LINGERIE PATTERN

Rafale Bra
A modern underwire bra with geometric
seamlines and layered cups.

AVAILABLE
IN SIZES
30AA-48H

Sewing level:
 CONTENTS

1 DESCRIPTION 3

2 FABRICS & NOTIONS 4

Choosing fabrics 4

Fabrics & notions 6

Other supplies 6

3 FIND YOUR SIZE 7

Wire size chart 8

4 PATTERN 9

Printing instructions 9

Print layout 9

Seam allowance 9

5 CUTTING 12

6 SEWING INSTRUCTIONS 13

7 EXTRA INFORMATION 32
© Hari Ito Lingerie 2019

For personal use only; any commercial (re)production of

or based on this pattern and instructions (text, illustrations,
images other design elements) is prohibited.
All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval

system and/or made public in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, by photocopying, recording or in any other way without
the prior written permission of the publisher.
 1 | DESCRIPTION

The Rafale bra is a partial band bra with

double layered cups. The bottom layer is
made out of two pieces and the upper
layer has a bust dart. Edges are finished
with foldover elastic, except for elastic on
the bottom of the back band. The back is a
leotard back that closes with a classic hook Con-
& eye closure. struction is not
difficult, though it is
Use lace in the upper layer (single darted important to read through
cup) and accentuate neckline. Or use the all instructions first before
2-piece cup and a front closure for an preparing your pattern and
easy-to-put-on bra. Or, more daring, use cutting your fabric, as you
the single darte cup for some revealing will have some design
cleavage. decisions to make.
This design offers a loads of possible variati-
ons for you to play with.

It is recommended with any lingerie project

that you first make a muslin, or test version,
of the pattern using a fabric with the same
Rafale is an advanced-level pattern. The stretch percentage as you plan for your
construction process does require precision final garment.
sewing, and you may need to make fitting
adjustments; therefore, it is an ideal project
for makers with experience in sewing under- Rafale is the French word for squall, a po-
wire bras, or intermediate makers who are werful gust of wind (rafale de vent), but also
prepared to learn new skills. the name of a jet fighter plane.

3
 2 | FABRICS & NOTIONS

Shoulder strap
cut 2
Choosing fabrics 1

Greatest stretch direction

1 Bridge Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template

In this part, we show you the different ways Non-stretch fabrics, stabilized FOE. The
to use the pattern pieces and explain the bridge of a bra can never stretch.
different fabrics that can be used for each Suitable fabrics: Duoplex, non-stretch tulle,
piece. Your end result, both in terms of fit non-stretch lace, marquisette mesh
and design, will vary greatly depending on
2 Upper cup
Greatest stretch direction

your choice of fabrics. Rafale Bra

Upper cup
cut 2

You can choose different fabrics than the Non-stretch fabrics like bra tulle, Simplex, 2
ones mentioned for each pattern piece Duoplex, non-stretch bra foam, (stabilized)
APEX

to achieve different levels of support or a scuba or any fabric with up to 10% stretch.
different look.
3 Lower Cup
This pattern has five pattern pieces: Non-stretch fabrics like bra tulle, Simplex,
Duoplex, non-stretch bra foam, (stabilized)
APEX

Greatest stretch direction

Rafale Bra

1 Bridge
Lower cup
cut 2

scuba or any fabric with up to 10% stretch.

connects the cups 3
2 Upper cup 4 Full cup
part of 2-piece cup,bottom layer Fabric that has a bit more stretch than the
bottom cups will have the best result (20-
3 Lower cup
30% stretch). Stretch lace, jersey, mesh, but Gre
at

part of 2-piece cup,bottom layer

es
t st
retc
Ra h di
rect
Fu fale ion
cu ll cup Bra

also the same bra tulle you used for the

t2

4 Full cup upper and lower cups.

Single darted cup, top layer
4
5 Back band 5 Back band
150 - 200 gsm powernet, or two layers of
back
(low) stretch fabric, layered in opposing
stretch direction (this works best if you use
thin fabrics).
Check out #rafalebra on Instagram to see
how others have designed their Mésange Greatest stretch direction

bras!
Rafale Bra
Back band
cut 2 powernet

4
 Underband elastic Wires
Choose 11mm plush-backed underband This pattern is designed to be used with
elastic, with a decorative edge if you would wires that are higher than average wires.
like. The elastic should be of good quality, If you already have wires, check them 5 mm/ ¼"
should not be overly stretchy and loose, and against the wire chart that’s included with 5 mm/ ¼"
should have good recovery. You can work this pattern. Print the chart (ensure the prin-
with wider elastic but then you have to add ting size is correct) and place the wire on
Measure the length of the wire on the pattern pieces
more seam allowance (= the width of the the image. Your wire should fit as exactly as
and see if the wire has enough room to move.
elastic without the decorative edge). possible.
cu ll cup Bra
Fu fale
t2

