Textiles Paper 1
Textiles Paper 1
Faculty of Material Technologies and Textile Design, Institute of Textile Architecture, Lodz University of
Technology, 116 Zeromskiego Str., 90-924 Lodz, Poland
* Correspondence: iwona.frydrych@p.lodz.pl; Tel.: +48-42-6313316
Abstract: This paper concerns the study of the multidirectional drape and bending rigidity
of clothing packages combined with three types of adhesive inserts. The aim of this
research was to investigate the effect of introducing seams of differentiated complexity to
clothing packages consisting of cotton fabric and adhesive inserts. The adhesive inserts
were differentiated according to their mass per square meter. Three kinds of seams differing
by the number of bent and sewn layers were introduced into packages, and two techniques
of bonding, differentiated by the sequence of operations, were applied. The results of
the influence of bonding technique on the bending rigidity and multidirectional drape
for packages with seams and those without them are discussed. All of the tests carried
out were aimed at answering the question of how seam introduction and its complexity
(the number of sewn layers) influence the bending rigidity and drapeability of clothing
packages in order to facilitate clothing technologists in the proper selection of appropriate
adhesive inserts for the engineered design of clothing products.
1. Introduction
The textile industry has been undergoing a transformation for several years, adapting
Academic Editor: Stepan Lomov to the legislation introduced by the European Union concerning ecological business and
Received: 26 March 2025 production within the frame of the circular economy [1]. Despite the reduction in waste
Revised: 29 April 2025 generated during production and the change from conventional techniques to modern
Accepted: 6 May 2025 ones, the process of bonding garments with adhesive inserts is still indispensable in the
Published: 9 May 2025 practices of the garment industry.
Citation: St˛epień, M.; Frydrych, I. Adhesive insert manufacturers are constantly improving their product lines by using
Analysis of the Drapeability and smaller amounts of virgin raw material and using recycled raw materials for production.
Bending Rigidity of Clothing
Changes are also taking place in the use of technology to produce basic materials and
Packages—A Preliminary Study.
Textiles 2025, 5, 18. https://doi.org/
adhesive inserts (thermoplastics) and how they are combined. Any modifications in the
10.3390/textiles5020018 selection of alternative raw materials and the techniques for manufacturing adhesive inserts
should meet relevant criteria during their production. The features required of garment
Copyright: © 2025 by the authors.
Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.
products after the application of adhesive inserts are as follows:
This article is an open access article • Strengthening the material, where there is a danger of stretching.
distributed under the terms and • Improving fabric hand.
conditions of the Creative Commons
• Increasing the durability of the shapes of individual parts of a garment or achieving a
Attribution (CC BY) license
certain degree of garment relaxation [2].
(https://creativecommons.org/
licenses/by/4.0/).
The properties of adhesive inserts depend on the properties of basic materials, the
type of thermoplastic agent, the geometric distribution, and the shape of glue points. The
thermoplastic agent should be inexpensive, suitable for application and materials, and
provide good bonds. The properties that are mainly studied in this paper are as follows: the
bending rigidity and drape. The material fabric’s bending rigidity influences the comfort
of the clothing wearer. The bending rigidity of cotton and cotton/PES fabrics versus their
drapeability was examined by Frydrych and Matusiak [3].
Additionally, the bending rigidity influences a garment’s appearance [4] and ability to
make folds [5]. However, rigidity is also an important factor influencing fabric hand [6].
In 1930, fabric bending behavior was studied very precisely by Peirce [7]. Models,
systems, and methods of measuring bending rigidity have been described by Syerko and
others [8], Sadeghi and others [9], and Dziworska [10].
Fabric behavior during bending is nonlinear and divided into two components: fric-
tional resistance and bending rigidity (Grosberg et al. [11] and Kedia [12]). Sadeghi, Jeddi &
Najar [9] studied the bending rigidity of woven fabric with different twill weaves (1/2, 1/3,
1/4, and 1/5) and plain structures using an energy method and higher values of bending
rigidity for the plain weaves because of very close yarn intersections.
Matusiak [4] investigated the influence of the linear density of weft yarns for nine
variants of seersucker fabrics. She measured their bending rigidity using a cantilever tester
and an MOO3F digital pneumatic tester. The influence of various sewing conditions on the
bending properties of the seams was studied by Suda & Nagasaka [13].
The drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than one
direction when two-dimensional fabrics are converted into a three-dimensional garment
form. Hu and Chung [14] present a fundamental drape analysis of seamed (radial and
circular seams) fabrics using Cusick’s drape meter for plain and twill fabrics with various
fiber contents of cotton, linen, silk, wool, and polyester.
Kendra, Frydrych, and Sybilska [15,16] studied the influence of different seams on
fabric drape. The authors examined the behavior of different fabrics under their own
gravity without a seam or with a seam in the warp, weft, and diagonal directions according
to PN-73/P-04736. Seams were applied according to PN-83/P-84501. Based on the obtained
results, the influence of raw material, weave, and seam directions was discussed.
Jevsnik and Zunic-Lojen [17] also analyzed drape using a Cusick drape meter with
a video camera and drape analyzer and found that the number of folds and the drape
coefficient for the samples with seams were greater or, in some cases, equal to those for
samples without seams. The distribution and form of folds were also changed.
