The document details the construction of the Spacewalker aircraft model designed by Jesse Angin, including specifications, materials, and assembly instructions. It emphasizes the importance of weight management for flight performance and provides a step-by-step guide for building various components such as wings, fuselage, and tail unit. The author shares personal experiences and tips for achieving a successful build and flight experience with the model.
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Spacewalker Oz5971 Article RCMW
The document details the construction of the Spacewalker aircraft model designed by Jesse Angin, including specifications, materials, and assembly instructions. It emphasizes the importance of weight management for flight performance and provides a step-by-step guide for building various components such as wings, fuselage, and tail unit. The author shares personal experiences and tips for achieving a successful build and flight experience with the model.
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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SPACEWALKER
Staite a cu tone
aircraft designedby Jesse Angin
who formed Country Air Inc. in North
Carolina, USA. Being a member of
the Experimental Aircraft Associa~
tion, | received their monthly
magazine Sport Aviation, and it was
inthis magazine that fist saw apc
‘ure of Spacewalker when itmade its
debut at Ostkosh in 1986. It really
attracted me, and | thought with its
striking colou scheme, made the ar-
craft a perfect subject for a super
model, A number of letters, plus a
telephone cal were necessary to get
the information, but | finaly had all
that was required to make a start
this was in Sept-Oct '87. | really
needed to keep the weight below our
111s limit, not only to be able to fly
in Windsor Great Fark, but tobe able
topoweritwitrasaor 1 twostroke
engine. Since | the large mode's, |
‘chose 316 inches to 1 foot, giving a
91 inch span and chord of 15% in
ches almost 10 scuare feet of wing
If 1 could keep the weight around 10
lbs we were lookrg at 16 07 sq{00t
wing loading. | didi! All models fy
better if they are lighter (within
reason of course) remember gliders
have about 9-12 oz per sqoot, so
we are not really looking ata paper
ag, just a lightly loadec scale
model, that will fly at a realistic
speed, and be adquately powered
with any sport 61. | powered mine
with a Merco 61, areal favourite of
SA
The built up assembly makes for a
strong and light structure.
mine for many years. This model
handles well, and is @ grat crowd
pleaser. If you are interested, here's
how to build it
MBBS start with the wings
') These are quite conventional cut ll
the bs as shown (nate thatthe main
spar poston onthe left wing i Ye
RC Model World, November 1988SPACEWALKER
A gorgeous 91 inch
span scale model
for 4 function radio
contro] and .61
two-stroke engines
designed by
Dennis Tapstfield.SPACEWALKER
so that they wil ovetap in the
centre}. Buld each wing over the
drawing in the usel way, ignoring
the ailerons at tis point jst build
the complete wing; when the spars
axe i, rol the wing ono the lower
traling edge, and uetherisinpos-
itn; when se, add the top portion
of the trang edge, With the leading
ge in place, the structure is
reasonably iniegl, so remove it
from the plan, andtien add webbing
between the spars, the top and bt-
tom leading edge spars, lst the
leading edge sinh sheet covering
Tho best way stomake up the whole
piece with tre inch wie shets
fg glued to produc a sheet 8x
40 inches. you ae not sure how to
make up the skis, proceed as fol
lows:— trim the edges ofthe inch
shoot balsa, wih astaight edge and
balsa kif, but the edges close o-
gether, and cover the joint wih Se
letape (inch is OK) for the ful
length). Open the joint tke a book,
ve the exposed edges (ake sure
{hat the gue you ase wil sand easiy
— balsa coment is OK) close the
Joint, remove the excess gue and
Seltape over tha side. When com-
pletely cry, wet the conve ouside
surface of the sheet with 50/50
household ammosa and water, and
amply white alue to the ribs, spars
ad leacng edge, where the shet
Will contact. Wrap the leading edge
Ys inch sheet covering around the
leading edge, and holdin pace with
"inch or % inch wide Sellotape on
each rib by wrapping arcund from
top to bottom. When you have done
this, immediately place the wing
back onto the plan, withthe Ye x Ye
inch packing n place underthe wing
toproduce the washout you wlfind
you can twist the wing othe corect
Position before the glue sets, got it
Fight, as the wing is very trsionally
stitf when ais dry. Next cu the bs
in the alleron area to size, add the
aileron spar, cap strips ete. Com-
Plete the wing with the aileron servo
and push rods, hor etc; the tip is
made from laminations of ¥ inch
sheet hollowed out and shaped as
per drawing, the wing cleaned up,
the aileron separatec, and hinged in
place. I do not glue in the hinges at
this time, not until the wing is co-
vere
Fuselage
Bul theses onthe drawing using
ery hard balsa Ye» inch forthe
longerons and medium forthe re-
mainder. Cutthefrewal rm Ysinoh
iy, remove the cente andbuld out
the box to cary the engine mount,
making sur that th amourt the box
protrudes suts your engiemount
combination. rack he topand bot-
tom longerons at 8-81 an¢ jon the
sides, starting at the fewal in the
Usual way. Ft the mm ly wing
mounts inside the fuselage, fush
withthe bottom lngerons, isis im-
portant as it controls te ving in
dence. Make sure eventhing is
square, and complete the fuselage
to drawing. Note tha the tp longe-
ronis tapered off to provide postive
incidence onthe steblisr. ri the
landing gear mount ‘A’ bette glue-
ing iin, this is important. is now
time to make and bott the landing
gear in place. Go over the drawing
careuly to meke sue alte bits are
inl Don't fo-get apiece of nylon tube
forthe reaver antenna inside the
fuselage! Nake the cow from lami-
nations of 1 inch balsa, shape 25
show, buiding onto the inch ply
former, dil holes for access to glow
plug and carburettor needle ete tis
8 good idea to have the engine and
spinner ited at tis imo, to ine ev
eything up arazor planes ver use-
{ul too, there's a ot of wood to cut
away. Tho dummy engine is wall
worth takrg a bt of trouble wih,
made the Gyinders trom Jeluton,
but hard balsa or someting similar
willbe OK. Saw cuts simulate the
fins. The rookar covers aro cast in
resin, | made a mode in pasticine,
mounted iton as inch ply base the
shape of the cover, coated it with
clear dope when dy, brushed ona
fim of Vaselire to prevent the layer
‘of siicone bat» sealant rom sticking
to it coat the whale thing with bath
sealant; leave to dy for 48 hrs. The
resuitis a good mouldinto which you
Pour the mixed resin A Ye x 8x He
inch piece of balsa reduces weight
and provides a suface to stick to if
pushed down fushn theresin, abar
laid across the top ofthe mould will
oop itn place,
Tail Unit
This is quit straigtforward, though
perhaps | should explain the lami-
nated rudder autine and tip, it wil
be found easier if you, having cut the
laminations, insert a row of pins on
the inside (this is important) of the
‘curve, gv th laninations together
with PVA (whe) gle and whilst wet
‘RC Model World, November 1968wrap the uni around the pins, plac-
ing pins around the outside as you
99, and leave the whole thing to set;
the result is aight, very strong out-
line, better than any other way |
know. The restis simple enough, just
‘don't build in ary warps! Use epoxy
to fit the homs, rough them up wall
here the epoxy holds.