Ra

The measurements on the pattern must be

Gre
a

The shape can be slightly different, but the

tes
ts
tre

1 cm (½”) longer than the wire, otherwise there

tch

Bridge-Template
Rafale Bra
cut 2 powernet
Back band
Rafale Bra

length needs to be the same.

ire

Closure
cti

cut 2
Upper cup
Rafale Bra
on

is a chance of the wire piercing through

APEX
Greatest stretch direction
Greatest stretch direction

The patterns calls for a 38mm hook and Wire too long? Trim and seal the wire edges.
Greatest stretch direction

Greatest stretch direction

cut 2
Lower cup
Rafale Bra
the channeling.
eye closure (3 columns, 2 hooks, approx. 1 ½” Wire too short? Use a taller wire.

APEX
wide). Using a different wire than specified may
require pattern alterations that are not co-
vered in these instructions.

Shoulder straps
You can choose different widths of shoul-
der strap elastic. We recommend 12-15mm
for smaller sizes, or 15-18mm for larger sizes.
You’ll also need rings and sliders of the
Shoulder strap

same size. cut 2

There’s also an option for fabric straps: use

the same fabrics as the Upper Cup and
Lower Cup and finisch seams with FOE or
picot elastic.

5
 You may
want to pre-wash
your fabrics before cut-
ting. Most synthetic fabrics
have negligible shrinking, but
may contain traces of factory
substances, sizing, dyes, etc.
If using jersey fabrics, pre-
Fabrics & Notions washing is highly recom-
mended due to
• 30 x 50 cm (⅓ yd x ½ yd) bra tulle (Upper shrinking.
Cup and Lower Cup, bottom layer)
• 40 x 70 cm (½ yd x ¾ yd) powernet (Back
Band)
• 70 cm (¾ yd) underband elastic 15-18 mm
width
• 50 x 70 cm mesh/stretch lace (Full Cup, top
layer)
• 3 m (3 yd) foldover elastic (FOE) 15-20mm
Other supplies
width • Tailors chalk or erasable/washable marker
• 1 38 mm (1½”) hook and eye closure (3 • Fine pins
columns, 2 hooks) • Good quality polyester thread
• 1 m (1.1 yd) underwire channeling • Stretch/jersey sewing machine needle
• 1,5 m (1¾ yd) shoulder strap elastic (12mm- • Rotary cutter & cutting board
18mm) • Small pattern weights
• 1 set of ring and sliders corresponding to • Small pair of scissors
strap elastic width
• 2 underwires
• 40 cm (½ yd) non-stretch ribbon (narrower
than your FOE)
• Optional: A piece of non-stretch bra tulle
matching your skin color (for an invisible-
look bridge)
• Optional: Bra clasp/metal bra closure (if
making the front-closure bridge)

