CONTENTS

Introduction

Common Terms
Rope Care
Types of Knots
Choosing the Right Knot
Stopper Knots
Loops
Hitches
Bends
Lashing
Survival Roping Techniques
Descending
Ascending
Improvised Harnesses
Self-Rescue Bowline
River Crossing With Rope
Making a Gill Net
Making Rope
Throwing Rope

Bonus Freebies
Author Recommendations
Survival Fitness Plan Training Manuals

About the Author

 INTRODUCTION

Anyone can tie “lots of knots” but a proper knot will be stronger and easier
to untie. It will also help to conserve rope as you will use less (lots of knots
uses more than needed) and having to cut the knots out is less likely since
they are easier to untie.

There are many knots, far too many for the average person to remember.
Fortunately, there is no need to remember them all. Just being able to tie a
handful of knots is enough to see you through any situation when a knot is
needed.

The Useful Knots Book is a no-nonsense how-to book on tying the 25+
most useful knots. It comes with easy to follow instructions and pictures for
each of the knots, as well as tips on when to best use each knot.

This book is an invaluable resource for the Survival Fitness Plan enthusiast
but is also a very useful book for anyone who wishes to master 25+
extremely useful knots.
 COMMON TERMS

For ease of explanation when describing how to tie knots the following
terminology will be used.

Bight

Any bend in-between the ends of the rope which does not cross over itself.

When throwing a weighted rope over a branch beware of it swinging back.

Crossing Point

The point where the rope crosses over itself.

 THROWING ROPE

Knowing how to throw rope properly will greatly increase the distance you
can throw it.

When throwing rope, in most cases you should aim to over-throw it.

If you intend to keep one end of the rope (which is usually the case) be sure
to secure it to something.

Note: Even when throwing all the rope to someone it is a good idea to
secure one end. If your throw does not make it over the obstacle you can
pull it back, and if it does make it then just un-secure it and your friend can
pull it over.
Load
Tie a weight or a bulky stopper knot to the end you are going to throw over.
Refers to the weight of the object being secured, e.g., if you are pulling a
Coil half the rope on the palm of your right hand. log then the log is the load.
Coil the rest of it on your fingers.

Stand on one end to secure it, or tie it to something. Loop

Grab the coils you made on your fingers with your left hand. Similar to a bight but the ends cross over, hence creating a closed circle.

As you throw release the right hand coils a split second before the left. An overhand loop is when the running end lies over the top of the standing
part. An underhand loop is opposite (the standing part lies on top of the
running end).
 Once dry cut it into a continuous 5mm to 10mm wide length. The best way
to do this is to begin in the middle of the skin and cut circularly out,
expanding the spiral as you go.

To use the rawhide soak it until soft. This usually takes two to four hours.
Use it wet and stretch it as much as you can as you do so. Leave to dry.

Rope

A generic term used in this book that refers to cord, rope, string, twine, or
whatever material which is being used to tie a knot.

Running End

The part of the rope used to tie the knot. Also known as the working end.

Standing End

The part of the rope other than the running end.

Shock Load

Shock load occurs when there is a sudden increase in load. In such a case
the load will be much more than the actual weight of the object. An
each of the strands) and then just continue to twist as before. You can do example of this is when a climber falls and his/her weight suddenly loads
this as much as you want until you get the desired length of rope you need. the rope.

Thicker ropes can be made by using larger bundles of grass or by twisting

multiple ropes together. Turn

A single wrap of the rope around an object. A round turn (pictured) is

Making Rope from Animals where the object is completely encircled.

In a survival situation you may be fortunate enough to capture game. Waste

nothing.

Sinew

Sinew is an excellent material for small lashings.

Remove the tendons from game animals and dry them.

Once they are completely dry hammer them until they are fibrous.

Add some moisture so you can twist the fibers together. You could also
braid them together which will be stronger.

Sinew is sticky when wet and hardens when dry. You can lash small items
together (while the sinew is wet) and since it dries hard the actual use of
knots is not necessary.

Rawhide

When the job is too big for sinew, rawhide can be used.

Skin any medium to large game and clean it (the skin) very well - no fat or
meat. Hair/Fur is okay.

