Vardhman Group

Auro Textile-II
Summer Internship Report

SUBMITTED TO SUBMITTED BY
Ms. Bhawna Gupta Sumit Prajapat
Human Resources (H.R.) Branch-Textile Chemistry
Auro Textile-II. B. Tech (3rd Year)
Baddi, Tehsil Nalagarh M.L.V. Textile&Engineering
Distt. Solan, Himachal collage,Bhilwara Rajasthan

(Duration:1 August to 14 sep., 2023)

(6 Weeks Training)

1
 Table Of Contents
Declaration 3

Acknowledgement 4

Vardhman Group
Introduction 5

Vision & Mission 6

Leadership 7

Awards 8

Manufacturing Units 9

Products & Production Details 12

Auro Textile-II
Auro Textile-II Layout 13

Raw Material 14

Process Flow 15

Preparatory Process Unit 18

Finishing Unit 37

Printing Unit 52

Quality Assurance (Q.A.) 76

Project Details
Introduction Of F.R.C 82

F.R.C Generating Area 83

Causes Of F.R.C Generation 84

Reduction Of F.R.C Generation 86

2
 Declaration
I the undersigned solemnly declare that the internship
report is based on my own work carried out during the
course of our study under the supervision of Hardeep Balyan
Sir.
I assert the statements made and conclusions drawn
are an outcome of my research work. I further certify that.
(i) The work contained in the report is original and
has been done by me under the general
supervision of my supervisor.
(ii) The work has not been submitted to any other
Institution for any other
degree/diploma/certificate in this industry or any
other industry of India or abroad.
(iii) We have followed the guidelines provided by the
industry in writing the report.
(iv) Whenever we have used materials (data,
theoretical analysis, and text) from other sources,
we have given due credit to them in the text of the
report and giving their details in the references.

Sumit Prajapat
B.Tech.(3rd Year)
Textile
Chemistry
MLVTEC,Bhil.
3
 Acknowledgement

This Internship Proved to bridge the gap between the theoretical and
Practical Aspects of textile Field. It was a great pleasure to be part of
Vardhman Group. All Thanks to my institute M.L.V.TEXTILE&ENGINEERING
COLLAGE BHILWARA (RAJ.) for providing me the opportunity for getting the
practical knowledge at such an eminent company.

I am Thankful to my Internship Mentors Mrs. Bhawna Gupta (H.R.).

I am very thankful to the whole Vardhman Group for providing me the best
possible facilities and good environment during the period of my
internship. I acknowledge deep gratitude towards each and every
employee of the Auro Textile-II, Baddi for providing me their valuable time.

I would also like to express my gratitude towards my mentor Mr. Hardeep

Balyan (HOD) for giving me chance to work on such a nice project.
Instructions of each person I meet in Auro were very beneficial for the
successful completion of my project report.

I would like to thank Mr Arvind Vashist College Placement Officer for

their support and advices to get and complete internship in above said
organization.

I pay my special thanks to all the other HODs also for their valuable time,
co- operation, guidance and providing useful data for his all source of
inspiration all along.

I am extremely great full to all staff members and friends who helped me in
successful completion of this internship.

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 Vardhman Group
Introduction
 Vardhman is India's largest vertically integrated textile
manufacturer with multiple production facilities across
India. It not only offers its clients unmatched agility and
flexibility, but also consistency, reliability, traceability
and sustainability due to the complete in-house control
over each stage of production.
 Vardhman Group is a textile group based in Ludhiana,
Punjab, India, that was established in 1965. The group is
engaged in manufacturing and trading in Yarn and
Processed Fabric, Sewing Thread, Acrylic fibre and Alloy
steel.
 Vardhman group was incorporated in 1962 as
Vardhman Spinning & General Mills (VSGML). The
company was promoted by VS Oswal and RC Oswal
initially and is now headed by S. P. Oswal.
 The company started exporting from 1990–91 and it
exports mainly to Spain, UK, Germany, US, Japan and
some African and E. Asian countries. Exports account for
22% of the group's revenues.
 The group has 12 production plants located in the states
of Punjab, Himachal Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh.
 In 1982 the Group entered the sewing thread market in
the country which was a forward integration of the
business. Today Vardhman Threads is the second
largest producer of sewing thread in India.

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Vision Of Vardhman Group
Rooted in values,
Creating World Class Textiles.

Mission Of Vardhman Group

Vardhman Group as a world-class textile organisation
aims at producing diverse range of products for the
global textiles market.
We seek to achieve customer delight through excellence in
manufacturing and customer service, based on creative combination
of state-of-the-art technology and human resources. We understand
and bear our responsibility as a good corporate citizen.

Values Of Vardhman Group

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 Leadership

7
 Awards

2006 India’s Top 500 Companies

By Dun & Bradstreet American Express Corporate Award.
2012-15 Best Achiever Award
To Vardhman Fabrics in PAT Cycle 1 for energy conservation.
2017 Safety Award
By Punjab Industrial Safety Council.
2009,2016 Niryat Shree Award
By The Federation of Indian Export Organisations (FIEO) Awards.
2010-11,2011-12,2012- Multiple TEXPROCIL honours for Highest Exports
13,2016-17,2017- Of Processed Yarns, Greige Fabrics &Bleached/Dyed/Yarn
18,2018-19 Dyed/Printed Fabrics by Textile Export Promotion Council.
2019 Gold Award in ICQCC
Held at Tokyo, Japan-Quality Circle, Jay Vishwakarma, Auro Textiles.

2018,2019 Gold Award

In National Level Kaizen Competition-Vardhman Fabrics.
2020 Platinum Award in ICQCC
Held at Dhaka, Bangladesh Quality Circle Prabhat, Vardhman Fabrics.

2020 Frost & Sullivan & TERI Sustainability Awards

Challenger’s Award for Large Business Process Sector & Jury Special
Mention Award for Water Saving initiatives.
2022 Excellent Performance in Sustainable Chemical and Waste Water
Management Program by Apparel Impact Institute.
2018 Gold Award in ICQCC
Held at Singapore-Quality Circle Kshitij, Vardhman Fabrics
2018 Awarded for Pioneering Work.
by Confederation of Indian Textiles Industry.

