Spinning

Spinning in the garment industry transforms raw fibers into yarn through processes like carding,
drawing, and twisting. This prepares fibers for weaving or knitting into fabric, making it the
crucial first step in textile production.
Aman Group has two separate cotton and polyester-blended yarn-spinning mills, with 30960
and 60000 spindles, respectively, making it one of the largest spinning mills in the country.
The spinning mills are AMAN COTTON FIBROUS LIMITED and ANWARA MANNAN TEXTILE MILLS
LTD. AMAN COTTON FIBROUS LIMITED only produces cotton fiber, while ANWARA MANNAN
TEXTILE MILLS LTD produces both cotton and blended fibers.
Since the management of AMAN COTTON FIBROUS LIMITED and ANWARA MANNAN TEXTILE
MILLS LTD. are fully separate, I did my internship on AMAN COTTON FIBROUS LIMITED only. I
just got an opportunity to visit ANWARA MANNAN TEXTILE MILLS LTD. since they are both sister
concerns of Aman Group.

Layout Plan:

Fig: Layout of AMAN COTTON FIBROUS LIMITED

Flow-Chart of a Spinning Mill:

Fig: Flow-Chart of Spinning

Description of Machinery:
1. Blow Room:
The blow room is the first step of yarn production in the spinning mills. Bales are taken to the
blow room and prepared for the process.

Fig: Blow-Room Floor

The objective of Blow Room:

• Opening
• Cleaning
• Dust removal
• Blending
• Even feed of material to the card.
Flow-Chart of Blow-Room:

Fig: Flow-Chart of Blow-Room

The description of the blow room line of the mill is given below-

i. Bale Opener
Manufacturer Trützschler
Model BO-A-2300
Year 2007
Origin Country Germany
Production Rate Up to 1600kg/hr
No of Bales/Lines 180/3
No of Machine 1
Function: To pluck fiber from bales

Fig: Trützschler BO-A-2300 Bale Opener

ii. Metal Detector

Manufacturer Trützschler
Model SP-EM
Year 2007
Origin Country Germany
Production Rate Up to 2000kg/hr
No of Machine 1
Function: Electronically controlled metal
separation

Fig: Trützschler SP-EM Metal Detector

iii. Pre-Cleaner

Manufacturer Trützschler
Model CL-P
Year 2007
Origin Country Germany
No of Machine 1
Function: Pre-Cleaning by Beating and Opening

Fig: Trützschler CL-P Pre-Cleaner

iv. Multi-Mixer

Manufacturer Trützschler
Model MX-U-10
Year 2006
Origin Country Germany
Chamber 10 chambers for up to 2.000 kg/h
Production Rate 1000-1400 kg/hr
Raw Material Cotton
No of Machine 1
Function: Storage of the cotton with proper mixing & Pressure sensing
 Fig: Trützschler MX-U-10 multi-Mixer

v. Fire-Detector

Manufacturer Argus
Model AD-50E
Year 2011
Origin Country USA
No of Machine 1
Function: To prevent damage from
sparks and metal parts in blow-
room transport ducts.

Fig: Argus AD-50E Fire-Detector

vi. Final Cleaner

Manufacturer Trützschler
Model CL-C3
Year 2007
Origin Country Germany
Production Rate 570 kg/hr
Raw Material Cotton
No of Machine 1
Function: Optimum removal of
trash, 3 cleaning rolls:
combination of spiked, coarse,
medium, & fine saw-tooth rolls

Fig: Trützschler CL-C3 Final Cleaner

vii. Jossi Magic Eye

Manufacturer Uster
Model Jossi Magic Eye
Year 2008
Origin Country Switzerland
Production Rate 1200 kg/h
No of Machine 1
Function: Ensures no foreign
matter can hide undetected inside
cotton tufts

Fig: Uster Jossi Magic Eye MI-1200

viii. Condenser
Manufacturer Trützschler
DUSTEX SP-
Model
DX
Year 2007
Origin Country Germany
Production Rate 570 kg/hr
No of Machine 1
Function: High-efficiency micro-
dust separator at the end of the
cleaning line installation, Useful
for OE and air-jet yarn
applications

Fig: Trützschler DUSTEX SP-DX Condenser

 2. Carding
The carding machine is often referred to as the "Heart of Spinning" because the quality of the yarn is
heavily dependent on its performance. This machine plays a crucial role in the spinning process by
removing neps, short fibers, and impurities from the raw material. The carding action occurs through the
interaction between the flat and cylinder components of the machine. The precision of various setting
points within the carding machine is vital for optimal performance. It efficiently transforms small tufts of
fiber into a continuous sliver, laying the foundation for producing high-quality yarn.