Dry it completely. If there are folds that will capture moisture you will need
to stretch the skin out.
 Tie an overhand knot.
ROPE CARE
To turn the material into rope you will twine it together.
Proper rope care will prolong its strength and usability. The same basic
Collect a small pile of your material. Divide it in half and rotate one half
rules apply whether you have high quality climbing rope or hand-made
before recombining them. This ensures an even consistency in your rope.
twine from plant fibers.
Get a bunch of the material depending on how thick you want your
cordage/rope.
Avoiding Deterioration
Knot the material together at one end.
There are many things that will increase deterioration. When possible,
avoid the following: Divide the remaining side of the bundle into two even sections and twist
them both clockwise to create two strands.
Animals. Animals can gnaw and scratch at rope.
Next, twist one of the strands around the other in a counter-clockwise
Corrosives. Chlorine, markers, oils, paints, petrol, and all other
direction. Tie the end to prevent it unraveling.
chemicals and corrosives should be avoided.
Dampness. Constant damp conditions will weaken the structure of
the rope.
Heat. This includes fire, friction, electronic heat sources, etc.
Beware that rope rubbing on rope will cut rope.
Direct Sunlight. Ultra violet rays will deteriorate the rope.
Dirt. Dirt can work its way into rope making it stiff and brittle.
Avoid leaving rope directly on the ground and be careful of
stepping on it.
Sharp edges. Sharp edges will cut rope. Be careful of glass, metals,
rock, etc. Place something between the rope and any sharp edges
for protection, e.g., lay carpet over the rock you need to pass the
rope over.
You can join shorter lengths together by splicing them. Do so by twisting
the ends of their strands together, i.e., while they are in two strands, before
Preventing Fraying
the counter-clockwise twisting. Twist one small bunch on each side (for
 This refers to the protection of the ends of the rope. There are basically two
MAKING ROPE ways to prevent fraying.

Fusing is done by melting the ends.

Rope (cord, string, etc.) is extremely useful and can be improvised from
many different materials, e.g., fabric, fishing line, shoelaces. Whipping is done by using a smaller string to bind the tips of the rope.

When there is no other material available (or you are not willing to sacrifice Whipping is better than fusing but takes more time. A combination of
it) then other common materials can be made into rope. whipping and fusing is the best.

Suitable materials include:

Simple Whipping Method
Animal hair.
There are a few ways to whip a rope. Here is a simple and effective way.
Inner Bark (Cedar, Chestnut, Elm, Hickory, Linden, Mulberry and
White Oak work well). Shred the plant fibers from the inner bark. Lay your whipping string along the rope. Wrap around the rope five to ten
Fibrous stems (Honeysuckle and Stinging Nettles work well). times in such a way that the string will hold itself in place.
Grasses.
Palms.
Rushes.
Sinew (dry tendons of large game).
Rawhide.
Vines (strong vines can be used without any other preparation, but
plant fibers spun together will be more durable).

Making Rope from Plant Material

When you think you have a suitable plant material see if it can withstand
the following tests. Make a bight with the string and then continue to wrap around the bight and
the rope five to ten times. Thread the end of the string through the bight and
Note: Stiff fibers can be softened with steaming or soaking them in water.
the pull the other end so that the bight clamps down to secure the string in
place. Trim the ends.
Pull the ends in opposite directions.
Twist and roll it between your fingers.
Cleaning

Rope can be periodically cleaned to help prolong its use. It should be hand
washed in cold water with mild soap. Rinse the soap out and then air dry it.
Avoid direct sunlight and do not use any artificial heating source.

Flaking

Flaking is a good way to make the rope ready-to-use as it removes kinks

and ensures that it will feed out smoothly.
The gill net will catch everything so do not deploy it for very long.
First take out any knots.
When in open sea pass a gill net under the keel from end to end. It will
To flake the rope, find one end and lay it on the ground. Pull the rest of the catch whatever is attracted to the shelter created by your raft.
rope through your loose fist and let it fall to the floor.

Coiling

Coiling rope makes it easy to carry, use and store. It will prevent it from
tangles and kinks.

There are many different ways to coil rope. Here is a fairly fast and easy
method which can be adapted to different lengths, thicknesses and types of
rope.

First flake the rope as previously described.

 Hold the end of the flaked rope in your right hand. Use your left hand to
wrap the rope around your right elbow and the palm of your right hand.

When you run out of rope use your left hand to grab the coils together in the
center.

Once finished you can attach floats at the top and weights at the bottom.
This will keep the net vertical in the water.
Fold the coils in half and use the loose end of the rope (not the end you held
Stretch the gill net across a river. It is most effective in still water, e.g., a at the start) to wrap tightly around the bunch of coils.
lake (near the inlet and outlet are good locations) or in the back water of a
To tie it off tuck the end of the rope under the last wrap you do and pull it
large stream.
tight.
 MAKING A GILL NET

A gill net is time and resource intensive to construct but is very effective to
catch marine life (or birds) in a survival situation.

