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THE SALTHOUSE ROAD SQUARE
by CatsWhiskers Crochet
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Salthouse Road is the address of the Jackfield Tile Museum in
Shropshire in the English Midlands - the beautiful, intricate,
colourful ceramic tiles produced there from Victorian times to the
present day are still a huge source of inspiration for my designs.
Each square takes roughly 100m of DK yarn or 150m of Aran or
worsted yarn, plus extra for wastage, using the appropriate hook.
SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate or confident beginner, with understanding of
hidden stitch, invisible join (ideal but not essential) and third loop. Some
parts need concentration! Excellent tutorials available online - try:
Look at What I made (Dedri Uys)
Every Trick on the Hook (Polly Plum)
Note on colour placement: to show this pattern at its best, it's
a good idea to work rounds 5 and 12 in a colour that contrasts
strongly with the surrounding rounds.
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ABBREVIATIONS (US terms):
R - round dc - double crochet dc2tog - double
crochet two together
st - stitch(es) tr - treble crochet
(see below)
ch - chain fpsc/hdc/tr - front
spcl - special cluster
post single/ half
slst - slip stitch (see below)
double/treble crochet
sc - single crochet blo/flo - back loop
yo - yarn over
only/front loop only
hdc - half double
crochet
SIZES: About 9" x 9" in DK with 4 or 4.5mm hook; 12" x 12" in Aran/worsted
with 5.5 or 6mm hook, according to how tightly or loosely you crochet. Also
adjustable over last three rounds (see pattern).
SPECIAL STITCHES:
double crochet two together (dc2tog), referred to as petal from R12:
yo, insert hook in indicated st and pull loop through,
yo, pull through 2 loops on hook,
yo, insert hook in same st as before and pull loop through,
yo, pull through 2 loops on hook,
yo, pull through remaining 3 loops.
Special cluster (spcl) - follow carefully for Round 3:
yo, insert hook in indicated st in R2 and pull loop through,
yo, pull through 2 loops on hook (first leg),
yo, insert hook in front loop only of st immediately below in R1 and pull
loop through,
yo, pull through 2 loops on hook (second leg),
yo, insert hook in front loop only of next st in R1 and pull loop through,
yo, pull through 2 loops on hook (third leg),
skip next st in R2,
yo, insert hook in next st in R2 and pull loop through,
yo, pull through 2 loops on hook (fourth leg),
yo, pull through remaining 5 loops (there will only be 4 loops on first
occasion if you began with ch-2) (cluster complete).
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Please note before you begin:
• The pattern assumes a change of colour on each round - fasten off invisibly,
or with a slip stitch into the beginning of the round as appropriate.
• You can begin rounds (after the first) with a standing stitch or chain substitute
- i.e. ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc etc. Substitute chains will always
count as a stitch.
• Important instructions are in bold type; helpful hints and explanations are in
red italics.
•
• Repeat everything between square brackets [ ] indicated.number of times.
R1 16 hdc into magic ring (or ch 4 joined with a slst),
substituting ch 2 for the first hdc. (16 hdc)
R2 hdc blo in any st,
2 hdc blo in next st,
[hdc blo in next st,
2 hdc blo in next st] x 7 (24 hdc blo)
R3 (may be tricky - please follow steps on page 3
carefully and check against photo.)
spcl beginning in any st in R2, substituting part-finished
standing dc or ch 2 for first leg,
ch 3,
[spcl beginning in next st in R2,
ch 3] x 7. (8 spcl, 8 x ch-3)
Do not skip any sts except the ones in R2 behind the
centre of each cluster.
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R4 sc in any chain space,
[ch 6,
working down the chain and just picking up
the top loop each time:
skip first ch,
hdc in next ch,
dc in next 2 ch,
hdc in next ch,
sc in last ch,
sc in same R3 chain space, placing a stitch
marker in this stitch, first occasion only,
fpsc around next cluster,
sc in next chain space] x 8, omitting last sc.
(8 x ch-6, 16 hdc, 24 sc, 8 fpsc, 16 dc)
(Your work will twist for the next few rounds but will flatten out later.)
R5 sc in marked st,
[sc in next 2 st (the top of the fpsc and the next sc),
sc in next 5 st (up the first side, picking up the base loop of
the chain. The first of these is tucked into the corner and
is quite well hidden),
3 sc in single chain space at the top,
sc in next 5 st (down the second side, picking up both
loops. Large petal made),
sc in next sc] x 8, omitting last sc. (128 sc)
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R6 work in R5 and R3 as indicated (folding large petals forward as you work):
[dc in each of 3 sc in R5 worked between two large petals,
working behind large petal: ch-2,
dc in centre of chain space (between 2 scs) in R3,
ch 2] x 8. (32 dc, 16 x ch-2)
Reverse view:
R7 Begin in first chain space after a 3 dc group (folding large petals forward):
[dc in chain space,
ch 3, placing a stitch marker in the last chain, first occasion only,
skip next st (the dc),
dc in next chain space,
skip next st,
3 dc in next st,
skip next st] x 8 (40 dc, 8 x ch-3)
Reverse view:
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R8 Work in R7, R6 and R5 as indicated:
sc in chain space, in marked location,
[fptr around centre dc of 3dc group in R6 (just
below and slightly ahead),
returning to R7, skip next 2 st,
(hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next st (centre of 3 dc group),
fptr around same st as last fptr in R6,
returning to R7, skip next 2 st,
2 sc in next chain space,
slst fairly loosely in back bump (the 'third loop')
of next 3 centre scs at top of large petal (R5),
returning to R7, 2 sc in same chain space] x 8,
omitting last sc. (32 sc, 16 fptr, 16 hdc, 24 slst, 8
x ch-2)
Stitch counts given per side from now on.
