PFAFF 230. INSTRUCTION BOOKDear Reader: After following faithfully the instructions in this booklet and after mastering the basic principles of sewing and developing a certain skill, you will derive immense pleasure from your Universal Sewing Machine Pfaff 230. If, yet, the one or other chapter should lend itself a bit difficult, you need not despair as your Pfaff dealer will gladly help with ready advice and conscientious service, In the Pfaff store you will aiso have occasion to see fine stitching and embroidery samples that wiil leave plenty of room for imagination and will lend themselves to many beautiful combinations. You will marvel at the neat and lovely eyelet embroideries and fancy stitching as well as decorative circle seams produced on the Pfaff Zigzag Machines with the help of the eyelet and circle embroidery attachment you are invited to order at an extra charge. If it's cording work, however, your Pfaff 230 will also do if you purchase the special cording set for your standard model. Your Pfaff dealer is also at your service for all of your sewing requirements such as needles, oil, accessories, genuine Pfaff spare parts in addition to threads and yarns in all sizes and colors. We always welcome your suggestions for improve- ment and if you have a special wish, trust yourself to our Pfaff dealer who will report to us in detail. Wishing you happy sewing, G. M. PFAFF AG, Sewing Machine Factory, KaiserslauternINSTRUCTIONS PFAFF 230 Universal Zigzag Flatbed Sewing Machine four HouseholdsPPP Q@© 6&6 @tL Jeae, dn-aye} pray uolsue} peaiy} 10ddq yajaAa I9AOD YUOIZ ajejd 1aA09 yuo Hurids sa[[o1u0s pray Jepeary} afpeeu ut-3]Ing Japloy efpeeu ofqeabueypiaquy joo} rassaid 10J maios Hurusysey od4j-Hurms ‘dure, burmeg qeao] HBuysn{pe uontsod tins 1aaa] Buysn{pe wins Hezbiz waysds Hurpesy ay} Hurbehuaestp 10j qouy apr[s Burieaod uortsod yp ins due, Hurmas 10; yp IMs uoyng asiaAevl pue premioy Hurmas 1oj Iaaay Hunysnf{pe yyHusay wis yyHue] yyys Hurjiw4y 10; 13A07 Ge 1% ‘0% “61 SI 4. i: SI. v1 iY wie sure aap a[peer 10J aAcoi1h yA jaayMALT ostp Buyseuuoostp jooyMALT Ul-}]INq ‘IapuUIM UIqqog JaAVq-a[HuIS eyeos Huysn{pe ys Bezhiz queuyjsn{pe uontsod ypytys 10; afe9g satoyuoyjnqg Hurmas 10} JaAa] uoTeyuU, wjIS safoyuoyjng BHurmes uayM you s19A0 ayy Hurysn[pe 10j ystq pPaeiy} IepulM ey} 10J uorsua}-a1g uid jaa1 adA}-Hurms dwey Hurmes ay} yno Hurburms 10j rasa] yejeAo opmnS peairyy seddq O€% Held oy} JO MoIA JUOIZ “Cr WW ‘OlS )ht yooy iassaid 10} Maids Hhurueyse.y JOU} pray, Japeery} o[peou ut-}INg I9AV] JOO} Iassoeig Jepeary} a[paeu Ul-}[INq IO} 1aA0T dn-aye} peal utd jaer adAy-Buimg pail} JapuIM ay} 10} UoTsue}-o1g I9A0D WIP d[qeAoUOYy utd jaar odAy-burmg JapuIM uIqqoq IoAd[-a]burs ul-}INg ostp Hurauuodsip [eoyMATZ SALIP a[peai} IOj [eayMALT We oUTIPeW yySt] Mas Io¥ yaxpoS O€Z HeId OY} JO MaTA TeOy “ST ‘¥viI “el € a 5 |i nk. 2.I. General instructions for the Universal Zigzag Flatbed Sewing Machine PFAFF 230 1. To set-up the machine 1, Unpack the machine carefully. 2. Thoroughly remove all packing dust from the machine. 3. Set up the machine and do not operate it before you have studied these instructions carefully. 2. To thread the needle 1, Guide the thread from reel pin 1 to needle holder eyelet 7 according to illustr. 2. 2. Take end of thread between thumb and forefinger of both hands and put it from the rear into thread clamp 8 of the needle threader (illustr. 1). 3. Raise needle bar to its highest position. Tlustr. 1 64, Lift lever 9 of the threading device with your left hand so that the threader comes down whereby the small hook 10 enters the needle eye (illustr. 2). 5. Put the thread from thread clamp 8 without tension over the small hook 10 which projects from the needle eye (illustr. 2 and 3). 6. When releasing lever 9, the thread is seized by the returning hook 10 and drawn through the needle eye (illustr. 4). The built-in needle threader is adjusted for needle No. 70. In order to prevent bending of the thin needle when drawing the double thread through it, use thin and flexible thread only. It is recommended to support the needle with one finger of your right hand from behind so that bending of the needle can be avoided. 7. If you are a bit experienced, there is no need for hanging the thread end into clamp 8 but sinply put it over hook 10 in the shape of a loop. Illustr. 5To wind the bobbin 1. Place the cotton reel on the right reel pin 1. 2. Guide the thread from reel pin 1 clockwise around winder tension 2. 3. Put thread end into the bobbin slot, place bobbin on spindle 3, keep thread end with your fingers. 4. Press lever 4 with your finger until the bobbin winder is engaged. Operate machine and pull off thread end after a few revolutions. When bobbin is full, release is automatic. It is suggested that the sewing mechanism of the machine is disengaged Illustr. 5a 10when winding the bobbin. Keep the flywheel with your left hand and loosen disconnecting disc A by turning it to the left (illustr. 5a). 4. To remove the bobbin case 1. Raise needle bar. Open bedplate slide to the left. . Open latch of bobbin case from underneath the table or through the opening of the mould, depend- ing on the furniture type you have, by grasping latch A between thumb and forefinger (illustr. 6) — and pull. When keeping latch open, bobbin cannot fall out. Illustr. 6 5. To insert the bobbin case 1. Insert the filled bobbin in the bobbin case, pull the thread through slot | under the tension spring towards the opening 2. When you pull on the 11Ed Ilustr. 7 thread, the bobbin must turn in opposite direction (illustr. 7). . Put bobbin case and bobbin on the guide pin so that the latch points to the right. Now press with your thumb and make sure that it catches with an audible click. Neglect to do this may cause the needle to hit the bobbin case or break. To pull out the under thread . Keep the end of the upper thread. . Turn the flywheel by hand until needle has gone down and up once. The under thread then appears in the form of a loop out of the needle hole. Draw both upper and lower thread ends under the presser foot, and to the rear. (illustr. 8) . Never start sewing without having the thread take-up lever in its highest position. This willprevent the thread from getting jammed in the bobbin case race of the hook Illustr. 8 . The needle The Pfaff 230 has a needle bar with interchangeable needle holder head enabling you to insert, without loss of time, needle holder heads for one, two or three needles for ordinary or double cording seams and fancy stitchings, respectively. . For all single-needle work and cording, one needle system only is required, the normal needle with flat shank, system 130 R. For very fine cording work and three-needle fancy stitching, however, requiring smaller distances between the needles than the shank of system 130 R permits, a needle holder head for system 130B with thinner, round shank can be supplied, upon request and at an extra charge, for needle gauges of '/is or 5/sa’' 13Needles and threads ? ; Strength f Kind of fabric ; Threads eiceea Very fine linen, sewing cotton shirting, batiste, mull, silk sheerest silk fabrics, schappe silk foulard silk embroidering and darning thread Fine linen, batiste, sewing cotton - crepe de chine, silk 00 crepe marocain, schappe silk 80-109 repe satin, Nylon, embroideri Muslin, light taffeta, sewing cotion 70-80 fine bed-linen, table silk 00-0 linen, underwear, silk 0 (10/3) fabrics, linen, calicoes, schappe silk 70-80 bed-spreads with silk embroidering cover, macco, kid- and darning leather etc. thread 50-70 apparel, heavy silk sewing cotton and linen fabrics, silk var ous material for schappe silk clothes and dresses, emb oidering finest leather and darning thread Heavy woollen | sewing cotton 30-40 fobrics, sturdy linen, | 100 | silk BC cloth etc. (10) schappe silk 60 10. | embroidering (1) | and darning thread 30-40 It is easy to change from single-needle work to cording or fancy stitching because the needle holder can be exchanged with the needles inserted. > . Push needle holder head without needle on the needle bar until it stops and tighten fastening screw. 