8
 Manufacturing Units

9
 Products
(1) Yarns
The largest business of the Group, with the
manufacturing capacity of 670 metric tons per day,
Yarn is what Vardhman is widely known for.
 Greige Yarns
 Speciality Yarns
 Dyed Yarns
 Acrylic, Fancy & Hand Knitting Yarns
(2) Fabrics
The Vertical Contributing close to one-third of
Group’s turnover, Fabrics business in the growth
engine of Vardhman Textiles.
 Piece Dyed
 Yarn Dyed
 Prints
 Fiber Blends
 Speciality Finishes
(3) Garments
Producing finest shirts with specialization in Post Cure
& Taped Shirts, Vardhman’s Garment division offers
products focussed on ‘quality’,’functionality’and
‘comfort’.
 Classical Formal Shirts
 Casual & Garment Over Dyed Shirts.

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 (4) Acrylic Fibers
Marketed under the brand name ‘VARLAN’,
Vardhman has a capacity to manufacture 22000 tons
per annum of Acrylic Staple Fibre and Tow.

(5) Threads
A division outside of flagship business, Vardhman
Yarns & Threads Limited provides a wide range of
threads. These Threads are used in sewing,
embroidery and special applications including
clothing, home textile and leather products.

(6) Special Steels

One of the leading producers of Special and Alloy
Steel, Vardhman Special Steels Limited caters to
diverse requirements of automotive, engineering,
bearing and allied industries.
 Carbon Steel
 Case Hardening Steel
 Through Hardening Steel
 Boron
 Micro Alloyed
 Vanadium
 Nitriding
 Ball Bearing
 Spring

11
 Production Details

12
 Auro Textile-II

13
 Raw Material
 Raw material which are used in the Auro Textile-II Unit
is taken from the different section of Vardhman Group
of Baddi viz.
 Raw Material for Printing: -Auro Textile-I.
 Yarn Dyed raw material: -Mahavir Spinning Mills.
 Piece Dyed: -Mahavir Spinning Mill & Auro Weaving.

 Type of raw material in respect of fibre which are

processed in Auro Textile-II are mentioned below.
 100% Cotton.
 100% Viscose.
 Lycra.
 Polyester/Cotton Blend.
 Cotton/Modal Blend.
 Cotton/Viscose Blend.
 Cotton/Teflon Blend.
 Cotton/Tencel Blend.

 The width of the raw material which comes from the

other unit of Vardhman Group are given below.
 Over Dyed Fabric- up to 204 cm.
 Other Fabric-Less than 200 cm.

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 Process Flow

Preparatory Process Unit

Greige Opener

Singeing

Pre-Treatment Range

Dhall Washer

Jet M/c + Baby Jet

Mercerizer

Brushing

Peaching

Raising

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 Printing Unit

Product Development Cell(P.D.C)

Design Studio

Engraving

Strike-Off

Colour Kitchen

Bulk Printing

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Finishing Unit Quality
Assurance

Stenter Grouping Section

Sanforizer Physical Testing

Calender Chemical Testing

Airo-24 Inspection & Folding

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Introduction Of Preparatory Process
 Preparatory Process Unit of Auro Textile-II is used
to process a yarn dyed fabric.
 A yarn dyed fabric is firstly subjected to the
preparatory unit before any process because it
facilitates effective working of next subsequent
process.
Description Of Different Section Of P.T.R
(1) Opening Section: - Opening section are used to open
the yarn dyed package for further processing in
preparatory unit.
It uses modern Monti-Mac machine whose speed is
much higher than the conventional opening machine.
There is total three greige opener one is modern and
other remaining two are conventional.
Monti-Mac M/C Provides automation in the stitching
and cutting processes of textile material in order to
maintain continuity of the same type of material.
The small cut-out material of the fabric is collected
into the Nilfisk R104 via suction.

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 (2) Singeing
 It is the process of removing protruding fibre
from the surface of the fabric by burning in
order to make surface of the fabric smooth,
impart little bit lustre etc.
 In AT-II Unit uses singeing machine of Osthoff-
senge.
 Gas flame singeing are used to burn the hairy
fibre.
Components Of Singeing Machine
1. Cloth Guider: -To run the fabric in the centre of the
machine.
2. Pre-Brushing Unit: -Pre-Brushing Unit is used to remove
dirt, dust and fluff from the fabric.
3. Singeing Unit: -Singeing Unit consists of following parts.
3.1. In singeing unit two burners: Used for Face and
back side singeing of the fabric.
3.2. Water Cooling roll.
3.3. Burner to fabric roll distance:7mm to 10mm.
3.4. Ignition Park plugg.
3.5. Flame height:6 to 8cm.
4. Cooling Roller: -Five cooling roller is used.
5. Heat Exchanger: -Used to protect the burner. Soft
water used for cooling purpose.
6. Burner: -Two burner used for singeing.
a- Fire Bricks.
b- Spark plug for ignition.
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 c- Water supply for cooling down the temperature
of burner body.
d- Filter.
e- Gas and Air ratio 20/80.
7. Control Panel
8. Post Brushing Unit: -Post brushing unit used to remove
the dust after singeing. It consists of two brush roll and two
motors.

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 Singeing Parameter
Parameter 100% 100% Lycra/Cotton Lycra/Cotton PET/Cotton PET/Cotton
Cotton Cotton Soft Peach Soft Peach
Soft Peach
Flame 13 M 6 M bar 13 M bar 6 M bar 10 M bar 6 M bar
Intensity bar
Burner 4 2 4 2 2 2
Position
Flame Blue Blue Blue Blue Blue Blue
Colour
M/C Speed 100 100 100 Mtr/Min 100 Mtr/Min 100 Mtr/Min 100 Mtr/Min
Mtr/Min Mtr/Min
Flame 6-7 cm 6-7 cm 6-7 cm 6-7 cm 6-7 cm 6-7 cm
Height

(3) Pre-Treatment Range

Machine Open width pre-treatment

range
Manufactured By Benninger
Model No. Singeing LH-DL095B4E-LDTK
No. Of M/C 1
Gross Width 200 cm
Workable Width 180 cm
Speed Range 12-125 M/Min
Total Threading Length 360 Meter
Process Done Desizing-Bleaching-Normal
Washing

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Desizing
 It is the process in which size material is removed from
the fabric which are applied during the weaving
process.
 Size paste are hydrophobic in nature when they
applied over fabric surface it imparts hydrophobicity
which prevents penetration of processing liquor in
proper manner that’s affects the subsequent
processes.
 Benninger manufactured desizing m/c are used in AT-II.
 Steam and Batch are the two ways of desizing in
which Batch desizing are more effective.
 After desizing fabric are washed, neutralized and
then dried in VDR.