Tie a suspension line between two trees for you to work off.

Get many lengths of cord and tie them to the suspension line using cow
hitches. Space them about 10cm apart.

Tie the separate lines together using overhand knots. Vertically space them
about 10cm apart.

Another line can be tied between the trees as a guideline. Use the guideline
When you want to use the rope unravel it in the opposite way, i.e., untie, to ensure you tie the joining overhand knots at the same height.
unwrap, un-coil. This will prevent tangles.

For shorter rope you can wrap it around you hand instead of your
hand/elbow.

Secure it in the same way. There is no need to fold it in half.

As many people as needed can now cross (B), one at a time, by securing
Storage
themselves to the rope and crossing over.
Once the rope has been coiled either hang it in a cool dry area or place it in
a bag. There are purpose-made rope-bags you can use if you need
something specific. If not, then almost any bag will do.

Alternatively, you can flake the rope straight into the bag. Tie the ends to
the bag loops so they are easy to locate. This may be preferred to coiling for
ropes that you need quick access to use, e.g., rescue ropes.

Inspection and Retirement

Retiring rope means to deem it unsuitable for use. For professionally

manufactured ropes the company often gives a recommended usage, but
Although multiple people can help while others are crossing, the strongest ultimately it is up to you.
person (A) should take most of the strain by being as close as possible to For rope that is used for bearing weight, especially for critical loads (such
directly across from the person crossing. as a human), you should be stricter.

Inspect rope before and after every use. Look for fraying, burn marks, wear
and tear, etc.

The rope’s history of use is also important to consider. For example, if it has
suffered a big shock load, is very old it, has been exposed to corrosives, has
been poorly stored, etc. it will be weaker.
 TYPES OF KNOTS RIVER CROSSING WITH ROPE

Although in reality you can use any knot any way you wish, most of them In a survival situation crossing a river can be an extremely risky venture.
have been designed for specific tasks, and therefore can be grouped into Using this method will deplete a lot of the risk, although it will still be very
five broad categories. risky.

For ease of learning the categories are presented in a progressive manner. You need at least three people and a rope three times the width of the river.

Stopper knots come first because they are often used as a base knot for The first and last people to cross should be the strongest in the group, with
others. They are also easier to tie. Then loops, hitches, bends, and finally the stronger of the two going first.
lashing.
Tie the rope into a large loop and secure the person who is going to cross
first (person A) to the loop, e.g., tie a butterfly loop in the rope and put it
Stopper Knots over his/her chest.

Stopper knots are useful to add weight to rope, for use as handholds (e.g., in As person A crosses the other two let the rope out as needed. They must do
a lifeline), to stop rope from slipping through a hole, to stop cut rope from their best to keep the rope out of the water, and be ready to haul person A
fraying, etc. They can also be used as a back-up knot as an assurance back if needed.
against knot failure, i.e., tied around the standing end.

Loops

Loops are usually made by tying the rope to itself to create an enclosed
circle. Their main use is as attachment points, e.g., as holds to climb up or
to clip a carabineer onto it.

Hitches

Hitches are useful to secure the rope to an object, e.g., a boat to the jetty or Person A is the only one secured to the rope.
around a log you wish to drag.
When person A reaches the other side he/she unties him/her-self.
 Bends

Bends are used to join two or more lengths of rope together. This can be
useful to repair broken rope or for creating a longer length from two shorter
ones.

Lashing

Lashing is used to join objects together. It is very useful during

construction.

Once that is accomplished pull your hand out from the loop on your wrist
bringing the running end with you. Pull the knot tight.
 CHOOSING THE RIGHT KNOT

All the knots in this book are useful, but there will always be one that is
more useful depending on what you need the knot for.

To decide which knot to use you must consider the characteristics of each
knot. Gaining in one characteristic will (usually) mean compromising on
another. You must find the knot with the best balance of these
characteristics for the job you need it for.

Getting the Job Done

Your choice of knot must be one that will fulfill the task it is needed for. For
instance, a loop knot will not be as effective for binding two objects
together as a lashing would.
Continue to maneuver the running end with your fingers so that it feeds
between the two crossing points. It feeds from the top down. It should end
Security
with you holding the running end.
Security of a knot is about its ability to stay tied and tight, i.e., not come
undone on its own. Constant pressure (or lack of it), thrashing (in the wind
or water), vibration, and other movements may compromise the security of
a knot.