Nachiappan, Gnanavel, and Ananthakrishnan [18] studied the drape of ten fabrics and
analyzed three types of seams and three stitch densities. The drape coefficient of seamed
samples was different from that of the control sample (without seams).
The influence of seam introduction in the warp, weft, and bias directions was also
examined by Adamiec and Frydrych [19]. Non-unified trends were observed for the results
of fabric drape for the samples with seams and those without seams; the behavior of
fabrics with seams was different and dependent on the kind of seam and its direction. So
far, we have not found information about similar measurements for fabrics bonded with
adhesive inserts.
Kim & Takatera studied the shear rigidity of laminated fabrics with different weave
densities and adhesive inserts. It was observed that the value of shear rigidity of the
adhesive inserts and the bonded fabric increases with the increase in the mass per square
meter [20].
The purpose of the presented study was to compare the mechanical parameters,
like the bending rigidity and drapeability of garment packages (the basic material plus
Textiles 2025, 5, 18 3 of 15
adhesive inserts) with and without seams. As can be observed, based on the literature,
such measurements with seams are not so common, but they are important for clothing
technologists, who should be able to predict the behavior of fabrics with adhesive inserts. In
the presented research, three adhesive inserts were bonded with the use of two sequences
of operation (two techniques) and three selected seams. Two techniques were investigated
because, sometimes, unexpected drapeability of clothing packages is observed if they are
too thick. Changing the operation sequence can solve this issue. In the study, basic tests
on fabric were carried out, and the parameters of clothing packages were determined.
The analogous experiment for wool fabrics with adhesive inserts, but without seams, was
described in the authors’ previous paper [21]. In this paper, we would like to answer
the question of how seam introduction and its complexity (the number of sewn layers)
influence the bending rigidity and drapeability of the clothing package to be able to predict
its behavior in the produced garment.
Number of Threads
Breaking Force [N] Strain at Break [%]
per 1 dm
Warp 296.80 ± 18.19 14.45 ± 0.65 217.2 ± 2.6
Weft 210.80 ± 26.24 20.73 ± 19.16 132.2 ± 16.2
Three adhesive inserts made of recycled polyester, produced using non-woven tech-
niques with random fiber orientations, were used for this study. The raw material used in
the adhesive inserts was 100% recycled polyester, while the adhesive points were made
of polyamide. The inserts (successively named CE 1016, CE 1026, and CE1036) varied in
their mass per square meter, but parameters such as the type of fabric raw material, the
type of adhesive mean, the number of adhesive points (37 distributed randomly), and the
method of applying the adhesive mean were the same, according to the producer. For
a better description and to be sure that the parameters given by the manufacturer were
correct, parameters such as the mass per square meter, thickness, breaking force, and strain
at break of the adhesive inserts were examined. The results are shown in Table 2.
Measured
CE 1016 CE 1026 CE 1036
Parameter
Mass per square
27.07 ± 0.36 29.81 ± 1.11 40.05 ± 0.95
meter [g/m2 ]
Thickness [mm] 0.25 ± 0.006 0.28 ± 0.009 0.34 ± 0.006
Breaking force [N] 15.53 ± 1.95 3.19 ± 0.09 3.49 ± 0.06
Strain at break [%] 8.93 ± 1.29 31.83 ± 0.94 26.87 ± 2.89
The results of breaking force and strain at break suggest that the adhesive insert of sample
CE 1016 was produced from a different raw material than the rest of the adhesive inserts.
Textiles 2025, 5, x FOR PEER REVIEW 4 of 16
Schemeofofpreparing
Figure5.5.Scheme
Figure preparingthe
thesample
sampleininthe
thefollowing
followingorder: sewing→→
order:sewing undergluing.
undergluing.
A similar procedure was applied for the rest of the seams. For sewing, an industrial
A similar procedure was applied for the rest of the seams. For sewing, an industrial
sewing machine SIRUBA DL-7200 (Siruba, Taiwan) was used, which sews with stitch
sewing machine SIRUBA DL-7200 (Siruba, Taiwan) was used, which sews with stitch class
class 301 according to PN 83/P-84502 (Ariadna, Lodz, Poland). The sewing thread used
301 according to PN 83/P-84502 (Ariadna, Lodz, Polish). The sewing thread used was TA-
was TALIA 120 (Ariadna, Lodz, Poland), i.e., a cut polyester sewing thread produced by
LIA 120 (Ariadna, Lodz, Poland), i.e., a cut polyester sewing thread produced by Ariadna,
Ariadna, using a GROZ-BECKERT DB X 1 90/14 (Albstadt, Baden-Württemberg, Germany)
using a GROZ-BECKERT DB X 1 90/14 (Albstadt, Baden-Württemberg, Germany) sewing
sewing needle, and an average stitch pitch of 3 mm was used. The tension was set for this
needle, and an average stitch pitch of 3 mm was used. The tension was set for this material
material so that the bottom and top threads formed proper interlacing.
so that the bottom and top threads formed proper interlacing.
The bonding parameters were as follows: temperature T = 130 ◦ C, time t = 14 s, and
The bonding parameters were as follows: temperature T = 130 °C, time t = 14 s, and
pressure = 3 bars.
pressure = 3 bars.