145. Put needle into needle holder head, flat shank towards needle bar, and tighten needle fastening screw. In order to protect your fingers, the needle fastening screw has an additional slot so that it can be tightened with a screw driver. Important! In every sewing machine the needle is so inserted that the short needle groove is facing the hook. The upper and lower tensions should be set in accordance with the strength of the thread used and the material to be worked. For sturdy material and strongly dressed fabrics it is advisable to use a needle about one size stronger than indicated on the table. For stitching thin and soft materials, thin needles and thin, soft threads are recommended. The proper relation of the needle- and thread size to the grade of the material to be stitched, can easily be seen on the preceeding table. 8. To regulate the thread tensions 1. Turning tension nut M_ clockwise (> , the tension of the upper thread will become tighter, by turning counter-clockwise A , it will be become looser (illustr. 2). 2. Thread the under thread in accordance with illustr. 7 so that, when pulling the thread, the bobbin must turn in opposite direction. 153. The tension of the under thread gets tighter or looser by turning the small screw Z of the tension spring -to the right or to the left (illustr. 12). Mlustr. 9 Correct tensions Illustr. 10 Upper tension too tight or under tension too loose Tllustr. 11 Upper tension too loose or under tension too tight Important! In order to avoid ruffling of the material, use loose thread tensions when stitching thin and soft fabrics. For heavy and hard materials, tighter tensions are required.| tf Ilustr. 12 9. To regulate the length of stitch The adjustment of the stitch length and the change from sewing forward and reverse can be effected by means of a handy lever (illustr. 13). In the vertical position of stop lever A, there is no feeding at all. First, adjust lever B for limiting stitch length at your will. The embossed numbers may serve as a guide. EGE Push lever A to its right stop — the machine will stitch forward for the given stitch length. When turning lever A to its left stop, the machine will stitch reverse with the same stitch length as before If a shorter stitch is wanted, push lever A into zero position and adjust stop lever B according to the scale. 10. To adjust the machine for straight stitching in the middle of the needle hole 1. Zigzag adjusting lever G to the right zero position, stitch position lever H in central position (groove II) (illustr. 14). 17 EeeIllustr. 13 2. Adjust stitch length limiting lever B for the required stitch length (illustr. 13). 3. Stitch adjusting lever A to its right stop. Important! The central position of lever H = in groove Il is the normal position for straight seams and most of the zigzag stitchings which can be done with the aid of the feet included with the machine. In this position, the pointer of scale plate S is between both marking lines.EERE EEE ES i1. To adjust the straight stitch position 1. For left stitch position, draw stitch position lever H and push it up until it stops (groove I) (illustr. 14). This done, the needle will stitch into the left corner of the needle hole and, when sewing zigzag, stitch from left to right. For right stitch position, draw stitch position lever H and push it down until it stops (groove III). In this case, the needle will stitch at the right side of the needle hole and, when sewing zigzag, from right to left. 3. For normal stitch position in the middle of the needle hole, put stitch position lever H in groove Il. The needle will stitch equally to both sides. To enable you to produce a curved seam by rhythmic- ally changing the stitch position when sewing plain or narrow overstitches, the Pfaff 230 is equipped with a small slide V underneath the Zigzag lever G (illustr. 14). By pushing slide V to the left, grooves I, 1! and UI are covered so that the stitch position lever H can be easily moved to the left and right. When actuating slide V, push lever H outwards. The rhythmical adjustment of stitch position lever Si offers a large variety of ornamental seams by com- bining the change of the stitch lenght and overstitch. A further field of application for the above mentioned curved seam is the repair of tricot ware and knitgoods due to its elasticity and durability. NB! The stitch position for which the machine is adjusted may easily be seen from the position of the small pointer of scale plate S (illustr. 14). This pointer indicates the left, right or central stitch position. The marks on the stitch position scale indicate the position of the needle in the needle hole when stitching plain seams. 19Mlustr. 143 12, The adjustment of the Zigzag stitch To adjust the width of the zigzag stitch, turn lever G to the left. The width of the overstitch may be seen from the scale S ({illustr. 14). 13. To limit the width of the overstitch The Pfaff 230 has a built-in zigzag stitch limitation activated by a lever which can be used at all stitch positions. The limitation of the zigzag stitch to two overstitch widths at a ratio of 1:2 is not only suitable for stitching buttonholes but offers a large number of varieties in fancy stitching. Turn milled disc R to its left stop when sewing zigzag seams in order to achieve the largest overstitch of (illustr. 14). When turning the milled disc R to the right »»——> , zigzag lever G is limited at the left so that smaller overstitches only can be sewn. The limitation lever Z arranged under the milled disc R is in its neutral position at the right. If zigzag lever G should be limited at its right, push lever Z to its left stop. The width of the limited smail overstitch is half the width of the overstitch limited by the adjustment of milled disc R such as required for stitching buttonholes. If, for instance, lever G points to 3 of the scale, it will point to 1,5 when turning to the right. When exerting slight pressure, lever G can be put in O position, as re.uired for tacking buttonsholes. When releasing lever G, it automatically returns to position, as required for tacking buttonsholes. for the next buttonhole. 14, To remove the front cover The front cover of the Pfaff 230 is completely closed and so designed that no fastening screws are visible 21from outside because it is not necessary to remove it for oiling the head parts. Should you, however, intend to adjust the presser bar, proceed as follows: Mustr. 15 1, Remove top cover. 2 Unscrew fastening screw k for front cover whereby the cover slides downwards (illustr. 15 and 19). 3. Remove cover to the left. 4. When inserting the front cover, take care that guide L of the needle threader enters nut N on 22a EERE aH the inner side of the front cover. Furthermore, it is necessary to insert pin S into link K of the operating lever fastened to the front cover. Push front cover from below so that guide pin F at the lower edge of the cover enters eye H of the machine head (illustr. 15). Important! Tighten screw k only slightly in order to prevent any damage of the front cover thread (light metal!). 15. To regulate pressure of the presser foot In order to secure exact feeding of the material and to achieve uniform. stitches without damaging the bottom of the material to be stitched, it is necessary to regulate the tension of the presser foot according to the kind and grade of material. After removing the top cover of the Pfaff 230, the regulating screw D (illustr. 