PA S T R Y BAKING C H O C O L AT E BREAD FROZEN

PASTRY ARTS ISSUE NO. 13 FALL 2021

Once In A Tile
B y L a u r e n K o

Innovating With Chocolate • The Logic of Logistics • Advancements in Apple Development

Sourcing Clean-Label, Natural Ingredients • Heirloom Grains Lost and Found Again
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Contents
Features

62
96

16
16
Cheryl Day
The Craft of Southern Baking

62
Lincoln Carson
On Resetting, Leading and His Latest Venture 104
90
Lauren Ko
From Pitfalls to Perfection

104
Katie Bonzer
Turning Small Business Dreams into Reality

Pastry Arts 3
 YOUR
CREATIONS
ARE
PURE
GENIUS.

OUR FRUIT SOLUTIONS ARE TOO.

For over 75 years Les vergers Boiron has been focusing all our energy
and expertise into developing fruit solutions that promote your talent.
The result: Products and services that make your life easier and
guarantee that the taste, color and texture are the closest to the fruit you
can get.
The secret: Selection of the best varieties, cutting-edge know-how and
making sure we always stay tuned to your needs.

my-vb.com
Contents
32 47

12
Trends
12
Fruit Forward: Advancements in Apple
Development
66
56
Evocao: An Innovative New Wholefruit Chocolate

Columns
32
Business Bites: The Logic of Logistics

42 70 110
Flavor Inspiration: Combos and Technical Tips

66
New & Notable: Latest Products, Equipment General
and Books
26
76 Our Heritage: Heirloom Grains Lost
Chocolate Talk: Innovating While Honoring the and Found Again
Timelessness
52
84 Natural Food Colors: Sourcing Clean-Label,
Expert Tips: Five Pros Share High-Level Advice Natural Ingredients

110 98
Specialty Desserts with Chef Richard Hawke Teacher Feature with Richard Miscovich

Pastry Arts 5
 SUGAR,
REDEFINED
Contents
118 138

114
Recipes 142
114
Appelina by Emmanuel Hamon

118
Chevre Cheesecake by Heather Campbell

122
158 166
Dark Chocolate and Raspberry Petit Gateau by
Nicholas Forte

128
Chocolate Brandy by Manuel Bouillet Places
132 158
Modern Pear Tart by Mathias Boirie L’Artisane Creative Bakery

138 162
Opéra Cake by Maxime Maniez Mrs. Joy’s Absolutely Fabulous Treats

142 166
‘Cocoanut’ by Nitin Bali Marble Dessert Dining

146 170
Carrot Halwa by Grayson Claes Wicked Donuts

150 174
Spiced Candy Red Apple Delice by Bertie Tanaya Holler Treats

Pastry Arts 7
 Be inspired.

Explore deZaan’s new cocoa powder range for professionals.

dezaan.com @dezaancocoa #thinkcocoa #dezaancocoa

 Pastry mArts
ag azin e
Advisory Board
Pastry Arts Magazine En-Ming Hsu
151 N. Maitland Ave #947511 En-Ming Hsu is a World Pastry Champion and
Maitland, FL 32751
Email: contact@pastryartsmag.com Chef Instructor at The French Pastry School. Hsu
Website: pastryartsmag.com has been acknowledged as a “Rising Star Chef,”
“Pastry Chef of the Year in America,” in addition to
EDITORIAL receiving a “Lifetime Achievement Award,” “Best
Editor-in-Chief Pastry Chef in Chicago,” and “One of the Top 10
Shawn Wenner Pastry Chefs in America” by Pastry Art & Design and
Chocolatier magazines.
Managing Editor
Tish Boyle
Staff Writers Jansen Chan
Meryle Evans Jansen Chan is the former Director of Pastry
AnnMarie Mattila Operations at the International Culinary Center
Contributors (ICC), and founded Pastry Plus at ICC. He’s been
Robert Wemischner, Eunice Escobedo, Donald Wressell, featured in high-profile publications such as Food
Regina Varolli, Genevieve Sawyer, Harmony Sage, & Wine magazine, Art Culinaire, and Baking and
Richard Hawke, Bertie Tanaya, Emmanuel Hamon, Pastry: North America.
Heather Campbell, Nicholas Forte, Manuel Bouillet,
Mathias Boirie, Maxime Maniez, Nitin Bali, Grayson Claes
Kimberly Brock Brown
Cover Kimberly Brock Brown is a Certified Executive
Once in a Tile
By Lauren Ko Pastry Chef, Certified Culinary Administrator,
and was the first African-American female chef
Cover Photography inducted into the American Academy of Chefs.
Courtesy of Lauren Ko
She was a Founding Member of the ACF-National
CREATIVE Pastry and Baking Guild, a Dale Carnegie graduate,
and has medaled in several chef competitions.
Graphic Designer
Rusdi Saleh
Melissa Coppel
BUSINESS Melissa Coppel attended The French Pastry School
President and worked at Joel Robuchon at the Mansion, a
Shawn Wenner three-star Michelin restaurant, and ran the pastry
Publisher kitchen at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Las Vegas.
Jeff Dryfoos She was named one of the “Top 10 Chocolatiers
in North America” by Dessert Professional Magazine
ADVERTISING and currently owns and operates The Melissa
For advertising availability & rates, contact Jeff Dryfoos at Coppel Chocolate and Pastry School in Las Vegas.
SALES@PASTRYARTSMAG.COM

The opinions of columnists and contributors are their own.

Miro Uskokovic
Publication of their writing does not imply endorsement Miro Uskokovic is a graduate of the Culinary
by Pastry Arts Magazine and/or Rennew Media, LLC. Institute of America and is the Pastry Chef at
Sources are considered reliable and information is verified Gramercy Tavern. Chef Miro’s contemporary
as much as possible, however, inaccuracies may occur and American desserts are created out of a collection
readers should use the information at their own risk. Links
embedded within the publication may be affiliate links, of personal memories and experiences, as well as
which means Pastry Arts Magazine will earn a commission international influence.
at no additional cost to our readers. No part of this
magazine may be reproduced in any fashion without the
expressed consent of Rennew Media, LLC. For advertising Ron Ben-Israel
information, letters to the editor, or submission inquiries, Ron Ben-Israel is the owner of Ron Ben-Israel
please email: contact@pastryartsmag.com. Cakes. He’s been featured in countless books, TV
shows, films and publications, and was the host
Pastry Arts Magazine and judge for three seasons on the Food Network’s
Published by Rennew Media, LLC Sweet Genius, as well as a judge for three seasons
© Copyright 2021, Rennew Media, LLC on Cake Wars.
All Rights Reserved

Pastry Arts 9
 EDITOR’S NOTE
Editor’s Note

A
I
t the start of every year, roughly 40% of people officially make New
t’s official, Pastry Arts Magazine is now three years old! I’ll never
Year’s resolutions, while the rest typically have some particular goal
forget those Incredibly,
in mind. early conversations
only aboutwith 8% Jeff Dryfoos
achieve theirand Tish Boyle
resolutions and a
in 2018 as we discussed the foundation of what would
staggering 92% fail. Everything from starting a business, getting become
a full-blown
in better multimedia
shape, managing platform
stress better, – with
there’s an unexpected
a myriad but
of lifestyle changes
peoplewelcomed
desire. meteoric rise, I might add. Interestingly enough, we
originally
For you, thought the platform
I’m guessing a primarywould
goal isstrictly
one ofserve the American
two things; launch apastry
business
scene, or
venture however,
grow one weyou’re
quickly amassed
currently a global
running. Why audience,
else would thus allowing
you be reading
us to serve the
Entrepreneurial global
Chef, right? pastry community.
That said, Andwant
if you truly at the risk of sounding
to dominate this year as
a corny, I have to say it
food entrepreneur, I’dwas a prettyyou
encourage rad evolution.
to focus explicitly on your thoughts,
feelings
Thatandsaid,behaviors. Because
for this issue’s as they
note, say, your
I’m simply thoughts
extending create your
a heartfelt reality.
thank
In this
you to our issue, wesubscribers,
loyal connected with Chris and
followers, Cosentino
the dozensas ourofcover story and
companies
hewhoproved
havethat someone
supported ourwho gets
efforts in tune
along with Whether
the way. their thoughts, feelings and
you purchased
behaviors
a single issue, subscription, registered for the Pastry Arts career.
can make massive positive changes both in their life and VirtualAnd
Cosentino
Summit, listengives to
anthe
extremely raw Podcast,
Pastry Arts account of or his journey
follow that will
our social no doubt
channels
leave you charge and inspired.
for inspiration, you have played a role in our growth. And you have
Additionally,
fueled insidefor
our passion thismaking
issue, we tackle
Pastry upcoming
Arts Magazine trends, branding,
a premier financial
resource
management,
in the industry. employee relations, and connect with various food entrepreneurs
who shed light on what made them successful.
We appreciate you more than you know, and we value the opportunity
As always,
to serve thewe hopecommunity
pastry you enjoy the each latest
and issue
everyand
day.pick up some fresh ideas,
inspiration, and actionable advice.

With gratitude,
Cheers,

Shawn Wenner
Editor-in-Chief entrepreneurial chef 9

Pastry Arts 11
Trends

Fruit Forward
Advancements in
Apple Development
By AnnMarie Mattila

Cosmic Crisp apples

were developed by
pomologists to answer
the demand for new
varieties of crisp and
juicy apples.

12 Pastry Arts
 W
hen you read the phrase “advances in apple
development,” it’s easy to picture the latest
smartphone rather than the official state fruit
of Washington and New York. Yet, orchards
have been at the innovation forefront for
decades, specifically in the development of new varieties. And this
new crop of apple breeds isn’t just advantageous to growers and
consumers, but bakers as well. With better shelf life, improved
flavors and textures, and huge marketing budgets behind them,
these new apples are pushing the future of fruit forward.

The launch of the Cosmic Crisp in 2019 had

perhaps the most fanfare an apple received in Cosmic Crisp
the market in decades. First developed in 1997 Skillet Apple Pie.
at Washington State University and patented in
2014, the new breed is touted for its superior
qualities. For growers, the trees are developed
from dwarfing rootstock, meaning they can
plant more in less space to increase yield. The
fruit is also less susceptible to bruising and
browning and has a significant storage life of
a year after harvest, similar to its cousin the
Enterprise apple.
Of course, pristine, long-lasting apples are
huge benefits to direct consumers, as well. But
it’s the flavor and texture profile that stands out
most. The director of their marketing campaign,
Kathryn Grandy, describes it as “enormously
crunchy and wipe-your-face juicy,” which it
can thank for its relation to the Honeycrisp.
That certainly was no accident. Increased
market demand for crisp and juicy apples in
recent decades sent pomologists on the path
to develop new varieties to quench consumer
thirst. Similar new releases like Autumn Glory,
SweeTango and SnapDragon have hit shelves in
hopes of capturing brand loyalty for the same
qualities.

Pastry Arts 13
 Cosmic Crisp
Mother Tree

And while certainly interesting for growers Because of their crisp texture and high level
and consumers alike, these new breeds also of sweetness, they also bake extremely well.
benefit bakers. Even older breeds of apples Cosmic Crisp recently teamed up with pastry
have a longer shelf life than most fruit. Coupled chef and pie maven Erin Jeanne McDowell to
with their popularity in desserts, apples are promote their brand with a series of recipes.
mainstays on menus for most of the year. These She describes the apple as “truly flavorful
new breeds can further prolong that possibility sweetness balanced with a bit of tart” and
because of their storage capability. And since “incredibly juicy,” leading to what she refers to
the Cosmic Crisp doesn’t oxidize quickly as “a perfect flavor storm for baking.” The apple
when sliced, it removes the limitations that also has strong structural integrity
browning causes in certain applications. when cooked, making
Think of improving pie production, applications like pies,
for instance, by eliminating the fritters, dumplings
immediate need of acid. Even and cake all
raw slices as a component to possible.
a dish become a possibility.
According to Domex
Superfresh Growers,
“Since Cosmic Crisp
doesn’t brown, having
slices on a plate look Cosmic Crisp
fresh all afternoon.” Dessert Tarts.

14 Pastry Arts
 But apple advancements do not come caramel notes” hold up well in both savory and
cheap. Cosmic Crisp launched with a $10 sweet dishes for the back. Branded names have
million marketing price tag its first year. dedicated websites and social media accounts
Competition from international sources and packed with recipe ideas from seared scallops
pricing pressure from supermarkets make the with apple reduction to miniature French apple
market increasingly difficult. And despite the tarts.
counter-culture-turned-mainstream movement And whether or not new apples spark your
towards preserving heritage and heirloom interest, chances are, you will continue to hear
varieties, there is still huge customer demand about them. Both Autumn Glory and Cosmic
for consistency in taste and appearance. Even Crisp saw significant increases in sales by early
the pandemic push towards online grocery 2021, 40 and 48 percent respectively. Their
shopping made it increasingly important to popularity and production are steadily growing,
market new breeds as branded names to gain as are their marketing budgets. So don’t be
loyalty. surprised if one day soon, customer demand
Perhaps not surprisingly then, many new for certain brand names starts to bake into
apple types come with culinary application your business. Because perhaps for them, an
suggestions as part of their marketing strategy apple by any other name won’t taste as sweet.
to further their use and popularity. Autumn
Glory, for instance, is touted as “an ideal cocktail
base” for the front of house while its “sweet Photo by Proprietary Variety Management

The strong structural

integrity of the Cosmic
Crisp apple makes it
ideal for baking, as
in this Cosmic Crisp
Celebration Cake.

Pastry Arts 15
Profile

Cheryl Day
Celebrating Her Roots and
the Craft of Southern Baking,
Every Day By Tish Boyle

16 Pastry Arts
 A
s the co-owner of the well-known Back in the Day
Bakery in Savannah, Georgia, and co-author of the
beloved Back in the Day cookbooks, Cheryl Day has
become one of the most important voices in American
baking today, most notably on the craft of Southern
baking. She and her husband Griff opened their bakery
in 2002, motivated by a discovery Cheryl made after
the death of her mother, Janie Queen. Cheryl found Janie Queen’s journal – full
of letters, songs, poetry and recipes – and discovered that her great-great-
grandmother Hannah Queen Grubbs was born enslaved in 1838, and had been
an accomplished pastry cook who was well known for her buttermilk biscuits,
sweet potato pies and other Southern specialties. It was this discovery and
the realization that she came from a long line of women who cooked and who
followed their dreams, that inspired Cheryl to pursue her own.
Cheryl tells the story of her baking heritage in her first solo book, the newly
released Cheryl Day’s Treasury of Southern Baking (Artisan; 2021). With over
200 recipes that reflect the culture of from-scratch Southern baking – while
highlighting the ingredients and specialties that make Southern food so unique –
this book is destined to become the new bible of Southern baking. We recently
spoke with Cheryl about the book, the bakery and other projects that are close
to her heart.

The Q&A
Where did you learn to bake?
I grew up in Los Angeles, and when I became a certain age,
I took an annual trip to spend summers in Alabama with my
grandmother. And I think the most important thing I learned
was just about Southern hospitality, the whole experience of
Southern baking, which was for her using all fresh ingredients,
no matter how many purveyors’ or farmers’ markets she had to
go through. And then she picked a lot of things from her own
garden and from the fruit trees that she had, but it was just all
very fresh, letting the ingredients shine. She taught me a lot
about being resourceful in the kitchen and just really making
food that was simple, letting the ingredients shine through.

Cheryl’s Cheese Straws. Pastry Arts 17

 needed to present to your customers
in order to make your business work?
Yeah, absolutely. I mean, for me it was the right
choice. There were some points when I thought,
would I have learned things differently? But to
be honest, like a lot of creative people, I enjoy
learning but I don’t learn well in school. So,
this was hands-on, this was learning, making
mistakes, trial and error, like you said, making
things everyday over and over and over and
over again, practice making perfect. And still
to this day, it’s something that I do. If I take
something on, I just do it over and over and
over and over again until I get to where I want
to be. And I have found that it has been the
best way for me.
Cheryl’s line of fruit jams, flavored with botanicals,
are named after her mother.
What originally made you and your
husband take the plunge and open
Is that how you came to appreciate the bakery? It’s been almost 20 years
the heritage of Southern baking and now. And why do you think it’s been so
culture? successful for so long?
Definitely. It was my coming of age every year. Well, we both were kind of doing other jobs
Like I said, I grew up in Los Angeles, so it was and not particularly things that we were as
a totally different world. Although growing up passionate about, as we were always kind
in the ‘60s, my parents belonged to a co-op of weekend bakers and cooks. And we just
and my mom kept a garden and we had fruit decided that we really wanted to do something
trees. So there was a little bit of crossover, but where we could hone our craft, and be really
just the experience of going to the South and dedicated to. And we have – we’ve dedicated
seeing how people kind of treated each other our whole lives and our careers to perfecting
with respect, and how if you baked something, what we do. We decided that we wanted to
you thought of your neighbor, and it was, I don’t create a place that would be about the food,
know, it was just a great experience for me. about the experience of coming to the bakery,
creating this atmosphere. And I think that’s why
So aside from your grandmother’s we’ve been so successful. My biggest concern
with COVID was how can we – when we were
lessons, you’re completely self-taught?
talking about reopening in a whole different
Yes. way – how could we continue to keep that sort
of community? And somehow we have. I think
because we had a leg up because we had built
Do you think that this was a better way
this community of people that really want us
to learn for you, as opposed to going to to continue to succeed. And I think that is why
culinary school, for example, because we have been successful. Also, we are still here
you were laser-focused on what you working every day and we still are enjoying it.

18 Pastry Arts
You mentioned COVID – how did it And then the second thing we did was we
affect your business? installed a walk-up window and started doing,
like everyone, advanced orders and take-out.
Yeah, so, it completely affected us. We went So that was one way that we pivoted. And
from having a dining room where we would then, again, we ended up closing, and we
see hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of started shipping nationwide and started the
people every day. Our staff was usually around jam business. And then now we’re open to
12 people. And so, with COVID, now there are the public two days a week. We have a retail
five of us. Griff and I are still primarily doing all shop that is going to go online, and we’re being
the baking with a couple of assistants. And we flexible to shift again because I believe we kind
totally pivoted our business, and we started a of have to.
new company in our dining room because we
have a large space. We bought the building,
so that was a blessing. But in our dining room What kind of jams are you making?
space, we started a jam company and we’re We have three flavors right now. The line is
doing small batch provisions, and we’re doing named after my mom, Janie Queen – Janie
an online store. I think basically it was about Q Provisions. Basically, our concept is to use
just being smart enough to know when it’s time local fruits and we heighten the flavor, we
to shift. And we did, we pivoted, and first thing accent it with a herb or a flower, which is what
we did was we closed; we thought that was the my grandmother always did. So we’re doing a
most responsible thing to do. And some of our strawberry chamomile, blueberry rose, and a
staff came back, but many of them haven’t, and peach lavender.
have moved on to other things outside of this
industry.
We decided that
we wanted to
create a place
that would
be about the food,
about the experience
of coming to the
bakery, creating
this atmosphere.
And I think that’s
why we’ve been so
successful.

Three Citrus Cake, flavored with lemon,

lime and orange.

Pastry Arts 19
 I new life, because that’s a slower pace. Being
open two days a week, I mean, it takes a lot to
get to that two days a week considering we’re
still doing it all, making everything from scratch,
making all of our doughs. But it’s still enjoyable.
I just want to make sure that it’s sustainable.

I’m sure you get asked about this a lot,

but I can’t resist – I heard you were a
dancer on the show Soul Train back in
the day.
[laughs] Well, I was a teenager when I danced
on Soul Train, but it was in my formative years,
and there’s footage that has surfaced now
showing me on there, and I was painfully shy, so
painfully shy that I can’t even believe that that
is the same person, but it was. My personality
really started to come out, being around people,
Benne Crackers, a Southern favorite. being on television, whatever. It really changed
my life in a lot of ways, it just really made me
have a more vibrant personality. I used to hide
Well, she was obviously way ahead of in the early days, but the first time I did the big
her time, because botanicals are really scramble board with Don Cornelius, I couldn’t
popular right now. hide anywhere – there I was. It’s pretty funny.

Exactly – botanicals are huge right now. But

What have been and continue to be
yeah, these are all the lessons that I learned,
and that’s really why I was so excited to be some of your most popular items at
able to honor all of these people, including my the bakery?
grandmother, who thought about making things I’d say the old-fashioned cupcakes, I believe
with rose and lavender. Well, she did because those are still top sellers. We do biscuits, and
those were the things that grew together and those are really popular. And our pies. Our menu
those were the things that grew in her garden used to be much more extensive — now that
at the same time, and it made sense. we’re open two days a week, we do two breads
instead of five breads. So now we’re doing our
You mentioned before that it’s greatest hits, we’ve really curated the menu
important to you to enjoy your work. where when folks come in, it’s literally like all
How do you make that happen? the best of the best. So, we’ll have baguettes
and then maybe we’ll make one other bread.
Well, I’m 60 now – I’m not moving as fast as I We’ll have lots of breakfast pastries. Everything
used to, but I’m still enjoying what I’m doing. that we make we sell out every day and we’re
And the jam business has really given Griff and making fresh the next day.

20 Pastry Arts
Now that we’re open two days a week,
we do two breads instead of five breads.
So now we’re doing our greatest hits,
we’ve really curated the menu where
when folks come in, it’s literally like all
the best of the best.

Cheryl’s Mini
Baked Alaska.

Pastry Arts 21
 So tell us about your new book – your
first solo one – which is coming out in
October.
I’m so proud of it. I just got the advanced
copy, and it’s super heavy, but it’s very
comprehensive. It has 13 chapters; I separated
it in a very Southern way. It’s called Cheryl
Day’s Treasury of Southern Baking. So, the first
My great-great- chapter is called hot breads, and those were
grandmother was born traditionally the breads that would come to the
table hot. And then also there are crackers. It’s
enslaved, and she was just really all about the Southern way of life that
I learned growing up visiting my grandmother.
a pastry cook as it turns And then it goes into slow breads, which are like
out, which I knew, but cinnamon buns and anything that takes time to
rise. And there are several cake chapters. There
it just kind of became are layer cakes, and cupcakes, and cakes and
things that you would take to a potluck.
super important to And it’s got custard pies all the way to jams
find this out – that and preserves, and basics like pastry cream.
So it includes anything that you would want
baking was in my DNA. to make if you’re interested in baking, and
Southern baking in particular. I wanted to make
sure that I included all of those recipes in the
book. And also, it tells my life story about how
I became a Southern baker from the fact that I
learned that baking was in my DNA. My great-
great-grandmother was born enslaved, and she
was a pastry cook as it turns out, which I knew,
but it just kind of became super important to
find this out – that baking was in my DNA. My
great-great-grandmother lived until she was
over a hundred years old, and she was very well-
known for her biscuits and all the same things,
basically, that I’m doing. My favorite thing was
my mom left me a journal, in epistolary form,
and letters. And in one of the letters she talks
about how her grandmother made these cakes,
decorated in delightfully pastel colors. I don’t
remember reading that, but my cupcakes are
always in these pastel tints. So, it’s just been
really interesting, and being able to tell my
story through her and a lot of other women
that I read about along the way.

22 Pastry Arts
I know that you’re on the board Yes – and then also in line with that, along with
of the James Beard Foundation’s two other pastry chefs – Lisa Donovan and Sarah
new initiative for Black and O’Brien – we started Southern Restaurants for
Racial Justice. And I do both of those things.
Indigenous Businesses. Tell us
I actually was a recipient of one of the James Beard
about this program and how it grants, not for Black and Indigenous Americans,
might help those in communities but one of the emergency relief grants. But what
who might not have access to I realized is that…a lot of people wouldn’t have
funding, for example, and also known to apply for a James Beard grant. And in
what it means to you to be a marginalized communities the fact is, it’s just more
Black business owner. difficult to have access to getting a loan for a variety
of reasons. You know, people may not have the best
credit or don’t have property or what have you.
So I just felt that it was really important, because
I believe that having diversity in neighborhoods is
so important, and I’m just really passionate about
giving out these grants, and it’s been a really great
experience from both ends.

Pastry Arts 23
 then people were happy to give us money. The
city gave us a big award for being innovative.
And we just thought it was interesting – we
went to an event and there were 600 people
there, and a lot of them were from the SBA,
local offices and whatnot, and the main person
who did not give us the loan, he came up to us
after the ceremony and he said, “Boy, did I get
that one wrong!”

Jam photos by Haylie Waring.

All other photos excerpted from Treasury of
Southern Baking by Cheryl Day (Artisan Books).
Copyright © 2021. Photographs by Angie Mosier.

