DIY DRESS FORM SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

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FABRIC RECOMMENDATION:

1. Self (Main) fabric: woven non-stretch fabrics with slight drape; upholstery fabrics.

2. Interlining/stabilizer: rigid, non-elastic fabric, heavy (bottom) weight, but not too
thick (i.e. denim fabric, polyester fabric for bags or tents).

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 3. Fusible woven interfacing, fabric based.

SEAM ALLOWANCES:

You may select to include a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance on your pattern. If the
pattern has a double-line contour, then seam allowances are included.

If your pattern has a single-line contour, then seam allowances are not included the
pattern and need to be added during the laying out and cutting of a pattern.

Recommended manually drafted seam allowances: all seams 3/8" (1 cm).

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CUTTING:

Please print and assemble all the paper patterns and lay them out on the width of
the fabric you plan to use (usually from 36" (90 cm) to 59" (150 cm) to see how
much fabric you will actually need. Do not forget to count pair and
symmetrical details.

Some pieces are cut on fold, this is indicated on the pattern piece.

Transfer all notches, darts, pleats etc. from the pattern onto your fabric.

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MATERIALS:

1. Self (Main) fabric:

Small to Large sizes –1 1/4 yards (1.10 m)

Large to Extra Large sizes –1 3/4 yards (1.50 m)
Plus Sizes – 2 1/8 yards (2 m)

2. Fabric based fusible woven interfacing:

Small to Large sizes –1 1/4 yards (1.10 m)

Large to Extra Large sizes –1 3/4 yards (1.50 m)
Plus Sizes – 2 1/8 yards (2 m)

3. Interlining/stabilizer – from 3/4 yards (0.80 m) to 1 1/4 yards (1 m)

4. Cardboard 6 sq.ft (0.6 sq.m).
5. Sponge 3" (8 cm) in height, 7" (18cm) in width and 7" (18 cm) in length.
6. Zipper 7”-9” (18-23 cm) – 2 pieces.
7. Craft glue.
8. Small razor knife.
9. Wooden, plastic or metal coat rack stand. The stand should be cut to reflect your
height. The length of the stand is automatically calculated by the system and is listed
on your pattern. You can also use a pre-manufactured adjustable dress form stand,
which should not be cut. We provided the resources and links where to buy the pre-
manufactured stand and other supplies on the next page. We did not use a pre-
manufactured stand and the process might slightly differ from the proposed by us.
You will need to know the diameter of the pre-manufactured stand and purchase a
plastic tube (next point) to fit over the manufactured stand.
10. Plastic pipe tube, diameter from 1 1/8” (3 cm) to 2” (5 cm). We recommend
buying a 38” long pipe for standard heights and 48” for very tall. You will have to cut
the pipe to the length, recommended on the pattern. This length is automatically
calculated by the system to fit your unique height.
11. Polyester Fiber Fill Poly-Fil: 5lb (2.3 kg) (smaller sizes) to 10lb (4.6 kg) (larger and
plus sizes).

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Below we have attached links to online stores where you can buy the necessary
things.

1. Tripod Dressmaker Form Base

https://rebrand.ly/Tripod-DressmakerForm-Base

2. On this site you will find several types of mannequin

stands. These bases are easy to use.
https://rebrand.ly/Dress-Form-Stands

3. Wooden Coat Rack Stand. You will need an upgrade to

use this base. Yes, it's not an easy path, but the DIY
experience is worth it. You can also use an old coat stand
as a base for a dress form.
https://rebrand.ly/Wooden-CoatRack-Stand

4. Fairfield PF-5 Poly-Fil Premium Fiber White.

https://rebrand.ly/Poly-Fil-PremiumFiber

5. Polyester Fiber Fill.

https://rebrand.ly/Polyester-Fiber-Fill

6. Many of our customers use material like this as a lining

to avoid the effect of clumps.
https://rebrand.ly/FIX-FoamInterfacing-for-Sewing

7. Check out these links below to find the most

convenient way for you to purchase the plastic pipe tube
for your dress form.
https://rebrand.ly/Clear-PVC-Pipe

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 https://rebrand.ly/Clear-PVC-Schedule-40-Pipe

https://rebrand.ly/Clear-Schedule40-Rigid-PVC-Pipe

https://rebrand.ly/Furniture-Grade-PVC-Pipe

For the stand, we used an old coat hanger, 2'' (5 cm) in diameter and cut it to the
length specified on the pattern.