19) of the presser bar is easily accessible. By turning screw D clockwise e the pressure is increased. For thinner material, a slighter pressure is required which can be obtained by turning screw D counter-clockwise ( . The presser spring of the Pfaff 230 is so designed that the slightest pressure is in effect when the top of the screw bushing is in straight line with the edge of the screw thread. For stitching extremely thin cloth, a presser spring made from thinner material can be supplied on request. NB! When stitching thinnest materials it is recom- mended to place a_ piece of tissue paper underneath the material whereby the material to be stitched will be protected and ruffling avoided. 2316. To lower the feed For darning and embroidering heavy material, the feed can be lowered so that the cover plate need not be used Turn lever C ou the bed-plate left to lower the feed, turn it right to raise the feed (illustr. 13). For darning and embroidering thin materials, it is recommended to use the cover plate in order to secure that the material is held taut in the embroidery hoop, thereby avoiding skipping of stitches. When using the eyelet and circle embroidery attach- ment, it is obligatory to lower the feed. Bn TlustrThis feed lowering device enables you to tack the end of seams. By rhythmically lowering and raising the feed, fancy seams like strings of pearls can be stitched. 17, The rotary hook of the Pfaff 230 The rotary hook of the Pfaff 230 has been improved insofar as its bow is no longer fastened with 3 small screws but so designed that one screw only at the front end of the bow is necessary (illustr. 16). You can easily remove the hook bow and bobbin case and clean the hook thoroughly. The flexibility of this new type hook bow prevents breakage of the bobbin case when thread gets jammed in and the machine will never be entirely blocked, so that it is possible to get access to the fastening screw of the hook bow. By this improvement, removal of the complete hook or loosening and adjusting the hook shaft as well as its readjustment by a mechanic has become superfluous. Illustr, w18. To remove the flywheel Tightness of the machine may be caused by pieces of thread which got stuck between machine arm and flywheel. The removal of the flywheel can be easily done. Remove the small screw a with the aid of a small screw driver. This done, it is easy to turn the large milled disc b to the left and remove it, simultaneously keeping the flywheel with your left hand. Then, the flywheel can be drawn off. When inserting the flywheel, it is important that the raised tongues 1 of the disconnecting ring point Ilustr. 18 26outwards. Insert disc b carefully so that the discon- necting ring cannot slip and get jammed (illustr. 18). NB! If the flywheel cannot be sufficiently tightened by turning disc b, after having inserted screw a, turn the disconnecting ring 1809 to the left or right and insert it again. 19. To oil and clean the machine By carefully oiling and cleaning, the life of your machine is considerably increased. The smooth shape and the removable top cover greatly facilitate the maintenance of your machine. 1. Take the top cover at both ends and remove it 2. Put a few drops of oil into the oiling holes pointed out by arrows. Wipe off the superfluous oil with a clean rag (illustr. 19). 3. Since the oiling points of the machine head are also accessible, it is not necessary to remove the front cover. (Remove front cover only for readjustment of the presser bar, vide par. 14). 27Ilustr. 20 4, The oiling points for the bedplate parts are easily accesible after tipping over the machine arm. Illustr. 20 shows the oiling points for the short hook shaft and the gears, whereas illustr. 21 illus- trates the points for lubricating the hook driving shaft. 5. Special attention must be paid to the lubrication of the hook. Before using the machine, apply a drop of oil to the race of the bobbin case (illustr. 22). From time to time, the hook should be cleaned with kirosene and subsequently oiled 29Ilustr. 21 with sewing machine oil. Do not oil the chain drive because this would lead to tightness in the machine . Dust and fluff gathering underneath the needle plate between feed dog and rotary hook must be regularly removed. Unscrew needle plate with the aid of a long screw driver. Do not forget to remove presser foot and needle, in order to protect your fingers Hold the screw driver in vertical position and insert it correctly into the slot of the screws. Damaged slots injure fine materials. Unscrew by turning the screw driver counter-clockwise and tighten screws by turning the driver to the right. Put all removed parts and tools on a rag, not on the table. Remove crusts of dust from the teeth of the feed dog and the corners of the needle plate supporting parts. Remove the dust with the aid of a small or flat brush. 30Illustr. 22 20. Some hints for the detection and elimination oi minor causes of trouble Awkward stitches Their cause: Adjustments necessary: 1, bobbin and top threads __ both tensions to be set as do not join properly per instructions, par. 8 2. the improper quality. insure with selection of of thread used, either high quality thread too thick, knotty or too stiff 313. lower thread in bobbin improperly wound, re- sulting in unequal draw-in of stitches . if the groove where the thread passes through in the bobbin is too dry rewind bobbin by using bobbin winder guide 1 or 2 kirosene will this trouble drops of oil or eliminate When requiring a straight stitch and a zigzag effect appears, then the zigzag lever is not properly or completely over to the right side which in some cases is slightly beyond the zero point. Excessive thread breaking Its cause: . Improper threading . improper needle 3. knotty thread . annular hook groove too dry or fluff accu- mulated in same Stitch skipping Its cause: 1. Improper threading 2. improper needle 3. needle inserted improperly 32 Adjustments necessary: follow instructions carefully Pfaff needle, syst. 130 R, also for cording use high quality thread or silk remove excess thread shreds and insert drop of oil in groove of bobbin case Adjustments necessary: follow instructions for threading, par. 2 use Pfaff needle indicated on needle plate insert needle until stop is reachedEEE ERE EEE EE EE 4. needle is bent 5. needle is too thick or thin for the thread used Needle breakage Its cause: 1, bent needle which will bump against the hook point 2. thread too thick for needle 3. hook tightness caus- ed by thread particles caught within the hook through improp- er use of machine 4. needle is being forced to the sides by the improper moving of the material with the hands, such as some- times is done with ex- ceptionally heavy ma- terial which may not feed properly without the use of force 5. improper insertion of bobbin case insert fresh needle choose needle size on table “Needles and threads” Adjustment necessary: insert new needle see table of “Needles and threads,” par. 7 insert a few drops of oil on hook and with the aid of the disc wheel move it up and back 3 or 4 jerks without excessive force; should you fail to remove thread particles it is advisable that Pfaff mechanic be called to feed heavy material properly more pressure is required within the presser bar and in order to get this repaired in- crease pressure, insert properly as indicat- ed in par. 5, a3.6. upper thread tension too tight which causes the thread to hold the needle which, naturally, would bend or break Noisy performance Its cause: 1. excess thread or fluff hindering smooth op- eration for the hook and blocks passage of needle 2. if the needle plate is not put on in exact position where screws must fit correctly, or the teeth of the feed dog not placed in pos- ition properly, then it will stop the needle from entering the hole correctly 3. machine has not been oiled sufficiently loosen tension or insert thicker needle or light thread Adjustments necessary: brush away all such threads and fluff and oil annular groove remove needle plate once more and put it into exact position, if feed dog has also been removed then check the position so that it will fit exactly into the place designed for the needle plate follow instructions for oiling, par. 19.BHREEESESEE HE & Il. Instructions for using accessories and attachments. 