Weber 32-34 adjustments and data

Well, let's take a look at this famous and big carburetor that has more than one person sleepless, at least for
that they know each part and can disassemble it to clean and adjust it, many are fragments of notes that I was
compiling questions that were asked of me on previous occasions, I hope they are helpful and this post remains open for you
Ask the questions you have and I will edit or answer so that you get to know it thoroughly, I must thank the
participation of Anibal and Juanpf who make this possible thanks to the photos they provided taken from their
cars, and some others taken from the forum..

Now I am going to show you what cadapieza is for and the calibrated steps.
Removing the metal cover of the filter, we find the top cover;
Among the highlights, we can see the air jets (below are the emulsifier tubes and further down the jets of
Take out the high-speed jets to clean them, the air jets unscrew and the emulsifier comes out on its own.

Turning this top cover, we see the gasoline jets of both mouths, the air passage that connects with the screw.
of slowdown, the housing for the cut-off solenoid, the control base of the needle of the float that controls the
fuel intake up to a certain level. it is advisable if it were possible to disassemble everything and blow through the steps with
air.
Now we will look at the body of the carburetor, as you can see it doesn't have as much as the cover.

In the photo, you can see the throats of both mouths, the diffusers that are fixed in this burka (they are part of the
body), we can also see the injectors of the dunking pumps (the jet passage of the pumps is calibrated at
the same injector nozzle), the pneumatic part of the climate primer, and the mechanical part which is the peak pump
that always works, the housings for the diaphragm of the pumps and the economizer are also appreciated.

Now let's look at the lower part of the body, it contains all the mechanism of the butterflies and the connection ports of the
advance, the recirculation of gases, the diaphragm of the starter (this diaphragm is responsible for opening the priming throttle in
In case we have a deep siphon so that it doesn't drown). Clean everything very well and above all things, blow it out.
all the calibrated steps and the progression holes that are in the throat very close to the butterfly, also clean them
Very well, right where the butterfly closes, there forms something like a rubber that is typical of gasoline residues.
And an external view of the body to show the diaphragms and the idle valve. Whenever you disassemble, check each one.
of the diaphragms and change them if necessary, if you see them deformed or very dry, (be careful that there is a spring behind)
of each diaphragm that is not lost

In this photo, we can see the float with its axis and the needle that controls the entry of petrol into the tank, always try with
Be careful with the float so as not to alter its adjustment, shake it next to your ear to see if it is punctured (it has gasoline)
inside), check that the axle is not excessively worn, and that the float placed in the upper cover moves
freely without getting stuck in its movement, also check the needle if it closes properly and if the tip cone is where
Close this, it is very deformed or worn out; if there are doubts, replace it.
In this photo we see the electronic cutoff valve, check and clean the jet, the main passage is the one at the tip.
Join dirt and blow very well the accommodation, also put +12v on the solenoid valve and ground on the body to see.
if it acts correctly.

Below is the table of calibrated steps for the 1.6 engine; for the 1.4, the only difference is the high jet.
from the second mouth that instead of being 127 is 122...
MAIN CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS:

The first step when disassembling the burka is to check and, if necessary, adjust the level of the tank.

First, I clarify that the screw at the base of the burqa is the one that controls the richness of the mixture; this is a conical screw and it controls the...
air passage .. the fuel passage is fixed, it is the chicle of the solenoid valve .47, so by turning this screw what
What we do is give more or less air to adjust the richness of the mixture, and the other longer screw regulates the opening of the...
butterfly, I mean it regulates how fast it is going; to adjust the idle, the engine has to be warm otherwise it will definitely go.
to deceive in regulation, now I'll explain how it's done.

Engine running, hot, it's regulating, we tighten the mixture screw until it reaches the stop and the car stops, otherwise
If there is any problem with any air intake, either in the burka link or a dry hose, check it.
Well, that's good, let's stop then, so we loosen it about 3 turns and start it, the car will now start, there.
medium low but it should be regulated..
Now we are going to slowly loosen the wealth screw and we will notice that the engine's revolutions will go down.
increasing, until it reaches a point where it doesn't increase anymore, (this is done by slowly turning the screw and paying attention!!!, for sure
if it is very misaligned, it will be regulating at 1200 rpm ±, so we adjust the throttle screw to make it
Set it to 900 rpm, once we do this we touch the mixture screw again, loosening it a little more but this time
with much more precision since the variation will be minimal.., if it accelerates a little more we correct the laps with the
another screw until it reaches 900rpm, and we repeat this until we loosen for example 1/2 turn of the screw and it no longer accelerates
but there the idle is regulated..