Objectives of Carding:

• Further opening and cleaning.

• Neps removal.
• Fiber individualization, straightening, and parallelization.
• Web formation.
• Cleaning of heavy particles by stripping and carding action.
Machine Specification:

Manufacturer Trützschler
Model TC03 TC07 TC11
Year 2007 2007 2008
Origin Country Germany
Production Speed 55.8 kg/hr 56.4 kg/hr 58.5 kg/hr
No of Machine 12 1 1

Fig: Trützschler TC03 Carding Machine

 3. Breaker Draw Frame
Card slivers are fed into the breaker draw frame, where multiple slivers are combined to reduce
irregularities. While more doubling improves uniformity, it also increases draft, which can cause
unevenness. Therefore, maintaining an optimal balance between doubling and drafting is
crucial.
Objectives:

• To straighten the crimped, curled, and hooked fibers.

• To make the fiber parallel to their neighbors.
• To improve the uniformity of fibers by drafting and doubling.
• To reduce weight per length unit of sliver.
• To remove dust from slivers.
• To blend raw material of the same hank perfectly.

Features:
• Auto doffing
• Auto stop motion
• Problem indicating lamp signals
• More uniform sliver by doubling and drawing
• Making more parallel fiber.

Machine Specification:
Manufacturer Rieter
Model SB-D 14
Year 2007
Origin Country Switzerland
Drafting system 4 over 3
Delivery Speed 700m/min
No. of Sliver Input 8
No. of Head 1
No. of Machine 4

Fig: Rieter SB-D 14 Breaker Draw Frame

 4. Finisher Draw Frame

This machine is used for carded and combed yarn, feeding the slivers into the finisher draw
frame. Any faults during this stage cannot be corrected in later processes. The key difference
between the breaker and finisher draw frame is the auto leveler, which helps average out sliver
mass variations by correcting up to ±25% of the variation. The scanning roller detects any
unevenness in the sliver and sends signals to the servo motor for adjustment, ensuring excellent
short, medium, and long-term evenness. In this process, 8 doublings are typically performed.
Objectives

• Uncurl and straighten hooked and curled fibers

• Align fibers with their neighboring fibers
• Use drafting and doubling to improve the uniformity of the fibers
• Use drafting to lengthen and straighten slivers

Machine Specification:

Manufacturer Rieter
Model RSB-D 40
Year 2007
Origin Country Switzerland
Drafting system 4 over 3
Delivery Speed 600m/min
No. of Sliver Input 8
No. of Head 1
No. of Machine 5

Fig: Rieter RSB-D 40 Finisher Draw Frame

Fig: Rieter RSB-D 40 Finisher Draw Frame

 5. Lap Former
The lap former is essential in producing combed yarn, as quality laps are crucial for effective
combing. It creates faultless lap sheets by evenly distributing fibers across the entire width of
the lap, ensuring a consistent and smooth preparation for the combing process.

Objectives:

• To improve the evenness of the lap by doubling of slivers.

• To create a parallel arrangement of fibers in the lap by drafting slivers.
• To compensate for the raw material variations by the doubling of slivers.
• To remove dust within the overall process by suction.
• To make lap by calendaring

Machine Specification:
Manufacturer Rieter
Model E-32
Year 2007
Origin Country Switzerland
Drafting system 3 over 3
Delivery Speed 95m/min
Nep per Min 400
No. of Machine 2

Fig: Rieter E-32 Lap Former

 6. Comber
Combing is the process for better quality of combed yarn. To upgrade the quality of combed
yarn combing process must be done.
Objectives:

• Extraction of short fiber to improve the staple diagram.

• Remove the excessive Naps that cannot be removed from carding.
• More parallelization of fiber.
• Finally, the formation of a combed sliver with the necessary cohesive force.

