Peranakan cuisine

Peranakan cuisine or Nyonya cuisine comes from the

Peranakans, descendants of early Chinese migrants who
settled in Penang, Malacca, Singapore and Indonesia, inter-
marrying with local Malays. In Baba Malay, a female
Peranakan is known as a nonya (also spelled nyonya), and a
male Peranakan is known as a baba. The cuisine combines
Chinese, Malay, Javanese, South Indian, and other
influences.

Overview Chicken with keluak

Nyonya cooking is the result of blending Chinese

ingredients with various distinct spices and cooking techniques used by the Malay/Indonesian
community. This gives rise to Peranakan interpretations of Malay/Indonesian food that is similarly tangy,
aromatic, spicy and herbal. In other instances, the Peranakans have adopted Malay cuisine as part of their
taste palate,[1] such as assam fish and beef rendang. Key ingredients include coconut milk, galangal (a
subtle, mustard-scented rhizome similar to ginger), candlenuts as both a flavoring and thickening agent,
laksa leaf, pandan leaves (Pandanus amaryllifolius), belachan, tamarind juice, lemongrass, torch ginger
bud, jicama, fragrant kaffir lime leaf, and cincalok – a powerfully flavored, sour and salty shrimp-based
condiment that is typically mixed with lime juice, chillies and shallots and eaten with rice and other side
dishes.

There are regional variations in Nyonya cooking. Dishes from the island of Penang in the northern part of
Peninsular Malaysia possess Thai influences, such as more liberal use of tamarind and other sour
ingredients. Dishes from Singapore and Malacca show a greater Indonesian influence, such as the use of
coconut milk. A classic example is laksa (a spicy noodle soup), which comes in two variants: the sour
asam laksa from Penang and the coconut milk-based laksa lemak from Singapore and the southern
regions of Peninsular Malaysia.

The flavor of laksa and other Nonya recipes is determined by the rempah, which in Malay means spices.
The various combinations are pounded into a paste with a mortar and pestle, with a very specific texture
and density. It is said that a Nyonya can determine the culinary skill of a new daughter-in-law simply by
listening to her preparing rempah with a mortar.[2] Nonya recipes are handed down from one generation
to the next, and because of the time-consuming preparation of these dishes, it is a cuisine that is often at
its best when served at home. Laksa is a notable exception to this rule.

Examples of Nonya specialities include otak-otak, a popular blend of fish, coconut milk, chilli paste,
galangal, and herbs wrapped in a banana leaf;[3] ayam buah keluak, a distinctive dish combining chicken
pieces with nuts from the Pangium edule or kepayang tree to produce a rich sauce; and itek tim, a classic
soup containing duck, tomatoes, green peppers, salted vegetables, and preserved sour plums simmered
gently together.

Nonya desserts include colourful cakes (kue) and sweet, sticky delicacies.