2.3. Basic Parameters of Clothing Packages
2.3. Basic Parameters of Clothing Packages
The clothing packages were prepared according to the techniques described in the
The clothing
previous packages
subchapter; werepackages
the clothing preparedunderwent
accordingmetrological
to the techniques
analysis.described in the
The metrological
previous subchapter; the clothing packages underwent metrological analysis. The metro-
parameters of the clothing packages prepared using the two techniques are shown in Table 3.
logical parameters
Since seam of thethe
joints along clothing packages
warp threads are prepared
more oftenusing the two techniques
implemented are industry,
in the garment shown
instrength
Table 3.tests
Since seam joints along the warp threads are more often implemented
were carried out for clothing packages in the warp direction only. in the
garment industry, strength tests were carried out for clothing packages in the warp direc-
tion only.
Table 3. Metrological parameters of clothing packages.
Table 3.Measured
Metrological parameters of
CEclothing
1016 packages. CE 1026 CE 1036
Parameter
Measured Parameter
Mass per square
CE 1016 CE 1026 CE 1036
Mass per square 138.40 ± 1.82 143.72 ± 2.18 154.56 ± 0.89
[g/m ]meter [g/m ] 138.40 ± 1.82 143.72 ± 2.18 154.56 ± 0.89
2 2
meter
Thickness [mm] 0.61 ± 0.030 0.66 ± 0.011 0.70 ± 0.008
Thickness [mm] 0.61 ± 0.030 0.66 ± 0.011 0.70 ± 0.008
Breaking force [N] 323.60 ± 45.16 347.10 ± 20.94 377.00 ± 13.09
Breaking force [N] 323.60 ± 45.16 347.10 ± 20.94 377.00 ± 13.09
Strain at break [%] 13.57 ± 1.07 13.48 ± 0.81 14.62 ± 0.80
Strain at break [%] 13.57 ± 1.07 13.48 ± 0.81 14.62 ± 0.80
2.4. Determination of the Multidirectional Drape Coefficient
2.4. The
Determination
tests wereofcarried
the Multidirectional Drape variant
out for each fabric Coefficient
with or without an adhesive insert
and thenThefor thewere
tests fabric packages
carried with
out for seams.
each The
fabric test was
variant with performed
or withoutonan
the drape meter
adhesive insert
inand
accordance with
then for the PN-73/P04736
fabric [23].seams.
packages with To carry
Theout thewas
test test,performed
three specimens with ameter
on the drape diam-in
accordance with PN-73/P04736 [23]. To carry out the test, three specimens
eter of 200 mm each were cut from the fabric, and a circle with a radius of 70 mm waswith a diameter
of 200 mm
marked each
in the were cut from the fabric, and a circle with a radius of 70 mm was marked
center.
in the center.
Samples with seams were cut in such a way that the seam was applied along the sample
diameter. The specimen was then placed between the support disc and the clamping disc,
and the measurement was taken. The three specimens were taken for measurement of each
sample package variant (i.e., without a seam and with a particular seam). The values of
multidirectional drape coefficients were calculated according to Equation (1). The test was
performed for the right and left sides of each prepared specimen (six repetitions), and the
arithmetic mean was calculated.
Textiles 2025, 5, 18 6 of 15
πr2 − S
Ku = × 100% (1)
π r2 − r12
where
• r1 —radius of the support disc, m.
• r—radius of the specimen, m.
• S—mean of the projection area of the tested specimen, m2 .
C = l/2 (2)
Bi = Mp C3 g (3)
where
• Mp—mass per square meter.
• C—bending length.
• g—Earth acceleration (g = 9806 m/s2 ).
General bending rigidity was calculated as a geometrical mean:
where
• Bw—bending rigidity in the weft direction.
• Bo—bending rigidity in the warp direction.
3. Results
3.1. Results of the Multidirectional Drape Coefficient
Figure 6 shows the values of the multidirectional drape coefficient for the fabric alone
and with successive adhesive inserts. The garment package with the adhesive insert CE
1016 deviates from the downward trend seen in the graph, which is undoubtedly related to
3.1. Results of the Multidirectional Drape Coefficient
3.1. Results of the Multidirectional Drape Coefficient
Figure 6 shows the values of the multidirectional drape coefficient for the fabric alone
Figure 6 shows the values of the multidirectional drape coefficient for the fabric alone
Textiles 2025, 5, 18 and with successive adhesive inserts. The garment package with the adhesive insert CE
7 ofCE
15
and with successive adhesive inserts. The garment package with the adhesive insert
1016 deviates from the downward trend seen in the graph, which is undoubtedly related
1016 deviates from the downward trend seen in the graph, which is undoubtedly related
to the influence of the other properties of the garment package, e.g., its strain at break and
to the influence of the other properties of the garment package, e.g., its strain at break and
strength,
the as found
influence of theinother
an earlier studyof
properties included in Table
the garment 2.
package, e.g., its strain at break and
strength, as found in an earlier study included in Table 2.
strength, as found in an earlier study included in Table 2.