21. The hinged presser foot No. 44088, attached to the 44088 Ilustr. 23 45037 45037 Illustr. 24 41350 Tllustr. 25 presser bar of your machine, is by far one of the most used sewing feet for straight and normal zigzag stitching. It is specially adapted for sewing over thick seams and sturdy materials which cannot other- wise be done by plain sewing feet as the extra thickness would prevent the work from feeding through. 22. The sewing foot with round needle hole No 45037 is used to advantage on thin material requiring straight stitching. On account of its reduced width, the operator has a closer view of the edge of the material. 23. The quilter No 41350 is applied in keeping uniform stitching of seams that require distance of spacing according to design. Adjust ruler, using small screw dri- ver to loosen screw on foot for distance required. 3524. Edge guide No 41297 comes very handy for quilting. The guide is secured next to the needle plate by | =f 41297 Tllustr. 26 means of the attachment screw. It is laterally adjus- table for spacing the distance of the seam from the edge. The standard sewing foot can also be used in the place of foot No 41350. 25. Hemmer feet No 41246 and No 41248. Franc 41246 41246 Mlustr. 27 41248 Illustr. 28 » iy 41248 The two feet are made to expedite hemming on any variety of materials and are most handy for aprons, underclothing, bed or table- linen and the like. Both hemmers are provided with needle holes for plain and zigzag stitching. Zigzag hemming is mainly used on elastic material such as knitgoods, etc. and per- mits production of elastic edges without danger of thread breaking. The effect of the work can be enhanced if coloured thread is used in the needle. The straight stitch is used for solid hems on sturdier materials, requiring no elasticity. 36 nT mT TT Ha Hw HE a OE aTThe feet are attached in the same position as the other feet supplied with the machine and for the desired width of hem from the edge, fold accordingly. As helpful hint when inserting the material into the curl we suggest to cut the material on bias. To hem, drop presser bar, activate machine and with the right hand, guide sufficient material through the hemmer; the left hand should be placed in a proper position and is to regulate the amount of material to be fed. Important: Always set machine for the central stitch position when applying the hemmers. Ilustr. 29 26. The feller No 41242. The feller which serves to connect two pieces of material, is very useful in the making of underwear and for the lengthening of garments Fasten feller to the needle a bar and apply the two li layers of the material un- derneath with an allow- x ance of approximately iO 1/6 of an inch, depending on the type of material used. SL. u 41242 41242 Illustr. 30 37It is important that the proper sides of the material are facing each other. This done, guide both edges through the end of feller, same as when hemming, whereby the left and right hand have to be in coordination with each other in the feeding process of the joining of the seams. Having finished felling, both layers fold open like a book, and after stitching the seam, repeat the felling process whereby the raised seam is neatly folded away by a parallel line of stitching. Mlustr. 31 27. Foot No 41249 for rolled hems Now that you have mastered the straight stitch hem- mers, you may proceed with rolled and shelled hems, using hemmers Nos. 41249 and 42141 in addition to special cording guide 26362 in combination with edge stitcher No 41350. Rolled and shelled hems are very simple to achieve, the only difference is that the zigzag stitch is now applied and machine set for central stitch position. Use foot No 41249 for rolled hems on thin and delicate fabrics and shell foot No 42141 on heavier materials, including knitgoods, etc. 38BEER EEE EE & & 41249 41249 Ilustr. 32 To produce rolled hems, | replace the ordinary sew- } ing foot by No 41249, In- Illustr. 33 (At an extra charge) Illustr. 34 sert the folded material into the curl and guide and guide with both hands as prescribed in the pre- ceding paragraphs. Thread tension should be light and a small zigzag stitch used to ensure a neat effect. Different materials require different tensions as in the case of tricot (silk) where tightening of upper thread ten- sion and a wider zigzag stitch will produce a wavy ef- fect known as “‘roll- ed hem" which can be enhanced further by the use of color- ed threads. 28. Foot No 42141 for shell work (illustr. 34) This is used exactly as No 41249. The thread tension should be _ tighter and the length of stitch longer.A help- ful hint in shell work and shelled edges is the larger the stitch length, the longer the scal- loped effect. 394350 the foot as possible but by no means is it to Iilustr. 35 touch the foot. Bring the material, with the edge folded under, under the presser foot, pass the cord through the small hole on the front of the guide. Use of color- ed cording thread will enhance the appearance of this work. Then make zigzag stitches over the edge and cut off the waste material. If the material is of heavier variety, the cording may be ap- plied for reinforcement of the edge without the neces- i sity of folding the material. By carrying two cording threads of different color, an additional decorative effect can be had. Illustr. 36 30. Attaching, inserting and rollingon lace. For attaching lace use foot No 44088 and, if cording is desired, foot No 41621. If lace is desired on heavier materials such as is commonly used on linen, shirting and sturdy silk, place edge of lace approximately 1/3 of an inch parallel with the edge of the material, then use longest stitch for basting, and thereafter cover neatly with zigzag stitches to create a small overcast, 29. Edge stitcher with guide No 26362 (At an extra charge) To obtain a shelled edge (illustr. 36) use foot No 41350 and special guide for cording No 26362. The latter is secured on the needle plate. This guide should be moved as close to 40 |Al Illustr. 37 Setecutting the superfluous material with a pair of scissors. Use a wide zigzag stitch for attaching lace to sturdy materials if you want the lace slightly overlapping at the edge or stoated edge to edge. On fine silk, batiste, etc., the lace or the piece to be inserted should first be pasted with straight stitches. Then, after the projecting margin is folded or ironed, take a line of zigzag stitches over the folded edge and cut away the waste with the scissors. In this manner, unravelling of the lace is prevented. For lace insertions or curtains proceed as follows: First, fasten the lace according to illustr. 