BB

A DIGITAL SUPPLEMENT TO BEAD&BUTTON MAGAZINE

NEW COLUMN! Gemstone beads 101 p. 28

APRIL 2016 Issue 132

THIS IS KUMIHIMO?!
Braid & stitch this playful necklace p. 38

Make a beaded
bead with moxie

RIBER
p. 59

SUBSCUSIVE
Create a floral bracelet
for spring p. 62

&
YOUR GUIDE TO
2-HOLE BEADS p. 11

EXCLril 2016
WHAT’S
YOUR STYLE?

TAKE OUR
QUIZ!

Ap Combine two favorite

techniques in this colorful
necklace by Julia Hecht.
Plus!
• New gallery for beaders p. 82
• Make seed of life earrings p. 48
• Embellishing fabric buttons p. 22
www.BeadAndButton.com

Your complete beading resource

Rippling ruffled
bracelet p. 4

4 DESIGNS FEATURING STRUCTURE & SHAPE

Sleek & elegant Sparkling star
necklace p. 8 flower pendant
p. 11

Darling beaded dragon p. 14

WELCOME! B&B Extra April 2016

Form and function Please support

our fine sponsor!

S
tructure and shape are part of all beading projects, of course. After all,
they’re essential for getting those beads to stay where we want them. Without
structure and shape, all you really have is a pile (or string) of beads! But
some designs, like those in this issue of B&B Extra, place a greater emphasis on
these qualities than others. Within these pages you’ll find undulating contours in
Cindy Kamide’s “Cubic ruffles bracelet” (p. 4), straight lines and angles in Cary
Bruner’s “To-the-point necklace” (p. 8), gentle curves in Margherita Fusco’s
“Sparkling star flower pendant” (p. 11), and clever construction in Nicola Klaus’
“Dragon’s treasure” (p. 14). This last project in particular is a fascinating exploration
of the interconnectedness of form and function. So dive in! Whether you are look-
ing for something straightforward or alluringly intricate, these designs will keep you Simply
captivated as you create them, bead by bead.
Click on
their logo above!
Editor, Bead&Button
editor@beadandbutton.com
Then click on
the ad to visit their
website. Ask for their
Contents products at your favorite
bead shop!
Cubic ruffles bracelet...........................................4

To-the-point necklace..........................................8

Sparkling star flower pendant........................... 11 PLUS

Look for links throughout
Dragon’s treasure................................................ 14 the pages that will connect
you to more great content
© 2016 Kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in part
or in whole without written permission from the publisher. The designs in B&B Extra are for your personal and resources on the Web.
enjoyment. They may not be taught or sold without permission.

Editor Julia Gerlach ADVERTISING

Senior Art Director Lisa A. Bergman Corporate Advertising Director Ann E. Smith
Advertising Sales Lori Schneider
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Do not use less than 100% of full size. for access to more
B&B Extra is published bimonthly by Kalmbach
Editorial Assistant Lora Groszkiewicz
Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, projects from
Graphic Designer Lisa M. Schroeder P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612
Photographer Bill Zuback
Bead&Button magazine.
Illustrator Kellie Jaeger
Editorial Director Diane M. Bacha
 Traditional Czech Beads

PRECIOSA ThornTM
Click here for instructions to make the necklace DESIGN BY HELENA CHMELÍKOVÁ

DISTRIBUTORS OF PRECIOSA traditional Czech beadstM TO DISCOVER MORE ABOUT

John Bead Corp., Ltd. | 888-755-9055 | www.johnbead.com
PRECIOSA traditional Czech beadstM
Fire Mountain Gems and Beads | 800-355-2137 | www.firemountaingems.com VISIT
Shipwreck Beads | 800-950-4232 | www.shipwreckbeads.com
Beadsmith / Helby Import | 732-969-5300 | www.beadsmith.com
John F. Allen & Son, Inc. | 800-334-9971 | www.jfallen.com
traditional-czech-beads.com
Frabels Inc. | 514-842-8561 | www.frabels.com
Har-Man Importing Co. | 1-800-232-3769 | www.harmanbeads.com

AGENTS FOR USA AND CANADA MANUFACTURER

Bead & Trim, Inc. | 212-725-9845 | traditional-czech-beads.com PRECIOSA ORNELA
Jablonex Canada Inc. | 416-675-1326 | jablonex.canada@gmail.com Czech Republic

PRECIOSA Traditional Czech Beads PRECIOSA thorn tM

PRECIOSA ORNELA, a.s. | Zásada 317, 468 25 Czech Republic Art N o . 111 01 340
P +420 488 117 711, F +420 483 312 292, E beads@preciosa.com Size: 5 x 16 mm
preciosa-ornela.com
 RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE / BEAD WEAVING

Cubic
ruffles
bracelet
Embellish a basic cube form with rolling ruffles
that serve as decorative links in this bangle-
style bracelet.

designed by Cindy Kamide

© 2016 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in

April 2016 4
any form without permission from the publisher.
 Difficulty rating

Materials
blue bangle 73 ⁄4 in. (19.7 cm)
• 120 4 mm crystal pearls (Swarovski, lapis)
• 6 g 80 seed beads (Miyuki 4201,
Duracoat galvanized silver)
FIGURE 1 • 110 seed beads
-- 3 g color A (Miyuki 2038, matte opaque
light denim luster)
FIGURE 2 -- 3 g color B (Miyuki 1017, silver-lined
emerald AB)
• 150 seed beads
-- 2 g color C (Miyuki 2002, matte metallic
4 mm crystal pearl a silver gray)
c -- 3 g color D (Miyuki 452, metallic
110 seed bead, color A dark blue iris)
• Nymo D beading thread
150 seed bead, color B b • beading needles, #12