Parts Of Desizing Machine

Desizing machine consists of following parts: -
I. Desizing Saturator
 Saturator
 Batcher
 Blower
II. Steamer
 Moisture Control Unit
 Tight Stand
 Steamer Bed
III. Infeed Unit
 Cloth Guider
 J-Scray
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 IV. Trecoflex Unit

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  Feed Roll
 Trecoflex
V. Washer
 Chamber-1 to Chamber-6
VI. VDR
 Nip Roll
 VDR Unit Range-1
 VDR Unit Range-2
VII. Plaiter
 Batcher
 J Scray
 Plaiter
Description Of Parts Of Desizing Machine
a. Saturator
 Used for desizing, scouring and bleaching.
 Threading Length: 16 mtr.
 Temperature Range:70 Deg for desizing and
Room temperature for scouring and bleaching.
 Filter: Used for fluff removal.
 Nipp Roll: used for squeezing of the fabric.
 Nipp roll:15KN
b. Batcher
 Used for making the cold desize and cold
bleaching purpose.
 No. Of Batching:1 No. Of Motor Used:2
 Batching pressure: Auto mode.
c. Blower: - Is used to generate air in high pressure for
gas mixing.

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 d. Moisture Control Unit
In this unit water is used to generate wet steam. Water
capacity in the tank:440 Ltr.

e. Tight Stand
Tight Stand Unit used for chemical reaction. It also helps
to avoid pillar marks as half of the chemical’s reaction
completed in tight stand unit and rest of the chemical
reaction completed on the steamer bed.

f. Steamer Bed
For complete chemical reaction, fabric taken on the
steamer bed for 10 to 15 min time (called as Dwell
Time).

g. Cloth Guider
With the help of cloth guider, fabric run in the centre
of the guide rolls, it also prevents the fabric from fold
and selvedge curling problems.
Guide Roll:0.25 to 0.5 MPa.

h. J Scray
During batch and Trolley change, we use this J-Scray.

i. Feed Roll
The Feed Roll is positively driven rolls, and the
function of these roll to pull the fabric into machine.

j. Trecoflex

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 This is prewashing unit, and in this unit, fabric
washed under high pressure of water spray. This unit
having a two perforated roll and three spray pipes.

k. Washer
There is total six washing chamber. After Trecoflex unit,
Fabric passed through first washer. In this washer 15 mtr
threading length.
Water Capacity: -1070 ltr.
Water Flow: -Counter Flow.
Nipp Roll Pressure-20 KN.

l. Nip Roll
Pressure of Nipp Roll: -0.3
MPa. Pickup: -55-65%
Hardness Of the Nip Roll: -90 to 95 Deg shore.

m. VDR Unit Range1

No. Of Cylinder-12 Temperature- 100 to 140
Deg. Teflon coated cylinder. Steam Pressure-2 to 2.5
kg.
Threading Length-42.5 mtr.

n. VDR Unit Range2

No. Of Cylinder-12 Temperature- 100 to 140
Deg. Stainless steel cylinder. Steam Pressure-2 to
2.5 kg.
Threading Length-42.5 mtr. Hot Cylinder-
10 Cooling Cylinder-2.
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 o. Batcher: -Used to take fabric in A-Frame.

p. Plaiter: -Used to take fabric in

trolley. Plating Length-1.5
mtr.

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 Recipe For Organic Cotton Yarn Dyed Desizing (Steam
Desize)

Chemical Name Ml/kg

Wetting agent (Felosan HLDN) 5
Chelating agent (Sirrix 2UDI) 2
Dwell Time 12 min
Steamer Temp 92 Deg
Washer Temp 80 Deg
Acid (Acetic Acid) pH3

Recipe For Organic Cotton Yarn Dyed Desizing (Steam

Desize)

Chemical Name Ml/kg

Wetting agent (Felosan HLDN) 5
Chelating agent (Sirrix 2UDI) 2
Dwell Time 12 min

Washer Temp 80 Deg

Acid (Acetic Acid) pH3

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(4). Dhall Washer
 Dhall washer is used for the washing purpose of
the batch desize fabric in AT-II Plant.
 It is manufactured by Dhall Enterprises
and Engineers Pvt Ltd.
Components Of Dhall Washer

(i) Inlet Unit: -Used to feed the fabric into the M/C.

(ii) J-Scray: -Used to maintain the continuity of

the fabric during batch changing.

(iii) Centering Device: -Used to put the fabric

at the central position of the guide roller.

(iv) Washing Zone: -There are three types of

washing zone. Washing Unit-1, Washing Unit-2
and Washing Unit-3. Temperature of each
washing unit is 80 Deg.

(v) Neutralization Bath: -It consists of green acid

which is used to neutralize the alkaline pH of
the fabric. Its temperature is 60 Deg.

(vi) Rinsing Bath: -It contains simply a water

in which fabric are rinsed out at temperature
60Dg

(vii) V.D.R: -Used to dry the fabric.

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 (4) Near Jet Dyeing Machine

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 (7) Mercerization
 Mercerization is one of the most important
finishing processes of cotton with a strong
caustic alkaline solution in order to improve
the lustre, hand and other properties. It
imports gloss to the fibre, increases its
hygroscopicity, strength and improves its dye
affinity.
 The fabric is first immersed in a caustic
solution of about 23% strength and a relatively
cool temperature of 60-90ºF (16-32ºC).
 It is then fed around a series of rollers (timing
cans) which keep it flat and smooth while
controlling the time of caustic exposure. The
fabric is then sprayed with rinse water and then
washed with a neutralizing chemical before
final drying.
 The process will cause the fabric to shrink
somewhat, so the fabric must be stretched
before removing the caustic solution.
Optimum dwell time of 45 seconds to 5
minutes (depending on the fabric) allows the
yarn to swell and the fibres to untwist while
tension is applied.
 Mercerizing can be done in both yarn state and
fabric state. Woven fabrics are mercerized in
full width and mercerizing of knit fabric is
possible in both full width and tubular form.

