VICTORIAN BRANCH ABSEILING COUNCIL

Abseiling Leader Manual – Guides (Adv)+

Module 10 - Rescue Techniques

Table of Contents
10.1 INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................. 3

10.2 ASSESSMENT OF AN INCIDENT / ACCIDENT ............................................................ 3

10.3 EMERGENCY SITUATIONS ............................................................................................. 3

10.3.1 ESCORTED RUNS ................................................................................ 4
10.3.2 PARTICIPANTS FREEZING ON LINE (LAP RESCUE) .............................................. 5
10.4 CAUGHT HAIR AND CLOTHING.................................................................................... 6

10.5 MAJOR INCIDENTS ........................................................................................................... 7

10.5.1 INCIDENT AUDIT PROCEDURE ............................................................................ 7
10.6 RECOVERY / SELF-RESCUE............................................................................................ 9
10.6.1 KNOT BY-PASS ................................................................................ 9
10.6.2 LINE TRANSFER .............................................................................. 10
10.6.3 SELF BELAY .............................................................................. 11
10.7 RESCUE TECHNIQUES & SERIOUS ACCIDENTS .................................................... 11
10.7.1 SERIOUS ACCIDENTS .............................................................................. 11
10.8 UP RESCUE......................................................................................................................... 12
10.8.1 METHODS OF AN UP RESCUE............................................................................ 13
10.8.2 RESCUE FRAMES AND THERE USE..................................................................... 13
10.9 MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE - SIMPLE...................................................................... 15
10.9.1 MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE – MULTIPLE SYSTEM ........................................... 18
10.9.2 SAFETY AND SAFE WORKING LOADS IS IN SCOUTING ..................................... 19
10.10 LOWERING RESCUE ................................................................................................... 20

10.11 UNCONSCIOUS / INCAPACITATED PARTICIPANTS .......................................... 21

10.12 THE USE OF STRETCHERS IN RECOVERIES....................................................... 23

10.12.1 STRETCHERS INTRODUCTION ........................................................................... 23
10.12.2 PRINCIPAL OF STRETCHER USE ........................................................................ 24
10.12.3 RIGGING AND LOADING A STRETCHER ............................................................. 24
10.12.4 RIGGING OF A STRETCHER 25
10.12.5 ROLE OF THE STRETCHER ESCORTING LEADER ............................................... 26
10.12.6 UNESCORTED STRETCHERS ............................................................................. 26

Table of Figures
Figure 10.1 Lap Rescue / Escort........................................................................................ 5
Figure 10.2 Escort Position ................................................................................................. 6
Figure 10.3 Don't Cut the Rope !!!....................................................................................... 7
Figure 10.4 Knot By-Pass ................................................................................................. 10
Figure 10.5 Prusik Knot..................................................................................................... 11
Figure 10.6 French prusik Knot......................................................................................... 11
Figure 10.7 Klienhiest Knot ............................................................................................... 11
Figure 10.8 Industrial Tripod as used in Rescue Lifting .................................................... 13

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Figure 10.9 Larkin Rescue Frame..................................................................................... 14

Figure 10.10 SRT OzPod Rescue Frame ......................................................................... 15
Figure 10.11 Armstrong Technique MA 1:1 ...................................................................... 15
Figure 10.12 MA 2:1 direct................................................................................................ 15
Figure 10.13 MD 1:1 direct ............................................................................................... 15
Figure 10.14 MA 2:1 Explained......................................................................................... 16
Figure 10.15 MD 1:1 Explained......................................................................................... 16
Figure 10.16 MA 3:1 open design ..................................................................................... 16
Figure 10.17 MA 3:1 closed design................................................................................... 16
Figure 10.18 Twin Resuce Pulley ...................................................................................... 17
Figure 10.19 MD 5:1 .......................................................................................................... 17
Figure 10.20 Table of Mechanical Advantage / DisAdventage ......................................... 18
Figure 10.21 MA 6:1 Multiple System ............................................................................... 18
Figure 10.22 MA 2:1 of 6:1 Multiple System ..................................................................... 19
Figure 10.23 MA 3:1 of 6:1 Multiple System ..................................................................... 19
Figure 10.24 Controlled Lower.......................................................................................... 20
Figure 10.25 Unconscious Rescue ................................................................................... 21
Figure 10.26 SKED Litter .................................................................................................. 24
Figure 10.27 Flexible Litter laid out ................................................................................... 25
Figure 10.28 Corrected Loaded Flexible Litter.................................................................. 25
Figure 10.29 Stokes Rigid Stretcher ................................................................................. 26
Figure 10.30 Stokes showing Lift Frame........................................................................... 26

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10.1 Introduction
The application of Rescue Techniques and their use in various Emergency Situations is a
very grey area since Rescue organisations are very protective of their rescue techniques
and perceived responsibility. We, as the Scout Association are NOT classed as nor do we
pretend to be a rescue organisation. BUT as an Abseiling Leader you must know enough
to recovery yourself and your students / participants from the cliff face. One of the main
requirements for an Leader is safety and this includes the ability to get yourself out of
trouble.

If the your group is faced with a serious injury requiring specialised first aid, evacuation
equipment, or if there is any doubt about the ability of the group to effect a safe rescue, the
problem is best left to an experienced, professional rescue group e.g. SES, MFB High
Angle Rescue or the Police Search and Rescue.

Before making a decision, be absolutely confident of the outcome. A mistake may kill the
person being rescued or violate the first rule of rescue:
Don't become a victim yourself
and the first rule of providing aid:
Don't increase or cause additional injury.

Do NOT exceed your capabilities or you may become a victim yourself.

The first area to be considered is that of Emergency Situations and assessment. In the
majority of cases you will be confronted with a situation which is not life threatening,
although the person involved probably won't agree.

The actual rescue techniques are discussed later in this module.

10.2 Assessment of an Incident / Accident

In the case of any incident, the situation must be assessed for the degree of difficulty and
the resources available to the group. The questions that must be answered are:

1. Is the participant injured or simply unable or unwilling to move

2. If they are stuck or simply stopped:

• Can the participant recover, and continue with minimal help (verbal or physical)?

