COMPRESSORS CB-024 1991/04

LB161 TEARDOWN SLIDES

Each slide has a descriptive paragraph. Each paragraph has the main
points outlined so reading the full text word for word is not necessary
when presenting the slides.

There are two topics at the end, Literature, and Tools. These two topics
have no slides but should be discussed.

This set consists of 19 slides; the narration consists of 10 pages including

this cover.

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#1 BLACKMER LB161 Title Slide

#2 LB161 COMPRESSOR The LB161 Compressor is suitable for

many applications but the most common
is the transfer and vapor recovery of
* Suitable for many applications liquefied gases such as propane, butane
* Liquid transfer/vapor recovery of: and ammonia. The non-lubricated
propane cylinder design of the LB161 allows the
butane transfer of these products without
ammonia contamination of the products and is
* Transfer without contamination capable of transferring up to 90 gallons
* Up to 90 GPM (340 lpm) per minute (340 lpm). Typically the
* Driven by 5 or 7½ HP motor at 650 LB161 is driven by a 5 or 7½ HP driver
to 800 RPM in the 650 to 800 RPM range. This unit is
more fully described in Blackmer
bulletins #501 and #901.

#3 NAMEPLATE On the side of every Blackmer

Compressor is a name plate which
doubles as an access opening for piston
* Model number rod inspection. This name plate will
* Serial number show the model number and the serial
* I.D. number number of the compressor. Newer
* Piston rod inspection models also have an I. D. number. This is
* Have numbers handy when calling a coded number that fully describes the
for assistance construction of the machine. Any time
you call your Blackmer distributor or the
factory for assistance, be sure to have
these numbers handy.

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#4 PRESSURE GAUGES Blackmer compressors are typically fitted
with a pressure gauge on both the suction
and discharge. In this picture the pressure
* Suction & discharge gauge, elbow and the pulsation dampener
* Pulsation dampener - extends gauge are shown. The pulsation dampener
life & makes it easier to read. eliminates much of the vibration of the
pressure gauge needle making it easier to
read and extending the life of the pressure
gauge.

#5 VALVE CAPS AND HOLD To gain access to the valves, the valve
DOWN SCREWS caps must be removed. Note the O-ring
under each valve cap. This O-ring is
typically Buna-N although PTFE, FKM,
or Neoprene are occasionally used. Older
* Cap gasket - an O-ring on newer
units will have a metal gasket under the
units, a metal gasket on older units
valve cap. The gasket will be either
* Screws are removed with a spanner
aluminum or iron. The O-rings (or
gaskets) under the cap are not normally
reusable. After the valve caps have been
removed, the valve hold down screws can
be removed with an adjustable spanner
with ¼" pins or a flat ¼" bar.

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#6 VALVES With the hold down screws removed, the
valve posts and valves may be taken out.
The suction valve is shown on the left.
* Liquid relief device - ball & spring The suction valve post contains a liquid
* Post relief device that helps protect the
* Valves compressor in case liquid enters the
* Valve gaskets - usually aluminum cylinder area. This device consists of a
* Always replace gaskets ball and spring relief valve which will
allow liquid to be returned to the suction
piping if necessary. The discharge valve
is held in by a post that slides into the top
of the valve. Please note the valve
gaskets as well. These gaskets are
normally aluminum although other
materials are occasionally used. Valve
gaskets should be replaced anytime the
valves are removed.

#7 CYLINDER HEAD To remove cylinder head, unbolt the two

center head bolts from the top of the head
and four head bolts from the corners of
* Two center head bolts have metal the head. The two center head bolts have
gaskets metal gaskets. These gaskets (aluminum
or iron) are not normally reusable. After
the cylinder head bolts have been
removed the head may be lifted off the
cylinder.