Figure 7. The
Figure 7. The dependence
dependence of
of drape
drape coefficient
coefficient onon the
the type
type of
of adhesive
adhesive insert
insert used
used and
and the
the order
order in
in
Figurethe
which 7. The dependence
garment ofwas
package drape coefficient
made—for on 1.01.01.
seam the type of adhesive insert used and the order in
which the garment package was made—for seam 1.01.01.
which the garment package was made—for seam 1.01.01.
Analyzing the values of the drape coefficient for samples with seam 1.01.01, one can
Analyzing the values of the drape coefficient for samples with seam 1.01.01, one can
see aAnalyzing
decrease inthe
thevalues
value of
of the
the drape
drape coefficient
coefficient for
for samples
garmentwith seamcompared
packages 1.01.01, oneto can
the
see a decrease in the value of the drape coefficient for garment packages compared to the
see a decrease
fabric withoutin
thethe value ofinsert.
adhesive the drape
Withcoefficient
the use offorthicker
garment
andpackages comparedinserts,
thicker adhesive to the
fabric without the adhesive insert. With the use of thicker and thicker adhesive inserts,
fabric without
the drape the adhesive
coefficient insert.
decreases. TheWith the use
garment of thicker
package andCE
with the thicker adhesive insert
1016 adhesive inserts,
is
the drape coefficient decreases. The garment package with the CE 1016 adhesive insert is
the drape coefficient
characterized by lowerdecreases.
values ofThe
thegarment package with
drape coefficient than the CE 1016
expected, adhesive
thus insertthe
disrupting is
characterized by lower values of the drape coefficient than expected, thus disrupting the
characterized
downward trend.by lower values ofisthe
This decrease drape coefficient
probably than expected,
due to the different thus disrupting
mechanical the
characteristics
downward trend. This decrease is probably due to the different mechanical characteristics
downward trend.insert
of the adhesive This decrease
compared is probably dueadhesive
to the other to the different
inserts.mechanical
The ordercharacteristics
in which the
garment package is made affects the value of the drape coefficient as well.
Figure 8 shows the analogous relationship for the garment package prepared with
seam 2.02.10.
ment package is made affects the value of the drape coefficient as well.
of theFigure
adhesive insertthe
8 shows compared to the
analogous other adhesive
relationship inserts.
for the garmentThepackage
order in prepared
which thewith
gar-
ment package
seam 2.02.10. is made affects the value of the drape coefficient as well.
Textiles 2025, 5, 18 Figure 8 shows the analogous relationship for the garment package prepared 8with of 15
seam 2.02.10.
Figure 8. The dependence of drape coefficient on the type of adhesive insert used and the order in
which the garment package was made—for seam 2.02.10.
Figure 8.
Figure The dependence
8. The dependence of
of drape
drape coefficient
coefficient on
on the
the type
type of
of adhesive
adhesive insert
insert used
used and
and the
the order
order in
in
which the garment package was made—for seam 2.02.10.
which the garment package was made—for seam 2.02.10.
For samples with seam 2.02.10, the value of the drape coefficient decreases with the
use ofFor
thicker
samplesadhesive inserts.
with seam For the
2.02.10, the value
order of
inthe
which thecoefficient
drape garment package
decreaseswas
withmade, it
the use
was For samples
observed thatwith seam
higher 2.02.10,
values of the value
the drape of the drapeare
coefficient coefficient decreases
characterized by with the
packages
of thicker adhesive inserts. For the order in which the garment package was made, it was
use of in
made thickerorder
adhesive inserts. For →
thesewing
order in which themade
garment package was made,→ it
observedthethat higher ofvalues
undergluing
of the drape than
coefficient those in the
are characterized byorder of sewing
packages made in
was observed
undergluing. that higher values of the drape coefficient are characterized by packages
the order of undergluing → sewing than those made in the order of sewing → undergluing.
madeFigure
in the order ofthe undergluing →ofsewing than those made in the order of sewing →
Figure 99 shows
shows the dependence
dependence of the
the drape
drape coefficient
coefficient on
on the
the type
type of
of adhesive
adhesive insert
insert
undergluing.
used
used and
and the
the order
order in
in which
which the
the garment
garment package was prepared
package was prepared with
with seam
seam 2.04.05.
2.04.05.
Figure 9 shows the dependence of the drape coefficient on the type of adhesive insert
used and the order in which the garment package was prepared with seam 2.04.05.
Figure 9.
Figure The dependence
9. The dependence of
of drape
drape coefficient
coefficient on
on the
the type
type of
of adhesive
adhesive insert
insert used
used and
and the
the order
order in
in
which the
which the garment
garment package
package was
was made—for
made—for seam
seam 2.04.05.
2.04.05.
