social media
influence; they also expect sustainable fashion to deliver in terms of price, quality, and
design. Creating timeless and classic designs by designers could also make an effort to give
a competitive edge to sustainable fashion over fast fashion. The social expectations created
 F. Uddin et al.

in their surroundings will force consumers of the most populous continent to change their
attitude toward sustainability, which will make a difference in the issue of climate change
and global warming.

Supplementary Information The online version contains supplementary material available at https://​doi.​
org/​10.​1007/​s10668-​024-​05793-x.

Funding The authors declare that no funding was received to assist in writing the manuscript and no role of
any funding organisation in the decision to publish the results.

Data availability The data that back the study’s findings are accessible from SCOPUS; however, there are
limits on their usage as they were obtained under licence and are thus not open to the public. However, data
generated or analysed during this study are included in this article.

Declarations
Conflict of interest The authors declare no conflict of interest.

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