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Different part of Mercerizer Machine.
The mercerizer machine consists of several parts viz.
1. Infeed System.
2. Prewetting Trough.
3. Impregnation and Reaction Compartment.
4. Stabilising Compartment.
5. Transfer Compartment.
6. Stenter Frame.
7. High Performance Squeeze.
8. Washing Compartment.
9. VDR
10. Fabric Outlet.

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Description Of Different Parts of Mercerizer Machine.
1. Prewetting Trough: -The unit is suitable for the even
wetting and swelling of fabric webs running through
the machine.
2. Impregnation & Reaction Compartment: -The
impregnation compartment is designed for spraying
caustic soda onto the fabric to be treated which is passing
through. The reaction compartment increases the action
time and enables optimum swelling of the cotton fibres.
3. Stabilising Compartment: -In the stabilising
compartment the lye content in the fabric is reduced by
washing and no shrinkage will occur in the fabric in the
following washing compartments.
4. Transfer Compartment: -The transfer compartment
serves the machine operator in monitoring the stenter
frame and in controlling the cloth infeed.
5. Stenter Frame: -The stenter frame serves in attaining
optimum residual shrinkage values in a transported fabric in
length and width. Additionally, it serves to correct
differences between the edges and middle parts of the
fabric resulting from shrinkage at the edges while being
processed in the preceeding impregnation/reaction
compartments and the transfer compartment.
6. High Performance Squeeze: -The high-performance
squeeze module separates the liquor from the fabric and
also serves for fabric transport.

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 (7) Brushing
 It is the process used to remove loose threads
and short fibres ends from smooth-surfaced
fabrics and is also used to raise a nap on knits
and woven fabrics.
 Brushing is frequently applied to the fabrics after
shearing, removing the cut fibres that have
fallen into the nap.
 Only one side of the fabric are treated at a time.
 The brushing machine manufactured by Lafer
are used in AT-II Unit. It consists of a large
cylinder which moves in clockwise direction over
which six brush roller are mounted. All brush
rolls are move opposite to the direction of large
cylinder.
 There are three more brush rollers, out of them
two are fitted at the top of the m/c which moves
in clockwise direction and third one is fitted
beside the large cylinder which moves in
anticlockwise direction.
 Upper two rollers are fitted along with the fan.

Fabric Inlet Brushing Zone Fabric Outlet

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35
(8) Peaching
 The Peach effect on fabric is obtained by sanding
the fabrics slightly; it imparts a protruded
surface and soft feel.
 AT-II uses peaching machine made by Xetma.
 Sand Paper roller are used in a peaching machine.
There are 24 small sand paper rollers mounted
over a large cylinder which continuously rubbed
the fabric to impart soft feel.
 After 10,000 mtr fabric treatment, six rollers
are changed according to a proper rule which
are described below.
(i) Roller No. (1,5,9,13,17,21)-Changed 1st.
(ii) Roller No. (2,6,10,14,18,22)-Changed 2nd.
(iii) Roller No. (3,7,11,15,19,23)-Changed 3rd.
(iv) Roller No. (4,8,12,16,20,24)-Changed 4th.

36
 (9) Raising
 Raising is a permanent mechanical finishing
process that raises the surface fibres of a fabric
by means of passage over rapidly revolving
cylinders covered with metal points.
 Raising m/c manufactured by Lafer are used in
AT- II Unit. There is total four big cylinder in one
set of Lafer raising machine over which on a
single cylinder total 28 small inclined tooth roller
are mounted.
 Out of 28 small roller, 14 rollers tooth inclined in
upper direction and 14 rollers tooth are inclined
in downward direction. Half of them moves in
pile direction (i.e., Fabric direction) and
remaining half moves in a counter pile direction
(i.e., opposite to fabric direction).
 Both upper and lower cylinder moves in
clockwise direction.

37
 Introduction Of Finishing Section
 Finishing is the series of process in which all bleach,
dyed and printed fabric are subjected before putting
into the market.
 Finishing section is the last processing unit where the
value addition to the fabric is done to satisfy and to
serve the customers expectation from it.
 There are approximately 3000 finishes are applied over
the textile material in Auro Textile-II Unit by using four
types of machines viz.
 Stenter.
 Sanforizer.
 Airo-24.
 Calendar.
 The main object of finishing process is
 To add serviceability to fabric.
 To add value to it.
 To enhance its physical appearance.
 To increase its handle.
 To increase the appearance of the fabric.

38
Description Of Different Finishing M/C Of AT-II Unit.

(1) Stenter
 Stenter is the most expensive and important
fabric drying and finishing machine. The purpose
of the stenter machine is: -
 To bringing the length and width to
pre- determine dimensions.
 For heat setting.
 Used for applying finishing chemicals and
also shade variation is adjusted.
 To stretch the fabric width wise and to
recover the uniform width.
 Stenter machine consists of two endless auto-
lubricated driven chains, typically 40 to 60 m in
length carrying pins or clips to hold the fabric
edges while passing through a number of hot-air
chambers (3–5, each of about 3 m).
 Hot air is directed onto the fabric equally from
above and below.
 A stenter has the provision for overfeeding the
fabric to allow required shrinkage during heat
setting of fabric while the width is increased to the
precisely specified value by the chains.
 The use of clip stenter has declined because of the
difficulty of applying overfeed. The stenter speed
ranges from 10 m/min for heavyweight furnishing
fabrics to 100 m/min for lightweight dress-goods.