Figure 9. The dependence of drape coefficient on the type of adhesive insert used and the order in
For samples with seam 2.04.05, the value of the drape coefficient decreases with the use
whichFor
thesamples
garment with
package was2.04.05,
made—for
seam theseam
value2.04.05.
of the drape coefficient decreases with the
of thicker and thicker adhesive inserts (as for the other seams). As in the case of previous
use of thicker and thicker adhesive inserts (as for the other seams). As in the case of pre-
seams forsamples
the order in seam
which2.04.05,
the garment packagethe was made, it was observed with that the
the
viousFor
seams for the with
order in which thethegarment
value ofpackage
drape coefficient
was made, it decreases
was observed that
higher
use values and
of thicker of the drapeadhesive
coefficient are characterized by packages made in the order of
the higher values ofthicker
the drape coefficientinserts
are(as for the other
characterized seams).
by packagesAs in the
made case
in theoforder
pre-
undergluing
vious →
seams for→ sewing
the than
order thanthose
in which made in the order of sewing → undergluing (as before).
of undergluing sewing thosethe garment
made in thepackage
order ofwas made,
sewing → itundergluing
was observed (asthat
be-
Student’s t-test was carried out to check whether the differences in
the higher values of the drape coefficient are characterized by packages made in the order drape values be-
fore).
tween the two bonding techniques were significant. First, Fisher’s exact
of undergluing → sewing than those made in the order of sewing → undergluing (as be- test was performed
to check whether the results are from the same population. The results of Fisher’s exact test
fore).
are given in Table 4, whereas the results of Student’s t-test are presented in Table 5. The
number of measurements was n = 6.
tween the two bonding techniques were significant. First, Fisher’s exact test was per-
formed to check whether the results are from the same population. The results of Fisher’s
exact test are given in Table 4, whereas the results of Student’s t-test are presented in Table
Textiles 2025, 5, 18 5. The number of measurements was n = 6. 9 of 15
Table 4. Results of Fisher’s exact test for the drape variances in both bonding techniques.
Table 4. Results of Fisher’s exact test for the drape variances in both bonding techniques.
Kind of Adhesive Insert/Type
Kind of Adhesive
1.01.01 2.02.10 2.04.05
of Seam 1.01.01 2.02.10 2.04.05
Insert/Type of Seam
CE 1016 4.04 3.75 1.35
CE 1016
CE 1026 4.04 4.20 3.75 1.01 1.35 1.44
CE 1026
CE 1036 4.20 4.15 1.01 4.04 1.44 1.18
CE 1036 4.15 4.04 1.18
Table 5. Results of Student’s t-test for the drape differences obtained from both bonding tech-
niques.
Table 5. Results of Student’s t-test for the drape differences obtained from both bonding techniques.
Kind
KindofofAdhesive
Adhesive Insert/Type
1.01.01 1.01.01 2.02.10 2.02.10 2.04.05
2.04.05
Seam
Insert/Type of Seam
CE 1016
CE 1016 0.07 0.07 1.65 1.65 3.24 3.24
CE 1026
CE 1026 4.16 4.16 1.46 1.46 0.21 0.21
CE
CE 1036 1036 0.41 0.41 1.35 1.35 1.23 1.23
From the results of Fisher’s exact test (F < F0.95 = 5.21), it can be concluded that at the
From the
significance results
level α = of Fisher’s
0.05, thereexact
weretest (F < F0.95 = differences
no significant 5.21), it can between
be concluded that at
variances inthe
all
significance level α = 0.05, there were no significant differences between variances
of the cases, meaning that all of the samples belong to the same population and Student’s in all
of the cases, meaning that all of the samples belong to the same population and Student’s
t-test can be applied to investigate differences between the mean values of drape for both
t-test can be applied to investigate differences between the mean values of drape for
techniques.
both techniques.
For Student’s t-test in the majority of cases, t < t0.95 = 2.23 at degrees of freedom k = 10,
For Student’s t-test in the majority of cases, t < t0.95 = 2.23 at degrees of freedom
so it was concluded that the differences were not statistically important. Only in two cases,
k = 10, so it was concluded that the differences were not statistically important. Only in
for the fabric package with adhesive insert CE 1026 and seam type 1.01.01 and the fabric
two cases, for the fabric package with adhesive insert CE 1026 and seam type 1.01.01 and
package with adhesive insert CE 1016 and seam type 2.04.05, were the differences statis-
the fabric package with adhesive insert CE 1016 and seam type 2.04.05, were the differences
tically significant at the significance level α = 0.01 (t > t0.99 = 3.17).
statistically significant at the significance level α = 0.01 (t > t0.99 = 3.17).
3.2. Results of Bending Rigidity
3.2. Results of Bending Rigidity
Figure 10 shows the dependence of bending rigidity on the type of adhesive insert
Figure 10 shows the dependence of bending rigidity on the type of adhesive insert
applied for the fabric and seamless garment packages. The bending rigidity in the warp
applied for the fabric and seamless garment packages. The bending rigidity in the warp
direction shows higher values than the bending rigidity in the weft direction. The garment
direction shows higher values than the bending rigidity in the weft direction. The garment
package with the adhesive insert CE 1016 is distinguished by the highest value of bending
package with the adhesive insert CE 1016 is distinguished by the highest value of bending
rigidity; the lowest value of bending rigidity is the fabric without an adhesive insert.
rigidity; the lowest value of bending rigidity is the fabric without an adhesive insert.
Figure 10. The dependence of bending rigidity on the type of adhesive insert applied.