3. Can the Leaders (you), without endangering anyone else in the group achieve the
rescue and treatment of the victim?

4. Is experienced outside help required?

5. Should the group start the rescue while outside help is sent for, take the advice of the
First Aider into consideration.

6. If in doubt, call in the experts.

10.3 Emergency Situations

An Emergency Situation on an Abseiling site is not always a life or death situation. A

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situation may be that the participant is scared or worried about going over the edge. Try
and remember what it was like the first time for you, the mix f fear and excitement. Many
people have a real fear of heights, and if not heights the prospect of actually falling. The
natural human reaction to a 'danger' situation is fear or flight.

Someone new to the sport of abseiling has no real idea about how strong the gear is and
the safety factors which we have built in to our activity and are virtually unseen by us as
Leaders. Some Leaders have a tendency to throw things together as 'they know what
they are doing'. There have been cases of Leaders have fallen as a result of the old
'Familiarity Breads Contempt' mind set.

Some Leaders know its safe and ignore or regard as stupid first timers fears. This is the
easiest way to stop someone enjoying the experience, try to see things form the
participants view point and avoid being bull-headed or uncaring of their very real fears.
Don't become complacent as you can easily 'stuff-up' yourself. Watch what you do, and
understand the participants fears. This will help you stay grounded in the application of a
safe and enjoyable activity.

Remember that even when someone knows the technical specifications, their natural fear
can and does sometime take over and all they can see is a fall and injury.

10.3.1 Escorted runs

The most common problem with a group of people, who have not abseiled before, is their
lack of confidence. Many people will often get harnessed up and be connected to the line
only to get to edge and then decide that they do not want to do it. Normally a few
encouraging words are enough to get them to going others will literally freeze on the edge.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES are these people to be goaded or ridiculed simply bring

them back to a safe point and disconnect them from the line. After letting them see the rest
of the group go through without any problems, most will try to give it another go.

If they are still unsure, offer to go down with them. The presence of another person going
with them is all it sometimes takes to start building up their self-confidence. In this situation
we are taking about an Escorted Run. The Escort is simply a way of giving someone that
extra little bit of support to get going.

Often the Leader will assume the descent position and have the student get into position
and 'sit on the Leaders knee'. As they become confident you can often move away from
them while keeping control of their line until they are ready to descend individually.

Do not create a problem for yourself by offering to do escorted runs without first trying
some other alternatives. In a young group, once the first Escort is done, everybody wants
one.

To undertake the Lap Rescue the Leader should use the safety line and connect a sling
between the Carabiners on both harnesses, normally using a pair of spare biners. If you
use the main biner you cannot disconnect from the student if the need arises, also if they
gain enough confidence to try converting to an Escort you have no way out of the Lap
Rescue until the next descent. Also in most situation you have had to descend to the
participant to undertake the Lap Rescue. Remember, if is unsafe to open a loaded
carabiner as this can cause the gear to fail.

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Figure 10.1 Lap Rescue / Escort

Again, the main difference between the two versions is that an Escort is simply that, the
intent is to move away once they are over the edge and going. Whereas in the Lap
Rescue you have basically committed to bringing them down. In some instances, a
converted type of Lap Rescue can retrieve an injured student when they are conscious.

Beware however, as with a freeze on line, the student may well lash out and make a grab
for you, it's a normal human reaction to fear, to grab the life line that's shown to them.
Logic goes out the window and they think that by grabbing hold they will be OK, never
realising that they can pull you down as well when they fall.

Always be on guard for your own safety. If you're incapacitated, you can't help them or
yourself.

10.3.2 Participants freezing on line (Lap Rescue)

This is the most likely to happen with people Abseiling for the first time. Some people you
will be able to talk through the situation and they can extract themselves, others will
require your intervention to get them out of their predicament. When it happens, the first
thing to do is to get the Brakeman to pull down on the line rope to stop the participant from
falling.

If you have to go down to your student, be very aware of what is happening. Believe me,
the 'drowning man syndrome' will come to life and if you give a distressed student the
chance they can and will make a grab for you. Be aware that they can be completely
scared and panicky, watch them whilst reassuring them that it’s all right. Try telling them
stories to distract them and watch for jumpy reactions.

A "frozen" participant will start to panic and want to bring their brake hand from behind
their back to hold on to the rope with both hands above the descender. Quickly abseil
down beside the participant using the safety rope; while reassuring the participant at the

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same time. At this point you have two options.

1. Connect a sling between the carabiners on

both harnesses and continue as an Escorted
Run. This will give the participant the feeling of
control with the added security of being attached
to an Leader.

2. Move behind the participant and sit the

participant down on your lap, put an arm around
their waist to secure them. The Brakeman or
additional Brakeman should control your line as
well as the participant's line for safety. Descend
slowly down to the ground supporting the
participant on your lap.

Figure 10.2 Escort Position

In the second option, if the participant regains their composure, the Lap Rescue by change
to a Walk Down. That is where the participant can control their rate of descent,
demonstrates the ability to proceed and the Leader may move to their side and slowly
away so that the participant may proceed on their own. The staged separation is at the
participants' consent only. The Walk Down is similar to the Escorted Run, however there is
no connecting sling between the Abseilers.

10.4 Caught Hair and Clothing

If you find that one of your participants has got their hair or clothing caught in a Figure 8
descender and is unable to free themselves, YOU WILL have to descend down next to the
participant and try to free their hair or clothing out of the Figure 8 descender. Failing that,
the only solution is to cut the offending article out of the descender. But remember the
best solution to the problem is not to let it happen in the first place.

Options:
1. Attach a sling between your carabiner and the participants, then support the
participant's weight by attaching a prussic loop with a sling attached above the
descender on your line for them to stand in, once the tension is released on the rope,
then try to remove the offending article.

2. If the hair or clothing will not pull free, you may need to cut the item away. This is
inherently dangerous due to the possibility of accidentally cutting the participants line.
Further, the participant may panic if they see a knife.

3. The use of shears or guarding the knife from the line and student should allow for
cutting if required without undue concern. In cutting, the life line, their descent rope
must be protected, as such when cutting hair, make the cut close to the scalp so as to
avoid damaging the decent line, similarly with caught clothing.

NOTE:
If all other methods fail in trying to free the person, there one is final solution which should
be used only as a final resort, and that is to cut away the rope supporting the person. This
should only be done after the person has been transferred or secured to another

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rope or person.

