The evolution of dress in India is a rich and diverse tapestry, reflecting thousands of years of
cultural exchange, climate adaptation, social structures, and aesthetic sensibilities. From
unstitched drapes of ancient times to the fusion wear of today, Indian clothing has constantly
transformed while retaining its unique identity.
Here's a breakdown of its evolution through different periods:
I. Ancient India (Indus Valley Civilization, Vedic Period, Mauryan & Gupta Empires)
● Indus Valley Civilization (c. 2500-1900 BCE):
○ Early evidence suggests the use of locally grown cotton.
○ Figurines and seals depict draped garments. Men wore knee-length skirts similar to
modern dhotis. Women wore wrap skirts and shoulder shawls, with some evidence of
short tunics and trousers.
○ High-class society sometimes wore a long robe draped over the left shoulder.
○ Fibers like cotton, flax, silk, wool, linen, and leather were used. Dyeing with natural
colors like red madder was practiced.
○ Jewellery was common for both men and women, including necklaces, bangles,
earrings, and headwear.
● Vedic Period (c. 1500-500 BCE):
○ Clothing primarily consisted of a single piece of cloth wrapped around the body and
draped over the shoulder.
○ Paridhana: A lower garment, often pleated in front and tied with a belt called
mekhala.
○ Uttariya: An upper garment, like a shawl, removed during summers.
○ The Rig Veda mentions adhivastra (outer cover/veil), kurlra (head-ornament/turban),
and andpratidhi (part of a woman's dress).
○ Later Vedic texts mention nivi (underwear), vavri (upper garment), upavasana (veil),
and various head-dresses like kumba, usnlsa, and tirlta.
○ While unstitched garments dominated, early forms of cut-and-sewn garments like
the Atka (similar to a tunic/kurta) were also seen.
○ Materials included bark, cotton, silk, wool, hemp, flax, and animal skin.
● Mauryan and Gupta Periods (c. 322 BC - 550 AD):
○ Continuity of the three-piece unstitched clothing: Antariya (lower garment, often
worn in kachcha style), Kayabandh (sash/belt), and Uttariya (upper drape).
○ Early evidence of stitched female clothing, like a form of tunic, appears in the
Mauryan period.
○ Women wore embroidered fabric waistbands and various ornaments.
○ Men sometimes wore tunics with short sleeves and a round neck.
○ Diverse weaving techniques flourished, with distinct regional styles emerging. Silk
and cotton were prominent.
II. Medieval Period (Sultanate and Mughal Eras)
● Sultanate Period (c. 1206-1526 AD):
○ Increased evidence of stitched garments, particularly influenced by Central Asian
and Persian styles.
○ Introduction of baggy trousers like Chugha (later Shalwar) alongside the continued
prominence of Antariya/Dhoti.
○ Kurtas (half-sleeved shirts) and Kurpasaka (jackets) gained popularity.
○ Turbans and kullah (caps) were common headwear.
○ New jewelry designs were introduced, including Paasa Manga tika and larger nose
rings.
● Mughal Empire (c. 1526-1857 AD):
○ A period of opulence and elaborate styles, heavily influenced by Persian and Central
Asian aesthetics.
○ Fabrics: Luxurious materials like muslin (e.g., Ab-e-Rawan, Baft Hawa, Shabnam),
silk, velvet, brocade, and pashmina were widely used. Intricate patterns, embroidery
(like zari work), and embellishments were common.
○ Men's Attire:
■ Jama: A long, overlapping coat, often knee-length, with a tight-fitting bodice,
nipped-in waist, and flared skirt. Hindus typically fastened it on the left, Muslims
on the right.
■ Paijama: Trousers worn under the Jama, varying from loose to tightly fitted
(churidar).
■ Chogha: A long-sleeved, open-front coat.
■ Patka: A long, narrow sash tied around the waist, often embroidered.
■ Pagri (Turban): An essential accessory, signifying status and region, often
ornamented with precious gems.
■ Footwear: Ornate shoes with turned-up toes like Jhuti, Kafsh, and Salim Shahi.
○ Women's Attire:
■ Peshwaz: A loose, jama-like robe, often high-waisted and long-sleeved,
sometimes worn in layers.
■ Shalwar and Churidar: Popular lower garments.
■ Dhilja, Gharara, and Farshi: Other types of women's paijamas.
■ Heavy jewelry, including earrings, nose rings, necklaces, bangles, and anklets.
■ Headwear like silk Karakul or boqta hats, adorned with jewels and veils.
III. Colonial Period (c. 1757-1947 AD)
● The British colonial presence introduced Western fashion elements.
● Western-style clothing like suits, dresses, shirts, and trousers became more prevalent,
especially among the urban elite and those associated with the colonial administration.
● This led to a fusion of styles, where traditional Indian garments were sometimes adapted
with Western influences (e.g., the introduction of blouses and petticoats with saris).
● Despite Western influence, traditional attire like the sari, dhoti, and salwar kameez
continued to be worn by the majority of the population and often became a symbol of
cultural identity and resistance, particularly through movements like Mahatma Gandhi's
Khadi movement.
IV. Post-Independence Era (1947 onwards)
● Resurgence of Traditional Textiles: Post-independence, there was a conscious effort to
revive and promote traditional Indian textiles and handlooms. The Khadi movement
continued to hold significance.
● 1960s-1970s: Experimentation and Fusion: A blend of traditional garments with
Western influences emerged. The kurti (a shorter version of the kurta) and churidar
became popular. Designers started experimenting with new fabrics, patterns, and
silhouettes.
● 1980s-1990s: Fashion Boom and Designer Emergence: Economic liberalization in the
1990s propelled the Indian fashion industry. Designers like Satya Paul and Rohit Khosla
(pioneer) emerged.
○ The "Anarkali-style" churidar-kurta was popularized, inspired by Mughal courtesan
attire, becoming a significant "Indian ball gown."
○ Indo-Western fusion gained momentum, with innovations like the "corset blouse" to
replace the traditional choli.
○ The shortened kurta became the globally recognized "Indian embroidered tunic"
(kurti).
● 2000s onwards: Global Stage and Innovation:
○ Indian designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, and Ritu Kumar gained
international acclaim, bringing Indian fashion to global audiences.
○ Fashion weeks (Lakmé Fashion Week, India Couture Week) became prominent
platforms.
○ Contemporary Indian fashion is characterized by innovative fusion: traditional fabrics
(silk, cotton) with contemporary cuts and silhouettes. Examples include saree gowns
and dhoti pants.
○ Growing emphasis on sustainable and ethical fashion, promoting eco-friendly
materials, fair trade, and traditional craftsmanship.
○ Bollywood continues to be a major trendsetter, popularizing various styles and
reviving classic looks (e.g., the chiffon sari).
○ Minimalist ethnic wear and gender-neutral ethnic wear (e.g., kurtas for all genders)
are emerging trends, reflecting a blend of cultural identity with modern sensibilities.
In essence, Indian dress has journeyed from simple, unstitched drapes in ancient times to
highly intricate and diverse garments influenced by various empires and global trends,
ultimately arriving at a contemporary fashion landscape that celebrates both its rich heritage
and innovative design.