List of Nyonya dishes

Achar, various pickled meats and vegetables like achar keat-lah (honey lime/calamansi),
achar hu (fried fish), achar kiam hu (salt fish), achar timun (cucumber), achar awat (mixed
vegetables).
Apam balik or terang bulan, a bread like puff with sugar, corn, and coarse nut in the
middle.
Asam laksa, a soup noodle dish consisting of a bowl of translucent al dente white rice
noodles served in a spicy soup made of fish (usually mackerel), tamarind (both asam jawa
and asam gelugor), and daun kesum. Toppings differ considerably, and may include onion,
mint, chopped torch ginger flower, and slices of pineapple and cucumber. A dollop of
pungent, viscous sweet fermented shrimp paste (petis udang or hae ko) is usually served on
the side. This dish is considered one of Penang's three signature dishes.
Ayam buah keluak, a chicken or pork rib stew cooked with the nuts from the kepayang tree
(Pangium edule), a mangrove tree that is native to Indonesia, but grown widely in both
Indonesia and Malaysia. For this recipe, the contents of the buah keluak is dug out and
sauteed with aromatics and seasonings, before it is stuffed back into the nuts and braised
with the chicken or pork rib pieces.
Ayam/babi pongteh, a stew of chicken or pork cooked with tauchu or salted fermented soy
beans, and gula melaka. It is usually saltish-sweet and can be substituted as a soup dish in
Peranakan cuisine. Pork is more commonly used as this is a Peranakan version of the
Chinese braised pork belly.
Babi assam, a pork stew cooked with tamarind juice. This dish is also popular within the
Kristang community.
Bak chang, Nyonya-style zongzi made in a similar manner as a typical southern Chinese
zongzi. However, the filling is typically minced pork with candied winter melon, ground
roasted peanuts, and a spice mix. The blue butterfly pea flower is used to colour the rice
with a shade of blue. Originally, Bak chang would be wrapped in dried bamboo leaves,
however, the peranakans in Bangka and Belitung islands in Indonesia have been known to
use pandan leaves instead, making their bak chang, known locally as nyuk cung, easily
recognised. While some other peranakan group in Kalimantan may also use banana leaves.
Bubur cha cha, a Betawi-origin dish made of pearled sago, sweet potatoes, yams,
bananas, coconut milk, pandan leaves, sugar and salt. Grated coconut, coconut cream and
water can be used as additional ingredients. The ingredients are cooked in coconut milk,
and the dish can be served hot or cold.
Cap cai or chap chye, stir-fried vegetables with Chinese Indonesian origin. The Nonya
version of this Chinese Indonesian classic incorporates tauchu and dried shrimp.
Chendol, an iced sweet dessert that contains droplets of green rice flour jelly, coconut milk
and palm sugar syrup, arguably came from Banjar region in the island of Java.
Cincalok, a distinctly Malay condiment made of fermented tiny shrimp (udang geragau), salt
and rice. It is also a favoured cooking ingredient used by the Kristang Eurasian community
of Malacca. There are varieties of cincalok can be found along both sides of Malacca strait
down to the southern part of Sumatra.
Cincaru, a small fish, deep fried and stuffed with sambal belacan or any other spice.
Enchi kebin, deep-fried chicken pieces marinated in a paste of coconut milk and rempah
(spices).
Itek tim or kiam chhai ak thng, a soup of duck, preserved mustard greens and cabbage
flavoured with nutmeg, Chinese mushrooms, tomatoes and peppercorns.
Jiu hu char, a dish made up mainly of shredded vegetables like turnip or jicama, carrot, and
cabbage and fried together with thinly shredded dried cuttlefish.
Kari kapitan, a Penang Nonya take on the ubiquitous chicken curry. Kaffir lime leaves and
coconut milk are among the key ingredients for this mild curry.
Kerabu bi hun, a salad dish consisting of rice vermicelli mixed with sambal belachan,
calamansi lime juice, and finely chopped herbs and spices. Other famous salad dishes are
kerabu bok ni (cloud ear fungus/tikus telinga), kerabu ke (chicken), kerabu ke-kha (chicken
feet), kerabu timun (cucumber), kerabu kobis (cabbage), kerabu kacang botol (four angled
bean), kerabu bak pue (pork skin).
Kiam chhai bue, a mixture of leftovers from Kiam Chhai Ak Thng, Jiu Hu Char, Tu Tɵ́ Thng
and various other dishes. "Bue" literally means "end".
Laksa lemak, a type of laksa served in a rich coconut gravy, served with prawns, cockles,
lime and a dollop of sambal belacan.
Lam mee, long yellow noodles cooked in a rich gravy made from a stock of prawns and
chicken. It is always served at birthdays to wish the birthday boy or girl a long life, and thus
it is also known as birthday noodles.
Lontong cap go meh, a Peranakan Chinese Indonesian take on the traditional Indonesian
dish.
Masak titik, a style of vegetable soup that makes liberal use of white peppercorns. One
version uses watermelon rind as the main ingredient. Another makes use of green or semi
ripe papaya.
Mee siam, dish of fried thin rice vermicelli with spicy gravy.
Nasi kunyit, a glutinous rice dish seasoned with turmeric powder, coconut milk and asam
gelugor. It is usually served with a chicken curry, ang ku kue, and pink-dyed hard-boiled
eggs as gifts in celebration of a child of friends and family turning one month old.
Ngo hiang, a fried meat roll made from spiced minced pork and chopped water chestnuts
rolled up in soya bean curd sheets, and deep fried. It is usually served with small bowl of lor
(a thick broth thickened with corn starch and beaten eggs) and chili sauce.
Otak-otak, is a dish involving fish pieces wrapped in banana leaves. Two very different
variations exist: one consists of a mixture of fish pieces and spice paste wrapped in banana
leaves and char grilled.
Pempek, is a dish involving deep fried fish balls. There are many varieties of fish balls,
kapal selam has an egg inside the fish ball. In Bangka and Belitung islands, the pem-pek is
eaten with three different variety of sambals and lime instead. Pempek Palembang is very
popular in Indonesia, the fish balls are eaten with a spicy dark sauce made of palm sugar
and vinegar known as cuko, topped with fresh cucumber and noodles.
Perut ikan, a spicy stew (similar to asam pedas in flavour profile) comprising mainly
vegetables/herbs and getting its distinctive taste mainly from fish bellies preserved in brine
and daun kaduk (the Wild Pepper leaf is from the Piper stylosum or the Piper
sarmentosum). A classic Penang Nonya dish.
Pai ti, is a thin and crispy pastry tart shell filled with a spicy, sweet mixture of thinly sliced
vegetables and prawns.
Popia, a fresh spring roll made of thin paper-like or crepe-like pastry skin of Indonesian-
style origin.
Rendang, a spicy meat stew originating from the Minangkabau cuisine in West Sumatra
and adopted by Peranakans throughout archipelago as part of their taste palate.
 Seh bak, a dish of pork loin, marinated overnight with herbs and spices, cooked over a slow
fire and simmered to tenderness.
Swikee is a Peranakan frog leg soup dish, popularly associated with the town of Jatiwangi
and Purwodadi in Java, Indonesia.
Tu tɵ́ thng, literally pig stomach soup, this dish requires a skilled cook to prepare and
deodorise the ingredients using salt before cooking. Its main ingredients are pig stomach
and white peppercorns.
Udang masak lemak nenas, sour and sweet shrimp dish with various spices.

Gallery

Kari kepala ikan Laksa Lontong cap go meh Sambal belacan

Cendol

See also
Food portal

Indonesia portal
Malaysia portal
Singapore portal

Betawi cuisine
Chinese Indonesian cuisine
Javanese cuisine
Malay cuisine
Minangkabau cuisine
References
1. Wong, Daniel (17 May 2022). "Peranakan Foods: Famous Dishes, Restaurants in
Singapore, & Recipes" (https://trulysingapore.com/peranakan-foods/). Truly Singapore.
Retrieved 22 July 2022.
2. Ng, Chien Y.; Ab. Karim, Shahrim (June 2016). "Historical and contemporary perspectives of
the Nyonya food culture in Malaysia" (https://doi.org/10.1016%2Fj.jef.2016.05.004). Journal
of Ethnic Foods. 3 (2): 93–106. doi:10.1016/j.jef.2016.05.004 (https://doi.org/10.1016%2Fj.je
f.2016.05.004).
3. Eveland, Jennifer (2007). Frommer's Singapore & Malaysia (https://archive.org/details/from
merssingapor00jenn_0/page/98). Frommer's. p. 98 (https://archive.org/details/frommerssing
apor00jenn_0/page/98). ISBN 978-0-470-10049-3.

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