INDIAN WEAVING

DONE BY: ASHMITHA, TARINI

THE STORY OF WEAVING; HOW IT ALL STARTED
Weaving is an ancient technique that has been used for textiles all over the
world for centuries. Weavers use a variety of materials, including thread,
yarn, and fabric, to create intricate patterns in cloth. While the process may
be simple in theory, weaving can be quite complex and require a great deal
of skill.

In India, weaving is a long-standing tradition that has been passed down

through the generations. The country is known for its intricate weaves and
stunning textile production. The first evidence of weaving in India dates back
to the Indus Valley Civilization, which was active from 3300-1300 BCE.
Back then, the main purpose of
weaving was to create clothing
and fabric for use in everyday life.
However, over time, weaving has
come to be seen as a form of art,
and Indian weavers have become
highly skilled at creating beautiful
and intricate patterns. The end
result is a stunning piece of cloth
that can be used for clothing,
bedding, or home decor. Weather
it is Bengal or Hyderabad,
handloom weavers of India have
been facing the same kind of
problems. From being symbols of
cultural expansion to having their
thumbs cut off by Englishmen,
Indian weavers have endured and
persisted through major political
upheavals in the subcontinent.
SIGNIFICANCE OF WEAVING
Weaving refers to the process of interlacing yarn
to produce textiles and fabrics. The vertical thread
is called the warp, while the horizontal thread is
referred to as the weft. Warp and weft are usually
laced in fixed patterns using a loom. The different
ways of lacing results in varied types of weaves. A
simple criss-crossing of the warp and the weft at
right angles is called plain-weave. In twill-weave,
the warp and weft are laced together to form a
typical diagonal pattern, while four or more warp
yarns are floated over the weft in the satin-weave
technique. In India artisans from different places
have their unique styles of weaving plain and
dyed yarns, leading to a range of distinguished
textiles and fabrics.
The textile industry is one of the oldest and
most prominent industries in India. It has a
plethora of advantages, such as the ready
availability of raw materials, a vast
manufacturing base, a wide range of
innovative products, and a burgeoning
demand from both domestic and
international consumers. India has already
established itself as a market leader in
several industry segments, such as silk,
cotton, and jute production, further
solidifying its position as a prominent player
in the global textile arena. The industry has a
rich history and has been a significant
contributor to India’s economy for centuries.
Over the years, the industry has grown and
evolved, and today, it is one of the
fastest-growing sectors in the country.
GROWTH RATE & THE GLOBAL LEADER
With a robust market value of over US$ 100 India has established itself as a global leader in
billion, the Indian textile and apparel industry producing several textile products, such as
is a powerhouse, employing over 45 million being the second-largest producer of silk,
people and making up 14% of the nation’s cotton, and Multimode Fibre (MMF). The country
industrial output. According to the also holds the distinction of being the world
Confederation of Indian Indian Industry leader in jute production, accounting for nearly
70% of global production. Moreover, India
(CII), the Indian textile industry is expected
boasts the second largest vertically integrated
to hit US$ 250 billion production by FY25,
production base after China, giving it a
rising at 12% CAGR between FY22-FY25. competitive edge w
Exports are projected to reach US$ 185 billion
by FY25, doubling India’s share of global with a strong manufacturing base across the
textile trade to 10%. Growth would be driven value chain and a vast raw material base. The
by demographics, rising demand for lifestyle value chain encompasses weaving, spinning,
products, and the spread of garmenting, and processing, further
e-retailing/organized retailing in smaller strengthening its leadership position in the
towns/rural areas. The industry growth will global textile industry.
create jobs and generate value, attracting
US$ 180 billion in investments.
THE GROWTH DRIVERS
The Indian textile industry is highly competitive,
with a vast network of small and large
manufacturers, exporters, and traders. The sector
has witnessed substantial growth in recent years,
owing to favorable government policies and
increasing demand for Indian textiles globally. The
industry has also received a boost from the ‘Make
in India,’ “Aatmanirbhar Bharat,” and Performance
Linked Incentives (PLI) initiatives, which aim to
promote domestic manufacturing and boost
exports. The industry’s growth can be attributed to
several factors, including the availability of
affordable labour, a large consumer base,
favorable government policies, and very innovative
entrepreneurs. Additionally, India’s skilled
workforce and technological advancements have
enabled the country to produce high-quality
textiles that meet global standards.
TYPES OF WEAVING

Weaving is an ancient method of producing textiles and fabrics. It is important that