110 seed bead, color C peach bangle colors

• 4 mm crystal pearls (Swarovski,
150 seed bead, color D FIGURE 3 rose peach)
• 80 seed beads (Miyuki 1053, galvanized
80 seed bead yellow gold)
• 110 seed beads
-- color A (Miyuki 596, semi-matte
a opaque salmon)
b
-- color B (Dyna-Mites, iris bronze;
www.firemountaingems.com)
• 150 seed beads
Cube core -- color C (Miyuki 4203, Duracoat
1 On 5 ft. (1.5 m) of thread, pick up galvanized yellow gold)
four 4 mm pearls. Sew through the -- color D (Miyuki 401FR, matte black AB)
pearls again to form a ring, leaving
a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Continue through FIGURE 4
the first three pearls to exit opposite Online beading basics
the tail (figure 1). This counts as the www.BeadAndButton.com/basics
first stitch of right-angle weave (RAW). 4 Turn the cube so that the surface of • right-angle weave: flat, forming a strip
2 Using pearls, work two stitches of flat the cube with the As is on the top and into a ring
RAW, and then work a joining stitch as your thread is exiting toward a side face • ending and adding thread
shown (figure 2). Pull tight to form the of the cube (figure 4, point a).
beadwork into a loose cube shape, 5 Pick up seven color B 150 seed beads,
and retrace the thread path of the join. cross this side face diagonally, and sew
To stabilize the cube, sew through the up through the pearl on the opposite Cindy Kamide lives in
four unattached pearls at each end side of this face (a–b). This creates Ephrata, Pennsylvania, and
of the cube. a diagonal line of Bs on this face. works as a dental hygienist.
3 Exit a pearl on one side of the cube. 6 Rotate the cube to the next side so She has spent her whole life
Pick up a color A 110 seed bead, and that the pearl your thread is exiting is crafting — her grandmother taught her quilt-
sew through the next pearl on this now on the left side. Work as in step 5 ing, knitting, crochet, tatting, and cross stitch
side (figure 3, a–b). Repeat this stitch to add a diagonal line of beads to this while her grandfather showed her woodwork-
three times, and exit the first A added face. Repeat this step for the remaining ing. Contact Cindy at ckamide@ptd.net or
in this step (b–c). This forms the top two sides. Do not rotate the cube after visit cindycreates.weebly.com.
of the cube. adding the last line of diagonal beads.

April 2016 5
7 Pick up three Bs, sew down through
the center B in the diagonal line
(figure 5, a–b), pick up three Bs, and
sew up through the opposite pearl c b
a g
(b–c). This creates a cross of Bs on this c f
a
face. Rotate the cube to the next side. d e
b
8 Repeat step 7 for the three remaining
sides but do not rotate the cube after
the last step. End the tail but not the
working thread.

note Remember to keep the top FIGURE 5

surface of the cube facing up.

Ruffles FIGURE 6
Round 1
1 Sew through the nearest end B
as shown (figure 6, a–b). Pick up a
color C 110 seed bead, a color D 150
seed bead, and a C, sew through the
same B your thread exited at the start
of this step, and continue through the
next B (b–c).
2 Pick up a C and a D, and sew through
the adjacent C. Continue through the
B your thread exited at this start of the
step and the next B (c–d). Repeat these
stitches two more times, with the last
stitch being added to the center B of
the cross and continuing through the
next B in the adjacent diagonal line
as shown (d–e).
3 Work as in step 2 to add three more
stitches (e–f). In the last stitch, continue
through the next A at the top of the FIGURE 7
cube (f–g). The completed ruffle should
have eight Cs and seven Ds.
4 Work as in steps 1–3 to create a ruffle
on each side of the cube, and exit the
first D added in this round.
c
Round 2 b
1 Pick up an 80 seed bead, and sew a
through the next D in the previous
round. Repeat this stitch five times
(figure 7). Sew through the beadwork
to exit the first D in the next ruffle.
2 Work as in step 1 for the remaining
three ruffles, and exit the first 80 added
in this round.
Round 3
1 Pick up an A, and sew through the
next 80. Repeat this stitch four times
(figure 8, a–b).
2 Pick up three As, and sew through
the first 80 in the next ruffle (b–c).
3 Work as in steps 1–2 for the remaining FIGURE 8

April 2016 6
 three ruffles, and exit the first A added
e c
in this round.
d
a b Round 4
1 Pick up three Ds, and sew through
the next A. Repeat this stitch four times
(figure 9, a–b). Skip the next A, and sew
through the following A (b–c).
2 Work as in step 1 for the remaining
three ruffles. At the end of the round,
pick up three Ds, and sew through
the next A in the first ruffle (d–e). End
the working thread, and set this compo-
nent aside.

