SANTIPURI SAREE
The famed poet, lyricist and writer of the pre independence age D.L. Roy had also immortalized the
Beauty of the handloom saris of Santipur.
“There she wears the fine Dure of Shantipore,
The striking semblance of Dure of Shantipore'
Look brother - That's the Dure of Shantipore.”
Describing the super-fine gauzy quality of Santipur sarees, Dinabandhu Mitra once wrote:
“Masters, tailors, weavers in thousands dwell
In Santipur, and we know very well
So fine are the striped sarees, by whatever name called,
They hide little shame, leaving viewers appalled.”
Santipuri saree is a saree of special quality made of special yarn with specific design. The saree is
produced in Santipur in district Nadia, West Bengal. Santipuri Saree in its present form may be defined as
the Saree which is traditionally woven in Fly Shuttle Frame/Pit Looms using 80s-100s cotton yarn in
wrap and weft with plain border and/or border with extra warp jacquard designs of different
characteristics viz. floral, abstract, geometrical, instrumental motifs, special motifs of different historical
backgrounds, temples and other natural motifs with typical colour pattern in pallu. Body of the fabric may
be plain or decorated with "Buti" using Extra Warp/ Weft with or without the help of jacquard. Specialty
of Santipuri saree is that it is marketed in a typical traditional folded form known as "Guti Bhanj".
At the beginning, the designs of Santipuri Saree were reproduced in hand only (Hate Tola Buti) in
ordinary Throw Shuttle Looms by the weavers themselves. The designs were usually woven on border
of5"-6" width using deep black and red colour cotton yarn. Santipuri Saree finds a very significant place
in the colorful feather of traditional Bengal Handloom Sarees.
HISTORY
The name "Santipuri" originates from the name of a place Santipur in Nadia district. The handloom
weaving tradition of Santipur had been recorded in the Biographical manuscript namely
"Adtaityamangal" of Shri Adwaityacharya (1460-1558).
Initially, handloom fabrics of this place were made of handspun cotton yarn and woven on throw shuttle
pit loom. Use of mill spun yarn was started only in 1824. Handloom products of this place were famous
for its designs, produced by hand using Extra weft, colour pattern and especially for thin structure. The
products were mainly Sarees and Dhotis. Specialty of Santipur was, however, in production of Saree.
METHOD OF PRODUCTION
The material used in Santipuri sarees are mainly cotton and Bangalore silk. The cotton which is primarily
produced in Maharashtra is first made into yarn by a charkha. This is the main raw material for the sarees;
the yarn that is selected is of the best quality available and is steamrolled and ironed first before dyeing it
in various colors. It is then slowly stretched using a large wheel. Only after the weaver is completely
satisfied about quality of the yarn does he proceed to use it in his loom by rolling it up in a multitude of
bobbins. The bobbins are fitted to the loom in a serialized alternate pattern so as to achieve the variation
in color pattern that is sought after (but not the designs of anchals of the sarees).
The primary difference between Santipuri sarees and its other counterparts is the unique quality of
doubling the thread count through reed (Sana). The number of threads can be increased anywhere
between 2-9 threads, with a higher thread count implying a softer and glossier finish. Secondly, Santipuri
sarees maintain an l00xl00 thread value: this thread value is rare in other places.
One of the several specialties of Santipuri textile is the Nilambari Saree, the word 'Nilambari' literally
meaning blue sky referring to the sarees deep navy-blue colour. The 'Pallu' (the falling edge of the saree)
is decorated with stripes of varying thickness. These stripes, called 'sajanshoi,' have colors that are
complementary to those used on the borders.
Specification of cotton Naksha par Santipuri Saree :
Length Not less than 5.50 mts
Width Not less than 5.50 mts
Warp & Weft l00s cotton yarn.
Extra warp Artificial Zari/Art Silk /2/80s cotton yarn.
Reed Count Not less than 72.
Picks/inch 70-72.
Jacquard capacity Not less than 100 hooks.
Weight of Saree Not less than 350 grams.