When this has been done, very carefully cut the rope in the direction away from all other
ropes. But remember that rope under tension cuts like a hot knife through butter.

Figure 10.3 Don't Cut the Rope !!!

10.5 Major Incidents

This is the thing that we all dread. You must realise that Abseiling is an inherently
dangerous sport conducted at height around rocks; a fall can injure or kill a participant.
Remember to follow the rules of safety and that your team remains alert and changed over
regularly. We don't want any form of accident in scouting especially a death; they all
should be preventable.

Treat as for a serious accident, and follow the Incident Audit Procedure (see section below
10.5.1) but leave all equipment in place. Do not assume that a person is dead. You are not
qualified to certify death so you must continue all reasonable efforts to keep the person
alive or to revive them until they are officially pronounced deceased.

If you have followed your training and carried out your duties as required we would support
you wholeheartedly. But if you have contravened the policies laid out in this manual or
committed a breach of safety you may well find the V.B.A.C. being summoned to give
evidence against you or your actions.

10.5.1 Incident Audit Procedure

In the event of an incident occurring, the Branch Youth Council has developed an Incident
Audit Procedure. This procedure is designed for incidents involving serious injury, loss or
near loss of life, or parties significantly overdue. It has already proved valuable in
vindicating the actions of leaders in an emergency situation.

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What is an incident? How bad is it before we have to follow the procedure? To answer
both questions, an incident is anything the can, would, should or could be reported to
another Leader or Scouter, reported due to an accident or an occurrence which is outside
of the accepted practises of the Scout Association when conducting youth activities. The
incident does not simply refer to accidents, but occurrences, which may be interpreted by
an outsider as physically or morally objectionable. Simply remember your 'Duty of Care'
and approach it in a mature and considered manner.

This procedure has been discussed and approved by Area, Region and Branch
Commissioners and become a working Branch Strategy Policy. This policy was modified
on the 1st of December 1998 and released in the 1999 Info Book and is set out as follows:

It is intended that an Incident Audit Procedure will be implemented immediately upon

the occurrence of any such an Incident and be seen as a normal and expected
1
formality, rather than uncharacteristic or 'ad-hoc' response.

Upon receiving advice of the occurrence of an incident involving Scouting personnel

participating in a Scouting event, the designated Branch Commissioner, currently
2 Graeme Cumbrae-Stewart, Branch Commissioner for Activities & Management
Services, will decide whether or not to implement the Incident Audit Procedure.

In the event of an affirmative decision, an Audit Panel will be appointed by the

3 Branch Commissioner.

The audit is to be seen as a co-operative procedure, to establish an accurate picture

of the incident, to learn from the occurrence and to maximise fairness for all
4
concerned.

Copies of all relevant paperwork must be submitted upon request.

5
Policy and / or guidelines relevant to the incident will be examined, e.g: Australian
6 Policy and Rules, Branch Policy / Guidelines.

Meeting(s) will be called of the Audit Panel and the key individuals involved in the
incident, to determine:
• All relevant details of the incident, including preparation and equipment selected
for the activity during which the incident occurred; whether relevant notification
had been given to appropriate authorities, egg: Group Leader, Police, National
7 Parks etc; the extent of the experience, training and skills of the leaders involved
in the activity,
• Media involvement if any.
• Police or Search and Rescue involvement, if any.
• Post-incident communications with home contact, e.g. GL, parents, etc.
Personal fitness and competence of the participants.
A final written report, including recommendations for subsequent action will be
made. (If considered necessary or prudent, this will be withheld from release until
8
after a report by any statutory, lawfully appointed or other responsible body has
been made public.)
The report will be discussed with the personnel involved as well as with relevant
9
Commissioners unless the BC otherwise determines.
The report will be forwarded to the relevant personnel for appropriate and prompt
10
follow-up action.

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On completion of its enquiries and report, the BC will declare the Audit Panel to
11
have fulfilled its purpose and be formally disbanded.

The office hours of the Scout Association of Australia, Victorian Branch is 9am to 5pm,
Monday to Friday and the Executive Director and General Secretary can be contacted for
assistance on (03) 9349 2500 or 1800 640 454.

Incidents involving loss of life, serious injury or missing persons MUST be reported
immediately as shown above or below and to Graeme Cumbrae-Stewart on (03) 9878
2068 AH or (03) 9694 6454 BH.

However, members of the Movement requiring assistance following an incident, after

hours, and especially at weekends should telephone (0418) 582 565.

For assistance in dealing with the media and / or Police after office hours, phone the
Branch Commissioner, Public Relations, (0418) 582 564.

Note: It is far preferable for trained personnel to deal with the media than it is for
inexperienced leaders to attempt to do so. Therefore, phone 0418 582 564, and give the
facts to the Public Relations personnel first, and let them deal with it. To do otherwise is to
create an unacceptable risk of adverse media exposure and possible liability for those
directly involved.

Incident Audit Procedure Re-issued 1st December 1998, as published in Scouts Info Book
1999, Victorian BHQ.

10.6 Recovery / Self-Rescue

Self-rescue is the immediate action taken by a person to remove themselves from a

dangerous situation. Self-rescue is based on a person's skill, knowledge and self-reliance.

Self-rescue, in rope related activities, requires a person to have a good working knowledge
and skills in the following:

• Knots and Rope techniques

• Descending techniques
• Ascending techniques

10.6.1 Knot By-pass

Knot by-pass is a self-rescue technique that requires a person to use all of the above
knowledge and skills. A knot can occur at any time in an abseil rope and poses a difficult
problem to an Abseiler if he or she cannot carry out a self-rescue. If the skills are
possessed, the Abseiler may ascend back up the rope or carry out a knot by-pass and
continue to abseil.

When Abseiling on long multi pitch routes a person must be in possession of two
accessory cords so they can perform the self-rescue technique.

The procedure for knot by-pass is as follows when the Abseiler is in possession of two
accessory cords:

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1. Abseil to approximately 1 to 11/2 metres above the knot.