Remaining components
and connections
1 Make another cube core, and work
rounds 1–3 of “Ruffles.”
FIGURE 9 2 Work step 1 of round 4 for three of the
four ruffles on this component, exiting
the third set of three As.
3 Pick up three Ds, and sew through the
next A (figure 10, a–b).
4 Align the incomplete ruffle with a ruffle
from the first component, making sure
that the tops of both cubes are facing
up. Sew through the three correspond-
ing Ds on the first component, and con-
tinue through the next A on the new
a component (b–c). Repeat this stitch
c d e
three times (c–d).
f
b 5 Pick up three Ds, sew through the
next A on the new component, skip
the following A, and continue through
the next A (d–e). Pick up three Ds, and
sew through the following A (e–f). Sew
through the beadwork, and retrace the
thread path of the connection. End the
working thread.
6 Continue making components and
connecting them for the desired size
bangle. For a bangle with an inside
circumference of 73⁄4 in. (19.7 cm),
make a total of 10 components. For
a bangle with an inside circumference
FIGURE 10 of 63⁄4 in. (17.1 cm), make a total of nine
components.
7 For the final component you will need
to connect it to both the first and last

design option components in the bangle. This means

you will work round 4 for two opposite
To make the bangle reversible, add A 110 seed ruffles, rather than three consecutive
beads after step 3 of “Ruffles” to the bottom ruffles as before. Attach the remaining
of the cube as you did to the top in step 3 two incomplete ruffles as before for the
of “Cube core.” connections. w

April 2016 7
 BEAD WEAVING

To-the-point
necklace
Build an elegant, understated
V-line necklace with two-hole
brick beads.

designed by Cary Bruner

© 2016 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in

April 2016 8
any form without permission from the publisher.
 Difficulty rating

3 x 6 mm CzechMates
two-hole brick bead
Materials
necklace 20 in. (51 cm)
3 mm bicone crystal
• 196 3 x 6 mm CzechMates two-hole brick
beads (ashen gray moon dust)
110 seed bead • 96 3 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski,
light peach)
150 seed bead • 3 g 110 metal seed beads (antique
copper)
• 1 g 150 seed beads (Miyuki 379,
mauve-lined topaz luster)
• 1 toggle clasp
• Fireline, 6 or 8 lb. test
• beading needles, #11
e • bobbin or piece of cardboard (optional)

b d Materials are available at Bead

a
a Haven Las Vegas (702) 233-2450
or www.beadhaven.com.
c

b Online beading basics

www.BeadAndButton.com/basics
d • ending and adding thread
• attaching a stop bead
c

Cary Bruner teaches at Bead

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 Haven Las Vegas. She feels
she owes her creative ability
Necklace • Pick up an 110 and a 150. Skip the 150, to her grandmother because
1 Attach a stop bead to the center of and sew back through the previous five of the many craft projects they did
4 yd. (3.7 m) of thread. If desired, wind beads, sewing through the same hole together when she was young. Contact
half of the thread around a bobbin or of each brick as before (d–e). Cary at creationsbycary@aol.com, or
piece of cardboard to keep it out of 4 Continue working units as in step 3, visit www.creationsbycary.etsy.com.
the way. ending and adding thread as needed,
2 With the other half of the thread, pick until your beadwork is the desired
up four brick beads, an 110 seed bead, length for one side of the necklace. For
and a 150 seed bead. Slide the beads an 181⁄2-in. (47 cm) necklace (minus the
to the stop bead. Skip the 150, and sew clasp), work 47 units (meaning you will
back through the previous five beads, have 47 3 mms along the inside edge
sewing through the same hole of each of the necklace). Set this thread aside.
brick as before (figure 1, a–b). Stagger 5 Remove the bobbin and stop bead
the orientation of the bricks as shown. from the other thread. Work a turn to
3 Work one full unit of the necklace begin the other side of the necklace
as follows: as follows:
• Pick up a 3 mm bicone crystal, two • Pick up a brick, and sew through the
150s, and a brick. Sew through the open open hole of the next brick (figure 2,
hole of the brick your thread exited at a–b). Repeat this stitch once (b–c).
the start of this step (b–c). • Pick up an 110 and a 150. Skip the 150,
• Pick up a brick, skip the next brick, and sew back through the previous five
and sew through the open hole of beads, sewing through the same hole
the following brick (c–d). of each brick as before (c–d).

April 2016 9
 d a 3 design
options
b

c Option #1: Pair two con-

d
a trasting colors of brick
beads, like this swatch
in colors gold and jet, for
FIGURE 3 a bold statement piece.
b

FIGURE 4 Option #2: Work this

design with 3 x 5 mm
two-hole Rulla beads,
6 Continue working units as in step 3 • Pick up two 150s and a 3 mm, and sew shown here in the
until this side of the necklace is the through the open hole of the next brick color jet Artemis. Notice
same length as the first. Check the fit (figure 4, a–b). that there are smaller
of the necklace, and add or remove • Pick up an 110 and a 150. Skip the 150, spaces between the
units from each end if necessary. and sew back through the previous five Rullas, resulting in a tighter
beads (b–c). weave that will require
Clasp 2 Pick up an 110, three 150s, half of the more beads than called
1 Working with the same thread, taper clasp, and three 150s, and sew through for in the original design.
the end of the necklace as follows: the 110, going in the same direction, to
• Pick up three 150s, and sew through form a loop. Retrace the thread path to
the open hole of the same brick reinforce the connection, and continue
(figure 3, a–b). through the next three 150s on top of the
• Pick up a brick, and sew through the last brick (c–d). End this thread.
open hole of the next brick (b–c). 3 Repeat steps 1–2 to attach the other
• Pick up an 110 and a 150. Skip the 150, half of the clasp. w
and sew back through the previous four
beads (c–d).