It will make sense to choose the most secure knot you can but remember
that increasing one characteristic will decrease others, e.g., a very secure
knot may become very hard to untie and perhaps fast release is a factor of
the job it is required to do.

Strength
Bring it up though the gap created between your body and the crossing Every knot will weaken the integrity of the rope, some more than others.
point. The rope will be wrapped around your hand. The strength of the knot refers to how much the knot weakens the rope.

When the task at hand requires the rope to hold weight and/or take shock
load, (e.g., climbing, rescue, dragging load), this characteristic becomes
important, especially if specialized rope is not available.

Ease of Tying

When something must be tied quickly or it is a repetitive job then ease of

tying becomes more important. You do not want to spend five minutes tying
a knot you have to repeatedly tie.

Ease of Untying

There are circumstances where you may want the knot to be easy to untie,
Using your fingers, but without letting go of the rope, pass the running end such as if you want to release the knot quickly without cutting the rope.
under the standing part just beyond the first crossing point. This creates a
At other times you may want the knot to be more difficult to untie, such as
second crossing point.
when you want to make it difficult for the object (such as an animal) to
release itself, or to stop other people from being able to easily untie it.

Another factor is how easy the knot will be to untie after it has done its job.
Some knots are designed to be easy to untie even after considerable tension
has been applied, or after the rope has swelled under water, or both.
 STOPPER KNOTS SELF-RESCUE BOWLINE

Stopper knots are useful to add weight to rope, for use as handholds (e.g., in The self-rescue bowline is good to learn in case you find yourself in a
a lifeline), to stop rope from slipping through a hole, to stop cut rope from “man-overboard” situation or something similar. It is tying a bowline
fraying, etc. They can also be used as a back-up knot as an assurance around your waist with only one hand.
against knot failure, i.e., tied around the standing end.
Wrap the rope around your waist so that both the standing and running ends
are to your front with your body (waist) between them. In this
Overhand Knot demonstration the running end is on your right.

This is the simplest of knots and is the basis of many other knots. Overhand Hold the running end in your right hand allowing at least 15cm of rope
knots are difficult to untie once they have been tightened. beyond your hand.

Make an underhand loop by taking the running end of the rope and passing Without letting go of the running end bring it over the standing part to make
it under the standing end. a crossing point.

Pass the running end though the loop from the front to the back.
Tie the ends together using a reef knot. Do it off center.

Make half hitches with the left-over rope that goes around both “belts”.

Pull both ends to tighten in.

The overhand knot can be made bulkier by passing the running end through
the loop more times. Push the first turn into the middle of the knot.

Doing it twice makes a double overhand and doing it three or more times
creates a blood knot.
 Pull down on the ends as you do a few squats. This will tighten it as well as
Figure 8 check for comfort. Next, do a full wrap around your “belt” with each end of
the rope.
A figure 8 knot can do all the same things as the overhand knot but is much
easier to untie.

Make an upwards facing overhand loop and then make the running end pass
back under the standing end.
Swiss Seat

This is an improvised harness that is good enough to use when doing things
such as using prusik loops for ascension, assuming you do not have a
commercial harness.

Find the center of the rope. Loop it around your waist and tie the first half
of a surgeon’s knot at your front.

Pass the running end back through the first loop you made. Pull both ends
away from each other to tighten the knot.

Pass the ends between your legs and then tuck them up through the wrap
you made around your waist, at either side of your waist respectively.

Quick-Release Figure 8

You can make the figure 8 knot quick-release by putting the running end
back through the first loop before tightening the knot.
To release the knot, pull the running end.
IMPROVISED HARNESSES
This could also be done with the overhand knot.

Improvised rope harnesses may not be that comfortable but they are very
useful to know.

Triple Bowline

A triple bowline is basically a bowline made with a doubled-up line.

It produces three loops which can be used (among other things) as a sit
sling or a lifting harness, with one loop around each thigh and the other
around the chest.

Tie it in the exact same way as a bowline using the “middle” of the rope,
i.e., do not use the ends. The running end must protrude out long enough to
create the third loop.
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you purchased it.