For me, I know firsthand how difficult it

is, because when Griff and I first opened, we
didn’t have anyone give us money. And my
husband is White, I’m Black, and he was able
to walk into a bank and get money where I was
not. Plain and simple, it’s just a fact. But it was
also very difficult for us because of the fact that
the neighborhood that we chose to be in was
transitional. I mean, now people think we were
geniuses, but at one time it was an old Jewish
neighborhood, and then it took a turn, and then
it became a Black neighborhood. And we just
saw the potential of the neighborhood. People
say we’re visionaries now, but it was just that
we knew that it had been a bustling area. It was
where the first grocery store ever in Savannah
was, and it was in a neighborhood that was
convenient to a lot of different neighborhoods
in the Savannah area. And we were told that
this was not the right neighborhood, we didn’t
have the right experience, and we didn’t get
any funds. Griff was able to get some, and then
his family kind of got us started, also. But later
down the line, when we became successful,

24 Pastry Arts
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General

Our Heritage
Heirloom grains that have traversed bio-adversity and lasted
throughout antiquity to be lost and then found again

By Harmony Sage

26 Pastry Arts
 H
oliday traditions, a crisp chill in the air, the soft glow of festive
lights, the aroma of peppermint and chocolate, cinnamon
and baked pumpkin, hot oil, strawberry jam and powdered
sugar. The hustle and bustle of shoppers, the smiles of loved
ones, hugs, and clinking glasses. How we all come together in
our own way and rejoice in our culture, heritage and family, by blood or by
choice, is essential. It is an innate human quality to reach into our past to
celebrate the future, and so every year when the holidays roll around, I get
a nostalgic feeling. This feeling is not only reminiscent of times spent with
my parents and grandparents when I was a child, but also of a time before I
was born, a feeling engraved into the primers of DNA. It is the story of the
ancestral struggle to preserve culture and family in the face of adversity.

In turn I try to cultivate what has been preserved for

me, for my children and for my patrons, who come
to my shop to enrich their holiday tables. It is the
food we share, as well as an ornament or menorah
passed down from ancient ancestors, glistening from
years past, reflecting the stories and memories of
generations long ago.
There are many foods that can be experienced
through our senses to channel these memories and
delights. For me it is pies or tarts. A perfect crust for
me is flaky and buttery, with a toasted-maltiness
imparted by good quality grain. Yes, the grain you
use in a pie dough makes all the difference. Heritage
or ‘heirloom’ grain has been a part of this world’s
narrative throughout history. A single kernel holds
a story of farmers, millers, bakers and civilizations
working together to create real food that has
sustained us. It is now our mission to preserve this
relationship, and in doing so preserve these heritage
grains. Grains that have traversed bio-adversity and
lasted throughout antiquity to be lost and then found
again. An heirloom seed is defined as one whose
heritage is documented from passing the seed down
from generation to generation within a family, tribe
or community. Our heritage to be safeguarded and
celebrated for future generations to come.

Pastry Arts 27
 A perfect example of our enduring legacy is naturally sweet and needs less sugar than an
is found in the amber waves of Sonora grain. average pastry flour.
Sonora is a soft white heritage wheat varietal Just as we take the family traditions we
brought to the Southwest in the 16th century like from a certain relative or adapt another
by Spanish missionaries. It is one of the oldest custom from a close friend, Yecora Rojo is a
surviving wheat varieties in North America. hybrid wheat varietal that was selected from
The Sonora grain that I use is nothing like the other heritage grains. These grains are from
Landrace version. Landrace grains are ancient the Bluebird family of cultivars, Ciano, Sonora
pre-hybridized varieties of wheat, barley, oats and Klein Rendidor. Chosen for its light red
and rye. Our Sonora is grown by Tehachapi Grain color and superiority in baking and milling.
Project and milled in-house on our Meadows Yecora Rojo is a semi-hard red spring wheat
stone mill. It has a nutty, buttery flavor that goes and was introduced to California in the 1970s.
well in breads, pastries and pie crusts. Sonora It is known for its richness and robust depth
wheat was originally used to make tortillas in of flavor. The Yecora I use is grown and stone
Southern California, Arizona and Mexico. It has milled in California by Central Milling. This
a light golden colored bran and with its paper- grain is very thirsty and can be used in higher
thin husk, the grain is soft enough to be ground
hydration breads. I love using it in a classic pâte
into a flour by hand. Sonora is so silky and airy
brisée recipe. The beautiful red hue is warm
it is almost like a pastry flour, yet nutrient rich
and inviting in a savory quiche or pumpkin pie.
with the full flavor of a whole-grain flour. I
The toasty, malty flavors balance well with a
like to use Sonora in a pate sucrée recipe. The
huge helping of extra butter packed into the
sweet, buttery texture of this dough is very
recipe to give the crust a luscious and supple
special and will uplift a perfect custard filled
crumb. It helps to give this dough a longer rest
fruit tart or lemon meringue pie. One tip for
than usual, to really let the grain soak up any
working with Sonora is to not overwork the
liquid in the recipe.
dough to retain its delicate structure. Sonora
Abruzzi Rye is a heritage grain that was
developed in Georgia in the early 1900s
for distilling, and later became a favorite
in baking. This delicious grain has a nutty,
toasty maltiness with a slight spice. Its reliable
high performance and nutritional benefits
captured the hearts of the southern states of
America. We use the varietal grown by the
Tehachapi Grain Project. We mill our rye in
our Meadows stone mill. Rye is lower in
gluten than wheat, but it is NOT gluten
free. It is more nutritious and has a dark
rich color, which makes a dense and
flavorful product. The rich flavor of
rye pairs well with molasses or dark
brown sugar. The fragrant spice and
hint of sweetness will also balance
creamy onions and stinky cheese
pies. Some quick folds in this dough
will make the pie stand tall with a
myriad of flaky layers.

28 Pastry Arts
 Photo of Harmony Sage by Amanda Holzhauer,
Mirage and Light Photography

1. Cream the butter, confectioners’ sugar, salt,

and vanilla bean paste for about 5 minutes,
or until light and fluffy. Add the whole
eggs one at a time until incorporated. Mix
the flour and corn meal together and add
to the butter-egg mixture. Mix only until
incorporated, being careful not to over-mix.
2. Turn the dough out onto the table and
shape into a block. Wrap in plastic and let
the dough rest and chill in the refrigerator
for at least 1 hour.
Using heritage grain in my pie crusts and 3. Roll out and cut to the desired shape and
tart shells has not only enhanced the holiday size needed.
tables of my family and my patrons, but it has

Yecora Rojo
also strengthened my connection with those
who have come before me. Our ancestors who
have taken risks to ensure that these grains are
accessible today, monumenting our heritage
and sustaining us in this holiday season. Pâte Brisée

Harmony Sage is the Pastry Chef and • 500 g Yecora Rojo flour
co-owner of the Long Beach Bread, Beer • 5 g salt
and Spirits Lab in Long Beach, CA. • 454 g unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
• 150 g water, cold

Sonora 1. Mix the flour and salt together. Cut in the

butter until the butter forms shards. Add
the water until the dough starts to come
Pâte Sucrée together. It should be shaggy, not smooth.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured
• 375 g unsalted butter, cut into small cubes surface and shape into a block. Give the
• 100 g confectioners’ sugar, sifted dough two double folds, wrap in plastic and
refrigerate for 30 minutes.
• 5 g salt
2. Give the dough another two double
• 5 g vanilla bean paste folds and wrap in plastic. Let it chill in the
• 200 g whole eggs refrigerator for at least 1 hour.
• 500 g Sonora flour 3. Roll out and shape to the desired shape and
• 65 g yellow corn meal size needed.

Pastry Arts 29
 Abruzzi Rye 1. Mix the flour, salt, cinnamon, and brown
sugar together. Cut in the butter until it
forms pea-sized pieces. Add the water
until the flour comes together. Turn the
‘Blitz’ dough out onto the table and form into a
block. Wrap in plastic and let it rest in the
• 450 g Abruzzi rye flour refrigerator for at least 2 hours.
• 8 g salt 2. Roll out and shape to the desired shape and
• 5 g ground cinnamon size needed.
• 10 g brown sugar
• 454 g unsalted butter, cut into small cubes Photos by Matt Armendariz
• 180 g water, cold

30 Pastry Arts
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Business Bites

The Logic of
Logistics
In this edition of Business Bites, we asked dessert
professionals how they solved a product shipping problem,
and what their advice is for others who face a similar issue.

32 Pastry Arts
Shawn Smallwood
Pastry Chef-Owner, Custom
Goods LLC, Asheville, NC
@customgoodsllcnc
What product are you selling and what
is a potential problem of shipping this
product?
I ship macarons, cinnamon rolls, whole Bundt
cakes, coffee cakes, brittles, candies, a variety of
cookies, fudge, quick breads, brownies, stuffed
cookies, hot cocoa bombs, whoopie pies, and
basically anything, as long as it is safe to ship. I
have set things that I make on a regular basis,
but I also allow my customers to come to me
with their ideas or wants (hence my business
name, Custom Goods LLC).

Pastry Arts 33
 I had people wanting to pay me for my work.
So, I ordered a dozen macarons from a large
company. Then I dissected their packaging.
This method can be done with anything! Buy a
product from a large company and take notes.
Today we are so lucky that almost everything
can be found online with the click of a button.
I found exactly what I needed to make my tiny
operation happen, purchased the materials,
figured out the total cost of packaging, and
made sure to incorporate that cost back into
my product. It is important to figure out any
shipping materials’ costs to them charge back
to clients so there is not a financial loss.
Then I thought about the other items I
wanted to ship. The answers to these problems
are all around us. I see it every day at my local
grocery store. The biggest enemy of baked
goods can be oxygen and moisture. What could
I use to help prevent this besides making sure
everything was wrapped up nice and tight in
plastic? Silica gel packets! I see them in a ton
Oh boy! There are so many issues that of products. It was a no-brainer for me to ship
can happen. The biggest issues I think are cakes, cinnamon rolls, cookies, and anything
freshness of product, making sure it arrives to that could potentially go stale during shipping
its destination in one piece, shipping speed, the with silica gel packets. Just make sure the silica
weather, and figuring out exactly how you’re gel packets are food safe.
going to ship it. Testing out recipes is crucial. When it comes to packaging items, package
Package them how they are to be shipped, and them like antique fine china. Make sure to
try the product in a week. Shipping speeds pick out a strong, appropriately sized shipping
can vary greatly depending on which service box. The size of the box should be larger
is selected. See how the product holds up, than the product being shipped, in order to
and adjust accordingly. For example, I only use accommodate bubble wrap or packaging
brioche for my cinnamon rolls because of its materials. I like to do a shake test. If I shake a
high fat content. It holds up much better for product in the box and I can hear it move, then
shipping than a traditional sweet dough that it is not packed tight enough with bubble wrap.
is usually stale within a day or two. Also, make I even stuff my cake boxes that have items
sure what is being shipped is SAFE to ship. The in them with bubble wrap to make sure they
last thing anyone wants to do is cause harm. can’t move inside their container. Everything
Food safety is always first above anything when is individually wrapped or bagged so that the
it comes to shipping any baked good. bubble wrap won’t have direct contact with
The very first thing I started shipping out the product. Tape up boxes properly at every
were macarons, and I had no idea how I was seam. Do not skimp with the tape. Whichever
going to do it. What I did know is that I lost my shipping service is used, just think of those folks
corporate job due to Covid-19, and I had people playing soccer with a box and plan accordingly.
on Facebook who wanted to buy my macarons. Saving packaging material from personal online
I would be a fool to not do something when purchases to reuse is also very cost effective.

34 Pastry Arts
 Also realize what is being shipped, and Where do you get your packing
the time of year it is being shipped. I am not supplies?
going to ship a hot cocoa bomb midsummer,
or anything that could potentially turn into a The majority of my supplies are from Amazon.
hot mess before it arrives due to the weather. com or from my local Sam’s Club. They are off-
Yes, there are ways to ship potentially messy the-shelf items, but I customize them with my
products during the hot months. Products can business logo that I had made into stickers. I
be frozen, shipped with ice packs or dry ice, have found this to be more cost-effective than
and over-nighted for next day delivery. It really directly ordering custom packaging. I chose to
just depends on what a client is willing to pay do this because it’s convenient to shop online,
for the extra time and costs associated with and you can find almost exactly what you need
doing this. with a few clicks of a button. Sam’s club is what
I have where I live, and they carry items in bulk,
Side note: Selecting a shipping service can
like shipping tape, bubble wrap, and bubble
be an overwhelming process. I found that the
wrap-lined mailers.
most helpful tool has been using stamps.com. It
is easy to compare UPS, USPS, and FedEx all at
the same time. The website will even populate What was one of the challenges you
which service is cheaper. Just understand that faced in shipping and how did you
some will be faster than others. It really boils solve it? What shipping advice do you
down to what the client is willing to pay for have for other dessert entrepreneurs?
shipping. USPS also offers a service that is free
to pick up pre-labeled packages. It saves a lot Yikes! I had an order of 50 hot cocoa bombs
of time. Investing in a personal shipping label arrive to my client with about 75 percent of
printer and shipping scale is required to take them broken. There was a lot of trial and error.
advantage of this free service. However, long I found that individual plastic cupcake
lines can be avoided if a package that is already containers are best for holding those. That
labeled needs to be dropped off in person. was a big lesson learned. Mistakes happen.
Shipping items is a learning experience. There
is no need to get too worked up over it. The
important thing to do is make the wrong into
something right.
I have found most clients are very
understanding when a shipping issue happens.
I always apologize no matter whether it’s an
issue with the shipping service, or a mistake on
my part. Then I come up with a solution both
parties agree upon. I always offer to replace the
damaged items, or issue a refund for the amount
of items that were damaged. In this case of the
hot cocoa bombs, a refund was issued. Also use
any resources possible for the problems that
come up during shipping or with figuring it all
out! Ask your friends or an online community.
There are so many online communities
dedicated to shipping baked goods. There is
no reason to feel alone. Community is a huge
factor in success. Others have already made
the mistakes. Learn from them.

Pastry Arts 35
 Rebecca Bloom
Owner, Piedaho Bakery,
Hailey, ID
piedaho.com
What product are you selling and what
is a potential problem of shipping this
product?
We ship fully baked, flash-frozen pies. As with
anything perishable, the potential problem is a
pie completely defrosting, being flipped over, or
smushed.

Where do you get your packing supplies?

We source from multiple sources, everything from
plastic containers, vacuum seal bags, cool shields,
ice. It’s all trial and error in finding what works.

Chocolate
Morsels
naturally sweetened
with Allulose

DAIRY

Morsel Langs Chocolates, LLC

ingredients:
350 Pine Street, Williamsport, PA 17701
https://www.langschocolates.com/keystone-pantry/
Chocolate Liquor, Non-GMO Allulose, Cocoa Butter 570-323-6320 www.langschocolates.com
What was one of the challenges you
faced in shipping and how did you
solve it? What shipping advice do you
have for other dessert entrepreneurs?
We began our business shipping pies before
the pandemic, so we had resolved many issues
along the way. Initially we were not using cool
shields, the extra insulation, and adding them
helped keep pies frozen and chilled longer.
Other issues which we can’t solve are issues
with UPS. We have had pies delivered upside-
down, with photos from customers showing
the pie upside-down, with a clear marking on
the box saying ‘this end up’.
Try to find the best packaging for your
product. We had to change clam shells,
insulation, etc. Also, when ordering material,
order more than you need every time. We have
had supply issues and certain items we can’t
find where we live.

Pastry Arts 37
Geraldine Keogh
Co-Owner, Biens Chocolate
Centerpieces, Stirling, NJ
bienscc.com
What product are you selling and what
is a potential problem of shipping this
product?
We are shipping Biens Chocolate Centerpieces,
which are the world’s first e-commerce
customizable chocolate centerpieces. They’re
shipped in our unique patented packaging. We
worked for two years with an engineer to come
up with a way to ship our delicious biens (which
are cake truffles) in something more than just a
standard box.

Where do you get your packing

supplies?
We established a supply chain with a and quickly. With more people shopping online
manufacturer that was able to tool the every day (especially as we near the end of the
machines to our exact specifications. Our pandemic surge), securing competitive shipping
packaging is highly customized so our biens rates is a big factor for every manufacturer.
centerpieces can be shipped nationwide. We Using national platforms like Shopify and
chose this particular supplier for their ability BigCommerce allows smaller businesses to take
to deliver a food-grade, high-quality product advantage of very competitive shipping rates
at a reasonable cost and within our delivery and allow them to compete against the giants
expectations. in the industry such as Amazon and the big box
retailers. When we began making our biens,
we were restricted to our local geographical
What was one of the challenges you area because we could not ship them. Creating
faced in shipping and how did you custom packaging is not as daunting a process
solve it? What shipping advice do you as one would believe. There are plenty of
have for other dessert entrepreneurs? talented professionals who can help you to
devise a solution to your challenges, but it does
Challenges in shipping almost always take patience and a little investment in getting
include temperature control of the product – the prototype created. 3D printers have been a
specifically, getting our products to our end-use game changer in this space. If you can imagine
customers in a safe environment despite the and draw what you are thinking, you can test
incredible temperature variations around the it quickly by producing it via a 3D printer. We
country. We constantly evaluate our shipping were able to make miniscule changes in our
methods, and we’re always looking for new packaging and eventually perfect it by creating
and innovative ways to ship our products cold dozens of prototypes this way.

38 Pastry Arts
 If you design unique packaging, the first by being distinctive. Take care with how you
thing that you need to do is secure a patent on present your packaging; remember that the
it, even before you move it to manufacturing. journey for the end user begins with the box
Research a good patent attorney who can when it arrives, and make it possible for your
handle this process for you from beginning to logo to be printed on the packaging so that
end. Be aware that the patenting process is your brand becomes recognizable. Use tissue,
not something that you can do yourself, and stickers, and placement cards to make your
it’s vitally important that you get it right. Your package more of a gift experience, which allows
packaging patents instantly add considerable you to create excitement and expectation as
value to your company and may be a means to the customer begins to unwrap it. Beautiful
a passive income if you are able to license them packaging sets the tone for a great customer
to additional users. The online food market is experience so that the overall uniqueness,
huge, so don’t be afraid to get involved, but memorability, and quality of your product
make yourself and your company stand out speaks for itself.

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Hattie McDaniel
R&D Consultant,
Sahm’s Family of Restaurants,
Indianapolis, IN
shopsahms.com
What product are you selling and what
is a potential problem of shipping this
product?
We ship a coffee cake of the month. This is a
monthly subscription product, with a new flavor
of our famous coffee cake sent out each month.
A potential problem is the integrity of the cake
and making sure they get to the customer fresh
and intact.

40 Pastry Arts
Where do you get your packing supplies?
We purchase many of our packaging supplies
from Uline, but get custom boxes and thermal
containers from Buckeye Corrugated, Inc. We
chose this company because they have a local
Indianapolis division, and we can work with a
local sales rep to customize the size and design
of the boxes. For other supplies like shrink wrap,
gel ice packs, and heat seal tools, Uline has been
the cheapest.

What was one of the challenges you

faced in shipping and how did you solve
it? What shipping advice do you have for
other dessert entrepreneurs?
When testing our shipping method, the biggest
problem we had was the cake maintaining
integrity and shape during the shipping process.
To solve this issue, we made sure to deep freeze
the cakes and customize the box size so that the
cake fits snugly inside its thermal container with
a couple of gel ice packs that are flexible around
the shape of the cake. Another issue we had was
the inconsistency of shipping times, so in order
to make sure the product gets to its destination
quickly, we had to increase the price slightly to
balance the necessary cost of two-day shipping.
Some of the cakes come with a glaze or
topping that the customer can decorate the cake
with at home. To make this as pretty as possible,
we packed the icing in disposable piping bags
with a plastic star tip. This way, the customer
can have an interactive experience and decorate
the cake when they need it. Kids love this part
of the product, and the flavor of the icing always
enhances the cake of the month.
My biggest tip is TEST, TEST, TEST! Test the
shipping to as many states as possible and collect
feedback along the way. It’s best to budget a little
more upfront for testing than to have to refund for
a product you aren’t proud of.
Flavor Inspiration

Flavor
Inspiration
In our Flavor Inspiration column,
we connect with professionals who
showcase a unique creation, its flavor
profile and offer one technical tip.

42 Pastry Arts
 Flavor Profile
This dessert is composed of Fig Leaf Crème
Mousseline, Fresh Fig & Honey Compôte, and
Valrhona Orelys Chocolate velvet spray.

Technical Tip
Figuier I recommend infusing fig leaves into your liquid
ingredient to create a rich fig aroma. Never
infuse the fig leaves in boiling liquid, however –
By Eunjung Cho I recommend cooking via the sous vide method
at 140˚F (60˚C) for 2 hours. I also recommend
Pastry Chef, Honeybee Cakes using light brown sugar instead of white sugar
@honeybeecake in the pastry cream.

Pastry Arts 43
 Raya Dates Flavor Profile
The primary components of this dessert are

Gateaux dates and gula Melaka (Malaysian palm sugar).

Both come from the palm family, with the

de Voyages
former cultivated for its edible sweet fruit,
while the latter comes from the sap of flower
buds of the coconut palm.
By Otto Tay
World Pastry Champion, Technical Tip
Otto Patisserie Consultancy To ensure a perfect crystallization of the cocoa
butter (and avoid fat bloom), make sure that the
@otto__tay chocolate glaze is tempered, and the cake is at
room temperature, 64-75˚F (18-24˚C).

44 Pastry Arts
 Flavor Profile
This creation was born by choosing a specific
ingredient to be the protagonist, and from
there elaborating on it. In this case, basil is
the main ingredient, which I combine with the
citrus nuances provided by lime – it’s a very

Basil
refreshing combination. Finally, I added milky,
sweet notes from white chocolate and coconut.

By Albert Daví Technical Tip

Pastry Chef, Chocolate With this cake, I infused aromatic basil leaves
Academy Barcelona with a syrup using the vacuum technique
to soften the leaves and provide a point of
@albert_davi sweetness.

46 Pastry Arts
 Sakura
By Trent Vu
MasterChef Australia
Season 13
@riceguyy

Flavor Profile
This cherry blossom inspired dessert
combines the classic combination of
cherries and dark chocolate. The tart,
sour cherry sorbet cuts through the dense
richness of the chocolate mousse, while
texture is provided by the chocolate soil
and tempered chocolate.

Technical Tip
You can get away with using less gelatin to
set your mousse when you’re freezing it in
a mold that you can easily remove it from,
such as a ring or a silicone dome mold – a
mousse with less gelatin will be lighter and
more pleasurable to eat. Creating a three
dimensional chocolate tree is much easier
than it seems! Pipe lines of tempered
chocolate onto the surface on an ice bath,
starting with a thicker trunk then thinner
lines for the branches. Submerge the
chocolate under the ice water to set it,
then rotate the tree around to pipe more
branches in other directions.

Pastry Arts 47
 Chocolate
Orange
By Jeffrey Tan
Pastry Chef
and Consultant
@jeffrey__tan

Flavor Profile
The mousse is mainly a combination
of chocolate and orange, which is my
personal favorite. I made an orange gel
without gelatin to make the orange flavor
stronger.

Technical Tip
Choose Egyptian navel oranges to make
the oranges more flavorful. Using cocoa
butter spray instead of glaze can make
the combination of chocolate and orange
more assertive.

48 Pastry Arts
 Flavor Profile
The brown bonbon showcases the notes of
black tea and mild tobacco from the Elvesia
couverture which I paired with caramelized
pineapple for a festive finish. The draping

The Cage and

type features salted pistachios and delicious
notes of flower honey.

The Splash Technical Tip

Both bonbons feature organic couvertures
By Luis Amado from Felchlin. There’s no color other than
Chocolatier the natural tones of the chocolate, which I
believe add interest in terms of the look, and
@luisamado777 offer a better taste.

Pastry Arts 49
 Flavor Profile
Valrhona’s couverture ILLANKA 63% presents
a rich chocolate taste with a luscious texture
and subtle flavors of dark berries. This beautiful
single-origin chocolate from Peru pairs well

Illanka
with chocolate biscuit and raspberry confit then
finished with Valrhona Raspberry Inspiration.

Entremet Technical Tip

Build the entremet in a cake ring to achieve
By Susan distinct layers, placing the entremet in the
Rowell-Bundy freezer after each layer is added and allowing
each component to set. Once the entremet is
Pastry Chef assembled, freeze overnight. Remove the cake
ring and allow the entremet to partially defrost,
@baked.expectations then cut with a hot knife for clean lines.