2. Lock off the descending device
3. Using an accessory cord place a prussic loop on the descending rope at between
shoulder and eye level.
4. Attach the other end of the prussic loop to a carabiner, and then clip into the carabiner
on the harness.
5. Unlock the descending device and descend down until the prussic loop becomes tight
and weight is off the descender.
6. Remove the descender from the rope.
7. Place the descender back onto the rope below the knot and lock off the descender.
8. Using another accessory cord place a prussic loop above the knot, but below the
upper prussic loop, place one foot in the lower loop to take weight off the upper prussic
loop and remove the upper prussic loop and attach to harness.
9. Slowly put weight on the descender till there is no weight on the lower prussic loop,
remove and attach to harness.
10. Unlock descender and continue descent.

Figure 10.4 Knot By-Pass

10.6.2 Line Transfer

A Line Transfer / Change can be a self-rescue technique or simply a method of completing
a multi-pitch descent. There are two (2) types of line change:

• When the change occurs on a ledge onto an independent rope system and does not
the continuous connection to line for safety
• When the Line Transfer occurs while still suspended due to a problem with the original
line which was damaged below or was for some reason impassable.

Refer to the section on Techniques (Module 9) for a description of the process of Line
Transfer. The Line Transfer Techniques is very similar to the Knot By-Pass. The difference
is that once you lock on Line A, you then attach to Line B rather than over and under the
knot. Practice of this technique in a safe, managed environment is recommended, as the
technique is very dangerous and outwardly hard if never previously attempted.

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10.6.3 Self Belay

The Self-Belay is normally a form a descent where there is no Brakeman at the base of the
cliff to protect the Abseiler in the case of anything occurring. The Self-Belay can also be
utilised as a back-up system where there are doubts concerning a descent and an
additional margin of safety is called for.

Practically, the Self-Belay uses the prussic knot as an optional the safety device to prevent
accidental falling. The prussic knot is positioned on the abseiling line above the figure 8
descender and connected to the carabiner attached to the harness. The Abseiler will then
place their hand above the prussic knot and drag the knot down as they go. It is ideal for
use on long descents where a brakeman may be ineffective.

Figure 10.5 Prusik Knot

How to tie the prusik Knot,

The line may be passed around 3 or 4 times to support
heavy weight or provide greater grip on the line.
Figure 10.6 French prusik Knot
The one disadvantage of this system is when a student slips and the prussic knot grips
tightly, the student may not be able to raise them selves up to loosen the prussic knot to
continue.
An alternative to the prussic Knot is the French prussic shown above,
which is not a true Prussic knot but it bears a close resemblance to the
Klienhiest Knot shown to the right. Both are suitable alternative to the
standard prussic Knot and operate in a similar way when weight is applied.
Under load they lock to the line but can be easily moved when the weight
is taken from them. The difference between the French Prussic is that
both ends of the cord connect into a single carabiner, whereas with the
Klienhiest the cords pass through each other first.

The Klienhiest as with the Backmann Knot are used in making a rope
ascender. They double for a purchased mechanical device.

Figure 10.7 Klienhiest Knot

10.7 Rescue Techniques & Serious Accidents

10.7.1 Serious Accidents
As a Leader faced with an emergency there are a number of responsibilities and duties,

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which must be considered. First and foremost is the safety and well being of all the
participants under your control. Not only do you need to consider the rescue of the abseiler
who is in possible danger; you also must ensure the safety of the rest of the group. Do not
merely charge off over the edge to rescue the participant in distress, consider what you
may require in the way of equipment, and also send someone for outside help if you think
it may be necessary. If you have an unconscious or seriously injured participant then you
are going to need an ambulance, do take the advice of the first aider into consideration.
Err on the cautious side rather than the careless. Use the most competent and
experienced person available to effect the rescue and control the brake, this is not a
chance to gain experience in something you haven't done before, that is best left to a
training exercise under controlled conditions.

If you decide that the rescue is beyond your capabilities and decide to call in the experts
then you must remain and provide any assistance that they request. Do not get in the way;
allow them to carry out their task unhindered by any of your party.

When performing rescues of any type you must take into consideration that there is a
natural feeling of concern for the person in jeopardy by both their leaders and their peers.
This concern may lead them to do things that could endanger other members of the group
or your team. The best way to avoid these problems is to give them something to do, (e.g.
look after the rest of the group) in an area removed from the abseiling site. Above all do
not panic!! Remain calm and this will help the team to function better, panic and you may
have more than one casualty.

A serious accident (any injury which requires off site treatment) on site means that you will
be required to close down the activity. The confidence of the group and your team will be
shaken and it is best that you call it a day rather than trying to coax frightened and possibly
unwilling participants over the edge. As an Abseiling Leader you will be required to
complete an accident report sheet (see attachments), use the Incident Audit Procedure
(see section 10.5.1) as a guide, giving full details of the activity and any injury. You will
need to make at least 4 copies of the report, 1 to V.B.A.C., 1 to the D.C., 1 to your group
leader, and keep 1 for yourself. Keep all information about the accident.

10.8 Up Rescue
When is it a situation that demands the use of a top recovery of the Abseiler, or when
should the use of the Up Rescue be used on an Abseiling site? The answer is very simple,
in that the situation does not allow for the safe lowering of the Abseiler. This could be a
result of insufficient braking staff at the bottom of the cliff face, obstructions below the
Abseiler or some other situation, which will stop the safe lowering of the injured party. It
must be born in mind however, that where circumstances allow for a genuine choice to be
made, the lowing of the patient is almost always simpler, quicker and safer than any form
of 'Up Rescue'.

In whatever circumstances that arise, the correct and safe recovery of the Abseiler must
be made without any further injury being inflicted or possible danger being applied to any
Abseiling Leader involved in the recovery. This of course also applies to any other person
on the site be it another Abseiler of observer present. During the recovery all normal safety
concerns for others on site must be observed. This relates to be clearing of the immediate
area of unnecessary personnel. Together with curious on-lookers, the removal of other
participants to a different part of the site, control of parents or concerned individuals.

Followed by the assessment of any possible injuries once the Abseiler has been reached
by the Leader conducting the recovery, arrangement for the First Aid if needed and any

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other normal operations in an emergency situation.