6
 3 | FIND YOUR SIZE
Every designer has their own size chart, so
BANDSIZE BCD PATTERN SIZE
use the chart and steps below as a guideline
for finding your recommended size for the
Measurement is bet- 5.7 cm/ 2 ¼” 28AA
Rafalev Bra. SIZE
ween:
Do not rely on your RTW bra size. 6.3 cm/ 2 ½” 30AA, 28A
57.5 - 62,5 cm
28 7 cm/ 2 ¾” 32AA, 30A, 28B
Wear your best fitting bra to take the BCD. 23 - 24 ½ “
Measure from the inframammary crease 7.6 cm/ 3” 34AA, 32A, 30B, 28C
up to the centre of the nipple (blue line) or 62,5 - 67,5cm
30
25 - 26 ½ “
where your breast is fullest, on both breasts 8.2 cm/ 3 ¼” 36AA, 34A, 32B, 30C, 28D
(BCD). Wear your best fitting bra to take the 67,5 – 72,5 cm
32 8.8 cm/ 3 ½” 38AA, 36A, 34B, 32C, 30D, 28E
BCD. If you have 2 different measurements, 27 - 28 ½ “
average them out. 9.5 cm/ 3 ¾” 38A, 36B, 34C, 32D, 30E, 28F
Measure directly under the breasts, holding 72,5 – 77,5 cm
34
the tape measure horizontally to the floor for 29 - 30 ½ “ 10.1 cm/ 4” 40A, 38B, 36C, 34D, 32E, 30F, 28G
your band size (green dotted line).
77,5 – 82,5 cm 10.8 cm/ 4 ¼” 42A, 40B, 38C, 36D, 34E, 32F, 30G, 28H
Find the bandsize by looking in the right 36
21 - 32 ½ “
column. 11.4 cm/ 4 ½” 44A, 42B, 40C, 38D, 36E, 34F, 32G, 30H
Find the right size by combining your 82,5 – 87,5 cm
38 12 cm/ 4 ¾” 46A, 44B, 42C, 40D, 38E, 36F, 34G, 32H
bandsize and the BCD in the left column 33 - 34 ½ “

87,5 – 92,5 cm 12.7 cm/ 5” 48A, 46B, 44C, 42D, 40E, 38F, 36G, 34H
40
35 - 36 ½ “
13.3 cm/ 5 ¼” 48B , 46C, 44D, 42E, 40F, 38G, 36H
92,5 – 97,5 cm
42 13.9 cm/ 5 ½” 48C, 46D, 44D, 42F, 40G, 38H
37 - 38 ½ “
14.6 cm/ 5 ¾” 48D, 46E, 44F, 42G, 40H
97,5 – 102,5 cm
44
39 - 40 ½ “ 15.3 cm/ 6” 48E, 46F, 44G, 42H

102,5 - 107,5 cm 15.8 cm/ 6 ¼” 48F, 46G, 44H

46
41 - 42 ½ “
16.5 cm/ 6 ½” 48G, 46H
107,5 - 112,5 cm
48
43 - 44 ½ “ 17.1 cm/ 6 ¾” 48H

7
 30AA 32AA 34AA 36AA 38AA

38 40 42 44 46

30A 32A 34A 36A 38A 40A 42A 44A 46A 48A

40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58

30B 32B 34B 36B 38B 40B 42B 44B 46B 48B

42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60
Wire size chart
Use this chart to find your underwire size. 30C 32C 34C 36C 38C 40C 42C 44C 46C 48C
The Rafale Bra is drafted for use with classic
underwires. 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62

30D 32D 34D 36D 38D 40D 42D 44D 46D 48D

46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64

30E 32E 34E 36E 38E 40E 42E 44E 46E 48E

48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66

30F 32F 34F 36F 38F 40F 42F 44F 46F 48F

50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68

30G 32G 34G 36G 38G 40G 42G 44G 46G 48G

52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70

32H 34H 36H 38H 40H 42H 44H 46H 48H

56 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72

8
 Print layout
4 | PATTERN
Greatest stretch direction

Rafale Bra
Full cup
cut 2

Greatest stretch direction

2019© Hari Ito Lingerie

2019© Hari Ito Lingerie

2019© Hari Ito Lingerie

Rafale Bra
Upper cup
cut 2

A-2

C-2
B-2
Printing instructions APEX
APEX

APEX
APEX
APEX
APEX
APEX APEX

Some pattern pieces fit on a single page,

The pattern comes as a layered PDF file, so
but where necessary, you may need to glue
APEX
cut 2

Greatest stretch direction

Rafale Bra
Shoulder strap
Lower cup
cut 2

you will need a PDF viewer to view and print

Lenghten or shorten
strap if needed
or tape pages together. For bigger pattern

Turn off layers you don't need before printing

2019© Hari Ito Lingerie

2019© Hari Ito Lingerie

2019© Hari Ito Lingerie

2019© Hari Ito Lingerie

and instruction (text, illustration, images and other design
For individual use only, any commercial production from
this pattern and instruction (text, illustration, images and
other design elements) is prohibited. No unauthorized
reproduction, in whole or in part, or distribution of this
Greatest stretch direction

3in
your pattern. We recommend Adobe Rea-
Greatest stretch direction

D-1
A-1

C-1
B-1
Rafale Bra
Back band

Bridge-Template
cut 2 powernet

Rafale Bra
pieces, make sure the icons in the page

5cm

2in
4cm

© Hari Ito Lingerie 2019

elements) is allowed.
3cm

1in
der as a reliable free program. You can print

2cm

7/8
6/8

pattern
5/8
4/8
1cm

3/8
2/8
corners match.