37 on both sides of the material with straight stitches, cut open the material on the wrong side, folding it to the left and right. Both folded edges are then covered with zigzag stitches, as above described and, this done, cut off the waste material. For rolling on lace, the lace rolling attachment No 41746 has proved to be most useful, especially on cushions, bed spreads, curtains, etc. Take off the ordi- nary sewing foot and, in its place, screw on attachment No 41746. Place the lace over the guiding pin under- neath the sole of the at- 4746 tachment. Then introduce the material, right side up, 1 in the small curl and run it exactly as in the case of hemming. Make sure that the zigzag stitch will grasp and neatly cover the rolled seam together with the edge of the lace. Note that the guide for feeding the lace as also the small curl can be ad- justed by means of the small fastening screw under- neath the attachment. Lace rolling attachment No 41746 is supplied on special request and at an extra charge. Ilustr. 38 A2Ilustr. 39 31, Overedging (overcasting) Now, with the zigzag arrangement available for over- edging or overcasting as well as cleaning of edges to guard against unravelling, a ot of time can be saved by using the ordinary zigzag foot No 44088. All you need do is to put the material under, the needle will go from left to right, and the right side where the needle would go should not miss the edge of the ma- terial. The overcast stitch is success- fully used in the making of lingerie, children’s gar- ments, etc., require- ing a neatly finish- ed hem. For profes- sional looking work we suggest that the Ilustr. 40 edge be folded overslightly and then fastened with zigzag stitches, cutting off the waste material with the scissors. To give the garment an added touch of beauty, you may run a further line of small zigzag stitches along the overedging you have so effectively done. 32. Cording foot No. 41621 (At an extra charge) 2 41621 41621 Ilustr. 41 33. Appliqué work With this foot you can produce ornamental seams with the greatest of ease. The cord is fed through the small hole in the front of the sole of the foot and reinforced with zigzag stitches. You may employ a different color for upper thread, or use colored cording, which- ever is the most suitable for the desired effect. Appliqué work has become extremely popular of late with the use of the zigzag machine. Tilustr. 42 For this work, foot No. 46121 should be employed. It is suggested that you use a fast color, embroidery thread or even silk for the upper thread, vide table “Needles and Threads." Ap- pliqué work has been generally applied to hats, dresses, table cov- ers, linens, etc. The simplicity of theappliqué is obvious. The figure or des- ign to be appliqued should be either basted or pinned to the right side of the material, while the design should be drawn on the wrong side. In this manner the right side with the appliqué will face the needle plate while sewing. Another advantage of this procedure is the absence of any contour lines of the design after the superfluous material has been cut away Illustr. 43 34, Braiding is another means of producing ornamental work on garments, curtains and the like and consist of apply- ing narrow braid by means of a straight stitch. Two different procedures can be applied: 1. The braid is stitched to the upper side of the pre- designed material with the aid of braiding foot No. 25548 or foot No. 46121. The braid is guided through the slot in the foot which acts as a track. Our advice is to guide the material and braid so that the needle will always stitch in the center of the braid following the lines of design. Since the Mlustr, 44 Ilustr. 45N braid coming from top is obstructing the design, thereby rendering the guidance more difficult, the second procedure is mostly preferred. . The braid is guided from underneath; the design to be braided is drawn on the wrong side of the material to be guided, wrong side up, under the sewing foot No. 46121. The braid is fed through the channel of the braiding plate No. 44636 close to the needle and stitched from underneath to the top side of the material. Thereby guiding of the Mlustr. 46 46material is greatly facilitated resulting in neat performance of the -braiding job. 35. Darning Smaller holes and thin sections can be mended by simple lines of stitching taken to and fro with the ordinary sewing foot. If a quantity of work has to be mended, the Pfaff 230 will prove a reliable help- mate. Begin by disengaging the feeding system, substitute the sewing foot for the darning attachment No. 53001 and fastened it in accordance with illustration 46. The guiding of the material can be greatly facilitated by using the small cover plate No. 41251. Next, insert darning hook No. 46128 so as to place its long curved part around the thumb screw, as shown in illustr. 46. The short angular end is inserted in the small hole near the presser foot lever. Use only soft darning yarn Nos. 40—80 in shades matching those of the garments to be mended (see table “Needles and Threads’). For good darning results it is ad- visible to use an embroidery hoop of adequate size to give the material extra tightness and if a large hole is evident. Upper tension should be slightly less than under tension. There are several darning techniques, Illustr. 47 one is to take AToy ee ee nh 6. Turn milled disc R to the right until lever G points to the required overstitch width of approxi- mately 1/8 of an inch (position 3). When turning lever G to the right stop, the approriate width of the row (1.5) is likewise limited. 7, Make a trial with zigzag stitches 1 16 of an inch wide using a filler thread. Adjust the feeding system so that the zigzag stitches come to lie very close to each other. 8. Set the tread tensions in accordance with the work. Ilustr. 51 For ordinary flat buttonholes, both upper and lower tensions should be a bit tight to obtain a well drawn-in stitch, For raised buttonholes, the tension of the underthread should be very loose while that of the upper thread should be tight so that the interlocking of both threads will take effect on the 50 — << ~_.surface of the material and both threads will lie straight. Use cotton No 40 in the needle and mercerized thread No. 60—80 in the spool. When making ordinary buttonholes, apply mercerized cotton No. 60 or 80 in the needle and spool. 9. Mark position and size of the buttonhole on the material, using pencil or a piece of tailor chalk (Never use an ink pencil!). The flat buttonhole consists of row 1, bartack 1, row 2 and bartack 2. If you proceed in this order, following the illustration on the next page, making of button- holes will be most easy and, after a few minutes of trying, you will delight at the neat work you have accomplished. 5137. Directions for buttonholing 1. Stitch first row or lenght with zigzag stitches of 11/45 —5/oa"". 2, Leave needle in the material, at the right of the seam. 3. Raise presser bar! Turn material in the direction of the arrow and release presser foot. start — Anfang row = Raupe bartack — Riegel Ilustr. 