Option #3: Try substituting

the slightly smaller Half Tila
beads for the bricks, as
seen in this swatch worked
in the color crystal magic
blue. For this option, pick
up just one 150 seed bead
after each 3 mm bicone
on the inside edge of the
necklace.

April 2016 10
 BEAD WEAVING

Sparkling
star flower
pendant

Create this five-pointed

pendant with bicone
crystals, Piggy beads,
SuperDuos, and seed
beads.

designed by
Margherita Fusco

© 2016 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in

April 2016 11
any form without permission from the publisher.
 Difficulty rating

8 mm Piggy bead

4 mm bicone crystal Materials

pink/yellow pendant
2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo bead 21 ⁄2 in. (6.4 cm)
110 seed bead • 10 8 mm two-hole Piggy beads (bisque
Picasso)
• 40 4 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski, light
smoked topaz AB)
• 5 g 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads (chalk
white red luster)
• 2 g 110 seed beads (Toho 302, apricot-
lined jonquil)
FIGURE 1 • 1 4–6 mm jump ring
• Fireline, 6 lb. test
f • beading needles, #10 or #12
e
d • 2 pairs of chainnose, flatnose, and/or
bentnose pliers
c
b c
a green/black pendant colors
e
• 8 mm two-hole Piggy beads (jet)
• 4 mm bicone crystals (Thunder Polish,
a d Mexican blue)
• 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads (luster
stone green)
b • 110 metal seed beads (antique zinc)

Online beading basics

www.BeadAndButton.com/basics
• ending thread
FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 • square knot
• opening and closing jump rings
For this project, the cupped side of the through the open hole of the next
Piggy beads will be called the front, and Piggy bead (b–c). Pick up a crystal,
the domed side will be called the back. and sew through the open hole of the Margherita Fusco lives in
Each Piggy bead has a center and an following Piggy bead (c–d). Repeat the beautiful city of Cremona,
edge hole. In the instructions, you will these two stitches four times to com- Italy. She has been beading
be directed how to pick up each Piggy plete the round, and exit the first crystal for about nine years — she
bead: front, center hole (FC), front, edge added in this round (d–e). started just for fun and has never stopped!
hole (FE), back, center hole (BC), or 3 Pick up six SuperDuos, and sew She especially enjoys making beadweaving
back, edge hole (BE). through the next crystal (figure 3, a–b). video tutorials which you can find on YouTube
Repeat this stitch four times to complete by searching 75marghe75. Email Margherita
1 On 11⁄2 yd. (1.4 m) of thread, pick the round (b–c). Sew through the adja- at fusco_margherita@yahoo.it, or visit her
up a repeating pattern of a Piggy cent hole of the first SuperDuo added blog at www.75marghe75.blogspot.it.
bead (FE), another Piggy bead (BE), in this round, and continue through the
and a 4 mm bicone crystal five times open hole of the same SuperDuo (c–d).
(figure 1). Tie the beads into a ring 4 Pick up an 110, and sew through the
with a square knot, leaving a 6-in. open hole of the next SuperDuo (d–e).
(15 cm) tail. Sew through the first Piggy Repeat this stitch 29 times to complete
bead (FE) in the ring, and continue the round, and exit the second 110
through the open hole of the same added in this round (e–f).
piggy bead (figure 2, a–b). 5 Work the next round as follows:
2 Pick up two 110 seed beads, and sew • Pick up three 110s, and sew through

April 2016 12
 e
c b
a

f
b k
c a e
g
FIGURE 4
d

FIGURE 5
h
a
b
c

f
g

FIGURE 6

the next 110 to form a picot (figure 4, crystal, pick up two 110s, and sew • Pick up a crystal, and sew through
a–b). Repeat this stitch twice (b–c). through the open hole of the following the open hole of the next SuperDuo
• Pick up three 110s, and sew through SuperDuo (f–g). (c–d). Repeat this stitch once (d–e).
the next 110, SuperDuo, 110, SuperDuo, • Pick up a crystal, and sew through • Pick up a crystal, and sew through
and 110 (c–d). the open hole of the next two the next crystal (e–f).
Repeat these stitches four times to SuperDuos (g–h). • Pick up two 110s, skip the next
complete the round, and exit the • Pick up two SuperDuos, and sew SuperDuo, and sew through the
center 110 in the first picot (d–e). through the open hole of the next following 110 (f–g).
6 Work the next round as follows: two SuperDuos (h–i). Repeat these five stitches four times
• Pick up two SuperDuos, and sew • Pick up a crystal, and sew to complete the round, creating a
through the center 110 in the next through the open hole of the five-pointed star shape (g–h).
picot (figure 5, a–b). Repeat this stitch next SuperDuo (i–j). 9 Sew through the beadwork to exit
twice (b–c). Repeat these three stitches four times the crystal at the tip of a point. Pick up
• Pick up an 110, a crystal, and an 110, to complete the round, and exit the seven 110s, and sew through the crystal
and sew through the center 110 in the first 110 added in this round (j–k). again, going in the same direction to
next picot (c–d). Repeat these stitches 8 Work the last round as follows: form a loop. Retrace the thread path
four times to complete the round (d–e). • Pick up three 110s, skip the next 110, of the loop several times, and end the
Sew through the first SuperDuo added crystal, and 110, and sew through the working thread and tail.
in this round, and continue through the following 110 (figure 6, a–b). 10 Open a 4–6 mm jump ring, attach
open hole of the same SuperDuo (e–f). • Pick up two 110s, skip the next the loop made in the previous step, and
7 Work the next round as follows: SuperDuo, and sew through the close the jump ring. String the pendant
• Pick up two 110s, sew through the next following crystal (b–c). as desired. w

