Bast Fibers
Section 4.X - Cotton (Gossypium spp.)
Introduction:
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of cotton
plants of the genus Gossypium. The fiber is almost pure cellulose. Under natural conditions, the
cotton bolls will increase the dispersal of the seeds. The plant is a shrub native to tropical and
subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, Africa, and India.
Fiber Source:
The fibers are derived from the seed hair of the cotton plant. These hairs arise from the outer layer
of the seed coat and elongate into fine, hollow tubes. The cotton fibers are mainly composed of
cellulose, with minor amounts of waxes, pectins, proteins, and inorganic substances.
Structure:
Cotton fibers are single-celled seed hairs that are nearly pure cellulose. The fiber's cross-section
shows a kidney-shaped lumen, while the longitudinal section reveals a twisted ribbon-like structure,
giving cotton its characteristic convolutions.
Properties:
- Length: Varies between 16 mm (short staple) and up to 50 mm (long staple)
- Fineness: 12-20 µm
- Tenacity: 3-6 g/den
- Moisture regain: ~8.5%
- Density: 1.54 g/cm³
- Cotton has excellent absorbency and is breathable, making it ideal for garments.
- It is soft, biodegradable, and hypoallergenic.
- It is relatively inelastic and prone to wrinkling.
Chemical Composition:
- Cellulose: 88-96%
- Waxes and fats: 0.5-1%
- Pectins: ~1%
- Proteins: ~1%
- Ash: ~1%
- Moisture content: ~8.5%
Processing:
1. Ginning - Separation of lint from seeds
2. Opening and Cleaning - Loosening of fiber lumps and removal of trash
3. Carding - Fiber individualization and formation of sliver
4. Drawing - Parallelization and doubling of slivers
5. Combing (for fine quality) - Removal of short fibers and further alignment
6. Spinning - Conversion of sliver into yarn
7. Weaving/Knitting - Conversion of yarn into fabric
8. Finishing - Includes scouring, bleaching, dyeing, printing, and chemical finishes
Applications:
Cotton is used extensively in the textile industry to make clothes, household textiles (towels, bed
sheets), industrial textiles (canvas, tents), and medical supplies (gauze, bandages). It is also a raw
material for cellulose-based products like rayon and nitrocellulose.