Pattern 8741

A pattern pack including underpinnings

inspired by early 18th century fashion
- Grand pannier
- Pocket hoops
ABSOLUTE - Petticoat
- Pockets for panniers

Grand Pannier Pocket Hoops

Petticoat Pockets

This pattern is for personal and non-profit use only.

You may not sell an item made from this pattern.

Introduction - 8741 - Page 1

 Pattern Info Finished lengths and widths
may vary slightly

Finished length 78cm

Finished width 132cm

Grand Pannier

Fabric required 2m medium weight woven fabric

Boning required 14m flat spring steel boning

ed
e diiSS Side
Side

Other notions 14m x 25mm tape, 6.5m x 10mm tape

Difficulty

Finished length 60cm

Finished width 100cm

Fabric required 1.5m medium woven fabric

Pocket Hoops

Boning required 4.2m flat spring steel boning

Other notions 4.5m x 25mm tape, 6m x 10mm tape

Difficulty

Finished length 103cm - 120cm

Finished width 336cm

Petticoat

Fabric required Please refer to the pattern instructions

Boning required

Other notions

Difficulty

Finished length 32cm per pocket

Finished width 22cm per pocket

Fabric required 60cm

Pockets

Boning required

Other notions 3m x 12mm bias binding

Difficulty

Introduction - 8741 - Page 2

Helpful Terminology

Some helpful words that you may find when reading

the instructions of this pattern -
Fashion fabric:
The fabric your garment is being made from and will primarily be seen. Woven fabric
Facing:
The fabric that is used to line the inside of the garment to create Warp
a inclosed finish.
Interfacing:
A fusible or sew in fabric that is used to stablise, strengthen or
stiffen areas of fabric. Weft
RIGHT side:

Selvedge
The main side of the fabric and the side that you want to
be seen when the garment is finished.
WRONG side:
The opposite side to the RIGHT side. It may have a Bias
less saturated colour, a rougher texture or maybe the same as the
right side.
Selvedge:
Is the self finished edge of a piece of fabric that doesn’t fray.
Grain: This grid represents the threads
The grain of a fabric is the direction of the warp and weft threads run that make up a woven fabric
as they are woven to create the fabric. The warp threads run parrallel
to the selvedge and is known as the straight of grain.
Bias:
The bias direction of fabric can be found in the exact diagonal to the warp and weft threads.
Seam allowance:
Seam allowance is the extra fabric added to a patten piece as a buffer to prevent the fabric from fraying
away from the sewn seam.
Notches:
Notches are markings on pattern pieces to indicate a information required to complete the garment,
such as lining up pieces to stitch together, darts, pleats and strap placements and many more.
Press:
Using an iron to create crisp seams, darts as well as removing wrinkles in fabric.
Dart:
A dart is used to bring shape to a flat piece of fabric by creating a wedge shape in the fabric.
Edge stitch:
An edge stitch is used to hold back all seam allowances of the seam onto the lining side of fabric to help the
seam edge to become crisp as well as holding the lining to in the inside of the garment.
Stay stitch:
A stay stitch is stitched onto a single layer of fabric at a narrower width, particularly along a curved edge to
stablise the pattern piece from warping at the curve.
Turn out:
Turning out is the act of flipping the piece, frequently to show the RIGHT side of the fabric.
Stitch in the ditch:
Stitching directly along an existing seam from the right side to hide the new stitches.

Introduction - 8741 - Page 3

Stitching Flat Felled Seams

Flat felled seams are utlised for these underpinnings for a few reasons. These types of seams
are very strong which are required to withstand the pressure of hoop bones and they also
effortlessly hide raw edges. Flat felled seams are also fantastic for any hoop or crinoline that
involves boning as the bones will not get caught into seams due to the flat nature of the seam.
There are multiple ways to successfully create a flat felled seam and we have included the
instructions for two methods below in which you can choose to use.

Simple Flat Felled - Great for beginners

1. With RIGHT sides together, stitch a straight line with a seam allowance of 1.5cm.
2. Trim back one layer of the seam allowance to just more than half way.
3. Press the reminding seam allowance’s edge to be flush with the stitch line.
4. Open up the entire seam and press the seam allowance flat onto the fabric, enclosing the raw edges of the
seam allowance. Secure the seam flat with two rows of top stitching as shown.

1 2 3 4

True (lapped) Flat Felled - Strongest

1. Pre-trim back one fabric edge by 0.75cm and offset it from the other fabric edge by 0.75cm.
2. Fold and press over the extended fabric edge to inclose the set back edge within the crease. Top stitch
through all 3 layers to secure.
3. Open up the seam and press the seam allowance over again in the same direction to inclose the remaining raw
edge into the seam allowance. Secure with two rows of top stitching.

1 2 3

Introduction - 8741 - Page 4