Introduction

Cosmetics is an innovative, dynamic science and the result of a great

research, not only in formulation but also in the incorporation of new systems
controlled release and ingredients of great scientific development and activity,
but because of the demands for transparency towards the consumer, for protection of
your health by providing you with safe products, make you highly
regulated and that the legislation must adapt to this pace.
Cosmetic products are regulated in the EU by the Framework Directive.
76/768/EEC which has fully harmonized national legislations for
that cosmetic products can circulate freely in all countries
community.
COSMETICS LEGISLATION
A cosmetic is understood to be any substance or preparation intended to be
in contact with the various external parts of the human body or with the
teeth and oral mucosas, with the exclusive or main purpose of cleaning them,
to perfume them, modify their appearance or correct body odors, or to protect them or
keep them in good condition. These products, listed in Annex 1 (list
illustrative), they should not harm human health when applied in the
normal or foreseeable conditions of use.
Member States shall take all necessary measures to ensure that only
products that meet the requirements of this can be marketed
Directive. The marketing of such products cannot be denied, prohibited or
restrict. However, if a member state finds that a product, although
compliance with the Directive poses a danger to health, may, provisionally,
prohibit or subject to specific conditions the marketing of it in its
territory. In such case, that Member State shall immediately inform the
other member states and the Commission, specifying the reasons that justify
your decision. The Commission will consult with the interested member states and, to
he will issue his opinion without delay and will take the measures
appropriate.
INGREDIENTS/COMPOSITION
This Directive defines the list of substances that cannot enter into the
composition of cosmetic products (annex II) and the list of substances that
these cannot contain outside the limits and conditions provided (annex III).
The Cosmetics Directive also establishes the list of colorants (annex
IV), preservatives (annex VI) and UV filters (annex VII) that may contain the
cosmetic products.
LABELING
The containers or packages must be marked, in indelible characters,
easily readable and visible:
the name or the business name and the address or the registered office of the manufacturer or of

responsible for the marketing of the cosmetic product, established within

from the Community;
the nominal content at the time of product packaging
indicated in weight or in volume;
the expiration date announced by the mention 'Preferably use'
before the end of..." for products that expire before thirty months;
the period of use of cosmetic products without causing harm to
consumer after the opening for products that expire after
thirty months. This information is indicated by a special symbol that
it represents an open jar of cream;
the special precautions for use;
the manufacturing batch number or the reference by which it can be
identify the manufacturing;
the function of the product.
This information must be labeled in the national and/or official language(s) of
each member state.
In addition, the label must include the list of ingredients in descending order.
preceded by the word "ingredients." The fragrant compounds and
aromatics will be referred to only with the word "fragrance" or "aroma".
unless they constitute an important cause of allergic reactions among the
fragrance-sensitive consumers.
INCI NOMENCLATURE
The INCI, International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, is the system that
understand the terminology necessary for ingredient labeling in
personal care products. The names are based on scientific terms
traditional and also in words in English and Latin. It is designed to constitute
a universal language so that the consumer has a complete understanding of what
it is in their cosmetic products. The names are assigned by the Committee
International Nomenclature of Personal Care Products Council.
regulations from many countries adhere to the INCI system to ensure
a coherent identification of cosmetic ingredients. The FDA, for example,
administers the Fair Packaging Labeling Act, through Title 21 CFR 701.3. This
the act adopts the Personal Cosmetics Ingredients Dictionary
CareProducts Council (based on INCI) as the source of the names that are
they will be used for the identification of an ingredient. The European Union also uses
INCI for the labeling of cosmetics, and some other countries like Japan and
Mexico bases its nomenclatures on the translation or transliteration of INCI.
This common nomenclature will allow substances to be identified by the same
denomination in all member states and will result in the
consumers, regardless of the point in the European Union where they have
acquired the cosmetic product, they can easily recognize the substances that
they have been advised to avoid (for example in case of allergy).
Nomenclature of Dyes
For cosmetic colorants, the CI (Colour Index) number must be used.
that the CI automatically becomes the INCI designation of said
ingredients.
The ingredients of hair dyes are named according to their chemical structure.
When chemical names are very complex, a combination of
color/number preceded by the prefix "HC".
Dyes
Definition. A coloring substance is a more or less colored molecule, but capable
to color any type of support: cellulose (paper or fabrics), nylon or polyester (fabrics),
keratin (skin and hair), etc. This property is due to the presence, in the molecule, of
various chemical groups called chromophores (color carriers) associated with others
chemical groups called auxochromes (color-fixers). These chemical groups
they allow the absorption of a part of the visible light.
MODE OF ACTION
The spectrum of visible light is made up of seven colors: red, orange, yellow, green,
blue, indigo and violet, corresponding to each a wavelength band
determined.
The reflection of the mixture of the seven colors produces white light.
Black is due to the absorption of all colors.
The coloring molecule absorbs a part of the visible radiations and the eye perceives the
radiations that have not been absorbed.
Example: an object looks red because only the red color is reflected; all the others
colors have been absorbed.
LEGISLATION
In cosmetics, the use of colorants is restricted. There are lists of colorants
authorized in Europe, the United States, and Japan, in which each substance is
accompanied by the maximum limit concentration of use. All colorants that
those listed here are prohibited.
In Europe, there are four types of lists:
Colorants permitted in all cosmetic products.
2. Colorants permitted in all cosmetic products, except in those that
they apply near the eyes and more specifically in makeup products and
eye makeup removal.
3. Colorants allowed only in cosmetic products that are not intended for
come into contact with the mucous membranes.