April 2016 13
 RAW / PEYOTE STITCH / BRICK STITCH / HERRINGBONE

Safeguard a favorite bead, coin, or button

with a protective dragon worked in four
stitching techniques.

designed by Nicola Spickenreither

© 2016 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in

April 2016 14
any form without permission from the publisher.
 Difficulty rating

c
b c
a b
a
Materials
blue dragon 13 ⁄4 in. (4.4 cm)
FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 • 1 18 mm flat round bead (blue shell;
craft and hobby stores)
• 5 3 x 10 mm dagger beads (Czech,
black with AB peacock/grating pattern;
color B 110 seed beads to the 80s; www.amazon.com)
together they will form a continuous • 2 3 mm round fire-polished beads (Czech,
line of color from the snout of the full-coated metallic silver)
dragon to its tail. The two color C 110 • 2 g 80 seed beads (Miyuki 1827, sparkle
seed beads will be for the nostrils, and amethyst-lined light blue)
the color E 150s will make the tongue. 110 seed beads
18-22 mm flat round -- 3 g color A (Miyuki 28, silver-lined
bead, coin, or button
Bezel cornflower blue)
1 On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of thread, pick up -- 1 g color B (Miyuki 1020, silver-lined
four color A 110 seed beads. Tie the cobalt AB)
beads into a ring with a square knot, -- 2 color C (Miyuki 401F, matte black)
3 x 11 mm or
3 x 10 mm dagger bead leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail, and sew • 150 seed beads
through the first three A 110s again -- 1 g color D (Miyuki 339, blue-lined
to exit opposite the tail. This ring will aqua AB)
count as the first stitch of right-angle -- 9 color E (Miyuki 458, metallic brown iris)
3 mm round
fire-polished bead weave (RAW). • Fireline, 6 lb. test
2 Using A 110s, work in flat RAW until • beading needles, #12
80 seed bead the beadwork is long enough to wrap • plastic wrap (optional)
around the edge of your focal. Leave
110 seed bead, color A
just enough space between the first gray/green dragon colors
110 seed bead, color B and last stitches to work a joining stitch. • 20 mm coin (Euro 10 cent piece)
110 seed bead, color C 3 Remove the focal from the bezel. • 3 x 10 mm dagger beads (Czech, olivine;
Making sure the beadwork isn’t twisted, www.fusionbeads.com)
150 seed bead, color D
work a joining stitch: Pick up an 110, • 3 mm round fire-polished beads
150 seed bead, color E and sew through the end 110 in the (Czech, black)
first RAW stitch. Pick up an 110, and sew • 80 seed beads (SB0989, silver-lined matte
through the end 110 in the last RAW greenish blue; www.fusionbeads.com)
stitch (figure 1, a–b). Retrace the thread • 110 seed beads
Supply notes path of the join, and exit an A 110 along -- color A (Miyuki 2091, matte metallic
The ideal focal for this piece is an one edge (b–c). tarnished silver)
18–22 mm flat round bead, coin, or 4 Working in tubular peyote stitch, pick -- color B (Miyuki 2031, matte metallic
button. The focal should be between up an A 110, and sew through the next sage green luster)
1.5 and 3 mm thick; if thinner, you may edge A 110 (figure 2, a–b). Repeat this -- color C (Miyuki 457L, metallic light
be able to layer two focals. If your focal stitch to complete the round, and step bronze)
has a decoration on it, be aware that up through the first A 110 added in this • 150 seed beads
the outer edge of the focal will be round (b–c). -- color D (T15-378C, Montana
obscured by the bezel. If using a button, 5 Work in tubular peyote stitch using a color-lined metallic antique gold;
a shank button is an excellent choice tight tension to work two rounds using www.whimbeads.com)
because it doesn’t have thread holes color D 150 seed beads (figure 3). -- color E (Miyuki 1522, sparkle honey
at the center. On the other hand, thread 6 Sew through the beadwork to exit an beige-lined crystal)
holes give you the option of attaching A 110 along the other edge of the RAW
an embellishment, like beads or chains. strip. Holding the focal inside the bezel,
Choose your color A 110 seed beads work as in steps 4–5 to complete the
to coordinate with the color D 150s, as other side of the bezel. End the tail but
these will create the bezel/lower half not the working thread.
of the dragon body. Try to match your