When using this to haul people be careful of the pressure the rope may
create on the chest. A foot loop can be made to release the pressure.
One way to make a rope ladder is to tie as many fixed loops (butterfly loops
work well) in a rope as you need hand and foot holds. LOOPS

Another way is by using two ropes (or one rope doubled up).
Loops are usually made by tying the rope to itself to create an enclosed
Tie fixed loops opposite each other along the ropes. circle. Their main use is as attachment points, e.g., as holds to climb up or
to clip a carabineer onto it.
As you do so, put sticks (the rungs of the ladder) in the loops and ease the
knot tight around them to hold them in place. Allow the rung ends to
protrude a bit out the sides of the knots so they will not slip out. Overhand Loop

The overhand knot can also be used to create a loop. It works well with
fishing line but can be hard to untie.

Double up the rope to make a bight and then tie an overhand knot in the
bight.

Bowline

A bowline is a fixed loop that will neither tighten nor slip under strain. It is
good to tie around things you want to secure/tether, e.g., a raft or a person.

Hold the rope in your right hand with the standing end at the rear.

Make an overhand loop so that the loop faces to the left.

 You are now in the basic position.

Grab the rope as high as possible and hang of it.

Bring your feet up as high as possible (pull yourself up and bring your
knees to your chest) and place them in the basic position.

The basic position locks the rope in so you can stand (and rest if needed).

Reach up as high as you can again and repeat the process.

Pass the running end up through the loop you made and then around the
back of standing end.

Ladder of Knots

A series of overhand knots tied at intervals along a smooth rope will make
climbing much easier.

Rope Ladder
The running end then goes over the crossing point and back through the
original loop.
 To tighten the knot, pull the standing end and the doubled-up running end in
Ascending Without a Harness
opposite directions.
It is possible to ascend using prusik loops with no harness but doing so is
extremely risky and considerably more energy will be used. Sufficient
strength is needed.

Make your loops smaller than usual and have at least two of them,
preferably four.

Assuming you are using four prusik loops, the top two are for your hands
and the bottom two are for your feet. You want them all to be fairly snug so
you can slide them up with minimal movement.

Place your feet in the two bottom prusik loops and hold onto the top ones
with your hands.
You can finish the bowline off with a stopper knot (e.g., overhand) tied
Slide your hands up with the top prusik loops as high as you can. against the side of the loop.
Pull yourself up and use your legs to slide the bottom prusik loops up as
high as you can.

Stand up whilst sliding the top prusik loops up again.

Repeat this process.

Brake and Squat

If you do not have any rope to use as prusik loops, you can use the Brake
and Squat method to climb the rope.

Let the rope fall to the outside of one of your legs.

Step on the rope with the foot closest to the rope. Once you can tie the bowline practice doing it around things. It changes the
orientation so practice is needed.
Put your other foot underneath the rope.
 Slide the top prusik loop as high as possible and then put your weight on it
Butterfly Loop
by sitting in your harness.
The butterfly loop (a.k.a. alpine butterfly or lineman’s loop) is useful for
Now slide your bottom prusik loop up as high as possible and put your foot
creating a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. It is secure, can be loaded
in it. Stand up and slide the top prusik loop up again.
safely in multiple directions, and remains relatively easy to untie even after
a heavy load. Repeat this motion.

Amongst other things, the butterfly loop is a very good knot to use to To descend you just reverse the motions.
shorten a rope or to exclude a damaged section. Doing so is preferred to
cutting a rope since a re-joined rope has less strength.

Get a bight of the rope and twist it two times in the same direction so you
have two crossing points and therefore two loops.

For ease of explanation, the loop furthest away from the ends of the rope
will be loop one and the loop between the ends of the rope and loop one
will be called loop two.
 Grab the tip of the bight of loop one and bring it beyond the crossing point
of loop two.

Ascending the Main Line Using Prusik Loops

Next bring the tip of loop one up through loop two.
Tie both prusik loops onto the main line using prusik hitches. Tie the
smaller prusik loop above the larger one.

A prusik hitch works because you can slide it up but when downward
tension is applied it does not slip. Test it well with all your weight before
using it to climb. If needed add extra turns.

Attach the top prusik loop to your harness.

Note: Rope on rope friction can cut rope. If you have a carabiner, use it. If
not, just be extra careful there is not too much friction between your
harness and the prusik loop. Pull all ends to tighten.
Slide the top prusik loop up as high as you can reach.

Slide the bottom prusik loop to about head height, or as high as possible so
that you can still put your foot in it.

Put your foot in the loop and stand up. The joining knot of the prusik loop is
the weak part so keep off it.
Figure 8 Loop

Just like the overhand knot, the figure 8 can be turned into a fixed loop by
making the knot on the bight.