4. Colorants permitted only in cosmetic products intended to be applied

in brief contact with the skin.
TYPES OF DYES
Dyes can be classified based on their use.
There are:
1. Water-soluble dyes, synthetic or plant-based, generally in the form of salts.
2. The liposoluble dyes, also called 'fat-soluble', are mainly of origin
synthetic.
3. The pigments, completely insoluble dyes in oil and in water, of origin
synthetic or mineral.
4. The lacquers, also insoluble in oil and water. The lacquers are obtained by fixation.
from a soluble dye on a support made of absorbent white powder
(aluminum, barium or strontium hydroxides).
MAIN TYPES OF PRODUCTS
D Mineral origin dyes
Only one 'water-soluble dye' is authorized: lead acetate, reserved for the
hair coloring.
The rest of the colorants are pigments, particularly oxides (see mineral oxides).
Some are colored:
1. Iron oxides: black, brown, red, and yellow.
2. Chromium oxide: green.
Others are white pigments:
Titanium oxide.
zinc oxide
Complex salts are also found:
Manganese pyrophosphate: violet.
2. Aluminum sulfosilicate: ultramarine blue.
3. Ferric ferricyanide: Prussian blue.
Use. Mineral-based colorants are used in all products of
Makeup, white pigments are mainly used to achieve a matte appearance.
and to dilute the colors.
C Colorants of animal origin
Carmine is the only animal-derived dye that is used today. It comes from
from the pulverization of female Coccus cacti insects. From them, the acid is extracted.
carmine, a soluble substance that is sold in the form of insoluble lacquer, the carmine,
red color.
Use. Mainly in lipsticks and blushes.
Plant-based colorants
Origin. These colorants are extracted from leaves, fruits, wood, or seeds of various
plants.
Carotenoids (carrot and vegetable oil) are yellow fat-soluble colorants.
Chlorophylls (spinach, alfalfa, and nettle) are water-soluble green colorants.
Anthocyanins (currant berries, elderberry, and the skin of black grapes) are colorants.

water-soluble, red in acidic medium and mauve blue in alkaline medium,

Beet red (red beet) is a red colorant, water-soluble, with good
stability (beta-girl).
Indigo is a water-soluble dye, blue in color, and is extracted from the leaves of the
indigo or from madder.
Henna (shrub from North Africa) is a water-soluble red-orange dye.
formed by a naphthoquinone: lawsone.
The walnut husk (leaves and green husk of the walnuts) is a brown dye
blackened based on a naphthoquinone, juglone, water-soluble.
Black dyes are extracted from Campeche wood and Pernambuco wood.
water-soluble.
Alizarin (madder root) is a water-soluble red dye.
Properties. Plant-based dyes tend to be unstable in light; some
they change color depending on the pH.
Usage. They are seldom used in cosmetics, except for henna, indigo, and carotenoids;
they are not subject to any legislation.