52 ‘apuy afoyuoying YM Buruedo nD 6 ‘speaiyy jjo yno pue yoryreq dn Mag “Burgos yybyesys 1oy euLyeUT JS * ssayows Bezbyz ebrey WM ypryieq puosas ayPW “sayoins fezbiz yews yy ybue] 10 Mor puodes oY * “ANySus [eueyeut Hurureyot Aq ,,1%/g—8/1 jo says Hezbiz 9—p Bursn ‘yoryreq Sty ayeW * yyeT ay) 0} aLOW YOINs eu ExPL ” 52| EREEEESE ES EE To To To 3, To To To de Turn zigzag lever G to the right stop (Limiting lever Z in its left position!) . Leave needle in the material at the right of the seam so that the finished row after turning the garment is in the slot of the presser foot. For best results, turn the material in the direc- tion of the arrow. . Take one more stitch to the left to regulate the distance for row 2 and to obtain the correct position for bartack 1. . Turn lever G farther to the left until it engages in the 9/64" position (3.5). . Turn back lever G until it engages in No. 2 position. Turn lever G only if needle is raised or at the left, in the material, Make sure to guide the first row in the slot of the presser foot when doing the second. Make second row a little bit shorter so that the start of the first row will be covered by bartack 2. . For second bartack, turn lever G to the left until it engages in the 3.5 position. When bartacking, retain material to assure neat and close stitches. Leave needle in the material at the left . Finish buttonhole by 3—4 ordinary plain stitches while retaining material, When releas- ing lever G, it automatically returns to position 1.5 so that the machine is exactly adjusted for the next buttonhole. . Cut off sewing and filler threads and cut open- ing of buttonhole with one of the knives supp- lied with the machine, If the buttonhole is large, finish cutting by using a pair of pointed scissors. While cutting, take care not to injure the buttonhole, 53Important: Important: 54 If the buttonholes are on very thin and flimsy fabrics, apply a piece of tissue paper underneath and remove this care- fully after the buttonholes are completed. On tricot and light materials, it is advisable to insert a piece of shirting to guard against unravelling of buttonholes. Another means to increase the firmness of the buttonhole is the use of a filler thread which is guided through the small hole in the prong of the presser foot. (illustr. 56) The filler thread should be a thicker grade of cotton and selected in accordance with the material. If no ready made filler thread is available, crochet yarn or several layers of sewing thread will also do. For ordinary sewing work after having finished buttonholing, turn limiting lever Z to the right and the milled disc to the left so that the zigzag lever G can be adjusted for the largest overstitch, Illustr. 53BEEBREESSE SEE EE 38. Bartacking and galloons The buttonhole foot is also made for bartacking on pockets as well as for galloons. For bartacking, a thread is guided trough the tube in the foot and overseamed with close zigzag stitches, similar to buttonholing. Always make a few lock stitches at the beginning and end for added strenght. 39. Sewing on buttons which once was so tedious a task, is now so simple on the Pfaff 230, For either 2 or 4 hole buttons, it is suggested that foot No 46120 be inserted. However, it is necessary = that the feed be lowered € 5 and the button placed under the foot so that the 46120 46120 needle in the right position will stitch exactly through Mlustr. 54 the right hole of the button. It is essential that high quality thread be used in the needle or, in special cases, silk No 70—100 in connection wit the corresponding needle (size 80—90). The button should be placed into the position marked on the material and then the work placed under the needle, the foot on top of the button; the needle then is put \ in the right hole and th F over to the left, by > 2 means of turning the balance wheel by hand in order to ensure the correct spacing of the 55 Illustr. 55needle to avoid breakage of needle points. ¥ It is important that the zigzag stitch be adjusted according to the distance from hole to hole, It is Mlustr. 56 advisable that 4 or 5 stitches be applied to each side of the button. For added strength we suggest that a few ordinary straight stitches be applied directly into the hole position. When the 4 hole button is sewn on, simply move the material backward with the button and repeat operation as above. After the last stitch has been made, leave needle at the right, in the material, and do a few straight stitches to guard against unravelling. 40, Hemstitching For hemstitching apply hinged foot No 44088. A soft embroidery or darning thread is recommended for this type of work. The needle should not be stronger than size 70 or 80. Begin by drawing a number of threads in the desired width between the two lines which will form the spacing of the hemstitch. Now set the width of the zigzag stitch on 2 or 2.5, varying with the grade of material. The length of the stitch is selected according to the design used in gathering the hemstitching. Lower thread tension should be slughtly tighter for better effect. To complete the operation the zigzagstitch should now be applied to both edges or the distance created in the spacing of the threads which were pulled. Since the stitches have to be applied in opposite direction, we advise that one side be sewn and the material reversed and the same method be applied to the other side. To do more creative designs in hemstitching work, numerous patterns can be produced by varying the spacing and tying the bundles of thread, as shown in illustr, 57, 5741, Picot edging Cutting the threads of the ordinary hemstitch will result in a picot, as used on dresses, scarfs, etc, to guard against unravelling of the edges. The use of colored j thread is specially effective to add a touch of finesse to the garment 42. Monogramming Underwear and particularly suitable for monogramming. This specific work can be well and easily done on the Pfaff 230. The first stage is to replace the ordinary sewing foot by the darning hook —see chapter on “Darning’. The bottom tension should then be tightened and the feeder lowered. Use | other garments are i embroidery thread, RApRAn Aare! ANNA } size 50—80, and a {ily | fit li ae needle, size 7080. WHA HOIAN VA MAE UR Tlustr. 57 58BEE E aaa Ea a Trace the design on the material, then place the material evenly in the hoops, taking care that there are no creases; then bring the work under the needle, lower the presser bar to re-engage the top tension. The machine should now be put in position for zigzag stitching by setting the lever in No. 1.5; 2; 2.5; 3 or even 4, depending on the size of lettering required. All that need now be done is simply to follow the lines of the design. When the work is finished, fasten with a few straight stitches. Illustr. 58 Embroidering monograms requires practice in guiding the embroidery hoop under the needle and in accord- ance with the sewing speed. Therefore, the more simple procedure of stitching monogramms is mostly preferred whereby the machine feeds the material For the latter kind of monogramming, the use of foot No, 43737 with cord guide is recommended which can be had on request and at an extra charge. The feed is to be adjusted as in the case of buttonholing so that the zigzag stitches are lying close together. Guide the embroidery hoop so that the middle of the row exactly covers the lines of the design. 43, Festoon work For this type of work a soft embroidery thread No. 40—60 should be used in conjunction with needle size 80—90. Here also the presser foot is removed, 59the darning hook inserted and the feeder lowered. The bottom tension should be set rather tight. When the machine is set and the work placed under the needle, the presser bar is lowered and the curves and corners outlined with short stitches, This done, Illustr. 59 adjust machine in No 2, 3 or 4 position, depending on the width of the festoons. Now embroider with close zigzag stitches, passing a filler thread along the outer curve for added strength. Finish by cutting off the surplus material, close to the embroidery, using a pair of sharp scissors, 44, Eyelet and circle embroidering A special set of attachments for making eyelet- and circle embroideries on the Pfaff 230 which can be easely added to your standard machine, is available at an extra charge under No 50114, With this attach- ment, you cannot only perform ordinary eyelet embroidering but also circular stitchings upto a dia- meter of 2%/4 inches. 2 special slides with stud enable you to do circle embroidering from 4°/1s—6""/16 inches, The Pfaff Eyelet and Circle Embroidery Attachment for your machine carries number 46450. 