Do it at least twice. The more wraps you make the more friction you will
have.

Ease the loops tight. As you do so ensure all the lines are neat next to each
other. Do not let them overlap/cross each-other.

Also, as you tighten it, do your best to position the fig 8 bend close to the
main line.

To tighten it pull on each loose end, i.e., on the loop and the
running/standing ends.

Work the knot so it is neat with no cross over on the rope. This will keep the
knot strong and easier to untie.
Prusik Hitch Threaded Figure 8

Once you have made your prusik loops you will use the prusik hitch to This is a good way to tie onto a fixed loop. It is often used by climbers as it
attach them to the rope you want to climb (the main line). is considered more secure than the bowline.

Put the loop across your main line with the joining knot (figure 8 bend) Create a figure 8 in the rope. Be sure to leave a long running end.
facing the right.

With the knotted side, wrap your prusik loop around the main line.
Pass the running end through/around whatever you want to tie onto and
then use it to trace the path of the original figure 8.
Pull it tight in the same way as you did for the figure 8 loop.
ASCENDING

Prusiking up a rope is a self-rescue method used by climbers. It is a

relatively safe way to ascend a rope in the case that there is no easy way to
climb out.

It can also be used in reverse to descend.

Climbers will have proper equipment such as harnesses and carabineers but
chances are you will not. Still, prusiking up a rope without a harness is safer
than trying to ascend without using a prusik system. Also, improvised
harnesses, or even just a short rope tied around the waist using a bowline,
can (and should) be made if you have enough resources to do so.

The first thing you must do is create two closed loops. These will be your
prusik loops. Many types of knots can be used to create a closed loop but
most of them are not safe to use when prusiking.

Climbers often use a double fisherman’s knot but a faster way is to use a
figure 8 bend. The figure 8 bend is also easier to tie than a double
fisherman’s and easier to untie, even after your weight has been on it. Refer
to the Bends chapter for instructions on how to tie a figure 8 bend.

Your two prusik loops should be made from rope with a thickness of about
half the diameter of the rope you are going to ascend or descend. Ideally,
one rope will be about as long as you are high plus about 20cm and the
second rope will be twice your height.

The rope you use for your prusik loops must strong enough to hold you if
you fall. This doesn’t just mean it can hold your weight, it has to be strong
enough to handle the shock load.
Hold the rope in front with your left hand and at the back with your right.
HITCHES
Plant your feet firmly against the slope about 45cm apart and lean back so
that the rope supports your weight. Do not try to hold yourself up with your
Hitches are useful to secure the rope to an object, e.g., a boat to the jetty or
hands.
around a log you wish to drag.
Step slowly downwards while lowering your hands one at a time.

Go slow! Half Hitch

The half hitch is easy to tie and easy to untie even after considerable load. It
is designed to take load on the standing end.

Due to its simplicity it is relatively easy to work loose. To prevent this the
half hitch is usually used in conjunction with other knots. A common
example is the round turn and two half hitches which uses three less secure
knots to create one very secure knot that remains easy to tie/untie.

Some common uses for the half hitch on its own is as a backup knot or to
use up any left-over rope so it is out-of-the-way.

To tie the half hitch, loop the rope around the object. Bring the running end
behind and then back over the standing end. The running end then threads
through the loop above the crossing point created.

In this picture the half hitch is loose but in actual use it should be pulled
tight and repeated (two half hitches) in order to create more security in the
knot.
 DESCENDING

This technique to rappelling with only a rope is known as the Dulfersitz

method.

For this to work you need a rope at least twice the length of the distance
you wish to descend and that is strong enough to hold your weight.

Find the middle of the rope and wrap it around a solid anchor. Ensure it is
not rubbing against any sharp edges and test its stability with all your
weight. Jerk on it to make sure.

Pass both ends of the rope between your legs from front to back and then to
the left of your body, over your right shoulder and down your back.

Clinch Knot

The clinch knot is most commonly used as a fishing knot, i.e., to tie a hook
(or lure, swivel, etc.) to a line. It is best used with lighter lines.

Thread the running end of the line through the eye of the hook and then do
it again in the same direction to create a round turn.

For comfort (and if you have the resources) you can put some padding
around your shoulders and groin.
 Wrap the running end around the standing part at least four times,
preferably more. Holding the loops under your fingers as you do the wraps
may make it easier.