39
Flow Chart of Stenter Machine
Fabric Loading
↓
Centering
↓
Paddin
g
↓
Weft straightening (Mahlo Unit)
↓
Lower overfeeding
↓
Expending
↓
Upper overfeeding
↓
Uncurling
↓
Pinning on
↓
Heat setting
↓
Air cooling
↓

40
 Pinning off Unload Plating

41
Working Process of Stenter Machine
 The fabric enters the machine from a batcher or a
trolley and is passed on to the solution tank through the
guide rollers and the tensioners. The solution tank
contains different finishing auxiliaries. The fabric is
padded in the solution tank and then taken out, passed
through the squeezing rollers that squeeze the fabric
according to required percentage. Then, the fabric is
passed through the weft straightener.
 In the feeding unit, the fabric is collected from the
batcher or trolley to the scray and then it is passed
through the padders where the finishes are applied and
sometimes shade variation is corrected. The fabric is
entered into the weft straightener (Mahlo). The
function of the weft straightener is to set the bow and
also weave of the fabric is gripped by the clips and pins
are also provided but the pins have a disadvantage that
they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretching
of the pins are greater than the clips. These clips and
pins are joined to endless chain. There are sensors that
sense the fault in weft and removes the fault. There are
8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each
chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to
separate dust from air. The circulating fans blow air
from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks
all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers are
provided to stretch the warp yarn.

42
 Note: -There is total five stenter in AT-II Unit.
(i)Monforts Montex (Total-3).
(ii)Motex (Total-2).

43
 (2) Sanforization

 Sanforization is a treatment for fabrics to reduce

shrinkage from washing. The process was patented
by Sanford Lockwood Cluett (1874–1968) in 1930.
 The sanforizing is a fabric finishing process. It is a pre-
shrinking of the fabric by passing the fabric into a
rubber unit. The ends and picks of the fabric come
closer to each other after the sanforizing process. When
the threads come together to each other, the thread-
to- thread gap or air space in the fabric gets reduced.
The reduced air space in the fabric results in the form of
improved fabric dimensional stability. This process is
also called sanforization.
 There is total three sanfo m/c in AT-II unit which
is manufactured by Monforts Montex.
 Sanforization process is also called Zero-Zero Finish.

Objects Of Sanforization

 To minimize the after washing fabric shrinkage.

 To improve the dimensional stability of the fabric.
 To soften the fabric handle.
 To increase the fabric GSM.
 To increase the fabric, cover in the fabric.

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PASSAGE OF FABRIC IN SANFORIZING MACHINE

 Inlet J Scray: - The inlet J-scray is used to store the

fabric during the batch change.
 Damping Cylinder: - The damping cylinder provides
intensive, uniform and controlled steaming of the
fabric. when the fabric passes through this damping
cylinder, the fabric absorbs the moisture and get moist.
 Mahlo Unit: - This device corrects the skewness
and Bowness present in the fabric being processed
and straightens the weft yarns present in the
fabric.

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  Rubber Blanket Shrinkage Unit: - The main function of
the rubber blanket shrinkage unit is to help to allow
the warpwise shrinkage to the fabric.
Fabric is passed between the hot cylinder and endless
rubber. The heating of the cylinder takes place by
steaming arrangements. Pressure is applied on the
fabric between the rubber and cylinder by pressure roll.
During this above operation, shrinkage takes place on
the fabric.
 Palmer Unit: - During drying of fabric in the palmer
unit, the moisture is uniformly absorbed from the
fabric by the felt blanket and the shrinkage of the fabric
is set. This unit is also having a felt drying cylinder,
which dries the endless felt cover.
 Cooling Cylinder: - This cylinder is used to further cool
the fabric to normal temperature.
 Batching & Plaiting Unit: - This unit winds the fabric on
a frame or plaits the finished fabric in a suitable box/
trolley.

Note: -(i) The speed of the machine is set according to

the fabric quality. 50-100 metres/minute speed is used
for normal finishing operation. it varies depending upon
the fabric quality.
(ii) The temperature of the rubber unit is kept 90-120
degrees C and the felt unit temperature is kept
between135-150 degrees C. the temperature range
varies according to the fabric quality.

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(3) Calendar

 The calendar machine imparts a smooth touch to the

fabric by improving the fabric’s opacity and
compressing it to make it lighter.
 With the simultaneous action of temperature, force and
moisture, the surface of the textile substrate is
modified. This simultaneous action is called calendaring.
 Calendaring in textile may simply be achieved while
passing the textile substrate in between two heated
drums or rollers. The rotation speed and pressure of the
heated drum may be varied according to the need.
 It produces lustre in the fabric.
 There is only one calendar in AT-II unit, manufactured
by Ramisch Guarneri.

Different Components of Calendaring M/C

 Seam detector: Function of seam detector is to bypass

the seam.
 Metal detector: Metal detector to detect metal partials.
 Anti-static rod: Anti-static rod is used to remove static
charges.
 Small winder: When we have to calendar short width
fabric and we can also run short width fabric with long
width fabric.
 Oscillating roll: To avoid selvedge overlapping on
batcher.

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  Cotton roll: For soft finish the fabric is passed through
cotton bowl. This roller is made up of cotton.
 Steel roll: To give smoothness and lustre. The
temperature is provided to steel roller about 32-200°C
with help of electric heater as we increase the
temperature shining will increases only used for cotton
CVC and percale and PC.
 Reclon roll: When fabric passes through Reclon roll and
steel roll giving smooth and lustre effect is generated.
When it runs with steel roll and reclon roll and cotton
roll dull effect is generated. When it runs b/w steel and
reclon gloss effect is generated.
 Cooling drum: Cool down the fabric water circulates
inside the cooling.

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49
4) Airo-24

 Biancalani Airo-24 is the textile finishing machine for

washing, drying and softening any kind of woven,
non- woven and knitted fabric.
 There is total three Airo-24 machine in AT-II Unit
manufactured by Biancalani.
 Cotton, linen, silk, wool, polyamide, Tencel, Lyocell,
Modal, nylon… With Airo®24 (Patented) all types of
products such as natural fibres, artificial fibres and
synthetic fibres can be treated without limits in terms of
weight and width.
 The Working Principle of Airo-24: -Fabric moves at a
very high speed, and is suspended and transported by
the airflow, in alternate directions…this is the heart of
the Biancalani Airo-24 continuous tumble treatment.
The inversion of the flow is very quick and accurate, and
the channel-self-cleaning-is aerodynamically designed in
order to avoid any resistance to air.
 The stiffness of the fabric is removed by
continuously beating the fabric against a series of
metallic rail by a high pressure of compressed air in
Airo-24.
 There are two types of airobeat process viz.
(i) Dry-Airobeat-Simply beating the fabric over
metallic rail.
(ii) Wet-Airobeat-Firstly padding with softener and
then beating over metallic rail.