1/8
0cm
7/8 6/8 5/8 4/8 3/8 2/8 1/8
5cm 4cm 3cm 2cm 1cm 0cm 3in 2in 1in

the pattern on A4 or US letter-sized paper.

Make sure your printer settings are set to
Seam allowance Seam allowance
“100% scale” and not “Fit” (your settings may
be named differently), and check that it has Seam allowance is NOT included.
printed correctly using the guide on the first Add the following seam allowances: Greatest stretch direction

page.
Greatest stretch direction
Rafale Bra
Full cup
cut 2
Rafale Bra

• Red: 12 mm/ ½”
Back band
cut 2 powernet

DO NOT PRINT ALL SIZES AND PAGES! It’s not • Green: 7 mm/ ¼”
necessary! The pattern is a layered PDF and • When using picot elastic → Blue: Add the
meant for you to “turn off” all layers except width of your elastic (if using FOE, no SA is
Shoulder strap

needed)
cut 2

those you need to print. Otherwise, it will

be difficult to see the pattern lines and will
Be sure to check the width of the elastics you
Rafale Bra Greatest stretch direction
Lower cup
APEX

waste paper. Choose the Layer icon in the

cut 2

Greatest stretch direction

Rafale Bra
Upper cup
cut 2

PDF sidebar to view all layers, then choose will use in case they vary from the suggested Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template

your size and the TEXT layer. sizes; for example, if using 25 mm underband APEX

elastic, you will need to adjust the seam

You can find more info on how a laye- allowance to equal 25 mm where that elastic
red PDF works on https://hariitolingerie. will be applied.
com/2021/11/27/how-to-use-a-layered-pdf/ Fabric strap
If you have a bigger bust or don’t like a small
strap, you can add a wider, fabric bra strap 2,5/ 1”
Print layout
to the cups. The pattern piece for this strap 1 cm/ ⅜”
In this print overview of all pages, all layers is included in the pattern. Check that it is the Greatest stretch direction

are visible.The position of the pattern pieces appropriate length for you and lengthen or Rafale Bra
Upper cup

and number of pages varies depending on

cut 2

shorten if needed. In the back, you can add an

the size. Please check before printing. adjustible strap elastic part.
Print Page 1 first and make sure the control
square has the right dimensions. APEX

9
 Greatest stretch direction
Greatest stretch direction

Rafale Bra
Full cup Rafale Bra
cut 2 Full cup
cut 2

1
Removing excess fabric from the
neckline of the Full Cup (top layer)

Gre

Gre
ates

ates
t st

t st
retc
Raf ll cu

retc
Fu t 2

Raf lleccuti
h Fu
ale p
cu

dir t 2

hd
ale pon
Bra

cu

ire
Bra
Make this adjustment if the seam ‘waves’
along the neckline and over the bust in one
or more places. (We exaggerated in the
illustration.)
On your muslin, pin away the excess Gre
ates Gre

fabric where it occurs most. This may be

t st ates
retc t st
hd retc

Pattern alterations
irec hd
Raf ti irec
Fu ale Raf on tio
cu ll cu Bra Fu ale n
t2 p cu ll cu Bra
t2 p

in a different place than indicated on the

The Full Cup does not fit every breast, no illustration, but the principle remains the
matter how hard we tried to make the pat- same; pin towards the dart.
tern fit. You might have to adapt it to your 2
own unique shape.. 1 Transfer the excess to the paper pattern
pieces of the Full Cup.

2 Fold or cut away the excess and glue or

tape the parts back together, keeping the
pieces connected at the hinge.