Figure 11 graphically illustrates the bending rigidity values for the fabric itself and the
garment packages with seam 1.01.01. The order of making the garment package significantly
affects the value of bending rigidity. For the order of undergluing → sewing, higher values of
bending rigidity were observed than for the order of sewing → undergluing. For the clothing
Figure 11 graphically illustrates the bending rigidity values for the fabric itself and
the garment packages with seam 1.01.01. The order of making the garment package sig-
nificantly affects the value of bending rigidity. For the order of undergluing → sewing,
Textiles 2025, 5, 18 higher values of bending rigidity were observed than for the order of sewing → underglu- 10 of 15
ing. For the clothing package with the adhesive insert CE 1016, the differences in bending
rigidity values are the smallest, while for the other two packages, they are significantly
packageFor
higher. with
thethe adhesive
garment insert CE
package with 1016,
thethe differences
adhesive inCE
insert bending
1016, rigidity valuesrigidity
the bending are the
smallest, while for the other two packages, they are significantly higher. For
for the order of undergluing → sewing is greater by 17% compared to the order of package the garment
package withsewing
preparation the adhesive insert CE 1016,
→ undergluing; thegarment
for the bending package
rigidity for thethe
with order of undergluing
adhesive insert CE →
sewing is greater by 17% compared to the order of package preparation sewing
1026, the bending rigidity is greater by 355% compared to the order of package prepara- → undergluing;
for the
tion garment
sewing package with
→ undergluing, andthe
foradhesive
the garmentinsert CE 1026,
package withthethebending
adhesiverigidity is greater
insert CE 1036,
by 355% compared to the order of package preparation sewing → undergluing,
the bending rigidity is greater by 328% compared to the order of package preparation and for the
garment
sewing →package with the adhesive insert CE 1036, the bending rigidity is greater by 328%
undergluing.
compared to the order of package preparation sewing → undergluing.
Figure 11. The dependence of bending rigidity on the type of adhesive insert with seam 1.01.01 (in
Figure 11. direction).
the warp The dependence of bending rigidity on the type of adhesive insert with seam 1.01.01 (in
the warp direction).
Figure 12 shows the dependence of bending rigidity on the type of adhesive insert
Figure
for the 12 sample
fabric shows theanddependence of bending
clothing packages withrigidity on the Garment
seam 2.02.10. type of adhesive
packages insert
with
for the fabric sample and clothing packages with seam 2.02.10. Garment
seam 2.02.10 have higher values of bending rigidity compared to garment packages with packages with
seam
seam2.02.10
1.01.01.have higher as
Similarly, values of bending
before, rigidity
the order compared
of making to garment
the garment packages
package affects with
the
seam 1.01.01. Similarly, as before, the order of making the garment package
value of bending rigidity. For the order of undergluing → sewing, we can observe higher affects the
value
valuesofofbending
bending rigidity.
rigidityFor thefor
than order
the of of sewing→→sewing,
undergluing
order we caninobserve
undergluing two caseshigher
(CE
values of bending
1026 and CE 1036). rigidity than for the
For a garment order with
package the CE→1026
of sewing undergluing
adhesiveininsert,
two cases (CE
it is 167%
1026 and
higher CE for
than 1036). For a of
the order garment
package package with the
preparation CE 1026
sewing adhesive insert,
→ undergluing, it is for
whereas 167%
the
Textiles 2025, 5, x FOR PEER REVIEW 11 of 16
higher
garmentthan for thewith
package order ofCE
the package preparation
1036 adhesive sewing
insert, → undergluing,
it is 208% higher thanwhereas for the
for the order of
garment
package package withsewing
preparation the CE→ 1036 adhesive insert, it is 208% higher than for the order of
undergluing.
package preparation sewing → undergluing.
Figure
Figure 12. The dependence
12. The dependence of
of bending
bending rigidity
rigidity on
on the
the type
type of
of adhesive insert with
adhesive insert with seam
seam 2.02.10
2.02.10 (in
(in
the warp direction).
the warp direction).
Figure 13 shows the analogous values for the fabric sample and clothing packages
with seam 2.04.05. The values of bending rigidity for packages with seam 2.04.05 have the
largest values among all of the clothing packages with seams, which is related to the in-
Figure 12. The dependence of bending rigidity on the type of adhesive insert with seam 2.02.10 (in
Textiles 2025, 5, 18 11 of 15
the warp direction).
Figure 13 shows the analogous values for the fabric sample and clothing packages
Figure 13 shows the analogous values for the fabric sample and clothing packages
with seam 2.04.05. The values of bending rigidity for packages with seam 2.04.05 have the
with seam 2.04.05. The values of bending rigidity for packages with seam 2.04.05 have
largest values among all of the clothing packages with seams, which is related to the in-
the largest values among all of the clothing packages with seams, which is related to the
crease in the layer number in the seam. In relation to the order in which the garment pack-
increase in the layer number in the seam. In relation to the order in which the garment
age was made, differences in bending rigidity values are evident. For the order of under-
package was made, differences in bending rigidity values are evident. For the order of
gluing → sewing, the bending rigidity values for garment packages are much higher than
undergluing → sewing, the bending rigidity values for garment packages are much higher
for the fabric sample itself.
than for the fabric sample itself.