April 2016 15
 purple dragon colors
• 22 mm vintage button
• 3 x 10 mm dagger beads (Czech, amethyst;
c b www.fusionbeads.com)
a • 3 mm round fire-polished beads
(Czech, black)
• 80 seed beads (Toho 704, matte Andromeda)
FIGURE 4 • 110 seed beads
-- color A (Toho 166F, matte transparent light
a amethyst AB)
-- color B (Toho 704, matte Andromeda)
-- color C (Miyuki 457L, metallic light bronze;
www.caravanbeads.com)
• 150 seed beads
-- color D (SB3341, matte transparent light
amethyst AB)
-- color E (Miyuki 1522, sparkle honey beige-
lined crystal)
e f
d g
c h
b i
Online beading basics,
j
(side view)
a www.BeadAndButton.com/basics
c a d Front of focal
Bezel
• peyote stitch: tubular, odd-count, zipping up
b facing left • right-angle weave: flat, joining
• brick stitch: tubular
FIGURE 5 FIGURE 6 • square stitch
• square knot
• ending thread
Body
1 Decide which side of the focal you Row 3: Work 11 stitches using 80 seed
would like to have face forward. Sew beads (b–c). Nicola Spickenreither has
through the beadwork to exit an A 110 Row 4: Work 11 stitches, alternating been beading for four years
along the edge of the original RAW strip, an 80 and a 3 x 10 mm dagger bead. and loves projects that require
positioning your thread to stitch clock- End with an 80 (c–d). nothing but seed beads, a
wise around the front of the bezel. 4 Flip the bezel to work on the back needle, and some thread.
side. Sew counterclockwise around the Peyote stitch and herringbone are her favorite
note If your focal has a scene bezel to exit the 110 in the original RAW techniques, which explains how both came
or decoration requiring proper orien- strip that is directly opposite the one to be featured prominently in this project.
tation, be sure to position your thread you exited in step 1. This ensures that Outside of beading, she is an assistant
so that the A 110s you will add in both halves of the dragon body will professor of psychology and economics
step 2 will be centered at the top match up. at a university in Bavaria, Germany. Contact
of the decoration. 5 Work as in step 2 and then work rows Nicola at talktome@westmonster.eu, or visit
1–3 of step 3 on this side of the bezel. www.westmonster.eu.
2 Pick up an A 110, and sew through 6 If desired, cut a small piece of plastic
the next edge A 110 in the RAW strip. wrap, and roll it to fit inside the two
The new A 110 will sit on top of the bezel. halves of the dragon body. Zip up the
Repeat this stitch for a total of 11 A 110s two halves of the body, and retrace
(photo a). the thread path twice.
3 Work rows of peyote stitch as follows: 7 Hold the beadwork so you are looking
Row 1: Pick up an A 110, and sew back down through the body, with the front of
through the last A 110 added in the pre- the focal facing to the left. On this end
vious step (figure 4, a–b). Using A 110s of the body, you should have five thread
and tight tension, work ten more stitches bridges:
off of the remaining 110s added in the • one between the bezel and the left
previous step (b–c). A 110 (figure 6, a–b)
Row 2: Turn, and work 11 stitches using • one between the left A 110 and the
A 110s (figure 5, a–b). left 80 (c–d)

April 2016 16
 b Round 1 Round 2
of the tail
a Round 1 Round 11
decrease
c
e Round 10
d

FIGURE 7 FIGURE 8 FIGURE 9 FIGURE 10

Round 14 Round 17
decrease Round 13 Round 16
Round 10

decrease
FIGURE 11 FIGURE 12 FIGURE 13

• one between the left and right • Work a joining stitch: Sew down after a decrease will include one fewer
80s (e–f) through the first 80 added in this bead, causing the tail to taper.
• one between the right 80 and the round, sew under the remaining Round 11: Two A 110s (decrease), two
right A 110 (g–h) thread bridge, and sew up through stitches with 80s, join (figure 10)
• one between the right A 110 and the same 80 (figure 8). Round 12: Two A 110s, one stitch with
the bezel (i–j) 2 Work rounds 2–10 of the tail in tubular an A 110, one stitch with an 80, join
These thread bridges should already brick stitch as follows. As before, each Round 13: An 80 and an A 110, one
be in place as a result of stitching the round is worked counterclockwise and stitch with an A 110, one stitch with
body and zipping the halves. However, will consist of a stitch with two beads, an 80, join
if any thread bridges are missing, sew three stitches with one bead each, and Round 14: An 80 and an A 110, one
through the beadwork as necessary a joining stitch. As you stitch rounds 2–5, stitch with an A 110 (decrease), join
to create them. Exit the right 80, between the 80s will spiral around the tail. From (figure 11)
the 80 and the 110, on this end. round 6 on, every other round will Round 15: Two 80s, one stitch with an
include just one 80, causing the tail to A 110, join
Tail twist. Round 2 is illustrated by a figure Round 16: An A 110 and an 80, one
1 Continue holding the beadwork to get you started. stitch with an A 110, join
so you are looking down through the Round 2: Two 80s, three stitches with A Round 17: Two A 110s (figure 12)
body, with the front of the focal facing 110s, join (figure 9) 4 Your thread should now be exiting
to the left. Going counterclockwise, Rounds 3–5: Two 80s, three stitches with the second A 110 picked up in
work round 1 of the tail in tubular brick A 110s, join round 17. Pick up an A 110, sew
stitch as follows: Round 6: An A 110 and an 80, three under the thread bridge in round 17,
• Pick up two 80s, sew under the thread stitches with A 110s, join sew back up through the new A 110,
bridge between the right and left 80s, Round 7: An A 110 and an 80, one stitch and sew down through the other
and sew up through the second 80 just with an 80, two stitches with A 110s, join A 110 in round 17. Sew back through
added (figure 7, a–b). Position the new Round 8: Two A 110s, one stitch with an the tail, and end the thread.
80s so they are side by side. 80, two stitches with A 110s, join
• Pick up an A 110, sew under the Round 9: Two A 110s, two stitches with Snout
thread bridge between the left 80 and 80s, one stitch with an A 110, join 1 On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of thread, pick up
A 110, and sew up through the A 110 Round 10: Two A 110s, one stitch with two A 110s and a color B 110 seed
just added (b–c). an A 110, one stitch with an 80, one bead. Tie the beads into a ring with a
• Pick up an A 110, sew under the stitch with an A 110, join square knot, leaving a 10-in. (25 cm)
thread bridge between the left A 110 3 Rounds 11, 14, and 17 are decrease tail. Sew through the two A 110s in
and the bezel, and sew up through rounds, meaning you will omit one stitch the ring. This ring forms round 1 of the
the A 110 just added (c–d). in the round by skipping over the indi- dragon snout.
• Pick up an A 110, sew under the cated thread bridge and sewing under 2 Work the snout in tubular peyote and
thread bridge between the bezel and the following one. These rounds are illus- tubular herringbone as follows:
the right A 110, and sew up through trated by figures to show the correct Round 2: Work two peyote stitches with
the A 110 just added (d–e). position of each decrease. The rounds color C 110 seed beads and one stitch