3 Draw a new, straight line from the top of

Greate
st stre
tch dire
ction

Rafale
Full cupBra

the full cup to the end point of the Full Cup.

cut 2

ion
ect
dir
tch
stre
est
at
Gre
Bra
ale p
Raf ll cu
Fu t 2
cu

10
 Greatest
stretch direction

Rafale Bra
Full cup
cut 2

Greatest
stretc h direction

Rafale Bra
Full cup

1 cut 2

Greatest
stretch direction

Rafale Bra
Full cup
cut 2

Drag lines where the Full Cup and

the Upper Cup connect.
Possibly even a bit of excess fabric.
(We exaggerated in the illustration.)

On your muslin, pin away the excess fabric

where it occurs most. Greatest
stretc h direction

Pattern alterations
Rafale Bra
Full cup
cut 2

- continued - 1 Transfer the excess to the paper pattern

pieces of the Full Cup. 2

2 Fold or cut away the excess and glue or

tape the parts back together, keeping the
pieces connected at the hinge.
Greatest
stretch direction

Rafale Bra
Full cup
cut 2

3 Redrafyt the lines at the top, with smooth

lines connecting the pieces
Greatest
stretc h direction

Rafale Bra
Full cup
cut 2

Greatest
stretch direction

11 Rafale Bra
Full cup
cut 2
 5 | CUTTING

It is important that
you know how you
are going to finish your
Rafale.
Read the instructions ca- To cut (short band):
refully before you start • Upper Cup (1 notch): 2x, mirrored
cutting. • Lower Cup (2 notches): 2x, mirrored
• Full Cup (2 notches): 2x, mirrored Greatest stretch direction

• Back Band: 2x, mirrored

Rafale Bra
Full cup
cut 2

• Bridge: 1x in skin-colored tulle (go to, Step

5, to see the options for the Bridge)
Be sure to pay attention to the direction of
• (Optional) Shoulder Strap: 2x, mirrored
greatest stretch (DOGS) when preparing
to cut your fabric, as it may differ from the
straight grain of your fabric. We suggest using
pattern weights and a rotary cutter (and Mark using chalk or thread, depending on
cutting mat!) to most easily handle slippery, the version you plan to make: Rafale Bra
Lower cup
cut 2 APEX

Greatest stretch direction

delicate fabrics and small pieces. • Connection point (apex) of the Upper
Greatest stretch direction

Rafale Bra

Cup and Lower Cup

Upper cup
cut 2

Take extra care when aligning your fabric if • Dart in Full Cup.
cutting two layers, or we recommend to cut • Underarm connection points on the Full APEX

with your fabric in single layer to reduce the Cup.

chances of pieces sliding. For pieces that
require it, be sure to cut a left and right piece.

Mark notches immediately after cutting in

your preferred manner (see next page).

12
 6 | SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
Before diving into sewing your bra, take a These instructions cover several options.
moment to read through the instructions Take note of the version being referred to in
completely so you will know what to expect each step.
in the next step. If you are using new elastics
and materials, you may also want to test Think about how you want your Rafale to
your stitches to be sure they stretch without look like:
snapping, and do not cause wavy elastic. • Are you making both cups?
• Do you want to use lace in the cups or other
Test your FOE: Does it keep its shape or does stretch fabric?
it look wavy after stitching a zigzag? Does it • Do you want to use lace on the cradle and
stretch without breaking the stitches? Test the back band?
how much you need to stretch the FOE to Right side of Wrong side
get a nice result and keep that in mind while the fabric/ of the fabric/
constructing your bra. Use the templates on the last page to material material
design your Rafale Bra.
The fold in FOE can be pre-ironed, which
can help with applying the FOE in one step.
If you do this, use low heat, a press cloth,
and test your elastic first to ensure it can
Stitches
withstand the heat of the iron. Stitchlength Stitchwidth
used

Exact measurements for elastics are not

3-step
provided due to the amount of sizes and 1 - 1,5 4-5
zigzag
the variation in stretch among elastics. We
recommended keeping your elastics in
one continuous length, applying necessary Zigzag 2.3 2.3
tension while sewing, and trimming it when
done. Straight
2 0
stitch

13
 SHORT OVERVIEW

STEP 1 Sew the Full Cup 15

Variation: picot elastic 15

STEP 2 Sew Upper Cup and Lower Cup 16

STEP 3 Assemble both cups 17

STEP 4 Make the bridge 18

Variation 1: full bridge (lace covered) 18
Variation 2: fake ribbon bridge 19
Variation 3: ribbon bridge 20
Variation 4: front closure 21