50 Pastry Arts
Free-standing paper baking molds

Shop complete collection at

BakeDeco.com

Sales@BakeDeco.com l 6103-15th Ave Brooklyn, NY l 718-232-7044

General

Natural Food Colors

Sourcing Clean-Label,
Natural Ingredients to
Color Your Creations
By Eunice Escobedo

Editorial sponsored
by Chef Rubber
52 Pastry Arts
 F
ood colors play a huge role in how we choose what we
eat. Next to aroma, color is often the first imprint that
draws or repels our interest vis-à-vis food selection. Since
childhood, we quickly learn to conclude what a certain
color will denote in terms of flavor. For example, red may
indicate the flavor of cherry or strawberry. It is a lot easier
for the consumer to be influenced by color than by other factors.
Today, however, a new deciding factor has been becoming what will
be our new normal in the food industry: the awareness of clean label
and natural ingredients. More and more consumers are wary of eating
products they know have been enhanced with artificial or chemically
engineered food coloring, and these educated patrons are seeking new
ways of incorporating natural sources into their food.

For thousands of years, natural

colors have been used to enrich the
appearance of many things other than
just food. So why even play with the
idea of using artificial colors, when
we have natural colors available? While
going all-natural is a lofty goal, there are
some concerns about using natural colorings. One of
the primary reasons manufacturers have not made
the full switch is cost. Going a natural green means
paying more of your hard-earned green. Working with
natural colors that are derived from sources like fruits,
vegetables, and exotic natural origins add an extra
cost to their production, and that cost aggregates to
finished product. Shelf life is another deciding factor;
while these pigments are a great resource, prolonged
exposure to light will cause some natural colors to
fade. Resolving storage and packaging issues are key
to keeping those colors vibrant for as long as possible.
Whatever your considerations, they shouldn’t deter you
from trying more natural offerings. The availability of a
varied selection of high-quality natural colors
and an abundance of enhanced colors
allows consumers to select the preferred
medium for enhancing their creations.

Pastry Arts 53
 Food colors are
available in multiple forms
– from powder to liquid
to gel to paste – depending
on the dessert, confection or
beverage that is being created.
The two main categories in colors for
the food industry are water soluble and fat
dispersible (lakes and dyes). What does that
mean? A water-soluble colorant works best
when the water content in the recipe is higher
than the fat content. The best example would
be when making macaron batter – the most
common selection is a gel or water-based
powder color that is easily mixed with the
water content in the egg whites. Similarly, a fat
dispersible color added to a fat-based product
like chocolate will work significantly better
than adding a water-soluble colorant.
The experts at Chef Rubber have developed
and launched a full line of natural colorants. to construct individually preferred colors);
These products are derived from vegetables, and natural glimmer powders (they add shine
fruits, herbs and spices. Both color categories and radiance to desserts and provide limitless
are available in natural selections of fat and applications). However you choose to add
water-based products. Some of these color to your world, remember to experiment
color lines include natural cocoa and try different options. There is no
butter (mostly used in chocolate right or wrong when ushering in
applications); natural dry powders creativity, especially one that
(these achieve the highest is inspired by you and nature,
pigmentation and are employed working in harmony.

54 Pastry Arts
Trends

Evocao

An innovATive new whoLefRuiT

ChoCoLATe embRACes
susTAinAbiLiTy
By Meryle Evans
56 Pastry Arts
 Composed of only three ingredients, cocoa

“
solids, cocoa butter, and cacaofruit sugar,
Evocao promises consumers a “healthier
It reminds me indulgence.” For chefs, the new chocolate’s
zesty, aromatic profile provides the canvas for
of being on a a broad palette of intriguing flavor pairings. “It
cocoa plantation,” represents a new generation of people who are
curious and not easily satisfied,” notes Las Vegas
says Mexican Chocolate & Pastry School owner, Melissa
Coppel. “Looking delicious is not enough; there
chocolatier Alan has to be nutrition, a clean label, transparency,
Espinoza, describing and belong to an upcycling movement, and
that’s what WholeFruit chocolate is about.”
Evocao, Cacao Barry’s “It will bring you many possibilities in the
heralded WholeFruit kitchen,” adds acclaimed flavor consultant
Francois Chartier, who designed a colorful
chocolate couverture, just chart illustrating Evocao’s myriad aromatic
made available to dessert harmonies – from tropical fruits to citrus to
spirits like sake and beer. “This chocolate is like
artisans after two years pulp fiction,” he puns. “It’s supernatural in the
of co-development with sense that you’re eating mango, lychee, passion
fruit, mandarina...it’s a never ending story.”
30 stellar chefs. Fresh,
fruity, Evocao is Barry
Callebaut’s most recent
application of the brand’s
“CacaoFruit Experience,”
a range of innovative,
sustainable products
using the previously
discarded pulp, juice and
bark of the cocoa pod
as well as the bean – an
initiative we previewed
in the summer issue of
Pastry Arts Magazine.

Pastry Arts 57
 At the live website launch of Evocao in June, Moreira’s Cocoa Nuances paired Evocao
the coterie of Cacao Barry Ambassadors, mousse with an aromatic compote of cacao
Chocolate Academy instructors, and consultants pulp, mango puree and fresh mango cubes,
who have been collaborating on the development chamomile dried flowers, coriander seeds and
of WholeFruit chocolate shared their lemon balm leaves. Both mango and passion
observations and suggestions for a wide variety fruit, along with banana, were featured in
of pastries, bars, plated desserts, bonbons, and French chef Philippe Bertrand’s vegan dessert,
ice cream. For Coppel, Evocao evoked notes one of several plant-based concepts, along
of plums and raisins, while Kirsten Tibballs in with Chicago chefs Megan Bell’s blood orange
Australia discovered malt, fruit, vanilla, roasted sorbet and Dimitri Fayard’s hazelnut filled
flavors and a slight bitter aftertaste. San Diego- sablée. Rose and raspberry also ranked high as
based pastry chef Lori Sauer recalled: “Tangy flavor combinations: a raspberry, rose lychee
right off the bat. Like eating passion fruit. Then compote for Barcelona’s Enric Monzonis, and
it smooths out and my mind can’t decide what’s raspberry pâte de fruit circling a ring of seeds,
happening between these flavors: buttery, nuts and fruits in the “E Snack” made by Martin
chestnut, lemon, tangy red fruit, bitter pecan, Diez in Chicago. Pairing Evocao with local
coffee. Dry like 100 percent chocolate.” specialties was another option: xoconostle
Passion fruit, mango and other tropical fruits cactus starred in Alan Espinoza’s Aztec-themed
were popular pairings for many chefs: Barcelona- plated dessert, Mictlan; in Japan, Kohei Ogata’s
based Creative Director Ramon Morato chose yuzu cheesecake was topped with sake gelée;
guava, pink grapefruit and a splash of Angostura and Singapore’s Seungyun Lee whipped up an
Bitters for his tartlet. In Brussels, Francisco Evocao drink with taro and coconut.

58 Pastry Arts
 Playing with presentation – simple, taste-testing throughout the R&D phase of
sophisticated, fanciful – also preoccupied the Evocao. Thayer considered a bar or a popsicle,
chefs. Paring down, keeping things simple, was but settled on an adaptation of a childhood treat,
the goal for Francisco Migoya, Head Chef at the ice cream sandwich. He topped a cocoa
Modernist Cuisine in Seattle: “Sometimes we Joconde base with coconut sorbet to represent
pastry chefs and chocolatiers tend to do too the white cacao pulp. “I found that coconut and
much,” he remarked. “Sometimes you just need Evocao pair really well; coconut is a little more
a great product, and the less you manipulate it savory, and as they say, fruits that grow together
the better,” a vision he achieved with a minimal go together.” Then, he explained, “I wanted to
geometric impression of a cocoa pod. For bring in another texture; I found passion fruit a
Dimitri Fayard, a cacao tree leaf recalled the little overpowering, and considered pineapple,
origin of Evocao; Ramon Morato collaborated but ended up with apricot – a sweet, subtle
with designer Andreu Carulla on a set of jelly with apricot liqueur surrounded by the
bonbon molds; and Russ Thayer of Montreal more savory coconut.” The top layer, Evocao
created an ice cream “Podwich.” ice cream, glazed and sprayed, mimics the
“You give me carte blanche, and I’m going to exterior of the pod. Thayer’s recipes, and those
make ice cream,” declared Thayer, the Chocolate of the other Chocolate Academy chefs, along
Academy’s lead chef online, who has been with guidelines for working with Evocao, are
available on the Cacao Barry website.
Meanwhile, dessert artisans across the
country are coming up with their own Evocao
creations. “This is the future of our industry,”
reflected Romain Cornu, Corporate Pastry
Chef of the Hakkasan Group in Las Vegas.
“Clean label and plant based. It’s beneficial
for everyone, and has a different flavor profile
of any other chocolate on the market.” Cornu
selected a chocolate soufflé for his first Evocao
foray. “It’s one of my favorite desserts,” he
continued. “Simple ingredients, techniques,
and powerful flavors – the best way to taste a
new chocolate.”
Brielle Fratellone, Executive Pastry Chef at
the sprawling Fontainebleau Hotel in Miami
Beach, oversees 11 outlets and a retail store in a
capacious six-room pastry kitchen. She started
thinking about Evocao recipes this summer, at
first contemplating mango and coconut, “but I
found it a bit overpowering to pair with mango,”
she recalls, “so I changed up the flavor profile
to use blackberry and ginger. The bite from the
ginger and sweetness of the blackberries really
balanced the strong chocolate tartness coming
from Evocao” for ‘Evocao Blackberry Ginger
Cubes’ with yogurt citrus mousse, blackberry
ginger cremeaux, and chocolate brownie.

Pastry Arts 59
 a 70% chocolate bar; the Lindt shop on
Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue is promoting the
company’s own new Excellence Cacao Pur Bar
made with cocoa pulp powder. Swiss-Gahanian
startup Koa provides the powder for Lindt, and
for other cacao derivatives, including juice for
a couverture from Swiss Chocolate maker,
Felchlin.
In Nashville, Oded Brenner, the exuberant
co-founder of Max Brenner’s chocolates, has
pivoted from marketing indulgent chocolate
fantasies to spreading the gospel of the wellness
benefits of cacao. At his shop/café Blue Stripes,
Brenner is selling cacao water, dried cacao fruit,
While chefs are adding Evocao to their cocoa bean powder, and cacao shell flour. In
chocolate inventory, other cacao pod products this era of environmental awareness, creating
are also gaining attention. A Barry Callebaut products that use the entire cacao fruit is
affiliate, Cabosse Naturals, offers delicately providing a bonus to farmers who receive extra
sweet pulp, fruity juice, and cascara, a flour income, to chefs who have a new chocolate to
made from the peel, none of which have a experience, and to all who applaud the effort
chocolate taste. Other companies are also to plan for a sustainable future.
catching the wave of consumer enthusiasm
for sustainability and waste reduction with
a variety of wholefruit products. In Europe,
Nestlé has introduced pulp-sweetened Incoa,

60 Pastry Arts
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Profile

Lincoln
Carson By Robert Wemischner

62 Pastry Arts
 A
n award-winning pastry chef
who spent eight years running
the pastry program of the
Mina Group, Lincoln Carson
has gradually reset his career trajectory over
the years, becoming a chef, restaurateur
and inspirational leader. His newest venture,
Mes Amis, is a brasserie style restaurant set
to open this fall in Los Angeles.

Neither a Young Turk nor an éminence grise,

pastry chef Lincoln Carson combines the energy
of the former with the wisdom of the latter in
one formidable package. A more than 30-year
career heading pastry programs for Michael
Mina, working in NYC’s starry places including
Le Bernardin and La Côte Basque and opening
Bon Temps (sadly a casualty of the pandemic), a
stylish all-day café in LA’s downtown, Carson is
modest: “It’s astonishing that after all of these
years there is a realization about how much you guest educator and consulting pastry chef with
don’t know. Even when you feel you’re doing Valrhona Chocolate, offering classes at their
everything right, sometimes it’s not enough. Brooklyn (NY) facility in his “spare time.”
Nobody likes to fail particularly in a first solo With the arrival of the pandemic, Carson has
operation. But the lesson here is: Do not be begun to ask himself why it is so challenging to
afraid of not knowing something.” Leading a attract committed staff. “The staff shortage is
team, he conveys the importance of leaning a very real issue. There is an incredible lack of
on people who do know something. “Team labor despite decent wages to start. Putting the
building is about encouraging everyone to call out for Mes Amis, my new restaurant, has
contribute. I have embraced that philosophy in not brought a lot of response. Why is this so?
each of the enterprises that I have led or been People working in the field have had a year-plus
a part of.” Not one to shy away from having a off, away from their jobs. They are considering
number of balls in the air at once, Carson is their lives. There is a true need to rebalance
also involved as a partner in two other newly a broken system – in terms of compensation
opened ventures, Coast Range & Vaquero Bar along with expectations of what people are
in Solvang (CA) and Mérite Bakeshop, a to-go willing to do. It comes down to analyzing what
only pastry concept in Boise (ID). He is also a drives young and not-so-young people.”

Pastry Arts 63
 From his long-range perspective as a veteran the care, the love and effort that went into
in the field, he remains sanguine but realistic what appears on their plates. We know that
when he says, “You don’t get immediate customer expectations are getting higher,
gratification out of this, in terms of a career. which is a driver to do more and do better. If
If you are looking for a job that blossoms into you are doing it correctly, then the ever more
a career within a couple of years, this isn’t the discerning public reacts positively and that is
business for you. Instead, it is a field for people appreciated by the staff.”
who have a desire to push, to become better,
and enjoy the prospect of lifelong learning.”
When asked what will drive the aesthetic,
the feel, and the menu at Mes Amis, Carson
confidently replies, “We want to open the
doors for everyone; we’re not pulling out our
tweezers or overly dramatizing the food here.”
It will be foundationally a French brasserie
with a California sensibility, continuing his
commitment to using locally grown ingredients
as the inspiration for the menu. “We fully
embrace the idea of hospitality. It will be a
place you want to frequent. Whether dining
at the bar or at one of the 160 seats in the
space, our customers hopefully will appreciate

64 Pastry Arts
 With the R&D done and having lead the
staff to where they are comfortable working
in the new space, Carson is ready to hand
over the reins of the day-to-day operations
to a seasoned highly competent staff, five of
whom stem from the Bon Temps days. They are
excited to be part of the team again, looking
to excel and perhaps move on to the next
opportunity, which is always a pleasure for a
chef who has seen them grow. The key to these
team members’ success, according to Carson:
“The work ethic has to be there. If I’m the
hardest working person in the building, that
can be a detriment, but I don’t ask anyone to
do anything that I wouldn’t do. I like to think
that I lead by example.”
Dishes, both on the savory and the sweet
sides, will benefit from the chef’s pastry
prowess. In keeping with the brasserie vibe,
there will be some pâté en croute as well as a
good old fashioned pastry cart with three or
four items on it, plus a few sweet dishes that
will emerge from the kitchen plated â la minute.
The chef asserts modestly: “I’ve been given
a lot of opportunity allowing me to open Mes
Amis, and I am not afraid to go out on a limb
and make it right.” Somehow there is no reason
to doubt him when the proof of the pudding
will certainly be in the eating.

Robert Wemischner is a longtime

professional baking instructor at Los Angeles
Trade Technical College and the author of four
books, including The Dessert Architect.

Pastry Arts 65
New & Notable

Pains Cuisinés
Bridor, a global company dedicated to sharing Purple carrots, celery root, and sesame seeds
the bakery cultures of the world, has expanded (inspired by Asian and Scandinavian flavors).
its Specialty Food portfolio with the launch of “Since the day I partnered with Bridor to
an exciting new bread line. Created in bring the idea of this unique Boulangerie
partnership with Chef Sébastien Canonne, Cuisinée concept to life, we put our heart
co-founder of the French Pastry School in and soul into crafting this first innovative
Chicago and a Meilleur Ouvrier de France and inspiring bread product line, the Pains
(M.O.F.), the Boulangerie Cuisinée concept Cuisinés,” said Chef Sébastien Canonne, M.O.F.
combines the three arts of gastronomy and “Driven by our common passion to give a new
nourishing ingredients in five Pains Cuisinés. meaning, purpose and use to breads and all
With this product line, Bridor targets a growing its applications, it took us years of hard work
health consciousness and desire for new and dedication to create these bold flavors,
tastes, textures, and flavor combinations. Each thin crust, and soft crumb balanced recipes –
of the five varieties of Pains Cuisinés is inspired each one inspired by a different ethnic cuisine,
by different global cuisines with recipes always following the same aim to delight all
that are vegan and clean, featuring simple five senses for the creation of truly memorable
ingredients and no artificial colors, additives or dining moments with every bite. We are beyond
preservatives. The three main signature flavors exited to now being able to offer these breads
of each recipe clearly define the unique taste, and hope you will share our enthusiasm as soon
texture, and smell of the breads, including: as you will be able to break, smell and taste our
Spinach, roasted garlic, and turmeric breads Pains Cuisinés.” The Pains Cuisinés are available
(inspired by European and Indian flavors); Red for distribution by all Bridor partners. They are
beets, oat groats, and onion breads (inspired available nationwide in the U.S. Please contact
by Nordic European flavors); Sweet potatoes, Julien Rondeau, Sales Director Specialty Food
curry, and flax seeds breads (inspired by Indian (julien.rondeau@bridor.com, +1 (914) 954-
flavors); Olives, hazelnuts, and yuzu breads 9099) to be connected with the best suited
(inspired by Mediterranean and Asian flavors); distributor.

66 Pastry Arts
 Chef Equation
Shortly after launching her first master * Reducing repetitive tasks that eat through
course in cake decorating, it was obvious payroll hours that could be better spent
to cake artist Natalie Madison that there on higher level tasks.
was a broader need for an app that
* Accurately calculating costs and
handled complex bakery calculations
generating suggested retail pricing based
and automatically compiled baking and
on profit margin goals.
production lists, saving bakery owners
hours of time that could be better spent * Reducing wasted ingredients and wasted
growing their businesses. Chef Equation™ is labor through precise calculations based
a multifunctional app designed to help food on actual orders on hand.
entrepreneurs understand their costs, plan
their profit, manage their workflows, plan * Scaled Batter Batch Builder to pull and
and scale production and produce instant combine same recipes from all orders
quote sheets for their customers. Some across a specified time frame.
of the ways in which Chef Equation helps * Shopping and Inventory List for better
food businesses streamline their processes inventory management and purchasing
include: control.
* Reducing the risk of manual calculation * Instant Order/Quote Sheet reflecting
errors through computerized formulas, complete costs with the ability to
digital recipe cards, and digital orders. generate suggested retail prices.
To learn more about Chef Equation, visit
www.chefequation.com.

Pastry Arts 67
 Even Better For You
The Barry Callebaut Group recently announced contributors to invest in sustainable cocoa. It
that its North American ‘Better For You’ relies on expert partners like Barry Callebaut
portfolio is now supporting sustainably sourced to implement the sustainability activities.
cocoa and vanilla. The portfolio includes sugar Additionally, the ‘Better For You’ products will
solutions (sugar-free, reduced sugar, no sugar be supporting sustainable vanilla production
added), high-protein, dairy-free, and organic through a partnership with vanilla supplier
solutions. All ‘Better For You’ products will be Prova to implement the Sustainable Vanilla
moving to COCOA HORIZONS and verified Charter. “This is an important step towards our
through the Cocoa Horizons Foundation. goal of being completely sustainable by 2025,”
Sustainable COCOA HORIZONS cocoa and said Laura Bergan, Director Barry Callebaut
chocolate products are sold by Barry Callebaut Brand. “Barry Callebaut embraces its role as an
with a premium which is used to help improve industry leader by leading the sustainable cocoa
the livelihoods of cocoa farmers and their and chocolate movement. We cannot achieve
communities. These premiums fund cocoa our ambitious goal by tomorrow and we cannot
sustainability activities such as farmer coaching achieve it alone. Moving our ‘Better For You’
and support, cocoa and non-cocoa seedling portfolio to fully sustainably cocoa and vanilla
distribution, and community development in is an exciting step on our journey.” For more
a transparent and externally verified process. information, visit: https://www.barry-callebaut.
The Cocoa Horizons Foundation serves as a com/en-US/manufacturers/news-events/
platform for chocolate companies and other sustainably-sourced-better-for-you-portfolio

68 Pastry Arts
Equipped to Face
Industry Challenges
ITW Food Equipment Group companies
– Hobart, Vulcan, Traulsen and Centerline
– have partnered to introduce a six-part
video series called “EQUIPPED”, focused
on helping empower restaurant owners and
operators. Working with StarChefs, this
video series provides perspectives and tips
from accomplished restaurant owners to help
industry peers overcome some of the most
common operational challenges. Through this top in this ever-changing marketplace. Topics
free video series, subscribers will hear from include Securing Capital; Controlling Costs;
restaurateurs throughout the United States, Staffing and Training; Food Safety; Maximizing
providing insights to help tackle common Space; and Serviceability and Support. To
industry challenges from the perspective of access these videos, visit https://equipped.
those who have been there and come out on itwfoodequipment.com/

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www.pregelamerica.com
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 Baking with Dorie
Baking author Dorie Greenspan has a new book
out, a collection of recipes that celebrates with
the sweet, the savory and the simple. Baking With
Dorie: Sweet, Salty & Simple (Mariner Books, 2021)
might be her most accessible book yet, featuring
recipes with ingredients that are available at the
corner grocery store. The simplicity of the recipes,
however, belies their sophistication. You’ll find
unexpected delights such as foot-long cheese
sticks made with puff pastry dough, gouda and
cumin; an apple pie with browned butter; and a
fast s’mores ice cream cake with chocolate sauce,
salty peanuts and toasted marshmallows. Chapters
include Breakfast Stuff, Cakes, Cookies, Pies &
Tarts and Salty Bakes. So whether you’re a baking
neophyte or a seasoned pastry pro, you’ll find lots
here to inspire you. Available at amazon.com.

Mooncakes and
Milk Bread
Architect-turned-food-blogger Christina Cho (eatchofood.
com) has just released her first book, a culinary tour of
the best of Chinese bakeries. Mooncakes and Milk Bread:
Sweet and Savory Recipes Inspired by Chinese Bakeries
(Harper Horizon, 2021) introduces readers to Chinese
bakery classics such as pineapple buns, savory and
sweet baked buns, cookies and Swiss rolls, while offering
uncomplicated interpretations for the modern baker.
Cho also entertains with stories about growing up in her
family’s Chinese restaurant, revealing a window into a
vibrant part of Chinese-American culture. Novices as well
as pastry pros will appreciate Cho’s advice on how to avoid
collapsed steamed buns, how to make the most workable
dumpling dough, and how to pleat dumplings just like an
Asian grandma. Available from amazon.com.

70 Pastry Arts
 Modernist
Pizza
Created by the team that published
the critically acclaimed Modernist
Cuisine: The Art and Science of
Cooking and Modernist Bread, the
newly released Modernist Pizza (The
Cooking Lab, 2021; $425) by Nathan
Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya is
the definitive – and certainly the most
comprehensive — guide to the world’s
most popular food. In three hardcover volumes
plus a spiral-bound kitchen manual, the set
contains over 1,000 traditional and avant garde
recipes to make pizza styles from around the
globe, including al taglio, Argentinean, tavern,
Brazilian thin-crust, deep-dish, Detroit-style,
Sicilian, Neapolitan, New York, New Haven,
Old Forge, pizza fritta, and pizza gourmet.
The recipes were developed with both
professional and home cooks in mind, using
both professional and home ovens. Authors
Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya share
practical tips and innovative techniques, which
are the outcome of hundreds of experiments
to test and then break all the rules of pizza.
Spanning 1,708 pages with beautiful photos
and instructive step shots throughout,
Modernist Pizza is much more than a cookbook:
it’s an indispensable resource for anyone who
not only loves pizza but is also interested in the
science, stories, cultures, and history behind it.

Pastry Arts 71
Sourdough
M a n ia
For many bakers, sourdough has been the
obsession of choice during the pandemic, and
as a result, there are two new books that have
just been released on the topic. Sourdough
Culture: A History of Bread Making from Ancient
to Modern Bakers (Agate Surrey, 2021) by Eric
Pallant explores the history and science of
sourdough bread baking from its discovery
thousands of years ago to the present. Pallant
explains how sourdough served as sustenance
for significant figures such as Plato, Louis
Pasteur, Marie Antionette (when she wasn’t
eating cake) and Martin Luther, as well as more
ordinary folk, such as ancient bakers, medieval
housewives, Gold Rush miners and many others.
Each chapter is accompanied by a selection of
the author’s favorite recipes, highlighting an
array of approaches and traditions. Whether
you are a skilled professional or novice baker, if
you love sourdough bread, Sourdough Culture is
an interesting and informative read.
If you’re focus is on making sourdough, and
without a lot of fuss, then Vanessa Kimbell’s
10-Minute Sourdough (Kyle Books, 2021) will
be of interest. This foolproof guide shows the
reader how to make artisanal sourdough with
just 10 minutes of hands-on work. It is perfect
for those with busy lives who have neither
the time nor the patience to knead, stretch,
fold and shape. From Olive, Feta & Rosemary
Focaccia to Roasted Barley Malt Bagels, Carrot
& Carraway Loaf and Caramel, Walnut &
Banana Bread, none of the fuss-free, no-knead
recipes requires more than 10 minutes’ prep
in total (not including time in the oven). Both
books are now available from amazon.com.