Synthetic origin colorants

Synthetic colorants are very numerous. They belong to a dozen of
distinct chemical families.
They are grouped and described in a specialized American dictionary, the Color Index.
Each dye corresponds to a number that allows it to be recognized and identified.
They also have fantasy names, typical of the dyeing industry: blue
patent III, Sudan red, lisamine green, etc.
Properties. These colorants are not always pure. They may contain 'loads.'
colorless, traces of metals and synthesis residues.
Regarding food colorants, the legislation is very strict. The presence of
certain impurities, such as aromatic amines and benzo[a]pyrene, are prohibited, thus
like traces of mercury. The amount of lead, arsenic, and metals is regulated.
specifically and should not exceed very low amounts, on the order of one part per
million (ppm).
As for cosmetic colorants, particularly those that can be applied in
contact with mucous membranes has the same quality requirements as colorants
nutritional.
Synthetic dyes must be stable to light and heat, and be insensitive to the
pH variations.
They must be safe from a tolerance and toxicity standpoint, and not cause
allergic reactions.
The most commonly used synthetic dyes are the following:
1. Azo derivatives: red or yellow.
2. Brominated or iodinated fluoresceins, which are yellow, red, pink dyes
and more or less fluorescent violets.
3. The (such ocian i ñas are green, blue, and violet colorants.
4. The derivatives of triphenylmethane are green and brown dyes.
Usage. Synthetic dyes can be water-soluble, fat-soluble, pigments or
lacquer.
Water-soluble substances are used in lotions, shampoos, and in some soaps and emulsions.
Lipid-soluble dyes are used in soaps, oils, perfumes, sun products and
lipstick.
Pigments are used in makeup products.
Lacquers are primarily used in lipsticks and, on some occasions, for
slightly color the emulsions.

Oxidative Dyes
Definition. Oxidation colorants are used as colorants for hair fibers and are
formed at the time of its employment by oxidation of certain arylamines. The small
ominous molecule penetrates the cuticle of the cortex to form a macromolecule
dye, which I cannot extract and gives a permanent stain.
Origin. Synthetic (see amine function).
The arylamines are mainly para-phenylenediamine (PFDA) and para-toluylenediamine.
(PTDA).
They are associated with -couplers- that modify the coloration, such as aminophenols or
nitrophenols.
They are rusted by hydrogen peroxide in the presence of ammonia.
Properties. Oxidation dyes have a very wide range of colors that
goes from light blue to black depending on the concentration of the amine base and of the
nature of the coupler.
They solidly attach to the keratin.
Use. In hair dyes and color shampoos.
Its use is closely regulated. Authorized products are registered.
in a positive list indicating the limits of the concentration of use and the
usage recommendations. They are generally prohibited for staining of
eyelashes and eyebrows.

The diamines PEDA and PTDA can cause very unpleasant allergic reactions, such as
eczema or hives, on any part of the body. These reactions can appear
in its first application or after years of using them.
NACARANTES
The pearlescent is a physical phenomenon of absorption, diffraction, and differential reflection to

to shine light on crystalline solid particles.

Origin:
1. Natural origin. The first pearlescent agent used was of natural origin. It was about
a suspension of scales from small fish, which was originally intended for the
manufacturing of artificial pearls. Currently, a similar suspension is used.
called "essence of the East."
2. Mineral origin. They are micatitanates and bismuth oxychloride.

a) The micatitans are formed by mica particles (silicates) coated

of a more or less thick layer of titanium oxide. A dispersion is produced and a
selective reflection of light, as part of the radiation is absorbed by the layer of
oxide, resulting in a pearlescent effect and iridescent colors of the particle.
b) Bismuth oxychloride is also found in the form of particles.
reflective.
3. Synthetic origin. From crystals of glycolic esters, resulting from the
Combination of stearic acid and diethylene glycol can produce a pearlescent effect.
The mixture of sodium and potassium stearate can also give a pearled effect to creams.
shaving.
Properties. The essence of the East is a suspension of guanine in petroleum jelly.
or in castor oil. It is a liposoluble product. Currently, this mixture is very expensive and
Its use is reserved for high-end makeup.
Micatitanium and bismuth oxychloride are insoluble substances related to
the pigments. They can be colored or associated with colored pigments. Their
density is higher than that of the essence of the East and tends to settle in
liquid medium (nail varnishes).
The nacreous stearates are amphiphilic molecules that easily integrate into the
fat phase of emulsions and shampoo formulations.
Usage. Essence of the East: makeup products, especially nail polishes
from brand.
Mineral nacarants: makeup products, especially eyeshadows, lipsticks
of lips and nail varnishes.
Stearates: shampoos, foaming baths, shower gels, and shaving creams.