Machine Specification:

Manufacturer Rieter
Model E65 E66
Year 2007 2012
Origin Country Switzerland
Drafting system 3 over 3
Delivery Speed 170 m/min
No. of Lap 8
No of Machine 5 4

Fig: Rieter E66 Comber

 7. Simplex/Speed Frame
The finisher-drawn slivers are then fed into the Simplex machine. The sliver is extended and a
small amount of twist is inserted. The twist only helps to hold the fiber during the winding of
roving.

Objectives:

• Attenuation of drawn sliver to form roving of required count by drafting.

• To give a sufficient amount of twist to provide strength for further handling.
• To wind the twisted roving onto the bobbin.
• To produce a suitable roving for the Ring frame.
• To remove remaining trash from the draw sliver.

Machine Specification:
Manufacturer Toyoda
Model FL 100
Year 2007
Origin Country Japan
Drafting system 4 over 4
Flyer Speed 1052 RPM
Delivery Speed 24.7 m/min
No. of Flyer 120
Auto Stop Motion Yes
No. of Machine 7

Fig: Toyoda FL 100 Simplex/ Speed Frame

 8. Ring Frame
In the final step of yarn production, roving is fed into the machine, and yarn is produced. The
appropriate amount of draft is crucial, as it ensures the right fiber alignment. Twist is added to
the yarn to enhance its strength, but excessive twists can weaken it. The twist is inserted by the
traveler, and the ring bobbins are doffed automatically.

Objectives:
• To attenuate the roving to make yarn of required count by drafting.
• To impart strength to the fiber strand by twisting.
• To wind up the resulting yarn onto the bobbin.
• To build up the yarn onto the bobbin in the form of a suitable for storage,
transportation, and processing.

Machine Specification:
Manufacturer Shanghai Erfan
Model EJM 168
Year 2006
Origin Country China
No. of Spindle 516
No. of Machine 60
Drafting system 3 over 3
Ring Speed 15000

Fig: Shanghai Erfan EJM 168 Ring Speed

 9. Winding
Winding is a crucial operation in the spinning process and plays a significant role in fabric
manufacturing. While direct winding isn't as critical in fabric production, rewinding is
essential. Winding involves creating large yarn packages that can be easily unwound,
making the yarn more convenient and economical to use in subsequent processes. This step
ensures that the yarn is prepared efficiently for further use in various textile machines.

Objectives:

• Inspect the yarn

• Clearing of defects
• Lubricate the yarn
• Package the yarn

Machine Specification:
Manufacturer Savio
Model Orion M Polar M
Year 2007
Origin Country Italy
No. of Drums 60
Yarn Checker USTER Quantum 3
No. of Machine 10 1

Fig: Savio Polar M Winding Machine with USTER Quantum 3

 10. Yarn Conditioning:
Yarn conditioning enhances the performance of yarn by improving its strength, luster, handle,
and serviceability. This process involves increasing the relative humidity around the yarn or
adding moisture through steam or other suitable methods. Conditioning stabilizes the twist
permanently and is carried out in a chamber where the yarn is exposed to controlled
temperature and pressure. Heat setting during this process also contributes to increasing the
yarn's strength.

• Objectives of Carding:
• Yarn elongation and strength.
• Better performance at warping, weaving, and knitting.
• Reduced snarling.
• Reduced fly liberation.
• Optimum moisture in yam.

Machine Specification:
Manufacturer OBEM
Model 400/200/PG/A
Year 2007
Origin Country Italy
Machine No. 1

Fig: O B E M Yarn Stream Heat Settings M/C

Packing Section:
Packing is the process of building a bag, container, or box suitable for a product for transport
and storage. Different methods that can be used in packaging are wrapping, cushioning,
weatherproofing, and sealing. Good packing prevents the product or items from breakage,
leakage, pilferage, etc.
Packing Bag

The package label contains the following information:

• Factory name
• Unit
• Count
• No. of Cone
• Lot Number
• Gross Weight
• Net Weight
• Serial No.
• Date

Fig: Empty Packaging Bag

Fig: Packaging Bag

Quality Control & Assurance System
The quality of yarn produced must meet the specific quality norms set by the customer. Quality
assurance (QA) involves systematic activities within a quality system to ensure these
requirements are fulfilled. QA encompasses systematic measurement, comparison with
standards, process monitoring, and a feedback loop to prevent errors. Unlike quality control,
which focuses on inspecting process outputs, QA is proactive, aiming to prevent defects by
controlling processes throughout production.