72 Pastry Arts
Getting Creative with Cocoa
Olam Food Ingredients (OFI) recently launched each powder is designed to pair perfectly. The
its premium deZaan cocoa powders for range also makes innovative natural powders
chefs, bakers and foodservice professionals available to US-based professionals for the
in the US. Known for its 110 years of Dutch first time. Most cocoa powders on the market
cocoa-making expertise and commitment are dutched, meaning they have gone through
to sustainability, deZaan is on a mission to a process of alkalization to mellow the acidity
encourage professionals to explore cocoa in and develop the flavor. deZaan has introduced
new and creative ways. The collection, which two natural powders, True Gold, with its flavor
includes six high-quality cocoa powders in 1-kg notes of flowers and citrus, and a light natural
and 5-kg bags, has been crafted around four key color, and True Dark with its nutty fruitiness,
elements that dramatically impact the outcome and a dark color more associated with
of a recipe: flavor, color, fat content, and level dutched powders. By offering a full spectrum
of alkalization. For example, flavors range from of cocoa colors, flavors and fat contents, the
light and fruity citrus to velvety chocolate and new deZaan range encourages pastry chefs
caramel notes, while the striking color palette and bakers to explore the potential of cocoa
includes everything from the vibrant hues powder to complement their creations. For
of Crimson Red and Rich Terracotta to the more information on deZaan for Professionals’
intense shade of Carbon Black. Whether it’s distributors, contact dezaan@olamnet.com
for confectionery, bakery, pastry or ice cream, www.dezaan.com.

Pastry Arts 73
 Pastry Stars
Congratulations to pastry chefs Thessa Diadem and Paola Velez for being named
two of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs 2021. Diadem is the pastry chef at All Day Baby
restaurant and bakery in Los Angeles, where she is known for her creamy ube pie
topped with chamomile whipped cream, a nod to her Filipina heritage. Velez, formerly
the pastry chef at Compass Rose and Maydan in Washington D.C., was furloughed
during the pandemic, so she channeled her energy by opening a doughnut pop-up
called Doña Dona to help raise funds for undocumented restaurant workers. She also
co-founded Bakers Against Racism, organizing a global bake sale which has drawn
24,000 participants from over 15 countries to support hundreds of local charities.

Pies
Are Awesome
World-renowned pie artist Jessica Leigh Clark-
Bojin shares her never-before-seen pie art
techniques, recipes, and 28 pie art designs
centered around holidays and life occasions. The
ample step-by-step photos take you through
Jessica’s easy-to-follow, groundbreaking pie art
techniques, while encouraging experimentation
and creative discovery. From decorative
patterns to more elaborate themes, the pie art
designs in this book range from easy to difficult.
Pies Are Awesome also includes tricks for
working with your own tried-and-true dough
recipes and store-bought dough; modifications
to personalize projects; and online resources for
printable templates, pie communities, friendly
challenges, and more. Available at amazon.com.

74 Pastry Arts
 CHILLED &
FROZEN PURÉES

Ready-to-use fruits for pastry,

beverage, cuisine

100% fruit or 90% fruit

and 10% pure cane sugar

More and more delicious flavors,

faithfull to the best of fresh fruits

ADVOCATING DELICIOUS, HEALTHY AND RESPONSIBLE FRUIT

is the mission we have set ourselves to inspire our employees, fruit producers, customers and partners, resonating with the aspiration to eat
better and preserve nature. Ponthier’s mission relies on strong, uncompromising commitments based on our history and new goals:

TASTE AGROECOLOGY GASTRONOMY RESPONSIBILITY

Revealing the Developing an ethical Supporting the Instilling a demanding
original taste fruit production sector gastronomic and shared approach
community to CSR

COMMITMENT #1 Original taste

It is first and foremost about bringing the culture of taste to daily life, the original taste of a fruit that nature gives us if we respect it. It’s about sourcing
exceptional, rare and exclusive fruit, harvested when ripe and processed with care as close as possible to the orchards, as quickly as possible.

COMMITMENT #2 Creation of the PURE TRACE label

kg po TEUR / PROD
0,01mg/ ur plus de 61 R-C
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PURE : means guaranteeing healthy, pesticide residue free TRACE : means guaranteeing traceability so that gastronomy
products with the PURE label, thanks to responsible and committed professionals can enhance the value of their offer and meet consumer
growing methods and analyses on all fruit batches approved by expectations on product origin. Ponthier was a pioneer in listing
Ponthier experts. From 2021, 29 flavors are labelled PURE, pesticide stringent traceability (country, harvest area and variety) and now
© Photo Mathide de l’Ecotais

residue free (limit of quantification 0.01mg/kg for more than 610 Ponthier is going much further with the creation of the TRACE label,
molecules analysed) whatever their packaging format. which lists the producer-harvester and the harvest location. From 2021,
24 flavors are labelled TRACE regardless of their packaging format.

ZA des Vieux Chênes - BP 4 - 19130 Objat – France - www.ponthier.net / info@ponthier.net

Chocolate Talk

Fruit and Chocolate

Innovating
While Honoring
the Timelessness
Pairing various ingredients with chocolate
opens up a world of exponential flavor.

By Donald Wressell,
Executive Pastry Chef, Guittard Chocolate Company

Editorial sponsored by
Guittard Chocolate Company
76 Pastry Arts
 W
hether you are working with a complex
blend or a pointed single origin, you can
design a flavor journey unique to your
style and your customers’ tastes. Finding
the right way to deliver those added flavors elevates your
creation. Perhaps infusing an Earl Grey tea into a cream
is the right choice, or picking fresh kumquats from your
garden which are then zested straight onto the plate as
a finishing zing; you get to design how those flavors can
enhance and complement the chocolate in your desserts.

Yet whatever the chosen medium to create harmony — a common thread that wouldn’t
that exponential or innovative experience, the otherwise exist. It’s simply a different approach
timeless pairing of fruit and chocolate seems with the same end goal, which is to deliver
always to be just that – timeless. Having access that premium tasting experience in every bite.
to a diverse array of flavors to heighten your A verrine can deliver a completely different
chosen chocolates is imperative. Fresh fruit tasting experience, even with all the same
is one approach, though sometimes plucking components but just with different purée.
a kumquat from a tree isn’t possible. As an Layering each piece within the verrine offers a
alternative, purées provide a canvas of flavors, new way to experience each flavor – they hold
but can also take on a variety of forms in a wide their own as a single bite, while delivering yet
range of finished desserts, confections and again a harmonized flavor. Similarly, with ice
baked goods. cream, one has the opportunity to infuse flavor
Integrating purees has the capacity to not in the same layered way, however, the added
only impact flavor, but also texture in exciting element of temperature creates something
and unassuming ways. Layering textures new. Temperature almost always creates
complements the multiple expressions of both a different expression of flavor; exploring
chocolate and purees, either solo or harmonized contrasting temperatures with selected purée
in concert with one another. One may choose to applications as well as chosen chocolate ones
select a fruit flavor that complements the chosen can create a refreshing yet rich experience.
chocolates and integrate that flavor into all In Guittard’s latest collaboration, we’ve
components of the finished dessert. Alternatively, partnered with our like-minded industry
deconstructing each element of a dessert allows friend, Les vergers Boiron, to develop a series
a different yet complementary experience to of recipes. Two companies, two products,
take hold – leaning into the adage that the whole and three pastry chefs worked together to
is greater than the sum of the parts. create nine exciting recipes that celebrate the
Take, for instance, a confectionery timelessness and ability for innovation of not
application: layering in a trio of textures of only chocolate and fruit, but also craft and
a single flavored purée can create a sense of sustainability.

Pastry Arts 77
 Chocolate Cassis Bouchée
By Josh Johnson,
Pastry Chef, Guittard Chocolate

The three layers of this bouchée come to life

through its unique combination of ingredients. Cassis Pâte de Fruit
The warm chocolate and spice notes of
Guittard’s 64% L’ Etoile du Nord, and the subtle • 220 g granulated sugar, divided
caramel notes of the 38% Cacao Soleil d’Or • 7 g yellow pectin
Milk Chocolate harmonize with the bold flavor
• 85 g glucose powder
of the Boiron Cassis (blackcurrant) Purée,
giving this triple-layer confection a bright and • 250 g Boiron Cassis Purée
bold finish. • 62 g apple juice
• 57 g glucose syrup
Yield: forty-five 1.6ʺ (41 mm) confections • 6 g citric acid solution, 1:1

78 Pastry Arts
1. Combine 30 g of the granulated sugar with
the pectin, mixing very well. Set aside. Cassis Ganache
2. Combine the remaining 190 g granulated
sugar with the glucose powder and set aside. • 77 g Boiron Cassis Purée
3. Combine the Boiron Cassis Purée with the • 1 g citric acid powder
apple juice. Warm the mixture, sprinkle in • 45 g heavy cream
pectin mixture and whisk well. Bring the • 10 g granulated sugar
mixture to a boil, add sugar-glucose mixture
• 14 g powdered glucose
and the glucose syrup, whisk, and return to
a boil. Cook to 225˚F (107°C), then whisk in • 
93 g 64% Cacao L’Ètoile du Nord
citric acid solution. • 
24 g 38% Cacao Soleil d’Or Milk Chocolate
4. Cast the mixture into 1/8” thick frame and • 
10 g unsalted butter, room temperature
allow to cool. When cool, cut circles to fit
bonbon cavities. 1. Combine the Boiron Cassis Purée, the
citric acid powder, heavy cream, sugar
Cassis Marshmallow and powdered glucose. Heat to a simmer.
Pour over the chocolate; allow to rest for 2
minutes. Stir to emulsify.
• 7 g gelatin sheets 2. At 100˚F (38°C), add the room temperature
• 28 g water butter and emulsify well with an immersion
• 7 g lemon juice blender. At 90˚F (32°C), cast into the
• 70 g trimoline, divided marshmallow filled shell, leaving room for a
final cap.
• 57 g cassis purée
• 13.5 g apple juice
• 100 g granulated sugar
• 1.75 g citric acid solution, 1:1

1. Bloom the gelatin with the water and lemon

juice.
2. Once the gelatin is bloomed, place it in a
5-qt mixing bowl with 35 g of the trimoline.
Set aside.
3. Combine the cassis purée, apple juice, sugar,
citric acid solution and the remaining 35 g
trimoline and cook to 230˚F (110˚C). Add to
the gelatin mixture in the mixing bowl and,
using the whisk attachment, whip on high
speed. When volume is achieved, switch
to medium speed until mixture reaches
86˚F (30°C). Remove from mixer and pipe
into precast chocolate shells, filling them
1/3 full. Press disc of pâte de fruit into the
marshmallow layer.

Pastry Arts 79
 38% Soleil d’Or Earl
Grey Ice Cream and
Bergamot Sorbet Pop
By Donald Wressell,
Executive Pastry Chef, Guittard Chocolate

This ice cream pairs subtle caramel and fresh

dairy notes of Guittard’s 38% Cacao Soleil d’Or Bergamot Sorbet
Milk Chocolate together with an infusion of
rich, bold Earl Grey tea. Those two flavors are • 3.75 g stabilizer
further complemented by bergamot sorbet, • 187 g granulated sugar, divided
creating a fragrant and refreshing finish.
• 487 g water
• 44 g glucose powder
Yield: about 20-22 pops
• 5 g invert sugar
• 250 g Boiron Bergamot Purée

80 Pastry Arts
1. Mix stabilizer with about 25% of the sugar. 1. Heat the chocolate and cocoa butter to
2. In a saucepan, heat the water, remaining 120˚F (48˚C). Cool to 97˚F (36˚C).
sugar, glucose powder and invert sugar
to 104˚F (40˚C). Rain in stabilizer mix.
Refrigerate for 4-12 hours.
Assembly
3. Using immersion blender, blend base with
puree. Process in batch freezer. 1. Mold sorbet in a Flexipan small hemisphere
mold. Blast freeze.
2. Unmold and pipe Milk Chocolate Ice Cream
38% Soleil d’Or Earl into pop mold. Press sorbet randomly into
Grey Ice Cream mold. Strike clean with a palette knife. Blast
freeze.
• 4 g stabilizer 3. Unmold and dip in Milk Chocolate Dip at
-10˚F (-23˚C). Garnish as desired.
• 50 g granulated sugar, divided
• 600 g water
• 12 g Earl Grey tea leaves
• 33 g non-fat milk powder
• 10 g whey protein 80%
• 20 g egg yolks
• 98 g invert sugar
• 
185 g Guittard 38% Cacao Soleil d’Or Milk
Chocolate

1. Mix stabilizer with 25% of the sugar.

2. In saucepan, heat water to the boil, add the
tea leaves, cover and infuse for 15 minutes.
Strain and adjust with water to 600 g.
3. Bring tea infusion, remaining granulated
sugar, milk powder, whey protein, egg yolks
and invert sugar to 104˚F (40˚C). Rain in
stabilizer. At 140˚F (60˚C), add chocolate
and cook to 185˚F (85˚C). Cool rapidly and
refrigerate for 4-12 hours.
4. Mix with immersion blender and process in
batch freezer.

Milk Chocolate Dip

• 
500 g Guittard 38% Soleil d’Or Milk
Chocolate
• 
500 g cocoa butter

Pastry Arts 81
 Raspberry,
White
Chocolate
& Vanilla
Verrine
By Michael Laiskonis

Served as an elegant plated dessert,

or scaled-down to a pre-dessert, this Raspberry Gelée
verrine shows off multiple expressions
of Boiron’s Raspberry Purée. Guittard’s • 225 g Boiron Raspberry Purée
Crème Française 31% White Chocolate • 75 g fresh raspberries
adds depth and a creamy counterpoint.
• 1.5 gelatin sheets, bloomed
• 50 g invert sugar
Yield: 10 verrines

1. Combine the raspberry purée and fresh

raspberries in a saucepan. Gently bring to a
simmer and remove from heat.
2. Whisk in the gelatin and invert sugar. Deposit
the mixture to verrine glasses and freeze to set.

82 Pastry Arts
 Raspberry White Assembly
Chocolate Crémeux
• Fresh raspberries
• 75 g whole milk • Pistachio nuts
• 75 g heavy cream (36% fat) • Confectioners’ sugar
• 40 g glucose syrup • White chocolate décor
• 3 gelatin sheets, bloomed • Edible gold leaf
• 
75 g Guittard Crème Française 31% White
Couverture Chocolate, chopped 1. Allow the verrines to temper under
• 300 g Boiron Raspberry Purée refrigeration and garnish with raspberries,
pistachio nuts, confectioners’ sugar, white
chocolate décor and gold leaf.
1. Combine the milk, cream and glucose in a
saucepan and bring to a simmer. Remove
from heat and stir in the bloomed gelatin.
2. Whisk in the white chocolate and raspberry
purée.
3. Emulsify thoroughly with an immersion
blender. Deposit a layer of the cremeux into
verrine glasses and chill to set.

Vanilla Parfait
• 150 g whole milk
• 210 g heavy cream (36% fat), divided
• 80 g granulated sugar
• ½ vanilla bean, split and scraped
• 2 g lemon zest
• 80 g egg yolks, beaten
• 4 gelatin sheets, bloomed

1. Combine the milk, 50 g of the heavy cream,

the sugar, vanilla bean and lemon zest in a
small saucepan. Bring just to a boil. Remove
the pan from the heat and slowly whisk in
the egg yolks. Return to heat and cook to
185˚F (85˚C). Add the bloomed gelatin,
strain, and allow to cool to 86˚F (30˚C).
2. Whip the remaining 160 g cream and gently
fold it into the cooled base.
3. Deposit a layer of the mousse into verrine
glasses and chill.

Pastry Arts 83
Expert Tips

Five Tips
Five Experts
In our Expert Tips column, we connect with
five professionals in the categories we remain
focused on—pastry, chocolate, baking, bread,
frozen—to attain one high-level tip.

84 Pastry Arts
 as sour, the natural flavor of
Bread the grain really shines through,
and it helps me focus on the
Samuel Blythe, Co-owner and flavor of the grain when working
Head Bread Baker, Leviathan with a new loaf. This method
Bakehouse, Indianapolis, IN works equally well for fermenting
loaves over a 48-hour period. If days off
Here’s a technique that I use this when are needed, this will fit right in to keeping
feeding my main bread levain for the day: I the bread healthy and not over-fermenting.
do a 130% mother inoculation percentage in Even after 48 hours, because of such a young
relation to the flour weight of the levain (for levain, the bread still has minimal sourness.
example, for 1 kg flour, I use 1.3 kg mother). Timing for proofing and judging when the
With this method, the levain is ready in less bread is ready to go into the cooler for the
than three hours. Following this process night is critical to your success. When it all
makes a very young but very ripe levain, while comes together correctly, this process can
allowing the bread to ferment properly and yield a loaf with large amounts of flavor
create a sufficient amount of air in the dough. and natural sugar which can aid in great
I have found that the loaves in the end are not caramelization of your loaves.

Pastry Arts 85
 Sofia Garcia,
croissant whiz
at Little Tart
Bakeshop. (Photo
by Sarah O’Brien)

Pastry
Sarah O’Brien, Baker and Founder,
Little Tart Bakeshop and Big Softie,
Atlanta, GA
The question I get asked most often
is about croissant production and
consistency. I’ve had bakers reach
out to me, puzzled why some days
their croissants are magic, and
others not. Generally, what I find
is that they aren’t controlling their
temperature during production.
Differing temperatures to me is
a sure-fire way to end up with
an inconsistent product, since
your dough starts to proof
before you’re ready for it to do
so. If you’re having trouble with
your croissants, I’d investigate
your temperature control at
every step: during bulking,
laminating, resting, shaping,
retarding, and finally proofing
and baking.

Photo by Heather Troutman

86 Pastry Arts
 Frozen
Helen Jo Leach, Executive Pastry Chef, The Town Company
and Hotel Kansas City’s Lobby Café, Kansas City, MO
To make an ice cream or sorbet base more scoopable and
easy to serve straight from the freezer, I add a small amount
of liquor or alcohol to it (when it makes sense with the ice
cream flavor, i.e., as in Coffee Rum ice cream) to help lower the
freezing temperature. It’s very helpful when you don’t have a
lot of time to temper an ice cream or sorbet. Also, the alcohol
can be used to complement and enhance the base flavor.

Headshot by Bonjwing Lee;

dessert shot by Aaron Leimkuehler

Helen Jo Leach’s Tropical Dreamsicle,

composed of Meyer Lemon &
Lemongrass Sherbet, Vanilla
Panna Cotta, Grapefruit,
Coriander Meringue

Pastry Arts 87
 Cake
Anna Wawzonek, Cake Decorator
and Owner, A. Elizabeth Cakes,
Vancouver, British Columbia,
Canada
Colored buttercream icings are
notorious for changing over time.
Often the color will deepen, or
change shades as it sits. Microwaving
to “set” the color is a tip that has saved
me countless hours when trying to color-
match specific tones. Heat a small amount
of buttercream icing along with your food
coloring in the microwave in short bursts,
just until the icing has melted. Mix together
well and your colour is now set. I use this as a
concentrated base and add it to a larger batch
of icing to mix up the perfect color.

88 Pastry Arts
 Chocolate
Gerhard Petzl, Master Chocolatier,
Montreux, Switzerland
Here’s something to think about if you
are presenting a dark chocolate cake
sculpture: the quality may be top-
notch, but from a certain distance (i.e.,
the other side of the room) it might
appear heavy and clumsy. Adding
harmoniously arranged small dots to it
creates not only a fresh splash of color,
but also provides you an opportunity
to adjust the design to accommodate
the season, trends and even the
client’s color preferences. It also adds
the most important touch to it: real
craftsmanship.

Pastry Arts 89
Profile

From Pitfalls to Perfection

Lauren Ko’s Path
to Pieometry
By Regina Varolli

Photo by Danielle Elliott

90 Pastry Arts
 T
here’s a word for Lauren Ko’s gorgeous geometric
pies that pop off the page. It’s “Pieometry,”
and it’s incredibly mesmerizing. A veritable
kaleidoscope of colors and shapes comprise
the Insta feed that is @lokokitchen, a parade of
picture-perfect pies that has earned Lauren an impressive
following, and a NY Times bestselling cookbook.

Lauren never set out for this pie-in-the-sky I’m on to something here! “There were people
success, and in my interview with her, she doing cakes really well, people doing cookies
confessed that posting her first geometric pie really well, but really just a small selection doing
on Instagram “was kind of an accident.” At the pie art, that I saw anyway. And their styles were
time, Lauren, who had been an avid home-baker sort of very romantic and very feminine, rustic
of everything but pie, decided she wanted to floral and foliage designs that were just not my
create an account “as a holding place for all style. I think part of the novelty that caught
the things I was making.” She’d been posting peoples’ eye was a rustic dessert, reimagined.”
a lot of her food pics and started to feel she
“didn’t want to be that person putting too many
of these photos in my personal account.” And
so, @lokokitchen was born, but without any
professional plan or influencer intentions. In fact,
it wasn’t even meant to be “pie-concentrated.”
It just so happened that her first post on @
lokokitchen was a geometric pie, combined
with a pinch of witty word play: “Life’s a
peach and then you pie.” She recalled, “I
got several hundred likes immediately,
and as a regular person, that completely
blew my mind. I thought, surely this
must be a flook, or these must be bots,
something happened and it’s not going to
happen again.”
Nevertheless, Lauren continued
to roll along the same lines, and again,
several hundred likes per post, and even
more follows. Then it hit her, “I guess

Pastry Arts 91
 Lauren is quick to point out that she’s not signature. What about her or her background
a professional, and further, that she’s self- drew her to designs she dubbed “Pieometry”?
taught. What’s even more incredible is that She explained, “I’ve always been drawn to
she only just made her first pie about a year design, and I naturally gravitate towards
before starting @lokokitchen. “When I was modern design. Clean lines, order, position,
unemployed in 2016 and had some extra I think that’s just kind of my personality.
time on my hands, I stumbled across some The other part was that when I first started
beautiful pictures of pies on Pinterest… so I dabbling, I was a pie novice, and when I saw
just Googled some recipes. I learned mostly all these ornate pies with leaves and flowers
from doing. From making pies over and over and intricate cut-outs, I thought there’s no
and over, and doughs over and over and way I can do any of these. “So I went towards
over.” That explained how she learned the geometric designs because they’re largely
logistics of making and baking the perfect constructed of straight lines, or at least using
pie, but it didn’t tell me what drew her to the basic shapes, and I thought these were things
geometric patterns that have become her that would be easy for me to execute.”

Pie photos by Lauren Ko

92 Pastry Arts
Lauren Ko’s striking pie designs are rooted in geometry, “largely constructed of straight lines” and
“basic shapes” that were easy for her to execute.

I consider Lauren more of a pie architect seek inspiration from specific artists or even
than a pie artist. Her sources of inspiration and art in general. She shared that this is largely
her processes mirror that of an architect, and because, no matter what she’s doing, she “wants
even her language when describing her work to be new and original and fresh and different.”
most often refers to the “construction” of the With that in mind, and given that @lokokitchen
pies, rather than the ‘creation.’ This isn’t to say has been rolling along for four years now, I
that Ko isn’t creative, one look at her work and asked Lauren about the challenges to stay so
you can’t deny her incredible artistry. Rather, in original and different. And, if she feels pressure
conversation, and even in her pies (Pieometry = to keep constructing. “Oh yes, I feel that
pie + geometry), there’s the distinct impression pressure all the time!” she laughed. “Once the
that her mind works along mathematical lines. account started growing, I always felt the need
There is such a thing as mathematical beauty, to keep producing something original. And now
and Lauren’s Pieometry appears to be the “pie- with even more pie accounts, the challenge to
sonification” of this notion. produce something new and creative is even
Ko admits that although she’s the sort of greater. Sometimes it’s definitely a struggle
person who appreciates art and frequents coming up with ideas, especially now that I’ve
museums when she’s traveling, she doesn’t made hundreds if not thousands of pies.”