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PATTERN PIECES:
All pattern pieces are marked and numbered, as listed below.
Main (Self) Interfaced Fabric:
1. Upper Center Front, cut 2
2. Upper Side Front, cut 2
3. Center Cup, cut 2
4. Side Cup, cut 2
5. Lower Center Front, cut 2
6. Lower Side Front, cut 2
7. Center Back, cut 2
8. Side Back, cut 2
9. Armhole Cover, cut 2
10. Neck, cut 1
11. Neck top, cut 1
12. Back Base Support Cover, cut 2
13. Front Base Support Cover, cut 2
Interlining/stabilizer:
9 . Armhole Cover, cut 2
14. Front Inner Support, cut 2
15. Back Inner Support
16. Pipe Sleeve, cut 1

Cardboard:

14. Base Support Cardboard, cut 1

15. Armhole Cardboard, cut 2

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TECHNICAL ILLUSTRATION:

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PATTERN LAYOUT:

Pattern layout example on 55” fabric, on fold.

FABRIC IS ON FOLD

IMPORTANT NOTES:
1. When sewing please pay attention to the types of notches you are joining,
they must be identical and match. Several types of notches are used throughout
the pattern. This is done to clarify and simplify the construction process.
2. Although , on the pattern notches are indicated on the sewing line, they should
always be cut only into the seam allowance.
3. Your pattern will have a slight negative ease. It is due to fabric stretching a little
when the stuffing is too dense. You can control the measurements of the dress form
by adjusting the density and amount of stuffing.
Tip 1:
1. Measure your circumferences often, as you stuff the dress. To reduce the
measurement, remove some Poly-Fil untill you reach the correct number.
2. To increase, add more Poly-Fil - the fabric will stretch a little, as you stuff the
filling more densely.
Tip 2:
1. Use a small 3/32'' (2-2.2 mm) stitch length on your sewing machine.
2. Clip and notch inner and outer seams.
3. Open and press all seams, except for arm and neck seams.
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You must pre-shrink all fabrics. Wash the main fabric, fusible interfacing and
interlining/stabilizer in hot water (unless specified otherwise by the manufacturer),
lay flat and dry.

Apply fusible interfacing to the fabric before cutting.

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SEWING INSTRUCTIONS:
DRESS FORM COVER

1. Pin and stitch the Center Back pieces to the Side Back pieces, matching notches.

Clip into seam every 1 5/8” (4 cm), press seams open.

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2. Pin and stitch Side Cups to the Center Cups and Lower Side Fronts to the Lower
Center Fronts, matching notches.

Clip into seam every 1 5/8” (4 cm), press seams open.

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3. Pin and stitch Upper Side Fronts to the Upper Center Fronts, matching notches.

Clip into curves, press seams open.

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4. Pin and stitch the cups to the lower fronts, matching notches and princess seams.

OPTIONAL: To outline the contour of the cups on the dress form, you can topstitch
the curved cup seams using a zigzag stitch, from the face side, pressing seam
allowances open.

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5. Sew upper front pieces to the lower front pieces.
OPTIONAL: Hand sew along the lines of Underbust, Waist and Hips on the back
and front; however, on the back you can also sew along the back bust line. This
outlines the key horizontal points of measure. Staystitch 3/8” (8 mm from the edge
around the front and back armholes.

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Clip into curves, press seams open.

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6. OPTIONAL: To outline the Bust, Waist, Hips lines t opstitch from the face
side (using zigzag stitch) along the hand-sewn lines. Prior to topstitching,
press open seams on the front bust line. Make sure to keep it open when
topstitching.

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7. Pin and stitch the front center seam, carefully matching zigzagged lines.

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8. Clip into corners of the front and back princess seams. Pin and stitch shoulder
seams.

9. Staystitch at 3/8” (8 mm) from the edge around the neckline. Clip to staystitching,
keeping clips about 5/8” (1.5 cm) apart.

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10. Staystitch from the edge along the upper edge of the Neck. Pin and stitch the
Neck to the neckline.

Clip into curves, open and press seams.

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11. Pin and stitch center back seam, carefully matching zigzagged lines.

12. Clip to the staystitching, keeping clips about 5/8” (1.5 cm) apart.

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Pin the Neck Top to the Neck, matching notches and stitch.

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 Trim the seam allowances to 1/8” (5 mm).

13. Pin Armhole Covers to the armholes, matching at the notches. Clip to the
staystitching of the armholes, keeping clips about 5/8” (1.5 cm) apart.

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Sew the Armhole Covers to the armholes.