The objective of Quality Control:

• Research
• Selection of raw material
• Process control
• Process development
• Product testing
• Specification test

Controlling Quality:
i) Cotton & Raw Material Testing (Bale Management):
Cotton samples are tested against mill standards to decide on purchase or rejection. Lots
meeting quality norms are bought, and 100% testing of bales from these lots is conducted.
Strict Bale Management is essential.

ii) In-Process Testing & Process Optimization:

In-process material at every process stage must be checked and wherever deviations are
observed, the process must be optimized by conducting trials.

iii) Finished Product Testing:

Before the final product is dispatched to the customer, the same should be checked against the
norms specified by the customer. Non-conforming products must be packed separately and
given separate lot/batch numbers.

iv) Calibration of Testing Equipment:

To arrive at reliable results, the testing instruments must be calibrated (Internally or by service
engineers the case may be) as per the prescribed method and schedule.
List Of Quality Control Equipment:

Sl. No. Machine Name Brand Model No. Origin Quantity

01 USTER HVI 1000 USTER Tech. HVI Spectrum Switzerland 1
02 USTER AFIS PRO USTER Tech. AFIS PRO Switzerland 1
03 USTER TESTER 5 USTER Tech. Tester 5 Switzerland 1
04 TPI Tester Modern Lab. - India 1
05 Auto Wrap Reel - YG086 D China 1
06 CSP Tester Modern Lab. - India 1
07 Sliver Wrap Modern Lab. - India 1
08 Electronic Balance - - China 1

Fig: Test Report from USTER TESTER 5

Maintenance
Machines, buildings, and facilities deteriorate with use and environmental exposure.
Maintenance involves technical and administrative actions to keep or restore these assets to
their functional state. Companies strive for competitive advantage in cost, quality, service, and
timely deliveries, making regular repair and reconditioning essential to extend the lifespan of
equipment and facilities economically and physically.

The objective of Maintenance:

• To keep the factory plants, equipment, and machine tools in optimum working
condition.
• To ensure specified accuracy to product and schedule of delivery to the customer.
• To keep the downtime of machines to the minimum thus to have control over the
production program.
• To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.
• To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.
• To minimize accidents through regular inspection and repair of safety devices-
• To improve the quality of products and to improve productivity.

Types of Maintenance

Maintenance

Pre-Vented Break-Down Shifting/Running Over-Hauling Planning

Maintenance Procedure:

• Check and tighten all motor terminals.