60Set No 50114 supplied in a separate box embraces the following parts: 1 slide with guiding stud 2 No 46463 br i aff " @ No 46465 i ae Ai i &@ No 46467 1, 4 needle pin S No 46458 for circles upto 23/4" & 2 punches 1 punching block On request and at an extra charge: 1 slide with guiding stud s" B No 46461 Ce Ce a ie 2 No 46469 ee " ” s: S No 46471 1 iw - needle pin 2 No 46483 for circles from 45/16 to 6"/16" © 1,» guiding stud '/s" 2 No 46480 for circles from 4°/16 to 6'/16" & 1 attachment for fancy strappings, ric rac, etc. No 46691, complete, consisting of: 1 guide for fancy strappings and ric rac No 46688 and guide for cord and woolen thread No, 46687 1 attachment for cord and woolen thread only, No 46685, complete embroidery hoop 57/s" & To fasten the attachment: { 1. Lower feed dog. fi 2. Remove presser foot 3. Insert darning hook. 624. Open bedplate slide. Insert the attachment according to illustr, 61 so that the pin on its bottom enters recess of needle plate. 6. Close bedplate slide. Ilustr. 61 To change the slides: | 1. Remove the attachment from the machine. 2. Turn adjusting disc C to zero position. 3. Lift slide at its left until coupling pin e can leave its guide in the feeding lever. 4. Turn slide so that it can fall down or draw it out in upward direction (illustr. 62), @OEEBREREE ESSE SS 63. ' 5. To insert another slide, keep it with your right i hand, the attachment with your left. Insert slide from below, according to illustr.62, by turning g it evenly and push it from bottom into the guide i of the feeding lever (illustr. 63). 6. Turn adjusting disc c to position 10 in order to prevent that the slide falls out when the aitach- ment is inserted. 7 Insert attachment, close bedplate slide. Mustr. 62 I To operate the attachment: x | 1. For ordinary eyeletting and eyelet embroidering, I } adjust machine for left stitch position (stitch po- 1 sition lever H upwards to the left), according to illustr. 14, iSGEEEES S&S & Must. 63 Illustr. 64 65Important: When using slide with needle pin or doing circle embroideries with inside diameters of #/s’* and more, the stitch position can be chosen at will. . When inserting the material into the embroidery hoop, draw it very tight in order to avoid skipping of the stitches. . Follow the thread when stretching the material so that circles out of center are avoided. . When inserting the embroidery hoop, slide the guide stud to the right. When doing eyelet and circle embroideries, mark position of the centers only. 3.In the case of small eyelets, pierce the material with the aid of a chisel and press it over the guide stud. .For larger eyelets with guide studs from */16" © upwards mark the center by cross cuts or use the punch for making a relatively small hole which fits tightly the guide stud f. .Turn adjusting disc c so that the needle, after having set for the required overstitch, slightly catches the material in its right position (Ilustr. 64). Important: Adjust your machine very carefuily in order to avoid needle breakage which may occur if guide stud f is improperly set. Turn the embroidery hoop steadily at constant speed of the machine. . After having finished the turn, set machine for straight stitching and make a few ordinary stitches.11. Important: When embroidering several circles or sectors of circles from the same center, pull the end of the under thread up- wards and cut it off after two or three stitches since otherwise, it is wound around the guide stud thereby making it impossible to turn the hoop. 12. Embroider the inner circle first in order to get a durable guide around the stud. 13. For stitching subsequent circles, loosen stop lever d and turn adjusting disc c to the right. 14,Lock the attachment by turning lever d to its right stop (illustr. 64). 15, For circle embroideries without center hole, insert slide with needle pin. In the case of thin and fine materials, turn the embroidery hoop very care- fully to avoid widening of the center resulting in inexact circles. If necessary, reinforce the stitch hole by overing it with a piece of thin cardboard 16. Circle embroideries can easily be embellished by attaching coloured tapes, cords, wool or golden threads. The swing-type attachment No 46691 is equipped with 2 interchangeable guides and embraces the guide piece No 46692 to which the 2 guides Nos 46687 and 46688 can be screwed upon loosening fastening screw b. (Illustr. 65). Guide piece No 46688 with wide tube is used for attaching straps, ric rac, etc. Guide piece No 46687 with narrow tube is best suitable for overstitching cord, wool or golden threads. Attachment 46691 is fastened to the presser bar ac- cording to illustr. 65. 67Ilustr. 65 68If this attachment is required with cord guide No 46687 only, order it under No 46685. Hints for the practical use of the above attachment. By changing the colors of the upper thread for all sub- sequent circles, by adjusting the width of the over- stitch and turning at low or higher speeds, attractive effects can be obtained. You can vary the patterns at will by combining ordinary eyeletting with fancy stitchings in the shape of circles or sections of circles, using small or large, tight or wide overstitches, es- pecially if you avail of the variations your machine further offers by altering the stitch position. Illustr. 66 69Most important is to operate your machine at constant speeds and to turn the embroidery hoop steadily around the guide stud. It is recommended to start with large overstitching on ordinary eyelets, until you have become acquainted with the different feeding speeds necessary for stitch- ing small or larger circles at the same stitch tightness. When this skill has been aquired, stitching of simple designs does not offer any difficulties and you will enjoy more complicated designs and especially those created by your own ideas. Your machine and its versatility in conjunction with the above attachments will prove your best helpmate in embroidering covers, blouses, skirts, aprons, etc. and it will be easy for you to give your garments an individual note. 45. Cording. For producing corded seams on the Pfaff 230, a special cording set can be supplied on request and at an extra charge, embracing 3 cording feet, 3 insertion plates and 4 interchangeable cording needle heads for fixed needle gauges in addition to an intermediate tension Illustr. 67 70eee eee eee disc for the necessary double thread tension Ordering No 50115. Since the Pfaff 230 is equipped with interchangeable needle head, it offers no difficulties to adjust your machine for cording work. To set the machine for cording. Convert the ordinary tension device into a double tension by inserting the intermediate disc of the corting set. This couble tension is likewise suitable for single needle work so that your machine, after having finished the cording work, can be left as is. Unscrew tension regulating mut with scale bell 1, according to illustration 67. Remove controller spring 2, disconnecting plate 3, and both tension discs, Push tension disc 4 over the tension pin, then insert intermediate disc disc 5, disconnecting plate 3, controller spring 2 and regulating nut 1, according to illustration 68. The correct thread tension can be regulated in accordance with par 8 Illustr. 682. Set machine for central stitch position, stitch position lever H in groove II (illustr. 14). 3. Unscrew (> fastening screw b of the single- needle head A and remove the head with the inserted needle downwards (illustr. 69). 4, Insert needle head B with the desired needle gauge from below and tighten fastening screw d (illustr. 70). 5. Open bedplate slide C and insert cording plate D with its right tongue into hole E of the needle plate so that the closed slide C will cover both fastening flaps of the cording plate. 