9

CLOTH ESTIMATION

9.1 INTRODUCTION
Before embarking on garment construction it is important to have an estimate of the cloth
requirement. This depends upon the width of the fabric. It is essential to know how much
of cloth will be needed for a particular garment so that a suitable length can be bought
before garment construction is started.

9.2 OBJECTIVES
After reading this lesson, you will be able to :
• give a correct estimate of cloth according to the width of the fabric;
• explain why it is necessary to estimate cloth requirement before garment
construction.

9.3 CLOTH REQUIREMENT

1. Good fitting
If cloth is bought without proper estimation, it could be too lessor too much for
the garment to be made. It is more then there will be wastage. Ifit is less, itwill
become difficult to make the garment. Even if the garment is made somehow, the
fitting will be affected - the resultant garment many not be a well fitting one.
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2. Good design
Sometimes a design requires more cloth than plain garment would need. Hence
it becomes essential to estimate the cloth that would be needed for the garment.

3. Saves money
If excess cloth is bought then there is a wastage of money. If the cloth bought is
less then also one has to spend extra money in buying more cloth. Hence, prior
cloth estimation helps one to save money.

4. Saves time
When cloth is bought after estimation, one knows exactly how to cut the various
pieces of the garment and no time is wasted. Hence cloth estimation saves time.

5. Ease of working
When cloth is bought after estimation one can easily cut it and stitch it without
worrying as to how to do th~ work.

9.4 CLOTH ESTIMATION FOR GARMENTS

Fabrics are available in different widths in the market. Cloth estimation for any garment
depends upon the width -less cloth of wider width will be needed and more cloth of
narrow width will be needed for the same measurements. The cloth estimation for various
garments is done as follows -

Children's garments

1. Jangia
The cloth to be used for makingjangia should be soft. Generally jangia is made of new
cloth.

Cloth estimation
For fabric of70 em width

19 em x + 2.5 x 2

= 38 + 5 = 43 em.

One has to buy 43 em of cloth for the jangia.

 Cloth Bstimatton»: 91

2. Frock
Frocks are of various kinds and need different amount of cloth, such as :-

i) Plain frock
The bodice and the skirt are equal in length. After cutting the bodice pieces, two
lengths of skirt and one~length of sleeve, the collar pieces are eut from the side.

Measurements

Chest=60em

Sleeve = 13 em

Across shoulder = 28 em

Full length = 55 em

Length of skirt = 30 em

Cloth estimation

Width of cloth = 90 cm

Length of skirt x 2 + turning + length ofbodiee x 2 + seam

30x2 + 8x2 + 25x2 + 2x2

=60+ 16+50+4 = 130 em

Note: The sleeve and collar will be cut from the side.

Width of cloth = 114 em

Skirt length x 2 + turning + length of bodice +length of sleeve

ii) Yoke frock

/ The bodice piece is very small in a yoke frock. The length of the bodice is subtracted
from the length of the skirt.

Width of cloth = 90 em

- Skirt length x 2 + yoke length x 2 + seam + turning

,,- ,~

Note: The sleeve and collar will be cut from the side
"
 . "

Cloth Estimation:: 93

Measurements
..
Round chest = 92 em Shoulder to dart ;:= 25 em

Round waist = 72 em Sleeve .length = 15 em

Across shoulder = 36 em Full length = 36 em

/

Across chest = 30 em Round arm = 31 em

Dart to dart = 19 em

Cloth estimation
Width of cloth = 90 em

Length of blouse x 2 + turning + seam

36 x 2 + 4 x 2 + 2x 1

= 72 + 8 + 2 = 82 em

Width of cloth = 114 em

~ -
1 length of blouse + 1 sleeve length + hem
. -'.
2. Ladies shirt
If the flair is less then the ladies shirt can be made from cloth ofless width. If the flair is
more then some cloth is left from the sides after cutting two lengths of the shin. lienee .
+
amount of cloth needed will be (2 xlength 2xturning + 1" for shoulders). The fashion
nowadays is for flaired shirts.

Width of cloth = 90 em

Length of shirt x 2 + hem x 2 + 1 sleeve length + seam

3. Salwar
The width ofthe salwar varies from narrow to wide according to the prevalent fashion.
Different lengths of cloth will be needed for different types of salwars.

i) 2 msalwar

This is a single panel salwar. 2 m cl?th is sufficient to make a salwar?f36".