• Check and clean pressure sensors and tightening terminals.
• Check and clean the interfacing and data cables.
• Check and tighten the proximity switch terminals.
• Inspection, cleaning, and tightening of all the terminals in the panel.
• Check and tighten the limit switch, safety door guard, and emergency switch.
• Functional test of the fiber, sliver, roving, and yarn.
Maintenance For Different Sections:
i) Maintenance For Blow-room:
• Clean dust and collect fly from the m/c
• Clean motor air intake screens.
• Clean flat belts, V-belts, and sprockets.
• Clean the brush roller.
• Check the condition and tension of flat belts and chain drives.
• Change oil in gear motors.
• Lubricate bearings of supporting shafts and tension pulleys.
• Clean fiber accumulation from grid bars and beater pins.
• Clean the intake grill of the fan cover on the driving motor.
ii) Maintenance For Carding:
• Checking the condition of the wire of cylinder-in doffer and flat combs.
• Checking the bearings & motor shafts
• Checking Of trumpet, calendar roller & gears
• Under casings setting and checking the condition
• Wire replacement of cylinder, doffer & flats.
• Wire replacement of T-in
• Grinding Of cylinder, doffer, and flats
• Replacement Of flat stripping comb. Flat stripping fillet and scrapper blades.
• General cleaning of machinery by the operator.
• Checking of lube oil
• Checking of stop motion photo switches etc.
• Belt tension and condition
• Checking of doffer to cylinder driving gears
• Full setting / re-setting
• Checking of auto leveler.
iii) Maintenance of Draw Frame:
• Greasing the top bushes having bearings
• Top roller cot treatment
• Roller gauge checking / re-setting
• Pressure checking/resetting
• Cleaning the bottom fluted roller with wire brushes
• Cleaning and polishing of coiler tube and brush
• Tightening the loose nuts, bolts, Allan screws, etc.
• Checking the condition of trumpets, silver guides, air pipes, grease nipples, etc.
• Checking Of timing belt tension
• Checking Of machine gears
 • Checking the eccentricity of top and bottom roller (if needed)
• General cleaning of the machine, and cleaner pad by the operator
• Cleaning Of top roller cots with a suitable solvent
• Checking the drive/motion of clearer Cloth, clearer pad, and positive drive comb.
• Checking the function of the oil pump on the outer side, and gear end side, filling the
oil in the oil tank.
• Function of stop motion limit switches etc.
iv) Maintenance of Lap Former
• Cleaning and plashing of sliver tables, calendar rollers, etc.
• Cleaning of top roller bushes with spindle oil.
• Greasing the ball/needle bearings and shell roller bearings open gear.
• Checking and tightening of nuts, bolts, etc.
• Top roller cot buffing/grinding and pressure setting.
• Replacement Of top roller cots
• General cleaning of the creel part and drafting part by the operator.
• Function of limit switches, photoswitches, etc.
• Top roller cot treatment/greasing
• Gauge checking/resetting
• Overhauling of the pneumatic unit
v) Maintenance Of Comber:
• Change Of Lubricating Oil
• Top roller cot buffing/grinding
• Replacement of top roller cots
• Replacement of top comb brackets, top comb strips, and brushes.
• Cleaning Of nipple jaws
• Cleaning and straightening of cylinder needles and top combers
• Topping the Oil in the tank
• Check the functioning of limit switches, photoswitches, Stop motions, etc.
• Top roller cot treatment greasing
• Gauge checking / re-setting
• Greasing /lubricating the top detaching roller.
• Checking and tightening of nuts, bolts, etc.
vi) Maintenance of Ring Frame:
• Refilling of oil
• Tension of V-belts and spindle tapes
• Checking of gears & gear meshing
• Pneumafil pie setting and clips
• Function of limit switches, photoswitches, etc
• Checking of oil pump (working)
• General cleaning of spindle rail drafting zone wooden clearer, jockey pulley, tin pulley
knee brake, etc. by operators
• Inverter checking A/C (Input & Output), D.C voltage, ring data motor, sensor ring data
cable
vii) Maintenance of Winding Machine:
• Gauge checking/resetting
• Drum checking
• Checking/replacement of reversing roller gear, drum belt, and tension unit.
• Checking/replacement of splicing
• Checking/replacement of all cutters i.e. tension cutter, splicing cutter, etc.
• Spray lubricant for cutter
• Checking of cone sensor
• Spray grease for drive gear/spindle oil for camshaft
• Checking of drum bearing, splicing bearing, and blower shaft bearing
• General cleaning of magazine peg. cone holder, conveyor belt, and blow cleaner.
• Checking and removal of blow cleaner waste
• General cleaning of the blower motor, filter camshaft, motor filter control box
clipper filter.
• Checking of blow clearing
• Checking of motor ampere
• Measuring head-checking

Fig: Maintenance Sheet of Savio Orion M

Yarn Faults in Spinning

i. SLUBS

An abnormally thick place or lump in yarn showing less twist at that place.

Effect
• More end breaks in the next process.
• Damaged fabric appearance.
• Shade variation in dyed fabrics. Fig 2.27: Slub
Causes
• Accumulation of fly and fluff on the machine parts.
• Poor carding.
• Defective ring frame drafting and bad piecing
• Improperly clothed top roller clearers.
Remedies
• Machine surfaces are to be maintained clean.
• Proper functioning of pneumatic/roller clearers is to be ensured.
• Broken teeth gear wheel to be avoided and proper meshing to be ensured.
• Better fiber individualization at cards is to be achieved.
• Optimum top roller pressure & back zone
• Setting a ring frame to be maintained.

ii. NEPS
Yarn containing rolled fiber mass, which can be seen on blackboard at a close distance;
measurable on USTER imperfection Indicator.