STEP 5 Sew underband elastic to Back Band 23

STEP 6 Adding channeling 24

STEP 7 Finish the neckline 26

STEP 8 Finish the underarm 27

STEP 9 Adding shoulder straps 28

STEP 10 Attach the hook and eye closure 30

STEP 11 Insert wires and close the channeling 31

14
 Using foldover (FOE) elastic
1
1 Leave a tail to make an easier start.
Stitch the FOE to the fabric using a zigzag or
3-step zigzag stitch. Go to step 5

Using picot elastic

2 From the right side of the piece, stitch
the elastic with a zigzag. The plush side
should be facing up and the picot inward 2 3 4
from the edge.

3 Turn the elastic towards the inside of the

panties. Trim excess fabric if needed.

4 From the good side, secure the elastic

STEP using a zigzag.
1

5 Sew the dart with a straight stitch. Start

Sew Full Cup at the bottom of the cup and stitch to the
tip of the dart. Be sure to follow the curve of
the dart as you stitch, as this will result in a
nicer fit and finish. 5 6
If your machine can do a tiny backstitch,
use it. Otherwise, tie the ends together and
hide the ends in the dart.

6 Press the seam, pushing it to the side of

the cup. Topstitch the seam with the same
straight stitch.
Trim excess fabric, making sure you’re not
cutting into the fabric underneath. Use
appliqué scissors if you have them.

15
 1 Sew Upper Cup to Lower Cup using a
straight stitch. Place the Lower Cup on the
Upper Cup to prevent the seams from stret-
ching. Align at the APEX notch.
1
2 Press the seam, pushing it up.
Topstitch the seam with the same straight
stitch.
Trim excess fabric, making sure you’re not
cutting into the fabric underneath. Use ap-
pliqué scissors if you have them.

STEP
2

TIP
Sew Upper Cup and
If you have sensi-
Lower Cup tive skin, you could stitch 2
the Upper Cup and Lower Cup
pieces with the wrong sides to-
gether, so that the seam allowance
lies on right side of the fabric (away
from your skin). The Rafale Bra
has a double layer cup, so then
the seam allowances would
face each other and not
touch your skin.

16
 Place both cups with right sides facing up;
the Full Cup is placed on top of the right
side of the just-sewn two-piece cup. Align
STEP
3 the FOE of the Full Cup next to the seam of
the two-piece cup. Baste (or pin) both cups
from seam to side.
Assemble both cups

17
 You have four options when 1 2
making the bridge:
• Full bridge (possibly covered with lace)
• Fake ribbon bridge
Variation 1: full bridge (lace covered)
• Ribbon bridge
• Bridge with front closure 1 Add 12 mm/ ½” seam allowance to the Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template
Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template

side seams of the Bridge.

Rafale Bra Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template Bridge-Template

Which bridge you choose depends on

your size and taste. The full bridge is much 2 Place the Bridge pattern (with seam al-
stronger than the ribbon bridge. The ribbon lowance) on the fabric fold of a non-stretch
bridge is most suitable when the space fabric and cut. 3 4
between the breasts is less than 1.5 cm. The Go to 4 if you want a lace bridge
false ribbon bridge is suitable for everyone.
3 Pin or baste the bridge to the cups and
check for symmetry.
Sew toghether using a straight stitch.
Repeat with the other cup..

Rafale Bra
Rafale Bra Bridge-Template

STEP
Bridge-Template

Bra
-Template
Optional: lace bridge Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template
Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template

4
Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template

4 Place a piece of lace on top of the fol-

ded fabric.
Make the bridge Baste the edge with (temporary) glue or
pins.
Variation 1: full bridge (lace covered)
Continue with 3 5

5 The top of the bridge will be finished

when finishing the neckline of the cups.

18
 1 2

Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template
Rafale Bra

Variation 2: fake ribbon bridge Bridge-Template

1 Add 12 mm/ ½” seam allowance (red

lines) to the side seams of the Bridge.
Add 7 mm/ ¼” (green lines) (or the width
of your picot elastic) to the bottom of the
bridge. when using Picot elastic.
3 4
2 Place the Bridge pattern (with seam
STEP
allowance) ona single layer of a non-stretch
4
lining fabric and cut out.