- Width of cloth = 90 em

2 x salwar length + belt + seam.

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h) Belt salwar
A separate broad belt is attached at the top and this kind of salwar can be made
withless cloth. The length of belt is subtracted from the full length of the salwar.
This allows a wider flair in the salwar,

Cloth estimation

Width of cloth = 90 em

2 x length of salwar - belt + seam

Width of cloth = 70 em

2 x length of salwar + seam + belt

ill) 1% m salwar

If the length ofthe salwar is to be 36" then one has to buyI Y2m of cloth for it.
In effect one needs cloth which is 1Y2times the length of salwar.

Cloth estimation

Width of cloth = 70 em

I Y2 x length of salwar + turning +seam

4. Nighty

Nighty can be made of various designs - using lace, collars, smocking, etc. One.has to
buy extra cloth according to the design.

Cloth estimation

Width of cloth = 70 to 90 em

2 x length of nighty + 2 x turning + 1 sleeve length + turning

Note: The width of the nighty will be less in cloth of 70 em' width.

Gents garments

1. Gents shirt
Gents shirt can be made in two ways - full open and half open. The estimation of cloth
in both cases will be the same.
 ClothEstimation :: 95

Measurements -
Round chest = 90cm

Length = 77 em

Sleeve length = 60 em
Cloth estimation

Width of cloth = 90 em
2 x length of shirt + 1 sleeve + turning + seam.

77 x 2 + 60 + 4 + 2 = 154+60+4+2 = 220 em,

Note: The collar, cuffs, yoke, pocket, etc will be cut from the sides.

2. Kurta
Kurta are also of various kinds like Nehru kurta, Kalidar kurta, bengali kurta, etc. The
estimation of cloth for Nehru kurta and bengali kurta is the same but different for the
kalidar kurta,

i) Nehru kurta
This kurta is made with a placket and pockets.

Width of cloth = 90 em

2xlengthofkurta + turning + seam + 1 sleeve length + turning + seam.

Note: The placket and pockets will be cut from the side.

ii) Kalidar Kurta

This kurta is made with "kali" or panels at the side.

Width of cloth = 90 em

2 x length of cloth + 4 x round sleeve + hem

The panels can be cut from the side but with a cloth of smaller width, the length
ofthe kali also has to be bought.

3. Pyjama
Pyjama are also of various kinds. Although the cloth estimation is same for most
types of pyjamas but it is different for the churidar pyjama.
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i) Pant cut pyjama

Width of clotli= 90 em
2 x length + belt + turning

Note: If pockets are to be made then the round button is kept smaller and the
pockets are cut from the side.

ii) Plain pyjama

Width of cloth = 90cm

2xlength + belt + turning

iii) Churidar pyjama

This is also made in different ways - by making a bag and without making a bag.
They are also known as 'dhingri cut' and 'samosa cut' pyjamas.
Width of cloth = 90cm

1Y2 x length of pyjama + turning + belt + folds (churi)

Note: If more churis are desired, more cloth will be needed.

4. Knicker
Width of cloth = 70cm

2 x length ofknickes + 2 x turning + seam.

Note: The.fly and belt will be cut from the side.

Width of cloth = 1i4 em .
·'-1 length ofknicker + turning + seam.

Note: The same-amount of cloth will be needed for 70 (:m and 90 em width of
cloths.
Hence we can see that estimation of cloth is extremely important. The best way to do cloth
estimation is by doing a layout ofthe garment. In this way suitable length of cloth can be
bought resulting in a well fitting garment and no wastage. ' -
9.4 WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNT
In this lesson you have learnt about the need for cloth estimation and how to do it for
different garments with different widths of cloth.
 Cloth Estimation :: 97

9.5 TERMINAL EXERCISE

1. Why is it necessary to estimate cloth requirement according to the width ofthe
cloth? How will you do cloth estimation for the following :-

i) Frock

it) Ladies blouse

iii) Gents shirt

2. What are button holes used for and how many types of button holes are there? .

3. Distinguish between the followings:

v'
a) Dart and pleat

b) Tucks and seams

9.13 ANSWERS TO iN TEXT QUESTIONS

9.1 i) True ii)True iii)False iv)True

9.2 i) Meet Pleat ii) Shell tucks

iii) Scout shirt, skirt iv) False pleat v) Tucks