Effect
• Damaged fabric appearance Fig 2.28: Neps
• Shade variation in the dyed fabrics
• An abnormally thick place or lump in yarn shows is called slub
Causes
• Accumulation of fly and fluff on the machine parts
• Poor carding.
• Defective ring frame drafting and bad piecing
• Improperly clothed top roller clearers.
Remedies
• Machine surfaces should be maintained clean.
• Proper functioning of pneumatic/roller clearers to be ensured.
• Broken teeth gear wheel to be avoided and proper meshing to be ensured.
• Better fiber individualization at cards to be achieved.

iii. SNARL
Yarn with kinks (twisted onto itself) due to insufficient tension after twisting.
Effect
• Entanglement with adjacent ends causes a break
• Damaged fabric appearance
• Shade variation in dyed fabrics Fig 2.29: Snarl
• Improper meshing of gear wheels
• Mixing of cotton varying widely in fiber lengths and use of immature cotton
Causes
• Higher than normal twist in the yarn
• The presence of too many long thin places in the yarn
Remedies
• Optimum twist to be used for the type of cotton processed
• Drafting parameters to minimize thin places in the yarn to be adopted
• The yarn to be conditioned
• Correct tension weights and slub catcher settings to be employed at winding

iv. THICK AND THIN PLACES

Measurable by USTER Imperfection Indicator and observable on appearance

Effect
• Eccentric top and bottom rollers Fig 2.30: Thin Place
• Insufficient pressure on top rollers
• Worn and old aprons and improper apron spacing
• Improper meshing of gear wheels
Causes
• Eccentric top and bottom rollers
• Insufficient top roller pressure
• Worn or outdated aprons with inappropriate spacing
• Incorrect meshing of gear wheels.
Remedies
• Eccentric top and bottom rollers to be avoided
• Top arm pressure checking schedules to be Maintained strictly
• Wide variation in the properties of cotton used in the mixing to be avoided
• Better fiber individualization at cards to be achieved.
• Correct spacers to be utilized

v. OIL STAINED YARN

Yarn stained with oil

Effect
• Damaged fabric appearance Fig 2.31: Oil-Stained Yarn
• Occurrence of black spot in fabric
Causes
• Careless oil in the moving parts, overhead pulleys, etc
• Piercings made with oily or dirty fingers
 • Careless material handling
Remedies
• Appropriate material handling procedures to be followed
• Oilers to be trained in proper method of lubrication
• Clean containers to be utilized for material transportation

vi. CRACKERS
Very small snarl-like places in the yarn that disappear when pulled with enough tension or Yarn
with a spring-like shape

Effect
• More breaks in winding Fig 2.32: Crackers
• More noticeable in polyester and cotton blended yarns
Causes
• Mixing of cotton of widely differing staple length
• Closer roller settings
• Eccentric top and bottom rollers
• Non-optimum temperature and relative humidity in the spinning shed
• Over-spinning of cotton
Remedies
• Optimum top roller pressure to be maintained
• Mixing of cotton varying widely in fiber length to be avoided
• Use of optimum roller settings
• Use of properly buffed rollers free from eccentric to be ensured

vii. KITTY YARN

Effect
• Damaged fabric appearance
• Production of specks during dyeing
• Needle breaks during knitting Fig 2.33: Kitty Yarn Faults
• Poor performance during winding
Causes
• Ineffective cleaning in the Blow room and cards
• Use of cotton with high trash and too many seed coat fragments
Remedies
• Cleaning efficiency of blow room and cards to be improved
• Optimum humidity in the departments to be ensured

viii. HAIRINESS

Protrusion of fiber ends from the main yarn structure

Effect Fig 2.34: Hairiness

 • More end breaks in winding
• Uneven fabric surface
• Beads formation in the fabric in the case of polyester/cotton blends
Causes
• Use of cotton differing widely in the properties in the same mixing
• Use of worn rings and lighter travelers
• Maintaining low relative humidity, closer roller settings, and very high spindle speeds
Remedies
• Use of travelers of correct size and shape and rings in good condition to be ensured
• Periodic replacement of travelers and suitable
• Roller settings to be maintained
• Optimum relative humidity to be maintained in the spinning room
• Wide variation in the properties of cotton used in the mixing to be avoided