SURVIVAL ROPING TECHNIQUES

The methods described in these bonus chapters make use of some of the
Thread the running end through the loops created by the round turn. This
knots described in the main part of this book. These are techniques which
creates a second, bigger loop.
you may find useful when in a survival situation.

Warning: The following techniques are reserved for “no-other-option”

survival situations. If you choose to practice them ensure you take all the
necessary precautions and care to ensure your safety.

The following information is from the book Emergency Roping and

Bouldering by Sam Fury.

www.SurvivalFitnessPlan.com/Emergency-Roping

Thread the running end down through this second loop.

 Do two frapping turns and finish it with a clove hitch on one end around
one of the poles.

Note: Wedges placed in between the two poles can be done instead of
frapping.

A-Frame Lashing

An A-Frame lashing is the same as a sheer lashing but make the lashing and
frapping turns a bit loose.
Tighten the knot. The wraps will change position and squash up against the
eye of the hook. Trim the end of the running end if needed. Pull the legs apart to make the A-Frame.

Clove Hitch

Clove hitches are a useful base for many other knots (such as lashing) and
are also good in their own right for binding.

Clove Hitch Method One

When the rope is not under strain as you are tying it and you are able to slip
it over your object you can use this quick method.

Make two loops in the rope which face opposite directions, as pictured
below.
Wrap the running end around the two poles pulling it tight after each turn.

Do at least as many turns so that the lashing is the same length as the width
of the two poles.

Put the right loop over the left one.

Do frapping turns by passing the rope between the two poles at the right
side and then coming back up between them on the left. This should be hard
to do since you pulled the lashing turns tightly.

Put both loops over the object and pull the running and standing ends apart
to tighten the knot.
 Sheer Lashing
Clove Hitch Method 2
A sheer lashing is good for joining poles together in a parallel fashion.
Wrap the running end of the rope around the object you wish to tie onto so
Put two poles together side by side so they lay horizontal. Tie one clove
that the running end crosses over the standing end.
hitch around both the poles to the left of where you intend to make the rest
of the lashing.

Lay the short end horizontally between the two poles to the right of your
clove hitch so you will lash over them.

Wrap the running end around a second time and then pass it underneath
itself.
 Pull it tight as before.
Do three vertical turns and pull tight after each one. Your running end
finishes running vertically down.
Constrictor Knot
Do some frapping turns by passing the rope under then over each pole in an
anti-clockwise fashion. Keep it tight. Do three full rotations. By making a small adjustment in the way you tie the clove hitch you can
create the constrictor knot.

Tie the clove hitch as in method two but this time pass the running end
underneath the first turn before pulling it tight.

Finish it off with a clove hitch and trim if needed.

The constrictor knot is good when working with thin rope. It is considered Trim any access away and/or tuck it under the lashing.
more secure than the clove hitch but is harder to untie.

Diagonal Lashing

Diagonal lashing can be used when the poles do not cross at right angles. It
is also useful for when the poles need to be pulled toward each-other for
tying.

Cross two poles on top of each-other and tie a surgeon's knot around them
horizontally so that the running end is to the right.

Pass the running end back behind the poles so it is on the left side.

Cow Hitch

The cow hitch (a.k.a. lark’s head) is not a very secure knot but it is quick to
tie and useful when making nets and other rope constructions.

To ensure it does not work loose equal strain must be applied to both ends.

Create a bight in the rope by doubling it up. Pass this bight around the Bring the running end horizontally over and under the poles. Pull it tight.
object you want to tie onto. Do this three times.

The running end finishes on the left. Go over the bottom left pole and then
under the cross so it comes over the top vertically. Pull it tight.
Go over the left side of the horizontal and then under the top side of the Pull both ends of the rope through the bight you created. Pull them both
vertical and pull it tight. This is one frapping rotation. Do a total of three tight.
frapping rotations and then tie a clove hitch on the lower side of the vertical
pole.

When doing the clove hitch make sure you pull the first half hitch tight
before doing the second.

Cows Hitch With Toggle

This variation is useful when the two ends are secured and only the bight Pass the running end under the horizontal pole on the left side and pull it
can be passed around the object. tight so that the clove hitch slips to the right side of the vertical pole.

Pass the bight around the object and then put a toggle between the bight and Continue to pass the rope over the verticals and then under the horizontals
the standing ends to secure it in place. in this anti-clockwise fashion. Pull each pass tight as you go. Make three
full rotations.