Pastry Arts 93
 Lauren keeps her creative pie juices flowing must have been quite daunting. Sharing my
thanks in part to Pinterest, noting that she keeps thoughts with her, she replied, “Yeah, I think
boards saved with different design inspirations. you touched on all of it! It was extremely
“I have one that’s fully architecture, one that’s challenging. I obviously had no experience in the
textiles, and one that’s furniture.” And even publishing world, in the recipe-testing world, or
when she’s out walking her dog, she’ll snap any other part of this, so I felt extremely lost
images and shoot footage of things that catch and overwhelmed in the beginning. I didn’t
her eye, like different woods or landscaping even know where to start and I lost a couple
elements. months dithering about thinking, I have no idea
Ko combines all of these visual and spatial how to do this. And, I was so new to the food
sources of inspiration and spins them into space that I didn’t even have a lot of friends or
designs that often look much more complicated people I could reach out to for advice and ask
than they are to construct. “I talk a lot about ‘How do I do this?’ It was quite the adventure!”
this in my book. And that’s maybe the beauty of That adventure involved working 16 to 18
some of the geometric hours a day, seven days a
designs, that they look week, to get ahead of her
really intricate and detailed, “steep learning curve.”
but in actual execution, She described herself
they’re pretty straight- throughout the process
forward and simple.” as “mostly frantic” and
Perhaps this simplicity in powering through “lots
execution combined with of trial and error.” She
her humble pie beginnings admitted she spent a
is what propelled her book lot of time “worrying
“Pieometry” onto the New and hoping the book
York Times bestseller list. wouldn’t be a flop,” and
“This book is for she called the whole
everyone, from professional project “a monumental
chefs to beginners, undertaking.”
because - as you know - I’m Fortunately for Lauren,
a self-taught home baker and for pie-bakers
who made my first pie five everywhere, Pieometry:
years ago, and learned all
Pie photo on book cover by Ed Anderson Modern Tart Art and Pie
of this through doing and Design for the Eye and
experimenting. So I think the Palate, turned out as
that perspective helps demonstrate that this is beautiful and as usable as a baking book could
accessible to literally anyone. If I can do this, be. As a self-described “visual learner,” Lauren
anybody can do this!” ensured her book was strong on photos, with
Perfecting pie-making (and baking) many recipes boasting images of each phase of
techniques in her home kitchen is one thing, construction. Reading between the lines of her
but translating all her kitchen scribbles into clear and concise recipes, one gets the sense
structured recipes and transferring all her hard- that Lauren wants her readers to find success
earned wisdom into a user-friendly cookbook and not frustration in the pie-making process.
is quite another. She’d never written a book Given that her own path to pie perfection was
before, let alone a cookbook, and she’d never paved with mistakes and messes, she’s gained
developed recipes, so it seemed to me that it the wisdom necessary to spare her readers.

94 Pastry Arts
 I’ve always been
drawn to design,
and I naturally
gravitate towards
modern design.
Clean lines, order,
position, I think
that’s just kind of my
personality.

She went on to explain the “moral of the

story” and how it eventually led her to crack
the pie code, learning important details of pie
perfection like using the right dish (beginners
should start with a glass dish so you can see
When I asked Lauren if there was any your crust browning or your filling bubbling),
particular disaster that stood out in her mind, choosing the best thickening agent, and
one that she felt really helped her become a learning visual cues for when your pie is ready
better master of pie-making, she immediately to come out of the oven. And, most importantly,
launched into this tale: “Back before I started she added, “if you’re just beginning to bake
posting on Insta, I made a very intricate something new, maybe don’t offer that as the
geometric lattice on a pie top and I was going sole dessert at Thanksgiving when the stakes
to bring it to Thanksgiving dinner at my in-laws are very high!” The whole bloody Marionberry
house, and it was going to be the only dessert. mess was so humiliating that Lauren actually
In my inexperience, I just completely under- took a break from pie because she thought
baked the pie. We were living in Seattle and we maybe it just wasn’t her thing. “Fortunately
drove to Portland, and the pie was completely though, I made my way back. Let that be a
runny and just leaked everywhere. It was a testament to not let failure deter you, because
Marionberry pie, so it just looked like a crime you truly never know where your journey might
scene in the back seat of the car, red berry juice take you.”
all over the place.” When she got to her in-laws
she thought maybe if she just stuck the pie back
in the oven and cranked up the heat that would Regina Varolli is an author, journalist,
fix the situation. Well, it didn’t. “Of course it and the Founder & Editor-in-Chief of the new
didn’t work, and it was the only dessert, and my Food Activist Magazine, the only publication
in-laws were just so kind that they actually ate devoted to activism around food issues and
it. I just had to sit there mortified as I watched activists who use food as their medium for
them eat this undercooked, runny pie.” making a positive impact.

Pastry Arts 95
Sometimes
it’s definitely a
struggle
coming up
with ideas,
especially now
that I’ve made
hundreds if
not thousands
of pies.

96 Pastry Arts
 Photos by Danielle Elliott

Tips for Constructing

Geometric Pie Designs
When I asked Lauren what are her top tips when “Combine the dough and then put it straight
it comes to constructing her geometric pie into the fridge to chill before rolling.”
designs, or any intricate pie art for that matter,
she first told me, “Pie designs will always come “Roll the dough cold, and then put it back in the
out altered when you bake. The expectation fridge again until it’s well chilled.”
that it will come out looking exactly as it looked “Construct the elements of the design on top of
going into the oven is a little bit misguided.” a piece of parchment so it’s easy to slide a sheet-
Having said that, here’s her advice!
pan under and transfer it into the fridge as they
“The golden rule of pie-making is to keep warm. It may be necessary to continuously do
everything cold.” this throughout the construction process.”
“I use all butter dough, because shortening or “Once the pie is constructed and the design is
lard tends to be a little softer, which doesn’t set on top of the pie, freeze the completed pie
hold up as well for designs that require more
for 20-30 minutes. Make sure the entire design
time and handling.”
top is frozen solid before putting it into the
“Butter should come straight out of the fridge oven. This really helps prevent the dough from
and right into the dough.” shrinking.”

Pastry Arts 97
Teacher Feature

Associate
Professor,
International
Baking and
Pastry Institute,
Johnson & Wales
University,
Providence, RI

By Genevieve Sawyer

Richard
Miscovich,
M.B.A., CBB
98 Pastry Arts
R
ichard Miscovich teaches bread baking at the Johnson
and Wales College of Food Innovation and Technology
in Rhode Island and at the King Arthur School of
Baking in Vermont. His students are aspiring or current
professionals and home bakers, and Miscovich enjoys
helping them achieve their goals. He is a founding member of the
Bread Baker’s Guild of America and author of the acclaimed
From the Wood-Fired Oven (Chelsea Green Publishing, 2013) in
which he details the methodology and benefits of wood-fired
baking and cooking. Miscovich is passionate about every detail of
bread production, from grain growth to the appearance and flavor
of baked bread. Here, he discusses teaching, communication,
wood-fired ovens, and future trends in the bread world.

Pastry Arts 99
 subject matter is an equalizer. Teaching also
opened up my schedule so I could explore
other parts of the baking world. I had a wood-
fired oven that I had built and baked in in North
Carolina before I moved to Vermont; it allowed
me to get back there during the summertime.
To me, that was a big part of it; I was able to
write a book because of my schedule.
There are a lot of different teaching styles. I
don’t want to give anyone a hard time. I want
them to feel comfortable. You can ask [the
student] a rhetorical question like, ‘Do you
really want to pour that in at this point?’ or
‘Have you read the methodology at this step?’
or ‘Why are you combining these ingredients
at this time?’ – something like that. There are
different ways of doing it. It sounds kind of
snarky out of context, but it’s not. It’s critical
thinking, instead of saying, ‘Oh, you’re messing
up.’ We try to step them through the process.
It might be a dough handling issue, it might be
the way that they are standing. My approach
is, if I do all this critical thinking, step through,
and then say ‘stop it,’ people notice. There’s
a lot more power in that than having a tyrant
run around the kitchen coming up with stuff to
give people a hard time.

You have a degree in English. How has

that benefitted your career?
I do think the degree was useful for me, but
I’m uncomfortable saying that’s what everyone
should have. Because a lot of people have a
What drew you to teaching? How lot of experience in a lot of different parts of
would you characterize your teaching the food service industry that I don’t have
style? because I was in college. Recipes and formulas,
that is maybe the essence of being able to
I was fortunate to work at a bakery with an communicate well. You have to be succinct;
education center at King Arthur Baking. Here you have to know your audience. Am I writing
there would be affluent people and people this recipe methodology for a home baker?
who were in a different economic strata. And Or am I writing it for a professional baker for
people who were conservative and people whom all I need to say is ‘steam three seconds’,
who were liberal. And men and women. And while with the other one I might need to
all kinds of different backgrounds. And they explain what that is? I tried to write that book
always blended together. And I thought, this with some color and depth.

100 Pastry Arts

Making bread can be complex. How things we eat. A salad, for example, we should
do you effectively communicate the have control over that because it’s inert. The
process to people with little or no dough continues to change. And then we are
responsible for taking care of it.
experience?
It needs to be simplified as much as possible. In
a way, we can control all variables. For example, How did you come to master wood-
we can control dough temperature, more or fired baking?
less. We can control the speed of fermentation,
we can control the ratio of pre-fermented flour. I built my first wood-fired oven in North
Ideal dough temperature might be 78 degrees Carolina. Wood-fired ovens have fire that you
F. If it’s a couple of degrees more than that it’s can cook with when there’s a fire going, but
not a big deal, and if it’s a couple of degrees if you’re baking, then you take out that fire, it
lower it’s going to go slower, just like we do cools to a proper temperature, and you bake
sometimes, in the wintertime, move a little bit with retained heat. The cooking is from all top,
more slowly, and in the summer be a little bit bottom, and sides. You can hear the fire pop,
more active. But if it’s 20 degrees higher, that’s you can smell the smoke. It actually flavors the
bad. What if our body temperature was much food. With retained heat baking, you take that
higher than it should be? fire out, there’s no more fire in there. But it’s
The dough is like a puppy. We need to still a very active place. It depends on if you
make it do what we want it to do; but we also have the door open, or if you’re trying to cool
need to realize that it needs water, and food, it down a little bit. There’s a flavor in there,
and exercise, and fresh air. It needs certain there’s a certain environment that I think
things and it’s our responsibility to give it that affects the flavor of the bread.
in the proper proportion at the proper time
at the proper temperature. We want to start Do you have favorites when it comes
out in control and then respond when things to specific techniques, ingredients, or
start to get a little bit less controlled. You have types of bread?
less control over bread than you do over most
As I bake longer and longer into my life, I mix a
lot less and ferment a lot more. Much gentler
shaping, more folding. There are people
who only want whole grain breads, naturally
leavened sourdough breads, anything else
is just terrible. But I work in this educational
facility where we have to make all kinds of
breads, including white breads. I like pain de
mie, which is French sandwich bread. I also
make it with whole grain flour, but I like both
kinds. I think, ‘What about someone in Iowa
who’s just trying to make sandwich bread for
their kids? They can’t get any local grains, and
if they got them, and they weren’t milled, what
would they do then?’ I try to be a contrarian
in these whole grained, naturally leavened
conversations.

Pastry Arts 101

What’s your favorite type of influence. A lot of people gain access to
of bread to eat? this food that the American food system is
providing; we just have to be careful that it’s
A sourdough bread called miche. There’s egalitarian.
a particular one that I learned from James There’s a loaf of bread that was developed
MacGuire, who is this great baker and chef in cooperation with the King Arthur Bakery and
from Montreal. You make a two-kilo loaf with the Washington State Bread lab – it’s called
a sifted whole grain flour – it’s not a very acidic the Approachable Loaf. It’s made in artisan
flavor profile. It’s kind of like table bread. It bakeries, and it just has flour, water, yeast, salt,
stays fresh for a long time because it’s so big. oil and honey in it. A lot of people sell that at
If I had just one bread that I could have again, a reduced profit margin, so that the industry
it would be the miche I learned from James is moving forward and getting this bread out
MacGuire. It’s whole grain wheat flour that’s to people who might not ordinarily buy it.
sifted, and then completely naturally leavened. There are bread clubs (there is a huge one
It’s not retarded or refrigerated. It yields a out in the Pacific Northwest) where all these
nice crust, a crumb that’s open but not crazy home bakers get together, bake bread, bring
open. You can use this. It’s utilitarian. It’s also it together, slice it, bag it, and distribute it to
beautiful. people who need food. People love that bread.

What are the coming trends for bread?

Regional grain systems will continue to get
attention. The whole regional grain movement Genevieve Sawyer is a graduate of The
in general, I think, is at that point. The problem is Culinary Institute of America, a freelance
it’s still stratified socioeconomically; hopefully food writer and co-author of The Rookwood
organizations are recognizing that there are Inn’s Guide to Devouring the Berkshires –
communities that also need to have this type One Cultural Bite at a Time.

102 Pastry Arts

800.231.8154 | auifinefoods.com
Profile

Katie Bonzer
Turning Small Business
Dreams into Reality
By Tish Boyle
Photo by Ariel Kargela

104 Pastry Arts

 P
astry chef and chocolatier Katie Bonzer is not one to
let the grass grow under her feet. After honing her
pastry and chocolate skills at some of the country’s
best culinary schools and working with some of its
finest pastry chefs, she has spent the past few years
channeling her skills into entrepreneurial endeavors. She and her
pastry chef husband Jake are the co-owners of Towners Pastry
and Chocolate, with locations in Gwinn and Marquette, Michigan,
and Pizzeria Mozzi, also in Gwinn. For most small business
owners, three businesses would be enough to manage and still
retain a sense of sanity. But Katie Bonzer has more plans. Here
she talks about the pros and cons of owning multiple businesses
with her spouse, and what the future may have in store.

Are you self-taught or did you go to

culinary school?
I attended Le Cordon Bleu Los Angeles for pastry
arts, took an intensive course at ICE [Institute of
Culinary Education] in New York City on pastry
doughs, learned the fundamentals of chocolate at
Chicago Chocolate Academy, and dragée technique
through the Melissa Coppel School in Las Vegas.
Beyond that, I focus on research and development
and have had consultation from chefs such as
Nicolas Botomisy, Julian Rose and Kris Harvey.

What made you specialize in chocolate?

Healthy competition made me become a chocolatier.
My husband Jake is also a pastry chef; we went to
culinary school together and are highly competitive,
so chocolate was a great place to stake my claim
while he specialized in viennoiserie.

Pastry Arts 105

What are the pros and cons of being a chocolate-dipped items, and chocolate holiday
self-employed chocolatier? novelties. We also own Pizzeria Mozzi, because
as pastry chefs, dough is an area of special
The pro of my path as a self-employed interest, so pizza dough fit in well. At Mozzi, we
chocolatier is having full creative control over serve Italian favorites and bring chocolate into
my product, as long as it moves the needle for the restaurant via tiramisu and cannolis.
our customers. The con of being a proprietor of
multiple businesses is that that freedom comes
with great responsibility to uphold a first-rate
What are some of your favorite flavor
place of employment for our teams, as well as combinations right now and how are
a safe inclusive space for our community to you using them?
gather. Each quarter our flavors change to represent
Tell us about your business and some the seasons. Leading into fall, I enjoy working
with spices in ganaches such as allspice,
of your signature chocolate products?
cardamom, clove, nutmeg, ground ginger and
Our business – Towners Pastry and Chocolate star anise. Spirited caramels are a fine filling for
in Gwinn, Michigan – sells a range of chocolate colder months. Stone fruit pâte de fruits piped
products, including croissants, entremets, into bonbons, and intense giandujas bring
macarons, bonbons, tablets, truffle bars, richness when layered on mild ganaches.

106 Pastry Arts

The pro of my
path as a self-
employed
chocolatier
is having full
creative control
over my product,
as long as it
moves the needle
for our customers.

Photo by Alex Foster

Pastry Arts 107

A clean environment
encourages a fine
product, clean working
enables a beautiful
appearance, and after
all is said and done,
customers eat with their
eyes, so a sloppy product
will never meet the mark.

Are you doing any vegan chocolates?

No, it’s honestly not of interest. Michigan is
the Midwest – the dairyland force is strong in
these parts.

What’s the philosophy that guides your

chocolate making?
Cleanliness is next to godliness. A clean
environment encourages a fine product, clean
working enables a beautiful appearance, and
after all is said and done, customers eat with
their eyes, so a sloppy product will never meet
the mark.

Do you have any technique or

production tips revolving around
chocolate you can share with us?
Learn how to properly temper and pre-
crystallize. That’s the issue nine out of ten
times with cocoa butter colors, couverture
and ganaches. Study recipe percentages;
chocolate is science and the rules always
apply. Buy more molds, make larger runs and
learn proper freezing technique. All of these
can be found on my Instagram account, @
katiebonzerchocolatier.

108 Pastry Arts

 Product photos by Katie Bonzer

How did the pandemic affect your earshot of one-another, so it is a consistent

business, and what did you change as a open dialogue for ideas to flow. Building
result? business proposals, menus, and assessing
financial risk is probably our favorite way to
The pandemic was a rollercoaster for our spend time together outside of entertaining
business; it created times of feast and times of our sons. For balance after working 12-plus-
famine. We opened two restaurants during the hour-days regularly, we take vacations, because
pandemic, in addition to our patisserie. One if all you do is work, than you don’t have as
was a preexisting business next door to the much opportunity to spend your income, so
original Towners. The owners wanted out, and we enjoy splurge trips like a couples romantic
the opportunity was too good to pass up, thus getaway to Paris or with our kids to Disneyland
the birth of Pizzeria Mozzi. The second Towners in California.
location came about because we needed
space for a chocolate kitchen and with people
“Staying Home Staying Safe,” we anticipated a Any future plans you’d like to tell us
drop in holiday chocolate sales at our original about?
Towners due to its remote location. We were In keeping with the copious amounts of
wrong, we met the same chocolate sales in our information we share via Instagram, we are
first month in business at the new location as launching our educational podcast, ‘Bonzer
we had in chocolate sales the entire previous Method’ this fall. You can expect to learn about
year at the original Towners location. chocolate, food science, starting a business,
strategy in the hospitality industry, guest
How do you and your chef-husband interviews, and more. If that wasn’t enough,
– and business partner – balance we also have a new venture starting January
1, 2022 that has been a dream of ours for 15
your work and home life? Do you talk
years. We’re radiating with excitement to see
business at home? our vision come to life in the new year, and
Business never sleeps, and neither does Jake, can’t wait to share with everyone, but for now
ha! We spend 80 percent of the day within it’s still under wraps!

Pastry Arts 109

Specialty Desserts

Pina
Colada Tart
(lactose-free)
By Chef Richard Hawke

110 Pastry Arts

O riginally from Sydney, Australia, Richard Hawke discovered his love for pastry
during an apprenticeship with a French pastry chef in his home city. Inspired
by this experience, he traveled to Lyon, where he landed a job with Jérôme
Langillier (Champion du Monde de Pâtisserie, 2009). Hawke continued to hone his
pastry skills at various pâtisseries in the region, then took a position teaching at l’Ecole
Nationale Supérieure de la Pâtisserie, the school founded by Yves Thuries and Alain
Ducasse, where he deepened his knowledge in all aspects of his profession.
Today, Richard teaches master classes at the finest pastry schools around the globe
and works as a consultant for international clients. He specializes in allergen-free
baking, and has just released his first book, ADAPT: A Unique Pastry Concept (ICEP
Publishing, 2021), which features a collection of Hawke’s recipes, each presented in
three different versions: gluten-free, vegan and lactose-free. Ingredients include both
gram amounts and percentages to enable readers to understand and adapt the recipes
easier. The book is written in English and French, and includes beautiful photographs of
his elegant desserts.
ADAPT is available at www.icephotelschool.com/adapt-the-book. Following is the
lactose-free version of a recipe from the book – you will find the full vegan and gluten-
free versions as well as percentages in the book.

Makes about 16 (using 2.7ʺ/7 cm diameter x 0.78ʺ/2 cm high tart rings)

Almond Shortbread (lactose-free)

• 234 g brown rice flour 1. In a stand mixer using the paddle
• 74 g cornstarch attachment, mix the dry ingredients with
coconut oil (melted to 77-86˚F/25-30°C)
• 3.5 g guar gum (Louis François)
to form a mixture with a sandy texture.
• 119 g confectioners’ sugar Add the remaining ingredients. Roll out
• 40 g almond powder between two sheets of parchment paper
• 3 g salt to 0.12ʺ (3 mm) thick, then refrigerate (or
• 122 g coconut oil (odorless), freeze) for use.
melted to (25-30˚C) 2. Line 2.7ʺ/7 cm diameter x 0.78ʺ/2 cm
• 66 g eggs high tart rings and bake at 302˚F (150°C)
for 15 minutes. Cool.
• 37 g water

Pastry Arts 111

 Almond Cream
(lactose-free)
• 100 g confectioners’ sugar
• 100 g almond powder
• 100 g grapeseed oil
• 100 g eggs

1. Mix dry ingredients together and add oil.

Mix in eggs to finish. Pipe 20 g into each
par- baked shell and bake at 338˚F (170°C)
for 15-20 minutes.
2. Remove from the oven and flatten tops.

Lime Cream
(vegan)
• 185 g water
• 60 g lime puree (Capfruit)
• 3 g pectin NH (Louis François)
• 6 g Souflix thickener (Louis François)
• 6 g citrus fiber
• 72 g superfine granulated sugar
• 48 g cocoa butter
• 20 g coconut oil

1. Heat water and puree to 122˚F (50˚C). Add

pectin NH, Souflix, citrus fiber and sugar
and blend to remove lumps. Heat to 185˚F
(85˚C), whisking constantly. Pour onto cocoa
butter and coconut oil and emulsify with
hand blender.
2. Refrigerate (39˚F/4˚C) overnight before
piping.

112 Pastry Arts

 Pineapple Brunoise
(vegan)
• Fresh pineapple, as needed
• Raw (unrefined) sugar, as needed
• Lime zest, as needed Assembly
• Vanilla bean, as needed
• Desiccated coconut, as needed
1. Cut pineapple into a 0.2ʺ (5 mm) dice. Taste • Silver luster dust, as needed
and add sugar and lime zest accordingly. • Silver leaf, as needed
Allow to macerate in refrigerator for 1-2
hours.
1. Spread Lime Cream onto baked Almond
2. Before using to decorate tarts, strain to Cream and smooth. Place strained Pineapple
remove excess water. Brunoise on top.
2. Place coconut and luster dust into a sealed
Coconut Mousse container before shaking to create silver
coconut.
(lactose-free) 3. Remove Coconut Mousse from freezer and
heat surface with a heat gun. Pat silver
• 497 g coconut puree (Capfruit) coconut directly onto mousse before placing
• 56 g gelatin mass (200 bloom) on top of the tart. Finish with silver leaf.
• 98 g egg whites, pasteurized
• 49 g superfine granulated sugar

1. Heat the puree to 68-77˚F (20-25°C0.

2. Melt the gelatin mass to 104˚F (40°C)
before adding to the puree. Heat the
coconut oil to 104˚F (40°C) and pour into
puree mixture before emulsifying with
hand blender.
3. Whip the whites with the sugar to form a
creamy meringue. Fold the meringue into
the cooled (68-71˚F/20-22˚C) base.
4. F
 ill Pavoni PX3208 molds with mousse,
then blast-freeze. Use QR code for access to vegan and
gluten-free versions of this recipe.