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Technical Specifications of Airo-24

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Introduction Of Printing Section

 Rotary Screen-printing machine are employed for

printing the fabric in AT-II Unit. There is total four
rotary screen-printing machine in AT-II unit out of
which three are of Ichinose and remaining one is of
Stormac.
 There are two ageing machines in which fixation
process of print are performed.
(i) Arioli Loop Ager-1
(ii) Arioli Loop Ager-2
 For curing of pigment print there is one curing
machine of Texafa-3.
 In order to remove the hydrolysed dye from the
surface of the fabric, there are two washers viz.
(i) Arioli Print Washer-In open width form.
(ii) MCS Rope Print Washer-In rope form.

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Different Parts of Printing Sections

The printing section of AT-II divided into different parts

which are integrated with each other. They are mainly five
viz.

1. Product Development Cell (P.D.C).

2. Design Studio.
3. Engraving.
4. Strike-Off.
5. Colour Kitchen.
6. Bulk Production.

Flow Chart of Printing Section

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Description Of Different Parts of Printing Section

1. Product Development Cell (P.D.C)

 Print PDC is the heart of the printing section of
textile industry. The major role is PDC team
through the sampling process and works till getting
approval from the buyer.
 They do all the tasks from raw materials to finished
products in the sampling stage.
 To help the production team in bulk production for
a smooth process.
 They do all costing and process analysis, which is
also helpful for the bulk production team.
 They are responsible for deciding the route of
printing section.
 Directly lead and do all product development for
all the buyers and satisfy customers with good
quality samples.
 They are used to check the following given
parameters.
(i)Print Feasibility.
(ii)Greige
Feasibility.
(iii)Yardage
Process.
(iv)Trials for new dyes & chemicals.
 Involve and coordinate with all technical things like
pattern and strength etc.

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 2. Design Studio
 Design studio is the second part of printing section
which plays an important role in screen engraving.
 The swatch or digital image provided by the
customer is scanned via a scanner then by using
following software they produce the same design
as customer demand on a paper.
(a) Pixel Based
Software. (i)Best Image.
(ii)Photoshop.
(b) Vector Based
Software. (i)Coral.
(ii)Illustrator.
Pixel based software are mostly used by design
studio.
 Most of the customer provides his demands in the
form of a written document called CAD. In which
Requirements are mentioned in standard terms.
 The final design which is produced is send to the
PDC for analysing all the customer parameters, if it is
ok then it will transfer to the engraving zone.
3. Engraving
Engraving zone is responsible for the manufacturing of
the rotary screen by taking the consideration of the
design produced by the design studio.
They produced two types of screens which are
described below.
(i) Flat Screen: -For Strike-Off.
(ii) Rotary Screen: -For bulk production.

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Process Of Rotary Screen Engraving

 Curing of the perforated nickel shell at 180 deg for 2 hr

to stabilized the shell.
 Coating with the photosensitive polymerising emulsion
(Photoemulsion, Sensitizer, DM Water).
 Put the coated shell in climatizer at 42 deg for 10-15
min in order to dry up the fabric.
 Again, curing to hardened the coating at
same temperature for same duration.
 Engraving of the approved pattern over coated nickel
roll via laser light.
 Glueing of the end rings. Correct glueing of the end
rings ensures good stability and long life for the screens.

4. Strike-Off
 Strike-Off section prepare sample by using the
engraved flat screen or baby rotary screen for the
approval of the customer.
 Some of the customer thought that there will be
chances of variation between sample printed by
flat screen to bulk printing using rotary. That’s why
they demand yardage or sample printed by baby
rotary.
 After preparing sample it goes to the all testing and
finishing process to match the required quality of
customer.

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 5. Colour Kitchen.
 After the sample are approved by customer, the
printing paste are prepared for the bulk production
which is prepared in the colour kitchen.
 The colour Kitchen has mainly three section which
are described below.
(i) Paste Preparation Section.
(ii) Paste Storage tank.
(iii)Automatic Colour
Service.
 Paste preparation section is involve in preparing
printing paste without the addition of the colour in
to it and then the paste is transferred to the paste
storage tank which stores separately the printing
paste of the three styles (i.e., Reactive, Pigment,
Pigment Discharge).
Chemicals Which are used in paste preparation
section are: -
a. Urea-1 & Urea-2.
b. Sodium Bicarbonate.
c. Oxigrain (Resist Salt).
d. SERA AIR M-TOP- For Solidity.
e. Antifoam TC-Defoaming Agent.
f. Helizarin Binder TOW-Crosslinking Agent.
g. Luprintol HIT.
h. SERA WET CAS.
i. Luprintol MCL.
j. Helizarin Rongalite ST-Discharging Agent.
k. Luprintol Fixing Agent WB FR-Fixer.
l. SERA Print MSTR.
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  The stored printing paste of auxiliaries is transfer
to the Automatic colour service section where
required shade and colour are automatically mixed
with the colour dosing system in to the paste.

Recipe For Different Styles of Printing in AT-II

1. Reactive Printing

Chemical Name Vendor Kg

Water Local Supplier 66.5
Sear M-TOP Dystar 0.5
Sodium Bicarbonate Local Supplier 4
Urea Local Supplier 20
Printogen Oxidant Archroma 2
Grain
SERA WET CAS Dystar 0.5
SERA SPERSE C-SN Dystar 0.5
SERA PRINT M-STAR Dystar 5.5
100

2. Pigment Printing

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3. Pigment Discharge Printing

Pigment Discharge Process Sequence

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 6. Bulk Production
 Bulk production is simply the "actual" production.
Bulk production is the final product being
produced based on the actual order requirements.
Bulk production is the production of product in
bulk.
 There are four rotary printing machine which are
used for the bulk production of printed fabric and
the description about the manufacturer are
mention below.
(i) Ichinose Rotary Screen Printing Machine-
Three. (ii)Stormac Rotary Screen-Printing
Machine- One.
 There are three styles of printing which are used
for bulk printing in AT-II Unit viz.
(i)Reactive Printing.
(ii)Pigment Printing.
(iii)Pigment
Discharge.
 There are two ageing machines manufactured by
Arioli for steaming purpose.
(i) Arioli Loop Ager-I.
(ii) Arioli Loop Ager-II.
 There is one curing machine which are used in case
of pigment. It is manufactured by Texafa 3.
 There are two washing machines for washing the
printed fabric in order to remove the colour
present over the surface of the fabric. Washer
doesn’t used in case of pigment printing.
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 (i) Arioli print washer machine.
(ii) MCS print rope washer machine.