#8 HEAD 0-RINGS AND The head is sealed to the cylinder with

PISTON NUT four O-rings (usually Buna-N). O-rings
seal each cylinder and both center head
bolts and are not normally reusable. The
* Head O-rings - not normally
piston nut is removed with an adjustable
reusable
spanner as shown. This spanner has two
* Remove piston nut with spanner
¼" pins which fit into holes in the top of
wrench
the piston nut.
* Spanner has ¼" pins

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#9 PISTON Once the piston nut has been removed,
the same spanner can be used to unscrew
the piston from the rod. Under each
* Unscrew piston with same spanner piston there is a thick washer and one or
* Washer & shims are under piston more adjustment shims. These shims
* Shims adjust deck height adjust the height of the piston in the
* 3 rings & expanders on each piston cylinder. This is called the deck height.
* Ring gap is 180° from expander gap Unless a major part like a piston,
* Ring gaps should be staggered cylinder, or crosshead has been changed,
around the piston the deck height should never need
* Bevel on inside edge of ring faces adjustment. Once the first piston has
up been removed, the crankshaft can be
* Piston nut has plastic insert rotated to bring the other piston to top
dead center at which time it can be
removed. Each piston is fitted with three
piston rings. Each ring has a stainless
steel expander behind it. Note that when
reinstalling the piston rings and
expanders, each piston ring should be
installed with its gap 180° from the
expander's gap. The gaps of the piston
rings should be staggered equally around
the piston. Each ring has a bevel on one
inside edge. This bevel should face
upwards. Notice that the piston nut has a
plastic insert that keeps it from backing
off.

#10 CYLINDER With the pistons removed, the cylinder

can be unbolted. There are six bolts at
the bottom of the cylinder. Once the
* Two O-rings cylinder has been removed the packing
* Passage between bores boxes are visible. Two O-rings seal the
bottom of the cylinder. Notice the
passage in the bottom of the cylinder
between the bores. This allows gas to
move from one cylinder to the other
under the pistons as the pistons move up
and down.

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#11 PACKING BOX The packing boxes are secured by a hold
REMOVAL down screw which is removed with the
same adjustable spanner that was used on
the piston nut and piston. Notice that the
hold down screw also has a plastic insert
* Remove hold down screw with
that keeps it in place. Next the packing
spanner
boxes themselves may be lifted off the
* Hold down screw has plastic insert
rod. O-Rings seal the bottom side of the
* O-rings seal bottom of packing box
packing boxes.

#12 REMOVAL OF THE To remove the packing from the

PACKING FROM THE cartridge, a pair of inside snap ring pliers
is used to remove the top snap ring. The
CARTRIDGE handle of a screwdriver can be used to
slightly depress the packing spring to
make this operation easier.
* Use inside snap ring pliers on top
snap ring
* Use screwdriver handle to depress
spring

#13 ROD PACKING With the snap ring out, the top washer,
the spring, the middle washer and the
packing can all be removed. Although
* Female packing ring on bottom not necessary, it may be easier to remove
* V-rings the packing if the bottom snap ring and
* Male packing ring on top washer are also removed as shown here.
Note that the packing consists of three
types of rings. One ring is a male ring,
next is a series of V-rings, then a female
ring. On LB161 compressors, the male
ring will be at the top and the female ring
will be at the bottom.

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#14 CROSSHEAD GUIDE With the nameplate removed, the piston
rods and the top of the crossheads are
visible. The crosshead guide is secured to
* Can inspect piston rods with the crankcase by six bolts.
nameplate removed

#15 CRANKCASE AND With the crosshead guide removed, the

CROSSHEADS crossheads/piston rods are visible. The
gasket on the left fits between the
crosshead guide and crankcase. This is a
flat gasket that will typically need to be
* Gasket on left fits between
removed with a flat scraper. On the right
crankcase & guide
is the access cover and its gasket. The oil
* Access cover & gasket on right
dipstick is located in the access cover.
* Dipstick
This cover also includes a tag with the oil
* Oil viscosity & capacity tag
viscosity recommendations and capacity.
* Connecting rod nuts are removed
The crossheads must be removed from
to take out crosshead & con rod
the crankcase along with the connecting
rod assembly. To do this the access cover
on the side of the crankcase is removed
and the nuts at the bottom of each
connecting rod are removed. After the
bottom cap of the connecting rod has
been removed, the piston rod/crosshead
and the top half of the connecting rod
may be lifted off from above.