10.8.1 Methods of an Up Rescue.

There are a number of different methods in Up Rescue. As shown in the criteria, the
various methods should be known and participants should be aware of all the options
available to them. Of all the different methods it is extremely unlikely that Abseiling
Leaders within the Scout Association or those who work with youth groups such as the
Victorian Branch Abseiling Council members would have access to the following types of
top recovery or Up Rescue:

• Recovery using a helicopter combined with an electric hoist and litter or stretcher
• A recovery using a back board, litter, Rescue Tripod or simpler type equipment
• Any recovery utilising expensive or rarely required specialist equipment.

It is anticipated that most Abseiling Leaders will only had access to a limiting amount of
equipment within their normal abseiling gear and recovery equipment. Normally this would
constitute prussic cords, slings, a number of spare carabiners, mechanical belay devices
[Figure 8, Sticht Plate, Robot, Tuber, etc.], and a supply of Rescue Pulleys.

As such it would be normally accepted that some form of hauling system would be used on
normal scout type abseil sites were an Up Rescue is required to be undertaken. It is not a
requirement that Abseiling Leaders within Scout Groups could have access to or the
budget to purchase specialist recovery equipment.

10.8.2 Rescue Frames and there use

Figure 10.8 Industrial Tripod as used in Rescue Lifting

The most basic type of frame used in any lifting activity is the basic Industrial Tripod. This
type of unit is design to sit over the weight and lift with the load directly supported from the
centre anchorage point. Whilst very strong, they have limited use on cliff based activities
due to their design limitations.

In cliff based rescues a frame that allows for the weight to be supported over the edge so

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that direct contact with the rock face is the requirement. There are a number of units on
the market which allow for the type of use, we will look at two versions:

The Larkin Rescue Frame

Figure 10.9 Larkin Rescue Frame

The Larkin Rescue Frame is probably the most well known frame thanks to Australian
Television series such as the ABC Police Rescue and the use by a number of SES Units
in the various states. The frames design makes it possible to place right at the edge of the
drop, be it a building, tower or cliff face. Any slippage on a firm surface can be minimised
by picking out a small locating hole for each hinge spike. On soft ground the optional soft
ground feet can be fitted and a star picket driven through the triangular hole. If for any
reason the hinge spike cannot be used the Larkin Rescue Frame is still very stable and
any slippage of the base will always be AWAY from the drop.

It is not necessary to leave any space between the edge and the Larkin Rescue Frame for
landing the stretcher and outrider. The Larkin Rescue Frame is designed so that the
stretcher and outrider can be landed within the frame. In addition to its use full size the
design of the Larkin Rescue Frame permits it to be assembled half size for use in confined
spaces, or where a long reach is not required. It can also be used as a tripod or as an A
frame support for tarpaulin or similar.

The frame is designed with a 50mm Rescue Pulley and in it’s basic design delviers a 2:1
mechanical hauling advantage. The frame itself is designed to tip back from the edge of
the drop whereby ease of access to the lifted weight is made. Add to the use of a winch
or grinder and the hauling power is increased as is the ease of operation.

The SRT OZPod Rescue Frame

The next type of frame is one made by Single Rope Techniques (SRT) their OZPod
Rescue frame. This appears somewhat similar to the Larkin but closer inspection you
begin to notice that there are differences in the design. The purpose and general uses are
the same, its just a different way of providing the over edge support.

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Figure 10.10 SRT OzPod Rescue Frame

10.9 Mechanical Advantage - Simple

Simply put, Mechanical Advantage is the term given when the use of pulleys and/or levers
is made to increase the lifting, hauling or pulling power. Doesn't help, look at it this way
imagine you have to a heavy object you
want to move, simply tying a rope to it
like this:
Doesn't work, in fact it's really hard work.
This is a rig without any mechanical
advantage. In other words it's a direct
Figure 10.11 Armstrong Technique MA 1:1 pull, called the 'Armstrong Technique'
(giving a MA 1:1=0)

We want to move the object but not have to use the same weight in pressure and energy
as the object, this is mechanical advantage, now try this:

OK, say the object is 100kg; we only need 50kg of

energy to move it. You got it, we have Mechanical
Advantage, in this case it's a 2:1 advantage.
Looks easy well have a look at the following
picture and think about what it is:
Figure 10.12 MA 2:1 direct
Looks similar, but its not the same, in fact
its what is called a Mechanical
Disadvantage. This isn't a bad thing as we
use disadvantage all the time when we use
pulleys to change the direction of hauling.
It makes the job easier, but in the example
Figure 10.13 MD 1:1 direct it is still a 1:1 relationship. So how does
Mechanical Advantage add-up?

There are two ways of working out the Mechanical Advantage, in a simple system just
counts the number of lines connected to the object to be moved does it. In complex rigs
it’s a matter of adding up the tension applied overall.

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So simple first and we will use our 2:1 example:

Figure 10.14 MA 2:1 Explained

In this 2:1 example you can see that the weight is directly attached via a pulley and that
there are two lines in contact. As the weight is the object we are applying force against,
each line works in together with the other, hence a 1 line (top 1) plus 1 line (bottom 2)
equals 2, so 2:1.

OK then, the Disadvantage rig example, compare this to the 2:1; the pulley is attached to
the anchor point, not the object to be moved. This means that the amount of energy being
applied is via one line only, not 2 line as above. There's a pulley involved all right, but it's
simply a friction point. In most cases this friction point acts as a redirection to lessen the
work in the actual haul but doesn't add another line to the rig, so its a 1:1Disadvantage rig.

Figure 10.15 MD 1:1 Explained

Following along so far, good then lets continue, but if you are unclear about the difference
between advantage and disadvantage please review the last 2 pages before continuing.

Keeping things simple, lets look at how we can achieve something a little stronger than the
basic 2:1 hauling rig.

Figure 10.16 MA 3:1 open design

This is a 3:1 rig; you will notice that counting the lines there are 3 in contact with the weight
to be moved. In this design, we have used 2 single pulleys, but a number of rescue pulleys
also have a connecting lug on the inside, could we make use of this, sure can....

Figure 10.17 MA 3:1 closed design

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This is also a 3:1 rig, connecting the pulley to the weight via the primary attachment point,
and then starting the hauling system at the secondary point the line traverses to another
single pulley then returns around the main pulley before leaving the system. So, again 3
lines are in contact, so a 3:1 rig.