Make the bridge 3 Finish the bottom edge with FOE or picot
elastic.
Variation 2: fake ribbon bridge
Rafale Bra
Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template 4 Pin or baste the bridge to the cups and
Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template

check for symmetry.

Bridge-Template

Sew toghether using a straight stitch.

Repeat with the other cup.

5 The top of the bridge will be finished 5

when finishing the neckline of the cups.

19
 Variation 3: ribbon bridge

1 On the Bridge pattern, measure the 2

length of the top edge, add 12 mm/ ½” seam
allowance on both sides, and cut a piece of
non-stretch ribbon to the same size. Do the
same for the bottom edge.

2 Wrap the bottom and longest ribbon

with fold-over elastic, and secure with a
zigzag or 3-step zigzag stitch.
Align both pieces to
(You can also reverse these steps, and
the sewing lines, not
first stitch the ribbon inside the FOE before 3
STEP the seam allowance
cutting it to size; don’t forget the seam
4 edges.
allowances!)

Make the bridge 3 Stitch the bridge ribbons to the cups with
a straight stitch.
Variation 3: ribbon bridge
Use the Bridge pattern piece to determine
the correct position and length of the
ribbons.
Make sure the ribbon is sewn at the same
height on both cups, otherwise the cups will
be skewed relative to each other. The bottom 4
ribbon lies with the FOE facing down, just in
front of the elastic of the cup. The top ribbon
lies with the FOE facing towards the top.

4 The top of the bridge will be finished

when finishing the neckline of the cups.

20
 1 2
Variation 4: front closure

1 Draft a new pattern piece. Place your

clasp on the Bridge pattern piece. Align the
center of the clasp to the center front of the
Rafale Bra Rafale Bra Rafale Bra Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template Bridge-Template Bridge-Template Bridge-Template

pattern.

2 Draw two lines from the side of the

bridge to the closure. Mark the inside of the
Rafale Bra Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template Bridge-Template

closure.
3 4
STEP 3 Mirror the pattern, adding 4mm (⅛”+)
4 extra space between the two parts.
Add 1.2 cm (½”) seam allowance around the
whole piece.
Make the bridge
Variation 4: front closure 4 Cut out the new pattern piece: x4 in a
Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template
Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template

non-stretch fabric.

5 Place two parts on top of each other,

right sides together.
5 6
Sew both parts together with a straight stitch,
leaving the side seams open. Rembember: 1.2
cm (½”) seam allowance!

6 Trim the seams to 2mm (⅛”) of the

stitching.
Rafale Bra Rafale Bra
Bridge-TemplateBridge-Template
Rafale Bra Rafale Bra
Bridge-TemplateBridge-Template

21
 Rafale Bra Rafale Bra
Bridge-Template Bridge-Template

Rafale Bra Rafale Bra

Bridge-Template Bridge-Template

7 8

7 Make tiny cuts at the angled stitching

lines up to 2 mm (⅛”) from the corner.
Turn the piece right-sides out, and press.
Repeat for the other piece.
STEP
4 8 Thread the pieces through your clasp.
Baste the open ends together.

Make the bridge 9 Sew the closure to the cup and topstitch
with a straight stitch. 9
Variation 4: front closure
Repeat for the other side.
- continued -
10 Sew FOE or picot elastic to the top of
the upper cup. Repeat on the other cup.

10

22
 1

1 Align the elastic to the bottom of the

band: plush side of the elastic facing up,
decorative edge turned inwards. Stretch the
elastic slightly.
Sew the elastic using a zigzag close to the
decorative edge.
STEP Flip the elastic inward, to the back. 2
5
2 With the right side facing up, topstitch
the elastic using a zigzag or 3-step zigzag
Sew underband elastic to
stitch, as close to the flat edge of the elastic
Back Band as possible.

3 With rights sides facing each other, pin/

baste the back band to the cups. Sew back
band to cup using a straight stitch.
Repeat on the other side. 2

23
 TIP
Channeling can be
shaped using an iron. Pin the
channeling in a demi-circle to
your ironing board. Use a press
cloth to prevent the channeling
from melting. Press and steam.
Let it cool before you sew it
in place.

2,5 cm/ 1”

1 Place the cradle right side up, the wrong 1

side of the cup visible.

Place the channeling plush side up. Sew

the channeling with a straight stitch (stitch
length 2.5), on top of the stitch line, repositio-
ning every 2.5 cm/ 1”.