April 2016 17
 g
g
a
a b
d b
c a
f
a c f
b b c
e
c d
e d
FIGURE 14 FIGURE 15 g FIGURE 16
FIGURE 17
a
j
f b
a c
b
i
e
c c
d d b
h a
d
g f e

FIGURE 18 FIGURE 19 FIGURE 20 FIGURE 21

with an A 110. Step up through the first you. Be sure to keep the thread tail through the next A 110 in the same
C 110 (figure 13). to the outside of the beadwork. herringbone stack (g–h).
Round 3: Work one stitch with two B 110s Round 6: • Work a peyote stitch with an A 110
(figure 14, a–b), and two stitches with • Work a herringbone stitch with two (h–i).
two A 110s each, and step up through B 110s (figure 17, a–b). • Work a peyote stitch with a B 110,
the first B 110 added in this round (b–c). • Work an increase stitch with a 3 mm and step up through the first B 110 (i–j).
Round 4: round fire-polished bead (b–c). Round 8:
• Work a herringbone stitch with two • Work a herringbone stitch with two •Work a herringbone stitch with two
B 110s, sewing through the next B 110, A 110s (c–d). B 110s (figure 19, a–b).
C 110, and A 110 (figure 15, a–b). • Work two peyote stitches with A 110s •Work a peyote stitch with a B 110 (b–c).
• Work a herringbone stitch with two (d–e). • Pick up a B 110 and an A 110, and sew
A 110s, sewing through three A 110s • Work a herringbone stitch with two through the next A 110 (c–d).
(b–c). A 110s (e–f). • Work five peyote stitches with A 110s
• Work a herringbone stitch with two • Work an increase stitch with a 3 mm, (d–e).
A 110s, sewing through the next A 110, and step up through the first B 110 • Pick up an A 110 and a B 110, and sew
C 110, and B 110. Step up through the (f–g). Pinch the beadwork in half, through the next B 110 (e–f).
first B 110 added in this round (c–d). and pull tight to create a pronounced • Work a peyote stitch with a B 110, and
Round 5: snout shape. step up through the first B 110 added in
• Work a herringbone stitch with two Round 7: this round (f–g).
B 110s (figure 16, a–b). • Work a herringbone stitch with two
• Work an increase stitch by picking B 110s (figure 18, a–b). Head spike
up a B 110 and sewing through the • Work a peyote stitch with a B 110 1 Continuing with the working thread,
next A 110 (b–c). (b–c). pick up two B 110s, sew through the two
• Work a herringbone stitch with two • Work a peyote stitch with an A 110 110s below, and continue through the
A 110s (c–d). (c–d). first B 110 just added (figure 20, a–b).
• Work an increase stitch with an A 110 • Pick up an A 110, and sew down 2 Pick up five B 110s. Skip the last B 110
(d–e). through the next A 110 in the same just added, and sew down through the
• Work a herringbone stitch with two herringbone stack (d–e). next four B 110s (b–c) and the two B 110s
A 110s (e–f). • Work a peyote stitch with an A 110, added in step 1 (c–d) to form a spike.
• Work an increase stitch with a B 110, sewing through three A 110s (e–f). 3 Add two additional spikes as shown
and step up through the first B 110 • Work a peyote stitch with an A 110 in figure 21, and then sew through the
added in this round (f–g). Pull tight so (f–g). beadwork to exit a B 110 at figure 22,
the beadwork begins to cup away from • Pick up an A 110, and sew down point a.