Quick question for you, see if you can answer without skipping to the next paragraph.
Carefully look at each picture, figure the position of the pulleys and divergence from the
straight rope path. Which is an advantage rig and which is a disadvantage rig?

Yes, it was a trick question they are both advantage rigs. In order for either to be a
disadvantage we would need another friction point outside of the primary hauling system.
The purpose of that is to give an offset that we would use in restricted spaces or to get
away from trees and obstacles.

So have you got the idea yet? The number of lines involved at the loaded end of the
system allows you to calculate the Mechanical Advantage or ease of the haul. But how far
can we go??

The problem presents itself with the gear you carry as part of your normal kit and what is
commonly available for sale. Practically speaking, the largest rescue pulleys normally
sold have two rope sleeves and a primary and secondary
attachment point.

So, what does this mean to us? This is where the limits of a
simple hauling system can end. Using the most commonly
available gear the general advantage what we see in hauling
systems is a 4:1 rigging. In fact, there are a number of Figure 10.18 Twin Resuce
commercially sold rescue systems, sold having two rope Pulley
sleeves and a primary and secondary attachment point such as the SRT RescueMate.

So, what does this mean to us? This is where the limits of a
simple hauling system can end. Using the most commonly
available gear the general advantage we see in hauling system
is a 4:1 rigging. In fact, there are a number of commercially sold
rescue systems, including those in a tripod configuration that are
4:1 systems. So is this what we are limited to?

The answer of course is, no. If you have access to a 3-way

pulley you of course will use it. Outside of this, we start to leave
the simple system and enter the area of the Multiplying or a
Piggyback system where working out the advantage is a little
harder, but still fairly straight forward. Using multiple systems
allows us to achieve some very high advantages.

But let's quickly examine the table of Mechanical Advantage and

Disadvantage in a simple system.

Figure 10.19 MD 5:1

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Figure 10.20 Table of Mechanical Advantage / DisAdventage

10.9.1 Mechanical Advantage – Multiple System

So what is a Multiple or Piggyback Hauling System? Basically it is a combination of one
or more simple systems working together to increase the available Mechanical Advantage,
which cannot be achieved easily with the equipment available to you.

Let's look at an easy Multiple system to see how it works:

Figure 10.21 MA 6:1 Multiple System

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You will notice that we have added line to show the separation of the two simple rigs at the
prussic loop attachment. This separator between the two rigs marks the division for our
multiple system.
Lets look at part 'A' of the system. We can see from
what we have learned that this is a 2:1 rig as the load
has 2 lines active.

Lets look at part 'B' then:

Counting the active lines, we can see this is a 3:1 rig.
So, to work out the Mechanical Advantage of the
entire system, we need to examine each part.

MA = (A) x (B)

= 2:1 x 3:1 Figure 10.23 MA 3:1 of

= 6:1 6:1 Multiple System
Figure 10.22 MA 2:1 of 6:1 Multiple System

When using a Simple System we can normally achieve a Mechanical Advantage of 7

although 4 is the usual maximum which is used most often mainly due to the gear
available. In a simple disadvantage system, the maximum MA we can achieve is 6. If we
want or need to increase this, we would then use a Multiple or Piggyback system where
we combine various simple systems to achieve our goal.

But, there's always a but. There comes a point where it is foolish to attempt to gain more
out of a hauling system. Normally you should never have a need to exceed a 10:1 system.
The other consideration is every multiple system there is a connection of rigs. This
connection limits the actual hauling distance of the entire system. We recommend that
you gather together your gear and practice hauling systems to find the design that suits
you best.

10.9.2 Safety and Safe Working Loads Is in Scouting

The measurement of safe working load that we use in scouting is 10% of the known or
calculated breaking strain of the anchor systems, knots, ropes tapes and slings, carabiners
and other equipment used in any given scenario. This varies from that which is used in
industry or which is taught in formal educational courses or in workplace courses. The
reason for this is twofold:

• The figure of 10% of the known value is easier to calculate and understand for
participants
• 10% as a measurement of S.W.L is more than that commonly used and offers a
greater margin of safety

The same is true in regard to our understanding and the way the strength of a given piece
of equipment is calculated. As identified earlier in the manual the measurement of
strength of equipment is expressed in kilonewtons of energy whereas we can do this to
kilogram’s of weight. The direct conversion of kilonewtons to kilograms is not exact,
however the benefit is in our favour due to the physics of mechanical strength. It is not
possible within the confines of the Scout Abseiling Leader course to teach the physics of
mechanical working; neither do we expect persons undertaking the course to be
mechanical engineers or to undertake a further course of study. As such the values we

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use provide the benefit in our calculations and now accepted as correct within the confines
of the recreational sport of Abseiling.

10.10 Lowering Rescue

The lowering of an injured, unconscious or incapacitated Abseiler is always the less risky
of all recovery methods. This is the first and best option in any rescue, if the injured party
can be safety recovered by a controlled lower, then do it. This way you don't risk anyone
else or yourself by adding more elements to a problem. Try and keep it simple. Remember
that the person lowering should be fully skilled in the art of Braking; it may be necessary to
have the Leader controlling the base take over the line.
In order to safely achieve this there are a number of elements that must be meet:

Figure 10.24 Controlled Lower

• The Brakeman is of a sufficient skill level to Control a free lowering. (May need to be
the base control Leader)

• The base of the site has ease of access.

• Sufficient room is available at the base to lower and treat the injured participant.

• The site is such that it is possible to lower the participant, no ledges or obstructions to
cause additional injury.

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10.11 Unconscious / Incapacitated participants

If your abseiling participant is knocked unconscious or incapacitated by falling debris or by

accident e.g. by loosing their footing and crashing head first into the cliff face. Then you
may need to do a full unconscious rescue. This involves many elements and many
different type of solution to suit the situation and conditions. The following is not the only
way to do it, or in some circumstance the best way, it is a guide and common sense
should prevail.

Remember, to safe guard yourself and your brakeman, you don't want to become the
second victim and the brakeman is your and the injured lifeline.