Start sewing 2.5 cm/ 1” from the underarm,

stop at the end of the bridge.
STEP
6 Do not stretch the cups while sewing

Repeat on the other side, paying attention to

Adding channeling symmetry: use the notches to check.

Trim excess fabric underneath the channe-

ling. 2
2,5 cm/1” 2,5 cm/1”
2 Turn the channeling inside the cups, then
edge-stitch close to the channeling edge
with the right side of the cups facing up..

Topstitch the second pass of the underwire

channeling parallel to the first line of
stitches.

24
 1
If you made a front closure, skip 1 and go
to 2

1 Close the channeling at the bridge using

a small zigzag stitch (stitch width 2, stitch
length 0.8). This prevents the wire from co-
STEP ming out.
6
Trim the channeling.

Adding channeling
2 Sew FOE/ picot elastic to the top of the
- continued -
cup.
2
Close the channeling at the bridge using
a small zigzag stitch (stitch width 2, stitch
length 0.8). This prevents the wire from co-
ming out.

Trim the channeling.

25
 If you’ve installed a front closure, skip this
step and proceed to step 8

Sew FOE/ picot elastic to the neckline using

a zigzag or the stitched zigzag.

STEP Cover the ribbon between both cups.

7
If you’ve choosen the wider strap, sew it to
Finish the neckline the taps on the Upper Cup pieces befo-
re sewing the neckline. You start at the
narrow end of the left strap (rigt sides is
facing up), and sew al the way to the other
end of the right strap, covering the neck-
line.

26
 1 2

1 Place full cup on the 2 part cup, notches

aligned, fold the channeling out of the way.

2 Add a piece of non stretch ribbon to

prevent too much stretching.
STEP 3 4
8 3 Sew the FOE to the underarm seam
using a zigzag or the stitched zigzag.
Stretch the FOE 2,5 cm/ 1” as indicated.
Finish underarm
4 Continue the stitching the channeling
over the FOE at the underarm but don’t the
channeling yet.
2,5 cm/1”

27
 1

A B C D
1 Using shoulder strap elastic, make a pair
of shoulder straps. The length of the elastic
for each strap is approx. 38-46cm/15-18”.
Thread the strap through the middle of the
slider (A), fold back (B).
Secure with a couple of straight stitches (C)
or use a narrow zigzag (stitch width 3, length
STEP 1.5). 2 3
9 Thread the strap through the ring and
through the slider (D).

Attach shoulder straps 2 Take the cups: trim the FOE at the top of
the cup

3 Place the longest part of the shoulder

strap under the tip of the full cup, aligning it
with the underarm.
Secure with a bartack (stitch width 2, stitch
length 0.8).

28
 4

4 Check if your hook & eye closure fits the

center back.
Trim the back edge if needed, tapering back
into the original curve.
If it’s too narrow, shift your elastic a bit in the
next step.
STEP
9 5 Check the bra for the length of the strap 5
elastic on the back band; there should be
Attach shoulder straps 2 cm/ ¾” extra to thread through the ring.
Place the piece on the curved back part of
- continued - the band and stitch with a zigzag.
Take into account the comment in the pre-
vious step if your hook & eye is too narrow.

6 Thread to end trought the ring and

sucure using a bartack (stitch width 2, stitch
length 0.8).

29
 4

4 Slide the eye part over the left back wing

(the eyes will face the same direction as the
right side of the bra). Use a narrow zigzag
(stitch width 3, length 1.5) to sew it to the
STEP back.
10
5 Slide the hook part over the right back
wing (the hooks will face the opposite
Attach the hook & eye closure
direction as the right side of the bra). Use a
5
narrow zigzag (stitch width 3, length 1.5) to
sew it to the back.

If you can shift your needle position, so that

your needle does not hit the hooks, do so.

30
 1

STEP 1 Insert the colored end of the underwire

11 inside the channeling at the underarm.

2 Close the channeling using a bartack

Insert wires and close the (stitch width 2, stitch length 0.8).
channeling

31
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Email us: hello@hariitolingerie.com

7 | EXTRA
Use these templates to design your Rafale Bra!

32
 RAFALE BRA
Size made:

Pattern adjustments:

Fabrics & notions:

(Add a sample, price and where you sourced them )

33