6. Replace the ordinary sewing foot by the appro- priata cording foot of the cording set. To thread the machine for cording. Both upper threads are threaded according to illus- tration 71: From reel 1 through guide 2, between rear tension disc 3, through thread controller spring 4, upper hole 5 of the thread take-up, front cover eyelet 6, needle head eyelet 7 and then, the left needle 8 is threaded from front to rear. From reel 9, the second thread is guided through the lower hole 10 of the thread eyelet, between front disc 11 over thread controller spring 4, through the lower hole 12 of the thread take-up, front cover eyelet 6, needle head eyelet 7 and finally, into the eye 13 of the right needle. To select the cording attachments. To assure neat performance of the corded seams, it is necessary to select cording feet, insertion plates and 72Illustr. 69 Illustr. 70 73needle heads in accordance with the grade and quality of the material to be stitched. It is recommended to choose these parts in making a few trial seams first on a piece of waste material. Standard accessories for cording (included in the cording set No 50115): 4 cording needle heads for flat shank needles system 130 R, needle gauges */s2, 7/64, 9g, and '/o1 of an inch. At an extra charge, 2 additional needle heads, 1/3 and 3/32 of an inch are available. On special request, 2 needle heads for needle gauges of t/16 and */ss of an inch can be supplied for the pro- duction of very fine corded seams. In this latter case, round shank needles system 130 B are to be inserted. For cording on thin fabric, cording foot No 41317 with 3/g1"" groove and insertion plate No 41842 with : stud. To produce corded seams in parallel direction and at a larger distance from each other, loosen fasten- ing screw C (illustr. 71), apply guide 25811, adjusting this for the desired spacing, using the preceding seam for guidance. For ordinary cording on medium heavy materials, the use of cording foot No 41319 is recommended. This foot carries 5 grooves, each '/:6 of an inch wide and deep. The corresponding insertion plate carries No 41843, the respective stud messuring °/61 of an inch, For very close seams, the grooves of the foot are used as guides. Heavier type cording work on medium light materials is produced with cording foot No 41318 carrying 3 grooves of which each is approximately 1/16 of an inch wide and deep. The corresponding insertion plate carries No 41844, the respective stud measuring */01 of an inch. 74If a filler thread is being used for very solid cording, apply cording foot No 41318, feeding a cord up to 3/«: of an inch thick through the guide of insertion plate No 41842, Special cording attachments (supplied on request and at an extra charge only). For cording on silk, use cording foot No 41641 with 7 grooves of which each is approximately */s:"" wide and deep; there being no need for a special insertion in this case. For very close and delicate cording, on flims silks, we supply a cording foot with 9 grooves No 41671, each 1/s2'' wide and 1/1" deep. This work requires no insertion plates, For cording on thick and woolly materials, apply cording foot No 42378 with 3 grooves each 1/s"" wide and */s:‘* deep in connection with insertion plate No 41845 and °/ei" stud. Heavy cording work on thick materials or felt requires cording foot No 46495 and insertion plate No 105997. Here, the grooves are '/s“ wide and ''/ss" deep, the stud being */s2" high. The use of insertion plate No 105996 permits the feed- ing of a filler thread up to */s1" thick, while plate No 42586 allows a filler, */s1" thick, for a special cording work. Note: Differences in the type and thickness of the materials require frequent variation in the use of the above mentioned cording feet and inser- tion plates. That is why we recommend to first make a few essays on a patch of the given material in order to establish the proper com- bination of feet and insertion plates. ~_— a ae eee ee ieee 46. Fancy seams (Ornamental stitchings). Three-needle work (illustr. 72): On special request and at an extra charge, a set of special attachments for doing this specife work on the Pfaff 230 can be supplied. A needle holder head for 3 round shank needles system 130 B enables you to adjust your machine for triple zigzag stitches of °/s1 of an inch wide. The 3 needle set also embraces a triple upper thread tension with large controller spring in addition to a triple thread guide and a third reel. An insertion plate with cord guide to be used in conjunction with the ordinary cording foot No 46121 enables you to simul- taneously attach a cord to the underside of the material, thereby offering further possibilities, for making and decorating sleeves on blouses, gar- ments, etc. On request, we supply a further special cording foot with 2 grooves and a cording plate with double cord guide. These are best suitable for stitching double cording work with 2 cord insertions, considerably increasing the range of varieties in the manufacture of ladies’ and children’s wear. Two-needle work (illustr. 73): The cording set above mentioned also contains a two needle head for fancy double seams at smallest distances, using small over- stitches. For this special job, foot No 46121 is to be recommended, Single needle fancy stitchings (illustr. 73): By rhythm- ically operating your machine for straight and zigzag stitches of different width and length, your machine offers an immense variety of fancy stitching which can even be enlarged by changing the stitch position. The hinged zigzag foot No 44088 attached to your machine will do for this specific procedure. ceaRIDA RGR EDIE IE LL IAL SPIES AERIAL ISSI IP IFLA LIA ne, 4 5p ROR ADIL DA PLR ESP DILDOS SDLP LPL ALP ALIS ILI Illustr. 72~~. << << ewe ee Paar wees owen wan en wwe! at wl nt et ser es art ar san a gg tl gp re a a§) 11, 12; 19% 14, 15; 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 80 SEPNAnawne INDEX Preface Front view Rear view I. General Instructions for the Pfaff 230 To set up the machine . To thread the needle To wind the bobbin . : To remove the bobbin case . To insert the bobbin case . . To pull out the under thread . . The needle . eee eRe . To regulate the thread tensions . . To regulate the length of stitch . To adjust the machine for straight stitching in the middle of the needle hole To adjust the straight stitch position . The adjustment of the zigzag stitch . To limit the width of the overstitch . To remove the front cover Aas To regulate pressure of the presser foot To lower the feed The rotary hook . To remove the flywheel To oil and clean the machine Some hints for the detection and elimination of minor causes of trouble Page 6 10 it 11 12 13 15 17 17 21 21 21 23 24 28: 26 27 31 == SS eee SS SOt IL. Instructions for using accessories and attachments Page 21. The hinged presser foot No 44088 . . . . 35 22. The sewing foot with round needle hole INO: 45087 5 ws) og 5 es vhs 2 et 3 OD } - The quilter No 41350 “ we oo s # 7 38 . Edge guide No 41297 . . . . . . . 36 . Hemmer feet No 41246 and No 41248. . . . 36 26. The feller No 41242. . 2. 2...) . . 37 - Foot No 41249 for rolled hems. . . . . , 38 28. Foot No 42141 for shell work . . . . , » 39 29. Edge stitcher with guide No 26362. . . . . 40 30. Attaching, inserting and rolling on lace . . 40 |2 31. Overedging (overcasting). . . . , ~ 9 4S {% 32. Cording foot No 41621. . . oe . 44 33. Appliqué work out oe - . 44 | 34. Braiding . 2... , oe e are 1 45) | 35. Darning . . . ~ J eng. Cea? 36. Buttonholes a eee es . PR 37. Directions for buttonholing . . SF » 92 38. Bartacking and galloons . ecm » BS 39. Sewing on buttons. . . . 1 » OS 40. Hemstitching . 7 «ns wm & » . 56 Al. Picot edging . eas Pee ws ws OS 42. Monogramming 4 Eee « % « 38 43. Festoon work... . ‘ ss 4 5 a bed 44. Eyelet and circle embroidering. . + ta) GO) 45. Cording . 2. 2. , Z © tape ral) 46. Fancy seams (ornamental stitchings) .. 7No. 8252 R 254 Printed in West Germany