Introduction to flat pattern
cutting
Flat Pattern Cutting – is a method working 2-dimensionally with basic shapes,
(basic blocks) that one derived through standard body measurements.
Translation of design ideas by manipulating of the blocks through tried and
tested methods, achieves the desired shape required for a design. Once the
basic principles have been mastered, your confidence will increase and you will
find the methods quick, and accurate results achieved.
Basic Blocks: The basic blocks used in pattern cutting are derived from standard
sizing which reflects the size and proportion for the average figure.
The measurements are produced by the British Standard Institute (B.S.I) which
produces tables of average sizing for the industry.
The blocks you will be using, basic information for a semi-fitted basic body shape.
• Blocks do not have seam allowances therefore are a net shape,
• Blocks include ‘tolerance’ allowances (ease).
• Blocks are never cut up or used directly on fabric, they are used for outlining
onto pattern paper ready to be styled, to form the basic draft. (Plan or
Working Pattern)
Fashion Blocks: Derived initially from basic blocks but conform to the current ‘look’
or trend. Clothing companies also have their own fashion blocks and whilst they
conform to B.S.I. tables they also relate to their own particular market (customer)
therefore, they select their measurements accordingly.
Basic Draft or Plan: Also called a master draft or working pattern. It is the first draft or
plan of a design. Basic blocks are drawn onto pattern paper. Lines are drawn on this
copy simply with design styling and details e.g. seamlines, style lines, wraps, collars,
fullness, yokes, button stands etc.
• Notches (balance marks) are placed on all seamlines to enable the sections to
be fitted back together during construction.
• Grain lines are marked on each section and run parallel to Centre Front (C.F.) or
Centre Back (C.B.) or centre of sleeves; this relates to fabric grain.
• N.B. This stage of pattern preparation is- never cut up but kept for reference and
alterations etc.
The patterns: After basic draft is completed:
• Carefully trace off each separate section (pattern piece) transferring all relevant
details, especially grain lines and notches.
• Seam and hem allowances can now be added to each pattern piece. Amount
required depends upon garment style, type of seam, position and fabric used-see
guidelines
• Where darts are included in a design or seams meet at a curve, you need to true
the shape – e.g. fold out to fitting line to achieve correct shape- unfold
• Add all relevant information on each pattern piece- grain line, notches, size of
pattern, name of pattern piece , number of pieces to cut , C.B or C.F lines, amount
of S.A used , R.S.U (right side up) , your own name.
• All written information should be clear and written From hem upwards.
• Patterns should be kept clean and kept together in an appropriate format to form
your own archive.
Introduction to basic bodice and dart manipulation
Darts: forms of suppression
Darts are used as a means to suppress the fabric to shape the curves and
hollows of the human figure, i.e. they enable the flat 2 dimensional shape to
become a 3 dimensional form. The dart is formed as a tapered fold.
Dart areas are referred to as suppression points.
Back Bodice Block- darts at shoulder to shape the top of the shoulder
blade and below the shoulder blade down the back midriff to the waistline.
Front Bodice Block- shoulder dart shapes the bust, waist dart shapes
from under the bust down the front midriff to the waistline.
Both darts on the front bodice are drafted to converge at their apex at the
bust point (B.P) , this allows the darts to be moved to different areas around
the front bodice whilst still maintaining the same basic fit as in their original
position. When these darts are sewn they are moved away from the B.P a
minimum of 2cms to allow for a natural rounded shape to be formed rather
than an unnatural point.
Darts on final patterns are positioned in their correct place away from the
B.P
Back Bodice Block- darts at shoulder to shape the top of the shoulder blade
and below the shoulder blade down the back midriff to the waistline.
Front Bodice Block- shoulder dart shapes the bust, waist dart shapes from
under the bust down the front midriff to the waistline.
Both darts on the front bodice are drafted to converge at their apex at the bust
point (B.P) , this allows the darts to be moved to different areas around the
front bodice whilst still maintaining the same basic fit as in their original
position. When these darts are sewn they are moved away from the B.P a
minimum of 2cms to allow for a natural rounded shape to be formed rather
than an unnatural point.
Darts on final patterns are positioned in their correct place away from the B.P
Darts: forms of suppression
Darts are used as a means to suppress the fabric to shape the curves and
hollows of the human figure, i.e. they enable the flat 2 dimensional shape to
become a 3 dimensional form. The dart is formed as a tapered fold.
Dart areas are referred to as suppression points.
Types of Darts
• Straight darts- give a semi fitted effect
• Curved Darts- shaped darts used as a particular design feature.
• Contour Darts- follow the curves of the body more closely – a more fitted effect.
• Multiple Darts – more than one dart used in conjunction with each other, or as a design feature.
• Dart Tucks – When darts are sewn in place but left to form a type of pleat rather than fully sewn.
• Dart seams- design feature, when a dart converges in another direction e.g. square shaped dart.
• Concave Dart- a double pointed dart, e.g. used in a dress to suppress waistline.
Alternative Forms of Suppression
• These originate from the original dart shapes or suppression points on the basic blocks, but take a different
treatment of application for effect yet still keep the same basic fit.
• Darts used as seams through original suppression points
• Darts used as seams away from original suppression points.
• Darts used as gathers.
• Darts used as draped designs.
• N.B. The deeper the dart shape the fuller the shape achieved. Narrower darts for slight shaping.
• Any dart may be moved if the design so requires. The technique used in the art of transferring darts is called dart
manipulation.
Moving bust dart into waist
Shoulder Dart into Bust
Moving shoulder dart to the neck
Transferring dart fullness
to neck & waist gathering
Style lines
Style lines with gathering