61
Description Of Different Machines Involved in Bulk Printing.

1. Ichinose Rotary Screen Printing Machines

 It is the world first inclined table rotary screen-
printing machine.
 There are some important features of Ichinose
printing machine which are given below.
a. Equipped with on-board screen washing
function. The screen is washed on the
machine without taking it on and off. There is
no need to refit design at the time of colour
change, and the machine utilization rate is
greatly increased.
b. Permanent magnet and squeegee rod print
system. The magnet table is permanently
magnet-type, allowing stable print conditions
to be set. The magnet table is permanently
magnet-type, allowing stable print conditions
to be set.
c. Stable print quality. The colour glue does not
stay in the screen by the colour glue
circulation system, and fresh colour glue is
always supplied.
d. High-precision design fit. The original control
using the servo motor for belt drive and
screen drive High precision design fit can be
maintained from low speed to high-speed
operation
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Specifications

Printing Width Maximum-1700mm

Repeat Length Standard-640mm
Screen Unit Max-16
Dryer Heat Source Thermic Oil
Gross Width 2000mm
Speed Range Max 100 mtr/min
Total Threading Length (25+40) mtr
Squeeze Rod Size 6,8,10,12,15,18

Components Of Ichinose rotary screen printing machine

A. In Feed Draw Roll

 Feed roll operated by a motor feeds the fabric into
J Scray.
 Tension Gear Unit is used to give the tension to the
fabric.
B. J-Scray
 To maintain continuity of the fabric.
C. Brushing Section
 To make the fabric fluff/threads free. Two brushing
rolls, one of which rotates face side of the fabric
and another one rotates back side of the fabric to
clean the fluff.
 Suction fans to suck the fluff/threads. No of suction
Fans-2.
D. Fabric Centering Device
 Keeps the fabric on required centre position. DC
motor operates the centering roll.

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 E. Printing Blanket Section
 A drive rolls drives the printing blanket.
 Fabric pressure roll presses the fabric on
the blanket.
 PVA trough provides PVA to blanket for gumming
of the fabric.
 A rubber doctor blade removes excess PVA from
blanket.
F. Printing Head Assembly
 Head have two positions, one of which is drive
Head and another one is non drive head.
 To make design printable screen gets lock into
these position & colour penetrates through the
screen by squeeze pressure.
G. Washing Unit
 To wash out the fluffs, threads, colour, chemical
etc. from blanket. A motor which drives brush roll
to remove undesired particles from blanket. No. Of
Brush rolls-2.
 Air cylinders makes the washing unit up down,
washing unit is in upper position in running m/c.
H. Pre-Heater
 Air blower to pre heat the fabric operated by
blower motor. No Of Air Blower-2.
I. Centering
 Conveyor centering device is used to centering of
the conveyor. Inductive sensor plays its role in
centering of the conveyor. No. Of inductive Sensor-
2.

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 J. Back Grey
 Drive roller which drives the back grey through SS
guide rollers. No of Drive Rollers-2 & No. of SS
Guide Roller-21.
K. Drying Zone
 To make the fabric dry.
 Blower motor which blows hot air through heating
radiator. Humidity sensor standardise humidity
into drier.
L. Plaiter Section
 Plaiting the fabric which is coming from blanket
through Dryer.

Rotary Dryer Parameter

Pigment 150 Deg Celsius

Reactive 110-120 Deg Celsius
Viscose 100-110 Deg Celsius
Cotton 120 Deg Celsius
Discharge 100-110 Deg Celsius

65
 2. Stormac Rotary Screen-Printing Machine
 Stormac is the Indian rotary screen-printing
machine which is used for the less colour design in
AT-II Unit. It has only 8 printing head.
 The rotary screen arrangement is in flat position
on Stormac printing machine which are quite
difficult for washing in comparison to inclined
position.
 Components of Stormac rotary printing machine
are described below: -
(i)Fabric Inlet (ii)Dust Collector Unit
(iii)PVA Unit (iv)Colour Pump Station
(v)Washing Unit (vi)Drying Unit
(vi)Fabric Outlet

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Technical Specifications of Stormac Printing Machine.

Maximum Printing Width 1850 mm

Maximum Web Width 1900 mm

Number of Printing Width 8

Production Speed 4-80 metres/min

Repeat Size 64 cm

Air Supply 8 Bar

Water Consumptions 4 m3/Hr

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 3. Arioli Loop Ager
 Arioli loop ager is an ageing/steaming machine
which is used for the fixation of the colour of
the printed portion of the fabric.
 Arioli loop ager have the option of curing process
also because it has supply of both source of
energy
i.e., steam and thermic oil.
 There are two loop agers present in the AT-II Unit
manufactured by Arioli which is placed just after
the printing machine.
 The fabric is treated in rope form in an Arioli loop
ager.

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 Technical Specification of Arioli Loop Ager

69
4. TEXFA-3 Curing Machine

 Curing process is done in case of pigment printing

and pigment discharge in order to fix the pigment
over the textile fabric.
 There is only one curing machine present in the AT-
II Unit of TEXFA-3. It has both facility of curing and
steaming but it is not used for the steaming
process.
 The machine is essentially built on a steel frame with
insulation panels containing min wool. Inside the
machine, centrifugal blowers are mounted this
blower’s sucks surrounding air and blow into the
machine chamber. This blowing is done from the
bottom, underneath the heaters. In this way the fresh
air is first heated and then mixed with the circulation
air.