‘No doubt you can now start o get
the whoo thing together to soe what
itlooks lke. Thisis the time | get the
radio installed, together with the
‘cable runs for the rudder and
elevator, the closed loop system
works wel, | usad the lager T arm
‘on my Flet seros, they work very
well Both my Fhet PCM and the 35
‘meg FM system handle the ong ex-
tension leads required for each aile-
ron servo perfectly well, make sure
that your radio doesnot object to the
long leads, sorre makes require @
choke to overcome gltching, the im
Porterimanufacturer will no. doubt
know about this. Check thatthe su-
face movements are correct to the
drawing. The throttle servo is
‘mounted on an alleron servo tray on
the left inside te cockpit just for-
Ward of the insrument panel, and
fairy high up, you may have tore-lo-
Cate yours depending onthe engine.
‘The battery is pushed into a cavity
cutinto apiece of hard reconstituted
foam beside the fuel tank, the re-
ceiver ison a shel above the servos
in the fuselage, pushed into a cavity
cut into a block of soft foam glued
to the top ofthe shef, an extension
forthe on-off switch sa wie carried
forward into the cockpit area. Re~
‘member you may have to re-locate
the battery depending onthe cere
of gravity requirements.
‘The spats re vacuum formed ABS
and are trimmed to th lines to be
seen inside the mouldings, and can
be best fitted togetter with cyano,
Reinforce te inside facesforleft and
right with ABS offeus, and fit the
‘mounting plates; the pips on the
‘mauidings show the axe positon
‘Small fingers of ABS cyanoed inside
leach half keep the edges in ine for
final joining with cyano. These wheel
spats areavalabe ram me and can
bbe contacted via Radio Control
‘Model World
Covering
Note: The Registration and Colour
‘Scheme as shown is Authentic
Mymodel was coveredusingred(not
Fokker Red) Solarspan or Black
Baron fim. The rim design looks cif-
ficult, but gone about the ight way,
{is reasonably easy; you should cut
cut the trim shapes, lay them in pos-
ition on the model, and mark their
Positions using a ball pont pen.
Mask of around the shapes the tape
shouid lie onthe area that isto be
red). | did not mask the round por-
tions, since as | was brushing the
black Solariac | could paint around
them. When the paint is touch dry,
remove the masking tape, and allow
to dry completely. Meanwhie, cut a
lot of 4s inch wide strips of white
Solartrim, by taping the sheet onto a
board use a stel straight edge and
balsa knife. The rounded aortons
must be cut to shape, | usec a balsa
knife biade in a par of compasses,
it worked out OK, and it stcks ke
the provorbill Just ne thing, ry not
tohandle the adhesive surface more
than you can help, | found that a pair
of tweezers was most helful. The
undercarriage i covered i wth Sol
artex and painted black. The spats
are first painted red (matchirg Solar-
lac Red (S) 8X) when dry, mark on
the shape ofthe trin, mask of, and
paint with black enamel. The Mis inch
‘white lines are cut irom Solarrim to
the correct shape, using win blades
Ys inch apart (see Solartriminstruc-
tions). The trim shapes forthe fn and
stabliser are cut drect fron Solar-
‘tim and stuck on. For registration
letters | used 72 point Letraset on
white Solarrim, which were cut out
leaving the white border, the whole
thing then stuck onto the rudder. It
worked out perfectly. Now check out
the balance point, do get this right,
a tle nose heavy is better than tail
heavy. Youcan now add the screen,
the cockpitcoaming and other exter-
nal details; he instrument panel con-
sists ofa piace of scraper board be-
hind the apertures inthe 4 nch ply
facing, withthe instruments marked
‘on with a pointed instrument.
Fiying
‘Choose a iy large propeller forthe
‘model, the Merco is quite happy to
swing @ 13x 6, and produces more
than enough power forthe model.
Take off is very realistic, and the
climb-out is good, The speed en-
elope is very large, the model can
be flown very slowiy, yet on full
ower is suprisingly fast and man-
‘euvrable, oops, rolls, and inverted
flight are all’ well within its
capabiities, and smooth siow land-
ings are the ru rather than the ex-
ception. | do hope you enjoy the
bulding and fling ofthis unusual i-
craft as much as | have. Good luck
with your project. Happy Landings.
oO