SHREYA BHATIA
FASHION TRENDS AND FORECASTING CLASS ASSIGNMENT
Resurgence of
Ajrakh Printing as a
major trend in 2023-24
What is ajrakh?
Ajrakh, also known as Ajrakh, is a unique
form of textile block printing found mostly
in Sindh, Pakistan and Ajrakhpur, Kutch
district, India. Ajrakh textiles display special
designs and patterns made using block
printing with stamps. They have their
in uence from the Indus Valley civilization.
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How it all started.
Ajrakh was produced by a community of
people called “Khatri” artisans who belonged
to Sindh, the original heartland of Ajrakh.
Nomads wore ajrakh clothes to identify each
other through brightly coloured ajrakh
clothes. As a community of block–printers,
they have been practising the art of Ajrakh
since 3000 years.It slowly trickled it’s way up
into the royal households.
The process
The process of Ajrakh block printing
constitutes 12-14 steps, including making the
block, preparation of the cloth, preparation of
dyes, imprinting the design, and drying.
https://youtu.be/Alpzrs4tTaA?
si=FBXvWZ3Mzi75m7PY
The pre-era.
The post covid era saw an overall rise in traditional Indian textiles because people
started turning towards their culture and roots.
World’s first smart ajrakh
jacket was designed to fight
covid
CoVest(s) were completely ‘MADE IN INDIA’ indigenous
innovation and products that can help the general public,
industries, services, hospitals and other institutions.
Prime features of Covest are Viral Shield, In-build masks,
Social distancing sensors, body temperature thermometer,
Magic UV pockets.
First jacket, Co-vest – AJRAK was crafted and designed by
ex-NID Prof. and Co-Founder Somesh Singh with UNESCO
& WCC Awardee Craftsman, Abdul Jabbar Khatri.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee's
Designs Move To Classroom.
Ajrakh School Uniforms
The designer who is known for his air of taking traditional
crafts and making them relevant to contemporary dressing,
has designed the uniforms for the Rajkumari Ratnavati Girls
School—using ajrakh produced by the cooperative centre.
Mukherjee has referred to ajrakh in previous collections like
the autumn/winter collection 2009, ‘Neela aur Bagardandi ki
Kahani’—which means “indigo and burgundy story”, which
included a chottu sari.
Speaking of the techniques used, Sabyasachi added, "With
this in mind, we chose to use Ajrakh - a traditional textile from
the region. It's block printed with natural dyes using a
technique that predates modern history.”
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Ajrakh in
accessories.
With leading designers opting for ajrakh,
the traditional hand block printing
technique is gaining popularity again.
Artisans have diversi ed their areas and
have now started producing accessories
and home decor using the age old craft.
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Tradition is
trending.
Ajrakh has started nding it’s place in the modern
wardrobes in forms of jackets, shirts, coats and
frocks. The need to uplift and preserve the
traditional crafts has ampli ed over the past few
years. Designers, Celebrities and in uencers
are bringing the much needed change.
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Ajrakh motifs
Ajrakh is believed to have the sky as its theme. The sky is
represented by the colour blue, evening by the colour red and
night by black. The white star-like motifs represent stars.
Ajrakh designs appear similar to kaleidoscopic patterns. The cloth
used is usually about 3-5 meters long. It is patterned with intense
jewel-like colors. The symmetrical block prints transfer their
patterns onto fabric mainly in deep crimson and indigo. These
patterns are peppered with imprinted, sparkling white motifs.
Following Islamic design principles, they do not depict human or
animal gures.
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UPCOMING BRANDS
Okhai
Online marketplace Okhai’s in-house
collaborations with artisans offer diverse
iterations of Indian crafts. Among them is the
versatility of ajrakh. Besides a new collection
dedicated to the craft, there are staples by
the retailer, including the ‘Raisin’ bomber
jacket, offered on its e-commerce website.
Sundarii Merino
Sundarii is an emerging brand that focuses on
India’s handloom traditions, with a spotlight on
ajrakh for a millennial audience. Its reversible
ajrakh shawl in made in breathable and all-
season Merino wool, fringed with playful
indigo tassels. In a shade of rust orange, the
traditional blocks get a minimal treatment with
a Japanese inspired pattern infused with
mixed prints and patchwork-style placement.
Craft Maestros
A homegrown e-commerce platform, Craft
Maestros works directly with crafts
communities across India, curating textiles,
home linen, jewellery. This indigo ajrakh
shirt with a straight collar, made in 100 per
cent cotton, can be worn with a textured
blazer or gilet for a formal look.