April 2016 18
 d

b a
c a
b
a b

FIGURE 22 FIGURE 23 FIGURE 24

g h
a b
a
b
c

f
c d
e

f
g
e d
FIGURE 25 FIGURE 26

Ears • Pick up two B 110s, pass your thread visually reverse direction. Work the fol-
1 Pick up a B 110 and an A 110, behind the head spike, and sew lowing rounds in tubular peyote stitch,
sew through the two 110s below, through the next B 110 on the other side starting with round 2 as follows:
and continue through the new B 110 (figure 25, a–b). Make sure the new Round 2: (figure 26, a–b)
(figure 22, a–b). Repeat this stitch beads are positioned behind the spike. • One stitch with a B 110, sewing
twice more (b–c). • Pick up two A 110s, pass your thread through two A 110s.
2 Pick up four B 110s and an A 110, behind the right ear, and sew through • Four stitches with A 110s.
and sew back down through the four the next A 110 on the other side (b–c). • One stitch with an A 110, sewing
Bs just added (figure 23, a–b). Continue Make sure the new beads are posi- through two A 110s.
through the next four A 110s (b–c). tioned behind the ear. • One stitch with a B 110, sewing
3 Work six peyote stitches using A 110s • Work two peyote stitches with A 110s through two B 110s. Step up through
(figure 24, a–b), and then add an ear (c–d), sew through the next A 110 in the first B 110 added in this round.
on the other side of the head, making the previous round (d–e), and work two Round 3:
sure to reverse the bead colors so that more peyote stitches with A 110s (e–f). • Two peyote stitches with A 110s.
this ear is a mirror image of the first • Pick up two A 110s, pass your thread • Pick up an A 110, skip the next up-
(b–c). Sew through the adjacent behind the left ear, and sew through the bead, and sew through the following
B 110 (c–d). next B 110 on the other side (f–g). Make up-bead.
sure the new beads are positioned • Two stitches with A 110s
Neck behind the ear. Step up through the first • One stitch with a B 110. Step up (b–c).
As you work the following steps, stuff two B 110s added in this round (g–h). Round 4:
the head and neck with plastic wrap. 2 Flip the head so you are now working • Four stitches with A 110s.
1 Work round 1 of the neck as follows: on the back, causing your stitching to • Two stitches with B 110s. Step up (c–d).

April 2016 19
 e
d

f
b
b

c
c

h
a
g d
a

FIGURE 27 FIGURE 28

b
d

FIGURE 29

Round 5: Round 9: to turn and exit this new A 110 in the

• Four stitches with A 110s. • Two stitches with A 110s (d–e). opposite direction (point d).
• One stitch with a B 110. • One stitch with a B 110 (e–f). 5 Work a peyote stitch with a B 110.
• One stitch with an A 110. Step up (d–e). • One stitch with an A 110 (f–g). Following the established color pattern,
Round 6: • Skip the next two A 110s in the divot, continue around the opening of the
• Three stitches with A 110s. and sew through the following two A neck in peyote stitch. There will not be
• Two stitches with B 110s. 110s without adding any beads (g–h). recognizable up-beads to sew through,
• One stitch with an A 110. Step up (e–f). 3 Round 10 is a partial round, worked so simply pick up an 110, skip the next
Round 7: as follows: Work one stitch with an A 110 110 in the neck, and sew through the
• Three stitches with A 110s. (figure 28, a–b) and two stitches with following 110 for a total of six 110s in this
• One stitch with a B 110. a B 110 (b–c), and then sew through round. Step up through the first B 110
• Two stitches with A 110s. Step up (f–g). the beadwork as necessary to turn and added in this round.
Round 8: exit the last B 110 added, going in the 6 Work two more rounds of peyote, fol-
• Two stitches with A 110s (figure 27, opposite direction (point d). The turn lowing the established color pattern,
a–b). allows you to avoid sewing through the and step up. Make sure that the last
• Two stitches with B 110s (b–c). divot and filling those beads with too round has two B 110 up-beads. End with
• One stitch with an A 110, sewing much thread. your thread exiting one of these two
through a total of four A 110s (c–d). 4 Round 11 is another partial round, up-beads, with the thread exiting away
This creates a V-shaped divot in the worked as follows: Work one stitch with from the pair of B 110s. Stuff the neck
neck that will cause it to turn toward a B 110 (figure 29, a–b) and one stitch all the way to the top with plastic wrap,
the viewer once stitched to the body. with an A 110 (b–c), and then sew and retrace the thread path of the last
through the beadwork as necessary round. Do not end the working thread.

April 2016 20
 c
a

b
FIGURE 30 FIGURE 31 FIGURE 32

Neck-body connection Where the neck touches the bezel, the sixth E 150 added (figure 32, a–b). Pick
Stitching the head of the dragon to the beads will be parallel and you can use up two E 150s, and sew back through
body requires some ingenuity, since the a square stitch thread path to make the the first E 150 added, the previous five
beads in the last round of the neck are connection. On the back of the neck, Es, and the other A 110 at the tip of the
oriented perpendicular to the beads in if there is a large gap where the neck snout (b–c). Retrace the thread path
the last round of the body. However, the meets the body, work partial rounds of the tongue, and end the tail.
wide range of stitching techniques used and turns as you did earlier in the neck
in this project will serve you well in these to add up-beads where you need them. How to tame your dragon
final steps. 5 When you complete the connection, To attach your dragon to a necklace,
1 Start by orienting the body so that the retrace the thread path anywhere slide a thin jump ring through an 80,
single 80 on the body falls between the there’s a lot of thread showing between and attach it to a chain or cord. You
two B 110 up-beads on the neck. Work the neck and body. End the thread. can also work a peyote loop off of
the thread path shown, exiting the B 110 the back to make a bail. Alternatively,
down-bead between the two up-beads Tongue make an ornament — string a piece of
on the neck (figure 30). With the 10-in. (25 cm) tail from the start thread through two 80s and tie the ends
2 Work a similar thread path to connect of the snout, sew through the beadwork together, or make a wire hanger to slide
the B 110 down-bead to the single 80 to exit one of the two A 110s at the very through the 80s. In each case, make
on the end of the body, and exit the tip of the snout with your thread point- sure that the dragon hangs as desired
next neck bead that isn’t attached ing down. Pick up seven color E 150 before finalizing the attachment. w
to the body — an A 110 down-bead seed beads, and sew back through the
(figure 31).
3 Work a similar thread path to connect
this A 110 down-bead to the body, and
exit the next up-bead.
4 Continue connecting each up- and
down-bead of the neck to the body.

April 2016 21