Now some details that arise in practice:

The first adjustment will make the variation in turns quite evident, in the second we will gently turn the screw.
because the variation is going to be minimal.

Sometimes the car passes by better, as you guys say, thicker in mixture, so if they regulated it and you see it, great.
They adjust the mixing screw a little and keep testing with the medium lentil cold.

And the last clarification.. we always regulate the rpm to 900 after each mixture adjustment, that is, the opening screw of
the butterfly is there to compensate for the variations in the mixture and not the other way around....

The photo with the adjustments:

We can see the top cover of the burqa outside upside down with the float installed (4).
(3) is the needle valve that opens and closes via the lever (2) of the float according to the position of the float.
letting gasoline in until the level balances and the float closes the small valve, take it out and check if it closes well and doesn't
it is very marked, the perfect float is of no use if the needle does not close well...
(1) it is a tab that serves as a travel stop, so we can adjust the maximum travel of the float, usually it goes in the
Regulation:
To regulate the float, we will place the lid in a vertical position; a gauge is good, or if we don't have one, we can cut a cardboard.
just at 30mm to use it as a gauge.
It's simple, the only tab that needs to be twisted very slightly with tweezers is the (2) until it measures 30mm.
between the highest point of the float and the joint of the upper body, when we measure with the caliper or a 30mm cardboard that
Quota as shown in the drawing, the float has already been calibrated, check if both buoys measure 30mm, if not
You have to twist one of the arms very subtly to make it work straight.

Adjust the idle

minimum accelerated of a state, for cars without air and two states for those with air conditioning.

The two-state one compensates for the turns that the air conditioning takes from the engine when it is on and also the
cold motor regime.
The one from a state only compensates for the cold engine regime.
It works more or less like this:
It is a valve that senses the temperature of the water behind the manifold and allows depression to pass through a small hose.
that activates a lung (command actuator) until the car reaches around 70 degrees, this valve, if you notice, is
connected to the command actuator which is that big thing next to the carburetor (right below the inlet of
combustible). If you look closely, that little part which is a chamber that works with vacuum pulls a little rod that in turn is
connected to a lever that acts on the first mouth and opens it a little to make it a little faster
until the engine reaches temperature. In the version with air, it is larger because it has two cylinders.

That little valve has an adjustment which is the large white nut with a small locking nut that is in the diaphragm.
the way to proceed is to loosen the lock nut and turn the large white nut, if the car is very accelerated we give it a
turn so that the rod becomes longer and if not we tighten it. if that is poorly adjusted it is possible that the car ends up
accelerated more than necessary, and if you pay attention to the 70º a relay is also heard, that's what juan pf says, there
Turn off the heater from the manifold, it seems like the heater is what speeds it up because it all happens at once.
If what is accelerating is just a little, it is totally normal; otherwise, you need to adjust the push rod, which in turn
act on the butterfly.

You can see in the photo the adjustments and the lever mechanism that operates this system mechanically.

The CUT-OFF:

this is not regulated but to let you know how it works, what it does and how to check the system

The cut-off is a system that is responsible for electronically controlling the fuel shutoff, it is an electrovalve with a
solenoid that acts on the low nozzle, opening or closing according to the car's revolutions.
The red wire goes to the control unit and commands the solenoid valve, while the black wire is responsible for sensing by simple.
contact mass when the butterfly is open or closed, and it is also very important that this works well.
The cut-off valve opens the low-pressure nozzle when the car is idling and closes when the car accelerates and raises RPM.
that once the car is in gear, it no longer needs the low circuit, now when the car enters
deceleration this valve remains closed until it reaches a regime of ± 1300 rpm and the valve opens again
lower it so that the car resumes idle and does not stall.
So it only activates the low circuit when it's essential.