1. First, can the Control Lowering recovery work here. Have the
Brakeman slowly move away from the cliff face, then slowly slacken off
the tension on the line, do not feed it out, this should allow the casualty
to descend at a controlled rate. Note: Inexperienced Brakemen
should be replaced with competent Leaders

2. As the participant is being lowered, any personnel available at the

bottom of the site should be brought in to help the Brakeman maintain
the controlled descent. An area where the participant can be safely
landed should be cleared of any rubble so as they will not have to be
moved, and the personnel, preferably including the First Aider, gently
lower the participant into the lateral recovery position. Remove the
carabiner, figure 8 descender and rope from the participant if possible,
and allow the First Aider to commence treatment.

3. If the participant gets caught on the cliff face, or the descent is not
able to continue (e.g. something jamming the descent), have the
Brakeman apply tension to the line, then the Jumpmaster will be
required to descend down and rescue the unconscious participant.
Before descending the Jumpmaster should be confidant that he/she can
effect the rescue safely and that he/she is in possession of all the
equipment necessary. This will be a time of high stress, so check and
double-check everything, even if you are sure it is right.

Figure 10.25 Unconscious Rescue

REMEMBER the first part of emergency techniques:
Assess the DANGER, and then ACT (decide the response)

4. Using a maximum friction device (e.g. Whaletail, Rappel rack or Rescue 8) descend
down to a position above and to the side of the participant. Try to solicit a response, if
nothing reassess the situation the decent to the level of or just below the participant and
lock off.

5. Access the participant's condition, its First Aid again, Shake and Shout, do they
respond.
• Are they Breathing, is there a Pulse
• If there are no Life Signs, get then down NOW

Simply wrap your arms around them, hold on and have the brakeman lower you to
the ground. Don't waste any time, you only have 3 minutes to get them breathing
again. You can fix cuts and simple broken bones, but you can't restore life.

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Remember minimise additional injury, but preserve life. This is the goal now!

5b. Access the participant's condition, its First Aid again, Shake and Shout, do they
respond.
• Are they Breathing, is there a Pulse, (if yes to both questions)
• Tell the Brakeman to slowly release the tension on the participant's line.
• As the participant is lowered, step over them, one leg at a time till you are supporting
their weight taken up and just on your safety sling, then using a 1.5m sling (non load
bearing), attach the sling around the legs using a Lark's head knot (girth hitch) as close
to the knees as possible.
• Leave the free end of this sling unattached at this point.

6. Work your way in underneath them so that you have access to their descender (i.e. the
participant should almost be in your lap).
Attach a 500mm (22-inch) sling between your carabiner and the participant's carabiner (in
some cases, clip into your carabiner, pass the sling through the participants biner and click
into your again, dependant upon sling length). This will take the bulk of the participant's
weight in an emergency during the descent if a problem in braking occurs. This is the
participant's safety to you. An alternative to this, instead of your carabiner, attach to the
lower point of the Whaletail (etc), in the worse case the weight would be on your line, but
not via your harness. This is a suitable alternative but can take time to connect.

7. If necessary, now is the time to un-jam the descender.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO MOVE THE PARTICIPANT UNNECESSARILY.

• When their descender is clear, unlock your descender and ensure that your control
hand is on the head side of the casualty. Your other hand is used to control the swing
of the participant by moving the knee cord back and forth to avoid their contact with the
cliff face.
• Tell the Brakeman to slowly release the tension on the participant's line.
• As the participant descends, step over them, one leg at a time. Once you have
stepped over them you can connect another Carabiner from your descent loop around
their rope; this helps to hold them away from the wall.
• Once you are supporting some of their weight have the Brakeman release all tension
on the participants and your line together and walk them down the cliff face.

THIS IS FOR EXPERIENCED BRAKEMEN, AS THEY HAVE TO JUDGE BOTH LINE

SPEEDS FOR A SIMULTANEOUS DESCENT.
This is why brake control and experience is so important.

8. At about this stage, attach another 1.5m sling to a spare carabiner and pass this
around the participant's knees using a Girth Hitch. The 1.5m sling is used with your spare
hand to control the pivoting movement of the participant and therefore reduce the chance
of them spinning into the rock face and possibly causing further injury. The last thing to do
prior to lowering is to connect a spare carabiner between either your biner or the top of the
Whaletails to the participant's line. To do this once above the participant, kneel against
the face and from your gear click onto their line. This aids in holding them beneath you
and their body away from the face. You are now ready to descend.

9. Work with your Brakeman to bring the participant down at a controlled rate. Keep talking
and giving feedback to the Brakemen and talk to the participant. If you feel that you have
too much weight on you, have the Brake controlling the participant slow down. There is no
reason to carry both your own and the participants weight, the rope can do that without
getting tied.

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At NO point are you to remove the participant from their line before they reach the
bottom.

As you are descending the steps outlined in paragraph 2 should be carried out; the only
difference this time is that as they place the participant into the lateral recovery position
you will still have the sling attached. DO NOT attempt to release the slings before the
participant is grounded or to release them by yourself. Allow one of the others at the cliff
base to detach all slings and carabiners attaching you to the participant and their line, then
with the assistance of the Brakeman or others, carefully swing yourself or have yourself
pulled clear of the casualty.

A variant to this situation is the unlikely situation where you have had to cut away the
participants rope. The Safety Sling can take the weight all right but you as the Rescuing
Leader could be expected to hold all their weight. A better alternative is to us the safety
sling, but also a prussic (or similar) above your equipment. Let the ropes do the work not
you, by using the prussic the weight is on you line but not you, it will slow down the
descent but it is a lot easier to successfully accomplish.

NOTE:
The previous form of Unconscious Rescue entailed a format similar to above, however it
was the Leaders position to take the full weight of themselves and the injured party, then
control the entire descent. This is still an acceptable alternative, however on difficult or
time consuming descents the strain upon the Leader can become extreme. Similarly, it has
been proven in a number of training simulations that many Leaders, both male and female
have great difficulty in holding the weight of two bodies and controlling the descent. The
main method described lessens this strain and has replaced the original as the preferred
method for a full recovery.

As noted, the full recovery is the worse case scenario and in most cases an injured party
can be simply lowered by the Brakeman. Further, the need to undertake a full recovery in
a real Scout Abseiling activity has not as occurred and as such the method that would be
used will only involve aspects of the recovery.