The long end of the rope should finish having come underneath the right
side of the horizontal pole. Bring it back over the front of the horizontal
pole and then behind the lower end of the vertical pole. This is called
Reef Knot frapping. Pull it tight.
A reef knot (a.k.a. square knot) is a good binding knot which is easy to tie
and untie.

Many people may use the reef knot to join two ropes together. This is not
advised, especially if the rope will be bearing load. There are far better
joining knots which are specifically designed for the job.

To tie a reef knot put the rope around the object you want to bind.
 Take the left end and pass it over the right from the bottom and then tuck it
LASHING under the right end.

Lashing is used to join objects together. It becomes very useful during

construction.

For all lashing you will need quite a long running end.

Square Lashing

Square lashing is used to hold poles together at a 90° angle.

Place two poles together in a cross so that the vertical one is on top of the
horizontal one.

On the vertical pole, below the horizontal one, tie a clove hitch. Now take this new right end and cross it over the left end and then tuck it
Pass the running end under the horizontal pole (on the right side of the under.
vertical pole), then over the vertical one (on the upper side of the horizontal Pull the left strands and the right strands apart to tighten the knot.
pole).
An easy way to remember this is with the rhyme “left over right and under,
right over left and under.”

Surgeon’s Knot

A variation of the reef knot is the surgeon’s knot which is more secure.

To tie a surgeon’s knot, make an extra turn when tying the “left over right”
part. This keeps the knot in place while you tie the rest of the knot.

You could also make an extra turn in the “right over left” part to make it
even more secure.
 Round Turn and Two Half Hitches

This knot is fast to tie and very secure. It is also fairly easy to untie even
when placed under heavy strain.

To create the round turn, loop the running end of the rope around your
object so the rope completely encloses it.

It then loops over the top of the first rope and under itself.

Tighten by pulling both ends of the first rope away from the standing end of
the second rope.

Tie a half hitch by bringing the running end behind the standing end. Make
Double Sheet Bend a turn around the standing end and then thread it through the gap you made
between the running and standing ends.
The double sheet bend can be used when you want more security such as if
strain will be “on and off”, when the rope is wet, and/or if the ropes are of a
different thickness.

Making a double sheet bend is the same as a normal sheet bend except that
you loop the second rope around the first one a second time before tucking
it under itself.

When using ropes of a different thickness have the thinner one as rope two.
 Ensure that there is no cross-over in the rope and that the ends face in
opposite direction.

Pull on all ends to tighten.

Create a second half hitch in the same way ensuring it is underneath the
first half hitch. Pull both ends to tighten.

Sheet Bend

The sheet bend is a fast way to join two ropes together.

Create a bight in one of the ropes.

Pass the running end of the second rope through the bight.
 Timber Hitch
BENDS
The timber hitch is useful for securing any cylindrical object, e.g., a
Bends are used to join two or more lengths of rope together. This can be wooden log. It is secure when tension is applied but remains easy to untie
useful to repair broken rope or for creating a longer length from two shorter even after a heavy load.
ones.
It is great for pulling large objects and is also useful for attaching the string
on a longbow as well as on some instruments, e.g., guitar.
Figure 8 Bend
Loop the rope around the object. Bring the running end under and then back
The figure 8 bend is a fairly easy and secure way to join two ropes together. over the standing end. Wrap the running end around itself (between the rope
It is also good for making a prusik loop of rope which can be used for and the object) three or four times.
ascending (see the Survival Roping Techniques bonus chapter).

It is best done with ropes of equal width especially if it will hold a critical
load.

Tie a loose figure 8 in the end of one of the ropes.

With the other rope follow the path of the original figure 8 (in a similar
fashion to the threaded figure 8).

Pull it tight.

When using the timber hitch to haul/hoist something you can add some half
hitches towards the hauling end. This will keep the load straight while you
pull it.
 Pull down as much as possible to tighten the load down and then tie the
rope off on itself with a couple of half hitches.

Trucker’s Hitch Variation

The trucker’s hitch is a simple tension system which is great to use to

secure a load on a vehicle, hold down a roof, make a tent guy line super
tight, etc.

There are a few ways to do a trucker’s hitch. This method uses a

combination knots that have already appeared in this book.

Secure one end of the rope (clove hitch, round turn and two half hitches,
bow line, etc.) to whatever you are securing the load to.

Wrap the running end over the object you wish to secure and then back
down.

About two thirds up this line create a fixed loop, e.g., a butterfly loop.

Pass the running end under a secure point and then back up through the
fixed loop you made.