Technical Sketch

Woven, No Waist Seam, Above Knee, 3/4 Circle, Bust and Waist Darts, No Seam, Center Back
Seam, Wide Deep V-neck, Set In Sleeves, Back Curved Seam with Invisible Zipper, Sleeveless,
Neckline Facing

Sewing Instructions
Sewing Princess Seams on the Front

- With right sides together, pin Side Front sections to side edges of Center Front, matching
notches, then stitch, clipping into curves where necessary. Finish the seam allowances
separately and press open.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Front.
Sewing Princess Seams on the Back

- With right sides together, pin Side Back sections to side edges of Center Back, matching
notches, then stitch, clipping into curves where necessary. Finish the seam allowances
separately and press open.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Back.
Sewing the Shoulders

- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at shoulders, then stitch. Finish the seam
allowances separately and press open.
Sewing Side Seams

- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at Sides, then stitch from armhole down to the hem.
Finish the seam allowances separately and press open.
Sewing Princess Seams on the Front Lining

- With right sides together, pin Side Front sections to side edges of Center Front, matching
notches, then stitch, clipping into curves where necessary. Press open.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Front.

Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the front neck facing, following manufacturer's
instructions.

- Pin the bottom of the Front Neck Facing to the top of the Front Lining right sides together and
stitch. Press seam allowances toward the lining.
Sewing Princess Seams on the Back Lining

- With right sides together, pin Side Back sections to side edges of Center Back, matching
notches, then stitch, clipping into curves where necessary. Press open.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Back.

Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the back neck facing, following manufacturer's
instructions.

- Pin the bottom of the Back Neck Facing to the top of the Back Lining right sides together and
stitch. Press seam allowances toward the lining.
Sewing the Lining Shoulders

- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at shoulders, then stitch. Press open.
Sewing Side Seams of the Lining

- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at Sides, then stitch from armhole down to the hem.
Press open.
Lining Hemming

- Stitch 1/4" (6mm) from lower edge of the garment, using basting stitches and leaving long
thread tail for adjusting the hem. Turn up 7/8" (2 cm) hem, turning in 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.
Pull thread to ease in fullness, then stitch. Press.
Neckline

- With right sides together, pin lining to neck edge of the garment, matching notches, centers and
seams, then stitch.
- Trim lining’s seam allowance to 1/8" (3 mm) and bodice’s neckline seam allowance to 1/4" (5
mm). Clip into the curves.
- Press seams toward the lining.
- Understitch lining, then turn to inside and press.

Setting the Invisible Zipper and Sewing Center Back Seam

Note: Use special invisible zipper foot when stitching invisible zipper. Zipper can be trimmed
(remove the excess zipper length from the bottom, secure the new end of the zipper by stitching
over the zipper teeth using a bar tack).

- Open the zipper. From the wrong side, press the zipper coils flat so that the two rows of
stitching show.
- Open zipper, on outside, pin zipper to one of the opening edges, face down in seam allowance,
placing zipper tape flush with the upper edge of the fabric and zipper teeth on seamline.
- Stitch the open zipper tape close to the teeth, starting at the top of the edge and stitch until foot
meets the zipper pull. Backstitch at the beginning and the end (be careful not to catch the lining).
- Close zipper. Pin remaining zipper tape to the other opening edge, placing zipper teeth on
seamline.
- Open zipper. Stitch close to teeth, until foot meets the zipper pull.
- Close zipper and pin Back sections together below zipper. Position and lower needle slightly
above (about 1/4" (6mm) up) and to the left of zipper stitching. Stitch remainder of Center Back
seam.
- Stitch or hand sew each end of zipper tape to seam allowances, keeping the garment free when
stitching. Turn the Lining inside, slipstitch the top part to the zipper tape and machine stitch the
rest from the inside.

Sewing Armholes

- The neckline is already sewn.

- With lining and garment still wrong sides together, turn in the seam allowances of the armhole
left edges so that right sides are together and pin. Stitch the armholes from the side seam to the
shoulder seam, aligning shoulder seams and matching notches. Notch the lining's seam
allowance 2 mm from stitching line.
- Turn the garment right side out.
- Pin the armhole right edges, right sides together. Stitch the armholes from the side seam to the
shoulder seam, aligning shoulder seams and matching notches. Notch the lining's seam
allowance 2 mm from stitching line.
- Turn the garment right side out. Press armholes.
Hem

- Use a narrow hem at lower edge: turn the hem in, then press. Ease in fullness if necessary. Open
out hem, turn in again so that raw edge is aligned along with the crease, then press. Turn in along
the crease and stitch (pic. 1) or finish the lower raw edge of the garment. Turn up the hem along
the foldline, then hand baste close to the fold, if the fabric does not hold the crease well. Sew
hem in place (pic. 2) Press.