Pastry Arts 113

Recipe

Appelina
By Emmanuel Hamon

114 Pastry Arts

C
Caramelized Apples (Tatin style)
• 10 apples
• 100 g unsalted butter
aramel and • 150 g granulated sugar
apple are two
1. Peel and core the apples.
flavors that 2. Place each apple in a 3.14ʺ (8 cm) demi-sphere
go together silicone mold and surround with butter and sugar.
very well, and being Breton, I Cover with another demi-sphere mold (same size).
particularly love this combination. Bake at 338˚F (170˚C) for about an hour.
With Appelina, I wanted a delicacy
in the mouth with apples cooked Vanilla Cremeux
‘Tatin style’, and also I wanted to • 150 g eggs yolks
create a dessert in which the flavors • 90 g granulated sugar
would be recognizable at a single • 2 vanilla beans, split
glance. • 450 g fresh cream 35%
1. In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar
Yield: one log of 21.6ʺ x 2.7ʺ
(55 cm x 7 cm), to make three 7ʺ and vanilla bean seeds. Heat the cream slightly,
(18 cm) cakes then pour over the egg yolk mixutre. Let cool for
about 10 minutes.
2. Pour into 20ʺ x 2.3ʺ (50 cm x 6 cm) silicone
inserts that are about 0.4ʺ (1 cm) high. Bake at
185-194˚F (85-90˚C) for about 40-60 minutes,
checking occasionally to make sure the cream
Almond Biscuit is not boiling inside the oven. Remove from the
oven and freeze.
• 180 g unsalted butter, softened
• 200 g granulated sugar
• 200 g whole almond powder
Caramel Mousse
• 55 g all-purpose flour • 250 g fresh cream 35%, divided
• 200 g whole eggs • 200 g granulated sugar
• 90 g egg yolks
1. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted • 8 g gelatin
with the paddle attachment, cream • 420 g whipped cream
together the softened butter and sugar
at 2nd speed. Add the almond powder 1. Heat 200 g of the cream until hot. Make a dry
and flour. Finish by incorporating the caramel with the sugar and deglaze with the hot
eggs one by one, mixing until smooth. cream.
Spread on baking sheet in a 23.6ʺ x 2. Whisk the remaining 50 g of the cream with
7.8ʺ (60 cm x 20 cm) rectangle. Bake the egg yolks, then pour into the caramel and
at 350˚F (175˚C) for 10-15 minutes. cook, stirring constantly with a silicone spatula,
Cool. to 185˚F (85˚C) Add the gelatin and mix with a
2. Cut three 21.6ʺ x 2.3ʺ (55 cm x 6 cm) hand blender. Let cool to 95˚F (35˚C), then fold
strips from the biscuit. in the whipped cream.

Pastry Arts 115

 boil for a minute. Add the drained gelatin
Hazelnut Streusel and mix to dissolve. Cover with plastic wrap
and cool down in refrigerator. Use the glaze
• 100 g unsalted butter at 95˚F (35˚C).
• 100 g brown sugar
• 100 g all-purpose flour
• 120 g hazelnut powder Assembly
1. Mix together the butter with the brown • Thinly sliced apples
sugar. Add the flour and hazelnut powder • 
White chocolate-cocoa butter spray (50%
and mix until it forms a dough. Roll them of each), colored tan
into 23ʺ (60 cm) log, then wrap and freeze
until firm. 1. Arrange the apple slices on a lined sheet
2. Bake at 320˚F (160˚C) for 15- 20 minutes. pan and dry at 158˚F (70˚C) for 2 hours.
3. Cut into 7-8ʺ (18-20 cm) segments. Using a metal ring, cut out different sizes of
round from the slices.
Caramel Glaze 2. Fill one-third of a log mold with the Caramel
Mousse, then place the Vanilla Cremeux in
• 450 g granulated sugar, divided the center and cover with a layer of Almond
• 50 g water Biscuit. Arrange some of the Caramelized
• 300 g cream Apples on top and cover with more Caramel
• 220 g water, hot Mousse. Place another layer of Almond
• 30 g cornstarch Biscuit on top, then a layer of streusel on
• 12 g gelatin sheets, bloomed top to close the mold. Freeze.
3. Spray some of the Hazelnut Streusel logs
1. Make a caramel with 400 g of the sugar and with the white chocolate-cocoa butter
the 50 g of water. Deglaze with the cream spray.
and the 220 g hot water. 4. Bring the glaze to 95˚F (35˚C) and glaze the
2. Toss the remaining 50 g sugar with the dessert. Decorate with some of the sprayed
cornstarch, then add to the caramel and streusel logs and some dried apple slices.

116 Pastry Arts

 Emmanuel
Hamon
Artisan Patissier,
Emmanuel Hamon Pastry Consulting,
Kiev, Ukraine

Early Influence Production Tip

I was eight years old when I told my parents For me, what is very important is to rationalize
that I wanted to be a pastry chef. I have no idea the production time of a recipe, and to have a
where that came from, except that I loved to recipe that can be used to make three or four
eat cake as kid. But I don’t know any pastry different cakes, for example. Also, I always
chef who is not passionate, so I believe that if tell all my pastry chef employees the price of
passion is there, then all becomes easy. ingredients – it is important that people know
that you do care when you use expensive
Signature Style ingredients.
I would describe it as ‘textural’ and greatly
influenced by nature. Technical Tip
I believe that there is no secret to good
Inspiration for New Recipes technique – by working and repetition we
manage to control and get a feel for techniques
I do not have a specific process; sometimes I
or ingredients. For example, with experience
begin with an idea for the look of the dessert,
we can touch the chocolate and can temper it
sometimes with the flavor. Sometimes it comes
without using a thermometer.
easily, other times not. But I like to surprise
people with the unexpected.
Career Advice
Current Flavor Favorites Always be curious and learning – especially
today that evolution of pastry moves so fast,
I like to try everything and present improbable
and never be afraid to try or test anything new.
combinations, such as mixing green olive jam
or red pepper or avocado with chocolate, for
example. I have always had the philosophy
that it is for the chef to propose news tastes to
customers – that is part of our job.

Pastry Arts 117

Recipe

Chevre Cheesecake
Blackberry Compote,
Yuzu Curd and Honey Gelée
By Heather Campbell

118 Pastry Arts

 T Coconut Feuilletine
his dessert emanates Southern California with the subtle
addition of the chevre to a traditional cheesecake base.
The citrus and honey notes are also a wink to the local
agriculture and well-tended bee hives.
Yield: 15 individual 3ʺ (7.6 cm) round servings

1. Combine all the dry ingredients and

mix well. Slowly blend in the melted
Graham Crust butter until the ingredients are well
coated.
• 113 g graham cracker crumbs 2 Deposit into 3ʺ (7.6 cm) round
Fleximat forms, pressing until the
• 113 g shredded desiccated coconut, toasted
crust is uniform and compact. Bake
• 113 g feuilletine at 325˚F (163˚C) for 8 minutes, until
• 200 g granulated sugar set. Allow to cool before adding
• 340 g salted butter, melted cheesecake filling.

Pastry Arts 119

 no lumps. Slowly add the cream cheese in
Chevre Cheesecake handfuls until completely blended, scraping
the bowl after every addition. Repeat with
• 255 g heavy cream the chevre cheese. Add the sour cream, mix,
• 85 g water and scrape the bowl down again. Take about
1 cup of the mixture and whisk into the
• 11.3 g Knox powdered gelatin melted gelatin. Pour the gelatin mixture into
• 170 g unsalted butter, room temperature the mixing bowl on low speed. Scrape the
• 255 g granulated sugar bowl and blend again. Fold in the whipped
• ¼ teaspoon salt cream in thirds by hand.
• 255 g cream cheese, room temperature 4. Deposit into a 3ʺ (7.6 cm) Flexi mat form
that has been prepared with the Coconut
• 255 g chevre cheese
Feuillitine crust. Freeze until set. Remove
• 85 g sour cream and thaw at least 45 minutes before serving.

1. Whip the cream to soft peaks and set aside

in refrigerator.
Serving
2. Place the water into a small mixing bowl.
Sprinkle the gelatin on top and whisk to • Fresh Blackberries
blend through. Once set, melt over a bain • White chocolate décor
marie until liquid and clear. Set aside.
3. Combine the butter, sugar and salt in a stand 1. Garnish cake with fresh blackberries and a
mixer and blend with a paddle until there are white chocolate décor.

120 Pastry Arts

 Heather
Campbell
Executive Pastry Chef, Ojai Valley Inn &
Spa, Ojai, CA

Current Flavor Favorites

I have always had the best success in pairing
flavors in opposition. For example, fat with acid.
Chevre and Yuzu Citrus directly reflect this. I find
it interesting as one component will take another
to a higher level in the combination of the two.
Once more, as details are added – such as sweet
and sour notes –the dessert evolves into a more
sophisticated creation which keeps my curiosity
humming!
Early Influence
My earliest influence came directly from my Production Tip
parents. Both loved to cook, and as a family Embrace the faux wedding cake! Midway through
we also enjoyed dining around the great city of my career I worked at a triple five-star property
Chicago. Their passion continues to drive my that made faux Styrofoam-based display wedding
career as I search for the same smiles I gave them cakes exclusively. I was conflicted at first as
with my cooking and baking on the face of every I’m also a cake artist, but then quickly realized
guest I have the privilege to serve. that making the real cake separately for the
plated dessert service was significantly more
Signature Style professional in appearance.
Five-star, with relatable but intriguing flavor notes
and plate design. Technical Tip
I have mastered writing dessert menus. It takes
Inspiration for New Recipes me under 10 minutes to design a menu given
I have a personal library that contains hundreds a theme, such as a restaurant’s identity or the
of cookbooks and periodicals from the past 25 holidays. Start with a basic menu framework: a
years of my career; I reference these as well as custard based dessert, a chocolate dessert, fruit
culinary social media. As for my process, I create highlighted dessert, fromage centered dessert,
the basic component of the dessert, in this case etc. Then fill in the details with inspired flavors,
an American cheesecake, and then I add local colors and textures.
highlights in a variety of flavors and textures. My
inspiration is fueled by many art genres in addition Career Advice
to culinary: music, fashion, drawings, paintings, The best advice I received was from my mentor
sculpture, and so on. It is steady reinforcement Chef Stanton Ho: Love your work to the extent
that artistry at any level will always have a strong that you will never compromise on its integrity
priority in this world. and the gift it is to others.

Pastry Arts 121

Recipe

Dark Chocolate
and Raspberry
Petit Gateau
By Nicholas Forte
Sponsored by Ghirardelli

122 Pastry Arts

 T
his dessert truly showcases the versatility of Ghirardelli
products, using it in seven of the recipes below. In addition
to the chocolate products, raspberry adds a bright,
refreshing taste throughout the cake. This petit gateau is
composed of a crunchy layer of salted cocoa sablé, an insert
of raspberry confit, dark chocolate and raspberry ganache,
chocolate biscuit, and a light airy chocolate mousse. To
finish, the cake is glazed and garnished with chocolate
macarons and gold butterflies, giving it a complex taste and
whimsical appearance.

Yield: 12 petits gateaux

depending on your environment, until they

Chocolate Macarons are dry to the touch.
4. Bake at 275˚F (135˚C) for 15 minutes,
• 63 g almond flour turning the sheet pans halfway through.
• 65 g confectioners’ sugar Then turn off the oven and let the macarons
• 
10 g Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa continue to dry out. Once cool, reserve in
Sweet Ground Powder airtight container.
• 50 g aged egg whites
• 50 g granulated sugar Chocolate Shiny Glaze
1. Place the almond flour, confectioners’ sugar • 10 g gold gelatin sheets
and Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa • 160 g heavy cream
Sweet Ground Powder in food processor.
• 160 g water
Pulse a few times to combine, then sift
mixture. • 
100 g Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa
Sweet Ground Powder
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
whisk attachment, start to whip the egg • 
200 g granulated sugar
whites. Once foamy, slowly add the sugar
a little bit at a time. Continue to whip until 1. Bloom gelatin in ice water; reserve.
stiff peaks form. Fold in the almond mixture. 2. In a saucepan, bring the heavy cream,
3. Line two sheet pans with silicone baking water, Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa
mats. On one sheet pan, pipe macarons the Sweet Ground Powder and sugar to a boil.
size of a nickel. On the other sheet pan, pipe Add the bloomed gelatin and blend with an
them the size of a quarter. Gently tap the immersion blender. Cover the surface of the
pans with your hand to flatten macarons a glaze with plastic wrap and reserve in the
bit. Let the macarons dry for 30-60 minutes, refrigerator overnight.

Pastry Arts 123

 Chocolate Biscuit
• 
30 g Ghirardelli Bittersweet 60%
Cacao Baking Chips
• 
30 g unsalted butter
• 
74 g almond flour
• 
15 g Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate &
Cocoa Sweet Ground Powder
• 
50 g whole eggs
• 
88 g egg yolks
• 
108 g egg whites
• 
108 g granulated sugar

1. In a small container, melt the

Ghirardelli 60% Cacao Chocolate
Chips and butter. Set aside.
2. Combine the almond flour and
Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa
Sweet Ground Powder in a bowl.
Add the whole eggs and yolks and
whisk until smooth. Add the dark
chocolate and butter mixture to the
egg mixture and whisk until smooth.
3. Make a meringue with the egg
whites and granulated sugar. Fold
the meringue into the chocolate
mixture, but being careful not to
deflate the batter.
4. Line a half sheet pan with parchment
paper, and gently spread the
chocolate biscuit evenly over it. Bake
at 400˚F (204˚C) for 10 minutes. Let
cool and then place in freezer.
5. Cut out rounds of chocolate biscuit,
then place back in freezer.

124 Pastry Arts

 Raspberry Confit Salted Cocoa Sablé
• 
335 g raspberry purée • 
122 g all-purpose flour
• 
135 g granulated sugar • 
12 g Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa
• 
8 g pectin Sweet Ground Powder
• 
12 fresh raspberries, halved • 
45g confectioners’ sugar
• 
2 g salt
1. In a saucepan, heat the raspberry purée to • 
18 g almond flour
122˚F (50˚C). • 
64 g unsalted butter, cold, cubed
2. In small bowl, mix together the sugar and • 
25 g whole eggs
pectin. Add this mixture to the raspberry
puree, and bring to a boil. Fill insert molds 1. Place the flour, Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate &
1/3 full, and place 2 raspberry halves inside Cocoa Sweet Ground Powder, confectioners’
confit. Freeze. Reserve remaining Raspberry sugar, salt and almond flour into a mixing
Confit for macarons. bowl fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix
briefly.
Dark Chocolate 2. Add the cold butter, and mix with paddle
until mixture becomes sandy and butter
Raspberry Ganache cubes disappear. Be careful not to over-
mix. Add the whole eggs and mix just until
• 
156 g raspberry purée combined.
• 
75 g glucose 3. Roll the dough between two sheets of
• 
165 g Ghirardelli 60% Cacao Chocolate parchment paper and then refrigerate for 2
Chips hours.
• 
33g unsalted butter 4. Cut out rounds from the dough, then bake
between two perforated silicone baking
mats at 349˚F (176˚C) for 12 minutes. Cool
1. Bring the raspberry puree and glucose to and reserve for assembly.
149˚F (65˚C). Pour the mixture over the
dark chocolate and emulsify with immersion
blender. Add the butter and emulsify again.
2. Pour the ganache on top of the frozen
raspberry confit, filling up 2/3 of the insert
mold. Place the reserved chocolate biscuit
on top of ganache, completing the insert.
Freeze.
3. Reserve the remaining ganache into a
container in the refrigerator for filling the
macarons.

Pastry Arts 125

 Chocolate Butterfly Tuiles
• 
30 g unsalted butter, softened
• 
50 g confectioners’ sugar
• 
32 g egg whites
• 
40 g all-purpose flour
• 
10 g Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa Sweet
Ground Powder

1. Using a spatula, cream together the softened

butter and confectioners’ sugar. Slowly add the
egg whites and mix until combined. Add the flour
and Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate & Cocoa Sweet
Ground Powder and mix until combined.
2. Spread over chablon or stencil and bake at 329˚F
(165˚C) for 6-7 minutes.

Cake Assembly
Light Chocolate Mousse
1. Fill petit gateau mold halfway with chocolate
• 
610 g heavy cream, divided mousse. Place insert into mousse (raspberry
confit-side down) until the chocolate biscuit is
• 
4.5 g gold gelatin sheets
flush with the top. Place a reserved sable on top
• 
50 g granulated sugar of the chocolate biscuit. Freeze overnight.
• 
143 g Ghirardelli 60% Cacao
Chocolate Chips
Final Assembly
1. In a mixing bowl, whisk 420 g of the
heavy cream until soft peaks form. • 
Gold luster dust
Reserve in cooler.
2. Bloom gelatin sheets in ice water, 1. The next day, unmold the petit gateau and place
reserve. on glazing rack. Place back in freezer.
3. Place remaining 190 g heavy cream and 2. Fill macarons with reserved ganache and
sugar in small pot and bring to simmer. confit. Warm glaze to 64˚F (18˚C) and blend
Add bloomed gelatin. with immersion blender, being careful not to
4. Pour this mixture over the Ghirardelli incorporate bubbles. Pour glaze over frozen cake,
60% Cacao Chocolate Chips, then sliding an offset spatula over the top to remove
emulsify with immersion blender. Once excess glaze. Transfer glazed cake to serving
chocolate mixture reaches 95˚F (35˚C), plate. Garnish by placing small macarons around
carefully fold in the reserved whipped the bottom, and a large macaron and raspberry
to achieve a light airy mousse. Place in on top. Top the macaron with a gold-dusted
pastry bag and use immediately. butterfly tuile.

126 Pastry Arts

 Start a FOOD
FIGHT that
makes a
POSITIVE
IMPACT

Get your
HANDS
dirty DOING
GOOD

Food Activist Mag

Recipe

Chocolate
Brandy
By Manuel Bouillet

128 Pastry Arts

 T
Chocolate Pâte Sucrée
his recipe is all about the intensity and the hint of smokiness
from the chocolate. The goal was to have a flavorful pastry
and something original at the same time. Of course, this is
only for an adult palate.

Yield: 16 servings

• 19 gelatin mass (1:6)

• 192 mascarpone cheese
• 60 g Saint Rémy Brandy 60%
• 400 g T55 flour
• 45 g Cacao Barry Plein Arôme cocoa
powder 1. Heat the cream with the vanilla beans and
infuse for 10 minutes.
• 227 g unsalted butter 82%
2. Strain the infusion and return to the
• 56 g confectioners’ sugar
saucepan. Whisk together the yolks and
• 56 g raw sugar
sugar and temper into the cream. Cook
• 4 g fleur de sel to anglaise stage (185˚F/85˚C). Add the
• 113 g almond flour gelatin mass and pour over the mascarpone.
• 95 g whole eggs Burr mix with the brandy and refrigerate
overnight.
1. Mix together the T55 flour and cocoa 3. Right before using, whip the Chantilly. Use
powder. 35 g of the cream for each 2.3ʺ (6 cm) half-
2. Combine butter with the confectioners’ sphere.
and raw sugar and the fleur de sel. Add the
almond flour and half the cocoa powder
mixture. Add the eggs, then the remaining Dark Chocolate
cocoa powder mixture. Chill, then roll out Crunchy Glaze
to 0.07ʺ (2 mm). Cut out 2.7ʺ (7 cm) rounds
and bake on a perforated silicone mat.
• 401 g Cacao Barry Cuba 70% chocolate
• 8 g cocoa butter
Brandy Chantilly • 40 g grapeseed oil
• 52 g toasted walnut pieces
• 207 g heavy cream 35.1%
• 1.5 vanilla beans, split and scraped 1. Melt the chocolate, cocoa butter and
• 39 g egg yolks grapeseed oil together. Add the walnut
• 31 g granulated sugar pieces. Use glaze at 93-95˚F (34-35˚C).

Pastry Arts 129

 Walnut Brownie Chocolate Cremeux
• 136 g unsalted butter 82%, softened • 154 g whole milk
• 100 g granulated sugar • 16 g glucose
• 20 g invert sugar • 39 g gelatin mass
• 1.5 g fleur de sel • 283 g Cacao Barry Cuba 70%
• 155 g Cacao Barry Cuba 70% chocolate, • 308 g heavy cream 35.1 %
melted
• 69 g T55 flour, sifted 1. Heat the milk, glucose and gelatin mass to
• 60 heavy cream 35.1% 158˚F (70˚C). Pour over the chocolate and
• 100 g whole eggs, room temperature emulsify to make a ganache.
• 110 g toasted walnuts 2. Add the cream and Burr-mix. Chill.

1. Combine the softened butter, sugar, invert Assembly

sugar and fleur de sel.
2. With the chocolate at 113-122˚F (45-50˚C),
• Walnut paste 100%
add it to the butter mixture, mixing until
well blended. Mix in the sifted flour, then • Walnut pieces
the cream and the whole eggs. Mix in the • Thin chocolate shards
walnuts.
3. Portion batter into 1.5ʺ (4 cm) demi-sphere 1. Pipe some walnut paste into 1.5ʺ (4 cm)
molds and bake at 320˚F (160˚C) with fan round silicone molds and freeze.
until done. 2. Pipe the Brandy Chantilly into 2.4ʺ (6 cm)
demi-sphere silicone molds. Insert the
brownie, pushing it all the way to the bottom,
then add the walnut paste insert. Smooth
the top with a little more of the Chantilly,
then freeze.
3. Unmold and glaze with the Chocolate
Crunchy Glaze. Place a Chocolate Pâte
Sucrée round on top. Pipe the Chocolate
Cremeux on top and then create a cavity
using a warm Parisian melon baller. Fill
with some walnut paste. Garnish with a
few walnut pieces and a few thin chocolate
shards.

130 Pastry Arts

 Manuel Bouillet
International Pastry Consultant,
Twins’ Creative Lab, Taipei, Taiwan

Early Influence Current Flavor Favorites

As a seven-year-old child growing up in I love to use original ingredients. We have amazing
a small village in Normandy, France, my herbs here in Taiwan, and I love to use thyme and basil
school was situated next to a bakery. From in my recipes. With fruits, it is a perfect refreshing
the playground of this old school, through a combo! I also am inspired by the liquor industry – the
little window, I was able to see the baker and combination of flavors in favorite cocktails can be
the pastry chef working. As a kid I went to replicated as pastries, too.
that bakery to buy candies and other sweets
almost every day. From then on, I knew what Production Tip
my path would be. I believe that we need to work with computers to
be good technicians. I encourage chefs to develop
Signature Style recipes first on an Excel spreadsheet in order to
For me, taste is number one. Before thinking analyze percentages and see the structure of the
about a design, I always think about a recipe. This will also help you to better calculate your
combination of flavors I will love. Then I think production.
and the shape and design. Doing trompe l’oeil
pastries aren’t my thing. I mainly like pastries Technical Tip
that you feel attracted to because they look I love changing recipes. As I often say to my students,
appealing. use recipes as basics, and reformulate them to have
thousands of them. People are always looking for
Inspiration for New Recipes ‘recipes’ – what they don’t know is that they can also
Since I moved to Asia, my vision of taste has create their own. With experience, it become seasier
changed a lot. I love to use local flavors that to play with basics in order to have something new.
will make people happy. The level of sugar
here is way, way less than anywhere else, Career Advice
and I have become really sensitive to eating Keep the passion first – this is sometimes a very
things that are too sweet. My goal is to adapt hard industry, and things aren’t rosy every day. It is,
to serve our customers better. however, a very rewarding one, too.

Pastry Arts 131

Recipe

Modern
Pear Tart
By Mathias Boirie

132 Pastry Arts

 W Sweet Dough
hen I was a child, our family had a pear tree, and
every year we would collect the pears and make
tarts and jam or fruit salad with them. Inspired by
that memory, I present to you a modern pear tart
in the shape of a pear and with the flavor of yuzu
inside, which gives it a fresh flavor and character.
Yield: 24 servings

and simmer for 4 minutes. The pears are

cooked when you can insert the tip of a
knife without resistance. Cool.
• 240 g unsalted butter 2. Cut the pears into cubes.
• 165 g confectioners’ sugar
• 5 g salt
• 55 g almond flour Tres Leches Cake
• 90 g liquid eggs
• 450 g cake flour, sifted • 285 g unsalted butter
• 535 g granulated sugar
1. Cream together the butter, sugar, salt and • 255 g liquid eggs
almond flour. Slowly add eggs, scraping • 340 g all-purpose flour
down bowl halfway through. Add sifted • 7 g baking soda
flour and mix until combined.
• 4 g baking powder
2. Spread onto parchment-lined sheet pans
and chill in cooler. Sheet and fit into 3ʺ (7.6 • 5 g salt
cm) tart rings. Bake at 330˚F (165˚C) for 15 • 310 g buttermilk
minutes. • 15 g vanilla paste
• 300 g poached pears, cubed
Poached Pears
1. Cream the butter and sugar with a paddle
• 1000 g water until light and fluffy. Slowly add the eggs,
beating until just combined. Alternately
• 500 g pear liqueur
adding the sifted dry ingredients with the
• 500 g granulated sugar buttermilk and vanilla paste, beginning and
• 50 g vanilla paste ending with the dry ingredients. Mix just
• 5 g lemon zest until combined. Spread 1700 grams evenly
• 5 pears, peeled onto sprayed parchment-lined sheet pam.
Sprinkle with poached pear cubes. Bake at
1. Pour the water, pear liqueur, sugar, vanilla 350˚F (180˚C) until done, about 25 minutes.
paste and zest into a saucepan and bring Cool.
to a boil. Immediately add the peeled pears 2. Cut out rounds with 2.4ʺ (6 cm) cutter.