Student’s t-test was carried out to check whether the differences in bending rigidity
Student’s t-test was carried out to check whether the differences in bending rigidity
values between the two bonding techniques were significant. First, Fisher’s exact test
values between the two bonding techniques were significant. First, Fisher’s exact test was
was performed to check whether the results are from the same population. The results of
performed to check whether the results are from the same population. The results of
Fisher’s exact test are given in Table 6, whereas the results of Student’s t-test are shown in
Fisher’s exact test are given in Table 6, whereas the results of Student’s t-test are shown in
Table 7. The number of measurements was n = 20.
Table 7. The number of measurements was n = 20.
Table 6. Results of Fisher’s exact test for the bending rigidity variances in both bonding techniques.
Kind of Adhesive
1.01.01 2.02.10 2.04.05
Insert/Type of Seam
CE 1016 2.09 1.63 1.45
CE 1026 2.08 1.75 1.70
CE 1036 2.09 2.03 1.53
Table 7. Results of Student’s t-test for the bending rigidity differences between both bonding techniques.
Kind of Adhesive
1.01.01 2.02.10 2.04.05
Insert/Type of Seam
CE 1016 3.64 4.64 46.33
CE 1026 29.21 15.73 64.98
CE 1036 45.37 27.12 47.02
From the results of Fisher’s exact test (F < F0.95 = 2.09), it can be concluded that at
the significance level α = 0.05, there are no significant differences between variances in a
majority of the cases (in two cases F = 2.09), so the majority of samples belongs to the same
population and Student’s t-test can be applied to investigate differences between the mean
values of drape for both techniques.
From the results of Fisher’s exact test (F < F0.95 = 2.09), it can be concluded that at the
significance level α = 0.05, there are no significant differences between variances in a ma-
jority of the cases (in two cases F = 2.09), so the majority of samples belongs to the same
Textiles 2025, 5, 18 population and Student’s t-test can be applied to investigate differences between the12 mean
of 15
values of drape for both techniques.
For Student’s t-test among all the test variants, t > t0.99 = 2.71 at degrees of freedom k
For Student’s t-test among all the test variants, t > t = 2.71 at degrees of freedom
= 38, so differences between the two bonding techniques 0.99 are statistically important at the
k = 38, so differences between the two bonding techniques are statistically important at the
significance level α = 0.01.
significance level α = 0.01.
3.3. Influence of Bending Rigidity on the Drape Coefficient
3.3. Influence of Bending Rigidity on the Drape Coefficient
Below, there are figures showing the relationship between bending rigidity and the
Below, there are figures showing the relationship between bending rigidity and the
multidirectional drape coefficient for the fabric itself and clothing packages without
multidirectional drape coefficient for the fabric itself and clothing packages without seams,
seams, Figure 14, and those with seams, Figure 15–17, respectively.
Figure 14, and those with seams, Figures 15–17, respectively.
For fabric samples and clothing packages without seams, it was observed that as the
bending rigidity increases, the value of the drape coefficient decreases. As the mass per
square meter increases, the value of the drape coefficient also decreases.
Figure 15. The relationship between the bending rigidity values in the warp direction and the mul-
tidirectional drape coefficient for the fabric itself and garment packages with seam 1.01.01.
For specimens with seam 1.01.01, the values of the drape coefficient for garment pack-
ages are
15.lower than for thebetween
Therelationship
relationship fabric itself.bending
In Figure 16, anvalues
analogous thegraph is presented for
Figure
Figure 15. The between thethe rigidity
bending rigidity in warp
values in the warp direction
direction andmul-
and the the
seam 2.02.10.
multidirectional drape coefficient for the fabric itself and garment packages with seam 1.01.01.
tidirectional drape coefficient for the fabric itself and garment packages with seam 1.01.01.
For specimens with seam 1.01.01, the values of the drape coefficient for garment pack-
ages are lower than for the fabric itself. In Figure 16, an analogous graph is presented for
seam 2.02.10.
Figure 16.
Figure Therelationship
16.The relationship between
between thethe bending
bending rigidity
rigidity values
values in warp
in the the warp direction
direction andmul-
and the the
multidirectional
tidirectional drape
drape coefficient
coefficient for fabric
for the the fabric
itselfitself
and and garment
garment packages
packages withwith
seamseam 2.02.10.
2.02.10.
For the samples with seam 2.02.10, it was observed that as the bending rigidity in-
creases, the values of the drape coefficient take on similar values regardless of the type of
Figure 16. The relationship between the bending rigidity values in the warp direction and the mul-
adhesive insert used, but the drape coefficient values for the order of package sample
tidirectional drape coefficient for the fabric itself and garment packages with seam 2.02.10.
preparation undergluing → sewing are greater than in the opposite case.
For the samples with seam 2.02.10, it was observed that as the bending rigidity in-
For the samples with seam 2.02.10, it was observed that as the bending rigidity in-
creases, the values of the drape coefficient take on similar values regardless of the type of
Textiles 2025, 5, 18 adhesive insert used, but the drape coefficient values for the order of package sample 13 of 15
preparation undergluing → sewing are greater than in the opposite case.
Figure Therelationship
17. The
Figure 17. relationshipbetween
between thethe bending
bending rigidity
rigidity values
values in warp
in the the warp direction
direction andmul-
and the the
multidirectional drape coefficient for the fabric itself and garment packages with seam
tidirectional drape coefficient for the fabric itself and garment packages with seam 2.04.05. 2.04.05.