R9 (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in centre slst at top of large petal (corner made),
skip next st,
dc in next 2 st,
ch-3,
skip next 6 st (the fptr, hdc, ch-2, hdc, fptr),
sc in next 3 st,
skip next st (the centre slst catching in the next
large petal),
sc in next 3 st,
ch 3,
skip next 6 st as before,
dc in next 2 st,
skip next st.
Repeat from beginning all around. (8 dc, 6 sc,
2 x ch-3, 1 x ch-2 per side)
(The top of each 'kite' shape from R8 should sit in front of the ch-3 space in R9.)
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R10 (dc2tog, ch 2, dc2tog, ch 2, dc2tog) in corner chain space,
skip next (hidden) st,
dc in next 2 st,
hdc in next st,
working in front of R9, hdc in chain space in R8 below (top of kite),
returning to R9, 2 hdc in next chain space,
hdc in next 6 st,
2 hdc in next chain space,
working in front of R9, hdc in chain space in R8 below,
returning to R9, hdc in next st,
dc in next 2 st,
skip next (last) st.
Repeat from beginning all around.(3 dc2tog, 4 dc, 14 hdc, 2 x ch-2 per side)
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R11 TRICKY ROUND - don't miss the trebles each side of the corners
(dc2tog, ch 2, dc2tog) in first chain space of corner group,
ch 2 (forms corner chain space),
skip next st,
(dc2tog, ch 2, dc2tog) in next chain space,
working in front of R10, tr in unworked st in R9 below,
returning to R10, skip next st (the dc2tog),
hdc in next 6 st,
sc in next st,
ch 1,
skip next 2 st,
(dc2tog, ch 2, dc2tog, ch 2, dc2tog) in next st,
ch 1,
skip next 2 st,
sc in next st,
hdc in next 6 st,
working in front of R10, tr in unworked st in R9 below,
return to R10.
Repeat from beginning all around. (7 dc2tog, 2 tr, 12 hdc, 2 sc, 2 x ch-1, 6 x ch-2
per side)
.
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R12 ANOTHER TRICKY ROUND - SORRY! - Be careful not to miss out any of
the trs or fptrs, and remember to work all scs in front loop only.
2 sc in corner chain space,
fphdc around next petal (the dc2tog),
sc in next chain space,
fphdc around next petal,
working in front of R11, fptr around petal in R10 immediately below,
returning to R11, skip next 2 st (the tr and first hdc),
sc flo in next 6 st,,
working in front of R11, tr in 2nd unworked st in R10 below (a little way ahead),
returning to R11, sc in next chain space,
[fphdc around next petal,
sc in next chain space] x 3,
working in front of R11, tr in 1st unworked st in R10 below (a little way back),
returning to R11, skip next st,
sc flo in next 6 st,
skip next st (the tr),
working in front of R11, fptr around petal in R10 immediately below,
returning to R11, fphdc around next petal,
sc in next chain space,
fphdc around next petal.
Repeat from beginning all around. (7 fphdc, 2 tr, 2 fptr, 8 sc, 12 sc flo per side)
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R13 This round is worked entirely into R11, sometimes into unworked back
loops and sometimes into the top of trebles/petals which already have a front
post stitch worked around them. All instructions refer to stitches in round 11;
ignore all stitches in R12, folding them forward out of the way as you go:
4 dc in top of last petal before corner,
ch 2,
skip corner chain space,
4 dc in top of first petal immediately after corner,
skip next chain space and next petal,
3 dc in next st (the top of the tr),
skip next st,
[2 dc blo in next st,
skip next st] x 2,
3 dc blo in next st,
skip (next st, next chain space, next petal,
next chain space),
2 sc in top of next (centre) petal,
skip (next chain space, next petal, next
chain space and next st),
3 dc blo in next st,
skip next st,
[2 dc blo in next st,
skip next st] x 2,
3 dc in next st (the top of the tr),
skip next st (the top of the petal),
skip next chain space.
Repeat from beginning all around. (14 dc,
14 dc blo, 2 sc, 1 x ch-2 per side)
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(Any or all of the following three rounds can be worked in dc or hdc to achieve the
correct size. If you choose hdc for R14 the corners should be worked in dc.)
R14 (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in corner chain space,
skip first (hidden) stitch,
dc in next 14 st,
dc in next st catching in back bump (third
loop) of st in R12 immediately below (the
centre fphdc),
dc in next 14 st,
Repeat from beginning all around. (4 tr, 29
dc, 1 x ch-2 per side)
R15 (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner chain
space,
skip first 2 st (including hidden st),
dc in next 13 st,
skip next st,
3 dc in next st (the centre st),
skip next st,
dc in next 14 st,
skip last st.
Repeat from beginning all around. (36 dc,
1 x ch-2 per side)
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R16 (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner chain space,
skip next 2 st,
dc in next 33 st,
skip last st.
Repeat from beginning all around. (39 dc, 1 x ch-2 per side)
41 st per side including turning chain.
🎉 FINISHED!🎉
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Design copyright notice: Please do not share this pattern in any form: online, by
email or in print. You are welcome to make any changes and to use finished items
in any way you like, but if displayed online or offered for sale please include an
acknowledgement and/or link to the original pattern page on Ravelry. Please do not
claim it as your own design!
Thank you 😁
catwhiskerscrochet@gmail.com © Christine Bateman 2024