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#16 CONNECTING ROD The connecting rod & crosshead
AND CROSSHEAD assembly can be separated by removing
the wrist pin in a bench press. Note the
plastic retainer plugs on each end of the
wrist pin. The piston rod and crosshead
* Lubrication channels
are permanently attached with a nut and a
* Press out wrist pin
pin and should never be separated. The
* Plastic retainer plugs
grooves in the crosshead are lubrication
* Never remove piston rod from
channels.
crosshead
* Ductile iron rod
The connecting rod is made of ductile
* Rifle drilled for wrist pin
iron. A rifle drilled port connects the two
lubrication
ends of the connecting rod. The rod
* Split bearing on crank end
features an automotive type split bearing
* Tabs on bearings fit in slots in rod
on the crankshaft end and a bronze
and cap - keeps the bearing from
bushing on the wrist pin end. Tabs on the
spinning and lines up hole with rifle
bearings fit into slots in the rod and cap.
drilled port.
These keep the bearing from spinning and
* Wrist pin bushing must be pressed
line up the hole with the rifle drilled port.
in then honed to proper dimension
When the wrist pin bushing is replaced, it
* Hole in bushing must line up with
must be honed to the final dimensions
the rifle drilled port
after being pressed into the connecting
* Keep rod caps on correct rod and
rod. The hole in the bushing must also
oriented properly - match marks
align with the rifle drilled port. Be
certain to keep each connecting rod cap
with its matching rod. The rod caps must
also be oriented correctly on the rod.
Match marks are provided on the rod as
shown.

#17 VIEW FROM THE TOP Once the connecting rods and crosshead
OF THE CRANKCASE assemblies have been removed, the
crankshaft is readily visible. Note the
lubrication holes on the bearing journals.
Also note the spray nozzles on the
* Lubrication holes in bearing
crankshaft which spray oil up into the
journals
crosshead guide. A breather is fitted on
* Spray nozzles
top of the crankcase to prevent entry of
* Crankcase breather
foreign material into the crankcase but
will allow any excess pressure in the
crankcase to be safely vented.

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#18 BEARING COVER On the flywheel side of the crankcase is
PLATE the bearing cover plate. Behind this plate
are a series of shims which adjust the
preload on the main bearings. These
shims are normally reusable and the shim
* Shims adjust preload on main
thickness will not have to be adjusted
bearings
unless the crankshaft and/or main
* Lip seal
bearings are replaced. The bearing cover
plate also contains a crankshaft oil seal.

#19 OIL PUMP The oil pump is secured to the crankcase

by six bolts. Note the word "TOP" and
an arrow at the twelve O'clock position
* Top, arrows indicate direction of on the oil pump cover. This arrow
rotation indicates the compressor’s direction of
* Rotate pump cover to change rotation. If the compressor is to run in the
direction of rotation opposite direction, the oil pump cover
* Oil pressure gauge must be removed and rotated 180°. The
* Oil pressure adjustment screws & oil pressure gauge will also have to be
locknut relocated. Once this is done the word
* Oil strainer - clean when servicing "TOP" will then again appear at the
* Oil drain plug twelve O'clock position but the
corresponding arrow will now point in the
opposite direction. On the side of the oil
pump housing is the oil pressure adjusting
screw and locknut. With the locknut
loosened, turning the screw in will
increase the oil pressure setting while
turning it out (counter-clockwise) will
decrease the oil pressure setting. Once
set, the lock nut can then be tightened.
Beneath the oil pump is the strainer.
During servicing, the strainer should be
removed and cleaned. If any abnormal
foreign material is noted, its source
should be quickly identified to prevent
reoccurrence of the problems. The oil
drain plug is also visible in this view.

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 LITERATURE Before starting work on your compressor
be sure you have the appropriate literature
handy. This should include the parts list
* Parts list and the installation operation and
* Installation, operation, & maintenance instructions. In addition you
maintenance manual may have additional instruction sheets
* Other instructions with valves, included with such items as valves and
packing packing. If you do not have the proper
* Call Blackmer distributor for literature, call your Blackmer distributor.
literature

TOOLS In order to service your Blackmer

compressor a suitable selection of tools
must be available. You probably already
* Standard wrenches, etc. have most of the standard wrenches and
* Inside snap ring pliers other tools that will be needed. Be sure
* Spanner wrench with ¼" pins you have a pair of inside snap ring pliers,
* Blackmer tool kit available and the spanner wrench with ¼" pins.
Blackmer offers a complete tool kit for
those who want to keep tools near the
compressor.

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