Pastry Arts 133

 1. Bloom gelatin.
Yuzu Curd 2. Make an Italian meringue with the egg
whites, sugar and water.
• 70 g egg yolks 3. Warm some of the puree, then mix in the
• 70 g unsalted butter gelatin until dissolved. Add the remaining
• 70 g granulated sugar puree.
• 20 g vanilla paste 4. Mix a small amount of the whipped cream
• 5 g lemon zest into the meringue. Fold in the puree, then
the remaining cream. Pipe into molds. Insert
• 70 g yuzu juice
frozen Vanilla Pear Gelée Insert. Make
mousse level. Freeze.
1. Put all the ingredients in a saucepan and
cook, whisking, until thickened. Cool, then
mix. Coating Chocolate
• 500 g cocoa butter
Vanilla Pear Gelée Insert
• 250 g Valrhona Ivoire 35% white chocolate
• 250 g Valrhona Yuzu Inspiration
• 2 g gelatin powder
• Food coloring
• 14 g water
• 8 g glucose
1. Melt the cocoa butter and chocolates in
• 8 g trimoline
a bain-marie. Mix in food coloring; use at
• 35 g granulated sugar 95˚F (35˚C).
• 425 g pear purée
• 10 g vanilla paste
• 200 g poached pear cubes

1. Bloom gelatin in the water.

2. Combine glucose, trimoline, sugar and the
purée in a pot. Heat until the mixture is
hot and the sugar is dissolved. Stir in the
bloomed gelatin and vanilla paste. Cool,
then add pear cubes and pipe into silicone
sphere molds. Freeze until set.

Pear Mousse
• 10 g gelatin sheets
• 90 g egg whites
• 150 g granulated sugar
• 30 g water
• 370 g pear purée
• 370 g heavy cream, whipped

134 Pastry Arts

 Crystallized Pear Yuzu White
Chocolate Chantilly
• 3 firm pears
• 180 g granulated sugar • 6 g gelatin powder
• 20 g glucose • 36 g water
• 200 g water • 360 g heavy cream 36%, divided
• 20 g yuzu juice • 100 g yuzu purée
• 20 g unsalted butter
1. Slice the pears with a mandolin to 0.12ʺ (3 • 230 g Valrhona Yuzu Inspiration
mm). • 45 g Valrhona Chocolate Ivoire 35%
2. Heat the remaining ingredients in a • 5 g vanilla paste
saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the pear
slices and cook for 4 minutes. Drain and
place the slices between 2 silicone baking 1. Bloom the gelatin powder with the water.
mats on a sheet pan. Bake at 210˚F (100˚C) 2. In a saucepan, bring 160 g of the cream, the
for 2 hours. purée and butter to a boil. Remove from
heat and mix in the softened gelatin. Pour
over the chocolates and Burr-mix. Add the
Pear Glaze remaining 200 g of the cream (cold) and
the vanilla and blend. Strain. Reserve in the
• 230 g granulated sugar, divided cooler overnight before using.
• 200 g dextrose
• 604 g water, divided Assembly
• 100 g pear purée
• 50 g glucose 1. Pipe some Yuzu Curd in the bottom of the
• 15 g pectin NH tart shells and top with frozen Tres Leches
• 1 g citric acid Cake and then more Yuzu Curd. Smooth the
• 4 g water top and freeze.
2. Whip the Yuzu Ganache with a whisk. Place
the tart on a cake turntable and pipe the
1. Whisk together 200 g of the sugar with the whipped ganache onto the tart starting
dextrose. from the center and moving towards the
2. Add the sugar-dextrose mixture to 400 g of perimeter.
the water, the purée and the glucose in a 3. Have the pears frozen at -4˚F (-20˚C) and
pot and heat to 104˚F (40˚C). coat with the Coating Chocolate, using
3. Mix the pectin NH with the remaining 30 g different colors to make small spots with
sugar and add to the syrup. a stiff bristle. Prepare glaze and glaze the
4. In a cup, combine the citric acid and 4 g pears, quickly wiping off excess. Place on
water and warm in microwave. Bring the top of tart and garnish with Crystallized
syrup to a boil and add the acid solution, Pear.
allowing it to boil for 2 minutes. Pour into
a bowl and add the remaining 200 g water,
then Burr-mix. Keep in cooler overnight
before using.

Pastry Arts 135

 Early Influence
I was raised in a family where we cooked a lot, but
what helped me the most was that my uncle was
a chef in a Michelin-starred restaurant. He gave
me a passion for pastry.

Signature Style
My pastry style is modern, with revisited recipes
and interesting flavors.

Inspiration for New Recipes

My imagination comes from my travels, from
my books, while shopping in supermarkets and
meeting new people.

Current Flavor Favorites

Currently I am testing a lot of citrus – it reduces
Mathias Boirie the sugar in the recipes, and living in Florida we
are lucky to have good quality citrus fruits.
Executive Pastry Chef, Norman Love
Confections, Fort Myers, FL Production Tip
Make simple recipes and processes that anyone
you hire can do, and understand this will optimize
your production while having good quality,
consistent products.

Technical Tip
Since I started pastry, I think the most important
things are organization and communication.
Without those, it is not possible to work
efficiently.

Career Advice
The best advice I received was from someone I
admire, who told me that being a good manager
and leader was the key to success. I see every day
that it is true.

136 Pastry Arts

 IT’S HERE.
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cake artist, chocolatier, or you aspire to be one, this is the perfect virtual
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Recipe

Opéra Cake By Maxime Maniez

138 Pastry Arts

T he Opéra cake is actually
the first dessert I learned
to make when I started
my career as a trainee; it’s
a huge classic of the French dessert
repertoire. Besides the difficulty of
obtaining a perfect regularity with all
the layers, it’s also quite challenging
to have the right balance between
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Biscuit Joconde
1259 g whole eggs
315 g trimoline
534 g granulated sugar
472 g almond powder
534 g heavy cream
534 g T45 flour
32 g baking powder
314 g melted butter, cold
6 g salt
the cream, sponge and syrup, which
is important to achieve a perfect 1. Mix all ingredients together well with an
taste. To do this, we soak the sponge immersion blender.
pretty well in the infused coffee 2. Spread 900 g of the batter onto silicone
baking mat-lined 16ʺ x 24ʺ (40 x 60 cm)
bean syrup to soften it, and then
trays and bake in a vented oven at 338˚F
layer it with a creamy dark chocolate (170˚C) for 9-10 minutes.
ganache and a soft coffee bean
cream with a touch of sea salt, which
really helps bring out all the flavors.
Chocolate Ganache
We finish the cake with chocolate
• 750 g heavy cream
glaze, which gives a textural “crack”
• 
563 g Valrhona Caraïbe 66% dark
to the dessert.
chocolate
Yield: 70 servings • 188 g Valrhona Jivara 40% milk chocolate

1. Heat the cream, then pour slowly onto the

chocolates. Mix well to achieve a good
emulsion.

Whipped Coffee
Bean Ganache
• 
1556 g heavy cream, divided
• 
4 g sea salt
• 
25 g coffee beans
• 
6 g gelatin sheets, bloomed
• 
348 g Valrhona Caramélia 36% milk
chocolate
• 
61 g liquid coffee extract (St. Lucie brand)

Pastry Arts 139

1. In a saucepan, bring 778 g of the cream
to a boil with the sea salt and infuse it Chocolate Opéra Glaze
with the crushed coffee beans for 10
minutes. • 
500 g Cacao Barry brown pâte à glacer
2. Add the bloomed and melted gelatin • 
400 g Valrhona Caraïbes 66% dark chocolate
to the infused cream (rewarm it, if • 
100 g grapeseed oil
necessary), then pass through a fine-
mesh sieve. Pour the infused cream
over the chocolate one-third at a time, 1. Melt the brown pâte à glacer with the
mixing well to create a good emulsion. chocolate and mix well with a whisk. Add
Mix in the remaining 778 g of the cold the oil and whisk well to emulsify. Cover and
cream and the coffee extract. When keep at room temperature.
ready to use, whip the ganache.
Assembly
Coffee Syrup
• 
Valrhona Caraïbe 66% dark chocolate,
• 
1918 g water melted and tempered, as needed
• 
460 g granulated sugar
• 
614 g liquid coffee extract (St. Lucie 1. Cut 5 layers of the Joconde biscuit to fit a
brand) 22.5ʺ x 14.5ʺ x 1.4ʺ-high (57 cm x 37 cm x
• 
8 g gelatin sheets, bloomed 3.5 cm-high) mold. Spread a thin layer of the
melted and tempered dark chocolate over
one of the layers and allow the chocolate to
1. In a saucepan, bring the water and set.
sugar to a boil, then remove from heat
2. Place the chocolate-coated biscuit layer,
and stir in the coffee extract. Stir in the
chocolate side down, in the mold, then imbibe
melted gelatin.
it generously with the cold Coffee Syrup. Top
with 600 g of the Whipped Coffee Ganache,
spreading it into an even layer. Top with
another biscuit layer, pressing it down gently
all over to remove any air bubbles. Imbibe
it generously with more Coffee Syrup. Top
with 600 g of the soft Chocolate Ganache,
spreading it into an even layer. Top with the
last biscuit layer, pressing it down all over
and imbibing it with the Coffee Syrup. Top
with 600 g of the Whipped Coffee Ganache,
spreading it into an even layer. Top with
another biscuit layer, imbibe it, then top with
600 g of the soft Chocolate Ganache. Top
with another biscuit layer and imbibe it. Top
with 600 g of the Whipped Coffee Ganache.
Freeze until set.
3. When the cake is well frozen, unmold the
cake. Glaze with the Chocolate Opéra Glaze.
Slice and serve.

140 Pastry Arts

 Maxime Current Flavor Favorites
I am currently making a watermelon confit in

Maniez olive oil, mint pesto and a mint-chocolate ice

cream. It’s a dish I created for our summer
menu, so I was looking for something very
Executive Pastry Chef,
refreshing, very colorful and very light. Red
Signiel Hotel and STAY and yellow watermelon is a summer fruit and
(one-Michelin-star the olive oil bring some consistency. On the
restaurant) by side, the mint has the particularity to bring a
Yannick Alléno, lot of freshness into the pesto and ice cream,
Seoul, South Korea so the combination is perfect. We’re also
combining a lot of fruits and vegetables (e.g.,
asparagus cream with fresh pink grapefruit,
cherry fermentation, matcha powder; carrot,
Early Influence Amaretto, cardamom and sweet potato ravioli).
Through my work experience I have had the I think customers are always curious and ready
chance to work with amazing chefs who taught to try something new, especially when you
me a lot, especially the proper techniques have the right story to tell.
for making breads and desserts, which was
necessary for getting to the next level and to
cultivate my own creativity. “Learn well the Production Tip
basics and the classics,” was their philosophy. Be patient and try not to rush yourself. We
They also advised me to “never forget where become more skillful and get more experience
I come from,” and to keep things simple, by practicing, looking, learning, asking – all
generous and honest. these things need time. We must pass by failure
to obtain success. For me, two points need to
be in harmony: First, perfect organization is
Signature Style a must if you want to save time and money
I would describe it as ‘gourmand’, efficient, and follow your production and management.
classic, modern, generous, honest and pleasing. Second, good hygiene is essential to create a
comfortable working environment, to make a
Inspiration for New Recipes higher quality product and for doing any task.
I have so many ways to be inspired, for example:
* Going to museums, art galleries and the Technical Tip
countryside to get inspired by artistic To master writing in chocolate on cakes or
masterpieces and by nature. plates, you must practice about 5 minutes
* I draw and paint very often to find my own every day. Use a cornet and find your own
inspiration and creation. letting style and design. Inspire yourself with
different types of calligraphy. Also, a perfect
* Meeting friends, sharing stories, visiting
melted and tempered chocolate is necessary
cafés, looking at the architecture.
for proper writing.
* Traveling, trying local foods.
Inspiration is everywhere around us. In general,
when I got an idea, I first think of all the
Career Advice
ingredients and products that I’m going to use “We are apprentices all our life – every day we
and combine for my creation, then I draw it in learn new things from someone.”
my book, always, to give me a first sketch of it. “Always put yourself in the customer’s shoes.”
After that, I start to do testing. (To better understand their expectations.)

Pastry Arts 141

Recipe

‘Cocoanut’ By Nitin Bali

142 Pastry Arts

T ‘Cocoanut’ is the perfect dessert for coconut lovers. While Chicago
does not grow coconuts, I want guests to travel to Travelle at
The Langham to experience this indulgent dessert. I decided to
serve our guests my version of coconut, a very refreshing dessert
made with coconut puree. The pineapple sorbet, along with a
passion fruit coulis, adds tropical flavor. I also use kiwi and mango
marinated with fresh mint. This dessert reminds me of a dream
vacation on a tropical island.

Coconut Shell Tropical Fruit

• 
600 g dark chocolate • 
1 whole mango
• 
3 whole kiwis
1. Melt the chocolate to 122˚F (50˚C). Cool • 
10 g fresh mint
down to 80˚F (27˚C). Bring up to 88˚F (31˚C).
2. Once the chocolate reaches the working 1. Peel and dice the mango and kiwi.
temperature, cast a half sphere mold with 2. Finely chop the mint leaves. Mix all of
chocolate. Let it set. the ingredients gently and store cold.

Coconut Mousse Pineapple Sorbet

• 
800 g Boiron Coconut Puree • 
450 g water
• 
100 g granulated sugar • 
240 g granulated sugar
• 
10 gelatin sheets • 
180 g powdered glucose
• 
100 g Malibu Rum • 
34 g trimoline
• 
600 g heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks • 
5 g sorbet stabilizer
• 
1000 g Boiron Pineapple Puree
1. In a bowl, heat the puree with the sugar on low
heat. 1. In a saucepan, heat the water and sugar.
2. Soak the gelatin in ice cold water. Bring it to boil and add the remaining
3. Once the coconut puree is warm, remove from ingredients, except the puree. Once the
heat add the gelatin sheets. Mix well until mixture is boiling, pour it on the puree
it’s dissolved. Add Malibu rum followed by and burr mix it well. Store it overnight in
whipped cream. the refrigerator.
4. Pour in the chocolate shell and refrigerate for 2. Spin the next day and store in freezer
6 hours. until ready to use.

Pastry Arts 143

 • 
5 g cornstarch
Almond Coconut Soil • 
2 g lemon juice

• 400 g all-purpose flour 1. Bring the puree to a boil. Add the sugar and
• Pinch of baking powder cornstarch-lemon juice slurry mix and cook
• 240 g shredded unsweetened coconut over medium heat until thickened. Strain
• 50 g almond flour through chinois and cool it down over ice
bath.
• 240 g light brown sugar
• 40 g liquid eggs
• 100 g unsalted butter, melted Assembly

1. In electric mixer fitted with the paddle, mix • Small cubes of mango, kiwi and pineapple
together the flour, baking powder, coconut, •  Micro mint leaves
almond flour and brown sugar. Add the eggs
and melted butter and mix well.
1. Make two overlapping rings (about 4ʺ/10.16
2. Bake at 350˚F (180˚C) until golden brown. cm in diameter) of Passion Coulis on plate.
Cool and store in an airtight container until Add 2 tablespoons of Coconut almond
ready to use. soil in the very center of coulis. Place the
coconut in the center, tilted towards front.
Add some of tropical fruit cubes in the
Passion Coulis center and some over the coulis.
2. Scoop the pineapple sorbet and place it on
• 
250 g Boiron Passion Fruit Puree left side of cocoanut. Place micro mint in
• 
20 g granulated sugar the center of Cocoanut.

144 Pastry Arts

 Signature Style
My style is modern classical. Pastry programs
were well in place as far back as the 13th
century. However, all those creations are now
being used as the base and adding modern
touches gives a different look to meet the
current trend and demand.

Inspiration for New Recipes

My work is very much inspired by nature and
seasonal flavors. There are lots of flavors
and combinations available to play with. My
favorite, however, is using a dark chocolate
and fruit flavor combination. Dark chocolate
balances wells with fruit acidity and sugar. In
my opinion, the shape of a final product is as
important as flavor.

Current Flavor Favorites

I am currently testing white chocolate with
dried truffle. I believe dried truffle has this
perfect strong flavor which blends well with
white chocolate. This combination is for my
personal curiosity, but once I successfully
master it, I will definitely introduce this on our
restaurant menu.
Nitin Bali
Production Tip
Pastry Chef, Travelle at
The Langham, Chicago, IL Staying organized and clean is very important
to run a successful operation. My chef used to
tell me, “If you have time to lean, you have time
to clean.” So, there was no excuse but to keep
the kitchen clean and organized all the time
Early Influence during the busy operation.
Spending my childhood in the kitchen with my
mom has played a major role in my professional Technical Tip
life and career. My mother is a great home
Emulsion is very important while making
cook and always wanted me to master the art
ganache. Ganache can be as simple as three
of dessert, but never knew that I would pursue
ingredients, but the right emulsion gives texture
this as a career. After finishing my pastry degree
and shine to the product. It’s very important to
from Long Beach City College, I was able to
not add air bubbles while emulsifying.
start at one of the luxury hotels in Los Angeles
where my then pastry chef, Adina Schaffer,
taught me her secrets. Mastering desserts Career Advice
is always going to be an ongoing pursuit, but The best advice I received from my mentor,
learning and growing is what has brought me and a saying I try my best to live up to every
to where I am. day, is, “Do it nice, or do it twice.”

Pastry Arts 145

Recipe

Carrot Halwa
with Carrot Cake,
Roasted Pineapple,
Ginger Frozen Yogurt,
and Carrot Jus
By Grayson Claes

146 Pastry Arts

T
2. Bake on a half sheet tray at 325˚F (163˚C)
for 10-15 minutes, until the cake is golden
brown and springs back when lightly
touched. Let cool.

Carrot Halwa
his dessert
exemplifies the • 50 g honey
style of Sona, an
• 250 g grated red carrots
Indian restaurant
in NYC. I wanted to create a dish • 23 g unsalted butter
that combined American carrot cake • 25 g ghee
with carrot halwa, along with Indian • 200 g whole milk
flavors and ingredients such as ginger • 2 g salt
and yogurt.
Makes about 20 servings 1. In a large saucepan, caramelize the honey
to an amber color.
2. Add the grated carrots, butter and ghee
and cook over medium-low heat until
carrots are softened. Once cooked down,
add the milk in 4 increments, cooking until
nearly dry after each addition. After last
addition has cooked until almost dry, stir in
Carrot Cake the salt and let cool in ice bath. Store in pint
containers.
• 75 g whole eggs
• 225 g granulated sugar Roasted Pineapple
• 50 g extra-virgin olive oil
• 102 g grapeseed oil • 1 pineapple, peeled, cored and sliced
• 113 g carrot purée • 100 g jaggery sugar
• 2 g ground cinnamon • 125 g unsalted butter
• 2 g ground ginger • 1 vanilla bean
• 5 g salt • 10 g lime juice
• 170 g all-purpose flour • Zest of 1 lime
• 5 g baking soda
• 500 g grated carrots 1. Heat everything in a pot until the sugar is
dissolved.
1. In an electric mixer fitted with the whisk 2. Add pineapple to a sous vide bag and
attachment, mix together the eggs, sugar, compress. Pour into half hotel pan with
oils, purée, spices and salt until blended. juices and roast at 325˚F (163˚C), basting
Mix the flour and baking soda together, every 15 minutes until golden brown, but
then add to the batter, mixing just until not burnt. Let cool at room temperature.
blended. Fold in the grated carrots. Store in large to-go containers.

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 Pistachio Crumb Carrot Jus
• 1500 g carrot juice
• 250 g unsalted butter, cubed and cold
• 200 g granulated sugar
• 125 g light brown sugar
• 190 g heavy cream
• 350 g all-purpose flour
• 50 g unsalted butter, cubed
• 200 g chopped pistachios
• 2 g salt
• 8 g salt
1. In a saucepan, bring the carrot juice and
1. Place all ingredients in a stand mixer and sugar to a boil. Reduce until the color
mix until crumbly. changes to dark orange. When desired
2. Transfer to parchment-lined sheet pan and color is achieved, add the cream and
bake at 325˚F (163˚C) until golden brown, reduce slightly until sauce-like consistency
stirring occasionally (but still keeping larger is achieved.
chunks). Cool. 2. Whisk in butter and salt. Blend until smooth
and strain. Chill and store in quarts.
Ginger Frozen Yogurt
Assembly
• 63 g fresh ginger
1. Arrange 2 small quenelles of Carrot Halwa
• 187 g water
on the plate, with one pointing at 10:00 and
• 187 g granulated sugar the other pointing at 7:00. In the center,
• 35 g trimoline place a spoonful of Pistachio Crumble (to
• 3 g ice cream stabilizer hold a quenelle of Ginger Frozen Yogurt).
• 63 g glucose syrup Scatter 3 pieces of carrot cake around the
halwa, each in different spots. Place small
• 63 g honey
slices of roasted pineapple alongside the
• 500 g Greek yogurt cake.
• 250 g heavy cream 2. Place a quenelle of Ginger Frozen Yogurt on
• 3 g salt the Pistachio Crumb. Lastly, spoon some
Carrot Jus on each of the carrot cake pieces
1. Chop the ginger into small pieces and put and on the plate.
into blender with water. Blend on high until
ginger is completely broken down. Transfer
to small saucepan. Add sugar, trimoline,
stabilizer and glucose to the ginger mixture
and place over medium-high heat. When
the syrup is at a boil, remove the pot,
reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook for
1 minute. Strain and chill in ice bath.
2. When cool, add honey, yogurt, cream, and
salt. Strain and store in Pacojet beakers.
Freeze until solid and Pacotize. Let freeze
to harden.

148 Pastry Arts

 Current Flavor Favorites
At the moment I am working on a bebinca,
with the main flavors being chocolate
and coffee. When doing R&D for Sona,
Chef Hari Nayak, the chef-owner, showed
me a type of coffee that is consumed
throughout South India. When I tasted this
Grayson Claes madras coffee, it reminded me of the New
Orleans style chicory coffee that I drink
Pastry Chef, every morning, so was excited to learn the
Sona Restaurant, New York, NY correlation.

Early Influence Production Tip

My mentor Richard Rivera was the first pastry chef When making a large volume of pastry
that I worked for when I was 17. He was a hotel cream, bring the milk and sugar to a
pastry chef who served lunch daily to Julia Child in rolling boil and pour it over your liaison
Boston. His attention to detail set him apart and of egg yolks, cornstarch, and salt while
engrained in me a basic foundation and the two whisking constantly. The heat from the
mottos he preached: Clean as you go and use the milk coagulates the eggs and gelatinizes
right tool for the right job. His influence makes the starch without having to bring it back
me strive for uniqueness and respect the classics, on the stove to “activate” the starch, as in
especially now that I am doing Indian cuisine and the traditional method. This makes a very
developing one-of-a-kind desserts. smooth and creamy end-result. I learned
this method from one of my former chef
instructors at the CIA, Francisco Migoya.
Signature Style
My style of pastry really stems from being familiar, Technical Tip
but different. I like abstract plating where it doesn’t When I worked at Eleven Madison Park, I
look calculated, but still looks cohesive. For me, was on the bread station and got a one-
I want to take familiar flavors and dishes and on-one lesson on lamination from the
introduce them in a new, modern way that’s not pastry chef, Mark Welker. He really broke
what you see every day. down the process with me and showed the
importance of every step, especially the
Inspiration for New Recipes aspect of the butter block being in shape
with the dough.
First and foremost, I am inspired by the seasons.
Whether it’s a strawberry in spring or a plum in late
summer, it always makes me excited. From there I ask Best Career Advice
myself how I want to prepare it. At Sona, I incorporate One piece of advice that still resonates
Indian flavors but interpret them through the lens of with me is from my late chef instructor
a modern New York City restaurant. For instance, from the CIA, Dieter Schorner. He would
in my first menu I did a honeycomb ghevar with a say “Never say something can’t be done
chenna cheesecake, because what is New York – if the door is locked, go through the
without cheesecake? (Chenna is a dry Indian cheese window.” It taught me to really roll with the
similar to quest fresco or ricotta.) punches and to think on my feet, to pivot.