10.12 The Use of Stretchers in Recoveries

10.12.1 Stretchers Introduction
The recovery of an injured participant from a cliff face can require the combination of a
variety of skills covered within the abseiling course. In the situation, where the level of
injury is unknown or when the need arises, a stretcher may be necessary. Where there is
any doubt, as to the extent of be injuries suffered a stretcher should be used.

As members of the Scout Association, your duty of care coupled with your first aid training
dictates a minimisation of any additional injury to a participant or team member. Together
with the requirement of maintaining safety for all on site the techniques required to
correctly and safely use stretchers must be understood.

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A Collapsible Stretcher known as a SKED

Litter, this compacts into a carry bag and
contains a collection of specific rescue
equipment.

Again, it must be stressed that the VBAC

and members of the Association are not
rescue personnel, neither are they part of
a rescue organisation. However, once the
skills are possessed and the equipment is
available the use of stretchers and other
equipment should be made available
where and when required.

Figure 10.26 SKED Litter

10.12.2 Principal of Stretcher Use

The following principles should be observed in all cliff based stretcher operations:
Any approach to an injured participant must always, where possible be made carefully to
one side so as to avoid causing further injury through dislodging part of the cliff or bumping
the injured person.

The use of stretchers in recoveries should be affected using either a lifting or lowering
system.

Abseil rescues of stretcher participants are not recommended, as the Leader undertaking
the recovery cannot see below them. However, this is a guide and not a rule as lowering
rescues are undertaken as in the unconscious recovery.

During stretcher recoveries, the Leader on line should escort the stretcher. This Leader
should be rigged on an ascent line with a rope or sling tether forming part of the stretcher
rope system.

All components of the recovery system must be rigged with due recognition of the various
loads to be placed on any rope, sling or cordage in the system.

10.12.3 Rigging and loading a stretcher

Regardless of the type of stretcher to be used in a recovery, the individual being recovered
must be loaded and secured within the stretcher so as to prevent the possibility of any
additional injury.

As has been pointed out earlier, the Scout Association and the VBAC are not rescue
organisations. The equipment available to trained rescue operations such as neck and
back braces are not available to us, neither are we suitability trained to correctly use them.

The use of a stretcher should always be in accordance with the manufacturer's

specifications. In that, where a flexible type of structure requires side bracing a suitable
brace is used.

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Figure 10.27 Flexible Litter laid out Figure 10.28 Corrected Loaded Flexible Litter

If a stretcher is used, and the participant can be safely placed within the unit then they
need to be secured usually by a series of seat belt like straps within the capsule. If an
abseiling Leader is presented with an injury that they cannot identify or if the risk of back
injury is suspected the participant should not be moved in excess of ascertaining the
injury. As in all First Aid situations, the minimisation of additional harm or injury is
paramount. In these circumstances a competent and professional rescue organisation
should be utilised.

In most circumstances that we as abseiling Leaders would consider the use of a stretcher,
would be the recovery of a participant with broken or fractured limbs or simply an
unconscious state. Again, the use of common sense coupled with the expertise of the first
bowler on site is required.

10.12.4 Rigging of a Stretcher

References made to stretcher rigs refer to the 'Stokes' type of frame stretcher.
The rigging of a stretcher needs to take into account the terrain and conditions. In some
situations the stretcher would be lowered but normally its use is in a top recovery. The
additional variant is the horizontal or vertical attitude of the stretcher during the recovery
process.

Wherever possible, the recommended method is a horizontal attitude with the stretcher
been supported by a four (4) point rig with attachments at each extremity of the unit.

Horizontal attitude
Rigging note:
Four (4) point rig or bridle. The rig described utilises two (2) long slings to attach to each
corner of the stretcher (or 4 cowtails). Each leg is of equal length with a figure 8 loop that
is attached via a carabiner to another figure 8 loop in the lowering or lifting line. (See
example below)

In the horizontal attitude, a control line may be fitted to the stretcher however even in the
best conditions control of a stretcher is questionable. The preferred method is for the
abseiling Leader to act as an escort for the stretcher walking it over any obstructions

And controlling its movement while suspended. The additional benefit here is that the
participant may be monitored during the recovery.

Steps of use:
• Attaching a lifting bridle or slings to the four extremities of the stretcher so that it will lie
in a horizontal position while suspended on line
• Locating the escorting Leader centrally beside the stretcher at waist level, allowing

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control, the Leader is attached on a separate line with an adjustable ascent rig or
ascending device which allows their movement around the stretcher; and
• Attaching and using independent belay lines for the stretcher and the Leader.

Figure 10.30 Stokes showing Lift

Figure 10.29 Stokes Rigid Stretcher
Frame

Vertical attitude
With the participant secure within the stretchers capsule, the recovery rope is connected to
the head of the stretcher by means of a two point lifting rig or a sling system from each
side to a carabiner lifting point. Alternatively a rope may be connected directly to the
stretchers head, however control is sacrificed in this situation.

10.12.5 Role of the Stretcher Escorting Leader

The role on the Leader in a stretcher escort is to monitor and reassure, where the
participant is conscious and to manoeuvre the stretcher over any obstacles on the cliff
face.

This role requires skill, strength and regular practice. It also requires that the Escorting
Leader be fully rigged with his or her own ascent system on a rope tether attached to the
rescue line or an alternative line with a short sling to the active line.

The Leaders ascent system provides the degree of mobility, which the Leader requires to
properly assist and support the participant throughout the activity.

In some circumstances due to the terrain two (2) Escorting Leaders may be required. A
rope tether attaches each Leader from the stretcher attachment point to accompany the
participant throughout the activity. They are positioned at each end of the stretcher
throughout the lift or lower.

10.12.6 UnEscorted Stretchers

The situation may arise when an Escorting Leader cannot accompany the stretcher. In
such cases the guideline referred to previously must be rigged and controlled from the
base. In all scouting abseil activities such a situation should not occur. The access on-site
of the base, top and cliff face is one of the parameters of acceptance for site use.

Stretcher Safety Note

Stretcher operations are very dangerous and should only be undertaken by experienced
and well-practised members. The need for on-going training and a safety management
plan for their use are paramount to avoid dangerous operations. If in any doubt at all, refer
to the trained Rescue organisations e.g. Police Search & Rescue, SES etc.

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