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14. Start to baste the interlining/stabilizer Armhole Covers to the Armhole Covers,
insert the Cardboard Armhole matching notches. Finish basting and stitch.

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INNER SUPPORT:

1. Stitch the Pipe Sleeve from the top fold to the lower notches along the edges.

2. Insert the plastic tube into the Pipe Sleeve. Please make sure that it glides in and
out of the Pipe Sleeve easily. Cut the lower, unsewn edge of the Pipe Sleeve into
the 3/4” wide fringe as shown below.

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3. Place the Front Inner Support piece on top of the Pipe Sleeve’s edge, matching
notches; pin and stitch along the edge.

4. Place the Back Inner Support piece on top of the other Pipe Sleeve’s edge,
matching notches. Pin and stitch along the edge. Turn out the back pieces.

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Staystitch front and back inner support pieces with random vertical lines, to
reinforce the fabric.

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If the diameter of your plastic tube is less than 2” (5cm), reduce the opening of the
sleeve by stitching along the narrower lines marked on the pattern, specifying the
diameter. Please make sure that there is a 25/64” (1cm) extra space around the
tube to have it glide easily inside the pipe sleeve.

Place the pattern pieces on top of the correlate details to double check the notches.
It is very important that they match.

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DRESS FORM STUFFING:

1. Fold the finished cover as shown below. Back on the top and Front on the
bottom of the image. Try to flatten it as much as you can.

Clip into curves at the center back seam repeating at 1 5/8” (4 cm).

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Start pinning the Inner Support center back seam to the cover center back seam.
Make sure that both pieces have open flat seams facing each other, while being
pinned.
Pin the Inner Support center front seam to the cover front center seam opening the
seams. Make sure that both pieces have open flat seams facing each other, while
being pinned. Match the bust lines, waist lines and hip lines of the both pieces.

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Clip into the front center seam allowance at the neck.

Stitch the Inner Support piece to the cover along the stitch lines. Clip into the curves
on the Inner Support.

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2. Pin the Neck top pattern to the sponge. Using the razor knife and scissors cut
out the round neck shape from the sponge.

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Push in the neck inside the body of the dress form’s cover, forming a cup. Insert the
sponge neck form into the neck.

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3. Staystitch the pieces of the Back Base Support Cover and Front Base Support
Cover along the straight sides and around the semi-circular cut-out in the center as
shown below.

Trim and clip into the curves, as shown.

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Turn right side out and press.

Turn under zipper’s ends and stitch.

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Baste zippers to the base support finished edges, as shown, connecting front and
back pieces together. Use a zipper foot to assist in stitching close to the zipper’s
teeth. Machine stitch up to and backstitch at lower end of the zipper opening.

Trim off the extra zipper length, if any.

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Staystitch 3/8” (8 mm) from the edge around the cover’s lower edge. Pin the zipped
base support cover to the dress form lower edge, matching notches. Clip into the
curves of the dress form’s lower edge.

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Stitch the base support cover to the dress form cover. Turn the base cover right
side out.

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4. Insert the trimmed plastic pipe tube into the Pipe Sleeve. Stuff the dress form
firmly from the neck to the bottom. To avoid lumps, stuff small portions at a time.
Periodically check that you are keeping the center back and center front lines
straight. Make sure to stuff the breasts very firmly.

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5. Insert the cardboard base support into the bottom of the dress form, pull out the
pipe sleeve fringe through the center hole and glue the fringe onto the cardboard.
Wait for the glue to dry before continuing.

Finish stuffing the dress form through the extra oval holes in the cardboard base
support; then zip the dress form.

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DRESS FORM STAND:
We are using an old coat rack with a tripod stand. If you are using a pre-
manufactured dress form stand, you can skip to the step where you place the dress
form on the stand.

6. Remove the hooks from the coat hanger, if there are any. Measure and mark the
stand height, to the length written on the Pipe Sleeve pattern (from the floor) and
cut to length.

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Place the dress form on the stand, sliding it down inside the plastic tube until the
top of the stand touches the neck and cannot be moved any further.

Thank you for purchasing this pattern! We hope that you enjoy
your new dress form. Please share your finished project on
BootstrapFashion facebook page at:

https://www.facebook.com/MylinegoFashionDesignGenius/

For more custom-fit patterns and unique fashion and sewing

pattern design tools, please visit:

http://patterns.bootstrapfashion.com

License: This pattern has non-exclusive Commercial and Personal

Use License. You can sell finished dress forms, made using this
pattern, in unlimited quantities for profit. However, the pattern
cannot be re-sold or shared.

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