Pastry Arts 149

Recipe

Spiced Candy Red

Apple Delice
By Bertie Tanaya

150 Pastry Arts

I always start my
creative ideas
by assessing the
availability of fruits and cheese
that I can source from local
producers and farms. I like to
combine sweet, sour, savory
and spice flavors in my desserts,
especially during the fall and
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
4 g salt
Sablé Breton
320 g unsalted butter, softened
320 g granulated sugar

160 g egg yolks

450 g pastry flour
12 g baking powder
2 g ground cinnamon
1 g ground ginger
1 g grated nutmeg
winter seasons. With this cake, • 1 g ground cloves
I was inspired by the fall fair
that I miss so much, so I tried to
replicate the flavors of a candy 1. Arrange two 7ʺ (17.75 cm) French tart rings and
two 2ʺ (5 cm) ring molds on a sheet pan. Spray
apple using my favorite spices,
interior of all molds with oil; set aside.
goat cheese and fall and winter
fruits. 2. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,
cream together the butter, sugar and salt. Gradually
add the egg yolks, scraping down the sides of the
Yield: two 7ʺ (17.75 cm) cakes bowl as necessary and mixing until well blended.
3. Sift together the flour, baking powder and spices
and add to the butter mixture, mixing just until
blended. Pat into a square on a plastic tray and
wrap in plastic. Chill thoroughly.
4. Roll dough out to a thickness of 0.4ʺ (1 cm). Cut
out two 7ʺ (17.75 cm) rounds and two 2ʺ (5 cm)
rounds. Place the rounds in the tart rings and ring
molds. Bake at 350˚F (180˚C) for 10-15 minutes.
Cool and unmold.

Roasted Pistachio Paste

• Shelled pistachios, as needed
• Pure grapeseed oil, as needed

1. Roast the pistachios until fragrant. Cool completely.

2. Process in food processor until the nuts begin
to release their oil. Add a little grapeseed oil and
process until the paste is very smooth. Store in an
airtight container for up to a month.

Pastry Arts 151

 Pistachio Orange Blossom
Macaroon Sponge
• 270 g marzipan
• 75 g heavy cream 35%
• 60 g roasted pistachio paste
• 300 g egg whites
• Pinch of cream of tartar
• 120 g granulated sugar
• 3 g orange blossom water

1. Soften the marzipan with the heavy cream.

Heat the mixture to 104˚F (40°C). Whisk in
the pistachio paste.
2. Whip the egg whites with cream of tartar
to soft peaks. Add the sugar in 3 additions
and whip it to firm peaks. Fold into the
marzipan mixture along with the orange
blossom water.
3. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. cranberries. Stir the mixture until well
Using a pastry bag fitted with a medium mixed, then pour it into the plastic wrap-
plain tip, pipe two 6ʺ (15.24 cm) disks. lined molds (one 6ʺ/15.24 cm tubular ring
Bake at 350˚F (180˚C) for 8 minutes. Cool, shape for inside each cake and one 1.8ʺ
then dust with confectioners’ sugar. Freeze /4.5 cm tubular ring shape for inside each
until ready to use. red apple). Freeze until set.

Cranberry Orange Insert Spiced Apple Compote Insert

• 4 g gelatin sheets • 300 g apples

• 330 g cranberry puree • 40 g granulated sugar, divided
• 40 g granulated sugar • ½ cinnamon stick
• Finely grated zest of 1 orange • 100 g green apple puree
• 50 g dried cranberries, chopped • 2 g ground cinnamon
• 1 g ground ginger
1. Soften the gelatin sheets in ice-cold water. • 2 gelatin sheets, softened
2. Combine ¼ of the cranberry puree with
the sugar in a saucepan. Bring it to 140˚F 1. Peel, core and cut apples into small cubes.
(60°C). Stir the sugar until it dissolves. Add 2. In a small pot, combine the apple cubes,
the softened gelatin. Stir it until all the 25 g of the sugar, and the cinnamon stick.
gelatin has dissolved. Cook on medium heat for 20 minutes, or
3. Pour the warm mixture into the remaining until cooked through. Remove cinnamon
cranberry puree, orange zest and dried stick.

152 Pastry Arts

3. Combine the green apple puree, ground • 24 g glucose
cinnamon, ground ginger and remaining • 10 g pectin
15 g sugar in saucepan. Bring it to 140˚F • 265 g frozen cranberries
(60°C), stirring until the sugar dissolves.
Add the softened gelatin. Stir until the • Finely grated zest and juice of 1 orange
gelatin is completely melted. Pour the warm
mixture into the cool apple compote. Stir 1. Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan
until well blended, then pour it into desired and bring it to 122˚F (50°C). Add the glucose
molds or prepared pan that has been lined and pectin and stir until all the sugar and
with plastic wrap (one 5ʺ/12.7 cm round pectin are dissolved. Bring the mixture to
for inside each cake and one 1.8ʺ/4.5 cm the boil and bring to 221˚F (105˚C).
round for inside each red apple). Freeze 2. Add the cranberries, orange juice and zest
until set. to the syrup. Simmer over low heat until the
cranberries are tender, about 15 minutes.
Transfer it into a container and cover it right
Cranberry Compote away to prevent a skin from forming. Cool
it down and set aside until ready to use.
• 224 g granulated sugar
• 30 g water

Pastry Arts 153

 • 1.5 g ground cardamom
Italian Meringue • 200 g goat cheese
• 400 g heavy cream 35%
• 180 g granulated sugar
• 240 g Italian Meringue (from above)
• 60 g water
• 90 g gg whites
1. Soften the gelatin in ice cold water.
• Pinch of cream of tartar
2. In a bowl, combine the apple puree, lemon
zest, ground cardamom and goat cheese.
1. Bring the sugar and water to a boil over Place it over a saucepan of simmering
medium heat. water and heat to between 113-122˚F (45-
2. Place the egg whites and cream of tartar in 50˚C). Add the gelatin to the mixture, and
the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the stir until dissolved. Cool.
whisk attachment. When the sugar syrup 3. Whip the cream to soft peaks.
reaches 230˚F (110˚C), begin whipping 4. Fold the Italian meringue in into the lemon
the whites on medium speed until frothy. mixture one-third at a time. Fold in the
Continue whipping at medium speed until whipped cream.
the whites form soft peaks. When the syrup
reaches 240˚F (116˚C), slowly add it to the
whites while whipping at medium speed. Caramel Candy Red
Increase the speed to high and whip to stiff Mirror Glaze
peaks, then reduce the speed to medium
and continue to whip until completely cool.
• 226 g white chocolate
• 150 g condensed milk
Cardamom Goat Cheese • 14 g gelatin sheets
Apple Parfait • 203 g water, divided
• 226 g granulated sugar
• 10 g gelatin sheets • 226 g glucose
• 100 g apple puree • Super red food coloring, as needed
• 2 g lemon zest • Edible gold dust, as needed

154 Pastry Arts

1. Combine the chocolate and condensed 2. Fill the prepared ring molds 1/4 way with
milk in a 1-liter container and set aside. the Cardamom Apple Goat Cheese Parfait.
2. Place the gelatin and 90 g of the water in a Place the Spiced Apple Compote Insert on
bowl to soak for 5 minutes, then place the top. Pipe more parfait to cover the compote,
bowl over a double boiler to melt (melt the and make sure to pipe around the outside,
gelatin with the water – do not drain gelatin). as well. Use the small offset palette knife to
3. In a saucepan, bring the remaining 113 g of make a smooth layer.
the water, the sugar and glucose to a boil 3. Place the Cranberry Ring Insert on top,
over high heat. Remove immediately and making sure it is centered. Pipe more
pour over the chocolate and condensed parfait to cover the compote and around
milk, along with the gelatin mass. Use an the perimeter. Use a small offset palette
immersion blender to emulsify the mixture, knife to smooth the layer.
making sure not to incorporate air. Add the 4. Place the frozen Pistachio Orange Blossom
red coloring and blend. Place plastic directly Macaroon sponge on top, then press and
on the surface and refrigerate overnight. twist it gently. Make sure the parfait comes
4. The next day, heat the glaze to 88˚F (31˚C) up slightly (about 0.5 cm). Use the offset
and use an immersion blender to crystallize, palette knife to make sure the parfait and
being careful not to incorporate air. Strain the sponge are level. Freeze until firm in
and use on prepared cakes. blast freezer.
5. For the two apple-shaped Delice, repeat
the previous steps, piping the parfait evenly
Red Velvet Spray inside and around the perimeter of the
sphere molds. Arrange the inserts on top.
• 100 g red cocoa butter Place a 1ʺ (2.5 cm) round of the Pistachio
• 200 g white chocolate Macaroon Sponge in the center and press it
gently. Freeze until firm in blast freezer.
• Red powdered food coloring, as needed

1. Melt together the cocoa butter and white

chocolate and add some red food coloring
to achieve the desired color. Place in a
sprayer.

Assembly
• Chocolate leaves, brushed with edible gold
dust (various sizes)
• Apple stem (2 cm) made from 54% dark
chocolate
• Dark chocolate ring, brushed with edible
gold dust

1. Line the bottom of two 7ʺ (17.75 cm) ring

molds tightly with plastic wrap and line the
molds with acetate strips. Do the same for
the sphere molds for the apple shape.

Pastry Arts 155

 Finishing
1. Spread a thin layer of Cranberry Compote
on the two 7ʺ (17.75 cm) rounds and two
2ʺ (5 cm) rounds of Sablé Breton. Unmold
the frozen apple-shaped Delice and place it
on the small Sablé Breton. Place it back in
the blast freezer.
2. Pull out the 7ʺ (17.75 cm) Delice and
unmold it from the ring. Remove the
acetate. Place it on a slightly smaller ring
and return it to the blast freezer while
waiting for the glaze to reach the proper
temperature and consistency. The glaze
should be at 88˚F (31°C) and should coat
the back of a spoon. Glaze the 7ʺ (17.75
CM) Delice using a ladle. Make sure the
cake is evenly coated on its top and side.
Very quickly use a palette knife to remove
excess glaze from the top. Place the Delice
back in the freezer for 10 to 15 minutes
until the glaze is set.
3. Place the 7ʺ (17.75 cm) Delice carefully on
top of 7ʺ (17.75 cm) sablé.
4. Prepare the Red Velvet Spray mixture.
Make sure to warm up the spray gun ahead
of time (this can be hours prior to spraying).
When the mixture is ready, spray the apple
shaped dessert with the mixture, coating it
evenly. Place in blast freezer for 5 minutes.
5. Pull out the 7ʺ (17.75 cm) Delice and the
apple-shaped Delice from the blast freezer.
Place the apple-shaped Delice on top of the
7ʺ (17.75 cm) Delice, centering it. Place the
apple stem on the Delice. Place the chocolate
ring on top of the 7ʺ (17.75 cm) Delice and
around the apple-shaped Delice. Place a
large leaf on the Delice. Place the Delice
on a wood serving platter in the shape of
tree bark. Place the medium and small size
leaves on the serving platter. Arrange the
leaves as naturally as possible to resemble
fallen leaves.

Photos by Chris Braun

156 Pastry Arts

 Bertie Tanaya
Baking & Pastry Arts Professor,
Conestoga College, Kitchener,
Ontario, Canada

Production Tip
The glazing process has been one of the
challenges for petit gateau production in many
Early Influence of the kitchens I have managed, because it can
be inconsistent and high-cost due to product
I was influenced by my fear of baking and
waste. Then we changed the technique from
pastry in general, because it is so scientific.
pouring or piping the glaze to dipping the petit
Then everything changed when I entered the
gateau into the glaze. The result has been very
Baking & Pastry program at Conestoga. I really
consistent in quality, has cut down the time we
enjoyed it when I started learning the proper
spend on glazing by almost 35% to 40%, and
techniques, and my creative ideas have been
incurs less waste, because we use less glaze.
non-stop ever since. I became disciplined,
The temperature of the glaze needs to be right
precise, consistent and creative.
to ensure quality, and the petit gateau must be
completely frozen solid prior to dipping. Also,
Signature Style the timing from product pull-out from the blast
My pastry style is French, because all my chiller to dipping is very crucial in order to avoid
training has been with French pastry chefs. condensation that can cause the glaze to slide
off the cake.
Inspiration for New Recipes
My inspiration comes from the local farmers Technical Tip
and producers in the area where I live. There It’s important to do research on the availability
are so many fruits farms, apiaries (I get the most of seasonal produce, and to make sure you
flavorful wildflower honey from the Niagara have the proper tools and equipment to create
region) and cheese makers. Also, I love to use your dessert. For example, without the use
spices in my desserts, especially during the of a blast freezer, production for my featured
fall-winter season, and use fresh herbs during recipe would take much longer, and could have
spring and summer. a quality issue if that product was not properly
set.
Current Flavor Favorites
Lately I have been combining Middle Eastern Career Advice
flavors with local cheeses in my desserts. I My mentor always advised me: Keep moving
love the combination of cheese with orange towards your dream goal and see where you
blossom, honey, cardamom and sesame – it’s want to be. Don’t give up, try to stay calm, and
magical. there will always be a solution to everything.

Pastry Arts 157

Places

L’Artisane
Creative Bakery
Coral Gables, FL
www.lartisanebakery.com

158 Pastry Arts

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Carolina and Equipment ‘Must-Haves’
We rely on technology; our Multifresh unit from
Jonathan Molea Irinox allows us to program the proofing of our
OwnerS croissants overnight, delivering consistent results
without fail. We no longer need an overnight baker
to proof our viennoisserie. Our team arrives at 5:30
Company Mission am to ensure that the entire production is ready to
be baked, and never over-proofed. This is due to
L’Artisane’s mission is to provide world class
the cabinet’s helpful holding feature, which ensures
vegan viennoisserie, desserts, and brunch in
that they will remain at the correct temperature for
a sophisticated, modern atmosphere – one
hours. This small, but advantageous change has
in which customer service and attention to
detail are paramount. Our offerings are not allowed us to save more than 1,500 man hours in a
only delicious, but good for the well-being of year. Another crucial piece of equipment is a good
our planet and the animals. refrigerated storage area, since a beneficent way to
escalate your business is by having enough space to
store and freeze your production. When designing
Signature Products your kitchen, it is important to be conscious of
We are well known for our wide selection where you want your business to be a year from
of vegan viennoisserie that showcases more now, five years from now, and so on. This will allow
than 12 different mouthwatering croissants you to have the opportunity to invest in equipment
and Danishes, as well as our All-Day Brunch that will help you get there, and henceforth achieve
menu that features our award-winning your goals.
croissant in various savory presentations.
After winning “Best Croissant Miami” in Secret of Success
2019, we have grown a loyal community of
croissant lovers, many of whom continue to We are unapologetically vegan! Six years ago, it
support us and come back for our innovative was almost delusional to open a French vegan
take on this traditional French staple, the bakery, the first one of its kind. Despite this,
vegan way. we believed in our dream, and made it real. Our
motivation is so strong that it has allowed us stay
afloat during the most daring of times. We have
Production Tip proved that it is possible to offer world-class
Working with laminated dough in a hot viennoisserie and desserts, without the use of
and humid environment is not an easy task, animal derived products, and this is the future!
something which we have learned while Climate reports keep warning about the need to
working with delicate products in the warm change our consuming habits, and it is therefore
Miami weather. The temperature of the our responsibility to offer options to our clients
détrempe during the lamination process has that will positively impact our planet’s future.
proven to be crucial, so in order to ensure
that it will remain the same throughout
the entire process, we use our Multifresh
Future Goals
by Irinox to lower the temperature of our L’Artisane has a bright future ahead, and we
patons to 0 degrees Celsius, and maintain it are working on expanding our current location
unaltered. This ensures that we not only work and including new and exciting products to
efficiently, but effectively, and guarantees a our offering. We broke the mold, and now the
consistent product every time. possibilities are endless!

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Places

Mrs. Joy’s
Absolutely
Fabulous Treats
Lynchburg, VA
www.mrsjoys.com
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 it’s too tough for donuts. We started using the
excess dough to make cinnamon rolls, which
have become one of our best sellers. Any extra
scraps, cinnamon and sugar, or flour left on the
table is combined to make fruit fritters. We use
EVERYTHING!

Equipment ‘Must-Haves’
I can’t live without my 30-quart Hobart. We
have two 20-quart Hobarts, but the 30-quart we
use every single morning for dough. It powers
through everything (especially cold butter), and
mixes everything beautifully. It is important to
have a good mixer that mixes thoroughly. I also
have a commercial immersion blender, which is
a time saver for sure. We use it to make glazes,
puree fruits, make sauces, make quick work of
ganache, and so much more. Without it, we’d
have to pull out the blender or food processor
which are waaaay harder to clean.

Secret of Success
I don’t really worry about what everyone else
Tarsha Joyner is doing. I focus on my business and how to
do better than what I did yesterday. It’s hard
Owner to focus on your business when you are always
looking at everyone else. Our main concern
is our treat-seekers – figuring out what they
Company Mission want. When you find that out, don’t deviate
We provide high quality treats that taste as from it. They will let you know, you just have
absolutely fabulous as they look! to listen. Just remember you can only do what
you can do, so don’t listen to everything. Don’t
try to jump on every trend. Most are fleeting,
Signature Products THANK GOD!
The Big as Yo Head Cinnamon Rolls bring
customers in every day; our glazed donuts are
legendary; and our signature candy bar, The Future Goals
Peanut Butter Thumb, tastes like a Butterfinger, We recently started selling The Big AF Cookie
but better. nationwide, exclusively online. (‘AF’ stands for
‘Absolutely Fabulous’, of course.) We make the
best cookies! And we think the world should
Production Tip know. Over the holidays we add items like
We used to just make donuts with our donut caramels, our signature candy bar called the
dough, but we had lots of scraps to throw away Peanut Butter Thumb, toffee, brittles, and
– you can only roll donut dough once. After that, millionaires’ shortbread.

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Places

Marble
Dessert Dining
New York, NY
www.mmarbledessertbar.com

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Mauro Pompili
and Maya
Sittisuntorn
Owners
Company Mission
To offer an experience focusing on fine-dining
in which dessert doesn’t have to be typical
by using mainly fresh and seasonal or usual
ingredient combinations, including a play on
savory- sweet. Dessert can be its own highlight
and is not always a second thought.

Signature Products
A ‘Dessert Dining Experience’ at our chefs’
counter. Our ‘Tasting Experience’ highlights
seasonal – both local and unusual – ingredients
in an intimate setting where guests can see
each dish being put together right in front of a machine on and it’s done when the timer goes
them. They are able to converse and interact off. We pay close attention to how ingredients
directly with the chefs. Our guests also come change in color, shape, and smell as we work on
to us for our exclusive made-to-order whole them. The spoon becomes an extension of our
cakes, which are available for our VIPs (with hands to work directly with those ingredients.
limited availability for other guests). It is what we use from weighing out ingredients
to finishing a perfectly composed dish.
Production Tip
Having an organized and solid base. No matter Secret of Success
which level of preparation is being executed, Perseverance and constancy. Being able to offer
for us, we slow down to speed up. If the set-up something our guests can rely on, regardless of
and the basic base is not right, the end product the difficulty on the back end. Our guests know
will not be correct, let alone high quality. If that they can count on us for quality and care.
something is not up to quality or not right, it
becomes wasteful, therefore, doing it right the
first time is the best way to prevent additional Future Goals
cost on both ingredients, time, and labor. There will be a few upgrades to the current
Marble, as well as an expansion in Asia that is
on hold because of the pandemic. We are also
Equipment ‘Must-Haves’ working on something based online, where our
The spoon! Everything we do here at Marble guests can order a little piece of Marble to be
requires a lot of attention. It is not just turning delivered to them nationwide. Stay tuned!

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Places

Wicked Donuts
Las Vegas, NV
www.wicked-donuts.com

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Robert Teddy
Owner
Company Mission
look and feel of the donut. However, the filling
Hand-crafted donuts that are just a step to machine is used the most and is preferred since
the left and incorporate the freshest, best- it can fill a donut more than three times as fast
quality ingredients, made in Las Vegas, NV. The as manually filled.
“wicked” universe is rockabilly Americana with
an emphasis on the retro vibe of Vegas: the
music, the glitz, the indulgence, Area 51 aliens, Equipment ‘Must-Haves’
atomic testing, the fun and bizarre. All of our donuts are made by hand from start
to finish, though we do use a dough sheeter for
consistency of donut thickness. At first some
Signature Products
of our bakers were resistant, but eventually
The Cereal Bowl Donut™ creation is by far the came around to the fact that it sped up their
most fun “Willy Wonka” experience, where you workflow and kept the donuts consistent. Now
can pour milk into the donut filled with cereal they can’t work without it. This also helps to
without the donut becoming soggy, eat the further control costs.
cereal and drink the milk, eat the donut, then
eat the spoon! The My Favorite Martian™ is
another delightful creation, slathered with a Secret of Success
green matcha maple icing, filled with strawberry There are two things we see as an edge for
compote in the center, dappled with freeze- Wicked Donuts. The first is the high level of
dried strawberry pieces and drizzled with white creativity, where many of our customers seek
chocolate. For our recent one-year anniversary, out donuts that are different from the rest.
we created several Hawaiian tropical donuts: There is a place for all levels of donuts, but
Piña Colada (alcohol infused), Mai Tai (alcohol constantly producing new flavors, designs and
infused), Hawaiian POG, LiMango, Pineapple concepts does give the marketing advantage
Fritter and Guava Cheesecake. And of course to any shop. The other is having a face for the
the Blue Suede Banana™ is always in demand, brand. Chef Teddy uses his celebrity and Food
with its peanut butter & banana filling, chocolate Network appearances to help keep Wicked
icing, toasted banana slices and the classic Blue Donuts in the local news and online media
Suede swirl…a perfect nod to Elvis. without a lot of marketing expense. This is
definitely a win.
Production Tip
There are two ways to fill a donut shell: on Future Goals
the side and the top. The side fills the donut Expansion is always on our minds, due to
completely and can be done manually or by a continual requests for greater accessibility in
filling machine. The top fill is called a bullseye, Las Vegas and around the country. Customers
where the top circle is either pulled out or trust our product to continually move forward
pushed in, allowing filling to be place in the with fun and new surprises. And so we plan to
center hole. This is a manual process. We use keep everything moving forward like a rocket
both approaches depending on the intended to the moon, and perhaps even Mars.

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Places

Holler Treats Portland, OR

www.hollertreatspdx.com

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Danielle Bailey the top. We can check the progress of the ice
cream as well as stir in the additions (such as
Executive chocolate chips or brownie bits) right in the
machine, ensuring even distribution. Plus, it
Pastry Chef is a breeze to clean! Another tool that I love
is our blast chiller – it allows us to make and
finish ice cream products quickly and create a
Company Mission better finished product. For instance, we can
assemble a full tray of ice cream sandwiches
To create a fun and welcoming shop for guests
and chill it down quickly to hold its shape, then
to create memories and traditions in. We offer slice it while nice and firm to get straight edges.
a wide range of nostalgic treats, from ice cream It is a lot of fun and really helpful for playing
and cake to coffee, pie and cookies, and hope around with different molded and shaped ice
to become a destination for celebrations or just cream treats, such as drumsticks and ice cream
sweet cravings. cakes.
Signature Products Secret of Success
Ice cream scoops and party cakes! We are Cheery decor! When you walk into Treats,
hoping to become the neighborhood’s go-to you are met with a full shop mural of colorful
after school stop for scoops, ice cream floats characters, an oversized chandelier, retro decor
or cookies. Party cakes to go or by the slice are and plants! It is a very memorable and fun
becoming a guest favorite and we rotate the space and is hard not to feel joyful in. We also
slice flavors daily. We have a full espresso bar offer a growing selection of party merchandise
featuring the amazing GOOD Coffee roasted and greeting cards. The idea is you can stop
beans to pair with breakfast pastries and in, pick up a party cake (don’t forget the ice
kolaches, baked fresh daily. cream!) and grab all the candles, cake toppers
and party napkins you need. Our treats are
Production Tip inspired by old familiar classics. We make the
Most cut-out items we produce are cut into cakes, pies, ice cream, and cookies that you
rectangles or squares rather than circles. This know from childhood, but do it with a fun twist
creates less waste per tray, because only a and high quality ingredients. Guests can stop in
small amount of each edge is unusable rather for a slice of funfetti cake and a shirley temple
than the space between each circle. We use float (lime sorbet, house- made grenadine and
a double handled “cheese” knife and ruler ginger beer), and take a house-made drumstick
to accurately cut lemon bars and ice cream home for later.
sandwiches into many rectangles or squares.
The edges of many items are saved and stirred Future Goals
into ice cream specials, as well. Kids’ birthday party buyouts. Our sister
restaurant next door connects to us through an
Equipment ‘Must-Haves’ arcade. We hope to swing aside the lockers that
Our ice cream machine is a really important tool separate us and have the entire space available
in the bakery. It has a large, two-gallon capacity, for rent. Parties could include birthday cakes,
and will freeze a batch in nine minutes. It allows root beer floats and scoops of ice cream, plus
us to make many ice cream pints really quickly, we have adult beverages for the chaperones!
saving time and money. A great feature of the
Stoelting machine we have is the clear lid on Photos by Sparkhouse Studios

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 Elevating the art and business
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