people become more aware of their local weaves in order to preserve traditional
work and to continue to urge others to purchase these designs and live a more
sustainable lifestyle
 Kanchipuram
Kanchipuram sarees are considered one of the most beautiful sarees across the
country. These beautiful sarees are made with a beautiful blend of colours, and thick
fabric with a touch of gold. Kanchipuram weaves have a history of more than 400
years and it is said that the two major weaving communities Devangas and the
Saligars came from Andhra Pradesh and settled in Kanchipuram, utilizing their
weaving skills by weaving silk sarees. Kanchipuram fabrics are considered one of the
strong fabrics because the saree is made of three silk threads twisted together.
Chanderi
Chanderi is a small town in Madhya Pradesh that practices the handloom
skills of weaving cotton and silk with zardozi work. Chanderi sarees are soft
and elegant in cotton. It is believed that Chanderi town was the centre for
weaving and it rose to a prominent position and became an important
trade route for the traders. There are three major chanderi fabrics which
are pure silk, Chanderi pure cotton, and silk cotton.
Banarasi
Banarasi sarees are among the finest sarees in India and are known for their silver
and gold zari, fine silk, and opulent embroidery. The special features of the saree are
floral, bel, and other designs. Most of the sarees are made from woven silk and
decorated with amazing designs. From the 19th century itself, Banarasi sarees were
popular. The history of this weave began in 1603 when silk weavers from Gujarat
migrated to Varanasi and started silk weaving there and developed excellence with
their amazing craft.
Muslin
Muslin is a cotton fabric of plain weave.] It is
made in a wide range of weights from delicate
sheers to coarse sheeting. It gets its name
from the city of Mosul, Iraq, where it was first
manufactured.
Muslin of uncommonly delicate handspun yarn
was handwoven in the Bengal region of South
Asia and imported into Europe for much of the
17th and early 18th centuries.
Muslin is a loosely woven cotton fabric. It’s
made using the plain weave technique, which
means that a single weft thread alternates
over and under a single warp thread. Muslin is
known as the material used in fashion
prototypes to test patterns before cutting and
stitching the final product.
Tangaliya
Tangaliya shawl is woven in the plain weave technique with extra weft threads for
creating designs on the shawl. The speciality of the Tangaliya weave is the small
dots (daana) used for making patterns on the fabric. Particular warp threads are
selected around which small lengths of threads are twisted according to the
required design. This weave is originated from gujrat.
Mysore Silk
Mysore is the land of sandalwood and also one of the producers of fabric. Mysore silk is also
known as mulberry silk because the silk cultivators use mulberry leaves for silkworms to feed
them for abundant silk. The shining sarees of Mysore are a gem in the crown of the Mysore
Maharajas. Mysore silk sarees are known for their extraordinary shine, zari work, and lightweight
fabric. Silk is mainly produced under KSIC. The growth of the Mysore silk industry began during
the reign of Tipu Sultan and it became so popular that it competed with other imported
materials.
INCIDENTS AND FACTS ABOUT INDIAN WEAVING
Muslin was produced in Orissa and Bengal, with the finest quality coming from Dhaka. It finds a
mention in Megasthenes’ writings and is supposed to be the fabric worn by the terracotta
figurines of the 2nd century BCE found at Chandraketugarh. The Charyapadas of the 10th
century, which are written on palm leaves, carry a complete description of the process of
weaving muslin in the oldest form of Bengali.
August 7 was chosen as the National Handloom Day. why?

The National Handloom Day was celebrated a few days back on 7th August. I am
sure when each one of us think of handlooms, we conjure up some image, event or
memory with it. For instances, whenever I think of handlooms, I immediately
remember the roadside stall named as the Handloom Emporium stacked with
colorful and unique items. The open stall unlike any high end fashion or utility store
always captured my imagination and till date if I pass through the road, I either
stop by or quickly glance through to check out the products. Similarly, one can also
associate handloom markets during exhibitions where stalls are lined with bags,
mats, décor items, curtains, mattresses, cushion covers and so on.
The Peacock dress of Lady Curzon is a gown made of
gold and silver thread embroidered by the Workshop of
Kishan Chand (India), and designed by Jean-Philippe
Worth for Mary Curzon, Baroness Curzon of Kedleston
to celebrate the 1902 Coronation of King Edward VII
and Queen Alexandra at the second Delhi Durbar in
1903. It is today kept in the Kedleston Hall, Derbyshire,
as part of its collection.
The dress features a design representing the feathers
of a peacock, a symbol of great significance in Indian
culture and the Hindu religion, on a fabric traditionally
worn by Mughal court rulers.
The gown was assembled from panels of chiffon that
had been embroidered and embellished by skilled
craftsmen in the Workshop of Kishan Chand (India),
using the zardozi (gold wire weaving) method (the
technique takes its name from the densely worked
metal thread; zar (gold) and dozi (work)).
Muslin reached its peak under
the Mughals when it was
given fanciful names such as
abi-rawan (flowing water),
baft-hawa (woven air), and
shabnam (evening dew), and
became the most lucrative of
all textiles exported from
India, with the finest muslin
fetching a high price. With
their beautiful aesthetics, the
Mughals wore it as a Jama,
often embroidered with the
finest chikankari, with which it
is associated to this day.
When the European East India
Companies became active in
India, muslin was exported in
huge quantities to Europe from
Bengal and Chandernagore. Like
chintz, European women
enthusiastically adopted muslin,
who had so far worn wool and
silk, which were expensive and not
washable. Tastemakers like Queen
Marie Antoinette and Queen
Josephine of France helped set
the trend for light, airy muslin
dresses, which peaked in
England’s Regency period.
 PATOLA SAREES ORIGINATED FROM GUJRAT
Indian weaving is a testament to the country's rich cultural
heritage and artistic prowess. The exquisite craft of Patola sarees
from Gujarat stands out as a marvel of Indian weaving. What
makes these sarees truly mesmerizing is that they are woven using
a rare double-ikat technique, where both the warp and weft
threads are dyed meticulously before weaving. This complex
process demands unparalleled precision, as the weavers must
align the dyed threads perfectly to create intricate geometric
patterns and vibrant motifs. The result is a symphony of colors and
designs that seem to dance on the fabric, captivating the viewer
with its sheer complexity and beauty.
Each Patola saree can take several months to complete due to the
labor-intensive nature of the double-ikat technique, making them
treasured heirlooms passed down through generations. The
meticulous artistry and the interplay of colors in Patola weaving
reflect the profound connection between tradition, innovation, and
craftsmanship in Indian textile heritage, leaving observers
awestruck by the extraordinary skill and dedication that go into
creating these stunning pieces of wearable art.