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Technical Specifications Of Curing Machine

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5. Arioli Print Washer Machine

 Arioli has been manufacturing open width continuous

washing machines for more than 40 years.
 Arioli has always dedicated major attention to the
tensionless cloth transportation systems, because of the
high quality of delicate fabrics always manufactured in
the area.
 Arioli washing lines are composed of independent tanks
allowing the insertion of additional elements according
to different needs.
 Modular tanks are equipped with:
(i) Automatic regulations of water flow, with multiple
control of the parameters (in-out, temperature, water
renewal and recirculation).
(ii) Automatic Dosing.
(iii) Automatic adjustment of the fabric tension.
(iv) Load cell and synchronization dancing bar.
(v) pH Control.
(vi) Automatic Cleaning Filter.

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Technical Specification of Arioli Print Washer

1. Standard Recipe of Print Washer (Reactive Single Wash)

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2. Standard Recipe of Print Washer (Discharge)

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6. MCS Rope Print Washer Machine
 MCS rope print washer is used to wash the fabric after
printing. It washes the fabric into rope form. Suitable
for the delicate fabric which doesn’t bear too much
tension.
 There is total 14 chambers in the MCS rope print
washer and just after the washing unit rope opener unit
is fitted to open the fabric into open width for drying.
 The rope opener unit is manufactured by Bianco it
also has a small washing unit to wash out the
remaining surface colour.
 Components Of MCS Rope Print Washer Machine
are given below.
(i)Fabric Inlet
(ii)J-Scray
(iii)Fabric
Guider (iv)Star
Wash
(v)Conveyor
Belt (vi)Rope
Maker
(i) Washing Zone
(viii)Rope Opener
unit

75
76
Technical Specifications of MCS Rope Print Washer

77
7. Yamuna Relax Dryer

 YAMUNA relax dryers are suitable for drying, relaxing

and shrinking of dyed or bleached knitwear and
delicate woven fabrics from cotton, synthetics or wool
and its blends. Fabric is allowed to achieve shrinkage
nearest to residual shrinkage value, bringing soft and
voluminous feel.
 Overfeeding arrangement is provided with a driven
roller at the entry. Overfeeding up to 80% can be easily
achieved. Fabric opening and centering device can be
installed at the entry for open width fabric. For tubular
fabrics, special guiding arrangement is provided to
guide and feed the fabric in single end or side by side
tubular ends. Fabric passes through two layers of wire
meshes glass fibre conveyors. A large volume of hot air
is circulated with the help of specially positioned well
designed jets, with removable nozzles, such that the
fingers of bottom nozzies comes in between the fingers
of top nozzies giving a tumbling action as well as
beating arrangement to the fabric.
 Intermediate beaters can also be provided to
give mechanical to the fabric.
 Working width O: 1600 - 3600 mm.
 Heating Media - Steam / Thermic Oil / Gas / Electrical
 Chamber length 3 mtrs. each.
 Suitable for both open width and tubular fabrics.
 Entry combination can be with Padder, vertical
stenter frame or direct entry into the dryer.

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  For open width Knits and delicate woven fabrics
complete range is provided with driven scroll rollers at
entry, Padders; overfeeding device; Vertical inclined
pin chain with gumming and steaming; relax dryer with
two conveyors and plaiting.
 Can be equipped with residual moisture controller,
exhaust humidity controller and microprocessor
for process control and automation.

79
Introduction Of Quality Assurance Section

 The main goal of the Quality Assurance (QA)

department is to help create a quality product. Their job
is to regular product testing, but to also prevent defects
accordingly. They ensure the high quality of the
development process and its results.
 Two principles included in Quality Assurance are:
(i) ” Fit for purpose”, the product should be suitable for
the intended purpose.
(ii) “Right first time”, mistakes should be eliminated.
 The Quality Assurance department are divided
into various section viz.
(i)Physical Testing.
(ii)Chemical Testing.
(iii)Grouping
Section.
(iv)Inspection.
(v)Folding.

Description Of Different Section of Quality Assurance

1. Grouping Section

 Grouping section are used to separate the bulk of cloth

according to the variation which were produced during
bulk.
 After testing the various parameter, it divides the fabric
into three category which are almost similar.
(i) A Category-Perfect as customer requirement.
(ii) B Category-Clear Under Risk.
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 (iii) C Category-Sold at less price.
 Grouping section checks following parameters on the
basis of which it divides the fabric into groups.

Yarn Dyed Fabric Parameter Print Fabric Parameter

Shade Print Shade
Hand feel Base
Colour Bleeding Hand feel
OBA Penetration
Rubber Mark Print Design
Centre To Selvedge Variation Repeat Length
Pattern Check Centre To Selvedge Variation
Running Shade Variation

2. Physical Testing Lab

 Physical testing department of QA check the physical

parameters to check that the product match with
customer requirements or not.
 Physical testing lab involve the estimation of following
physical parameters.
(i) Absorbency (ix)Tensile Strength
(ii) EPI/PPI (x)Tear Strength
(iii) GSM (xi)Wicking
Height (iv)Pilling
(v)Seam Strength
(vi)Abrasion
Resistance.
(vii)Stretchability.

81
3. Chemical Testing Lab

 Chemical testing lab mainly check the purity of chemical

which were used in bulk production and only limited
amount of fabric test which are very few in numbers.
 The test which is perform in chemical lab in case of both
fabric and chemical are mention below.
(A) Test on Fabric.
(i) Core pH.
(ii) Size %.
(iii) Barium Activity Number
(BAN). (B)Test of Chemical.
(i) ph.
(ii) Solid Content.
(iii)Purity
Percentage.

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83
 4. Inspection
 In inspection department the final checking of the
material before packaging are performed.
 They cross check for every kind of faults by using four-
point system. According to four points system the
defects are classified on the basis of length under four
category which are given below.

84
  There is total 14 inspection machine present in AT-II
unit and 5 mending machines.

Mending
 Mending involves the actual repair of imperfections
such as weaving in a missing warp or weft yarn with a
hand needle and repairing tears, missing prints as well
as small holes.

5. Folding

 Fabric Folding is the process of winding into clean,

stretch-free folded form for easy packaging and
transportation.
 Fabric is folded in to two forms either in roll form or
into pallet form. In order to prevent skewing and
bowing effect some party demands the fabric into a
packet form.
 There is total eight winding machine and four packaging
machines in folding section of AT-II.
 After folding section, the materials are ready for the
commercial dispatch.

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