For fabric samples and clothing packages without seams, it was observed that as the
bending rigidity increases, the value of the drape coefficient decreases. As the mass per
square meter increases, the value of the drape coefficient also decreases.
For specimens with seam 1.01.01, the values of the drape coefficient for garment
packages are lower than for the fabric itself. In Figure 16, an analogous graph is presented
for seam 2.02.10.
For the samples with seam 2.02.10, it was observed that as the bending rigidity
increases, the values of the drape coefficient take on similar values regardless of the type
of adhesive insert used, but the drape coefficient values for the order of package sample
preparation undergluing → sewing are greater than in the opposite case.
For specimens with seam 2.04.05, it was observed that as the bending rigidity increases
for clothing packages, the value of the drape coefficient decreases. This trend is valid for
both bonding techniques, but still, the values of the drape coefficient are higher for the
order undergluing → sewing than for the opposite one.
4. Discussion
The values of bending rigidity depending on the bonding technique are higher for
the sequence undergluing → sewing in comparison with the order sewing → undergluing.
This happened because with the first technique, each layer in the seam was underglued, so
the seam was thicker and more complex. Considering only the garment packages made in
the order of undergluing → sewing, it can be seen that the bending rigidity value increases
with the use of thicker and thicker adhesive inserts. In summary, if bonding is performed
before sewing, more layers have to be sewn, so the package becomes stiffer. Differences
between the bending rigidity values of the packages are statistically significant.
Based on Figures 6–9, we can observe that thicker packages had lower drape coefficient
values. A thicker fabric package creates fewer folds, whereas a thinner fabric package
creates more folds and has a lower drape coefficient value. For the order in which the
garment package was made, it was observed that the higher values of drape coefficient
(shallow folds) are characteristic of packages made in the order of undergluing → sewing
than those made in the order of sewing → undergluing (as before). Differences in drape
for both techniques are not statistically significant. If a clothing designer cares about good
drapability and many folds, they should use the second bonding technique. Nevertheless,
the second bonding technique cannot always be applied to the industrial process due to
economic and work organization reasons.
In the paper, we also tried to answer the question of why the use of more complex seam
types increases bending rigidity but has less effect on the drape coefficient. As mentioned
Textiles 2025, 5, 18 14 of 15
above, a more complex seam means it has more layers, which creates a stiffer fabric package.
A stiff fabric package creates fewer folds under its own weight. If the fabric package is stiff
enough (not flexible), the differences in the depth of folds are less visible.
5. Conclusions
The following conclusions can be drawn directly based on the study presented:
1. The mass per square meter affects the value of the drape coefficient. As the mass per
square meter increases, the value of the drape coefficient decreases, i.e., the sample
becomes stiffer and creates fewer folds.
2. By undergluing the fabric even with the thinnest adhesive insert, the bending rigid-
ity value increases, i.e., the sample becomes stiffer. With the use of thicker and
thicker adhesive inserts, the bending rigidity increases, but the multidirectional drape
coefficient decreases.
3. Clothing packages prepared in the order of undergluing → sewing show higher bending
rigidity values than the clothing packages prepared in the order of sewing → undergluing.
4. The order of garment package preparation affects the value of the drape coeffi-
cient. For packages prepared in the order of undergluing → sewing, the values
of the multidirectional drape coefficient are slightly higher than for packages pre-
pared in the order of sewing → undergluing, but the observed differences are not
statistically significant.
5. The use of seams increases the value of bending rigidity. With the use of more complex
seams (with more fabric layers in the cross-section), the bending rigidity increases.
The complexity of the seam (layer count) does not significantly affect the value of the
multidirectional drape coefficient of clothing packages.
The presented research was carried out for a limited assortment of fabrics (only cotton
fabric) and adhesive inserts, but to obtain general conclusions, the investigation should be
continued for a wider sample package representation (synthetics or fabrics made of blended
yarns). Some of the presented conclusions were expected intuitively, although we did not
find in the literature any investigations measuring the properties of sample packages
(like the bending rigidity and multidirectional drape coefficient) with the introduction
of different kinds of seams, as well as with different sequences of bonding techniques.
This is the novelty of the presented research. The second technique, in many cases, gives
better results concerning the appearance of ready garments. Nevertheless, the second
bonding technique cannot always be applied to the industrial process of “pret-a-porter”
clothing. It can be more often applied to “haute couture” creations, where economic and
work organization aspects do not play so much of a role.
Author Contributions: Conceptualization, I.F.; methodology, M.S. and I.F.; formal analysis, M.S. and
I.F.; investigation, M.S.; resources, M.S.; data curation, M.S.; writing—original draft preparation, I.F.;
visualization, M.S.; supervision, I.F. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of
the manuscript.
Data Availability Statement: The original contributions presented in the study are included in the
article; further inquiries can be directed to the corresponding authors.
Acknowledgments: We would like to thank the “Freudenberg Vilene” firm for supplying us with the
adhesive inserts from regenerative polyester.
Textiles 2025, 5, 18 15 of 15
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